Professional Documents
Culture Documents
september.10
T H E F O O D I S S U E
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September 10.indd 13 8/30/2010 12:08:01 PM
September 10.indd 14 8/30/2010 12:08:07 PM
September 10.indd 15 8/30/2010 12:08:13 PM
*
uptown
Shelly Shepard, Charlotte native Matt Bryan Reed is a man Balance, in life, as
an editor/writer, Kokenes didn’t have of simple interests— in meals, is the key
called The Charlotte enough to do with a among them, words, to success. Balance,
Observer home for newborn boy at home, records, movies, and and perhaps a little
over 10 years, writing so he is now handling adjusting to life as a juggling!
headlines and copy sales for Uptown grownup (whatever Ask Sue Bartlett.
editing countless Magazine and along that means). Since When she isn’t at work
front-page stories. with a partner, he has graduating from UNC- advocating for better
Wanderlust has taken formed Trafk Media, Chapel Hill’s School mental health, in the
Shelly from teaching a new marketing of Journalism and kitchen designing
English in Prague, agency in town. He Mass Communication, delicious meals for
to living in a hut in has also jumped back Bryan’s been living her clients, hiking in
Thailand. into the writing world the dream, working as the mountains with
If not working, and is writing the the assistant editor of her husband, Tom,
chances are you’ll find ongoing serial fiction Charlotte-based music or giving cooking
her hiking. short story Duplicity. magazine Shuffle and lessons, she’s writing
Professionally, Shelly’s Check it out starting freelancing for several (and eating) for
at home with a page on page 54. publications, includ- Uptown Magazine.
of words in front ing Tiny Mix Tapes You can e-mail Sue at
of her, a mouse in and several weekly suebartlett@carolina.
hand and a deadline newspapers across rr.com, or visit her on
looming. the Carolinas. the net at suechef.biz
16 uptown www.uptownclt.com
www.uptownclt.com uptown 17
18 uptown www.uptownclt.com
For over 10 years, Allen Tate Center City has remained committed
to what’s most important: hard work, honesty and results.
We have the tools and technology that are only available to an
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SOUTHEND - 2135 SOUTHEND DR (Behind Chipotle) 704.632.8012 | STONECREST 704.752.9787 | BALLANTYNE 704.926.7000
www.uptownclt.com uptown 19
Advertising
Matt Kokenes
704.944.0551
Executive Editor
Sherry Thien
Contributing
Editors
Peter Reinhart (Food)
Contributors
general disdain for nuclear proliferation.” I threw in Sue Bartlett
that last one for comedic effect, but the other two are Jenn Burns
real. But while watching yet another exciting Dora Matt Kokenes
episode, waiting for it to end and for tubby time to Bryan Reed
begin, I noticed that AFTER the show there is an Shelly Shepard
The question I’ve been asking myself a lot lately is, interlude sponsored by Chuck E. Cheese’s. DAMN! It’s Little Shiva
how can I raise my girls to not be the stereotypical not really a commercial, but it’s still something that
American consumer and to just be happy with what probably involves subliminal messaging and implants Photography
they have versus anxious about what they need to a desire for bad pizza and future consumerism. Jim McGuire
get. I am powerless against Dora and the interludes Todd Trimakas
It doesn’t help that I think Chuck E. Cheese’s is between Dora, sponsored by all the corporations George Lainis
like a gateway drug. At 4, it starts with, “Daddy, can I planting messages in Kate’s head. And what happens
go to Chuck E. Cheese?” – and then, before you know when the floodgates open and she graduates to Cover Art
it, at 16, it’s “Daddy, I NEED these $400 pair of Dolce & the regular cartoons embedded with so many Jim McGuire
Gabbana jeans.” It’s hard enough to say no now, and commercials that it’s hard to tell the difference
Kate is just getting her game on. When she REALLY between the show and the commercial? Distribution
wants something, she’ll cozy up to me, grab my face, Living the Quaker life seems a bit extreme, and Sean Chesney
give me kisses on my cheek and say, “pleeaassse, growing up, kids who couldn’t watch TV at home
Daddy?” Most of the time, it doesn’t work – but would come over to my house and watch so intently Office
sometimes, she suckers me in. And by sometimes, I that they seemed to absorb the rays emitted from the 1600 Fulton Ave., #140
mean 90 percent of the time. television cabinet. We already read every night, and Charlotte, NC 28205
This last time she popped the question, I asked she runs around all day at school. I can’t just not have Contact us at
her, “Where in the world have you heard of Chuck E. TVs in the house! My only respite from the world is info@uptownclt.com
Cheese’s before?” The shocking surprise was that she Netflix from 9:15 to 10 every night. I’m at a loss. Uptown Magazine
had heard it on TV. I guess just like selling my 1974 Toyota is a trademark of
I thought the TV network Nickelodeon had my Landcruiser after getting married, I’ll have to Uptown Publishing
back with Nick Jr. – you know, no commercials and compromise. At home, we’ll only eat good pizza from inc., copyright 2009.
