Promica CNC MX3 Manual

MX3 CNC Kit Installation
X3/Super X3

Revision 1.8 July 2010
PROMiCA X3/Super X3 CNC Conversion Kit

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IMPORTANT INFORMATION

At PROMiCA we take great pride in our products and endeavour to supply our
customers with the very best in functionality and value.

Our products are tested during the design and prototype staging and of course
before shipping however we make no claims as to the suitability of our products
for any given purpose.

We do not accept any responsibility for lost time or production or for any damage,
injuries or death caused as a result of using this equipment or other equipment
connected to it.

The controller/electronics are operated at mains voltages and as such
there is potential for serious injury or death. DO NOT run the system or
have it plugged into the mains supply if you have removed the lid of the
controller exposing the internal connectors and fittings. We strongly
recommend using an RCD/Safety Switch.

Disconnect the controller from the mains power before checking or
replacing fuses.

All machinery is inherently dangerous and operators need to follow strict safety
precautions when near or using any of this equipment. People not suitably trained
should not be allowed to operate or be near the working machine. Young children
and pets must be kept clear at all times. Operators must be wearing appropriate
clothing, safety glasses, ear protection and if necessary hair nets. Long hair and
clothing such as ties can easily become entangled in the machine and cause
serious injury or death.

Please ensure that the controller is installed in a safe dry location and is well out
of the way of chips or offcuts being thrown from any machinery.

Please ensure that all equipment is switched off prior to making any manual
adjustment, installing tooling or performing any operation that involves touching
or being in close proximity to the system. Appropriate guards must be in place as
specified or required by your local authorities.

Please do not enable the controller without a PC connected, booted and the
software running. Different models of computers and operating systems can set
your parallel port to an unknown state. This can be very dangerous.

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FOREWORD................................................................................................................................ 4
Parts Finish .................................................................................................................................... 4
What you need to complete the installation ....................................................................................... 5
A note on the finish of the X3 .......................................................................................................... 5
Software........................................................................................................................................ 5
What is in the kit ............................................................................................................................ 6
PREPARING THE MILL ............................................................................................................. 7
Overview ....................................................................................................................................... 7
Preparation Guide ........................................................................................................................... 8
INSTALLING THE KIT ............................................................................................................. 10
Installation Options ....................................................................................................................... 10
Home Sensors ................................................................................................................................................. 10
Z Axis Home Sensor ......................................................................................................................................... 10
X Axis Home Sensor ......................................................................................................................................... 11
Y Axis Home Sensor ......................................................................................................................................... 11
Z Motor Mount ................................................................................................................................................ 12
Loom Tubes.................................................................................................................................................... 12
Cleaning Kit Parts ............................................................................................................................................ 12
Thread Lock.................................................................................................................................................... 13
Assembly ..................................................................................................................................... 14
Z Axis ............................................................................................................................................................ 14
Z Dual Ball Nuts .............................................................................................................................................. 16
X Axis ............................................................................................................................................................ 21
X Dual Ball Nuts .............................................................................................................................................. 23
Y Axis ............................................................................................................................................................ 29
Y Dual Ball Nuts .............................................................................................................................................. 30
Wiring Looms .................................................................................................................................................. 35
HDPE Axis Covers ............................................................................................................................................ 37
CARE AND MAINTENANCE ..................................................................................................... 38
Cleaning ...................................................................................................................................... 38
Re-assembling ball nuts................................................................................................................. 38
Cleaning the Controller .................................................................................................................. 39
Check The Wiring ......................................................................................................................... 39
A FINAL MESSAGE .............................................................................................................. 39


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FOREWORD

Thank you for purchasing your CNC conversion kit from PROMiCA.

We feel sure that you will be very happy with the conversion and ask that you read this
documentation fully to understand the procedures required for installation. The installation and
setup is very easy and for most customers this should be completed comfortably over a couple
of evenings or within several hours.

We are continually looking at ways of improving our designs and/or processes and as such you
may find slight discrepancies between this manual and the actual hardware you have received.
There may be slight variations in such things as cap screw sizes, formwork design, microcode in
the controller etc. If you do happen to find a difference or something which is not perhaps as
clear as you would like please let us know so that we can improve the documentation for future
revisions.

We stand behind our products and encourage feedback from our customers. Please let us know
of any issues you may find for example errors in documentation, incorrectly produced or
finished parts, glitches in controller code etc.

As the old saying goes

if youre unhappy please tell us if youre happy please tell others

Parts Finish
All parts contained in our kits are hand finished.

Aluminium plates and brackets that are visible on the assembled system are lightly sandblasted
with glass powder to produce a satin like finish and generally tidy them up. At times we may
also sandblast internal parts too usually however they are left raw.

PLEASE WASH all aluminium and HDPE parts with water and dry thoroughly before beginning
assembly as there may be sand media present in holes etc. Clean leadscrews with kerosene or
similar to remove any swarf/grindings which may have stuck to the oily coating during
machining.

If you would like to polish or otherwise further clean up various parts please feel free to do so
however take note that machined surfaces which mate with other machined surfaces should be
left untouched as you may inadvertently cause misalignment. A good example is the mating
surface between the X left plate and the X thrust bearing holder - the mating surfaces are
machined so that the bearings and leadscrew will run square. Altering these surfaces may cause
your leadscrew to run out or wobble.

The kit contains High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) covers for both the X and Y pullies & belts.
HDPE responds well to machining however it can be difficult to achieve a mark free finish and
marks can be difficult to fully remove given the nature of what this kit is we feel that
customers would prefer the benefits of the HDPE covers such as better sealing, reduced
vibration, reduced noise, cleaner look etc. Our manufacturing process makes use of the full

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depth of the HDPE block and as such the external exposed face may have small marks and
scratches on it which have been caused during the manufacture of the HPDE, transporting,
cutting and so on. Please also note that the HDPE covers are machined accurately however
some flexing or warping may occur due to temperature variations they will flex back to
correctly fit the panels they mount on if you have difficulty in fitting the covers you can easily
taper the leading edge of the plate to assist in locating the cover.

You may also notice markings on or around screw holes or mounting points or notice holes
which appear to have been tapped but stripped. During the manufacture of components we fix
the stock to jigs using existing threaded holes where possible but depending on the part there
may not be a suitable mount point so we use an undersized thread to mount the part for
machining and then drill the hole out to size once finished. This can leave the hole looking like a
stripped thread. We also test the fitting of parts wherever possible to ensure that they line up
correctly and this will most often leave markings on the part we do not worry about cleaning
these up as they will simply reappear again as soon as you fit the parts together they are
covered by the screw heads when assembled.

It is also worth noting that not all holes (threaded or not) are utilised when assembling your kit
there are some parts which have additional holes in them that we use when machining the
part.

What you need to complete the installation
The kit can be installed and operational without any modifications to the original X3 design.

