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Woman's Art, Inc.

Christine de Pizan's "Treasure of the City of Ladies": A Study of Dress and Social Hierarchy
Author(s): Laura Rinaldi Dufresne
Source: Woman's Art Journal, Vol. 16, No. 2 (Autumn, 1995 - Winter, 1996), pp. 29-34
Published by: Woman's Art, Inc.
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1358572
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I

CHRISTINE DE PIZAN' S
TREASURE
OF THE CITY OF LADIES
A Study of Dress and Social Hierarchy
By Laura Rinaldi Dufresne

After I built the City of Ladies with the help and by the command- tures base their images upon a loose interpretationof her text and
ment of the three ladies of Virtue, Reason, Rectitude and Justice, in more traditionalvisual models, for example,Jan van Eyck'sbride
the manner explained in the text of that book, and after I, more than in The Arnolfini Wedding (1434). Painted by male artists inter-
anyone else, had worked so hard to finish the project and felt so ex- preting a female authoritywriting primarilyfor female patrons,
hausted by the long and continued exertion, I wanted only to rest these later miniaturesoffer a unique opportunityto examineways
and be idle for a while.' in which gendered identities are constructedin a specific context:
Christine'suniquevisionof a College of Ladies.
So education
begins Christine de Pizan's fascinatinghandbookon the
of women, The Treasure the Ladies
The Treasurewas dedicatedto Margaretof Burgundy,the old-
est of the six daughters of John the Fearless. At age eleven, in
of City of
(1405).2 Like much of women's work, it was created out of 1404, she was marriedto the French dauphin,Louis of Guyenne
overwhelming weariness. The rest she so deserved after finishing (who died in 1415 before becomingking), and moved to the noto-
The Book of the City of Ladies, her history of women, was imme- rious court of France, ruled at that time by Charles VI and Is-
diately interrupted by the impatient virtues who flew to her bed- abelle of Bavaria.Christinemay have writtenthis book of instruc-
side and accused her of indolence. "Hear our lectures, and you tion at the urging of Margaret'sfamily.'2In fact, she encourages
will accomplish good work," they explained.3 The Treasure of the educationalreadingin The Treasure:
City of Ladies had been called everything from a courtesy book,
a behavior manual, and a "mirror"for Princess Margaret of Bur- Thislady will gladly read instructivebooksaboutgood manners
gundy, to a feminine foreshadowing of Machiavelli. It became a and behaviorand sometimesdevotion,but those aboutindecency
model for guidebooks written by and for women for the next few and lubricityshe will utterlyhate and not wish to haveat her
centuries.4 Christine de Pizan's book, however, goes beyond court. Shewill not permitthemto be broughtinto the presenceof
mere instruction. She also vividly describes and passionately ad- any girl,female relativeor womanin her court,for thereis no
dresses the lives of each class of medieval woman, from princess doubtat all that the examplesof good or evil influencethe mindsof
to prostitute. those men or women who see or hear them.'3
Like many sumptuous books produced for the aristocracy,
Christine's texts often were beautifully illustrated. One of the first The dedicationto Margaretplaces The Treasurein the literary
vernacular authors to supervise the copying and illumination of traditionof writingson the formationof the perfect prince, or in
her books, she produced a vast number of writings for members of this case, princess. Many of the survivingmanuscriptshave some
the French court between 1390 and 1429. The lesser-known Trea- connectionwith Margaretof Burgundyand her five sisters, all of
sure of the City of Ladies is sequel to the more famous Book of the whom made politically powerful marriages,thus disseminating
City of Ladies.5 Eight of the twenty-one extant 15th-century The Treasure to other areas of Europe.14 The significance of
copies of The Treasure are illustrated.6 women book ownersand medievalmarriagecustomsin the cross-
Christine chose and supervised the miniaturists for all her fertilization of artistic styles throughout Europe cannot be
texts.7 The only contemporary woman artist she mentions by name overemphasized.Younggirlswere often forced to move to distant
is Anastaise, whom she praises as "learned and skilled in painting lands to live with their futurehusbands.They traveledwith an en-
manuscript borders and miniature backgrounds."8 Unfortunately, tourage of guardians, fine goods, and many dowry books from
scholars have not been able to identify which miniatures Anastaise their mothers.15
executed.9 Indeed, the identification of individual artists or even Christinede Pizan is an example of just such an international
workshops is difficult for many medieval manuscripts.?0 exchange, though she followed her father from Italy to France.
