Bread Baking Steps

Nearly all breads contain 3 primary ingredients—flour, liquid, and yeast—and are made using the
same simple steps. With these basics, you can produce an incredible variety of flavors and textures by
adjusting the types and amounts of ingredients used (for instance store-bought yeast versus natural
airborne yeasts) and the way the steps are employed.

1. Measuring Ingredients
The first step in bread-making is, of course, measuring the ingredients. This is important,
because differences in proportions of ingredients can produce significant changes in the finished bread.
There are 2 ways to measure ingredients: by weight (ounces or grams) and by volume (tablespoons,
cups, etc.). Weighing is preferable, as it's more consistent (in particular with flour, which can vary
significantly in volume depending on how much it packs
down in the package and how much you fluff it up), but of The Baker's Percentage
course it does require a scale. Commercial bakers use a system called
If you prefer to measure by volume, try to be as the baker's percentage, which makes it
accurate as possible. When measuring liquids, place the easy to create new recipes and scale
liquid measuring cup in a stationary position at eye level and
ingredients up and down. While you can
take the reading from the bottom of the meniscus (the curved
make spectacular breads without
upper surface of the liquid). Flour can be measured either by
the dip and sweep method or by spooning it into the cup and, understanding the baker's percentage, if
without shaking or tapping the cup, leveling it off, but these you become a regular bread baker, you
methods produce different results, so always follow the may find it helpful. When using the
method specified in the recipe. Before measuring flour, it's baker's percentage, all the ingredient
best to stir it a bit because it settles in the container. Use amounts are calculated as a percentage
measuring spoons for smaller amounts, such as for yeast. of the weight of the flour, which is 100
percent. Keep in mind that this usually
2. Pre-Ferments (Optional Step) doesn't take into consideration residual
An optional—but important—step in bread-making is ingredients such as the water contained in
using what's called a pre-ferment. Bread gets its spongy honey or potato. However, some
consistency from fermentation—the interplay of flour, water,
recipes, including several in this primer,
and yeast that begins when the water activates an enzyme
contained in the flour that breaks down the starch and have what's called the dough percentage,
converts it to sugar. The yeast feeds on the sugar, growing which accounts for all residual
and multiplying, and producing 2 essential by-products: ingredients. If, for example, the water
alcohol and carbon dioxide. The alcohol adds flavor, while percentage is 66 percent, this includes
the bubbles of carbon dioxide "leaven," or raise, the dough not just the water added to the recipe but
and establish the bread's crumb or texture. also water contained in any other
During fermentation, temperature and time play an ingredient(s).
important role in the development and complexity of flavor.
If fermentation takes place at a cooler temperature—in the refrigerator, for instance—the process slows
down and the bread develops a more complex flavor. On the other hand, if fermentation takes place
more quickly, the resulting bread will have a less complex flavor.
Much of the fermentation process takes place during the proofing stage, which we'll discuss
below, but pre-fermentation is an optional extra step that helps develop flavor. Although pre-
fermentation is a key characteristic of sourdough bread, it can be used to adapt any recipe depending
on what materials you have on hand, what kind of bread you want to make, and how much time you
have to devote to the process.

