The Pakistan Textile Industry - An Overview:

The textile industry is one of the most important sectors of Pakistan. It contributes
significantly to the country's GDP, exports as well as employment. It is, in fact, the backbone
of the Pakistani economy.

Established capacity

The textile industry of Pakistan has a total established spinning capacity of 1550 million kgs
of yarn, weaving capacity of 4368 million square metres of fabric and finishing capacity of
4000 million square metres. The industry has a production capacity of 670 million units of
garments, 400 million units of knitwear and 53 million kgs of towels.

The industry has a total of 1221 units engaged in ginning and 442 units engaged in spinning.
There are around 124 large units that undertake weaving and 425 small units. There are
around 20600 power looms in operation in the industry. The industry also houses around 10
large finishing units and 625 small units.

Pakistan's textile industry has about 50 large and 2500 small garment manufacturing units.
Moreover, it also houses around 600 knitwear-producing units and 400 towel-producing
units.

Contribution to exports

According to recent figures, the Pakistan textile industry contributes more than 60% to the
country's total exports, which amounts to around 5.2 billion US dollars. The industry
contributes around 46% to the total output produced in the country.

In Asia, Pakistan is the 8th largest exporter of textile products.

Contribution to GDP and employment

The contribution of this industry to the total GDP is 8.5%. It provides employment to 38% of
the work force in the country, which amounts to a figure of 15 million. However, the
proportion of skilled labor is very less as compared to that of unskilled labor.

Organisations in the industry

All Pakistan Textile Mills Association is the chief organization that determines the rules and
regulations in the Pakistan textile industry.

Opportunities available

The world demand for textiles is rising at around 2.5%, due to which there is a greater
opportunity for rise in exports from Pakistan.
 The cotton country…

History of Pakistan Textile Industry

Increase in the cotton production and expansion of textile industry has been impressive in Pakistan
since 1947. Cotton – bales increase from 1.1 million bales in 1947 to ten million bales by 2000.
Number of mills increased from 3 to 600 and spindles from about 177,000 to 805 million similarly
looms and finishing units increased but not in the same proportion. It employs 50% of industrial
labour force and earns 65% foreign exchange of total exports. Pakistan’s textile industry experts feel
that Pakistan has fairly large size textile industry and 60-70% of machines need replacement for the
economic and quality production of products for a highly competitive market. But unfortunately it
does not have any facility for manufacturing of textile machinery of balancing modernization and
replacement (BMR) in the textile mills which need to think about joint ventures for the production of
complete spinning units with china, Italy and production of shuttle less looms (Projectile) with Korea,
Taiwan and Italy.

Cotton textile industry has been premier industry in Pakistan and a major source of export earning
and employment. It also helps in value addition to the manufacturing sector of the economy. During
the six years between 1993 and 1998, production of yarn (in quantity terms) registered a steady
annual growth rate of 302% in Bangladesh and 405% in India. On the contrary, Pakistan registered a
growth rate of 101% per annum in yarn production although it ranked third after China and India in
the global yarn production during the same six years. In exports, while Taiwan, India and the republic
of Korea registered an annual increase of 18.1%, 27.7% and 5.4% respectively during 1993-1998,
Pakistan registered a negative growth of 4.8% one important development was that till 1997,
Pakistan was the world’s largest exporter yarn followed by India. However, in 1998, India gained the
NO 1 position, leaving Pakistan at NO 2 In the case of cotton cloth production, a number of Asian
countries have been emerging in the international market to compete with Pakistan. These countries
are Bangladesh, India, Taiwan, Indonesia, Thailand, Turkey, Sri Lanka and Iran. The latest available
date on overall export performance of Pakistan comported with some regional countries is given in
table 1: The above-mentioned presentation in the context of international scenario highlights the
adverse position of Pakistan’s textile industry when is likely to continue further following the full
implementation of WTO agreement from 2005 onwards when an era of free trade will start globally.
Notwithstanding the above fact, current stagnation in the local textile industry can be overcome
through efforts, consistent with charges occurring in the international market. It must be
appreciated that all successive governments since the birth of cotton textile industry in Pakistan
have been encouraging the textile exporters to penetrate into new market and also to broaden the
base of exportable commodities by including value added textile goods so that reliance on exports of
cotton, cotton yarn and coarse fabrics gradually become minimal.

Reflecting on the state of affairs, Abid Chinoy, Pakistan cloth merchants Association (PCMA)
Chairman, Appreciated government’s efforts to encourage new exports and finding new markets,
which need aggressive export marketing. The steps taken on the monetary front, such as the
frequent devaluation of Pak rupee in terms of dollar could not improve the cost competitiveness of
exportable products due to increase in prices of the local and imported inputs of the local textile
industry, and also due to inelastic demand for the Pakistan’s exports. It has been rightly mentioned
in the latest stage bank of Pakistan’s annual report (FY01) that, “Over the years Pakistan’s exports
receipts have been vulnerable on account of the narrow base of exportable items, concentrated
markets and low value addition ‘this indicated that the growth in the country’s overall exports,
including textile products which contributed more then 60% of total export receipts each year, could
to be related some cosmetic and ad hoc measure like devaluation of Pak rupee and concession
export credits. The first textile commission, which was constituted by the first material law
government in 1960 had, inter-alia, recommended that an economic size textile unit should
preferably have 25,000 spindles and 500 looms. No new mill with only 12,500 spindles and without
looms should be sanctioned. However, no need was paid to the advice by the sanctioning authorities
with the result that an excess capacity had tented to build up in the spinning sector.

During the period 1973 to December 1992, some 71 spinning units with 1,136, 835 spindles, 6,600
rotors ands 7,329 looms were closed down. In 1992, a foreign consultant form was hired by the
government to look into the stagnating conditions in the local textile industry. One of the
observations of the foreign consultant was “Pakistan has failed to make real progress in the
international market and is being over taken by many of the neighboring competitor countries. The
spinning sector, traditionally the core of the industry, is already in the crisis with many spindles lying
idle and mills being forced to close. Worse still, this sector will be hit by the projected decline of its
major markets in Japan and Hong Kong in the coming years.”

Another important strategic recommendation given by the foreign consultant very much relevant to
the current

conditions: “It is vital that companies play very positive role in the markets, which each one having
its own marketing activity, whose job is to understand the need of the customers and the ever
changing competitive dynamics of the markets. In order to improve exports, Pakistan’s Readymade
Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PRGMEA) has urged the commerce minister
Abdul Razzak Dawood to set up an Apparel Board for the promotion of export of woven and kit
garments which fetch US$ 2.5 billion foreign exchange for the country. The industry experts are of
the opinion that in the order to have a strong industrial base, Pakistan economy need investment
upswing. Pakistan’s economic growth performance during recent years has been dismal: as against
the average growth rate of 6.1% in the 1980s, the half and 4.0% in the 2nd half of the 1990s. The
major micro-economic instability factors like high inflation rate, budgetary deficit, continuous
depreciation of rupee, economic sanctions, etc. could not help the investment process. Such an
environment cannot be conducive to investment and growth. Exporters of textile products have
found the target of US$ 10.4 billion set by the government for the year 2002-2003, as achievable and
termed it a realistic approach. The textile sector which constituted 69% of total export during 2001-
2002, believes that enhanced quota by the European Union and Turkey would make this possible to
fetch another US$1 billion this year.

The rise in export of value-added products from Pakistan was another point of encouragement for
the textile sector. “The export of value-added products rose to 57.4% from 53.9% last year-a clear
sign that we are moving in the right direction, “said the Chairman of all Pakistan textile mills
association.

The trade policy is considered an acceptable paper, but in the industry does not fine anything that
could lead to a high level exports achievement and remove trade imbalance.

Pakistan’s textile sector earned US$5.77 billion during the outgoing year, compared with US$5.577
BILLION OF 2000-2001 indicating a growth of 0.69%. “Textile vision 2005” has identified the present
status and opportunities to make in roads in conventional and hew markets and has developed
sectoral recommendations, hence the sectoral committees set up by the federal textile Board (FTB)
would play an important role be ensuring the availability of quality raw materials on competitive
prices and improvement in designing, and would adopt quality standards and increase productivity
levels. It would attract foreign brands and promote Pakistani brands with world-class standers.

With such a positive trend, Pakistan’s textile sector is getting rid of old impediments and gearing
itself up for the new opportunities in the new trade regime. 

Import of textile machinery increased 3.1% during first eight

months

During the first eight months (July to February) of the current fiscal year,
the import of textile machinery recorded 3.1% growth to $163.844 million

as compared to $158.897 million in the corresponding period of last year. In

the current tough and disappointing scenario, investment in textile industry

is like a light at the end of the tunnel and reflects that still there are chances

of revival in this important sector of the economy. The import cost in

February was $23.10 million as against $7.992 million in the same month of

last fiscal year, showing an increase of 190%.

The government has already granted exemption of customs duty on import

of a wide range of textile machinery and equipments including machines for

extruding, drawing, texturing or cutting manmade textile materials and textile

winding (including weft-winding) or reeling machines under the SRO

809(I)/2009 of September 19, 2009. (see Islamabad Outlook pg. 12).

The textile machinery had been showing decreasing trend in since 2006.

Pakistan imported textile machinery worth $928.6 million during 2004-05.

However a decline of 12% in the import of textile machinery was witnessed

in 2005-06 worth $817.2 million. In 2006-07 imports declined by 38.4%

and totalled $502.9 million, while machinery worth $438.3 million with a

decrease of 12.8% was imported during 2007-08. Before the removal of

quota system, the textile industry made around Rs 5 billion investments by

modernizing and expanding its units to prepare itself in the post quota

regime.

During the last ten years (1999-2009) textile industry has made an

investment of about US$ 7.5 billion. The total investment to be divided in

various sub sectors of textile industry, indicates that 50.2% in spinning sector

followed by 17% in textile processing, 15% in weaving while the investment

and other sectors namely like knit wear, made ups and synthetic textile at
respective rate of 7.02%, 4.71% and 5.76%. This investment includes both

investment through bank loan as well as own sources. This investment has

been made in the form of Balancing Modernization Replacement (BMR)

expansion and new capacity. Textile Machinery worth US$ 215.5 million has

been imported during the year 2008-09. Presently whatever investment is

being made it is mostly confined to the denim sector whereas spinning and

value-added sector have modest investment inthis context.

Textile sector is the backbone of Pakistan export economy. It comprises of

521 textiles units. Pakistan is the fourth largest producer of cotton and third

largest consumer. It contributes 9% of GDP and employs 38% of the work-

force in the manufacturing sector.

The stiff competition by the competitors in the global markets dented the

Pakistani textile sector, which became uncompetitive in its traditional markets

due to high tariff slabs on Pakistan’s textile goods in comparison to its com-

petitors like Bangladesh and Vietnam, which have greater market access by

enjoying preferential treatment in the European and American markets.

Furthermore, the major issues of high financing cost, power and gas shortage

coupled with their high charges domestically had devastating impact on tex-

tile goods when compared with China and India, which gave concessions and

incentives in the shape of subsidies on power and financing.

Cotton textile exports grew from $9.2 billion in 2004-05 to $10.4 billion

in 2006-07 and $10.5 billion in 2007-08, but in the last fiscal year exports of

textiles fell by 6% if compared to 2008-09 ($9.95) billion.

With the broad focus on framework of knowledge technology and value-

addition improvements, the Ministry of Textile is striving to achieve the

objectives of availability of high quality cotton, developing the entire textile

value chain at par with international best practices, expanding the textile

sector to produce value-added garments along with new innovative prod-

ucts, developing a state of the art infrastructure, augmenting investment in

human resource management and enlarging our textile and clothing export.

With the waiver of customs duty in the current trade policy, the import of

textile machinery and equipment would receive a boost and would help fur-

ther industrialize the country.

Importance of textile industry

According to the “ECONOMIST” intelligence report of August 2003 for

Pakistan the following observations have been made: Despite Government
efforts to diversify exports and widen the industrial base, the industrial sector
remains dominated by the Textile sector. Textile Sector still represents 46%
of total manufacturing and provides 68% of Pakistan’s Export receipts.
The strong performance stemmed from two factors :

a Increase in import quotas especially by U.S.A, EU and TURKEY

b Textile industry has invested over US$1.5 billions in new technologies and modernization
in the last 3 years.
Efficiency and the innovation in textile is the only hope to get the country out of economic
problems.

Present status of Pakistan

Textile engineering sector
The Pakistan Textile Engineering Sector is underdeveloped and under utilized. Mostly it
caters in the form of spares, components for modernization and machines used in cottage or
small scale industries.
A cursory look at the structure of Pakistan Textile Industry shows that most of them are
cottage industry, small/medium industrial units and few large integrated state of art units. The
number of units which fall under each category varies from sub-sector to sub-sector.
Similarly the Textile Engineering Units also vary from small, medium and large in size. The
Textile Engineering Industry comprises approximately 80% small work shops, 15% medium
engineering Units and 5% large Engineering Units. It will not be out place to mention that the
large engineering units are in Public Sector. The small and medium Engineering Units work
on reverse Engineering principles, only few work according to Engineering Drawings and
still fewer have Testing or Quality Control facilities.
On the basis of initial survey of Textile Engineering Units (Not complete yet), approximately
500 units are engaged all over Pakistan, employing approximately 50000 work force which is
mostly skilled. Even under the present conditions and without any support, Pakistan Textile
Engineering Industry is providing import substitution worth around one billion US dollars.
This sector also exports to small and medium Textile Units in Bangladesh, Iran, Sri Lanka,
etc.
The Textile Engineering Sector is throttled through taxes on raw material, import of
components, electronic and electrical parts.

Competition
The present Textile Engineering Industry is up against competition from smuggled, under
invoiced, and mis-declared components, parts and accessories. For example, in case of
second hand machinery, there is little or no check and the competition mainly rests on lower
price. Machines smuggled especially from China, India, Taiwan are not better in quality but
are selling cheaper. A bold initiative is needed which can boost the production as capacity
and markets are there, only change in environment is need.

Finishing look and control components

The products manufactured locally, when displayed against foreign goods - offer a poor look
– primarily because of the unsightly finishing of welding seams, electroplating, painting and
other surface treatments. In addition, the adoption of wrong design parameters, or the attempt
to reduce the cost of production, lead to the incorporation of under-sized electrical motors
and electric / electronic control panels.

Quality control
There are very few units which have their own material testing facilities, or have an access to
any such service from out side. Although reverse engineering is practiced, yet this copying is
done without adequate material testing. This results in poor quality or in many cases in an
undue over - engineering. A great stress on quality control is being laid by all the major
importing countries, especially in the wake of ISO 9000 series. There is, therefore, a need of
assisting the local textile engineering the relevant institutions, such as PSI, NPC, CTL, etc.

Assistance of present institutions

To encourage the local textile industry an access to the modern practices in the specialized
areas of manufacturing processes, productivity enhancement and quality control, an
institutional mechanism should be set up which provides the industry an adequate and
industry-friendly assistance from such organizations as MIRDC, PITAC, CTL

and PSI, etc. In addition such institutions as Pak-Swiss Training Centre and Pak-German
Training Centre, as well as the Small Scale Industrial Estates should be encouraged to
provide the industry necessary technical assistance and production aids such as tools, jigs,
fixtures, gauges, etc. for productivity improvement and quality control.