Images of women during this period usually reinforce their Christinewas born in Venice in 1363. Her father was the physi-
subservient role." In the case of The Treasure, however, it is a cian to King CharlesV of France, and she grew up at the French
woman who defines that role and image. Christine's text outlines court, where, at her father'sinsistence, she received a thorough
the prescribed behavior for women, and the images she supervised educationin the classics. Her troubles, as well as her literaryca-
provide women with visual images of those women who embody reer, beganwith the death of all her male protectors:KingCharles
that behavior. The miniatures are concordant with the message of V in 1380, followedby her fatherin 1389, and soon after,her hus-
Christine's text, which, however ster, is never demeaning. band, Etienne de Castel, one of the King's royal secretaries.At
Unlike "The Three Virtues Return to Christine with New Or- twenty-five she was a widow with three children and an aged
ders; the College of Ladies Is Established" (1405; Fig.l), the only mother to support.She began workingas a scribe, claimingFor-
miniature supervised by Christine herself, most of the later minia- tune changed her into a man to enable her to supporther family
FALL1995 / WINTER 1996
0
tlhrongl intellectual pursuits. edire ((ti historxv al( hirio Calilitxvto
Christiule's first lite,rarv effoirts r' ', ':%~~~~' writt. Tihex' assist her il hbtilding
were co(lx'Ventionallo(]-' ballads _~.,.~.~..-. ... ~.~...~, a ctt lt-' xxv'olltt. a fem'!inine
(dexote(l to tihe smorrowof widow- . ,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~' utopia tntaledbv thie \'irin Marv
hood(. With tiilt' slit' expaided iand pospilate l bvt xi rtlitios
to a wider varietv of' sllubljects.all
approved 1bvher coi,rtl pattrons. ttho Isaslret'
s -c owf it' Ciit of(
Hletr most Iunusualstldject. how- ~iiI,.~~1
ladic.s s io tl(laua stci(t1e tao
of
'ver. was her defieist' (wmx'elI. theis rltoepialt xisio . ('lir istilte
SlIe attacks the itlstituitio(n of' tox-es itroi lh'tr role as lhistOriai
chlivalrv ill thle "Letter to the
(;od of: Love" andtt misog\ liVNii
t-7i:L to tlhose of' cotlllS(eh,'r ani educ'a-
tondr.' 'l'turististlat's tlt ie-
lier letters (ol "Tlhe Romlance (of sci s s. lip icdeal lat( otfnrteuge t.o
th]e Rose" and tlIfe'nds the cmn- Ii sltield x(otiwoent'rot aiise bluit
tr'ibltitin of x(womltento historv in edlsiates
(asiooal, thltlle l' to fulc'
TVi Book of ihu Cii! of Ladies.
(Christine liked to haxve lier
v()xolities illustrated. Shel direct- ip'77-
Its purpose
l-ri. is (l to- earth.
('(1 the co(stitiiiti1 of' tIl' figures Fig. 1. The City of Ladies Master, "The1ThreeVirtuesReturn to Christinewith al practic al, Thess .
(litactic'
ill the linillatllrcs.
c.ol(silin sillm- New Orders; the College of La( dies IsEstablished" (fr405), e i
lniatlores tpic' a(rlIries-
ll slhol
ple. straightforward Italialuate tempera and gold leaf on t.
parchment Courtesy Boston Public Library. tine a mbain cofntact tiw e of sle
stvle rather tiltli the fi'ssv em- xirttes.
i As' tociteite(l in tle il-
bellisled x'ersions pri'ef'erredin French \vorkslhops. Tlis call 1be histrations et'e. thle also show the estalisl (if.
s'eries et of a
seen in thle earliest mtiniature illustiratiiig /Th' I'ra.src. "The lectitres
fc)or xW'tite xx'ithit
thi e co'lfileps of the citv.llox tritas-
Three \'irtues Retlurn to( Christine" [Fig. 1). C:lristillt . the figure f'Ormed into ai
otehrdie collecge.
witli ide.tical harolcrowns oe1r therics ociled xxorld.