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 Pre-fermentation involves mixing part of the dough's flour, water, and yeast and allowing it to
ferment before adding it to the rest of the dough. The use of a pre-ferment allows you to use less yeast
because the pre-ferment kick-starts the fermentation process before the dough is actually mixed
together.
Making a pre-ferment several hours before adding it to dough will give bread an extra depth of
flavor, but if a pre-ferment is made one or even several days in advance, it will also add acidity. In
small amounts, acidity extends the shelf life of bread, but in larger amounts, such as in the case of
sourdough, it starts to affect the texture of bread, creating large holes in the crumb.
There are several different kinds of pre-ferments, and they differ by how much liquid they contain and
how long they ferment. Here is an overview of 5 types of pre-ferment:
Biga: This is a stiff pre-ferment approximating the consistency of bread dough. It is made with
at least 1/3 the water called for in the recipe, double its volume in flour, and a small amount of yeast
(about 0.2 percent of the weight of the flour). A biga must ferment at room temperature until it has
doubled in volume, roughly 8 to 24 hours. It can then be stirred down and refrigerated for up to 3 days
—longer than that and the dough may become too acidic. Other pre-ferments cannot be stored this
way, making a biga a good choice if you can't make bread for several days. Before adding a biga to the
rest of the dough, cut it with scissors or tear it into small pieces and allow it to soak, covered, for 30 to
60 minutes in the remaining water called for in the recipe. Once the biga is softened, it can be added to
the dough as directed by your recipe.
Sponge: This has a soft consistency akin to that of pancake batter, and is made by whisking
together all the water in a recipe with 30 to 50 percent of the flour and a little less than half the yeast.
The sponge is then covered with a blanket of the remaining flour mixed with the remaining yeast and
any sugar or malt powder. A sponge must ferment, covered, for at least 1 hour, but can be held up to 4
hours at room temperature or 24 hours in the refrigerator before mixing. Once a sponge has fermented
for 1 hour, it is ready to be mixed with the rest of the dough.
Poolish: This soft, sticky pre-ferment consists of 22 to 33 percent of the total flour in the recipe,
equal or more than its weight in water, and a very small percentage of the yeast called for—anywhere
from 0.03 percent to 0.5 percent of the weight of the flour, depending on how long it will ferment
(from 3 to 12 hours). The poolish is ready to use when it has risen to about 3 times its volume and is
beginning to recede and wrinkle on the surface. At this point it must be used—the poolish cannot be
stored for later use. Unlike with a sponge, the rest of the ingredients are not placed on top of a poolish;
instead, once the poolish is ready, it is simply combined with the remaining ingredients.
Sourdough: While other pre-ferments require the addition of commercial yeast, sourdough (also
called levain and barm) is created from wild yeast that resides on the flour grain and, once fully active,
is capable of providing all the yeast necessary to produce a deeply complex and flavorful loaf. As
mentioned earlier, the high acidity of the dough creates large holes in the bread. (For a more detailed
explanation of sourdough, see the sourdough section of this primer.)
Unrefreshed Sourdough Starter: Excess sourdough starter can be frozen to use as a superb and
effortless pre-ferment. It makes for a stiff pre-ferment with a consistency similar to that of soft bread
dough. Use about 16 percent of the weight of the flour in the recipe and, to balance the salt content,
add 1/8 teaspoon for every 1/3 cup (2.6 ounces or 75 grams) of starter. As with other stiff pre-ferments,
an unrefreshed sourdough starter must be cut with scissors or torn into small pieces and allowed to
soak, covered, for 30 to 60 minutes in the remaining water called for in the recipe. Once softened, it
can be added to the dough as directed by your recipe. Note that the frozen unrefreshed starter does not
need to be defrosted—it will defrost sufficiently while soaking in the water.