You will require a metric Allen Key set and a shifter, possibly a small hammer to gently tap
some of the existing X3 parts loose, and various sizes of blade and phillips screwdrivers.

A note on the finish of the X3
We manufacture our parts to a high level of accuracy however we have found it necessary to
purposefully decrease tolerances in some situations to allow for variations in the finish quality of
the X3 itself. A prime example is with the left and right end plates we supply for the table we
have found that the actual positions of the 6mm cap screws can vary by up to 2mm and as
such rather than make our panels with a tight fitting 6mm hole we make them with looser
6.5mm holes. You may find on your X3 that you need to increase these holes even more or
slightly elongate them in order to fit the hole pattern on your table the same applies across
the entire X3 we can make the part very accurately however the finish of the X3 out of the
Sieg factory can be a little inaccurate. If you find that something is massively out of alignment
please let us know and we will work with you to customize a part to suit (depending on the
level of customization we may or may not need to charge for this).
Software
Your kit includes demo copies of Mach3 software and a shareware versions of TurboCNC 3 & 4.
Please note that it will necessary for you to purchase a license for either if you intend to
continue using it (purchase via the Mach3/DakEng web sites). The demo version of Mach3 is
fully operational however it will only allow 1000 lines of code in gcode files. TurboCNC is
completely unlocked and relies on the honesty of people to register it.

Note that PROMiCA do not support either software package directly but will answer any
questions you may have wherever possible. Support for Mach3 is available directly from Artsoft

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http://www.machsupport.com . TurboCNCs website is located at http://www.dakeng.com .
There are also numerous other websites and forums that are loaded with information and
frequented by many people who are only too willing to assist.

This manual lists the required specifications and you will need to refer to them when
configuring either Mach3 or TurboCNC. We have included sample configuration files on the CD
you can use these as a starting point and tune to your requirements from there.
What is in the kit
Please use the supplied checklists to ensure that you have received all of the appropriate parts
for the level of kit you have ordered the checklist is packed with the kit. Our standard
checklists do not cover any additional or optional parts which you may have orderedplease
check these against your original sales order and/or quotation from PROMiCA.

If you find that any parts are missing or if you are not sure please advise us immediately.

As a rough guide though you should have the following in a standard 3 axis HMC kit:

X, Y & Z leadscrews
3 x ball nuts
3 x angular thrust bearing (7000)
3 x thrust bearing (51200)
1 x standard bearing (6000)
1 x standard bearing (16100)
3 x 270 oz/inch stepper motors with cables
6 loom tubes (0.5mtr 0.75mtr 1mtr)
3 x home sensors with cable
Aluminium plates and brackets
3, 4, 5 & 6mm cap screws (various lengths)
2 x rubber grommets
1 x X HDPE axis cover
1 x Y HDPE axis cover
1 x IC3A Controller
3 x AB403-2M axis cards
1 x power lead
3 x large 4 way quick connect terminal block
3 x small 3 way quick connect terminal block
1 x 90XL timing belt
3 x 10 tooth pullies with grub screws
3 x 20 tooth pullies with grub screws


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PREPARING THE MILL
Overview
The PROMiCA hardware kit is designed to replace the original X, Y & Z apex leadscrews, brass
nuts and handles with recirculating ball nuts, rolled leadscrews and stepper motors.

Preparing your X3 to take the kit is quite simple most people will be able to do this without
problems however if you are unsure then you can refer to our diagram below and the
associated guide this is not meant to be a comprehensive step by step instruction set but
more an overview of which parts to remove and set aside. It also serves as a rough guide to
the order in which to do this although you may feel it easier to rearrange the order.

Before removing any part of the Mill please ensure that you have disconnected the
machine from the mains power supply and that you place a wooden block (or
similar) between the head and the base to ensure that the head will not drop
suddenly when the Z leadscrew is removed.

Even if you are already familiar with this type of machine should still study the diagram and
preparation guide to identify the parts to be removed before proceeding.


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Preparation Guide
Please ensure that the machine is disconnected from the mains power and that the head is
suitably supported/braced.

Begin by removing the cap screws which hold the Y axis brass nut in place [A]. These are
located beneath the base and can be accessed from the bottom of the machine.

Remove or back-off the grub screws and axis lock located along the XY Slide gib [B] and
carefully remove the XY Slide and Table assembly as a complete unit. Make sure to take note of
the orientation of the gib so that you can reinstall it again later. You may be able to pull the gib
out now or you may need to leave it until the assembly is removed from the base. Put the gib
aside in a safe place where it wont be damaged or broken (they can be brittle).
Ensure that you have a very good grip on the assembly as you pull it towards you and off the
base.

Warning many of the components you will remove are very heavy and as such can be
challenging to handle/manipulate. Please ensure that you use correct lifting and handling
methods to avoid injury to yourself/others and/or damage to the parts.

Place the assembly on a level surface such as a workbench. If possible cover the workbench
with an old towel or rags first and set the assembly with the Table face down and the Y handle
in a position where you can easily access the handle mount plate.

NOTE If you find that the XY Slide and Table assembly cannot be removed
then it is probable that the Y axis Brass Nut also has locating pins. If you
believe this to be the case then you will need to remove the Y Handle lock
nuts and take the handle off. Then undo the cap screws at location [C] and
remove the Y Handle mounting assembly this may require a gently tap with
a hammer and wooden protector it is sometimes possible to lever it off with
a good sized screwdriver inserted between the mounting assembly and XY
Slide. This should then allow you to wriggle the Brass Nut off the locating pins
and withdraw the Leadscrew and Brass Nut together. The XY Slide and Table
assembly will now slide off the base

If not already done in the above step then undo the cap screws at point [C] and remove the Y
Handle, Leadscrew and Brass Nut as a complete unit set these aside you wont need them
any more!!

Remove the cap screws at point [D] which hold the X axis Brass Nut in place.

Remove or loosen the grub screws and axis lock lever along the Table gib point [E] and slide
the XY Slide off the Table.

NOTE - The X axis Brass Nut may also have locating pins (if the Y did then the
X will for sure). If this is the case then you will need to remove the Handle and
end plate in the same manner as you did previously for the Y Axis this will
then allow the Leadscrew and Brass Nut to come away.

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Remove the cap screws at each end of the Table [F] and take off each end plate and the X
Handle assembly.

If your machine has locating pins at points [G] (X & Y Brass Nut mounts) then these will need
to be removed. Often they will come out with a gentle tap (tap in) but if not you will need to
cut them off level with the surface they are protruding from (taking care not to damage the
surface itself!).

Remove the four cap screws from points [H] and carefully remove the rear case to enable
access to the Z Leadscrew. If you require more space then you will need to disconnect the
motor wiring and earth leads ensure that you mark each wire so that you can return them to
their original location when reassembling the mill. Depending on the height you have the head
sitting at it may suffice to remove only the earth wires from the lower part of the column and
then swing the cover towards the motor. All you need to do is gain enough access to remove
the leadscrew and handle shaft/crown gear.