po(itificatillg firom tlle canopied bed Ion the I(eft. is co()sttitied ill a The earliest smurx'ix'ittg titittiattite ofi/' t'rt'.as'ti'c wias paiintedl
itmitiieur sititilar to thiat found in portraits of(' ier (dutilt]iglher life- tIInder :Christinl(e'ssiperx'rVisioMtI hwTiei City (if,Litdi('s .XIaster('. As in
time: atro'al blic c)tehardie'" xwithshort. square-etlded hilaiing thte openitig ' The1Cit. tw
ttiiai,ttiretohle paitltitIg
co()i]taillas so'p-
sleeves ovr' a darke'rude'rgowi antiidta wlIite 1oit(e1d I'headdress. sofe
aratllege s. Th activitv (if th' Prologeleftt. is describe attthle
These gar'lieiintsreflect lie'r itlm(destilanilln'r f'dressillugisas xvidoxw (Chtristite rt'ecliiiesont a Led xwitlhin a rathelr c''atlpi(pd inttetior. try\-
o(f a c'omi'tclerk and als(o make lier instaintlv r'couitnizable to the ing to rest aftelr fitislting The Citj. Inmpatitlitvirtltes c'ro)d hx her-
viewer.'- Such ita t mannei' of dress was inl ccm .rUance \'itl ietr own Lb(dside. xvx'ariin( vxar-iatiotus (3f the fashtionahle li hoiipp'la]imd':' Mid
view's (onsensible dress. Fashlionm waxsdalitgei'ros hbecause'it c'iitin- c()tehaarcdie.. with itdet]tical go()l c'ixowns ovxei'tlielir coiled h1l(otkle
uall' chalgwed.requiring bo()thmen and xmxinento acciumillate debt bLmns.One p1lls (Clristin]e fironti liefl1. e(ttjlijoimiig]'t' to get to
in dtlerto la'e t hel, atetst"fihncv."" work hbtfore slie fldllspmr'yto the sxx'eetsitig(itf lazint('ss:
D)resswas zaliiltin(edliatevistualindication of'social positioil dii]r-
ilng thie lat'e-tle(ldiev'\alperiiod. so illuic' l s) tllat tli' ;aristocrat's Then I receired from them this command: Take your pen (nd write. te
s and dart'ing h(co(llett( \were
sitlluptuous displav (f' fitr-. fiabric. tllos. Blessed trill the!y be in our city to swell the number of citizens of
nifiiickedl bv w'ealthy mte(ibers of('the millddleclass ill defiaclle (f 'irtue. May all the feminine college and their devout community be
var'iouis sullll)tlua' law\s.' C(hristine.an advl\(cateof'(dressitllg\witlhin appraised of the sermons and lessons of wisdom.'
sstioi.a lddlrsses this pro()let'mstlernlly ill /' TreaSl.re: "'Let
o(ie's stati
uis supp(ose. tf'()re(xalple. tliat a w()Iollan is (f' excellent The coiiitiiiiiiitv of this hi'm)ininecollege aiplx'at'sotl the tight side
c'haracter...lbut Io oic will believe it. as slie is of the mtiliiatulrc.i'eceiviitg a serillolt fI'Itll I)aine
seen w'earing abi(eclthing her sta- P'iidetce. a f'igiit' to0t '(mltd ill The
tio]. "2
C'osti] I' ad( demeanor
aiii.e-B a]e i
c''ic'ihilto tituderstalldig thle'vi- (:h'istin' claitits thlat PIruldeltce
emtii({idis ith gr('rat('st virtnie a
this period-w hlat 'schllars
B~Cil! oif ' * Ciamllc
'-Mit ctti tivatia'. aid it is
(osti.sut(eI istiorv havxecalled "- -Shewxholectulres tlh stitdetnts.
mtetaphltical mode ti ettimblem-
i The threevxirttes 'roin T'fc'Citi,
itic sigmnificance" flr social this- act its ittstigratttrs. !]t','dling
Chlristita' to tst' lw'l intttlh'ct to
ilt titfii'st mimniature illts- tltin]kaid xxr'itt'xxvlat she k,oxxws
trating Th' Boo/ of'it Ciii, of'
Ladies C(iistitu' broiids in de- (:Col'g' of' of Ladies. liovexver.
spairi'Ciecause( so n11a\l'';eat in- ilitist f'it'st inistriuct. lax lug the
tellects ihave ptroclaimltiedtihat fo0uti1datiuit fin' xOiC)'ti thro1itgh(
womewl's le]a\vior is ftill ()fB aMd'iceald cou'sel sit that tlhx
vi'c." Stltdd(el\. o(I a al)eiit ()fi hl b/itize'ls
_max xo'fltx ('it of die
light. three liavx'ltlx ttutses. (Citxof'
oLa(ds.
lieasots). Rectititde'. atl(i justice. Fig. 2. Masterof the Amiens200, "Th ie Callegeof Ladies IsEstablished-Dame This tiniiatttre is the fIt'stil-
arrive to hielp lier comtulbattlhat PrudenceLectures to a Class of Prir
ices ses and Future
Queens"(c. 1460), ltstration of' ( :lristitt"s xision of
c'ic'Jlutsittonxwithl iter xnxi\ktlt()\l- temperaand gold leaf on parchment.(Courtesy Beinecke Library,Yale University. ai Collt ege of' Ladi's. Shle i1l-

WOMAN'S ARTJOURNAL
cludes eleven women of different so- by their amiable grouping, animated
cial rank seated to the front and side ; - air, and sumptuous costtumes.