programming created to negatively influence the the Pizza Peel, buy her jeans from the Gap and Mom All rights reserved.
young mind. It even has these monologues before the can take her to Chuck E. Cheese’s. Uptown is printed
shows start that deliver a warm and fuzzy directive monthly and
to any parent who might be passing by. Something ~Todd Trimakas subscriptions are $15
like, “Dora the Explorer promotes understanding of Publisher annually and can be
the Spanish language, interracial cooperation and a Todd@uptownclt.com purchased online at
uptownclt.com.
20 uptown www.uptownclt.com
September 10.indd 21
Tranquil_Uptown_0910.indd 1 8/30/2010
8/17/201012:08:36 PMPM
2:01:50
>
Mountain” (Relapse)
Stepping Up
T w o N . C . a r tists mo v e to b i g g e r l a b els
September 10.indd 22
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8/30/2010 12:08:39 PM
Sky Sailing – “An Airplane Zo! – “SunStorm” (The Foreign S. Carey – “All We Grow”
Carried Me To Bed” (Sky Harbor Exchange Music) (Jagjaguwar)
Records/Universal Republic)
D.C.-based R&B producer Zo! might Slow and lonesome, like an empty
Sky Sailing, Adam Young’s pre-Owl not conjure the same fame as a Midwestern highway, S. Carey’s
City project (reissued, presumably Timbaland or Swizz Beatz, but his album-length love letter becomes a
to capitalize on the Owl City buzz) compositions, buoyed by a bevy close replica of how it feels to miss
won’t convince the naysayers. But of hip-hop and R&B’s alternative someone. The Bon Iver sideman’s
for the thousands who bought into luminaries – YahZarah and Phonte, solo debut is a quiet triumph
Young’s nice-guy croon and polite for example – reveal a sophistication of awake-at-night musings and
melodies, Sky Sailing is just one and sensibility uncommon in the heartaching hopes set to gracefully
more handwritten note from the shy Top 40. repetitious washes of sound.
songwriter, just less the electronic
doodads.
Git Some – “Loose Control” Electric Sunset – “Electric Charles The Osprey – “Consider”
(Alternative Tentacles) Sunset” (K) (Friction)
From the demise of post-hardcore With humid electro-pop more This Michigan duo’s debut LP
mainstays Planes Mistaken For suited for a basement party than an plays with veteran finesse, tossing
Stars, Git Some bursts like a bald uptown club, Electric Sunset fights off mind-melting math-rock like
tire, careening wildly and shattering sinking into the receding chillwave it’s three-chord punk. The head-
burly hard-rock riffs into needle-like foam by turning Toro Y Moi’s scratchingly talented outfit’s
crystals littered across the blacktop. melodic mirages into late-night greatest gift, it seems, is less in its
But this crew’s noise rock is as delirium, less sunsoaked days than prodigious application of musical
reined in as any other’s and keeps hot, sticky nights. Hints of Daft Punk gymnastics to instrumental rock
the song ever at its center, a much- stomp make this effort’s pulse a bit than in its ability to obliterate the
needed gyroscope in a disorienting stronger, too. notion of what just two instruments
spree. are capable of.