Undo the cap screws locking the Z Nut Mount to the Head Side Plates [I]

BE CAREFUL AS WHEN YOU DO THIS THE HEAD MAY NO LONGER
BE SUPPORTED BY THE LEADSCREW AND WILL DROP IF YOU
DONT HAVE A BLOCK OR LOCKING MECHANISM IN PLACE.

Loosen the cap screws that hold the Head Side Plates to the Head itself. If there are no locating
pins on your machine the Head will be free of the axis leadscrew if there are locating pins
then you will need to completely remove the cap screws in order to take off the Head Side
Plates.

Undo the large cap screws at points [J] & [K] the Leadscrew, upper mount, lower mount and
Z Nut Mount will now come away from the column.

Remove the cap screws at point [L] and remove the Z Brass Nut from the Z Nut Mount.

Gently tap the upper mount and bearing off the Leadscrew and remove the Z Nut Mount you
will need this to mount the ZA Ball Nut Holder supplied in the kit.

Remove the locking nut at point [M] and pull the crown gear off the shaft.

Remove the cap screws from around the Z Handle assembly - point [N] then withdraw the Z
Handle and Shaft from the base. The rear end of the shaft is normally supported by a bronze
bush so there may be some resistance as you pull the shaft out.

If you have not done so already then now would be a good time to give the Mill a clean to
remove the dreaded red grease that the X3s are caked in when they ship out from China:

. just clean it off anywhere you can find it!!!!

You are now ready to install the PROMiCA kit hardware.

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INSTALLING THE KIT
Installation Options
The installation of the PROMiCA kit is fairly straight forward however there are some decisions
you need to make prior to beginning. Also please be aware that this documentation covers all
kit levels (H, HM & HMC) and therefore may describe parts/procedures not related to your kit.
Home Sensors
If your kit contains Home Sensors you should note that the system will run perfectly well
without them installed - but most customers prefer to fit them and we feel it is wise to do this
even if you dont plan on using themyou never know when they may be required!

We test all sensors as we assemble them so you will need to remove the small 3 way terminal
block off the cable to facilitate assembly as the cable needs to be fed through various parts as
you put the kit together. There are diagrams towards the end of this manual that clearly show
how to put the terminal block back onto the cable (same applies for the stepper motor cables).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Home sensors must be aligned with their activation flag. The flag is a
1mm wide tab on each of the three ball nut holders. BEFORE powering up the mill it is
imperative that you ensure that the flags do not hit their respective sensors. Both the X & Y
sensor mounts are slotted to allow for sideways adjustment. The Z sensor is mounted on a thin
aluminium plate which can be easily bent or twisted to ensure correct alignment.

Z Axis Home Sensor
The Z Homing Sensor is very simple to install and there is no modification required for the
cabling unless you choose not to install the supplied loom exit plates in which case you will
need to use an alternative solution such as a small hole and grommet through the rear case (not
provided).

A plate is provided in the kit for fitting the Z Home Sensor this plate mounts onto the existing
Upper Z Mount and the sensor is held in place by the 3mm screws provided.

We recommend that the cable running from the sensor is glued down the inside of the column
one of the many 5 minute epoxy type glues should be suitable for this purpose.

Z axis Home Sensor carefully check alignment with the flag once the Z axis is assembled.


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X Axis Home Sensor
The X axis Home Sensor fixes onto the rear of the left hand X plate using two 4mm x 16mm
cap screws and can be moved left/right for alignment. The cable runs from behind the sensor
through the X Left Plate and X Thrust Block. It then follows the channel on the back of the X
Motor Mount and passes through it to the loom tube.

X Sensor Fitted to rear of X Left Plate. Cable passes through the Left Plate and X Thrust Block.

Cable runs through channel on rear of X Motor Plate and to the loom tube.
Y Axis Home Sensor
The Y Axis Home Sensor fits onto the Y Front Plate and is held in place by two 4mm x 16mm
cap screws. The sensor can be adjusted left/right to ensure alignment with the flag on the nut
holder. Its cable passes through the Y Face Plate and Y Thrust Plate then follows a channel in
the Y Motor Mount which it then passes through and into the loom tube.

Sensor mounted inside Y Face Plate ... sensor cable passes through the Y Thrust Block.

Sensor cable channel on rear of Y Motor Mount.


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Z Motor Mount
In the kit we provide an aluminium replacement for the Lower Z Mount but if youd prefer you
can fit the motor mount plate directly to the existing steel mount. Using the Z Stepper Mount
plate as a template mark out the positions of the two rear mounting holes on the bottom side
of the steel Lower Mount ensure that you have it the correct way around!

We recommend using two 6mm or cap screws for this. If you do choose to use this
mounting method you will probably need to revise the spacer used between the lower angular
bearing and the pulley check this once you have the Motor Mounting plate fitted.

If utilising the existing steel Lower Z Mount you may also find that the angular bearing we
supplied is either too loose or wont fit at all. If it wont fit then it is preferable to use a lathe to
turn out the recess to a snug fit. If it is excessively loose you should shim the bearing
Aluminium cans are brilliant as shims easy to obtain and easy to cut (caution they are very sharp!!).

Loom Tubes
If you purchased a HM or HMC kit then you will receive stepper motors, wiring and loom tubes.

To facilitate a simple and clean installation we provide 3 loom tube mounting plates a 4 way
for the lower rear of the column cover, a large round single way plate for the Y axis loom (fits
in the position where the Z Handle assembly mounted) and a small single way plate which is to
allow the loom coming from the X stepper to enter the column case.

4 Way Loom Tube Plate fitted to the lower rear of the column and the Y axis loom tube running into its plate fitted over the spot
where the Z Handle assembly came out of. The X loom plate is similar to the Y plate shown above but smaller.

If you do not wish to make the appropriate cut-outs in the column cover you can still route the
looms neatly around to the rear of the unit we do however recommend that you utilise the
supplied plates as the resulting finish will be very neat and will also help to protect the wiring.
Cleaning Kit Parts
We strongly recommend that you thoroughly clean all parts prior to beginning the installation.

Even though the bearings weve supplied are new it is possible that they have picked up dirt or
other contaminants before they get to you. Similarly the leadscrews should be cleaned to
ensure no dust or swarf remains on the thread.
We do not recommend cleaning the Ball Nuts as they should be ready to use.

NOTE DO NOT remove the cardboard tube that is held in place through the Ball Nut as it is
there to keep the ball bearings from falling out. We later describe in detail the correct method
for getting the Ball Nuts off the cardboard and onto the leadscrews.

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All aluminium plates and brackets should be cleaned during assembly especially where two
machined surfaces meet as any dust or grit between the surfaces will cause a misalignment.