,-?::~.~
of Prudence at the lectern. Prudence ^',:" The eighteen figures divide into
wears a fur-lined cloak and gown as four groups: in the brick tower, on
well as the robes royale.' Gold rays the bridge, and on both river banks.
radiate from her crown. The students In the toNwerare the three virtues and
represent all the classes that the three Christine, easily identified by the dis-
parts of The Treasulre instruct. Four shades
arious tinctive blue and rose costumes they
crowned queens or princesses sit on wear in the miniatures in both Brus-
either side of Prudence. To the left sels manuscripts. This depiction de-
and to the right, visible in profile and parts fromithe narrative setting estab-
placed in a position of honor close to - _ lished by the text and found in the
the lectern, are two aristocratic earlier Boston Librarn edition. Only
women. The one at left wears the the three virtues remain, but they
fashionable and costly bourrelet play a far less important role in The
headdress of padded rolls of fabric. Treasure than they did in The City.3:
The woman to the right wears a tradi- The students are still grouped ac-
tional white vertical headdress, like cording to class, as is true in all but
the one always worn by Christine.28 Figure 4. On the high bank are the
This woman may be either a highborn ladies of royal blood. Not only are
servant of the court, like Christine, or ), "ClassesforMiddle
Fig.3. Masterof theAmiens20C Class they larger and placed higher in the
andLower
an aristocratic matron or widow Women"(c. 1460), tempe
era amnd
gold leaf on parchment. composition than the others, but
dressing conservatively. Seated on a Courtesy BeineckeLibrary,YaleUniversity. their gowns are bright with embroi-
long brown bench, their backs to us, dery or brocade patterns of rose and
are five ladies of various social statuses. Three wear hoods with various shades of blue. Their hennins, collars, cuffs, and hems are
long liripipes2"and simple gowns. Two, with vertical headdresses, trimmed with ermine or miniver. The bourrelet of the Boston Li-
wear costly houppelandes. bra,r miniature has merged with the early vertical headdress to
The ladies discussed in the text-princesses, aristocrats, mer- form the preferred mid-century headgear, the tall hennin swathed
chants, artisans, and laborers-are identifiable by their dress and in veils. The smaller size and simpler gowns of the ladies below in-
placement within the miniature. The artist, under Christine's direc- dicate their status as lesser aristocracy. Members of both groups
tion, duplicates the conventional notion of social hierarchy advocat- lean, posture, and glance at one another and back at the city in a
ed by Christine throughout the text. However hierarchic the place- lively rather than formal manner. It looks like the College of
ment, all attend the College of Ladies. The lectures are designed to Ladies has just been dismissed, the students now ready to take
make women from all classes citizens worthy of the City of Ladies: their newfound wisdom out into the world. The four women on
the bridge are of the merchant class, colorfully and fashionably
First of all to the queens, princesses and great ladies, and then on dressed in gowns of crimson, jade, and sapphire. Their stiff white
down the social scale we will chant our doctrine to the other ladies veils, folded and pinned to fall low over the forehead, indicate
and maidens and all classes of women, so that the syllabus of our their middle-class status. The veils replace the hoods with liripipes
school may be valuable to all. Amen."' - worn by the working class in Figure 1.
In spite of this imaginative illustra-
In "Christine and the Three Virtues tion of a scene never described but
Dismiss the Classes of the College of certainly implied in The Treasuire, the
Ladies" (c. 1465; inside back cover), a poor women, servants, and laborers to
miniature from a later Flemish version
of The Treasure, we find one of the
a whom Christine devotes special atten-
tion in the final portion of her writing
most imaginative and complex inter- are absent from the miniature.:' As the
pretations of (Christine's College of author states in this section of the text:
Ladies. It is the last of three miniatures
devoted to The Treasure found accom- We intend everything that we have laid
panying this particular manuscript.3' down for other ladies and young women
The Brussels miniature eliminates the concerning both virtues and the man-
patterned background of the Boston agement of one's life to apply to every
Library manuscript in preference for a woman of whatever class she may be. It
modern landscape dominated by the is said as much for one woman as for
city itself. Cone is the explanatory another, so each one takes whatever
scene with Christine resting: Instead, part she sees pertains to her."
she waves from a high turret in the col-
lege-castle. Absent, too, is the interior The miniatures created by the Mas-
setting of tlhe classroom with its main
lecturer, Prudence. Instead, we have
*-"------t
T- i m
- -
m n
I ter of the Amiens 2(X)(c. 1460; Figs. 2-
3) may have been for the edition of
an edifice filleld with active women. Al- Fig. 4. Utrechtor Guelders Workshop, "Classes for All Women" The Treasure in the librarv of Anne of
though the figulres overpower the ar- (c. 1430), tempera and gold leaf on parchment. France.35 The standard format for illus-
chitecture, tils awkwardness is offset Courtesy KoninklijkeBibliotheek, The Hague, Netherlands. trating this scene lhas altered. The first
FALL1995 / WINTER1996
0
miniature interprets the action of the Prologue. The second, "The ativelydressed.No brocadesor ermineor sable, the fursrestricted
College of Ladies Is Established-Dame Prudence Lectures to a by sumptuarylaws to the nobility,are evident. Only the tight-fit-
Class of Princesses and Future Queens" (c. 1460; Fig. 2), illustrates ting green dresses of the young girl with the dog and the woman
the College of Ladies-but neither Christine, the lectern, nor the behind her betray the latest fashion. The laborers and serving
virtues are present. The composition of the original Boston version women that Christinespecificallyincludes in the final section of
has been reversed, and the nine highborn students now face the the text are not representedby the artist.