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3. Mixing and Kneading
Once the ingredients have been measured (and after the No-Knead Bread
pre-ferment has been made, if one is being used), the dough has If you don't own a stand mixer (or food
to be kneaded. Kneading involves pushing and pulling the processor or bread machine) or don't
dough to stretch and strengthen the gluten in the dough. Gluten have the time or inclination to knead by
gives bread structure; it consists of strands of protein that form
hand, consider no-knead bread. This
when water is added to flour. The protein stretches to
technique, originated by Jim Lahey of
accommodate the bubbles produced during fermentation,
allowing bread to rise. New York's Sullivan Street Bakery, is
There are 4 ways to mix and knead bread: in a bread based on the idea that given enough time
machine, in a stand mixer, by hand, and in a food processor. For (at least 12 hours), the natural
most bread, any method will work. However, if you're working fermentation process will accomplish
with a very sticky dough, it's better to use a bread machine or what kneading does—bring the flour and
stand mixer—when kneading by hand, it is tempting to add too water together to develop gluten and
much flour (which can dry out the dough), and in the food establish bread's structure. The long,
processor, a very sticky dough often lifts up the blades and is slow fermentation process requires less
difficult to remove. yeast than traditional recipes and makes
Different recipes include specific instructions for how for bread with deep, complex flavors.
and when to add ingredients. However, there are 2 important
Lahey's other secret is baking no-knead
rules of thumb for all recipes. First, salt can kill yeast, so it is
better to add it to dough after the yeast has already been mixed bread in a preheated covered pot, which
into the flour or to mix it into the flour before adding the yeast. creates the steam necessary to achieve a
Either way, the point is to prevent the salt from coming in direct beautiful interior crumb and a thin,
contact with yeast. The temperature of water added to dough is crackly crust. To give this method a try,
also very important: Cool, room-temperature, and warm water check out Jim Lahey's recipe.
are fine, but ice water and hot water (anything above 120°F) risk
killing the yeast. If you use cold water, it will take the dough longer to rise (except if using a food
processor to mix it) because it slows down the fermentation process.
Using an Autolyze: Most dough will benefit from using the autolyze technique, which simply
means mixing together only the flour and water (some bakers also add the yeast and the pre-ferment if
using) to form a rough dough and letting it rest, covered, for 20 minutes before mixing in the
remaining ingredients (the salt and if not already added, the yeast and the pre-ferment).
An autolyze provides for even hydration and more gentle development of the dough. The even
hydration helps prevent the dough from being too sticky, eliminating the need to add additional flour.
This is particularly good for breads with large open holes such as ciabatta as extra flour prevents the
proper formation of those holes. However, using the autolyze technique will improve the texture and
rise of any bread.
Following the autolyze, any remaining ingredients are added and the dough is kneaded more
vigorously for 3 to 10 minutes to realign and strengthen the gluten strands. How long dough is kneaded
depends on what kind of bread is being made. A bread with large holes, such as ciabatta, requires less
kneading and only gentle stretching and handling. A dense, chewy bread, like a bagel, requires longer
kneading to develop the gluten. Specific recipes indicate how the dough should look and feel when it is
kneaded adequately, but in general, it's best to keep the dough fairly moist and sticky because during
the first rise the gluten continues to develop, absorbing its moisture more evenly.
When kneading by hand try to use as little flour as possible as too much flour can dry out the
dough.
How to Knead: When kneading dough by hand, reserve about 1/8 of the flour from the recipe to
use while kneading. This should help prevent adding too much flour, which is always a risk when

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working by hand. Begin by using a wooden spoon to stir the ingredients in a bowl until all the dry
particles are moistened. Empty the contents of the bowl onto a work surface lightly dusted with some
of the reserved flour, then press it together to form a ball. To knead, use the heel of your hands to bring
the upper part of the dough over and toward you, and then push it against the work surface and away
from you. Knead the dough for 5 minutes, adding as little of the reserved flour as necessary to keep it
from sticking and using a bench scraper to lift the dough and scrape any that sticks to the work surface
back onto the main ball. Cover the dough with a bowl and allow it to rest for 20 minutes—this is the
autolyze—then continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic, 5 to 10 minutes.
When using a stand mixer to knead, it usually takes about 1 minute on low speed to form the
rough dough before the autolyze. In the bread machine it takes about 3 minutes. Keep in mind that
bread machines always start with a 3-minute mix then progress to more vigorous kneading. If you want
to use an autolyze, you will need to turn the bread machine off after the initial 3-minute mix. When
you turn it back on after the 20-minute rest, the machine will start with the 3-minute gentle mix again.
Once it goes into the kneading cycle, the amount of kneading time will be the same as in the stand
mixer—5 to 7 minutes, depending on the recipe.
Using a food processor is the fastest and most efficient way to make bread. The processor's
blades move so fast that the dough is hydrated quickly, eliminating the need for an autolyze. Plus, the
processing effectively "kneads" the dough. The speed of the food processor also makes it especially
useful for firm and slightly sticky dough. However, dough (and any ingredients to be added, including
a pre-ferment and water) should be chilled before being processed so it doesn't overheat from the
friction of the blades.
To make bread in the food processor, begin by placing the dry ingredients in the processor bowl
and processing to mix. Then add the chilled pre-ferment. If adding additional liquid, do it with the
processor on. Process for 45 seconds after the dough comes together. If absolutely necessary—for
instance, if the dough sticks to the sides of the bowl a lot—add a little more flour and process a few
seconds longer. Empty onto a lightly floured counter and knead by hand for a few seconds to equalize
the temperature.