Employment opportunities
Keeping in view the linkage of the Engineering Sector to other sectors of economy, it can be
safely assumed that every one person employed in Engineering will add at least 2 more
persons in the over all economy. There is ample scope for qualified engineers in mechanical,
electric and electronics disciplines to boost this sector.

Need for training institutions

Diploma Level Courses on the pattern of Pak-Swiss Training Centre in Karachi should also
be opened in the Textile Institutions in Faisalabad and Karachi and more such courses should
be introduced in the Polytechnics in areas like Multan, Hyderabad, Lahore and Gujranwala.

Exhibitions
Most of these small workshops are shy or afraid of getting registered or displaying their
products, mainly from the fear of the revenue collection, labor controlling and other
government regulating agencies. This fear keeps them away from the mainstream Industry.
This also leads to the lack of interaction among the small scale, medium scale and higher
level industry for a purposeful vendor development.

National Exhibitions held annually can be very helpful in bringing out the skills, the range of
products and opportunities of group collaboration. It will help the planners and large scale
engineering industry in defining the way for developing skills in order to make this sector
strong and viable. This will culminate a Vendors List which can be recommended to foreign
suppliers interested in coming to this market and starting assembling / manufacturing on large
scale.

The interaction between the foreign textile manufacturing industry could also be enhanced by
facilitating the indigenous Textile Engineering Industry to participate in the specialized
Exhibitions and fairs being held in those countries.

Future opportunities
Our main competitors in primary textile products with the advantage of large engineering
sector in this region are China and India. The only country in this region without strong
engineering base is Pakistan and our dependence upon outside Engineering Industry keeps
our cost of production higher with low engineering skills.

Looking into the future a strong competition from China and India for this market
requirements can be used to involve them to start assembly plants under their guidance and
cooperation.
Some progress in the direction has led to the development of a Task Force in the Ministry of
Industries and Textile Engineering is growingly lucrative for investors, local and foreigners.

E-commerce Gateway MoU with Chinese Co.

The E-commerce Gateway has signed a memorandum of understanding (MOU) with a

Chinese company Global Enterprise Consulting to launch a business a match making' service
in Pakistan and China.

According to E-commerce Gateway Pakistan. "This service includes seeking of agents,

distributors, buyers, suppliers or joint venture partners in Pakistan or Middle east for Chinese
companies that intend to do business in these markets".

The service will include all kinds of facilitation required to help increase the Chinese exports
to the Middle East and South Asian markets.

A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often

referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibres, linen, cotton, or
other material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands.[1] Textiles are formed by weaving,
knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together (felt).

The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and
dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in
specialized usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to
any material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding. Cloth refers
to a finished piece of fabric that can be used for a purpose such as covering a bed.

Sunday textile market on the sidewalks of Karachi, Pakistan

History

Late antique textile, Egyptian, now in the Dumbarton Oaks collection

"Mrs. Condé Nast wearing one of the famous Fortuny tea gowns. This one has no tunic but is
finely pleated, in the Fortuny manner, and falls in long lines, closely following the figure, to
the floor"

The discovery of dyed flax fibres in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE
suggests textile-like materials were made even in prehistoric times.[2][3]

The production of textiles is a craft whose speed and scale of production has been altered
almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing
techniques. However, for the main types of textiles, plain weave, twill or satin weave, there is
little difference between the ancient and modern methods.

Incas have been crafting quipus (or khipus) made of fibres either from a protein, such as spun
and plied thread like wool or hair from camelids such as alpacas, llamas and camels or from a
cellulose like cotton for thousands of years. Khipus are a series of knots along pieces of
string. They have been believed to only have acted as a form of accounting, although new
evidence conducted by Harvard professor, Gary Urton, indicates there may be more to the
khipu than just numbers. Preservation of khipus found in museum and archive collections
follow general textile preservation principles and practice.

[edit] Uses
Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and
containers such as bags and baskets. In the household, they are used in carpeting, upholstered
furnishings, window shades, towels, covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in
art. In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering.
Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, cleaning devices such as
handkerchiefs and rags, transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes,
in addition to strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial
geotextiles. Children can learn using textiles to make collages, sew, quilt, and make toys.

Textiles used for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than their
appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile
structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g. implants), geotextiles
(reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective
clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for
welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests). In all these applications stringent
performance requirements must be met. Woven of threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires,
laboratory fabric has been shown capable of "self-powering nanosystems" using vibrations
created by everyday actions like wind or body movements.[4][5]

[edit] Fashion and textile designers

Fashion designers commonly rely on textile designs to set their fashion collections apart from
others. Armani, Marisol Deluna, Nicole Miller, Lilly Pulitzer, the late Gianni Versace and
Emilio Pucci can be easily recognized by their signature print driven designs.

[edit] Sources and types

Traditional Romanian table cloth, Maramureș

Textiles can be made from many materials. These materials come from four main sources:
animal (wool, silk), plant (cotton, flax, jute), mineral (asbestos, glass fiber), and synthetic
(nylon, polyester, acrylic). In the past, all textiles were made from natural fibres, including
plant, animal, and mineral sources. In the 20th century, these were supplemented by artificial
fibres made from petroleum.

Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest gossamer to
the sturdiest canvas. The relative thickness of fibres in cloth is measured in deniers.
Microfibre refers to fibres made of strands thinner than one denier.

[edit] Animal textiles

Animal textiles are commonly made from hair or fur.

Wool refers to the hair of the domestic goat or sheep, which is distinguished from other types
of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped, and
the wool as a whole is coated with a wax mixture known as lanolin (aka wool grease), which
is waterproof and dirtproof[citation needed]. Woollen refers to a bulkier yarn produced from carded,
non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn which is spun from longer fibres which
have been combed to be parallel. Wool is commonly used for warm clothing. Cashmere, the
hair of the Indian cashmere goat, and mohair, the hair of the North African angora goat, are
types of wool known for their softness.

Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are alpaca wool, vicuña wool, llama
wool, and camel hair, generally used in the production of coats, jackets, ponchos, blankets,
and other warm coverings. Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the angora rabbit.

Wadmal is a coarse cloth made of wool, produced in Scandinavia, mostly 1000~1500CE.

Silk is an animal textile made from the fibres of the cocoon of the Chinese silkworm. This is
spun into a smooth, shiny fabric prized for its sleek texture.

[edit] Plant textiles

Grass, rush, hemp, and sisal are all used in making rope. In the first two, the entire plant is
used for this purpose, while in the last two, only fibres from the plant are utilized. Coir
(coconut fibre) is used in making twine, and also in floormats, doormats, brushes, mattresses,
floor tiles, and sacking.

Straw and bamboo are both used to make hats. Straw, a dried form of grass, is also used for
stuffing, as is kapok.

Fibres from pulpwood trees, cotton, rice, hemp, and nettle are used in making paper.

Cotton, flax, jute, hemp, modal and even bamboo fibre are all used in clothing. Piña
(pineapple fibre) and ramie are also fibres used in clothing, generally with a blend of other
fibres such as cotton.

Acetate is used to increase the shininess of certain fabrics such as silks, velvets, and taffetas.

Seaweed is used in the production of textiles. A water-soluble fibre known as alginate is

produced and is used as a holding fibre; when the cloth is finished, the alginate is dissolved,
leaving an open area

Lyocell is a man-made fabric derived from wood pulp. It is often described as a man-made
silk equivalent and is a tough fabric which is often blended with other fabrics - cotton for
example.

[edit] Mineral textiles

Asbestos and basalt fibre are used for vinyl tiles, sheeting, and adhesives, "transite" panels
and siding, acoustical ceilings, stage curtains, and fire blankets.
Glass Fibre is used in the production of spacesuits, ironing board and mattress covers, ropes
and cables, reinforcement fibre for composite materials, insect netting, flame-retardant and
protective fabric, soundproof, fireproof, and insulating fibres.

Metal fibre, metal foil, and metal wire have a variety of uses, including the production of
cloth-of-gold and jewelry. Hardware cloth is a coarse weave of steel wire, used in
construction.

[edit] Synthetic textiles

A variety of contemporary fabrics. From the left: evenweave cotton, velvet, printed cotton,
calico, felt, satin, silk, hessian, polycotton.

All synthetic textiles are used primarily in the production of clothing.

Polyester fibre is used in all types of clothing, either alone or blended with fibres such as
cotton.

Aramid fibre (e.g. Twaron) is used for flame-retardant clothing, cut-protection, and armor.

Acrylic is a fibre used to imitate wools, including cashmere, and is often used in replacement
of them.

Nylon is a fibre used to imitate silk; it is used in the production of pantyhose. Thicker nylon
fibres are used in rope and outdoor clothing.

Spandex (trade name Lycra) is a polyurethane product that can be made tight-fitting without
impeding movement. It is used to make activewear, bras, and swimsuits.

Olefin fibre is a fibre used in activewear, linings, and warm clothing. Olefins are
hydrophobic, allowing them to dry quickly. A sintered felt of olefin fibres is sold under the
trade name Tyvek.

Ingeo is a polylactide fibre blended with other fibres such as cotton and used in clothing. It is
more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.

Lurex is a metallic fibre used in clothing embellishment.

Milk proteins can also be used to create synthetic fabric. Milk or casein fibre cloth was
developed during World War I in Germany, and further developed in Italy and America
during the 1930s.[6] Milk fibre fabric is not very durable and wrinkles easily, but has a pH
similar to human skin and possesses anti-bacterial properties. It is marketed as a
biodegradable, renewable synthetic fibre.[7]

[edit] Production methods

Main article: textile manufacturing

Brilliantly dyed traditional woven textiles of Guatemala, and woman weaving on a backstrap
loom.

Weaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer threads
(called the warp) with a set of crossing threads (called the weft). This is done on a frame or
machine known as a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done
by hand, but the vast majority is mechanised.

Knitting and crocheting involve interlacing loops of yarn, which are formed either on a
knitting needle or on a crochet hook, together in a line. The two processes are different in that
knitting has several active loops at one time, on the knitting needle waiting to interlock with
another loop, while crocheting never has more than one active loop on the needle.

Spread Tow is a production method where the yarn are spread into thin tapes, and then the
tapes are weaved as warp and weft. This method is mostly used for composite materials,
Spread Tow Fabrics can be made in carbon, aramide, etc.

Braiding or plaiting involves twisting threads together into cloth. Knotting involves tying
threads together and is used in making macrame.

Lace is made by interlocking threads together independently, using a backing and any of the
methods described above, to create a fine fabric with open holes in the work. Lace can be
made by either hand or machine.

Carpets, rugs, velvet, velour, and velveteen, are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through
woven cloth, creating a tufted layer known as a nap or pile.
Felting involves pressing a mat of fibres together, and working them together until they
become tangled. A liquid, such as soapy water, is usually added to lubricate the fibres, and to
open up the microscopic scales on strands of wool.

Nonwoven textiles are manufactured by the bonding of fibres to make fabric. Bonding may
be thermal, mechnical or adhessives can be used.

[edit] Treatments

Woven tartan of Clan Campbell, Scotland.

Embroidered skirts by the Alfaro-Nùñez family of Cochas, Peru, using traditional Peruvian
embroidery methods.[8]

Textiles are often dyed, with fabrics available in almost every colour. The dying process
often requires several dozen gallons of water for each pound of clothing.[9] Coloured designs
in textiles can be created by weaving together fibres of different colours (tartan or Uzbek
Ikat), adding coloured stitches to finished fabric (embroidery), creating patterns by resist
dyeing methods, tying off areas of cloth and dyeing the rest (tie-dyeing), or drawing wax
designs on cloth and dyeing in between them (batik), or using various printing processes on
finished fabric. Woodblock printing, still used in India and elsewhere today, is the oldest of
these dating back to at least 220CE in China. Textiles are also sometimes bleached, making
the textile pale or white.

Textiles are sometimes finished by chemical processes to change their characteristics. In the
19th century and early 20th century starching was commonly used to make clothing more
resistant to stains and wrinkles. Since the 1990s, with advances in technologies such as
permanent press process, finishing agents have been used to strengthen fabrics and make
them wrinkle free.[1] More recently, nanomaterials research has led to additional
advancements, with companies such as Nano-Tex and NanoHorizons developing permanent
treatments based on metallic nanoparticles for making textiles more resistant to things such as
water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi.[10]
More so today than ever before, textiles receive a range of treatments before they reach the
end-user. From formaldehyde finishes (to improve crease-resistance) to biocidic finishes and
from flame retardants to dyeing of many types of fabric, the possibilities are almost endless.
However, many of these finishes may also have detrimental effects on the end user. A
number of disperse, acid and reactive dyes (for example) have been shown to be allergenic to
sensitive individuals [11]. Further to this, specific dyes within this group have also been shown
to induce purpuric contact dermatitis [12]. Although formaldehyde levels in clothing are
unlikely to be at levels high enough to cause an allergic reaction [13], due to the presence of
such a chemical, quality control and testing are of utmost importance. Flame retardants
(mainly in the brominated form) are also of concern where the environment, and their
potential toxicity, are concerned [14]. Testing for these additives is possible at a number of
commercial laboratories, it is also possible to have textiles tested for according to the Oeko-
tex Certification Standard which contains limits levels for the use of certain chemicals in
textiles products.

Introduction :

Introduction The textile industry is one of the most important sectors of Pakistan. It
contributes significantly to the country’s 8.5% GDP, exports as well employment. It is, in
fact, the backbone of the Pakistani economy.

Contribution to exports :

Contribution to exports According to recent figures, the Pakistan textile industry contributes
more than 60% to the country total exports, which amounts to around 5.2 billion US dollars.
The industry contributes around 46% to the total output produced in the country. In Asia,
Pakistan is the 8th largest exporter of textile products.

Contribution to GDP and employment :

Contribution to GDP and employment The contribution of this industry to the total GDP is
8.5%. It provides employment to 38% of the work force in the country, which amounts to a
figure of 15 million. However, the proportion of skilled labor is very less as compared to that
of unskilled labor.

Sectors of Textile Industry :

Sectors of Textile Industry These are the main sectors of Textile Industry: Spinning Weaving
Finishing Dyeing Printing Pressing Fashion designing
Spinning :

Spinning Spinning is the process of converting fibers into yarn. The fibers may be natural
fibers such as cotton or manmade fibers such as polyester. Sometimes, the term spinning is
also used for production of manmade filament yarn. Manmade Filament Yarn: “yarn that is
not made from fibers”.

Weaving :

Weaving “Weaving is the process of making cloth, rugs, blankets, and other products by
crossing two sets of threads over and under each other”. Weaving sector is one of the most
important textile sub-sectors. The exports of woven fabrics and other related woven made-
ups form a major portion of textile exports from Pakistan.

Finishing :

Finishing Cloth finishing is one of the chief arts in the textile industry. The appearance of the
goods is often of first concern, and the appearance of any fabric is largely due to the methods
of finishing.

Dyeing :

Dyeing Dyeing clothing and other material is a fairly simple process. It doesn't take a lot of
work and the amount of work it takes often depends on what type of dye you purchase.

Printing :

Printing Printing is some thing through which cloths are printed with different designing and
prints.

Pressing :

Pressing Pressing is to press the cloths.

Fashion Designing :

Fashion Designing Fashion design is the applied art dedicated to clothing and lifestyle
accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time.