viewer, as does Prudence. Here the artist seems conscious of the The additionof two childrenand a dog in this miniatureconsti-
reader's gaze and has transformed the miniature into a stage. Patri- tutes a delightfultouch. The toddler, most likely a girl given the
cia Simons calls the gaze "a metaphor for worldliness and virility." natureof the text (boys and girls dressed similarlyuntil about age
In western European culture men gaze and women are gazed up- six),wears a blue robe and seems more captivatedby the dog than
on.3 This convention is now reversed, for women are the likely gaz- the lecture. Christineadvisesworkingwomen:
ers at miniatures in The Treasure. Even so, the illustration express-
es the behavior society expects from women. Christine's mediation, Tohavetheirchildreninstructedand taughtfirst at schoolby edu-
translated through her own life experiences, softens that message. catedpeopleso that they mayknowGod...itis a greatsin of moth-
The princesses sit around Prudence, who wears an unbelted ers andfathers,who oughtto be the causeof the virtueandgood
gown of gold and is seen, for the first time, standing on her at- behaviorof theirchildren,but they are sometimesthe reason(be-
tribute, the serpent of wisdom, here painted a vivid green. It is she, causeof bringingthemup to befinicky and indulgingthemtoo
according to Christine, who, through education and wise action, has much) for their wickedness and ruin.39
come to personify a woman's most valued virtue. The royal ladies
are distinguished by their brocade garments of gold, blue, and crim- "Classesfor All Women"(c. 1430;Fig. 4), a provincialvariation
son, and all conform to 15th-century standards of feminine beauty. of The Treasure,offers an informativecomparisonto the aristo-
With eyes downcast and hands locked inside the cuffs of their cratic miniaturesof the Masterof the Amiens 200. Althoughthe
sleeves, they listen demurely to Prudence. Christine advocates the originalowners are unknown,The Hague manuscriptis now be-
traditional passive demeanor required of women in society, even lieved to have been producedin an areaof the Netherlandswhere
from the highest-born princess: She must "behave respectably and a sister of Margaretof Burgundymarried and settled, carrying
speak softly, her conduct will be kindly and her expression gentle with her a copy of The Treasure.4Four miniaturesillustratethis
and pleasant, greeting everyone with lowered eyes."7 Through word volume.
and image, the female reader learns how to behave. In Figure 4 the three virtuesand six studentscrowdawkwardly
All manner of complex headdresses-turbans, blunt hennins, into a vaultedinterior.The virtues stand at the left, holdingtheir
steeple-shaped cones with wire constructs-can be seen on the attributesand gesturingenthusiastically.Indeed, all the figuresap-
nearly hairless plucked foreheads of these mannered beauties. pear animated.Even their gazes have lifted-all look directly at
They mirror the headgear worn by the highborn ladies emerging their lecturers.
from the college in the Brussels manuscript. The six students,ladies of differentrank,sit cozily together on
"Classes for Middle and Lower Class Women" (c. 1460; Fig. 3), the floor in a relaxingof the hierarchicaltradition.Althoughthe
like Figures 1 and 2, takes place in a classroom, but this one is seg- princess,distinguishedby her full red robe, gold crown,belt, and
regated by social status. The students, six women and two chil- collar hung with bells, sits prominentlyat the front of the group,
dren, sit in an open circle facing the reader-a circle of inclusion, this miniaturecreates the most comfortablemixingof the classes
a visual reinforcement of the text. The virtues sit high on a bench, seen in any of The Treasure miniatures. The harmonious tone
and the message of their lectures forms the text. The composition agreeswith Christine'sinstructionson the requiredcourtesiesbe-
of the miniature supports that message and invites the reader to tween a queen or a princessand her ladies:
participate in the discussion, to join the other students.