Thread Lock
We recommend that you use a thread lock such as Loctite during the assembly process. Loctite
is one of the many anaerobic thread locking liquids on the market any similar product that
helps to secure threads will suffice. The blue series is a medium hold threadlock and red is
usually a super-lock. It is best to use the blue Loctite as many of the screws will need to be
removed during your regular maintenance and/or adjustments.


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Assembly
Assembly is relatively straight forward however we do strongly recommend that you read the
entire installation section prior to commencing. Sections of text written in blue relate only to
systems with dual ball nuts if you system is single ball nut then you can skip these sections.

Z Axis
Begin by preparing the Z axis assembly. Use the following diagram to identify the components
and their orientation.

Z Axis exploded view.

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Using a M3x10mm cap screw attach the Z Home Sensor to the Z Home Sensor Mount Plate.
First feed the sensor cable through the larger hole and pull through until the sensor meets the
plate. Align as per the photo below. Do not over tighten the screw as the HDPE block will easily
strip. Sit the sensor and mount plate to the side while you finish assembling the Z axis.

Sensor fitted to the Z Sensor Mount Plate

Cut and remove the retaining strap from a ball nut ensuring that the cardboard tube does
not come out. If the tube does come out ensure that all ball bearings are retrieved then refer
to the Care and Maintenance section regarding re-assembly of the ball nut.

Cut the retaining strap taking care not to allow the tube to come out.

With the threaded end of the ball nut facing the Z leadscrew carefully slip the cardboard tube
over the long turned leadscrew end (pulley end). See photo below.

Cardboard tube in place ready to wind the ball nut onto the leadscrew.

Slide the ball nut towards the leadscrew and once it makes contact begin turning the ball nut to

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thread it on. Wind the ball nut a sufficient distance so as to ensure that no ball bearings can
come out.

Note if you need to remove a ball nut use the same procedure in reverse.

NOTE: Ball nuts are very efficient and turn on the leadscrew easily. If the leadscrew is held
near vertically the ball nut will run down the leadscrew under its own weight. Do not allow the
ball nut to come off the leadscrew as the ball bearings will come out.

From the upper end of the leadscrew (short end) slide the ZA Nut Holder down to the ball nut
making sure you do not damage the thread inside the holder. Make sure that with the grub
screw facing towards you the tab on the holder is closest to you and to the left see photos
below for correct orientation.

Install ball nut from the LONG turned end of the leadscrew with the ball nuts external thread
pointing towards the far end.

Screw the ball nut into the holder as far as it will go then back it off until the ball return tube
face is square with the nut holder face (see photo above). Tighten the holder grub screw to
lock the ball nut in place - do not over tighten the grub screw as it will damage the thread on
the ball nut making it very difficult to remove later for cleaning/maintenance.

Note -if your system is single ball nut you do not need to square up the ball nut and holder.
Dual ball nut systems however DO require the nut to be aligned with the holder correctly
otherwise the anti-rotation bar will not fit.

If you have purchased a single ball nut system you can skip the text below written in blue.

Z Dual Ball Nuts
With the first ball nut and ZA Nut holder wound on approximately 20cm slide the ZB ball nut
holder over the leadscrew from the same (long) end of the Z leadscrew ensuring that the ball
nut locking grub screw and flag align with the same items on the ZA holder. Refer to the photo
below for ZA & ZB identification and orientation.


17

Using the procedure outlined previously place another ball nut onto the leadscrew. Once on far
enough remove the cardboard tube and screw the ZB Nut Holder onto the ball nut until it stops.
Now back it off until the ball return tube is aligned with the grub screw. Tighten the ZB ball nut
locking grub screw.

Before bringing the ZB assembly up to the ZA assembly insert four M5 x 30mm cap screws
through the four corner holes of the ZA holder from the ball nut side (refer to Z Axis exploded
view earlier in this chapter). Watch that these dont fall out as you proceed as they are
impossible to insert once the ZB Nut Holder and ball nut are in place.

Rotate the ZB holder and ball nut assembly along the leadscrew until the ZB Nut Holder touches
the rear of the first ball nut then back off until the ZA & ZB Nut Holder flags align.

Push the 10mm anti-rotation bar through the hole in the ZB holder and into the ZA holder
stopping 1mm BELOW the far surface of ZA. Once positioned correctly tighten the grub screw in
ZB to lock the anti-rotation bar in place. The assembly should now look the same as the photo
above.

From the bottom face of the ZB Nut Holder insert three M5 x 55 button head screws until they
protrude 10mm into the gap between ZB & ZA. Place a M5 dome nut onto each then use a
spanner and allen key to tighten them so that they cant come loose (dont have to be super
tight!).


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Slide a thrust bearing (51200) over the shaft at the pulley end of the leadscrew ensuring that
the washer with the smaller inner hole goes on first (ie against the end of the leadscrew thread)
and that the channel races are facing each other with the bearing carrier in between.

Thrust bearing assembly

Locate the Lower Mount Block and slide it over the shaft ensuring that the 28mm bearing
recess cups the thrust bearing. This is a clearance fit with approximately 1mm gap between the
bearing and the sides of the recess to allow the leadscrew to align correctly with the Angular
Thrust bearing (next step)

Fit an angular thrust bearing over the shaft and slide it into the recess of the Lower Mount
Block. It is important to note that the angular thrust bearing is directional and that the face
with the smaller opening is closest to the thrust bearing (see photo below).

Place 3 x 10mm washers over the shaft then slide on a 20 tooth pulley. Install a 6mm x 9mm
grub screw into the pulley and tighten until it meets the flat on the shaft then back it off very
slightly this will then assist in keeping the pulley aligned over the flat. Place a spring washer
then plain washer onto a 6x16mm cap screw and screw into the tapped hole on the end of the
leadscrew. Tighten the cap screw until the spring washer is just compressed do not over
tighten as this is setting the preload on the bearings. Now fully tighten the grub screw to lock
the pulley in place.

Locate the Z Motor Mount Plate and fix it to the Lower Mount Block using two 6x16mm cap
screws with a spring washer under each. Ensure that the side of the Motor Mount Plate with the
stepper motor recess is facing upwards towards the leadscrew thread.


19

Z Stepper Mount Plate fitted to the Lower Mount block

Place a 10 tooth pulley onto a stepper motor shaft with the grub screw aligned over the flat.
Push the pulley on until there is approximately a 3mm gap between the pulley and the motor
face. Tighten the grub screw.

NOTE: Do not tap the pulley onto the shaft with a hammer or similar as doing so can
permanently damage the stepper motor.

Lightly fix the stepper motor in place using four 5x20mm cap screws with spring washers and
nuts on the underside. Do not tighten these as yet. Note that if one of the supplied stepper
motors has an aluminium cover and side entry grommet on it then this is the Z motor.

Place the 90XL belt around the larger pulley then partially loop and hold the other end of the
belt on the smaller pulley while turning the leadscrew - this will assist the belt to slide onto the
smaller pulley with minimal fuss.