Challenges to Textile Industry :Challenges to Textile Industry The Pakistan textile

industry is currently facing several challenges. Need for the industry to improve the quality of
its products. Need for greater value addition in its products. Need to undertake an up
gradation in the technology used. Cost of power of competitors.
Problems of textile industry :

Problems of textile industry The largest problem that the industry faces today is the Sales tax.
Customs Duty Taxes. Load shedding of electricity. Interference of government in industry.

Introduction & Importance of Quality Control

 

Twisting cotton fiber and crossing the threads with threads to cloth man with cloth is a story
of many thousand years.

With basic unchanged concepts of Spinning and Weaving there has been extensive
introduction of new techniques resulting in the refinement to the development of a world-
wide industry involved in the process of transforming fibers into yarns and cloths.

Over the past 150 years the apparel business evolved from assembling of individual hand-
sewn garments to the mechanized mass production and distribution of “ready-to-wear” in the
world market. For many apparel business real growth in sales volume and profits is difficult
to achieve. Intensified foreign and domestic competition increase of production,
transportation cost and changing consumer demographics and life styles all stand in the way
of profitable growth.

The business is immensely effected by

Fashion Changes

Seasonal Changes

As a general rule the people are always hunting for different variations of products which
lead to rapid changes in fashion, seasonal change depends upon numerous factors such as
weather, traditional festivals, school sessions, holidays etc. The apparel businesses have
intensive interactions with these changes.

 
By looking at the current increasing trend of apparel industry a team of energetic and young
professionals who can possess extensive experience in apparel manufacturing should be
managed by any company.

The relevant departmental structures to ensure grass-root level of Quality Controls are
necessary to run smooth flow of production for competition.

A commitment towards satisfactory work can play a vital role in any business. In order to
achieve the desired result of customer a good Quality Control system is a base rule.   

Strict Quality Control is the most sensitive and responsible areas of a factory which gives key
to the success of any business.

The realistic approach in the apparel industry is that our products and services can be
designed for quality as well as produced for Quality. So that is why a professional Quality
Control and operational techniques are essential to meet the desirable quality requirement of
the buyers.

A Brief History of Quality Control

 

Human beings are frequently described in terms of their inherent characteristics. For example,
we often describe ourselves as “political animals, “thinking trees,” or “monkeys that walk on
their hind legs.” Another way we have of describing ourselves is “tool-using animals.”

The material from which humans made their tools progressed through the ages from stone to
bronze to iron. There are various theories as to the origin of humankind, but the most reliable
one at present seems to be that humans able to us, stone-chopping tools emerged in Africa
approximately 1.7 million years ago, Even as long ago as this, our ancestors would certainly
gave had strong interest in quality, at least as far as the tools they used were concerned. A
cracked earthenware pot would be useless for storing or transporting water, while arrows
fitted with arrowheads of excellent quality would have flown straighter and farther, leading to
greater success in the hunt. Autumn harvests would probably have been increased by plowing
the fields deeper with sharper hoes and plowshares. We have learned such things through long
years of experience since our first appearance on the earth.

People stopped being hunter-gatherers and began to produce their own food approximately
10,000 years ago. They also brought their extended history of complete self-sufficiency to a
close around this time and began trading with one another. Bartering was the first form of
trade, and at first it probably took place only over short distances. The distances over which
business was conducted increased as various means of transportation were developed and
money eventually appeared as a convenient means of carrying on trade. Since the concept of
cost certainly would not have arisen before the appearance of money, this concept probably
has a history of 10,000 years at most.

 Concern for product quality and the process control

 

Concern for product quality and process control is nothing new. Historians have traced the
concept as far back as 3000 B.C. in Babylonia. Among the references to quality from the
Code of Hammurabi, ruler of Babylonia Is the following excerpt: “The mason who builds a
house which falls down and kills the inmate shall be put to death.” This law reflects a concern
for quality in antiquity. Process control is a concept that may have begun with the pyramids
of Egypt, when a system of standards for quarrying and dressing of stone was designed. One
has only to examine the pyramids at Cheops to appreciate this Remarkable achievement.
Later, Greek architecture would surpass Egyptian architecture in the area of military
applications. Centuries later, the shipbuilding operation in Venice introduced rudimentary
production control and standardization.

Following the Industrial Revolution and the resulting factory system, quality and process
control began to take on some of the characteristics that we know today. Specialization of
labor in the factory demanded it. Interchangeability of parts was introduced by Eli Whitney
when he manufactured 15,000 muskets for the federal government. This event was
representative of the emerging era of mass production, when inspection by a skilled
craftsman at a workbench was replaced by the specialized function of inspection conducted
by individuals not directly involved in the production process. When mass production first
began, propelled by, James Watt’s improvements to the steam engine. The Taylor System
generally regarded as a highly productive manufacturing system was introduced by the Ford
Motor company in 1903.

Specialization of labor and quality assurance took a giant step forward in 1911 with the
publication of Frederick W. Taylor’s book Principles of Scientific Management. This
pioneering work had a profound effect on management thought and practice .Taylor’s
philosophy was one of extreme functional specialization and he suggested eight functional
bosses for the ship floor, one of whom was assigned the task of inspection.

The inspector is responsible for the quality of the work,  and both the workmen and the speed
bosses [who see that the proper cutting tools are used, that  the work is properly driven, and
that cuts are started in the right part of the piece] must see that  the worked is finished to suit
him. This man can, of course, do his work best if he is a master of the art of finishing work
both well and quickly.

Taylor later conceded that extreme functional specialization has its disadvantages, but his
notion of process analysis and quality control by inspection of the final product still lives on
in many firms today. Statistical quality control (SQC), the forerunner of today’s TQM or total
quality control, had its beginnings in the mid-1920s at the Western Electric plant of the Bell
System. Walter Shewhart, a Bell Laboratories physicist, designed the original version of SQC
for the zero defects mass production of complex telephone exchanges and telephone sets. In
1931 Shewhart published his landmark book Economic Control of Quality of Manufactured
Product. This book provided a precise and measurable definition of quality control an
developed statistical techniques for evaluating production and improving quality. During
World War II, W. Edwards Deming and Joseph Juran, both former members of Shewhart’s
group, separately developed the versions used today. 

It is generally accepted today that the Japanese owe their product leadership partly to
adopting the precepts of Deming and Juran. According to Peter Drucker, U.S. industry
ignored their contributions for 40 years and is only now converting to SQC.

The Willimatic Division of Rogers Corporation, an IBM supplier, uses just-in-time

techniques along with X-bar and R Charts for key product attributes to achieve statistical
process control. Rework is reduced by 40 percent, scrap by 50 percent, and productivity is
increased by 14 percent.

Share of Pakistan Production In World’s Production

 

Those born on this land of pure and simple are verbally aware of the fact that textile Industry
forms backbone of our economy but the fact has never been exposed to natives. The textile
Industry has landed into a juncture where there may not be greater but reasonable
opportunities to rejuvenate. We must realize that innovation is the prestigious offspring of the
realization and understanding of possibilities. The recorded estimation proves that Pakistan
produce approximately 10.7% of the total world’s production and provides clothing to 61.0%
million people.

Addition In Foreign Buyers

 

To this date Pakistan textile industry attracts numerous foreign buyers and has added a lot in
country’s export scale but now we are entering a new era of high-tech textile, today’s textile
no more resembles to the textile of the past, it is now more an industry of advancement and
the apparel demands of people have also been revolutionized.
Ability To Increase The Textile Units
 

Our media highlights the cotton crises, the fall of our textile industry, its unpredictable image
in world trade market but we cannot deviate from the usual natural phenomena only because
of the unusual. The usual strengthens our ambitions, modifies our approach and paves the
way out with much more dynamic, responsible, pragmatic and stronger market presence in
world trade market. The usual being our textile instinct inherited from the last more than 4
decades. The nation which possessed the ability to multiply 6 textile units from 1947 to more
than 100 successful units with export orientation themes has still the capacity to prove their
worth in the future in many ways than it has ever been.

Products:
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Application
Fiber Spinning
Spinning is the twisting together of fibers to form yarn (or thread, rope, or cable).
Earlier fiber was spun by hand using simple tools like spindle and distaff. Later the
use of spinning wheel gained importance. Industrial spinning started in the 18th
century with the beginning of the Industrial Revolution. Hand-spinning remains a
popular handicraft.

Industrial spinning
Fibers can not be used to make clothes in their raw form. For this purpose, they must be converted
into yarns. The process used for yarn formation is spinning. Spinning by hand was a slow and
laborious process. Thus, Many implements and methods were invented for making it faster and
simple. Eventually, the techniques were refined and industrial spinning started manufacturing yarn
in various ways. The methods selected depend upon the factors such as the manufacturer's
preference of equipment, the economic implications, the fibers to be used and the desired
properties of yarn to be produced. Ring method is the oldest and the most used technique. Open-
end spinning is another important method. The basic manufacturing process of spinning includes
carding, combing, drafting, twisting and winding. As the fibers pass through these processes, they
are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and finally yarn. A brief description of the journey
from fibers to yarns will help in understanding industrial spinning in a better way.

The raw fiber arrives at a spinning mill as compressed mass which goes through
the processes of blending, opening and cleaning. Blending is done to obtain
uniformity of fiber quality. Opening is done to loosen the hard lumps of fiber and
disentangle them. Cleaning is required to remove the trash such as dirt, leaves,
burrs and any remaining seeds. Carding is the initial straightening process which
puts the fiber into a parallel lengthwise alignment. This makes the tangled mass of fiber ready to
produce yarn. Now the fiber is called 'Lap' . The lap is treated for removing the remaining trash,
disentangling and molding it into a round rope like mass called 'Sliver'. The sliver is then straighten
again which is called Combing. In it, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they
are arranged in such a parallel manner that the short fibers are completely separated from the
longer fibers. This procedure is not required for man made staple fiber because they are cut into
predetermined uniform lengths. This process forms a 'comb sliver' made of the longest fibers. The
combing process is identified with better quality because long staple yarn produces stronger,
smoother and more serviceable fabrics.

Drawing pulls the staple lengthwise over each other. As a result longer and thinner slivers are
produced. After several stages of drawing out, the sliver is passed to the spindles where it is given its
first twist and is then wound on bobbins. 'Roving' is the final product of the several drawing-out
operations. It is the preparatory stage for the final insertion of twist. Till now, enough twist is given
for holding the fibers together but it has no tensile strength. It can break apart easily with a slight
pull. The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through several sets of
rollers running at high speed and finally the 'Yarn' is produced of the sizes desired.

Spinning Machines Traditional v/s Modern Techniques

Hand spinning was replaced by powered spinning machines which was very fast. Initially it was done
by water or steam power and then by electricity. The spinning jenny, a multi-spool spinning wheel
significantly reduced the amount of work required to produce yarn. A single worker was now able to
work eight or more spools at a time.

Then came the spinning frame which produced a stronger thread than the
spinning jenny. As it was too large to be operated by hand, a spinning frame
powered by a waterwheel was invented. It was then called the water frame. The
elements of the spinning jenny and water frame were combined to create the
spinning mule.

Then came the spinning frame which produced a stronger thread than the spinning jenny. As it was
too large to be operated by hand, a spinning frame powered by a waterwheel was invented. It was
then called the water frame. The elements of the spinning jenny and water frame were combined to
create the spinning mule.

Weaving

Weaving is the most basic process in which two different sets of yarns or threads
are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. One of these sets is called
warp which is the lengthwise yarn running from the back to the front of the loom.
The other set of crosswise yarns are the filling which are called the weft or the
woof.

Preparing Warps and Wefts for Weaving

The warps form the basic structure of fabrics. As such, they are made to pass
through many operations before actual weaving is done. These operations include
spooling, warping and slashing. In spooling, the yarn is wound on larger spools, or
cones, that are placed on a rack known as creel. From the creel, the yarns are
wound on a warp beam, which looks like a huge spool. These lengths of hundreds
of warped yarns lie parallel to one another. These yarns are unwound for slashing,
or sizing. The yarn is coated with sizing with the help of slasher machine. Slashing prevents chafing
or breaking of yarns during weaving process. Sizing is either starch based or a synthetic like polyvinyl
alcohol or a water soluble acrylic polymers. The sized yarns are then wound on a final warp beam
and are ready for the loom.

The filling yarns experience less strain during the weaving process. Their preparation includes
spinning them to the required size and giving them just the right amount of twist desired for the kind
of fabric they will be used.

Basic Weaving Operations

No matter what type of weaving is being done, four major operations are performed in sequence
and are continuously repeated.
Shedding
In shedding, alternate warp yarns are raised to insert the filling yarn into the warp
to form a shed. Shedding is automatically performed by the harness on the
modern weaving looms. Harness is a rectangular frame to which a series of wires,
called heddles, are attached. As each warp yarn comes from the warp beam, it
passes through an opening in the heddle. The operation of drawing each warp
yarn through its appropriate heddle eye is known as drawing in.

Picking
As the warp yarns are raised through shedding, the weft yarn is inserted through the shed by a
carrier device. A single crossing of the filling from one side of the loom to the other is called a pick.
Different methods are used for carrying the filling yarn through the shed in different kinds of looms.
There are many types of looms including shuttle loom, shuttle less loom, and circular loom.

Shuttle Loom: The shuttle loom is the oldest type of weaving loom which uses a
shuttle which contains a bobbin of filling yarn that appears through a hole situated
in the side. The shuttle is batted across the loom and during this process, it leaves
a trail of the filling at the rate of about 110 to 225 picks per minute (ppm).
Although very effective and versatile, the shuttle looms are slow and noisy. Also
the shuttle sometimes leads to abrasion on the warp yarns and at other times
causes thread breaks. As a result the machine has to be stopped for tying the broken yarns.

Shuttle less loom: Many kinds of shuttle less looms are used for weaving such as Projectile Looms;
Rapier Looms; Water Jet Looms; and Air Jet Looms.

Projectile Loom: It is sometimes called missile loom as the picking action is done by a series of small
bullet like projectiles which hold the weft yarn and carry it through the shed and then return empty.
All the filling yarns are inserted from the same side of the loom. A special tucking device holds the
ends of the wefts in place at the edge of the cloth to form the selvage. This loom needs smooth,
uniform yarn which is properly sized in order to reduce friction. Projectile loom can produce up to
300 ppm and is less noisier then the shuttle loom.

Rapier Loom: Rapier loom comes in many types. Early models of it use one long
rapier device that travels along the width of the loom to carry the weft from one
side to the other. Another type of rapier loom has two rapiers, one on each side of
the loom. They may be rigid, flexible or telescopic. One rapier feeds the weft
halfway through the sheds of warp yarns to the arm on the other side, which
reaches in and carries it across the rest of the way. Rapier looms are very efficient
and their speed ranges from 200 to 260 ppm. These looms can manufacture a variety of fabrics
ranging from muslin fabric to drapery fabrics and even upholstery fabrics.

Water Jet Loom: In it, a pre measured length of weft yarn is carried across the loom by a jet of
water. These looms are very fast with speeds up to 600 ppm and very low noise. Also they don't
place much tension on the filling yarn. As the pick is tension less, very high quality of warp yarns are
needed for efficient operation. Also, only yarns that are not readily absorbent can be used to make
fabrics on water jet looms such as filament yarn of acetate, nylon, polyester, and glass. However, it
can produce very high quality fabrics having great appearance and feel.

