making'
a Eallar
with a
stand
It is important to know
how to make up and attach
a collar with a stand
which is stitched on. This
technique is necessary
when making jackets and
coats which need a collar
that fits well and looks
smart. The stand is
inserted far enough into
the collar so that it
supports and shapes the
collar around the neck. You
will find the seamline is
invisible and the results
well worth the extra effort.
Dark green ~ upper collar
o Light green = under collar
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•
,. In the photograph above
\I you can see all the pattern
pieces cut out and ready for
assembly. All of the collar pieces
are cut from single fabric, and
then the under collar and under
collar stand are reinforced with
iron-on interfacing to give extra
support to the finished collar.
Allow a seam allowance ofO.5cm
(ft") on seams of inner curve of
the collar and the outer curve of
the collar stand. Add 1em (t") on
all other edges.
~ Baste the two parts of the
~ collar together along the
stand seamline, wrong sides
facing, and then top-stitch close
to the stitching on both sides of
the seam as shown above. Care-
fully pull out basting threaJs.
<IJ. Iron the interfacing onto
~ the re)evant pieces and'
then pin the under collar stand to
the under collar, right sides facing.
Baste and then stitch them
together, then clip into the seam
allowance around the curve
several times close to the stitching
line. Press the ~eam open. Now
stitch the neckband to ,the upper
collar in the same way. Pin and
A
stItch under and upper collar
together around outer edges,
right sides facing. Turn and press.
Now baste together the upper
and under collar edges that will
be attached to the finished gar-
ment along the marked seamline.
Top-stitch around the outer
edges, following the directions for
the required distance from edge.
 fJ\ On the right you see the
"'finished collar. Note how
the inserted collar stand allows
the collar to shape and curve
naturally around the neck without
creasing: or straining.
Now baste the collar to the neck
edge. If using a pattern with a
cut-in-one or attached facing, the
collar is stitched between the
garment and the facing.
If the garment is unlined, a back
facing piece is usually included. In
this case:stitch the shoulder seams •
of the front and back facing and
finish the seam allowance of the
outer edges. Pin the facing to the
neck edge, right sides facing,
placing the collar between the
garment and the facing, and then
stitch all around neck edge in one
long seam.

lot Trim the seam allowances

~ around the neck edge to
O.Scm (ft"), and then clip into the
curve close to the stitching line.
Turn the facing to the inside of
the garment and baste through all
layers close to the seam line. Press
the seam lightly on the inside of
the garment, pull out all the
basting threads, and press once
more. Finally, sew the facing to
the shoulder by hand. Make a few
I. stitches which are firm, but not
I too tigh.t, so that the shoulders
I,
do not wrinkle.

~ This detail shows the

'iIcollar as it should look
when the garment is completed.
The collar, stitched between the
garment and the facing, emerges
neatly and smoothly from the
neck seam line.

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