23
September 10.indd 23 8/30/2010 12:08:45 PM
words & pictures:
jenn burns
26 uptown www.uptownclt.com
www.uptownclt.com uptown 27
Chefs come and go – sometimes just such as getting fired, which happens a lot
as we’re learning to love their food in cities such as San Francisco and New
and have become regulars at their York, but not so often here in Charlotte,
restaurants. Sometimes they open their where chef and owner egos are more
own place, move to another city, leave under control.)
because of “creative differences” with It’s a challenge to win over not
the owners or perhaps it simply comes only the regular customers, but also the
time to retire. Pity the new chef who loyal kitchen staff and the sous and line
has to take the helm of a restaurant chefs who remain behind. Sometimes
already stamped with the popular style things get better than they were under
of a predecessor. (Well, maybe pity is a the previous regime, inspiring the regular
little strong – there are far worse fates, diners to stick around and new followers
to join the throng. But sometimes folks so Uptown contacted both of the new
yearn for “the good old days, and the chefs: Anoosh Shariat of Mez, who
menu we loved before Chef So-and-So rolled the dice and relocated from
messed with it.” Louisville in June, and Bill Schutz,
Two popular center-city restaurants who joined Sonoma about a year ago,
recently went through executive chef having already had a local following
makeovers: the EpiCentre’s innovative from his stints at Bentleys, as the
Mediterranean-themed Mez, and the special-events chef at Johnson & Wales
Trade and Tryon locavore mainstay, and as executive chef at the Ballantyne
Sonoma, which serves American regional Country Club. We asked them both the
bistro fare. So far, word on the street same questions, and here’s what they
has been positive about both changes, had to say.
32
September 10.indd 32
uptown www.uptownclt.com
8/30/2010 12:09:08 PM
C
mez’s carolina flounder with vegetable medley
Uptown: You’ve taken over the kitchen of to Charlotte, even
one of the city’s most popular restaurants. before I started
Tell us a little about your culinary journey working on the new
and how you ended up here. menu, was to study
Anoosh: I have spent nearly 20 years what our customers
in Louisville as chef and owner of some were ordering and,
of the most respected restaurants in the then, really work
city. Prior to coming to Kentucky, I spent the dining room
years cooking in Germany, Switzerland getting to know
and in the American Southwest. Because them. I wanted to
of some family and friend connections in get feedback on
North Carolina, I have been interested in what they liked. The
this region of the country for a long time. last thing I wanted
Charlotte has a very vibrant dining scene to do was take off
and the team at Mez has been doing some signature favorites.
exciting things since they opened two I also really
years ago. The timing just worked out for listened to my team,
me to move to Charlotte and take over the both in the front
kitchen. and the back of
I feel that I am a very creative chef the house, to get
and I like a challenge. Moving to a new their input on what
market after having built my reputation for had worked well in
two decades in Louisville will definitely the past and what
provide a challenge! I am so impressed needed to change.
with the team at Mez and the abundance of My goal was to
ingredients from this region, so I think the add more regional
chance I have taken will pay off. influences, but at
the same time, keep
Uptown: Can you describe the culinary the focus of the menu. We launched our flavored foods like what Bruce Moffett at
vision that you bring to the kitchen? How new menu in July with about 60 percent Barrington’s or Tom Condron at The Liberty
do you convey that vision to your team new items. We are now (at the time of is serving. There are also some great
and what kind of challenges have you this interview) in the middle of summer, restaurants in the Uptown and SouthPark
encountered in trying to implement it? when fresh produce is abundant, so we areas.