Air Jet Looms: In the air jet weaving looms, a jet of air is used to propel the weft yarn through the
shed at speeds of up to 600 ppm. Uniform weft yarns are needed to make fabrics on this loom. Also
heavier yarns are suitable for air jet looms as the lighter fabrics are very difficult to control through
shed. However, too heavy yarns also can't be carried across the loom by air jet. In spite of these
limitations, air jet loom can produce a wide variety of fabrics.

Circular Looms: These looms are particularly used for making tubular fabrics rather
than flat fabrics. A shuttle device in it circulates the weft in a shed formed around
the machine. A circular loom is primarily used for bagging material.

Beating Up
This weaving operation is also called battening. In it, all warp yarns pass through
the heddle eyelets and through openings in another frame that looks like a comb
and is known as reed. With each picking operation, the reed pushes or beats each
weft yarn against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed. It results
in a firm and compact fabric construction.

Taking Up and Letting Off

As the shedding, picking and battening processes are being operated, the new
fabric is wound on the cloth beam. This is known as 'taking up'. At the same time,
the warp yarns are released from the warp beam which is known as 'letting off'.

The pattern of the weave depends on the manner in which groups of warped yarns are raised by the
harnesses to allow the insertion of the weft yarn. These differences are responsible for producing
different types of fabric weaves. Weave patterns can create various degrees of durability in fabrics
apart from their utility and looks.

Cotton Fabric

Cotton fiber undergoes several process to reach the stage of final cloth. The processes are as
mentioned below:

Ginning
Ginning is the method of separating the cotton fibers from the seedpods, and sometimes with
the sticky seeds. This is done in the cotton field with the help of machines.

Spinning
Spinning is the succeeding step to ginning. This process involves the making of yarn from the
cotton fiber. The cotton yarns are made of different thickness in this stage.

Weaving
Weaving is the most important process in the making of cotton cloth. In this process, two
yarn is placed to make warp and weft of a loom which successively turn them into a cloth.

Fabric finishes and treatments

After weaving the cotton fabric passes through different processing stages till it reaches to the
state of final product. The stages are mentioned below, but it is not necessary for the fabric to
undergo all the process for e.g. grain bags cloth are used unbleached.

 Singeing - This process burns off the fibers sticking in the goods.
 Desizing - This process involves removing the size material from warp yarns in
woven fabrics.
 Scouring - The cleaning part of the fabrics are involved in this process.
 Bleaching - The fabrics are bleached here to make it more whiter and lighter.
 Mercerizing - In this process, the fabric is immersed in alkali to make it more strong,
shining, durable, shrink free and stretch free.
 Dyeing - This process involves the changing of the fabric color by the treatment with
a dye.

Finishing - In this process, the fabric is treated with some chemicals or other useful agents to
make it qualitatively more better, for e.g. cotton is made sun protected by treating it with UV
protecting agent.

Leather Fabric

Pre-tanning

 Animal skin is cleaned and salted to prevent decay.

 The hide or pelt then is sent to tannery for trimming and sorting.
 Next, it is soaked in water to restore moisture content, which is lost during salting
process.
 It is treated mechanically with rollers and blades to remove fat/muscle and flesh
(Fleshing).
 During liming the skin is soaked in lime solution to remove the hair, inter-fibrillary
protein and epidermis.
 In De-liming the hide or pelt is washed in water containing ammonium chloride or
ammonium sulphate to neutralise it.
 Bating involves treating the leather with digestive enzymes to remove non-fibrous
protein.
 Scudding is done with a blunt knife to remove remaining hair roots, skin
pigmentation, and surface fats.
 Lastly, it is put in sulphuric acid to lower the pH.

Tanning

Tanning is the process where the leather gets the necessary feel and physical characteristics.
In this process, the collagen, an insoluble fibrous protein, which carries the major property of
the hide or pelt gets less susceptible to decay and are kept flexible. This is done by removing
the water molecules from the gap of protein molecules and replacing it with chemicals that
retain flexibility.
The main tanning processes are mineral/chrome tanning, vegetable tanning and oil tanning.

 Mineral/chrome tanning is the most common and modern method, which uses
chromium salts. This makes leather water proof and stretchable.
 Vegetable tanning, or bark tanning is the process where the hide is soaked in a
solution of bark of oak/chestnut which is chopped or boiled. The leather becomes
moldable and can be tooled. Moreover when dry, the leather will not stretch.
 Oil tanning is a process where fish and animal oil is used. The leather becomes very
soft and flexible. It cope up with wetted condition without causing damage to the
leather. Chamois leather is best example of oil tanning.

Lubricating, Dyeing and Finishing

After tanning, the leather undergoes different processes according to the use of the final
product.

 Vegetable-tanned leather which are used for shoe soles is bleached, lubricated and
then run through rolling machines to make it firm and glossy.
 Chrome-tanned leather, for shoe uppers, is split and shaved and then placed in a
rotating drum for the dyeing process using several types of coloring materials to give
color fastness and durability.
 Before or after dyeing, it is rolled in a fat liquor containing emulsified oils and
greases. Next, the leather is pasted on glass or ceramic frames and then passed
through drying tunnels with controlled heat and humidity.

In the finishing process, the leather is coated with grain surface which contains finishing
compound. This is brushed under a revolving brush-covered cylinder. For smooth finish, the
leather is treated with a mixture of waxes, shellac or emulsified synthetic resins, dyes, and
pigments (to avoid painted look). Glazing is done to achieve polished surface.

Silk Fabric

From Cocoon to Yarn

Silk from cultivated silkworms is more used though silk of wild worms is also valuable. The
worms feed on mulberry leaves and increases their body size by nearly 10,000 times in a
short span of time. The worm ceases to eat by the end of thirty days and attach itself to a
piece of straw and begins to spin its cocoon. After the spinning of cocoon and before the
hatching of the worm into a moth, the cocoon is soaked in hot water unraveling and
producing long size thread. This fine thread is the basic component of silk yarn and fabric.

Washing and bleaching of the silk threads

The natural fiber extracted from the silkworm holds some glutinous substance (gummy
substance or glue) which is removed by washing and bleaching.

Weaving
Weaving is a process where the fabric is created by interlacing the warp yarns and the weft
yarns. It is either done by machines or hand. Hand woven fabric is better than the machine
woven. It can make delicate designs with different colored thread. Modern machines use
lances, projectiles, a jet of compressed air to shoot the weft-yarn between the warp-yarns. It
leads to greater yield and productivity.

A good quality of silk begins with a warp of approximately 2,000 threads for one meter
width. 1,600 threads or 1,800 threads are considered to be poor quality fabric. Loosely woven
fabrics are difficult to sew.

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

There are two main types of silk fabrics. One which is yarn-dyed or dyed-woven, like taffeta,
duchess satin and many pattern-woven fabrics. The other type is piece-dyed fabrics, which is
carried out after weaving, like crepes, twills, etc. The dyeing process gives the silk different
shades.

Printing is giving pattern to the fabric. It is either done by block-printing method, roller-
printing method or screen printing. Screen printing is widely used in silk fabrics.

Embroidery process gives embellishment and the perfect finish to the fabric to make it look
more beautiful.

All fabrics has to be finished. It is here the fabric gets the desired appearance and feel.
Finishing process is either physical or chemical. It give treatments like crease-proofing,
water-proofing, fire-proofing, etc.

Final soaking in a chemical solution

This process helps to preserve the sheen and luster of the silk fabric. It adds weight and
makes the fabric soft, smooth, easy to iron and wrinkle resistant.

THE PROCESS OF MAKING COTTON CLOTH

Based on a flow diagram contained in the book Job Descriptions for the Cotton Textile Industry, June
1939, United States Government Printing Office, Washington. In some steps of the flow diagram, both
an "old style" and "new style" process is discussed. Only the old style steps are included below since
they would have been used in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

The manufacture of cotton cloth is a complex process, involving many highly skilled workers, each
performing a particular critical step in the overall process. The many complex steps can be divided
into three general categories - Preparation, Spinning, and Weaving. In addition to this, there is the
process of preparing the design that will be applied to the woven cloth. Cotton cloth manufacturing
was indeed a "high-tech" venture in the 1880s!

PREPARATION
1. Bales of cotton of various grades are moved from the WAREHOUSE to the BALE OPENING room.

2. Selected bales are opened and placed in position beside the BREAKING and OPENING machine.
This is actually a line of machines, working as a unit, that tear apart and partially clean matted,
compressed, and baled cotton. The result is small loose bunches of cotton.

3. The cotton is then placed into the BLENDING MACHINE. This is a group of devices that are
synchronized to proportion definite amounts of various grades of cotton which are to be blended
together.

4. At this time, matted cotton and waste yarn salvaged from operations in the mill are placed into the
WASTE MACHINE. This machine beats, pulls apart, and fluffs up waste cotton to prepare it for re-
use.

5. Cotton from both the BLENDING MACHINE and the WASTE MACHINE is fed into the BREAKER
PICKER. In this unit the raw cotton is partially cleaned by beating and fluffing and then fed into the
FINISHER PICKER.

6. The FINISHER PICKER receives partially cleaned cotton in the form of LAP from the BREAKER
PICKER and completes the cleaning and fluffing process. LAP is a general term used to designate
wide sheets of loosely matted cotton.

7. The cotton is next processed by a CARDING MACHINE, where dirt and short fibers are removed,
other fibers are laid parallel and formed into a ropelike strand called a SLIVER. The SLIVER is
deposited in large cylindrical containers called CANS.

8. Subsequent processing depends on whether better grade (combed) yarn, or lower grade (carded)
yarn is desired. For the lower grade, processig continues at the DRAWING FRAME (see step 12
below)

9. For better grade yarn, the SLIVER is first processed by the SLIVER LAPPING MACHINE, which
draws and combines several strands of SLIVER into a sheet of LAP and winds it on a spool ready for
RIBBON LAPPING or COMBING.

10. The LAP is processed by a RIBBON LAPPING MACHINE which draws and combines several rolls
of LAP into one roll of RIBBON LAP, straightening the fibers slightly and making the lap more uniform
in weight and texture, ready for feeding to a COMBING MACHINE. RIBBON LAP is a roll of closely
matted cotton fibers, about 10 inches wide.

11. COMBING is the process of extracting fibers below a predetermined length and removing any
remaining dirt. Output of the COMBING MACHINE is deposited in CANS.

12. The cotton is next processed by the DRAWING FRAME. It is a machine in which several strands
of SLIVER are combined into one strand and DRAWN OUT so that the combined strands
approximate the weight and size of any one of the original strands. The term DRAWN OUT means to
stretch a strand of cotton, usually by running the strand between several pairs of rollers, each pair
turning faster than the pair before it.

13. The SLUBBING MACHINE then draws out strands of SLIVER and twists them together loosely in
order to give the strands (now called ROVING) sufficient strength to withstand subsequent operations.

14. The ROVING is processed by the FLY FRAME. This machine progressively combines two strands
of partially processed ROVING into one, draws out the combined strands until they are of prescribed
weight, and twists them loosely in order to give them sufficient strength to withstand subsequent
operations.

 
SPINNING

1. The cotton is now ready for SPINNING. Spinning is the process of making YARN from cotton fibers
by drawing out and twisting the fibers into a thin strand. That is, one or more strands of slightly twisted
ROVING are used to produce one strand of spun YARN. The yarn is wound on bobbins.

2. The next step is to produce either WARP or FILLING. WARP is the set of yarn strands which run
lengthwise in a piece of cloth. FILLING, also called WOOF and WELT, is the yarn which is interlaced
through the WARP to produce cloth.

Making FILLING:

a. FILLING may be single-ply or multiple-ply. For multiple-ply, steps (a) and (b) for making WARP
below are completed before the yarn is conditioned. For single-ply, the yarn is immediatly conditioned
after spinning. Conditioning is the act of exposing bobbins of FILLING YARN to steam or to a spray of
conditioning solution in order to set the twist, to remove kinks from the yarn, and to prevent its kinking
in subsequent processes.

Making WARP:

a. The DOUBLING MACHINE winds two or more strands of yarn onto one PACKAGE without twisting
them. PACKAGE is simply a general term for any wound arrangement of YARN.

b. The yarn is then TWISTED. The TWISTING MACHINE twists two or more strands of spun yarn into
a heavier, stronger, single strand. This process may be repeated until the desired number of plys is
produced.

c. The WINDING MACHINE winds yarn from several bobbins in a continuous length onto a spool.
Output is CHEESES or CONES of yarn to be used for WARP. The term CHEESE refers to a roll of
yarn built up on a paper or wooden tube in a form that resembles a bulk cheese. A CONE is a tapered
cylinder of wood, metal, or cardboard around which yarn is wound.

3. The WARP may, or may not, be dyed. If not, then it is next processed by the WARPING MACHINE.
This machine takes about 500 strands of yarn and winds them side by side onto one large spool
called a SECTION BEAM. The SECTION BEAM is about three feet in diameter. Processing continues
at step 6 below.

4. If the WARP is to be dyed, it is processed by the BALL WARPING MACHINE. This machine takes
about 500 strands of yarn and gathers them together into a large, loose, rope-like strand, and winds it
on a wooden core preparatory to dyeing. The yarn is then dyed in a different location, producing rolls
of dyed WARP YARN.

5. The dyed yarn is processed by the BEAMER MACHINE which separates the individual strands of
dyed yarn and winds them onto one large spool (BEAM). The result is the same as step 3 above.

6. The SLASHING MACHINE takes the yarns from several SECTION BEAMS and winds them side by
side onto one wider spool called a LOOM BEAM.

WEAVING

1. WEAVING is the interlacing of WARP and FILLING YARN to form a cloth.

1. The inputs to the weaving process, performed on a LOOM, are (1) the WARP YARN from the
LOOM BEAM (2) the FILL YARN from a bobbin, and (3) the mechanism that controls the design to be
applied to the cloth (see Designing below).
2. If there is no LOOM BEAM currently in the LOOM, the new BEAM must be DRAWN-IN. DRAWING
IN is the process of threading the WARP filaments from the LOOM BEAM into the LOOM in the order
indicated by the design to be applied to the cloth (see Designing below). If the current LOOM BEAM
has been exhausted, the yarn ends from the new BEAM are twisted or knotted to the ends of the
exhausted BEAM.

3. As the LOOM runs, the longitudinal strands of WARP YARN are positioned so that every other
strand is raised. A pointed block of wood called a SHUTTLE pulls the FILLING YARN through the
strands. The position of the WARP YARN strands are then reversed and the SHUTTLE pulls the
FILLING YARN in the reverse direction. This process then repeats. Note that this description is for a
simple weave.

4. As bobbins are emptied, any remaining yarn is removed from them and returned to the waste
machine for salvage. The clean bobbins are then returned to the spinning operations.

5. Cloth produced by the loom is wound on a large roll and sent to the STITCHING MACHINE, where
lengths of cloth are stitched together.

6. The SHEARING MACHINE cuts away knots and loose yarn ends from the surface of the cloth to
give it a smooth surface.

7. Finally, the cloth is inspected, graded for quality, and delivered to shipping.

DESIGNING

1. Designing is the process of deciding on the pattern that is to be woven into a cloth and also the
basic weave (plain, twill, or satin). The design is drawn on cross-section paper and called a DESIGN
DRAFT.

