History of

d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Garden site as of
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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Step one-Bush hogging the site of the garden within

the 3.1 acres

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Site cleared and now the trees and roots are removed

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Naz students clearing rocks from the site

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Moving large rocks from the site

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Installing 2 5’ x 20’ raised Flowers planted

Beds for Flowers

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Site plowed

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Garden site disced and ready to plant winter wheat and

timothy grass as a cover crop for the winter season
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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Boy scout eagle scout

project Troop 31
Installation of a arbor
entrance to the garden

Town of Penfield installs

An 8 space parking lot
On the south side of
garden

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010
Mission Statement
The Penfield Community Victory Garden (PCVG) Committee
proposes to establish a community garden on Town of Penfield’s
property on Five Mile Line Road to provide Penfield residents with an
opportunity to grow their own organic vegetables, flower and herbs for
their consumption or for the needy. The community garden connects to
Penfield’s rich agricultural heritage, Go-Green initiative and will provide
for children’s educational activities. The management of the garden will
be provided by the volunteer committee.
Rules and guidelines for the operation of

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Benefits of Community Gardens:

-Improves the quality of life for people in the garden
-Provides a catalyst for neighborhood and
community development
-Stimulates Social Interaction
-Encourages Self-Reliance
-Beautifies Neighborhoods
-Produces Nutritious Food
-Reduces Family Food Budgets
-Conserves Resources
-Creates opportunity for recreation, exercise,
therapy, and education
-Preserves Green Space
-Provides opportunities for intergenerational and
cross-cultural connections

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Penfield Community Victory Garden Rules and

Guidelines

1. The basic fee for a garden plot is $35 for a 6’ x 16’

single plot and $50 6’ x 32’ double plot payable to
Penfield Recreation Department.
Payments for garden plots are due before March 31st.

2. Preference for plots assigned the previous season

will be allowed up to March 31st.

3. Plots must have evidence of planting by June 30th of

each year or be forfeited to someone on the waiting
list.

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010
4. The garden is open sunup to sundown.

5. All plots must be kept free of trash, weeds, etc., by

the plot holders. Box and bag any trash from your
plot that cannot be composted and carry it out.
This is a carry-in carry-out facility.

6. The compost pile should only be used for vegetation

material . Please follow posted compost
guidelines if you are unsure of what can be put I
into the compost pile.

7. All gardeners must keep plants and mulch in their

own plots. Don't let your plants or weeds creep
into the pathways or into your neighbor's plot.

8. Keep the Penfield Community Victory Garden

pathways free of trash 15
 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

9. Be a good neighbor and be respectful of other

gardeners.
No stealing of anything is permitted. Should it
become known that you have taken anything
vegetables, tools, hoses, plants or anything else;
you will lose your plot immediately.

10. No vegetation owned by the town should be cut or

damaged.

11. No use of chemical pesticides or herbicides.

12. Conserve the use of water.
13. No pets allowed except for service animals.
14. Please supervise young children that you bring to the
garden and allow them only on your plot or public
areas.
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15. If you a unable to tend your plot due to medical or

personal reasons please contact Penfield
Recreation department ASAP.

16. Please park only in parking area, do not drive over

grass or gardens.

17. There are no public facilities available at the

Penfield Community Victory Garden site. Please
use the facilities at Rothfuss Park located north
of the garden on 5 Mile Line Road.

18. Crops must be harvested once they are mature. If

you do not feel you can use all of them, there
are many food banks and citizens who could
use extra vegetables.
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19. By October 1st the committee must be contacted

about plantings that you are continuing to care
for over the winter.

19. After the last frost everything but viable crops or

plants must be removed from the plot.

20. The committee encourage you to join The Penfield

Victory Garden Committee and value your
suggestions
.
21. Please use the Penfield Victory Garden Committee
suggestion box for comments.

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Gardening 101
 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Buy quality seeds

Buy good quality seed and use it while it is within the use by date.
date.
Some seed does not keep well (carrots in particular).
It's best to buy fresh each year for most purposes. Or, learn to
save your own seed. This can be a great way to save some extra
money and have seeds to trade with friends and acquaintances.