The women on the floor before the virtues wear a bright array In the privacy of her chamber she will wish each of them to choose
of colors; reds, blues, and spring greens. Several wear the coquille, freely whatever she likes from all respectable merriment, and she
with its square visor above the forehead, commonly worn by wives herself will laugh with them and divert herself in private gatherings
of clerks and counselors attached to a great house. Their robes are so unconstrainedly that they will praise her great liberty and indul-
loose fitting, with wide sleeves, all indications that they are from gence and they will love her with all their hearts.41
the wealthy middle class. In Part III of The Treasure Christine ad-
dresses the merchant class pictured in this miniature, the premise Behind the princess,seated casuallyon her stool, are three ladies
of which the Master of the Amiens 200 adhered to carefully: wearinga varietyof reticulatedheaddressesand turbans,leaning
forwardeagerlyto hear the lecture.At the lower right,a womanof
The third point that we want to tell you about-you towns-dwellers the lower-middleclass in a black cape and unbuttonedhood sits
and women of rank in fine towns-concerning your garments and cross-legged on the floor. Like the working women in Figure 1,
clothing, is that you must not be extravagant, either in the cost or in she too has a long liripipe hanging from her hood. Two other
the fashions ....This is what makes the pomp and luxurious clothing women in similar costume listen near the door.
multiply and increase every day, because each person is trying to The Hague miniature illustrates Part II of The Treasure, which
outdo the other-by which many people are ruined in France and is devoted to instructing ladies of the court and manor. Rectitude
elsewhere.38 gestures and points to engage her students. This relaxed grouping
of the upper and middle classes on the floor is unique. The artist
Christine's arguments against extravagance in dress are as much illustrated all the women addressed in The Treasure rather than
based on financial concerns as on the sin of vanity. Considering just those specified in Part II. Although the princess is seated in
that duringthe 15th centuryfine Italiantextilescost as much as a front, the atmosphere of the class is relaxed and familiar, hardly a
jeweled necklace, her warningsappearquite practical.Following frozenfrieze of figuresarrangedaccordingto rank.
Christine'sadmonitions,the women in this miniatureare conserv- Christine de Pizan was no revolutionaryattemptingto attack
WOMAN'S ARTJOURNAL
e
the class system with The Treasure of the City of Ladies. Instead, 6. Theeight illustrated
copies of TheTreasurecan be foundin Boston,
she concentrated on the inherent value of women's work and their PublicLibrary MS. fr., med. 101, 1405-10; Paris,Biblioth6queNationale
contributions to their families and communities as suited their fr. 25294, 1412-25; Brussels,BibliothequeRoyaleAlbertler. 9551-2,
rank and responsibilities. Although outraged at women's precari- 1420-30; TheHague, TheKoninklijke Bibliotheek,KBMS. 131 C 26, c.
ous status within society, she elected to combat this state with 1430; London,BritishLibrary MS. 31841, 1440; Yale University,Bei-
sound, if often austere, advice. The Treasure reveals Christine de necke Library MS. 427, c. 1460; Brussels,Biblioth6queRoyaleAlbert1er,
Pizan for the realist she was. It reflects her understanding of the 9235-7, c. 1465; and Paris,BibliothequeNationalefr. 1177, 1470-80.
evils and temptations besetting women. She gave women advice Allare listedby AngusKennedy,Christinede Pizan:A Bibliographic
on how to avoid slander, appease husbands, run a household or Guide (London;Grant& Cutler,1984), 107. Inadditionto the 21 hand il-
business, rule a kingdom, handle a court case or a love affair, raise luminatedmanuscripts, thereare 4 early printededitions:by Antoine
children, and most importantly, to protect a woman's most pre- Verard(1497), MichelLeNois (1503), and Jehanand DenisJanot
cious possession: her honor. Christine's credo is evident in the op- (1536). In 1518 it was translatedintoPortugueseat the requestof Isabelle
timism she expressed regarding the substantial role women could of Portugal.See CharityCannonWillard,"APortugueseTranslation of
play in society when given the education and opportunity. Christinede Pizan'sLivredes TroisVertus,"Publicationof the ModernLan-
Charity Cannon Willard believes Christine wrote The Treasure guage Associationof America(December1963), 459-64.
to teach women how to attain a sense of self worth.42Indeed, Fig- 7. GilbertOuy and ChristineReno,"Identification des autographesde
ures 1 and 4 and the inside cover illustration in particular, in their Christinede Pizan,"Scriptorium (1980), 221-38; MillardMeiss, French
straightforward renditions of her text, underscore this credo. Paintingin the Timeof Jean de Berry:TheLimbourgs and TheirContempo-
These miniatures offer the reader a visual counterpart of the mod- raries(London:Thames& Hudson,1974), 8.
el behavior promoted in the lectures. Christine's original artist, 8. Christinede Pizan,TheBookof the Cityof Ladies,EarlJeffrey
The City of Ladies Master (Fig. 1), preserves a sense of hierarchy Richards,trans.(New York:Persea, 1982), 85.