2. There are two primary types of LOOMS - the DOBBY LOOM and the JACQUARD LOOM. The
former is adequate for simple weaves, while the latter is required for more complex weaves. The main
difference in the two LOOMs lies in how the individual WARP YARN threads are controlled, as
explained below.

DOBBY LOOM

a. The HEDDLE is a fiber or metal strand, pierced with a hole (eye), through which a WARP YARN
strand is threaded.

b. The HARNESS is an assemblage of HEDDLES attached to a HARNESS FRAME. A separate

HARNESS is used for each group of WARP YARN strands that must be moved independently to
weave a desired pattern.

c. Each HARNESS FRAME is fastened to a mechanism that raises and lowers it in proper sequence
to form the SHEDS through which the SHUTTLE carries the FILLING YARN to produce cloth of a
specified pattern. The SHED is the opening made across the WARP by the raising of some threads
and the depressing of others. It is through this opening that the SHUTTLE passes and lays the cross
of FILLING YARN of a fabric.

d. A two-harness LOOM (one with two sets of HEDDLES) can produce plain weaves. Three or more
HARNESSES are required to produce twill fabrics. Other types of fabrics may require a minimum of
five HARNESSES.

e. The cloth designer converts the DESIGN DRAFT into a PATTERN CHAIN, an arrangement of
wooden crossbars and metal pegs which is used to control the WEAVING of cloth designs and
patterns on the DOBBY LOOM. The metal pegs, about an inch long, determine which HARNESSES
are raised and when.

JACQUARD LOOM

a. Each strand of WARP YARN can be individually controlled. The HEDDLE HARNESS of the
DOBBY LOOM is replaced by a series of upright wires with hooks at their upper ends. The hooks are
attached to a controlling head high above the loom. The Jacquard head is controlled by a punch card
system.

b. The cloth designer converts the DESIGN DRAFT into punched cards. The presence or absence of
holes in each card determines whether each WARP YARN strand is raised or lowered. The cards are
fed through the Jacquard head at the rate of one card for each pass of the SHUTTLE.

c. Since the cards are small, and each one can control only a few WARP YARN strands, a number of
cards are laced together to control the full width of the LOOM.

T-Shirt :

T-shirts are durable, versatile garments with mass appeal that may be worn as outerwear or
underwear. Since their creation in 1920, T-shirts have evolved into a two-billion dollar
market. T-shirts are available in a variety of colors, patterns, and styles, such as the standard
crew neck and V-neck, as well as tank tops and scoop necks. T-shirt sleeves may be short or
long, capped, yoked, or raglan. Additional features include pockets and decorative trim. T-
shirts are also popular garments on which to display one's interests, tastes, and affiliations
using customized screen prints or heat transfers. Printed shirts may feature political slogans,
humor, art, sports, as well as famous people and places. T-shirts are also inexpensive
promotional vehicles for products and special events.

T-shirts fit just about anyone in any size, from infants to seniors. Adult sizes are generally
small, medium, large, and extra-large, while sizes for toddlers are detennined by month and
weight. In addition, to compensate for the larger heads of infants relative to their bodies,
shirts are specially designed with shoulder openings that may be fastened with buttons or
snaps.

Raw Materials
The majority of T-shirts are made of 100% cotton, polyester, or a cotton/polyester blend.
Environmentally conscious manufacturers may use organically grown cotton and natural
dyes. Stretchable T-shirts are made of knit fabrics, especially jerseys, rib knits, and interlock
rib knits, which consist of two ribbed fabrics that are joined together. Jerseys are most
frequently used since they are versatile, comfortable, and relatively inexpensive. They also
are a popular material for applying screen prints and heat transfers. Some jerseys come in
tubular form, simplifying the production process by reducing the number of seams. Rib knit
fabrics are often used when a snugger fit is desired. Many higher quality T-shirts are made of
durable interlock rib knit fabrics.

Neckbands add support to the garment and give the neckline of the T-shirt a more finished
look. Neckbands are generally one-by-one inch rib knits, although heavier fabrics or higher
quality T-shirts may require two-by-two rib knits. Neckband fabrics may be tubed rib knits of
specific widths, or flat fabric that must be seamed. Additional T-shirt materials include tape
or seam binding, made of a twill or another stiff fabric. Binding reinforces the neckline and
shoulder seams and by covering the seams, it protects them from ripping apart under tension.
Alternatively, elastic may be used at the shoulder seams so they remain flexible.

Thread is of course an essential element in sewing any garment. Several types and colors of
thread may be used to make a single T-shirt. Some manufacturers use white thread for seams
on all their shirts, regardless of color, thus eliminating the extra labor involved in changing
the thread. Visible topstitching is done with a color of thread that blends with the fabric.
Colorless, or monofilament, thread could be used for hems of any color fabric, again
eliminating the need to change thread often, though monofilament thread may irritate the skin
somewhat. Finally, optional decorative features may include trim, such as braiding,

Making T-shirts is a fairly simple and largely automated process. Specially designed machines
integrate cutting, assembling, and stitching for the most efficient operations.

contrasting cuffs, appliqués, and heat transfer or screen print designs.

The Manufacturing
Process
Making T-shirts is a fairly simple and largely automated process. Specially designed
machines integrate cutting, assembling, and stitching for the most efficient operations. The
most commonly used seams for T-shirts are narrow, superimposed seams, which are usually
made by placing one piece of fabric onto another and lining up the seam edges. These seams
are frequently stitched with an overedge stitch, which requires one needle thread from above
and two looper threads from below. This particular seam and stitch combination results in a
flexible finished seam.

Another type of seam that may be used for T-shirts are bound seams, in which a narrow piece
of fabric is folded around a seam, as at the neckline. These seams may be stitched together
using a lockstitch, chainstitch, or overedge stitch. Depending on the style of the T-shirt, the
order in which the garment is assembled may vary slightly.

Styling

 1 The T-shirt style is designed and the dimensions are transferred to patterns. Adjustments
are made for size differences and stylistic preferences.

Cutting

 2 The T-shirt sections are cut to the dimensions of the patterns. The pieces consist of a tubed
body, or separate front and back sections, sleeves, perhaps pockets, and trim.

Assembling the front and back

 3 For fabric that is not tubed, the separate pieces for the front and back sections must be
stitched together at the sides. They are joined at the seam lines to form a simple, narrow,
superimposed seam and stitched together using an overedge stitch. Care must be taken to
avoid a needle cutting the yarn of the fabric, which can lead to tears in the garment.

Assembling the sleeves

 4 The hems of sleeves are generally finished before they are fitted into the garment, since it
is easier to hem the fabric while it is flat. An automated system moves the sleeves to the
sewing head by conveyor. The edge may be finished by folding it over, forming the hem and
stitching, or by applying a band. The band may be attached as a superimposed seam or
folded over the edge as binding.
 5 If the T-shirt body is tubular, the sleeve material is first sewn together, and then set into
the garment. Alternatively, if the T-shirt is "cut and sewn," the unseamed sleeve is set into
place. Later during the final stage of sewing the shirt, the sleeve and side seams are sewn in
one action.

Stitching the hem

 6 The garment hem is commonly sewn with an overedge stitch, resulting in a flexible hem.
The tension of the stitch should be loose enough to allow stretching the garment without
tearing the fabric. Alternative hem styles include a combination of edge finishing stitches.

Adding pockets

 7 Pockets may be sewn onto T-shirts intended for casual wear. Higher quality T-shirts will
insert an interlining into the pocket so that it maintains its shape. The interlining is inserted
into the pocket as it is sewn onto the T-shirt front. Pockets may be attached to the garment
 with automated setters, so the operator only has to arrange the fabric pieces, and the
mechanical setter positions the pocket and stitches the seam.

Stitching the shoulder seams

 8 Generally, shoulder seams require a simple superimposed seam. Higher quality T-shirt
manufacturers may reinforce seams with tape or elastic. Depending on the style of the T-
shirt, the seams at the shoulder may be completed before or after the neckband is attached.
For instance, if a tubular neckband is to be applied, the shoulder seams must first be closed.

Attaching the neckband

 9 For crew neck shirts, the neck edge should be slightly shorter in circumference than the
outer edge where it is attached to the garment. Thus, the neckband must be stretched just
the right amount to prevent bulging. Tubular neckbands are applied manually. The bands are
folded, wrong sides together, stretched slightly, and aligned with the neckline. The
superimposed seam is stitched with an overedge stitch.

Bound seams are finished with a cover stitch and are easy to achieve. Bound seams
may be used on a variety of neckline styles. The process entails feeding ribbed fabric
through machines which fold the fabric and apply tension to it.

Some neckbands on lower-priced shirts are attached separately to the front and back
necklines of the garment. Thus when the shoulder seams are stitched, seams are
visible on the neckband.

V-necks require the extra step of either lapping or mitering the neckband. In the
former process, one side is folded over the other. A mitered seam is more complex,
requiring an operator to overlap the band accurately and stitch the band at center
front. An easier method for a V-neck look is to attach the band to the neckline and
then sew a tuck to form a V.

Finishing the neckline

 10 Necklines with superimposed seams may be taped, so that the shirt is stronger and more
comfortable. Tape may be extended across the back and over the shoulder seams to
reinforce this area as well and to flatten the seam. The seam is then cover stitched or top
stitched.

Label setting

 11 One or more labels are usually attached at the back of the neckline. Labels provide
information about the manufacturer, size, fabric content, and washing instructions.

Optional features

 12 Some T-shirts will have trim or screen prints added for decorative purposes. Special T-
shirts for infants have larger openings at the head. The shoulder seams are left open near
the neck, and buttons or other fasteners are attached.
Finishing operations

 13 T-shirts are inspected for flaws in the fabric, stitching, and thread.
 14 High-quality T-shirts may be pressed through steam tunnels before they are packaged.
Packaging depends on the type of T-shirt and the intended distribution outlet. For
underwear, the shirts are folded and packaged in pre-printed bags, usually of clear plastic,
that list information about the product. Shirts may be boarded, or folded around a piece of
cardboard, so that they maintain their shape during shipping and on the shelf. Finally, they
are placed into boxes by the dozen or half-dozen.

Quality Control
Most of the operations in manufacturing clothing are regulated by federal and inter-national
guidelines. Manufacturers may also set guidelines for the company. There are standards that
apply specifically to the T-shirt industry, which include proper sizing and fit, appropriate
needles and seams, types of stitches, and the number of stitches per inch. Stitches must be
loose enough to allow the garment to stretch without breaking the seam. Hems must be flat
and wide enough to prevent curling. T-shirts must also be inspected for proper application of
neck-lines, which should rest flat against the body. The neckline should also recover properly
after being slightly stretched.

WET PROCESSING
Textile weaving and finishing industry in Pakistan
by
Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

Research, innovations and development in technical textiles, yarn quality, clothing products,
process performance, fabric finishing, colouration technology and marketing can bring
significant advancement in textile sector and market supremacy. Drastic measures through
strategic management both in public and private level can strengthen the position of Pakistan
in post-2004 era of textile world. Pakistan's textile sector has made considerable advances in
production capacity and capability in the last four years. There is now a marked shift to value
addition and the share of garments and made-ups has increased from 47% to 58%.
Simultaneously, the share of yarn and fabrics in exports has fallen from 53% to 42%. Today
it contributes 67% of exports, and many product lines, such as bed linen and garments, are
expanding rapidly.

By mid-sixties there were about 180 units of textile bleaching, printing and processing units,
mostly situated in Karachi and a small number in the Punjab. In 1968, inconsequence of
change in the basis of collection of excise duty from capacity to production, most of the mills
closed down their weaving sections. The looms, removed from the mills, were installed
outsides the mills' premises in units of four, which has been exempted from excise duty.

About 31,000 looms since 1969-70, continued to operate in the mill sector even after general
segregation of weaving. This number decreased to only 10,000 looms by the end of June
2003. In the non-mill sector a big majority of the units operate at very low level, having no
automatic machinery. In some factories, the printing of textile is done by spreading the cloth
on tops of tables and pressing design screens on them, a method which is primitive as
compared to the process in use by the modern and automated factories.

There are two major complaints about Pakistani fabrics: there is no consistency in
colours/shades; and the dye bleeds out in the first washing. While poor selection of cotton is
responsible for inconsistency in dyeing and bleaching due to use of substandard dyes. The
poor finishing may also be attributed to the facts that the textile processing units are operating
mostly in the unorganised sector at small scale, without modern processing facilities. Thus,
the overseas buyers prefer to buy yarn or grey fabrics from Pakistan. According to a study
conducted by the National Productivity Organisation (NPO), the loss of productivity resulting
from the poor shape of the machinery in operation in the power loom sector has been
estimated at Rs. 450 million annually.

The government under Textile Vision 2005

has focused more on providing credit and
other facilitative support to diversify the
products, especially to cater the needs of
the high value added sector like garment
industry. The textile industry invested
substantially in BMR for improving
production quality and moving towards
more value addition during the last four
years. There has been a substantial increase
in the capacities, production and
consumption of raw materials. The installed
and effective capacities in the weaving
sector are given in Table-1.

The weaving and made-up sectors have three different sub-sectors in weaving viz. integrated,
independent weaving units and power loom sector. Cloth is being produced in both mill and
non-mill sectors. Production of cloth (mill-sector) increased from 295 million sq meters in
1989-99 to 586 million sq meters in 2002-2003. Pakistan fabric's range from coarse to super
varieties, with coarse and medium varieties consumed locally.
The pattern of consumption has shifted
from pure cotton to blended fabrics i.e.
polyester/cotton, polyester/viscose etc.
because of their durability and
comparatively cheaper prices. Out of
total production of 586 million sq. meters
cloth during 2002-03 in mill sector, 50%
produced in grey form, 33% dyed and
printed, 13% blended and 4% bleached.
There are a large number of vertically
integrated units, where production is
controlled from fibre to the end product,
and marketed abroad directly. Category-
wise production of cloth (mill-sector) is
given in Table-2.

There is an urgent need to bring

improvement in textile production,
especially in the blended sector. Blended
products made from a combination of
natural and man-made fabrics are
preferred in clothing the world over.

The establishment of textile cities in the major cities of the country is an appreciable move.
The government should either set up joint ventures in textile related areas or should provide
subsidised credit to textile manufacturers to upgrade their technology and capacity building
through 'Technology Up-gradation Fund' (TUF). It is also suggested that smaller units of
power looms (upto 50 looms) should be upgraded to auto looms and power loom units larger
than 50 looms into air jet looms. The objective of higher value-addition in textile industry
cannot be achieved without creating a very strong weaving and processing base.

Textile industry imported Rs 2,336 million (US$ 525 million) worth of machinery in 2002-03
and Rs 2,340 million (US$ 409 million) in 2001-02. The major area of investment, which
amounts to nearly $4 billion, has been capacity expansion, product diversification and new
product ranges of higher value addition in Greenfield projects during the past four years. As a
result of this investment activity in the exports of textiles has grown from $5.9 billion in
1999-2000 to $7.4 billion in 2002-2003; the growth came mainly from exports of the value
added components. Import of textile machinery in to Pakistan is given in Table-3.
The exact number of factories, having high-speed rotary textile printing and processing units,
is not known. However, most of the available units working on Hi-Tec machines are owned
by big industrial and commercial cartels such as Adamjees, Gul Ahmeds etc. At present there
are more than 700 independent processing units working in and around Faisalabad,
Gujranwala and Karachi, in which about 70 integrated units with complete, finishing
facilities. These integrated units have complete finishing facilities i.e. bleaching, mercerising,
dyeing, calendering and printing. These textile printing and processing units have been
classified into three categories i.e. A, B and C.