Anoosh: It is all about the flavor and really work to incorporate the freshness
creativity for me. I have an affinity for of summer into the menu. Some of the Uptown: What kind of food legacy would
combining regional ingredients with items featuring local products include you like to leave for those who follow you,
European flavors and techniques. The summer gazpacho, seared tuna with smoky and how would you like to be remembered
amazing abundance of local artisanal ratatouille and red onion marmalade, pan- by those who eat your food?
producers, farmers and small food roasted Ashley Farms chicken with summer Anoosh: As a chef, you want to be on the
manufacturers here in North and South succotash, saffron orzo, pomegranate glaze, cutting edge of the culinary world but at
Carolina has gotten me really excited about and a cold-smoked pork chop with stewed the same time stay true to your passion
developing the new menu throughout the okra and Asiago stone-ground grits. and mission for cooking. During my tenure
seasons. The previous menu at Mez was in Louisville, I built a reputation with my
more globally inspired, and I am adapting it Uptown: When you go out to eat, what guests that made them more comfortable
to include more regional products. kind of food do you prefer and what other with trying new things. I like opening
restaurants in town serve the kind of food my guests’ minds to something they
C
Uptown: Can you describe your strategy that inspires you? may not have chosen based on their past
or game plan on how to introduce your food Anoosh: One of the things that drew experiences. I look forward to cooking for
to the menu without losing the restaurant’s me to Charlotte was the vibrant culinary the folks in Charlotte and hope they will
regulars? How much of your predecessor’s community. Since I am new to town, and enjoy what my team and I can bring to the
menu have you kept and what did you am working hard to launch my own new table. U
tweak to make the items your own? menu, I haven’t had the opportunity to go Reach Peter at recipetesters@yahoo.com
Anoosh: The first thing I did when I moved out a lot. I like to eat creative and well- For more info, go to uptownclt.com
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First, there was a fruit fly. And a glass of sherry. The fruit fly, having a thirst for something sweet, made a beeline
for it (forgive the mixed metaphor). Determining that it was every bit as good as he had imagined, the fly told all of
his friends. They flocked to try it.
Next, there was an Andalusian tavern owner whose guests also had a thirst for the lovely, sweet sherry, but
who had to fight off the flies for the right to drink it. In fear of losing his paying customers to the freeloading flies,
the host devised a way to protect the sherry. He covered each glass with a slice of bread. Problem solved – no
more fruit flies.
The grateful guests adored the absence of the flies, loved the deliciously sweet sherry, but needed a little
38 uptown www.uptownclt.com
Life is short and waistlines grow. You need a
way to experience all of it without looking like
the Michelin Man.
Invention: The evolved tapa, better
known as the small plate!
Small plates are a collection of hot or
cold appetizers that make up a snack or a
full-fledged meal. And, if the number of new
restaurants in Uptown that serve tapas is any
indication, their popularity is growing. What
began as cured meat on a slice of bread has
been, in truly American fashion, adapted to fit
an ever-increasing range of cuisines. Some
inventive chefs are even taking their most
popular entrees, adjusting the size of the
portions and serving them as small plates. The
appetizer, or starter, is no longer the warmup
act for the main performance. It has become a
star in its own right.
Although you can find small-plate
restaurants practically anywhere, they seem
to thrive best in areas where the residents
consider walking half the joy of living there –
just like Uptown Charlotte. Strolling from place
to place and enjoying the sights and sounds as
day turns to evening creates an atmosphere all
its own. And a walk between courses has the
added advantage of working off a few calories
before the next glass of wine and small plate.
An obvious question arises whenever the
word “small” is used in relation to food. Will I
go home hungry? Can a person with a normal
appetite actually be satisfied by a tapas-style
meal? There are theoretical answers to these
questions, but who needs theories. We want
facts. And so, with the aide of a few friends, I
did some research. On two separate occasions,
we ate our way through five small-plate
restaurants, each with very different styles.
And, like all good researchers, we kept notes:
bruschetta
wild mushrooms
dandelion market
proscuitto crustini
40 uptown www.uptownclt.com
press
enso
evening unusual.
Cuisine: Asian fusion.