in the classroom while establishing a visual circle of community 9. Fordiscussionof Anastaiseand othermedievalwomenartistssee
when giving form to the college and its lecture hall. Later artists DorothyMiner,Anastaiseand HerSisters:WomenArtistsof the Middle
were more concerned with fashionable attire and social hierarchy Ages (Baltimore: WaltersArtGallery, 1974) and AnnemarieWeyl Carr,
(Figs. 2, 3) or with the women cavorting outdoors after class (in- "WomenArtistsin the MiddleAges," FeministArtJournal(1976), 5-9.
side cover). Yet all remind the reader that women should gather, 10. Of the eight illustratedmanuscripts of TheTreasure,only fourhave
listen, read, and think. Christine's prose inspires an imaginative in- been attributedto specificworkshops:Boston,MS. fr. med. 101, to The
terpretation of feminine culture, even when the artists were most Cityof LadiesMaster;Brussels,BR9551-2, the Workshopof Guilebertde
likely men. Although they and their patrons held restrictive no- Mets;Yale University,BeineckeMS. 427, the Masterof Amiens200; and
tions concerning the role, value, and worth of women, when inter- Brussels,BR9235-7, Schoolof JacquemartPilvaine.
preting Christine's visions they are forced to create a harmonious 11. Forimages of women in the middleages see Diane Bornstein,The
vision of a community of women gathering to learn. Christine was Ladyin the Tower(Hamden,Conn.:ArchonBooks, 1983); Kirohes&
pleased with her efforts: Wemple, eds. Womenof theMedievalWorld(1985); PennySchineGold,
TheLadyand the Virgin:Image,Attitudeand Experiencein Twelfth-Century
I remained almost exhaustedfrom writingfor so long, but very hap- France(Chicago:Universityof Chicago, 1985); MargaretMiles, Imageas
py, looking at the beautiful work of their worthy lessons, which I Insight:VisualUnderstanding in WesternChristianand SecularCulture
have recapitulated. The more I look at them, the better they seem; (Boston:Beacon, 1985); and PatriciaSimons,"Womenin Frames:The
very profitable for the good, the improvementof virtuous habits, and Gaze, the Eye, the Profilein RenaissancePortraiture," HistoryWorkshop:
the increase of the honor of ladies and the whole world of women, A Journalof Socialistand FeministHistorians(Spring1988), 4-30. Al-
present andfuture, wherever this book can reach and be seen.43 thoughdirectedat Italianportraitsof women, Simons'sworkprovidesa
usefulmethodologicalmodelregardingthe relationshipof the masculine
The popularity of The Treasure over several centuries among patronand artistand its effecton the portraitsof women.
many classes of women is a testament to its power. This would 12. Willard,"APortugueseTranslation," 459-64.
have pleased Christine, no believer in false humility, for she had 13. de Pizan, TheTreasure,59.
high hopes for the lessons transcribed in her College of Ladies. ? 14. See EdithYenal,Christinede Pisan:A Bibliography(London:Scare-
crow, 1982) 43-44, 46-47.
NOTES 15. SusanGroag Bell,"MedievalWomen BookOwners:Arbitersof Lay
1. Christinede Pizan, TheTreasureof the Cityof Ladies,Sarah Law- Pietyand Ambassadorsof Culture,"Signs (Summer1982), 763-64.
son, trans.(New York:Penguin,1985), 32. Allquotesare fromthistrans- 16. Thecotehardieis a tightlyfittedgarmentmadeof one or two pieces
lation. wornundera moreformaloutergarmentsuchas a houppelandeor surcoat;
2. OriginallytitledLelivredes troisvertus(TheBookof the Three sometimesit was wornalone. Itwas firstnotedin the middleof the 14th
Virtues)by Christinein 1405, it became knownas TheTreasureor The centuryand remainedpopularthroughout the firstfew decades of the 15th.
Treasuryof the Cityof Ladieswhen it was printedunderthe patronageof Itwas wornat variouslengthsby men, butit was always long whenworn
Queen Anneof Brittanyin the early- 6th century.CharityCannonWillard by womenand oftenscandalouslylow-cut.Itis called a kirtlein England
titledhertranslationA MedievalWoman'sMirrorof Honor:TheTreasury and a gamurraor camorain Italy.See BlanchePayne,A Historyof Cos-
of the Cityof Ladies(New York:Persea, 1989). tume(New York:Harper& Row, 1965) and MargaretScott,A VisualHisto-
3. de Pizan, TheTreasure,31. ry of the Costumeof the Fourteenth Century(London:B.T.Batsford,1986).
4. Anneof France,TheTeachingsof Anne of Franceto HerDaughter Allthe costumesdescribedin the textare documentedin these two volumes.