Pull back on the stepper motor to tension the belt and tighten the four motor mount cap
screws. The belt needs to be firm but not too tight. You may find it easier to use a small pry
bar or block between the motor and the Mount Block to tension the belt while you tighten the
cap screws.

Position the Z Nut Mount over the leadscrew ensuring it is the correct way around. Fix the ZA
Nut Holder to the bottom of the original Z Nut Mount using four 5mm x 30mm cap screws
provided with the kit.

On dual ball nut systems you can now screw the M5 x 55mm button head screws all the way in
until the dome nuts seat into the heads of the M5 cap screws which now fix the ZA holder to
the bottom of the Z Nut Mount. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM as doing so will cause
excessive wear on the leadscrew and will sap power from the stepper motor. Once the dome
nuts contact the M5 cap screw heads only tighten them a further turn this will be a good
preliminary setting and you can adjust from there once the system is running. Note that it is
virtually impossible to completely eliminate backlash but dual ball nuts will go a long way to
minimising it!

Place the standard bearing (16100) into the cavity on the lower side of the Upper Mount Block
(ie from the bottom) and insert the upper end of the leadscrew into the bearing centre.


20
Holding the complete Z Axis assembly together position it in the rear of the machine column
and fix the Lower Mount Block using the 8mm x 35mm cap screws provided with the kit. Fix the
Upper Mount Block using the original cap screws that held it in place.

Please note that the leadscrew is slightly undersized and as such you may
find that the upper lip of the leadscrew does not hold the bearing inside the
Upper Mount Block. There are variations in every X3 made which means that
the leadscrew is purposefully turned down short as long as the upper end
of the leadscrew enters the bearing and the bearing is held inside the Upper
Mount Block then all is good. This is only a supporting bearing used to steady
the leadscrew top end it carries no weight or load. If the gap is too large
and the bearing is able to drop out of the Upper Mount Block then use 10mm
washers to pack between the bearing and top lip of the leadscrew. We have
provided additional 10mm washers in the kit for this reason.

Fix the Sensor Mount Plate to the Upper Mount Block using two 4mm x 16mm cap screws as
shown below. As there is only 1mm clearance for the flag (on the ZA Nut Holder) to fit into the
sensor please ensure that you check alignment prior to powering up the system if the flag hits
the sensor it will break. Adjustments can be made by simply bending the mount plate to suit.

It is imperative that you ensure there is sufficient clearance for the ZA Nut Holder flag to run
between the sensor posts. Failing to correctly align the sensor and tab will damage either or
both items.

ZA & ZB Nut Holders in place viewed from below with the assembly installed on the X3.

21
X Axis

Refer to the following diagram as you assemble the X Axis.

Exploded view of the X axis

22
Using the method outlined previously fit a ball nut to the X axis leadscrew installing from the
long turned end and orientated it so that the external thread on the ball nut is facing towards
the long end. Position the ball nut approximately 30mm along the leadscrew.

Ball nut A installed on the X axis.

Locate the XA Nut Holder and screw it onto the ball nut ensuring that the flat side faces the ball
nut body. Tighten it as far as it will go then back it off until the ball return tube faces upwards
towards the locking grub screw. Tighten the locking grub screw.

XA Nut Holder fitted to the ball nut with the return tube facing
the locking grub screw. Note that the flat side of the holder faces
the nut and the recessed side faces the long end of the leadscrew.

If you find that the ball return tube touches or scrapes the bottom of the table once installation
is completed you may instead position it to face the rear of the machine (ie the column). Facing
it towards the front will block access to the backlash adjustment screws on a dual ball nut
system (makes no difference on a single nut system).

Alternative positioning with the ball return tube facing towards the machine column.


23
X Dual Ball Nuts
Wind the XA nut assembly further down the leadscrew leaving roughly 50mm clear space
between it and the long end of the leadscrew. Place another ball nut onto the leadscrew facing
the same direction (ie external thread towards the long turned end of the leadscrew). Screw the
XB Nut Holder onto the second ball nut with the flat face towards the ball nut body. Tighten as
far as it will go and then back off until the ball return tube faces the locking grub screw and
lock it in place. As per the XA assembly you can also face the ball return tube rearwards if you
need additional clearance.

Now wind the XB assembly down the leadscrew until the back face of the nut touches the XA
Nut Holder it will partially go into the XA holder thanks to the recess machined in it. Now wind
it back until the ball return tubes of both ball nuts are facing the same way (ie up).

Install three M5 x 55mm button head screws into the XB Nut Holder and wind them in fully
ensuring that they each enter their appropriate recess hole in the XA holder tighten each. If
you like you can use some blue Loctite on the head end of the screws (dont use red as you
may need to remove them sometimes for cleaning).

DO NOT PUT ANY THREADLOCK ON THE END THAT ENTERS THE XA NUT HOLDER AS
DOING SO WOULD STOP THE BACKLASH ADJUSTMENT FROM WORKING.

Install three M5 x 55mm button head screws carefully ensuring that they enter the recesses in XA. Make sure they are
tightened and if desired use some blue Loctite only on the HEAD end (ie XB holder end).

Move both XA & XB assemblies down to the far end of the leadscrew DO NOT allow the
leadscrew end to enter the ball nut otherwise the small balls will fall out!

Place an M6 x 10mm grub screw into each of the three holes on the flat face of the XA holder
(the holes that the button head screws have entered from the other side). Wind the grub
screws in until they lightly touch the button head screws then go turn more to set a backlash
preload. The leadscrew should be able to rotate without binding if it binds then back off each
grub screw very slightly... if it can spin freely then the adjustment grub screws are too loose
and you need to tighten ALL 3 by a further 1/8 turn. Make sure that the tension on each
adjusting grub screw is roughly the same so as to keep XA & XB parallel to each other.
If you find that the M6 x 10mm grub screws are not long enough you can either purchase some
15mm ones from your local supplier or use M6 x 25 cap screws instead.


24
Insert an allen key right through one of the holes in the top of the XB holder and place an M6 x
10mm grub screw on it. Using your finger feed the grub screw up to the bottom of the
threaded hole and carefully screw it into the holder. Do the same for the second grub screw.
Make sure that both grub screws are NOT protruding past the bottom of the XB holder.

Fit the X Flag to the XA Nut Holder using an M4 x 25mm cap screw ensuring that the recessed
section of the flag body faces upwards and towards the leadscrew. Note that the flag does NOT
sit level with the base of the XA Nut Holder it should be roughly 1mm up from the bottom.

Place a Thrust Bearing (51200) on the leadscrew shaft ensuring that the ball-race washer with
the smaller (10mm) hole is against the beginning of the leadscrew.

Fit an angular thrust bearing (7000) into the recess on the X Thrust Block ensuring that the
face with the smaller opening is closest to the thrust bearing (see photo below).