Group choices: Asian barbecued
2 1 grouper bites (panko breaded and perfectly
flash-fried; sauce did not overpower the
delicate fish); jumbo lump-crab spring rolls
STOP (creamy and packed with crab); green curry
beef yakitori (spicy without being painful);
enso kalbi lettuce wraps (meltingly tender beef, tiny
Location: Epicentre. edible nasturtiums – a dish both beautiful and
First impression: delicious); Chilean sea bass sashimi (unusual
Elegant. Stylish. A restaurant fit presentation, but flavorful).
for a very special occasion. Most unusual menu item: Duck
Waitstaff: Warm and egg rolls.
welcoming. Well-trained in the Overall impression: Presentation
art of making the guest feel was impeccable! This cuisine is perfectly
special. Knowledgeable. suited for small-plate dining. Takes Asian
Wine list: Extensive and fusion to a new level.
calamares de cabrales
solé
chorizo salteado
V-Day Minus 1:
Meat. It’s what’s for dinner at my house.
And lunch … and occasionally, breakfast
(Canadian bacon, anyone?).
But, a few weeks back I decided that, for one
week, I, Shelly Shepard, was going to embrace
vegetarianism.
My mom’s response when I told her about my
plan? Well, let’s just say I can’t remember when I’ve
heard her laugh so hard (she actually seemed to be
giggling) or for so long.
My brain battled with my belly about the
48 uptown www.uptownclt.com
There’s an EXECUTIVE
on the 59th floor who needs his bonus.
Presented by:
october 8 - 9, 14 - 16
Knight theater
Tickets: 704.372.1000
140
ncdance.org
50 uptown www.uptownclt.com
www.uptownclt.com uptown 51
The warehouse squatted in a light industrial park Deville and a brown mesh trucker hat. He gave us
like a rusty red toolbox forgotten in a pile of waist- a tour of the place, along with a lengthy explana-
high weeds. The building was divided into four tion of why the machine shop that had just moved
units, and at the front of each unit sat a heavy steel out hadn’t renewed the lease. We only needed 10
door next to a loading dock. The entire place had minutes to see that the space was exactly what we
as many windows as a Chicago speakeasy, and wanted, but he needed an additional 20 to explain
unchallenged vines and kudzu nearly swallowed that his children and grandkids, who “only lived
up our end unit. It was perfect. Under the name G up the way in Greensboro,” didn’t make it down
& R, LLC, our new make-believe screen-printing to Charlotte to visit him much. “I know they’re
company, we’d leased the 3,000-square-foot space really busy,” he reminded us several times. Rob’s
from a leathery old man named Ben. Three weeks German shepherd, Dane, sat nearby, listening
ago, Ben had pulled up in his late-’80s Cadillac patiently to Ben’s story.
* “Duplicity is an ongoing fictional series. Any similarity to actual people or events is purely coincidental.