Suzanneof Bourbon(1505), forexample.Anneowned five volumesof 17. Christineis depictedten timesin thissame costumein miniatures
Christine'sworks,includingTheTreasure. producedunderher supervisionfor TheCityand TheTreasureand in many
5. TheBookof the Cityof Ladies(1405) documentsthe livesof portraitsshe commissionedto accompanyher proseworks.Fora fulldis-
women, mythologicaland historic,pagan as well as Christian,who con- cussionof her portraits,see my "AWomanof ExcellentCharacter:A Case
tributedto the developmentof Westerncivilization. Studyof Dress,Reputationand the ChangingCostumeof Christinede
FALL1995 / WINTER1996
0
Pizan,"Dress(1990), 107. Also, fora moreextensivediscussionand re- classes in the 15th.
productionof miniatures,see mydissertation,"AnAssemblyof Ladies:The 30. de Pizan, TheTreasure,31.
15th-Century PictorialTraditionof Christinede Pizan'sLacit6 des dames 31.The Brusselseditionis boundwith TheCityof Ladies,which is illus-
and Latr6sorde la cit6 des dames"(University of Washington,1989). tratedwithsix miniatures.All nine are unusual.Thefirstfor TheTreasure
18. de Pizan, TheTreasure,134-38, 149-53. shows Christineand the virtuesconversinginsidea walled garden. The
19. MargaretScott, LateGothicEurope:1400-1500 (London:Mills& second shows themmeetingwomenat a crossroadsbeforea landscape.
Boon, 1980) and DorothyHartley,MedievalCostumeand Life(London: 32. Accordingto Willard,in A MedievalWoman'sMirror,36, the three
B.T.Batsford, 1931). virtuesserveto unitethe two books and badger Christineintoorganizing
20. de Pizan, TheTreasure,150. the college, butit is Prudencewho technicallydeliversthe lecturesin the
21. DianeOwen Hughes,"Lamoda prohibita.Lalegislazionesumptuar- College of Ladies.
ia nell Italiarinascimentale," Memoria(1984), 95-97. 33. Thegroupsare easily identifiedby theircostume.Middle-class
22. Forminiaturesee London,BritishLibrary,Harley4431, f. 290, women became great readersof thistext in its early-16th-centuryprinted
1410-15. editions.See CharityCannonWillard,"TheManuscriptTraditionof the
23. LuluM. Richardson,Forerunners of Feminismin FrenchLiterature of Livredes TroisVertusand Christinede Pisan'sAudience,"Journalof the
the Renaissance:FromChristinede Pizanto Mariede Gournay(Baltimore: Historyof Ideas(1966), 439-40.
JohnsHopkins,1929), 30. 34. de Pizan, TheTreasure,145.
24. So namedby MillardMeissin "TheExhibition of FrenchManuscripts 35.1tis speculatedthatthiscodex, presumedlost, may be the one once
of theXIII-XVI Centuriesat the BibliothequeNational,"ArtBulletin(Summer in the BourbonLibrary and owned by Anneof France(1462-1522). See
1956), 153. Seeminglya favoriteof Christine's, thisartistpaintedminiatures TheYaleUniversityLibraryGazette (no. 4, 1978), 244.
for TheCityand TheTreasure and formanyof herothermanuscripts as well. 36. Simons,"Womenin Frames,"41.
25. Thehouppelandeis a costly,voluminousovergownof varyinglength 37. de Pizan, TheTreasure,47.
for men,always long forwomen, and requiringlarge quantitiesof fabric. 38. Ibid., 153.
FashionablethroughoutEuropebetween 1380 and 1420, it was often 39. Ibid., 168.
heavilyembroideredand wornwitha wide varietyof collarsand sleeves, 40. Willard,in "TheManuscriptTradition," 438, writesthatas Marieof
dependingon the date. Thewearingof a houppelandealways indicates Burgundy,Margaret'ssisterbecame the Duchessof Cleves, and herfriend,
wealthand status. MarieHarcourt,became the Duchessof Guelders,"Itis thereforenottoo
26. de Pizan, TheTreasure,32. difficultto understandhow a copy of the textshouldhave made itsway in-
27. Therobes royale, consistingof a cloak and open or sidelessgown to the handsof a Dutchartist."
witha plastronwornover a cotehardie,were worn by the royalfamilyand 41. de Pizan, TheTreasure,61.
some membersof the aristocracyon ceremonialoccasions. 42. See Willard'sintroduction,A MedievalWoman'sMirror,39-40.
28. See CheunsonSong and LucyRoySibley, "TheVerticalHeaddress 43. de Pizan, TheTreasure,180.
of FifteenthCenturyNorthernEurope,"Dress(1990), 4-15.
29. Theliripipe,a long tail of fabricextendingfromthe peak of a hood, Laura Rinaldi Dufresne is Associate Professor of Art History at
was wornby aristocratsin the 14th centuryand the middleand lower Winthrop Universityin South Carolina.

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