Category-A integrated units have complete finishing facilities i.e. bleaching mercerizing,
dyeing, calendering and printing. These units from the power loom sector procure cloth and
after processing they marked it under own brand names. At times, these units also provide
finishing facilities to the traders on charge basis.

Category-B units directly compete with the products of integrated units. In terms of quality,
design and colour, their products are in no-way inferior to the products of integrated mills.
Like the integrated mills these units also sell their products in wholesale market.

Category-C units are those, which do not have complete finishing facilities. These are either
engaged in bleaching and dyeing. In comparison with Type-A, these units perform more
work on job order basis. Besides, they also procure cloth from the market and after
processing market in under their own brand names.

At present due to non-availability of testing laboratories, Pakistani exporters have to spend

much money to get certification from abroad.

If WTO recommended laboratories were established in Pakistan a lot of valuable foreign

exchange could be saved.

Export of cotton fabrics increased from 1,575 million sq meters worth US $ 1.10 billion in
1999-2000 to 2005 million sq meters worth US $ 1.35 billion in 2002-2003, thus showing an
increase of 23% in terms of value. Major markets for Pakistan's fabric are USA, Hong Kong,
UK, China, Dubai, Italy and Turkey. Export of cotton cloth is given in Table-3.

The demand for textiles in the world is around $18 trillion, which is likely to be increased by
6.5% in 2005. China was the leading textile exporter of the world's total exports of $400
billion in 2002. Pakistan has emerged as one of the major cotton textile product suppliers in
the world market with share of world yarn trade about 30% and cotton fabric about 8%,
having total export of $7.4 billion.
Pakistan should learn a lesson from Bangladesh, which by imports yarn and fabrics from
Pakistan and other countries. Bangladesh is not a cotton growing country but presently earns
over $3.5 billion on export of value-added textile goods, particularly garments. Now, if a
country having no indigenous raw material could excel in this field then as to why Pakistan
could not achieve this goal whose total export in textiles comes to around $7 billion only.

If we desire to achieve the target of textile exports as envisaged in the textile vision 2005, we
will have to promote value-added sector in textiles.

Textile Vision-2005 has been directed towards an open, market-driven, innovative and
dynamic textile sector, which is internationally integrated, globally competitive and fully
equipped to exploit the opportunities created by the Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA).
Pakistan, at present, holds the 8th position in textile exports in Asia. Pakistan can achieve 5th
position in Asia in the textile exports as has been targeted in the Textile Vision -2005.

During the last four years, Pakistan's textile sector is preparing itself to face the challenges of
the post-quota regime in 2005.

The Textile Board and Ministry of Commerce have geared up efforts for boosting the export
targets of textile from the present $7 billion to $14 billion as envisaged by the Textile Vision-
2005, which is quite encouraging.

For Pakistan, the competitor will not only be China, India and Vietnam but also countries
whom USA has given preferential treatment like NAFTA, CBI, AGOA, etc. The USA has
signed TIFA with Pakistan but it will not translate into preferential duties for Pakistani
textiles in the near future.
The USA and the EU will on the one hand demand better market access for their textiles and
also the implementation of WTO bindings particularly in tariffs and intellectual property
rights and enforce strict rules of origin while on the other hand the buyers will make more
demands for compliance.
The opportunities for Pakistan will be
quota on China and Vietnam beyond
2005, closure of some EU and US
companies dealing in basic textile,
disadvantage to countries like
Bangladesh and Sri Lanka who thrived
due to quota regime and finally, the
biggest advantage to Pakistan will be its
vertically integrated cotton textile
industry.

Pakistan has made some progress in

facing post-quota era to take the
production of textile goods upwards.
There was a great possibility that
Pakistan would gain and capture more
markets in the quota-free era as it was
producing high quality textile products
and ensured prompt supply owing to
indigenous raw cotton.

According to survey conducted by the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) during Heimtextile
exhibition, held from January 9 to 11, 2004 in Frankfurt, most of the people belonging to
different countries said Pakistani products and designs are improving and the country is
emerging as the world's leading exporters of textile and garments. The survey concludes that
Pakistan will become one of the world's largest textile exporting country in the next 10 years
as the demand for its products is continuously rising.

Weaving is the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called the
warp and the filling or weft (older woof), are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or
cloth. The warp threads run lengthways of the piece of cloth, and the weft runs across from
side to side.

Cloth is woven on a loom, a device for holding the warp threads in place while the filling
threads are woven through them. Weft is an old English word meaning "that which is woven".
[1]

The manner in which the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is known as the
weave. The three basic weaves are plain weave, satin weave, and twill, and the majority of
woven products are created with one of these weaves.

Woven cloth can be plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or it can be woven in decorative
or artistic designs, including tapestries. Fabric in which the warp and/or weft is tie-dyed
before weaving is called ikat.

The ancient art of handweaving, along with hand spinning, remains a popular craft. The
majority of commercial fabrics in the West are woven on computer-controlled Jacquard
looms. In the past, simpler fabrics were woven on dobby looms, while the Jacquard harness
adaptation was reserved for more complex patterns. Some believe the efficiency of the
Jacquard loom, with its Jacquard weaving process, makes it more economical for mills to use
them to weave all of their fabrics, regardless of the complexity of the design.

] Process

An Indian weaver preparing his warp

A woman weaving with a manual loom

In general, weaving involves the interlacing of two sets of threads at right angles to each
other: the warp and the weft. The warp are held taut and in parallel order, typically by means
of a loom, though some forms of weaving may use other methods. The loom is warped (or
dressed) with the warp threads passing through heddles on two or more harnesses. The warp
threads are moved up or down by the harnesses creating a space called the shed. The weft
thread is wound onto spools called bobbins. The bobbins are placed in a shuttle which carries
the weft thread through the shed. The raising and lowering sequence of warp threads gives
rise to many possible weave structures:

 plain weave,
 twill weave,
 satin weave, and
 complex computer-generated interlacings.

Both warp and weft can be visible in the final product. By spacing the warp more closely, it
can completely cover the weft that binds it, giving a warpfaced textile such as rep weave.
Conversely, if the warp is spread out, the weft can slide down and completely cover the warp,
giving a weftfaced textile, such as a tapestry or a Kilim rug. There are a variety of loom styles
for hand weaving and tapestry. In tapestry, the image is created by placing weft only in
certain warp areas, rather than across the entire warp width.

History of Textile Weaving Weaving is acknowledged as one of the oldest surviving craft in
the world. The tradition of weaving traces back to Neolithic times that is approximately
12,000 years ago. Even before the actual process of weaving was discovered, the basic
principle of weaving was applied to interlace branches and twigs to create fences, shelters
and baskets for protection.

Weaving is one of the primary methods of textile production and it involves interlinking a set
of vertical threads with a set of horizontal threads. The set of vertical threads are known as
wrap and the set of horizontal threads are known as weft. Weaving can be done by hand or it
can also be done by using machines. Machines used for weaving is termed as loom.
Loom originated from crude wooden frame and gradually transformed into the modern
sophisticated electronic weaving machine. Nowadays weaving has become a mechanized
process though hand weaving is still in practice.

John Kay of Bury, England first discovered flying shuffle in 1733 which speeded the process of
weaving and the production was almost doubled. Initially weaving was done by hand by the weavers
but with the mechanization of the weaving and industrial revolution, the traditional hand weavers
felt threatened to their very livelihood.

Wool available from sheep served as the earliest textile fabric available for spinning into yarn and
then for weaving into cloth. The first spinning wheel was discovered in India and then it reached
Europe in the latter half of the 14th century.

Modern Machines Used in Weaving The impact and wide spread use of modern, technically updated
machinery becomes clearly evident list of following list of weaving machineries.

 Rapier loom
 Collar making machine
 Lace braiding machine
 Air jet loom
 Jacquard weaving machine
 Computerized jacquard ribbon loom
 Glove weaving machine
      The origin of fabric wearing is still not known. The evidence of the weav
items similar to fabric woven found at various archaeological sites, suppor
speculation that fabric weaving may have evolved from rope making and m
basket weaving from prehistoric times. Therefore it could be said that the a
fabric making is one of the oldest crafts in the world.
     The principle of fabric weaving is to weave two groups of threads, one c
warp, the other called weft. A simple pattern is Lai
Kat. Design patterns and colour can be added to
make fabrics more attractive.

The procedure of fabric weaving

     1. The threads of each spool pass though
suspended loops, then through holes in a warping
paddle. The large warping board stands upright.
The warp being drawn up and down as one works
from left to right pegs.  The end is slipped onto the
warp beam and the whole spread evenly before being rolled onto the beam
To form the warping cross, half the threads are passed over and half under
separator (two beams one above the other). Heddle string are threaded aro
under heddle bar which can be manipulated through a series of levers by p
rope sling with the big toe. The whole warp is passed through a reel.
     2. The weaving begins by pushing down the harness to separate the two
warp threads, leaving space to shoot the shuttle alternately back and forth.
     3. After each shuttle pass, the reed is moved up and down to tighten the
and obtain a thicker fabric.
     4. The fabric is rolled toward the weaver in a rolling beam then adjusted on the warp beam again.

Plain Cloth Weaving

       The basic weaving technique uses the same or different colors in the warp and weft. Sometimes gold or silver t
can be woven into the weft to give a sheen to the fabric.

Special techniques in fabric weaving

      Khit is a technique to create design using continuous supplementary weft.

      Chok (to pick out) refers to a weaving technique whereby warp yarns are picked out by hand to weave discontin
supplementary weft. In this way, many colours can be added to the weft to create beautiful colour patterns. It takes
time to weave chok, so it can only be a narrow stripe of cloth. Usually  Chok is used as a hem band on the tubeskirt
Sin tin chok
   
     Mud mee weaving is a weft ikat technique. Using a resistance to dye technique on the yarn before weaving. The
from this dyeing technique is to produce the different shades of colours. Threads, when spooled on the weft and wo
create a pattern, which is a special effect of Mud mee. This type of fabric needs great expertise in weaving. There a
designs such as:
      1. Mud mee weft
      2. Mud  mee warp
      3. Mud mee warp and weft

     Yok woven is a technique used to refer to various types of twill weave. The designs are usually related to every d
add environment and religious belifs such as Lai Prasart, Lai Thamas, Lai Sat (animal) Lai Deush (Plants) pattern fr
household items or geometry pattern.

Mook Woven
It is one of the woven techniques that is rarely used today. The Pha mook technique used extra warp threads over t
ordinary, warp threads on the loom. The pattern is created by using continuous supplementary and discontinuous
supplementary weaving in a weft and warp. It is confusing for the weaver so there are not many weavers who can w
this cloth. The Tai Puan at Had Swaw Sukhothai province and at Laplae district Urraradit province weave this patte
small green pattern on a tubeskirt (pha sin)

Woven  Kho or luang techniques

It is a continuous supplementary pattern of many colors weft with the catch in different places creating a stripe of pa
like rolling river. That is why the pattern is called  Nam Lai   In Nan province called it  Luang  (to pull out) Tai Lue in
 Khong and Chiang Kham called it  Kot   (to hold together). Famous locations for this type of pattern are in Nan, Chia
and Phayao province.

Hang krarok or two skicns woven

It is a technique of twisted two colored yarn in a weft or a warp where desirable. This technique called  Pan Kai  suc
Chieng San waisth and of a tubeskirt, or woven using the twisted two coloured yarn in a warp such as Sinta, Sin Ka
Yuan Chaeng Mai

Departments of weaving:
Warping department:
In warping department there are three warping machines.

The function of this warping machine is to warp yarn from cone stand to warp beam.

The speed of warping machine is max up to 1200 meter per minute.

The average speed is 800 meter per minute to 900 meter per minute.

Warp beam transport

 Manual Transport Truck for
Empty Beams LTW 5

This small and handy vehicle offers a broad range of applications. It is used in the weaving
preparation area for picking up empty warp beams from the warp beam warehouse and for
adjusting them to the correct width. Afterwards the empty warp beams are placed in front of
the warping machine or sizing machine. Warper’s beams can be placed in front of the
warping frame in the same manner.
Furthermore, the empty warp beams are removed by means of this vehicle from the weaving
machine in the weaving mill and transported back to the warp beam warehouse.

Advantages

 Easy and safe handling

 Smooth running due to large-sized load wheels
 Load capacity of 500 kg
 Robust design
 Broad range of applications

Data required in case of inquiry/order

 Min. and max. warp beam diameter

 Min. and max. tube diameter

Warp Beam Low Lift Truck KGH 20...30

The prismatic forks drive underneath the warper’s beams or warp beams and lift them
The prismatic forks drive underneath the warper’s beams or warp beams and lift them
hydraulically. An anti-spread device is used for longer forks.
The load is lifted by means of some pump strokes executed with the drawbar.
With the lowering handle, the load is gently deposited on the floor.
Polyamide wheels ensure smooth running on even ground. Polyurethane wheels are
recommended for rough ground.

Advantages

 Well-proven, maintenance-free hydraulic system

 Reduced pump force required
 Solid prismatic supports
 Rounded insertion tips avoid damage to the yarn

Data required in case of inquiry/order

 Min. and max. warp beam flange diameter

 Max. warp beam flange distance
 Max. warp beam tube length
Motor-Driven Warp Beam Low Lift Truck KEGU

For the transport of warp beams, batches and other rolls

This vehicle is designed for the easy transport of warper’s beams and warp beams weighing
up to 3000 kg and is also suitable for longer distances, e.g. from the warping frame to the
warping machine or to the warehouse.
Depending on the warp beam length and the warp beam diameter, this vehicle is also able to
cope with gradients while transporting load.
The sensitive driving and braking motions make it an uncomplicated transporter.
The central drive allows a good traction, and the spring-loaded support wheels ensure good
and safe driving characteristics.
It goes without saying that the vehicle can also be used for the transport of fabric rolls.
A version with driver's platform is optionally available. It is recommended for longer
transport routes and can be folded up for minor steering manoeuvres and in restricted spaces.
Versions for larger diameters and weights can be individually realized.

Advantages

 Strong, robust travelling mechanism

 Well-proven hydraulic components
 Polyurethane running wheels cushion the vehicle while driving on a rough roadway surface
 Solid prismatic supports
 Rounded insertion tips avoid damage to the yarn

Data required in case of inquiry/order

 Min. and max. warp beam flange diameter

 Max. warp beam flange distance
 Max. warp beam tube length
 Max. weight
Electric Warp Beam Low Lift Truck with Cross Seat
KEFU30

For the transport of warp beams, batches and other rolls

This warp beam transporter with a loading capacity of 3000 kg is especially advantageous for
large transport volumes and longer transport routes.
It impresses with its driving comfort which allows fatigue-free working, even over long
distances and in continuous operation.
Continuous operation is possible due to the optional battery exchange system.
The good all-round visibility in connection with the powerful drive unit with three-phase AC
technology allows a safe operation, even when driving uphill. It goes without saying that the
vehicle can also be used for the transport of batches.
The load diameter range and the fork length of the truck can be adapted.