(The first rise (or proofing) is essential for developing a bread's flavor and structure.)

4. Proofing
Once the dough has been kneaded, the next step is called "proofing," or "the first rise." This is
the main fermentation. Think of proofing as an essential and effortless (for you) way to develop the
bread's structure and flavor. Just as in the pre-ferment, the yeast is activated by the liquid and begins to
feed on the flour, releasing carbon dioxide bubbles. These are trapped by the gluten strands that have
been developed during kneading. Also, more alcohol and acids are produced, which flavor the bread.
Dough needs to be covered during proofing to keep its surface soft and moist. Plastic dough-
rising containers are sold for proofing, but you can also use a large bowl and plastic wrap. If your
kitchen is around 75°F to 80°F, just cover the dough tightly with plastic wrap (if using a bowl) or a lid
(if using a dough-rising container). At cooler temperatures, create a warm, moist environment by
setting a container of very hot tap water near the rising dough and cover both with a large bowl or
plastic proofing box—you will need to reheat the water every 30 to 40 minutes. Alternatively, you can
place the dough (and the container of very hot water) in a microwave oven (not turned on!) or a
standard oven without a pilot light, but with the oven light turned on to provide gentle heat.
Dough is sufficiently proofed when it has doubled in size. (Dough that contains more than 50
percent whole wheat is an exception. Because of all the bran, it is more fragile and should only be
allowed to rise to 1 ½ times its size).
There are two ways to determine whether dough is sufficiently proofed: by sight and by touch.
To use the sight method, you will need to visually measure how much dough increases in size. Plastic

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dough-rising containers have markings on the sides that make it easy to see when the dough has risen
to the proper height. Alternatively, you can mark a bowl with tape. The touch method requires poking a
fingertip into the dough. If the dough holds the depression, it is ready.
Breads vary in the number of times they are proofed. A simple bread such as focaccia might
only be proofed once, but a more complex-flavored bread, such as a rye loaf could be proofed as many
as 3 times.
This initial proofing is done at warm room temperature, ideally 75°F to 80°F. Fermentation
produces heat, so the maximum temperature should be 85°F, as higher than 90°F can result in off
flavors.

5. Punching Down and Turning Dough

Once dough has risen to double its size, it must be pressed down or turned to prevent it from
overproofing. If bread is allowed to rise to more than double its size, the gluten will stretch to the point
of collapse and will no longer be able to hold the gas bubbles that provide necessary structure for the
loaf. Overproofed dough is usually very dense.
Punching down is actually an antiquated term, as artisan bread bakers prefer to treat dough
more gently, pressing and gently deflating it rather than punching it. To punch down dough, transfer it
to a lightly floured surface, then use your fingertips to gently press and stretch it.
If dough is to have a second proofing, it must be folded using one package fold or two
business-letter folds after it's been punched down. To make a package fold, stretch the bottom of the
dough and fold it up to the center, then repeat with the left side, right side, and top. To make a
business-letter fold, press the dough into a rectangle. Fold the bottom third of the dough rectangle over
the center, then fold the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. For the second fold, rotate the dough
package 90 degrees and fold into thirds again. After the dough has been punched down, if it is not
going to have a second rise, you can let it rest for 20 minutes then move on to shaping it.

(Some doughs require just one rise, while others get two or even three rises.)

