Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Hands-On
Deli TasTIngs Get $5 OFf DeLi Tastings!
Just pay for your seat 2 days in advance and we'll Sandwich of Baking ClasSes
Upstairs at the Next Door
Coffee Shop, 422 Detroit St.
take $5 off the regular admission.
the mONtH 3723 Plaza Drive • 734.761.7255
Learn to Make
Roadhouse Special Dinners are multi-course family-
style affairs with a little history and a LOT of food and Fresh Mozzarella
feature writers, chefs, and more from our own com- Saturdays Sept-May • 12-2:30pm • $50
munity and from all around the country. Reservations required
Making your own mozz in your own kitchen
Cheese Tastings
required cupping. Sit down with
Tuesday, January 11 • 7pm • $45/dinner with his voice, songs and amazing guitar skills. He was
Coffee Company managing part-
inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1986, 48
ners Allen and Steve to sample We welcome pre-eminent
some new offerings, some old food historian and cookbook #99
years after his passing at the age of 27. Together with the
University Musical Society, we will be celebrating the
The History of Milk
favorites, some experimental author Jessica B. Harris from Sunday, January 16 • 4-6pm • $25
man who, as legend tells it, at the Mississippi junction of
batches and learn how to discern New York City for this annual Learn about the wide variety of animals whose
Highways 61 & 49, gave up his soul to write the baddest blues
the subtle distinctions among the celebration of traditional American food- milk becomes great cheese, and why diet,
the world had ever heard.
world's coffees. ways. In her new book, High on the Hog, physical environment, and time of year all
Harris tell the engaging history of African Bruce Conforth, the first curator of the Rock and Roll Hall affect the cheese’s final style and flavor. We’ll
Future tastings happen the sec-
American cuisine and takes the reader on of Fame and U of M American Culture Professor, will share follow the cheesemakers’ process of receiving,
ond Saturday of each month, his stories and knowledge on Robert Johnson and his
a harrowing journey from Africa across setting and turning milk into cheese and we’ll
11am-noon. early influence on jazz while Chef Alex shares the story of learn how the heck people figured out how to
the Atlantic to America. Although the
story of African cuisine in America begins Mississippi and blues through an amazing Mississippi meal. turn milk into cheese in the first place!
Home Espresso Workshop with slavery, High on the Hog ultimately Buy tickets to the Thursday, February 10th concert at www.ums.org
Saturday, January 15 chronicles a thrilling history of triumph Chocolate & Cheese
FreE! and survival. James Beard-nominated chef Thursday, February 10 • 4-6pm • $25
10am-noon
Alex Young will prepare a meal that brings Mark Twain’s Feast: “A Tramp Abroad” The lovely Margot Miller, resident Chocolate
This is our 3rd Home Espresso
that history alive while Jessica delivers Tuesday, February 22 • 7pm • $45/dinner Expert at Zingerman’s Delicatessen, will be
Workshop. Grab your espresso on hand to present some of the world’s finest
the story of the food and the people who Traveling throughout Europe, Mark Twain
machines and come on down. chocolate offerings as we pair them with our
brought it here. grew resentful of European food becoming #
Don’t have an espresso machine? 100 most favorite imported and domestic cheeses.
Come test drive some and find “In High on the Hog, the inimitable Jessica homesick and longing for the traditional
The perfect sweet-and-savory fete just in time
out what all the hullabaloo is Harris tells the story of the African American foods of home. In his 1880 travel memoir, A
for Valentine’s Day!
about. We’ll work with you to diaspora from the perspective of an accom- Tramp Abroad, Twain compiled a nostalgic
make better espresso and keep plished food historian. [A] gripping saga list of American foods he missed including hot buckwheat
your machine (or potential laced with descriptions of food that will cakes, butter-beans and Southern fried chicken. Call to reserve your spot at 734.929.0500.
machine) running smoothly. This make your mouth water.” Chef Alex and Jan Longone, the Curator of the Center for
Tastings include a coupon for 20% off your entire
event is free and informal, so —Marion Nestle, NYU professor and American Culinary Research at the William Clemens Library purchase in the Cheese Shop that evening!
stop by at any time and geek out author of Food Politics and What to Eat at the University of Michigan, have crafted a menu explor-
with us! ing Twain’s most longed for foods. This is a dinner not to be
Creamery Tours
“Anyone interested in food history will find
plenty to savor in Jessica B. Harris’s latest missed, pairing the rich history of Mark Twain’s life and his
book.” —Saveur favorite foods.
Stop by our coffee bar @ Sundays • 2pm • $5 per person • Call to reserve!