Advantages

 High driving speed up to 11 km/h

 Flexible driver seat for tall and small persons
 Comfortable handling due to ergonomically favourable design in many details

Data required in case of inquiry/order

 Max. load weight

 Min. and max. diameter
 Roll length

   
Features:

 Machine Head:
o Men-Machinery-Interface (MMI) operation. Features with high speed,
efficiency, technology and stability.
 Auto Yarn Breakage Recording System:
 o Indicating yarn breakage with date, time, length, accumulating numbers by
micro processing unit.
 High Speed:
o Speed setting according to yarn kind, quality and user needs. Reference speed:
1,000m/min for cotton, 1,200m/min for filament.
 Beam Take-Up:
o Digital and micro processed take-up. Users are able to set beam yam surface
hardness. Tension keeps the same from small to big shaft.
o Optional take-up shaft, applicable for various kind of loom width.
o Accessories, spare parts are made from computerized processing, which are
100% inter changeable with European type.
o Multi applications in one machine:
 Able to share warping and shaft dyeing in the same headstock.
 Using filament and cotton yarns together in the same headstock.
o Yarn Pressing Device:
 Horizontal type yarn pressing, which maintains press power from
starting diameter to full beam the same.
o Braking System:
 Disk type sharp braking system. No need to look for yarn head.
 Synchronize braking for yarn pressing and guiding roller. This will
avoid yarn wears, breaks or slips.
o Reed:
 Sawtooth or zig-zag type reed made for optional.
 Electric motor enables reed to move horizontally and vertically.
 Reed movable while machine works, which enables warp yarn ranking
regularly. This will prevent yarn from tangling or breaking. Users will
find excellent sizing quality and efficiency from weaving works.
o Safety Interlocking:
 To prevent human made mistakes, TAYA has designed the whole
machine with safe interlocking device.
 Invalid activating while pressure is insufficient.
 Invalid activating while beam lift-arm is rising.
 Invalid beam doffing while beam life-arm is grounded.
 Creel: (specifications made for orders)
 Spindles: Ranking from 230, 300, 500, 600,700, 800, 1,000,
1,200, 1,300, 1,400 to 1,440 ends...etc. Manufactured according
to users' needs.
 Pitch and layer numbers can be made for orders.
 Yarn drawing type:
 Drawn from inside (preparation yarn placing outside).
 Drawn from outside (preparation yarn placing inside).
 Drawn from both sides (4 rows drawn together, this
saves factory length).
 Leveling Reed: (for filament use)
 A special design reed is equipped with a barrel bar for
avoiding yarn bouncing. Leveling reed is vertically
movable while operation for yarn regularizing as well as
protecting reed from abrasion.
 Fur Inspector: (for filament use)
  Precise monitoring system to inspect yarn broken
connection, knot, dust or even single silk of complex
yams.
 Waxing and Coloring: (for filament)
 Yarn waxing, oiling or coloring is available as required.
Yarn sheet is immersed through guiding roller and
leveling roller for complete immersion. When machine
stopped, the roller will be raised to prevent yarn from
over oiling and abnormal absorption.
 Static Eliminator: (for filament use)
 Equipped in each row between machine head and creel.
This device eliminates static of filament fibers, prevents
warp yarn from twisting and sticking.
 Guiding Plate: (for filament use)
 In addition to facilitating yarn feeding, an eye-board is
equipped for filament. It provides a good yarn travel
and maintain flexibility.
 Tension Device:
 Special designed tension device to prevent yarn
jumping. There are oil pressure, spring and motor type
tension device for options.
 Auto Yarn Break Stop Device:
 Electric system designed for more precise.
 Each layer is equipped with indicating lamp to find
where broken yarn.
 Applicable for Various Fibers:
 High speed working conditions, which can supply for
various kind of yarns i.e. cotton, filament, non-twisting
or twisting, lighting fibers...etc.

Direct Warping Machine

High Speed
Max. 600m per minute is available for the synthetic filament yarns. Powerful brake
mechanism with pneumatic flex brake can make emergency stop of the machine even at the
high speed working. Various yarn speeds can be non-stop set in the range of min. 10 to Max.
600m/Min.

Large Package
Take-up diameter of Max. 920mm can be obtained on the warper's beams.

Press Roller
Press roller gives pressure to the surface of the warps wound on the warper's beam to keep
round package of the warps, to keep best pressure for the moving of press roller by LM
bearing.

Auto Counter
Take-up length of yarns can be determined in advance by means of the high precision auto-
counter. The buzzer rings at the determined length of the warps to stop running of the
machine.

Creel

Creel Tension Device

When a yarn breakage, the warper is stopped automatically by the function of auto feeler device.
The spot of yarn breakage can be found easily by looking where the lamp is on. The stop-run switch
of the warper is placed on the creel for working efficiency Furthermore, it is designed for shortening
working time at creel by attachment of spindle to both sides.
 Oiling & Tension Device

Roller tension device consisting of 2sets of roller and powder brake control yarn tension. Oiling
device with service tank and feeding pump control oil level automatically. When not using, roller will
be down.

Direct Warper for Synthetic Yarn Dimension

Zoom

1. Safety Bar 6. Zig-Zag Comb 11. Tension Roller

2. Warper Beam 7. Press Roller 12. Powder Brake

3. Cylinder for Beam Lift 8. Cylinder for Press Roller 13. Front Reed

4. Measuring Roller 9. Main Motor -

5. Taping Device 10. Waxing or Oiling Roller -

Direct Warper for Spun Yarn Dimension

Zoom

1. Safety Bar 5. Taping Device 9. Cylinder for Press Roller

2. Warper Beam 6.Zig-Zag Comb 10. Main Motor

3. Cylinder for Beam Lift 7. Wind Shield -

4. Measuring Roller 8. Press Roller -

Beaming Machine
Beamer
The Max. yarn speed is 200m/min, the Max. yarn tension is 600Kg, the Max. beaming width
is 2,200mm and the Max. loom beam diameter is Ø1,000. As the braking device for section
beams, air cooling powder braked are adopted which assure smooth and uniform tension. The
braking power changes proportionately by adjusting exciting current.

By following this tension control system, there in no necessity for troublesome work in
adjusting weights which is the peculiar work in the case of using conventional mechanical
brakes. This machine has a 30Kw DC motor. It is controlled by a silicon controlled rectifier,
and in this way makes it possible to change the speed freely. This setting can be done by a
very easy dial operation. One of the main features of this machine is to be able to gain
dynamic braking.

Beam Stand
Section beam equipped to beam stand keep even & stable tension according to winding
diameter change by powder brake. Electronic winding feedback system can make automatic
tension control and prevent loose yarn condition in operation, starting and stopping time to
keep stable tension.

Leasing Device

Leasing device to be installed between beam stand and winding place of beaming M/C separate very
well divided yarn from warper beam. This device can be used for accurate leasing works regardless
of non-twisting, twisting and texturing yarn etc. Furthermore, good for dividing leasing works of left
and right twisting yarn.

Speed Control System

The loom beam is driven by a variable speed motor called the D.C. motor. This special motor
is designed so as to provide uniform yarn speed in accordance with the change of the
diameter of the loom beam. This tension control by the powder brakes entirely eliminates any
abrupt change in tension and can be said to be an ideal pattern, as a tension control system.

The winding tension on this machine is controlled by the two DC motors which are
connected to the take-up rollers, so as to maintain the yarn tension uniform at high precision.
Furthermore, the yarn tension is automatically controlled uniform in accordance with the
change of the diameter of the section beam by the torque of DC motor. Namely it is easy to
get the taper tension to the beam.

Beaming Machine Dimension

Zoom

1. Loom Beam 5. Take-Up Roller 9. Safety Bar

2. Measuring Roller 6. DC Motor 10. Warper Beam

3. Tension Roller 7. DC Motor 11. Powder Brake

4. Pushing Roller 8. Zig-Zag Reed 12. Leasing M/C

Specification

Nominal Width 2,200mm (Option : 2,500mm)

Max. Yarn Beaming Speed 200m/min

Max. Tension 600Kg

Number of Section Beams on the creel 10 (Option : 12)

Max. Number of Warp Ends on Loom Beam 14,400

Max. Loom Beam Flange Diameter Ø1,000

Driving Motor 30Kw DC Motor

Beaming System Direct Take-Up by DC Motor

Beaming Tension Control Automatic Electric Control of Powder Brakes

Beaming Headstocks Expanding & Sliding Shaft

Taper Tension 0 ~ -50Kg

Change of Speed Linearly by Dial

Loom Beam Lifting & Doffing System Motor & Hydraulic (Option)

Tensioners on Beam Creel Electromagnetic Powder Brakes

Tension Indicators for Individual Section Beams Can be Optionally Equipped

Operator Per Shift 1

Lay Out of YH-1600 Direct Warper System View

Dimension of Direct Warper for Synthetic Yarn

 Zoom

Specification Creel (10 Steps)

Warping Width 1780mm (2000mm) Dimension (mm)

Pitch Total
(mm) Ends
Main Motor DC Motor (11Kw) A B C

Brake System Air Flex Brake System 1000 4500 12050 2642

Yarn Speed 10 ~ 600m/min 230 1200 4580 14460 2642

Winding Diameter 800mm (920mm) 1400 4660 16870 2642

Catch Bar Automatic Pneumatic Type 1000 4500 13050 2682

Beam Doffing & Lifting Automatic Pneumatic Type 250 1200 4580 15660 2682

Oiling or Waxing Kiss Roller System 1400 4660 18270 2682

Dimension of Direct Warper for Spun Yarn

Zoom

Specification Creel (10 Steps)

Warping Width 1780mm (2000mm) Dimension (mm)

Pitch Total
(mm) Ends
Main Motor VS Motor (15Kw), (DC Motor) A B C

Brake System Air Flex Brake System 230 480 4100 7230 2412
 Yarn Speed 10 ~ 1000m/min 640 4300 9640 2412

Winding Diameter 800mm (920mm), Max. 1250mm 800 4500 12050 2412

Catch Bar Automatic Pneumatic Type 480 4100 9450 2672

Beam Doffing & Lifting Automatic Pneumatic Type 300 640 4300 12600 2672

Electrical Supply 30KVA 800 4500 15750 2672

* The specifications are subject to change without any prior notice for quality improvement.

Sizing Department:
The function of sizing is to give proper strength to the warp beam yarn by
different chemical so that the strength of yarn will be improved.

The following chemicals are used in sizing department:

1-PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)
2-Acrylic (Size City)
3-Starch (Maize)
4-Softner (Polytex)

Cooking Section in Sizing Department:

1- Cooking tank
2- Storage
3- Hot Water

1- Cooking tank: In cooking tank first of all we put pva in cold water and
then mix other three chemicals. And mix it on 90◦ for 30 minutes.
 2- Storage: From cooking box the mixed material is sent to the storage tank.
From which it is transferred to the size box through pipeline.

3- Hot Water: In case of count of 8, 10, 20 the hot water is used to reduce the
cost of chemicals. The yarn is showered with hot water so that the chemicals can’t be
absorbed in the yarn, it can only float on the layer of yarn resulting in saving of 30 to
40 percent chemical cost.

Digital Control Indigo Dyeing With Sizing Machine

Product ID: TAYA-700D ~ 720D
Indigo Dyeing with Sizing Machine

Indigo Dyeing with Sizing Machine

The trend of denim world is created by its comfort and natural eurythmy. As the technology
of textile improves, the demand of denim quality of human beings will also increase.
TAYA provides the best equipment in weaving preparation from yarns to beams. In slasher
dyeing process, there is no color difference, looseness or shortening problems. It is broadly
applied from coarse to fine yarn counts. As a result the advance and stability optimize
weaving efficiency. Our innovative solutions achieve global competitive advantages for
denim fabrics.

Features:

 Machine Headstock
o The adjustable large diameter headstock is applicable for various type of
looms.
o Equipped with stepless motor control software and system to ensure machine
running stable.
o The special design of synchronic speed controller provides easy operation.
o The demountable cover brings convenient maintenance.
o It is effective to monitor the quality of yarns thanks to Man-Machinery-
Interface (MMI) digital control.
o The user-friendly buttons and indicators enable operator to control the
machine condition.
 Yarn Dividing
 o One set of waxing device located in yarn dividing area. The layer of waxing is
regulable according to machine speed.
o The yarn dividing device is composed of several splitting rods which level is
adjustable.
o Both PLC and pneumatic yarn grip ensure yarn tension when machine stops.
 Yarn Accumulator
o The tension of accumulator is elevated according to various yarn kind to keep
it stable.
o Thanks to limit switch and accurate alarm, the quantity of storage is indicated
distinctively.
o The large storage capacity provides sufficient beam changing time.
o The smooth elevating mechanism and effective hydraulic circulation facilitate
yarn tension.
 Drying Cylinder for Sizing
o Cylinders are driven by chains. They are controlled by software programming
system which measures and feedback controls the elongation.
o The steam casement can be opened for checking cylinder conditions at any
time.
o One set of PID temperature control is located in each cylinder area. The
moisture is controlled on MMI monitor of headstock.
o Digital temperature control features energy saving.
 Sizing Device
o The size liquid circulation system prevents size spots effectively.
o Stainless tank with double layer cozy for energy saving.
o Equipped with auto size supply system and level indicator.
o Wet splitting device is provided to smooth yarn fur. It works according to
machine speed.
o The individual motor control effects tension adjustable system.
o The replaceable strainer inside size box optimized filtering function.
 Drying Cylinder for Dyeing
o This part is composed of 8-10 drying cylinder.
o The cylinders are controlled by software programming system which measures
and feedback controls the elongation.
o Two set of auto temperature control which value is indicated on electric
control cabinet.
 Washing
o Equipped with air-spring type yarn squeezing device with max. Pressure up to
9 ton.
o Indirect spraying device provided to wash after-dyed yarns.
o There are stainless guiding roller and wearable bearings inside tank to ensure
running smoothly.
 Oxidation
o Located on top of dye tank and sulfur tank. Prevent shrinkage, diverge and
overlap.
o Equipped with precision potentiometer and auto tension regulation on each
oxidation rack to perform the best elongation.
o The oxidation is 4.6 times the length of dyebath, thus provide sufficient time
in oxidation.
 Dyeing
o Special overflow design for dyestuff feeding ensures yarn chroma and color
equal.
o Stainless balancing tubes with circulation and spare pumping system to keep
constant running.
o Equipped with air-spring type yarn squeezing device with max. pressure up to
9 ton.
o Washable filtering device provided to keep the impurities from flowing into
dye tank.
o There are stainless guiding roller and wearable bearings inside tank to ensure
running smoothly.
 Mercerizing (Optional)
o Additional pre-drying cylinders with the main function of mercerizing and
leveling. One set of temperature control system which includes sensor and
pneumatic control valve.
 Scouring
o The scouring tank is made of stainless steel with direct and indirect heating
system. The temperature is fully automatic controlled.
o The new design of air-spring type yarn squeezing device ensures yarn flatness
and coincidence.
o Two-way measuring circulation system provided.
 Yarn Feeding Device
o The yarn feeding device is driven by inverter motor which carried the yarn
sheet into scouring tank.
o By way of electric inspector, the tension is measured through the control
networking system and executes the output on warp beam.
o The pressure of the feeding device comes from air-spring which ensures
pressing force even.
 Electric Control Cabinet
o The precision inverters and PLC integrated machine running and operation as
a whole. It correlates with MMI of headstock by network monitoring system.
o Electric control temperature indicator and alarm provided.
o Certain tanks are selected for running according to desired yarn counts and
colors.
o The adoption of electronic units conforms to international certification.
o One set of industrial air conditioner ensures inverters to be worked in the
environment of constant temperature.
 Beam Creel
o The bilateral brake control is connected with beam rewinding controller to
effect machine stability and automation.
o One set of beam creel with yarn accumulator provided for option. This
combination offers continuous dyeing, time and dyestuff saving.