Identifying the angular thrust bearing sides


25
Fix the X Thrust Block to the X Left Plate using three 6x16mm cap screws through the recessed
mount points.

Place four 10mm washers over the shaft and then slip on a 20 tooth pulley. Install a 6mm x
9mm grub screw into the pulley and tighten until it meets the flat on the shaft then back it off
very slightly this will then assist in keeping the pulley aligned over the flat. Install a 6x16mm
cap screw with spring washer and flat washer into the end of the leadscrew. Tighten the cap
screw only sufficiently to flatten the spring washer this preloads the bearings.

Feed an XY Sensor cable through the X Left Plate and X Thrust Plate and lightly fix the sensor
to the X Left Plate with two 4mm x 16mm cap screws. The sensor posts face towards the close
edge.

Place the assembly on a flat surface and carefully turn the leadscrew so as to move the home
sensor tab (on the nut holder) towards the sensor. Align the sensor so that the tab has roughly
even spacing between each of the sensor posts. See photo below.

Fit a 10 tooth pulley to a stepper motor pushing it on as far as you can whilst keeping the grub
screw over the flat section of the shaft pushing it on too far will cause the grub screw to
engage on the round part of the shaft.


Fit the stepper motor to the X Stepper Mount Plate using three 5x16mm cap screws, spring
washers and nuts ensuring that the motor is located in the recess. The heads of the cap screws
need to be on the HPDE cover side of the plate with the spring washers and nuts on the motor
side.

WARNING
DO NOT mount the motor so that the wiring exits to the low side or rearwards
if it points down the wires may be cut as soon as the motor passes over the
XY Slide and if it exits rearwards it can be damaged by the column if the table
is moved fully rearwards and to the right. It is best to have the stepper wiring
exit towards the table (ie forwards).


26
Pass the stepper motor cable and sensor cable through the rear of the mount plate. Feed the
motor cable through an 18mm rubber grommet then feed the sensor cable through as well.
Carefully ease the grommet into the hole on the motor plate (a small flat blade screwdriver may
help but be careful not to damage the grommet or cables).

Attach the X Stepper Mount Plate to the X Thrust Block using three 6x20mm cap screws with
spring washers ensuring that you guide the sensor cable into the channel as you align the
motor and trust plates together.

Stepper and sensor cables pass through the motor mount. Note the positioning of where the motor cable exits the motor (far side). From here
both cables run under the HDPE cover and into the loom tube.

Do not fit the X stepper motor with the wiring pointing down the leads will be cut by the XY Slide.

Position the XA Nut Holder over the mounting holes on the XY Slide and using two M5 x 20mm
cap screws fix the holder in place (take care to support the motor end of the leadscrew).


27
To stop the second ball nut from twisting with the leadscrew you need to adjust its feet.

The XB Nut Holder is designed to clear the mounting base by approximately 1mm this is to
allow for any ripples/discrepancies in the base finish. To stop the XB holder from rotating or
twisting simply screw down the two grub screws (feet) until they lightly press on the base. Do
not wind them down too far as doing so will cause binding as the leadscrew is tilted between
the XA & XB holders.

Position the Table back in place on the XY Slide. Replace the gib you removed earlier along with
its grubscrews you do not need to refit the locking lever however if you wish to please do so
it will not interfere with the kit.

Note The grub screw on the extreme left of the Table is difficult to
adjust once the Y stepper motor is in place and will in most cases foul
the rear of the motor. You will need to adjust this grub screw before
installing the Y stepper. An alternative is to take a 6mm cap screw and
file/cut/machine the head square so that you can adjust it with a small
spanner you would also need to shorten the head so that it is
approximately 2mm long. Remember to taper the end of the new
screw. See diagram below. It may not be possible to use this method on
systems which have the newer HDPE Stepper covers on the rear of them
the covers can be removed if you will not be using coolant at all.

Square up the head of a cap screw to use in place of the standard grub screw on the Table gib behind the
Y Stepper.

With the Table now roughly in place turn the leadscrew so as to bring the X Left Plate up
against the table end.

Temporarily remove the X Stepper Mount Plate (as an assembly with the motor) and using two
6x20mm cap screws fix the X Left Plate to the table end loosely.

Continue turning the leadscrew by hand (easiest to turn the pulley) until the table is moved as
far to the right as it will go (maximum ve X). While doing this carefully feel the pressure on
the leadscrew if it becomes noticeably tighter or looser then you will need to back off the cap

28
screws holding the XA Nut Holder in place. You should be able to position the holder and nut to
achieve smooth movement. If the base of the X3 is not machined correctly you may also need
to shim below the nut holder to achieve smooth operation.

Once you have set the nut holder and nut in the correct position back off the screws holding
the X Left Plate and square it up in other words just make sure you align the top edge of
the X Left Plate parallel with the top of the Table. Both the Left and Right X Plates are
purposefully made to sit 0.5mm lower than the table so as to ensure they dont foul any large
object you may mount on the table.

Refit the X Stepper Mount Plate and tighten the cap screws fully.

Locate the X Right Plate and insert a bearing (6000) into the recess on the inside face.

You will need to remove the X Right Plate to make adjustment to the backlash on dual ball nut
systems. You can safely run the X axis without the X Right Plate installed as the bearing in it is
purely for radial support and is not load carrying.

Like the Z axis the X leadscrew is slightly short to allow for minor discrepancies in table lengths
and so the end of the actual thread may not necessarily touch the bearing again this bearing
performs a support function and does not carry any load.

Ensure that the right hand end of the leadscrew goes into the inner hole of the bearing as you
bring the X Right Plate up to the table. Fix the plate in position using two 6x20mm cap screws.

Place the 120XL belt around the 20 tooth pulley and, with the stepper motor screws loose,
begin looping the belt onto the 10 tooth pulley. Turn the 20 tooth pulley to assist in rolling the
belt onto the motor side pulley. Pull the motor back to tighten the belt and while doing so
tighten the motor mount screws. You may find it easier to use a small pry bar or block to assist
in hold tension on the belt as you tighten the screws the belt needs firm tension - not too
tight!!


29
Y Axis
Refer to the following diagram as you follow these steps (the Table and XY Slide should be
assembled by now but not fitted to the X3 base).

If not already installed fit the supplied M5 x 15mm washer to the column end of the leadscrew
using an M5 x 10mm cap screw and red Locatite this washer acts as a stop to prevent the
leadscrew end from entering the ball nut.

Using the previously described method fit a ball nut to the Y leadscrew ensuring that the
threaded end of the nut faces away from the pulley end of the leadscrew (long end).


30
Slide the YA Nut Holder (YB first on dual nut systems see below) over the leadscrew and
screw it onto the ball nut ensuring that it is the correct way around (flag facing the long end of
the leadscrew). Tighten fully then back it off until the ball return tube faces up towards the
locking grub screw. Tighten the grub screw.