3723 Plaza Drive • 734-929-6060
www.zingermanscoffee.com Reserve your spot now at 734.663.FOOD(3663) or www.zingermansroadhouse.com
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011
1
ISSUE # 224
Build Up to the Deli Build-Out
Or, Breaking
News on
Breaking Ground
When Zingerman’s Delicatessen opened in March 1982, as Paul Saginaw ness of building-making as they learn the business of sandwich-making!
loves to say, “We just wanted to sell a great corned beef sandwich so Most importantly, their involvement ensures that the whole construc- The Deli will be open
that when you brought it up to your mouth and held it with both hands tion process will run more smoothly alongside our daily operations.
while biting into it, the Russian dressing would drip down your arms.” (Remember, we’re open for business every day through construction!) for business as usual
How the heck will it look? The Deli’s front entrance will
throughout construction!
Paul and Ari thought people might also want great ingredients to take
home—great rye bread, great corned beef, great emmenthaler, and remain the same. From Kingsley you’ll have a nice view of a 2-story
great Russian dressing—so in time, a world of food came to pack the glass atrium that will connect the rear of the Deli with a simple 2-story
Deli’s shelves and cases. brick structure (about 10,400 sq ft) on the site of the fire-damaged Where To Get Build-Out Info
Why we’re building. Over the past twenty-eight years, the house on Kingsley. Our architects have integrated the historic “orange 1. www.zingermansdeli.com/deli-construction-
number of guests coming to Zingerman’s has increased by a steady 10% house” that currently sits at the top of our old driveway to become a news (the latest news, architectural drawings,
each year. Between 2004 and 2009, the guest total grew from 310,000 centerpiece for the new brick structure. From the outside it will not photos!)
to 450,000, a 38% increase! We bow down to our loyal guests, old and have moved. From the inside, it will be an adjunct to our guest flow.
new, and to the hardworking Zingerman’s staff who has acrobatically On the patio, we envision an open-air pavilion replacing our well-used 2. Monthly Town Hall Meetings with Grace
met their needs in our maxed out space. big top tent for enjoyable outdoor dining and activities. The grounds Tuesday morning, January 11, 2011 – 7:30-8:30am
will be leveled to tame the incline that currently challenges us. There Tuesday evening, February 1, 2011 – 5:30-6:30pm
The kitchen isn’t the only place where operations are busting at the
will be a nice ADA accessible slope in the section between Deli and
seams. We unload a lot of delivery trucks and store inventory in any
Next Door and level spots for tables. (Don’t tell me you never noticed
3. Next Door’s 2nd Floor Build-Out
nook and cranny. We produce our fair share of garbage but through Bulletin Board
composting and recycling, we divert well over a ton of garbage per how much the picnic tables are tipped!) Along with all these improve-
Check it out near the top of the Next Door
week from county landfills. Our recycling bins overfloweth and take ments come lots more edible landscaping and a green roof.
stairs (adjacent to the men’s bathroom). You’ll
up space. And there’s the nagging question of where to fit more tables, How will our guests benefit? A ground floor restroom see updates on architectural plans, FAQ’s, and
a challenge obvious to any Zingerman’s guest. Plus we constantly ask is at the top of the list for many. We project shorter and faster mov- find out what’s coming next!
ourselves how the heck can we include more people in our food tast- ing lines because of a better layout and a shorter waiting time due
ings, fun classes and theme dinners. to greater kitchen capacity. Retail shopping will be easier and more Our Timeline
The build-out vision belongs to our trio of second generation Deli efficient. There will be more seating options to suit your fancy and We break ground in early 2011 and aim to wrap
Managing Partners & Owners—Grace Singleton, Rick Strutz and most easy accommodation for large parties! Tastings, classes and special up construction by mid 2012.
recently, Chef Rodger Bowser—who carry the mantle for the future of events galore will fit in our expanded space. And we are eager for much
Zingerman’s Delicatessen on their shoulders. Their conclusion: we’ve greater accessibility with full ADA compliance outdoors and indoors. Our Fun New Look!
run out of space and can’t wait any longer. With more room we will The Deli’s entrance will remain the same! A
How will the neighborhood benefit? We’re staying 2-story glass atrium will connect the rear of
deliver a better experience to our guests and our staff (including more
put and contributing to the unique character of this multi-use neigh- the historic Deli building to a new 2-story
restrooms!). Our deli kitchen is causing wear on the building because
borhood where businesses and residences have existed side-by-side brick structure (about 10,400 sq ft) to stand
the old brick walls were never designed for our volume of cooking,
for decades. We’ll increase the neighborhood green space and enhance on the site of the fire-damaged Kingsley St.
humidity and general kitchen use. So moving all kitchen operations out
a community gathering spot near downtown. We’ll address the impact structure.
of the old and into the new will help us preserve our historic home.
of the commercial noise we generate and the commercial deliveries we
Why not be greener? Another added benefit of this project receive in a comprehensive manner. And we anticipate adding over 60 The historic “orange house” will be architec-
is the chance to green up our act, reduce our carbon footprint and new jobs to help fuel our local economy. We pride ourselves on being turally integrated into the new brick structure
become more efficient in our energy usage. With the space and oppor- caring, committed, responsible corporate citizens in our community. and aid guest flow inside the Deli.
tunity to completely re-vamp kitchen and mechanical equipment, we The build-out allows us to dig our roots deeper into this place we love.
can get as green as possible without disruption of service. The project We’re in motion now. By early 2011, we’ll put a shovel in the ground. On the patio, an open-air pavilion will replace
is registered with the Green Building Association and our goal is to A tree was removed in November in preparation for eliminating the our well-used big top tent surrounded by lots
achieve LEED Silver at a minimum. Woot! Woot! The LEED point system fire-damaged Kingsley structure affectionately referred to as “Smokey.” of outdoor space and edible landscaping.
measures the environmental sustainability of our design, construc- There’s already been prep work done in anticipation of the acrobatic
tion, operations and maintenance. This is big news! It means that the lifting of our “orange house” from its foundation.