Item Unit TAYA-7100 / TAYA-7200

 Digital control touchpad, high precision (11 -
Main specification
16 tanks)
Max. width mm 2,800
Max. diameter Mm 1,000 / 1,250
Front speed m/min 0.6 - 60
Rear speed m/min 3 - 40
Max. width between
mm 3,200
flanges
Dia.800 x
Quantity of cylinders 22 - 28pcs
2,000mm
Max. take-up tension N 8,000
Working width mm 1,800 (Applicable to loom width)
Max. evaporation of
Kg/hr 600 - 1,000
sizing
Max. evaporation of
Kg/hr 600 - 900
dyeing
TAYA-7100: 1
Numbers of size trough
TAYA-7200: 1 or 2
TAYA-7100: 2 dip 2 nip
Size trough padder
TAYA-7200: 2 dip 2 nip / 3 dip 3 nip
TAYA-7100: 800 - 1,000
Beam diameter mm
TAYA-7200: 1,000 - 1,400
Beam width mm 1,600 - 1,800
Quantity of beams 12-16
Installation power kw 116 - 136

DENIM sizing with KARL MAYER – perfect solutions for weaving

KARL MAYER’s warp preparation machinery for cost-

effective sizing in DENIM production
An overhead cylinder dryer
When Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis sold the first pairs of trousers with rivets on the pockets
as tough, hard-wearing work clothing to gold miners in 1872, they could scarcely have
imagined what treasure they had unearthed. The jeans, which were patented in May 1873,
soon made their way from being workwear to being the teenagers’ favourite, and then onto
the fashion scene. They have been setting the tone in the fashion world ever since – to a
greater or lesser extent. As the popularity of denim increased, steps were taken to improve the
production technology at every stage – from the weaving preparatory stage to final finishing.

Coordinated processing during weaving preparation

Direct beaming and sizing technology has a decisive influence on the economic aspects and
efficiency of the weaving preparatory stage. User friendliness can be improved and output
can be maximised if the same manufacturer is responsible for coordinating the machinery for
the direct beaming, dyeing and sizing processes. The processes involved in weaving
preparation must be coordinated with the weaving operations in order to optimise efficiency
throughout the entire production chain. To ensure that all the processes are coordinated with
each other, each processing stage must meet the requirements of the next processing stage.

For example, the sizing department must supply the weaving department with warp beams
having the following characteristics:

 the least number of yarn breakages, and preferably none at all

uniform yarn sizing
uniform and targeted sizing of the outer yarn
constant residual yarn moisture content, without any stickiness
no standing marks or marks caused by over-drying
constant yarn tension/elongation
high yarn residual elongation
no crossed yarns
low hairiness with no clinging
perfectly wound edges

In turn, the sizing department needs warper beams with:

 the least number of yarn breakages, and preferably none at all

no crossed yarns
constant winding densities and beam diameters
constant wound lengths
 constant yarn tension
very little dust and fly, and preferably none at all

KARL MAYER’s weaving preparation machines for use in processing DENIM can meet all
these demands optimally and reliably. To this end, the company has constantly been
developing its machines over many years and at every processing stage. Initially, the
machines were mechanical, but then they were changed over to being electrical and then
electronic, and now they are computer-controlled.
KARL MAYER’s weaving preparatory machines are now all perfectly coordinated with each
other. They enable the yarns to be transported accurately and uniformly, and thus ensure that
the residual running lengths are extremely short and identical, right to the end of every batch.
A high degree of reproducibility and machine availability is the prerequisite for the high
performance levels that these high-tech machines have already achieved in practice in the
textile industry.
Equipping the machines with KAMCOS® has contributed to the exceptional efficiency of the
warp preparation machines produced by the KARL MAYER Group. This well-thought-out,
standard platform for machine control consolidates all the computer operations, provides the
framework for intelligent networking concepts within the textile chain, and last but not least,
creates the right conditions for carrying out modern, transparent production operations.
The KAMCOS® control technology, together with the latest, patented conceptual solutions,
such as regulating the ‘diameter and pressure structure’, of a warper beam guarantee that all
the beams have the same diameter, batch length and yarn density. Warper beams having
identical characteristics are a prerequisite for carrying out high-quality, consistent dyeing and
sizing.

‘SMR’ sizing technology for the DENIM sector

Modern dyeing and sizing technology, which is developed with the emphasis on the
economic aspects of the process, greatly increases efficiency in both the weaving and
weaving preparatory processes, and also guarantees that energy and the sizing agents are used
efficiently. High-tech sizing operations produce high-quality, perfectly uniform, reproducible
warp beams, which are needed to fully exploit the high weft insertion speeds of modern,
high-speed air-jet, rapier and shuttle looms.

‘BC-A’ beam creel and ‘ABR’ controller

The yarn tension must be kept constant at all times during unwinding of the heavy warper
beams, which may have flange diameters of up to 1,400 mm. During machine downtimes,
emergency stops, periods of acceleration, and also once the production speed has been
reached, it is essential to avoid high tension peaks during the stoppages, together with the
associated risk of over-stretching of the yarns at the warper beam. KARL MAYER’s
machinery fitted with the KAMCOS® system, together with the associated data collecting
system and an efficient braking system, guarantee that this does not happen. A calculating
system incorporated in the KAMCOS® system continuously supplies values on the required
pneumatic braking and stopping pressure for the diameter of the beam currently being
processed. Correspondingly, the yarn tension measuring rollers (load cells) in the ABR
control system operate at a high resolution and with a high degree of precision. Flexible band
brakes equalise any fluctuations between the actual and target values quickly and reliably.
The band brakes are controlled by specially manufactured, low-friction roll diaphragm
cylinders; they equalise out both resonance and beam irregularities and thus guarantee
smooth machine running. This results in the shortest possible stopping times and distances,
which avoids any further yarn breakages and yarn spirals.
‘CSB/CSB-PW’ sizing technology

The SMR sizing machine is PC-controlled and operates with the latest ‘TRIPLE DIP &
DOUBLE NIP’ sizing technology in the shape of the CSB application technology. The
combination of the dipping/nipping technique, with highly turbulent application technology,
creates an integrated application system for the DENIM sector which, above all, conserves
resources.
At one time, two sizing systems had to be used when the yarn loading density was higher
than about 70/80 %, whereas now just one CSB application system is enough to size the
textile material constantly and uniformly at yarn loading volumes of up to 110 % without any
problems. Application baths having a low liquor volume and constant-pressure rollers
operating at up to 40 kN are used for sizing in this case. The CSB technology, which is
constantly being improved and revamped to meet the changing technological, ergonomic and
economic requirements of the market, was developed by KARL MAYER. The latest machine
features include:

 an ergonomic design for easy access, maintenance and cleaning

a size bath having a liquor volume that is up to 60% lower than in conventional techniques
advantages as a result of using high-quality, corrosion-resistant materials
bound textile transport during wet application
coordinated rubber-coated rollers for avoiding differences in circumferential speed and
resulting yarn displacement
optimised squeezing and wetting technology for achieving higher yarn loading volumes (of
up to 110 %) in the single-bath process
a reduction in energy consumption by using special smooth-running rollers and bearings
a modular system, both for ‘conventional’ and ‘wet-on-wet’ sizing with the option to retrofit
existing machines

CSB-PW ‘wet-on-wet’ sizing technology

The ‘wet-on-wet’ technique involves the additive application of sizes onto warp material that
has been prewetted with water.
To do this, the warp yarns run through a separate, special prewetting section with an
integrated, high-pressure squeezing arrangement and thus absorb up to 40 % warm or hot
water. The water, which is mainly bound by capillary action, prevents the size from
penetrating into the interior of the yarn. The advantage of this exterior yarn sizing technique
is that the sizing agents and dyes can be subsequently washed out more easily, and up to 20
% of the size can be saved.
The wet-on-wet sizing technology also features an integrated system for measuring the liquor
consumption, which can be combined with an optional online microwave monitoring and
control system, which avoids over-sizing and thus saves costs. Depending on the level, i.e.
degree, of sizing measured, the nip pressure is adjusted during the next processing stage
within a specific range to guarantee that the size adheres to the yarn as required. The fibres
and yarns are squashed together in the nip, which has a negative influence during the drying
stage. The yarn warp is fed to a wet section  to facilitate opening of the yarn layer by
improving the dissolvability and reducing yarn hairiness. It is important for at least two split
rods to be used here - for moving and slowly rotating the size.
During prewetting, the wash or wetting liquor containing the washed-out components builds
up to saturation point. The liquor can be discharged at preset intervals or rinsed with fresh,
hot water to remove the contaminants.
Cylinder drying technique with overhead dryer

There have been very few drying machines or drying systems that have been so successful
that there has been virtually no need to change their basic design. But cylinder drying is one
of these technologies. This efficient drying system was first introduced approx. 160 years
ago, and will lose none of its importance or dominance of the market in the future. The
reason for its past success was that it was extremely economical. The yarn is also transported
in an assembled form and it has positive effects on the yarn quality, especially during sizing.
The dryers in use nowadays (Fig. ) also avoid yarn abrasion and fibre and yarn hairiness
during warp dividing, which occur as the warp yarns rub against each other and during
opening of the warp yarns that are clinging together. Using Teflon-coated cylinders also
assists the pressing effect to reduce yarn hairiness and clinging.
Additional technical features of the modern cylinder drying technology are an adjustable, PC-
controlled temperature profile between the pre- and main drying sections to ensure that a
high-quality, elastic film is produced around the yarns. This excellent system for use in sizing
is complemented by an integrated, controlled cooling/discharge zone and a sensitive sizing
control system. The residual moisture of the material at the exit of the dryer is determined
using three, highly sensitive measuring rollers (> 3 % moisture) in order to monitor the
drying process. The actual moisture level is then compared with the target value and, if
necessary, a correction is made by automatically adjusting the production speed.

Warp beam production

Warp yarn storage devices are used in the drying zone when producing the warp beams,
which enable the sizing machine to continue running even when the beam is being changed.
The compensators are designed for handling warp lengths of up to 144 m. They give rise to
better and constant sizing values, without over-drying or standing marks, and supply the BM
beaming machine. The design of the beaming machine makes it extremely user friendly. For
example, the comb is arranged so as to permit easy access and, as well as facilitating yarn
leasing, also makes it easier to deal with any yarn breakages.
KARL MAYER’s technology enables beam diameters of up to 1,250 mm to be wound
without any problems. A linear comb traversing facility permits the warp or weaving beams
to be wound uniformly right up to the edges. The mechanical, high-speed reversal point of
the comb traversing mechanism prevents the formation of wavy edges during winding.
A sensitive, freely parameterisable winding tension characteristic (e.g. degressive winding)
and a high-speed 3- or 4-roller control device guarantee an optimum beam winding pattern
and the desired winding length. A freely programmable beam length pre-switching device
and a system for reducing the temperature when changes occur in the running conditions
complement the high-tech processing operations.

KAMCOS® drive and control technology

High-quality weaving warps are characterised by having consistently low, yarn elongation
loss values. To achieve this, the yarn distortion must be precisely monitored and controlled as
it runs through the sizing machine – a requirement that conventional sizing machine drives
based on a mechanical longitudinal shaft have not been able to meet for some time now. On
the other hand, modern sizing machines are equipped with frequency controlled multi-motor
or individual motor drive technology, and can set the yarn elongation accurately zone by
zone.

The yarn distortion forces and associated yarn sizing level can only be monitored and kept
constant by using this yarn distortion control system. Variations in sizing, especially in the 2-
bath process, can be equalised and eliminated by the KAMCOS®s own zone elongation
control system.
The KAMCOS® technology also provides the operators with extremely accurate information
on the tension and elongation values throughout the process and during different running
conditions. Subsequent fault analyses can also be carried out by producing protocols and data
reports.
KAMCOS® is therefore the ideal tool for customer-oriented process monitoring, and for
regulating the yarn tension and controlling the sizing parameters that are needed to produce
the perfect product for the market.
The KAMCOS® system is supplied with information by yarn tension measuring rollers, which
operate extremely accurately. The textile material is transported accurately, reliably and in a
constantly assembled form throughout the entire machine with the aid of specially integrated
smooth-running guide rollers. At the same time, this results in a uniform working width and
associated, homogeneous yarn loading volumes – which opens up a new dimension in terms
of product quality and reduced material waste (rejects, seconds).
The question as to whether a conventional or individually driven sizing machine is more
economical can be answered by looking at some practical examples, where it has been
possible to reduce the overall yarn distortion values by as much as 0.6 % using the modern
KAMCOS® control technology, and also to increase the production speed.

Chemicals used in Sizing:

PVA
Polyvinyl Alcohol
respect. It also has strong affinity for cationically charged organic ions of the quaternary
ammonium type.

Untreated, PVA sponge will neither support the growth of bacteria nor molds, nor will it
destroy those organisms. Foam packaged wet may be treated chemically to inhibit
bacteria or mold growth.

Rust stains may be removed in the same way; as they are from cotton using a solution
of oxalic acid, or citric or tartaric acid. Sodium hypochlorite solution (domestic bleach)
degrades the sponge.

AMI•Cell™ PVA Material

Advanced Meditech’s specially formulated AMI•Cell™ PVA materials have these

advantages:

 Ultra fine pore materials minimize adhesion

 Continuous open pore structure results in superior softness and greater
patient comfort
 Smaller compressed sizes ease insertion and allow optimal positioning
within the body
 Extremely fast wicking
 Highly absorbent
 Cost effective
 Biocompatible

Depending on the characteristics desired, Advanced Meditech International, Inc. uses

both particle replacement technology and “whipped air” technology to form the pores in
our PVA foam. For particle replacement PVA products, we use a starch granule which is
then processed out, leaving very consistent, evenly-sized pores.

For some other uses, we use "whipped air" technology to form PVA pores. For this
process, we essentially use air alone to form the pores, resulting in somewhat less even
pore size. However, whipped air process has its advantages. It is possible to produce
much larger pore size PVA than with particle replacement technology. The other
advantage is that PVA made without particles does not require these particles to be
processed out.

For medical-grade PVA made using particle replacement, final processing is very
important. Any residues left on the PVA following processing can hydrolyze and
otherwise interact with tissues and fluids within the body. Advanced Meditech’s final
processing of the PVA material results in a an extremely low level of acetylization. This
means essentially that there are fewer residues on AMI•Cell™product so the risk of pva
residues interacting with body tissues and fluids is reduced.

Advanced Meditech’s production facilities are ISO certified. We are constantly looking for
ways to improve our products and processes. Our efforts at continuous improvement are
a reflection of Advanced Meditech’s commitment to quality and our clients.