Collect seed from mature plants that you have deliberately left to
flower. This is worth doing only if you can spare the space as
mature plants can take up quite a bit of room and you cannot do
much else with the ground until the seeds have ripened.
Growing requirements are provided on seed packets, in catalogs,
and on nursery tags, as well as in books on growing vegetables.

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 Seed Planting Chart
d & c boyer 3/12/2010
All numbers are approximate. * Since you cannot expect 100% germination, be sure to plant extra seeds

Plant per 4
Type Spacing Seeds Needed* Seeds/oz Seeds/gram
Persons
Asparagus 9" to 12" 32 plants 32 1300 46
80 to 120 foot
Bush Beans 4" to 6" 360 90 3
row
Beets 4" 60 foot row 180 1000-2750 37-99
Broccoli 24' to 30" 12 to 15 plants 15 5000-9300 174-330
Cabbage 24' to 36" 12 to 15 plants 15 2750-10500 99-370
Carrots 2" to 4" 40 foot row 240 11000-24300 385-850
Cauliflower 18" to 24" 12 to 15 plants 15 5000-9300 174-330
Corn 8" to 12" 140 foot row 210 135-400 5-6
Cucumbers 8" to 36" 6 to 8 plants 8 1000 35

Kohlrabi 6" to 8" 12 to 15 foot row 30 7300-9300 257-330

Leaf Lettuce 12" 20 to 30 foot row 30 26500 935

Mustard 6" 3 to 4 plants 4 13125 462

Green Onions 1" to 2" 10 foot row 120 13000 440
120 to 160 foot
Peas 2" 960 100 3
row
Peppers 18" to 24" 6 to 10 plants 10 4300 154
Pumpkins 36" to 48" 3 plants 3 185 6
Radishes 2" 20 foot row 120 2000-4500 70-160

Spinach 12" 10 to 20 foot row 20 1500-4000 50-150

Squash 36" to 48" 3 plants 3 260 10

Tomatoes 24" to 36" 10 to 15 plants 15 10000-11875 350

Turnips 4" to 6" 10 to 15 foot row 45 7800-15300 275-530 21

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METHOD OF GROWING
Planting in open soil or plant in raised beds? Preference is raised beds,
because the soil warms quicker, remains warm longer, and this method
provides better drainage.
You can accomplished a raised bed vegetable garden by simply
mounding the soil or by actually enclosing the soil in wood frames,
decorative stones, or concrete, etc. to earlier maturity. Either way, the
depth of the raised soil should be 8 to 12 inches above ground level.

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Penfield Community Victory Garden: simple raised beds
Simple and inexpensive raised beds can be constructed from regular 2” x
6” pine untreated lumber and 10-18 inch rebar lengths.
Purchase and cut the lumber to fit 6 foot width and 16 foot length garden
plot. Purchase rebar rods and cut into 10- 18 inch lengths
Set 2 x 6 boards around 6’ by 16’ garden plot and pound in an 18 inch
rebar rod at each corner of the raised bed and fill with top soil 8 to 12’
above ground.
18 “ rebar lengths pounded 2x6
into soil boards
On outside of the boards

Top view
Side
view

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SOIL PREPARATION
Another of the key factors in successfully growing vegetables
is proper soil preparation. To your existing soil add generous
amounts of organic humus. Compost, peat moss, well rotted
manure or processed manure (the bagged stuff) are all good
forms of organic humus. Mix the organic humus thoroughly
with your existing soil. Then you are almost ready to begin
planting. By the way, if you bring in topsoil to enrich or add to
to
the existing soil, be certain to add organic humus to it too.

Soil pH can vary even within a few feet, though not usually by
much. Normal pH values range from 5 to 7.5.
If your soil is within that range you should be
able to grow most things. The best pH value for growing
vegetables is about 6.5 to 7.

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Amend the Soil

Adding compost increases the amount of critical
organic material in your soil. It retains water and
provides nutrients. It also sustains bacteria and fungi,
protozoa and nematodes, mites, springtails,
earthworms and other tiny creatures found in healthy
soil.

Amending soil is also the way to change it's structure.

Work 3-4 inches into sandy soil, 2-3 inches for clay
soil. Add 1 inch each year to silty
soil.