6. The Second Proofing (Optional Step)

As mentioned, some dough is proofed more than once. The second proofing can be done at
room temperature for a shorter time or overnight in the refrigerator. The longer, cooler option is
actually advantageous—the cold of the refrigerator slows down fermentation, which makes for
additional complex flavors but slightly less volume. The dough can be left in the dough-rising bowl or
placed in a resealable plastic bag coated lightly with nonstick vegetable-oil spray or vegetable oil. If
proofing takes place in the refrigerator, the dough needs to be brought to room temperature before
proceeding.

7. Dividing and Preshaping the Dough

Some bread needs to be divided to form more than one loaf or roll. When dividing, be sure to
use a sharp knife or kitchen shears, as tearing it will compromise the gluten. Whether or not a dough is
divided, it should be roughly preshaped and allowed to rest, covered, for 20 minutes after the second
proofing. This will help produce the most evenly shaped loaf.

8. Shaping
Different types of bread require different shaping, and your recipe will provide the necessary
details. Here are some general pointers for shaping any bread.
Dough for breads with large internal holes such as ciabatta or focaccia needs to be handled very
gently so as not to deflate the air bubbles, which create the holes. For flat breads such as focaccia and
ciabatta, dimpling the dough with your fingertips pushes the air bubbles together to create the

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characteristic large, irregular holes. These doughs are poured or scraped onto a baking sheet that's been
coated lightly with nonstick vegetable-oil spray or vegetable oil.
While breads like ciabatta and focaccia are only gently handled before baking, others, such as
rolls or sandwich loaves, are given a more definite shape. When shaping loaves or rolls, pinching the
seam at the bottom helps to form a tight outer "skin" and results in a higher rise and better form.
There are two surfaces to rising dough—the lower surface that is touching the bottom of the
bowl or dough-rising container, which is usually bumpy, and the upper surface, which is not pressing
against any surface and so is usually smooth. You want the smooth surface to become the outside or
top of the loaf, so when shaping, place it against the work surface. As you shape the dough, the smooth
surface will grip the work surface slightly, helping to create a better final shape.

9. The Final Rise

Once dough is shaped, it needs to rise (be proofed) for a final time. It should be transferred to
the pan it will be baked in or on (most often a loaf pan or baking sheet) first. As with previous rises,
cover dough with lightly oiled plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm, moist environment. Alternatively,
the final rise can take place in the refrigerator overnight, though be sure to bring the dough to room
temperature before proceeding.
Let shaped dough rise until it has almost doubled in size and a finger gently pressed against the
side creates an impression that slowly fills in. Note that this differs from the test for the initial
proofing, when you are looking for the impression to hold. During the final rise, you don't want the
dough to rise completely because it will continue to rise in the oven.
If the dough has overrisen and keeps the impression, it will not continue to rise much if at all
when placed in the oven. If it is underrisen, it will rise too rapidly when placed in the oven and the
crust will burst unevenly.

10. Glazing (Optional Step)

Glazes are used to produce different effects on bread crust. Spraying dough with water or
brushing with a mixture of 2 tablespoons beaten egg white and 1/2 teaspoon water produces a crisp
crust. A whole egg lightly beaten with 1 teaspoon of water, produces a shiny golden crust. Egg yolks
produce the brownest crust and usually necessitate tenting the bread loosely with foil after the first 20
minutes of baking. An egg yolk lightly beaten with 1 teaspoon of cream produces a very shiny deep-
brown crust, beaten with 1 teaspoon of milk, it gives a shiny, medium-brown crust. Melted butter or oil
makes for a soft velvety crust. Glazes can also be used to "glue" or attach seeds to bread before baking.
If using an egg glaze, do not use steam during baking, as it will dull the shine.
Rather than a liquid glaze, dough can be dusted with flour to create an attractive, crisp crust.

