The String Method Of Wheel Alignment

Really cheap and easy toe-in measurement

Old time solid axle vehicles may have all the handling charm of ... well ... trucks. But
they do have simple suspensions that can easily be checked and adjusted by any
shade tree mechanic. In this demonstration I'll be measuring the toe-in on my 1996
G300DT.

This method will also give you the toe-in of more complex suspension geometries. However to do any meaningful
alignment on these systems you need the other angle measurements too. To get these you will need more
sophisticated equipment.

Tools:

• A length of thin string sufficient to circle the vehicle.

• Four small standoffs (Lego 2x4 full height works really well)

• A fine pitch ruler, 0.5mm graduations work best

• A Flashlight

• Pencil & Paper

• Patience, this will take some fiddling the first time

0) Verify the soundness of mechanicals

Check that nothing is loose. Loose wheel bearings, ball joints and leading arm rubber
will make the measurements meaningless. Center the steering wheel as much as
you can.

1) Tie the string in a circle around all four tires

Starting at one tire, pull the string all the way around the four tires. Try to get the
string near the centerpoint of each tire as you go. Tie the ends together making sure
the string is good and taut. At the four corners of the vehicle insert the blocks. The
blocks help to ensure that the string only touches at these four spots. The blocks
should sit near the fattest part of the tire bulge.

2) Ensure the line really crosses the centerpoint of each wheel

The accuracy of this method is all in the setup. Make sure the line crosses exactly at
the center point. Mercedes has graciously provided a point in the exact center of the
wheel, use it. While you are at it, make sure the blocks are roughly in similar
positions on the four wheels.
3) Measure

Using the ruler, measure the distance from the string to the front and back edges of
each rim. The flashlight comes in handy here. You can create a sharp shadow of the
string on the ruler, making it easier to get an accurate reading.
4) Calculating the Results

Write your findings down as you go. A cartoon drawing of the car helps keep the
values in their correct places. It is really easy to transpose the numbers and
positions.

5) Interpretation

Subtract the back measurement from the front measurement on each side. Then add
the left and right sides. The end result is twice the toe-in at the front edge of the
rim. In the example above one can see that the wheels are turned slightly to he left
and that I've got 0.5mm of toe-in. That is within spec, however 0.0mm is ideal for
the G.

6) Fixing the alignment

First off, if the numbers come out wrong go back and measure again. You might also
want to insert a spreader to spread apart the front side of the front wheels. This
mimics the pushback effect caused by loose wheel bearings and the incorrect wheel
offset on the 18" G wheels.

Actually changing the toe-in is relatively simple. The catch is that the adjustment
bolts are often stubbornly corroded on. Big wrenches are required. I've found it
easiest to remove the track rod and hold it in a big well anchored bench vise. This
also gives you some more fighting room and lets you use a torch with less risk of
expensive damage.

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