Chapter 1 1

Greige Department

Greige Department
 Chapter 1 2
Greige Department

The fabric comes from the weaving unit in this department. In

the gray department the fabric are coming in two forms namely roller
form and bale form the packing list are attached with the fabric and
with piece detailing. There are two type fabric coming in greige, own
fabric and commercial fabric. The main purpose of grey department is
inspection of the fabric.
The other purposes of grey fabric are:

1. Fabric receiving;
1. Report receiving and storage report;
2. Inspection;
3. Issuance.

1. Fabric Receiving:
First of all the fabric comes from the weaving mills
through transportation. The weaving mill handover the all documents
to finishing unit by means of transportation incharge. In these
documents all specification of fabric are presented e.g.
1. Quality;
2. Bale No;
3. Construction;
4. Blend;
5. Roll No;
6. Selvedge;
7. Weight etc.

2. Report receiving and storage report:

The collector reports the received fabric to the greige
department incharge. The documentation is saved as for record. After
that the fabric is forward to storage or for directly inspection.
3. Inspection:
The fabric is inspected to find the ratio of errors occur
during manufacturing of fabric. In the gray department we have to
inspect 10 percent of fabric. These defects are classified into three
types:
 Chapter 1 3
Greige Department

1. Avoidable and unavoidable

2. Major and minor
3. Mendable and unmendable
While most of the faults in the fabric are avoidable some are
unavoidable such as certain floats/smashes. Faults such as weft crack
is considered to be a minor if it is within 1-2 cm while the same faults
is major when it is more than 2cm. Certain defects such as isolated
snarls could be mended while the others such as big cracks are
unmendable.
The most common or general faults are mentioned below:
i. Contamination: Presence of the any other fibers along with the
original fibers in the fabric is called contamination. Mainly
polypropylene, hair, jute etc. are some common
contaminations.
ii. Cockled yarn: Fluff or any material pressed by machine in warp
or end is called cockled yarn. It forms hard surface.
iii. Color variation: At some places color is found different then the
actual one.
iv. Oily weft: When weft or pick yarn is oily then it is called oily
weft.
v. Black end: When end or warp is black may be due to oil is
called black end.
vi. Count variation: In this case warp or weft may be thick or thin
then the count shown in the construction. In this case cloudy
like appearance occurs.
vii. Courses pick: One thick pick or weft is called course pick.

Some mechanical faults are given below:

i. Short miss pick: If pick or weft is missing at any point than it is
called short miss pick.
ii. Short double pick: In this case two yarns in pick are found for
short distance.
iii. Short end: Any warp or end may be missing.
iv. Double end: In this case double yarn is found in warp direction
rather than the single one.
v. Miss pick: A pick or weft yarn is missing.
vi. Double pick: Double weft yarn is inserted by loom in a single
stroke.
 Chapter 1 4
Greige Department

vii. Starting mark: When loom starts after a short stoppage it

produces a pattern on fabric in weft direction called starting
mark.
viii. Wrapping marks: It is just like starting mark but here the
surface become very hard on weft side,
ix. Oil stains: It is the spot of oil dropped on the fabric from any
machine part.
x. Loose ends: Warp yarn or end comes out of fabric and not
properly interlaced, it does not remain straight and goes in
zigzag way.
xi. Sizing stains: It is like oily stain but more opaque then oily
stain.

Some important mending faults are mentioned below:

i. Hanging thread: Any thread hanging in the fabric is called
hanging thread.
ii. Mending: If slub is taken out or kink is pulled out then a space
appears in fabric and called mending fault.

there are some faults may occur in selvedges also, these are given
below:
i. Curled selvedge: caused due to incorrect balance of cloth
structure between body and selvedge.
ii. Cut/torn or burst selvage: it is due to selvedge sticking to emery
roller or damages caused by temple roller.
iii. Loopy selvedge: when the selvedge or cut the race board felt at
the reed and the weft is caught on this groove when the slay
beats up.

iv. Rugged or ragged selvedge: when the variations in tension of

the selvedge ends.
v. Slacked selvedge: caused due the incorrect balance of cloth
structure between the body and the selvedge.
vi. Tight selvedge: caused due to incorrect balance of structure
between body and selvedge, selvedge yarns woven at high
tension.
vii. Uneven selvedge: when variation in weft tension, lack of control
on number of selvedge ends uneven selvedge is produced.
 Chapter 1 5
Greige Department

Analysis Of Faults

The methods employed for analysis of fabric defects are

1. First piece inspection

2. Grey inspection
3. Point rate system

1. First piece inspection:

The first piece of the newly gated loom is
Taken to the grey folding departments and is inspected fir design
verifications. The report is immediately sent to the weaving
department and if there is any defect the the necessary changes are
made.

2. Grey inspection:
Fabrics are tested in grey state after weaving. In the
grey inspection the fabric faults are identified and mended if they are
mendable.

3. Point rate system:

It is an American system. Two most commonly
used point rate systems are

• 4-point rate system

• 10-point rate system.

4-point system:
Given by American standard ASTM,the test
method describes a procedure to establish a numerical
designation for grading of fabrics from a visual inspection.
This system does not establish a quality level for a given
product, but rather provides a means of defining defects
according to their severity by assigning demerit point
values.
 Chapter 1 6
Greige Department

Length of defect Points

3 inches or less 1
3 - 6 inches 2
6 - 9 inches 3
9 inches 4

Points to be remembered while using 4-point system are:

1. No running yard shall be penalized more than 4 points for warp
and weft faults.
2. For Fabric width exceeding 64"-66",Maximum penalty points can
be increased above 4 per linear yard in proportion to the
width.
3. Defects appearing within one inch of either edge shall be
disregarded.
4. Any hole other than a pin hole shall be considered a major defect
and assigned 4 points for penalty.

4. Issuance:
According to production planning and control department the
production planning card is send to greige department according to
this card the fabric is unroll and send to pretreatment department.
 Chapter 1 7
Greige Department

Department mechanicals:

INSPECTION FRAMES
No of machines : 3
Company : AL-HADDID (PAKISTAN)

ROLLING & UN-ROLLING MACHINES

No o machines : 1, 1
Company : HSING CHENG (TAIWAN)

WINDING PROCES
In this process the fabric are wind on batch’s because they are
suitable for further process. The winding is achieved through the
winding machine because the fabric are in roll or bale form they are
difficult to process therefore we are done winding and suitable for
further process. And forward to pretreatment department.