54 uptown www.uptownclt.com
www.uptownclt.com uptown 55
56 uptown www.uptownclt.com
m a g a z i n e
www.uptownclt.com uptown 57
creation
64 uptown www.uptownclt.com
PISCES
Morton’s – $$$ Dilworth Billiards
227 W.Trade St.- Carillon bldg. 704.333.2602 300 E. Tremont Ave. 704.333.3021
Outback Steakhouse – $$ Dixie’s Tavern
SUSHI
1412 East Blvd. 704.333.2602 301 E. 7th St. 704.374.1700
Ruth’s Chris – $$$ DoubleDoor Inn
222 S. Tryon St. 704.338.9444 218 E. Independence Blvd. 704.376.1446
Sullivan’s – $$$ Ed’s Tavern
1928 South Blvd. 704.335.8228 2200 Park Rd. 704.335.0033
Evening Muse
S U S H I 3227 N. Davidson St. 704.376.3737
Fox and Hound – $
Enso – $$ 330 N. Tryon St. 704.333.4113
210 E. Trade St. 704.716.3676 Hartigans Pub – $
Fujo Uptown Bistro – $$
301 S. College St 704.954.0087
601 S. Ceder St.
Hawthorne’s NY Pizza – $
704.347.1841 All Sushi Rolls
KO Sushi – $$ 1701 E. 7th St. 704.358.9339 Under $10
230 S. Tryon St. 704.372.7757 Howl at the Moon – $
Nikko – $$ 210 E. Trade St. 704.936.4695 Drink Specials
1300-F South Blvd. 704.370.0100 Jillian’s SouthEnd – $
Pisces – $$ 300 E. Bland Street 704.376.4386
Nightly
1100 E. Metropolitan Ave. 704.334.0009 Loft 1523 – $$
Room 112 – $$ 1523 Elizabeth Ave. 704.333.5898 Serving until 2am
112 S. Tryon St. 704.335.7112 Madison’s – $$ (Thurs-Saturday)
Ru-San’s Sushi – $$ 115 Fifth St. 704.299.0580
2440 Park Rd. 704.374.0008 Morehead Tavern – $
12-10pm
300 East Morehead St. 704.334.2655 (Sunday)
T A P A S Mortimers -$
210 E. Trade St. 704.334.2655 ½ Price Bottles of Wine
Arpa Tapas – $$$ 704.372.7792 Phil’s Tavern – $
121 W. Trade St. 105 E. Fifth St. 704.347.0035 Every Monday
Cosmos Cafe – $$ 704.372.3553 Picasso’s – $
300 N. College St. 214 N. Church St. 704.331.0133 1100 E Metropolitan Ave.
Pravda – $$ Suite 120
V E G E T A R I A N 300 N. College St. 704.375.8765
Charlotte NC 28204 704-334-0009
Presto Bar and Grill – $
Blynk – $ 445 W. Trade St. 704.334.7088 Free Parking www.piscessushi.com
200 S. Tryon 704.522.3750 Ri-Ra Irish Pub – $
Dish – $ 208 N. Tryon St 704.333.5554
1220 Thomas Ave. 704.344.0343 Selwyn Pub – $
Something Classic Café – $ 2801 Selwyn Ave. 704.333.3443
715 Providence Rd. 704.347.3666 Stool Pigeons – $
214 N. Church St. 704.358.3788
V I E T N A M E S E Suite – $
210 E. Trade St. 704.999.7934
Pho An Hoa – $ The Attic – $
4832 Central Ave. 704.537.2595 200 N. Tryon St. 704.358.4244
The Corner Pub – $
B A R S 335 N. Graham St. 704.376.2720
The Forum – $$
Amos SouthEnd – $ 300 N. College St. 704.375.8765
1423 S. Tryon St. 704.377.6874 The Gin Mill – $
Apostrophe Lounge – $$ 1411 S. Tryon St. 704.373.0782
1400 S. Tryon St. 704.371.7079 The Penguin – $
BAR Charlotte – $ 1921 Commonwealth Ave. 704.375.6959
300 N. College St. 704.342.2557 The Pub – $
Big Ben’s Pub – $$ 710 West Trade St. 704.333.9818
801 Providence Rd. 704.334.6338 Thomas Street Tavern – $
Buckhead Saloon – $ 1218 Thomas St. 704.376.1622
201 E. 5th St. 704.370.0687 Tilt – $$
Cans Bar – $ 127 W. Trade St. 704.347.4870
500 W. 5th St. 704.940.0200 Town Tavern – $
Cedar Street Tavern – $ 200 N. Tryon
120 N. Cedar St. 704.333.3448 Tremont Music Hall – $
Connolly’s on 5th – $ 400 W Tremont Ave. 704.343.9494
115 E. 5th St. 704.358.9070 Tutto Mondo – $
Cosmos – $$ 1820 South Blvd. 704.332.8149
300 N. College St. 704.375.8765 Tyber Creek Pub – $
Coyote Ugly – $ 1933 South Blvd. 704.343.2727
521 N. College St. 704.347.6869 Vinnie’s Sardine – $
Crave the Dessert Bar – $ 1714 South Blvd. 704.332.0006
501 W. 5th St. 704.277.9993 Whiskey River – $
Dilworth Bar & Grille 210 E. Trade St. 704.749.1097
911 E. Morehead St. 704.377.3808 Wild Wings - $
210 E. Trade St. 704.716.9464