Since compost retains water more

efficiently, amending the soil will
also improve drainage in sandy or
clay soils. 25
CHOOSING THE CROPS AND AMOUNTS TO GROW d & c boyer 3/12/2010

It's important to base the types of vegetables, and number of pl plants,

ants,
inch
on the eating habit of your family. You want to utilize every in ch of
space by growing the crops that meet the desires and needs of yo your
ur
family. Next, you want to choose varieties that grow, mature and yield
in western New York.

If you are wondering how many vegetables to grow for the average
family four, here is a general outline of a few of the most popular
popular
ones:
Asparagus 30 to 40 plants Beans, a row 15 to 25 feet
feet long
Beets a row 10 to 15 feet long Broccoli, Brussels sprouts
sprouts and
Cabbage 10 to 15 plants each Carrots a row 20 to 30 feet long
Corn a row 20 to30 feet long
Lettuce a row 10 to 15 feet long Peas a row 30 to 40 feet long
Pumpkins/Squash 1 to 3 plants Radishes a row 4 feet long
Rhubarb 1 to 3 plants
Spinach a row 10 to 20 feet long Tomatoes 10 to 15 plants
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LAYOUT d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Now that you have decided to garden at PCVG, next you have to
decide which crops and how many plants you are going to grow. It It's
's
time decide where they best fit in your garden plot. The tall cropscrops
such as peas, beans and corn, should be planted on the north sid sidee
of the vegetable garden. In this way they will not shade the res restt of
the vegetable crops. In our case plant them on the east side

In the center of the plot, plant the medium sized crops such as
cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, tomatoes, squash, pumpkins and
other mediums sized crops.

Then at the very western side of your plot

where the low growing crops like radishes,
carrots, beets, lettuce, onions and other
low growing ones are planted.

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Garden Plots layout

North
East

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Typical garden planting layout

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Another popular style is potager, which mixes flowers in

together with herbs and vegetables in an ornamental
fashion so that the garden is both functional and
ascetically pleasing. Many vegetables also thrive in
containers, so you can use containers around your plot.

By taking a little time in planning the layout of your

vegetable garden now, before planting, your chances of
harvesting a more bountiful yield this summer and fall are
greatly increased.

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Schedule plantings around the two main growing

seasons : cool (spring and fall) and warm (summer).

Common cool -season vegetables include beets,

broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, peas,
potatoes, radishes, spinach and turnips.

Common warm -season crops include beans, corn,

cucumbers, eggplant, melons,
peppers, pumpkins, squash
and tomatoes.

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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010
Vegetable Planting Guide Worksheet
General guidelines. Growing times can vary greatly depending on the seed variety
you select. Check seed packet for exact growing and planting times.
times.

1. Write “Date of Last Frost”

Frost” for your region in the space provided below.
(See: www.almanac.com)
www.almanac.com)

2. Using a calendar, calculate the “planting date”

date” by adding or subtracting the
number of weeks listed from the “Date of Last Frost.”
Frost.”

3. Calculate the “Sow Date”

Date” by subtracting the “Growth Period”
Period” from the “Planting
Date.”
Date.” (Sow Date is the date to sow seed indoors or in a greenhouse for
for
transplanting into the garden after the last frost.)

*Seeds can be direct-

direct-sown in the garden soil. (Other seeds will need to be started
indoors or in a greenhouse, or can be purchased as small plants at planting time.)

Write in
Planting Date
Date of Last Frost_________________
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Seed/Plant date to sow growth period weeks Set out date date planted
planted
Beans* 8 to10
Beets* 8 to 10 2-3 weeks after
Broccoli 6 2 weeks before
Brussels Sprouts 6 3 weeks before
Cabbage 6 3 weeks before
Carrots* 8 to 10 1-2 weeks after
Cauliflower 4 to 6 2 weeks before
Collards 4 to 6 4 weeks before
Corn* 2 to 4 2 weeks after
Cucumber* 2 to 4 1-2 weeks after
Eggplant 6 to 9 3 weeks after
Lettuce 4 to 7 1-2 weeks after
Greens* 5 to 7 Soon as soil can be worked
Okra 4 to 6 2-4 weeks after
Onion* 8 to 10 2-3 weeks before
Parsley 8 to 10 2 weeks before
Peas* 8 to 10 4-6 weeks before
Peppers 8 to 10 2 weeks after
Potatoes* 10 to 20 2-3 weeks after
Pumpkin* 3 to 4 2-3 weeks after
Radish* 4 3-4 weeks before
Spinach* 6 to 7 3-6 weeks before 33
 d & c boyer 3/12/2010
Sow some seeds directly in the ground as they grow best that
way: beans, beets, carrots, chard, corn, lettuce, melons, peas,
pumpkins, squash and turnips. Starting seeds is, of course, much
less expensive than planting seedlings sold in flats, packs and
pots.