YA Nut Holder fitted to the ball nut and on the leadscrew.

Y Dual Ball Nuts
With a ball nut placed on the leadscrew as described above slide the YB Nut Holder over the
leadscrew and onto the ball nut ensuring that the locking grub screw is closest to the ball nut
see photo below for correct orientation. The two grub screw feet are at the bottom.

Orientation of the YB Nut Holder.

Insert two M5 x 10mm cap screws into the tapped holes that are closest to each other on the
flat face of the YA holder - tighten fully. If you wish to use a threadlock on these we suggest
using the blue as you will need to remove them for cleaning the ball nuts (more so the 3
rd
and
not yet fitted cap screw).

Fit two M5 x 10mm cap screws into the flat face of YA holder.


31
Now slide the YA holder onto the leadscrew from the long end ensuring that the flag faces
towards the long end (cap screw heads towards YB holder). Install another ball nut and screw
the YA holder onto it full then back off until the ball return tube faces up. Tighten the locking
grub screw.

Bring the YA assembly up until it touches the back of the YB ball nut. Back off until the ball
return tubes of each ball nut face the same direction. Insert the third M5 x 10mm cap screw
into the rear of the YA Nut Holder and tighten fully. To access the cap screw head you will need
to slightly rotate the YA and YB holders. Note that once the M5 cap screws are in place you will
not be able to turn the YA and YB assemblies in opposite directions as the heads will foul the
YB ball nut.

Insert three M5 x 55 button head screws into the YB holder from the flat face. Wind them
through until they are approximately 12mm from the three M5 cap screw heads. Place a dome
nut on each and tighten (use blue Locatite if you wish as they will need to be removed if you
ever need to take out the YB ball nut). Continue winding in the button head screws until the
dome nuts seat on the M6 cap screw heads. Once they touch only go a further turn to set
the initial preload for backlash. Test that the leadscrew rotates smoothly without binding.
Remember that any adjustment of the backlash screws must be done equally on all three so as
to keep the YA & YB Nut Holders square to each other tilting will cause binding.

Dome nuts seated on the M5 cap screw heads.

Insert an allen key right through one of the holes in the top of the YB holder and place an M6 x
10mm grub screw on it. Using your finger feed the grub screw up to the bottom of the
threaded hole and carefully screw it into the holder. Do the same for the second grub screw.
Make sure that both grub screws are NOT protruding past the bottom of the YB holder.


32
Position the Y Leadscrew and Nut Holder(s) on X3 base as shown below and fix in place with
two M5 x 20mm cap screws which come up through the base and into the nut holder. Screw
down the two M6 grub screw feet so that they gently touch on the machine base. Loosen off
the M5 x 20mm fixing screws enough so that the holders are kept in place but can be moved.

Refit the XY Slide/Table assembly to the Mill Base taking care not to damage any parts as the
table assembly is heavy and can be awkward to manoeuvre. Reinstall the gib and its grub
screws you can also refit the locking lever if you wish as it will not affect the kit.

Mount an XY Sensor to the inside of the Y Front Plate and fix in place with two M4 x 16mm cap
screws. Note that the sensor cable should first be fed through the LOWER of the two holes in
the Y Front Plate. Tighten the cap screws enough so that they hold the sensor in place but it
can still be moved left/right this later makes aligning the sensor a little easier.

Sensor fitted inside the Y Front Plate.

Position the Y Face Plate over the leadscrew and using two M6 x 25mm cap screws lightly fix it
to the front face of the XY Slide.

Position the XY Slide so that the leadscrew shaft end is exposed - slide it towards the column
and if necessary wind the leadscrew out a little.

Place a Thrust Bearing (51200) onto the end of the leadscrew with the smaller (ID) ball-race
washer going on first.


33

Install an Angular Thrust Bearing (7000) into its recess on the front of the Y Thrust Block and
slide them together onto the leadscrew shaft. Align the Y Thrust Block with the Y Face Plate
and fix together using three 6x25mm cap screws. Ensure that the Angular Thrust Bearing has
the larger opening towards the front and the smaller opening towards the Thrust Bearing
(51200).

Place three 10mm plain washers on the shaft followed by the 20 tooth pulley. Install a 6mm x
9mm grub screw into the pulley and tighten until it meets the flat on the shaft then back it off
very slightly this will then assist in keeping the pulley aligned over the flat.

On a 6x16mm cap screw place a spring washer then a plain washer and install this into the end
of the leadscrew. Only tighten the cap screw sufficiently to compress the spring washer this
applies a suitable pre-load to the bearings. Fully tighten the pulley grub screw (apply a thread
lock to it first).

Position the Y Stepper Mount Plate over the pulley ensuring that the stepper recess is facing the
column and attach using three 6x20mm cap screws with spring washers. Ensure first that the
sensor cable is in its channel.

Fit a 10 tooth pulley to a stepper motor so that the grub screw is as low as the flat on the
motor shaft will allow.



34
Fit the stepper motor to the Y Stepper Mount Plate using three 5x16mm cap screws, spring
washers and nuts ensuring that the motor is located in the recess and positioning it so that the
cable exits the side of the motor closest to the leadscrew. The heads of the motor mounting
cap screws needs to be on the HPDE cover side of the plate with the spring washers and nuts
on the motor side.

Feed the stepper motor cable through the access hole and slip an 18mm grommet over it. Push
the grommet into the access hole.

Using a mirror placed to allow you to view the Y opto sensor carefully turn the leadscrew so as
to move the home sensor towards the tab on the nut holder. Align the sensor so that the tab
has roughly even spacing between each of the sensor posts. Double check alignment by
winding the Y leadscrew in and out several times and watching that the tab enters the sensor
squarely and centrally. Once you are happy that the alignment is correct tighten the two cap
screws on the sensor holder firmly (do not over tighten them as doing so could distort the block
and move the sensor). Tighten the two M5 x 20mm capscrews that fix the YA Nut Holder to the
base. Once the cap screws are tightened recheck the alignment.

Place the belt (110XL037) around the larger pulley. Partially loop then hold the other end of
the belt on the smaller pulley while turning the leadscrew - this will assist the belt to slide onto
the smaller pulley with minimal fuss.

Pull back on the stepper motor to tension the belt and tighten the three motor mount cap
screws. The belt needs to be firm but not too tight. You may find it easier to use a small pry
bar or block between the motor and the Y Thrust Block to tension the belt while you tighten the
cap screws.


35
Wiring Looms
HM kits contain stepper motors with cables. HMC kits contain the same motors and cables but
they have our 4 way connectors fitted, HMC kits also have the homing sensors with cables. The
leads for both X&Y stepper motors are both approx 2.5 mtrs in length and the Z motor lead is
shorter at approx 1.5mtr.

In HMC kits the stepper motor leads are supplied with large 4 way pluggable terminals while
homing sensor leads are supplied with smaller 3 way pluggable terminals. Refer to the
controller section for wiring details.