11. Stenciling and Slashing (Optional Step)

Stenciling and slashing are done primarily for decorative reasons, but originally they served as
ways to personalize and identify breads made in a communal oven. To stencil dough, cut a design into
paper or parchment, lay it gently on top of the dough, and sift flour over the open portions. Carefully
lift the stencil away.
Slashes, in addition to being decorative, also establish precisely where the bread will split
during baking. If bread is not slashed, it will split open slightly at the sides, just under the crown if
baked in a loaf pan and toward the bottom if free-form.
A one-sided razor blade works best for slashing. Make the slash 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep—if
necessary, go over the slash again to deepen it.

12. Baking
The goal of baking is to gelatinize or cook the dough and to achieve good volume and an

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attractive crust. Here are several simple techniques for baking beautiful, delicious bread every time.
Preheat: Bread benefits from an immediate hit of strong heat right at the beginning of baking.
Always preheat the oven, with a baking stone set on the bottom rack, at least 45 minutes before baking.
If you're unsure of your oven's accuracy, use a separate oven thermometer to ensure the right baking
environment for your loaf.
Steam: To get the most volume from your bread, you need to slow down the formation of the
crust—the slower the crust forms, the more time the dough has to expand—by adding steam to the
oven. To do so, place a cast-iron pan on the floor of the oven when you preheat it. As soon as you put
the bread in the oven, toss a handful (about 1/2 cup) of ice into the preheated cast-iron pan and
immediately close the door.
Rotate: To ensure even baking, rotate bread halfway through baking.
Customize: Different types of bread bake at different temperatures, and your recipe will tell you
exactly what temperature to use. A butter- and egg-rich dough, such as brioche, requires a lower
temperature of 350°F and a soft white sandwich bread 375°F—the lower temperature results in thicker
crust, which prevents the sides of these delicate breads from collapsing. Breads with a large amount of
honey also need lower baking temperatures to prevent overbrowning. Most rustic hearth breads should
have thin, crisp crusts, so unless they contain ingredients such as potato, which browns quickly at a
higher temperature, they usually bake at 400°F to 450°F.
Test for Doneness: Bread is finished baking when a skewer inserted in the middle comes out
clean. Until you are familiar with a specific recipe and how your oven bakes, it is best to use an
instant-read thermometer to determine doneness. Many bakers test bread by tapping the bottom—if it
sounds hollow, the bread is ready—but this method isn't nearly as reliable as using a thermometer. Try
to take the bread's temperature in the center of the loaf. To avoid making a hole in the top crust, insert
the probe in the bottom center of the loaf. If baking bread in a loaf pan, insert the thermometer
sideways just under the crown. Most bread should be baked to 190°F to 210°F, but it's best to consult
your recipe, as the proper finished temperature varies for different types—butter- and egg-rich dough,
for instance, finishes at between 180°F and 190°F while rustic hearth breads are done somewhere
between 205°F and 211°F.

13. Cooling, Slicing, and Storing Bread

Once bread is removed from the oven, set it on a rack to make sure air can circulate and to
prevent the crust from becoming soggy. It's important to allow bread to cool all the way, or until it's
just barely warm, to complete the cooking process before cutting. Rolls will take only about 20
minutes to cool. Bread baked in a loaf pan can take as long as 1 hour and a large free-form loaf can
take as long as 1 1/2 hours to cool. If you like warm bread, simply return your loaf to a preheated
350°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
To slice bread, use a serrated knife with deep serrations, which will make it easier and neater to
cut slices. Some bread, such as baguettes, have a more attractive texture when torn rather than cut.
Bread usually tastes best the day it is made. However, if you use a pre-ferment, the bread may
stay good as long as 3 to 5 days because its acidity prevents mold from forming. How much fat bread
contains also affects its shelf life—fat acts a preservative.
To keep the crust crisp, store bread in a brown paper bag at room temperature. Bread should not
be stored in the refrigerator as the starch will crystallize and the loaf will go stale more rapidly.
Bread freezes perfectly, if well-wrapped, for at least 3 months. Be sure to wrap whole loaves or
slices airtight in plastic wrap then place in resealable plastic freezer bags. Lightly toasting frozen bread
will help restore its texture and bring out its flavor.

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