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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Dacor ERD36 range
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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2008 21:59 Add as Friend Ignore Member PM Quote Reply 1st Post
Rogercourtain I have a Dacor ERD36 Range and the oven lights are blinking off an on sometimes every few minutes. sometimes a couple times a second. Last night we got the dreaded F1 code
Senior Apprentice with the blasted beeping. I killed the power at the breaker panel and the F1 went away but the oven light blinks on. Last March we had the membrane keypad replaced under parts
Appliantologist waranty due to the dreaded F1 code. I'm afraid I'm looking at another heafty repair bill. I read in the forum someone was able to go in and clean the ribbon cable connected to the
controller and eliminate the F1. I'm assuming the light blinking is initiating at the keypad membrane. I haven't torn into it yet so any advise would be great!!
Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2008 22:51 Add as Friend Ignore Member PM Quote Reply 2nd Post
jim1872003 It hasn't been a year since last membrane. I don't think that would be the problem this time. Most likely it's the board.
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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2008 17:53 Add as Friend Ignore Member PM Quote Reply 3rd Post
Chesterfoxes I also had the chattering oven light on a Dacor unit. Not wanting to pay for a new keypad, I traced the light wiring back to the relay on the PCB that was chattering, traced the
Senior Apprentice PCB circuit from the relay to the wire on the smaller mylar ribbon cable that comes into the PCB from the blister panel. Fold over pin #1 and pin #2. No more light chattering. No
Appliantologist more light. Turns out the oven lights weren't that important.
Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 21:00 Add as Friend Ignore Member PM Quote Reply 4th Post
Rogercourtain Thanks for the tips. Any advise on accessing the PCB? I assume I need to remove the top, which means the igniters etc need to be removed. Is it pretty straight forward or is there
Senior Apprentice special tools, tricks, and skills required to make this repair?
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Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 06:23 PM Quote Reply 5th Post
Samurai Appliance Dacor has revised the membrane on this range. This parts manual will hepya figger it out.
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Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 07:50 Add as Friend Ignore Member PM Quote Reply 6th Post
Chesterfoxes My 36-inch was just the oven - no range. I managed to get at the PCB by removing the front face plate - there was enough room to visualize where the wiring was coming from and
Senior Apprentice going to. It was kind of difficult, though - I think next time I'd pull the unit out of the cabinet to do it.
Appliantologist
On our dual fuel oven/range, to pull the top off you need a special tool to unscrew the brass ring from the gas tube.
Posted: Mon Jan 18th, 2010 00:16 Add as Friend Ignore Member PM Quote Reply 7th Post
Rogercourtain Well, by some miracle the F1 went away about when the oven light died. It's been two blissful years until last Christmas eve. beeping F1 is back. It's all dismantled now. Noticed a little
Senior Apprentice damage on the J2 solder joints connecting the jumpers between the two ERC boards. They look a little corroded and dull compared to the nearby shiny solder joints. J2 Joints 1,2,3, and
Appliantologist 4 that connect to the 24VDC 16-pin connecter don't look good. Maybe re-soldering could salvage the ERC. Also removed the sub plate to access the relay board. Dust and cobwebs
everywhere. Does anyone think re-soldering the ERC jumper joints will fix the problem?
Posted: Mon Jan 18th, 2010 00:24 Already A Friend PM Quote Reply 8th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of some more info:
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ERD36
Parts
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Posted: Mon Jan 18th, 2010 01:36 Add as Friend Ignore Member PM Quote Reply 9th Post
Rogercourtain Well, by some miracle the F1 went away about when the oven light died. It's been two blissful years until last Christmas eve. beeping F1 is back. It's all dismantled now. Noticed a little
Senior Apprentice damage on the J2 solder joints connecting the jumpers between the two ERC boards. They look a little corroded and dull compared to the nearby shiny solder joints. J2 Joints 1,2,3, and
Appliantologist 4 that connect to the 24VDC 16-pin connecter don't look good. Maybe re-soldering could salvage the ERC. Also removed the sub plate to access the relay board. Dust and cobwebs
everywhere. Does anyone think re-soldering the ERC jumper joints will fix the problem?
Let us open our Appliantology hymnals to the 8th Law of the Prophecy, wherein it is written:
You have an obviously damaged board that will either need to be repaired or replaced. If the repair fails, you'll need to replace it with a new one. You have nothing to lose by
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attempting the repair.
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