HM kits do not have the 4 way connectors as they are usually purchased by customers who
already have their own controller and who need to obtain the correct connectors to suit that
controller. If we know that you already have one of our controllers (eg with a lathe kit) then HM
kits will also contain the 4 way connectors.

As the Z stepper motor is hidden within the rear column cover it does not require a loom tube.
The X axis loom tube is approximately 75cm long and the Y axis loom tube is approximately
55cm long. All cables exit the rear of the column cover via the 4 x 1mtr lengths of loom tube.

Beginning with the Y axis loom tube feed both the Y stepper and Y Home Sensor cables
through the loom tube leaving approximately 5cm exposed at the stepper mount plate end. The
loom tube has a split running the full length of the tube and you may find it easier pushing the
cables into the tube via the split.

Photo1 Stepper Motor cable through the rubber grommet and the sensor lead exiting near the 20 tooth pulley. Photo2
Cables can easily be pushed into the loom tube via the split.

Pass the motor and sensor cables through the large round loom plate then gradually work
approximately 2cm of the loom tube through the plate.

Fit the plate to the front of the mill base where the original Z handle was mounted using three
5x10mm cap screws provided. Then feed the cables through the base of the mill where the
original Z axis shaft was located exiting the rear of the mill inside the column cover.

Loom tube plate with tube fitted and mounted over the original Z handle position.

36

The same process is repeated for the X axis but this time fitting the small round loom plate to
the end of the loom tube. You should first follow the next step which describes fitting the loom
plates to the rear column cover.

Note that some X3s may have an extended baffle inside the rear column cover which will foul
with the Z stepper motor. As the electronic control board is mounted well up inside the column
you can remove the inside baffle and cut off the lower portion leaving enough to bend towards
the rear creating a false bottom for the electronics section.

Using the small round plate for the X loom as a template mark off its location on the left hand
side of the rear column cover (approximately 4cm from the bottom and 5cm from the rear). Do
the same using the 4 way loom plate but this time on the rear of the cover. Cut out and drill the
cover per these markings. (See diagram below)

With the X stepper motor cable and loom inserted into the small loom plate feed the cable
through the hole on the side of the rear cover and fix the plate in position using two M3x10 self
tapping screws provided.

At this point all three axis motor cables and sensor cables should be inside the rear column
cover. Pass the X Y & Z motor cables through the first three holes of the four way loom plate
and pass all sensor cables through the fourth hole.

Using your preferred method pass each of these through the four 1mtr loom tubes provided.

Push each loom tube onto its holding lip on the four way loom plate and lock into position using
the retainer plate and two 3x10mm self tapping screws.

Fix the four way loom plate to the rear cover using two more 3x10 self tapping screws.

37
HDPE Axis Covers
The HDPE covers can now be fitted to the X & Y motor plates.

Ensure that the cables on each axis are seated within the channel located inside each cover.

Loom tubes are locked in place by the small ridge inside the cover passage so you need to
make sure that sufficient tube length is maintained inside the cover as it is positioned for this
ridge to catch the tube.

Use M4 x 16mm cap screws to fix each of the HDPE covers. This can take a little patience
theres not much room to manoeuvre and you will require a short series hex key to tighten the
cap screws or alternatively cut down a hex key to suit.

Inside the HDPE covers.

It would be wise at this point to recheck that the sensor tabs will not hit any of the sensors.
You should be able to turn each of the leadscrews by hand although the Z is quiet heavy. It is
better to recheck these now rather than start up the system and possibly destroy one or more
sensors.

You are now ready to connect the motors and sensors to the controller. Ensure that the
controller is switched off before doing so as damage to the axis cards could result.

38
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Cleaning
The mill should be cleaned at the end of each job or as soon as practical. This should simply be
a matter of removing all chips, swarf and coolant. If using compressed air to blow down the mill
great care should be taken not to inadvertently blow rubbish into the ball nuts or ways.

It is usually best to remove large chip/swarf deposits by hand and then vacuum the remainder.
If coolant is used please ensure that you use a wet/dry vacuum.

Once the machine is clean apply a suitable grade oil to the ways and the leadscrews. We wont
go into which oil to use as everybody has their own preference.

We suggest that following every 10 hours of use that you check all fixtures such as stepper
motor screws, plate mount screws, grub screws etc to ensure that they have not worked loose
(thats why we recommend using a thread lock).

If you have been machining stock such as cast iron you will need to increase the frequency of
your cleaning and we also suggest a regular strip down of the drivetrains and ball nuts
machining cast iron creates a very fine abrasive powder which will quickly destroy leadscrews
and ways.

Re-assembling ball nuts
If you had a problem when installing the ball nuts during assembly or if you have dismantled
them as a part of your maintenance schedule the following is a guide to re-assembly.

- remove the 2 screws and covers from over the ball return

- position the nut over a section of the leadscrew and begin dropping ball bearings one at
a time into each hole carefully wriggling the leadscrew to allow the ball to drop in (a
12.5mm tube/bar will suffice in place of the leadscrew)

- continue doing this until the balls no longer easily fall into place (approx 6 balls per side)

- using a blunt toothpick or similar, push the ball bearings on each side as you gently
rotate the leadscrew back and forth

- continue replacing the balls repeating the above step until no more balls will go in

- set one side of the ball return tube into position and place the remaining balls in it.

- place the second return tube over the top and replace the hold down bracket clamp and
screws


39
Cleaning the Controller
As long as you have installed the controller in a protected position there should be no need for
regular cleaning however it is wise to occasionally check that the cooling slots on top of the
case and the slotted rear panel over the fan are not blocked. Metallic swarf MUST be kept out
of the controller such swarf getting inside the controller could damage it and may also be a
fire hazard. Keep the controller in a protected location with good airflow do not sit anything
on top of the controller as doing so would hinder air movement inside the case possibly leading
to failure or intermittent operation.

If you want to give the controller a wipe over to clean it up then do so with a damp sponge and
plain water. Using any form of spirits or chemicals may remove the protective lacquer coating
the front and rear panels.
Check The Wiring
Whenever cleaning the machine you should check that chips/swarf have not entered the loom
tubes if it has then it should be cleaned out.

Periodically check the wiring of the motor and sensor lines where they enter the terminal block
to ensure that there is no fraying or that wires have not come out/broken. Under normal
circumstances the wiring at this point is not subject to a lot of movement but it is wise just to
check.

If using coolant you will also need to regularly check that the additives in the coolant are not
adversely effecting the insulation around both the motor and sensor lines.

A final message
Thanks again for purchasing your CNC kit from PROMiCA.

PLEASE let us know if you have any problems installing the kit as we really do want to make
sure that you are happy with your purchase. We view every message, phonecall and email as
an opportunity to improve.

If you find any discrepancies in this manual please take the time to send us an email or give us
a call so that we may correct the issue for future customers.

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