Visiting Bandung, Indonesia

Singapore is known for its large migrant population, of which about 170,000 are
domestic workers. According to the terms of their contract, they are entitled to a
return trip to their home country once every two years.

My domestic worker is only 2 years older than me and has been working for my
family for nearly 10 years. She has two teenage children and a deceased husband.
She is the sole breadwinner for her family, including her parents. She was my tour
guide and interpretator.

I visited her when she was back in her country in Sep 09. Below is a recorded
impression of my trip.

Bandung is a city of 9 million people and growing. It is a sprawling urban

mass spread across a huge mountain plateau 750m above sea level and
surrounded by mountains. The buildings are low in height by developed
country standards, and you will seldom see a building more than 3 or 4
storeys high. I'm not sure if it lies in the earthquake zone, but that would
explain the lack of towering skyscrapers. The first visual impression I had of
Bandung was when my plane was about to land. The ubiquitous orange clay
roof-tops were very distinctive. Sporadic patches of cropland dotted the
urban landscape

Aerial view of part of Bandung My domestic worker and I having Sudanese

food

From what I read from the internet, Bandung is one of Indonesia's intellectual
capitals, with many universities and schools. It is also known internationally
for its cheap fake branded goods as well as authentic local fashion design
brands not found elsewhere. Many tourists come specially to shop for shoes,
jeans and jackets produced in factories around Bandung. Jarkarta residents
are also known to drive 2 hours to spend the weekend shopping and eating
there.

While many people are poor, the streets are not filled with beggars like what
you see in India and a few other developing countries. From fly-by
observations from my rented taxi, the people seem contented with their lot,
and get by with simple trading of goods and services. Bandung feels like one
of the most peaceful places I've been to. The people seem happy.
Tea plantation 2000m above sea level One of the many roadside stalls. Delicious
fried beancurd, banana, and vegetables in
flour. Served fresh and piping hot.

Bandung is blessed with rich natural resources, such as plenty of clean fresh
water from the mountains, fertile land for growing crops from volcanic soil
and just plenty and plenty of space. Not to mention hot springs, natural
scenery and volcanic geographical features.

I visited during the fasting month of Ramadan, so the city was much less busy
then usual, because many of the city residents have returned to their home
villages and towns to fast and spend time with their families. On the day of
Hari Raya Puasa, there would be festivities on the streets, people would dress
up in their finest clothes and visit their relatives.

Her family lived in Garut, a small city an hour’s drive from Bandung. When I
arrived at her house, I was surprised to find that it has all the modern
amenities such as a television, a fridge, fresh water from the tap and
electricity. The cost of living there is so low that a Singaporean domestic
worker's wages is comparable to that of a public school teacher, which is the
second highest paying profession after being in the police force. Speaking of
which, the police force demands at least a S$1000 bribe to just secure an
interview with the police force, after which if accepted, the candidate is set for
life, with monthly wages of more than S$1000 that is a cause for envy and
pride locally.

The centre yard of the family compound Rice field in Garut

A resthouse in Garut, my domestic worker's
home town an hour's drive from Bandung.
The wall is made of handwoven bamboo.
House in Garut belonging to a 'haji' family.
'Haji' is a derogatory term for rich people, as
they can afford the pilgrimage to Mecca. The
house belongs to someone in the teaching
profession and took a number of years to
build.

My domestic worker's family stays in a compound that included several

houses that accommodated members of her extended family, including
aunties, uncles and cousins. I really envied their communal way of living, a
luxury ill afforded in Singapore with its lack of space. The back of her
compound gives way to a stunning vista of rice fields and cropland that
extends all the way to the distant mountains.

Deepak, her adopted son, 18 months old, and From left - my domestic worker's mum, son
devilishly adorable. and aunt
Deepak and I at the backyard. Deepak. He cried when we left the house to
return to the hotel.

Her family was very hospitable and courteous towards me. The little two
year-old son of hers was adorable, precocious and charming. They were both
surprised and honoured that an employer of their family breadwinner would
come and pay a visit. I on the other hand was inspired by their warmth and
communal way of living. While there is no basis of comparison between my
life in Singapore and theirs in Garut, it seems believable to me that the grass
is greener on the other side.