Companion Plants in the Vegetable Garden

There are some plants that, when planted close together, will
benefit each other. Likewise, there are certain combinations of
plants.
plants that will inhibit the growth of one or both types of plants.
Here are a few combinations to avoid:
avoid:
Potatoes – inhibit growth of tomatoes and squash
Beans – inhibit growth of onions
Broccoli – inhibits growth of tomatoes
Carrots – inhibit growth of dill
This isn’
isn’t to say that you can’
can’t grow these plants together in the same garden,
just don’
don’t grow them right next to each other.
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Plant Good Companions Bad Companions
Basil
Pepper, Tomato, Marigold

Bush Beans
Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Corn, Cucumbers, Eggplant ,
Lettuce, Pea, Radish, Strawberry, Savory, Tansy, Marigold
Onion
Pole Beans
Carrots, Corn Cucumber, Eggplant, Lettuce, Pea, Radish,
Savory, Tansy
Beets, Onion
Beets
Bush Beans, Cabbage, Onion, Sage

Cabbage Family
Bush Beans, Beets, Celery, Onions, Tomato, All Strong Herbs,
Marigold, Nasturtium
Strawberry

See handout sheet

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Watering
Vegetables need a bit of extra care when it comes to watering.
Consistent watering will produce successful results.

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How to Fertilize Vegetables Organically d & c boyer 3/12/2010
Use organic fertilizers for the constant supply of slow-
slow-release nutrients
so that your vegetable plants will thrive.
Step 1
Know what organic fertilizers to use for vegetables, and where toto place
them. Build soil with slow-
slow-release, elemental nutrients, then nourish
plants at key points in their growth.

Step 2
Begin a new vegetable garden by feeding your soil and worms at least
least
one month before planting time.

Step 3
Dig in extra manure to a depth of 6 inches, then plant perennial veggies
like asparagus, horseradish and artichokes. Water them in with
compost tea so they'll be well-
well-established for many seasons.

Step 4
Plant seeds or transplants of your favorite annual vegetables. Mix Mix up
some compost tea or fish emulsion (at half-
half-strength) to water in plants,
tall..
but wait to use it on seedlings until they sprout to 1 inch tall
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 d & c boyer 3/12/2010

Step 5
Provide additional fertilizer - called side-
side-dressing - as annual
vegetables grow. Read up on the crops you're cultivating, and
know that your goal is continuous sturdy growth to flowering
and fruit.
Step 6
Use fish emulsion (mixed full strength) twice a month on leafy
greens. Wait for tomatoes and corn to reach 1 foot tall, then 3
feet tall to side-
side-dress twice with a balanced granular organic
formula - keep feeding tomatoes after each flush of fruit.
Step 7
Pull back mulch around the base of plants, then put fertilizer inin
a circle 3 inches away from the stem. Or open a trench an inch
deep along the middle of a double-
double-planted row.

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Tending Your Vegetable Garden

A vegetable garden requires regular maintenance. Vegetables
won’
won’t wait until it’
it’s convenient for you to water them, stake them
or harvest them. Some tasks, like staking and mulching, can be
done early in the season. Others, like watering, will be ongoing.
ongoing.
then
The last thing you want to do is go through all this work and then
see your vegetables going to waste.

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Pest management.
Pest control is a vital part of vegetable gardening. The last thing
thing
yourr
you want to do is start spraying all kinds of concoctions on you
food. The trick is to stay on top of the situation and take the
appropriate steps when necessary. This is what is
called Integrated Pest Management or IPM.
Pest management also entails protecting your corps from
animals-
animals-deer, woodchucks, chipmunks.

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Have a successful gardening season