Why We’re So Happy!
environmental impact of the build-out is being considered in every The 1st floor of the new building will house
With construction fences up and traffic re-routed every which way, we
decision—sourcing, construction, daily use and into perpetuity. (More a bigger kitchen, our sandwich line, and
will be doing back flips to maintain incredible service and offer a great
green news to come!) improved delivery and storage systems!
experience to everyone who visits. We are committed to doing every-
What a puzzle! A construction project is a jigsaw puzzle. You thing necessary to make it a blast for you to dine and shop as always. Both the 1st and 2nd floors of the new building
glimpse the big picture on the box cover. Then begins the long ordeal Check out the construction magic happening daily. Our mandate is to will offer more guest seating options and new
of examining every piece to find its relation to all the others. Time and STAY OPEN THROUGH THE ENTIRE PROJECT. restrooms!
attention to detail get all the pieces to fit perfectly. The design team The heart of Zingerman’s Delicatessen remains the same! The Deli “post
collaborating on this project brings a wide spectrum of opinions and build-out” will still be a hustling, bustling place to meet your friends, We’ll have more retail space in the old Deli for
skills to the table and it’s exactly what this gargantuan task requires! bring your family, enjoy great, full-flavored traditional foods and get the wonderland of foods we showcase!
It’s been a long haul. We truly appreciate the City of Ann Arbor and the the trademark Zingerman’s customer service experience. The menu
By regrading the site, all our buildings will
Historic District Commission for recognizing the merits of the project will be the same, if not expanded. Servers will happily give you a taste
be more accessible to our guests with wheel-
and voting in September 2010 to grant us permission to clear the area of anything you want. There will be more elbow room to engage with
chairs, walkers and strollers!
we need to build the new 2-story structure that will house most every- retail staff, exchange food stories and recipes. The sandwich runner
thing on our wish list. will still yell out your name. Morning regulars will still have spots to sit
We have the chance to become a greener busi-
and read their New York Times. Bikers will have more bicycle parking
Who are the architects? After interviews with many com- ness. Our project is a LEED-NC (new construc-
and access to emergency repair tools. Students will have quiet spots to
petent firms, we chose to work with Quinn Evans Architects whose Ann tion) certified green building! The LEED point
study. People will still converge for meetings. Even though there will
Arbor office is right around the corner on N. Main Street. Their renova- system, developed by the US Green Building
be some nostalgia for the old cramped Deli, we think you will be very
tion of Hill Auditorium and their collaborative work style made us feel Council, measures the environmental sustain-
pleased with how the new space merges with the old, still feels familiar,
we could partner well in tackling our challenging project. ability of a project’s design, construction,
and allows us to provide better service, better food, and an even better
operations and maintenance.
Who are the contractors? We brought Phoenix overall experience. Same great rye bread, same great corned beef, same
Contractors on board early in the process. Owners Bill Kinley and Mark great emmenthaler, same great Russian dressing and same great experi- The Deli Build-Out is all about a better
Hiser along with site manager Chris Love help us address a multitude of ence that Zingerman’s has provided since the day we opened our door. Zingerman’s Experience to be enjoyed by
potential construction roadblocks and snafus. We learn about the busi-
many more people for generations to come!
2
ISSUE # 224 JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011
OR!
l Flav rs
a
back T g cAndy b
o fuL
takin
Throughout January
BUY 2 Zzang!
®
“The ultimate
handmade candy bar.”
—Chocolatier magazine
February is
Chocolate Gelato Month!
The gelato case will be loaded up with chocolate- some flavors ONLY
available in February. Stop by the Creamery or Deli Next Door!
in February at www.zingermans.com or 888.636.8162 chocolate gelati, including Dark Chocolate, Strawberry Balsamic, Rocky
Ride and Chocolate Heat.
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011
3
ISSUE # 224
It’s a good problem. I get interviewed a lot! Some days it’s about business, sometimes Rush Creek Reserve Cheese on Potatoes
food. The latter usually get into questions about a particular product on which the writer
Rush Creek is the new cheese from the folks at Uplands Cheese
is writing, maybe a trend watch or two, or more often than not, just about Zingerman’s
Company in Dodgeville, Wisconsin, one of our favorite
approach to food overall. They want to know what we’re selling, what customers are non-Zingerman’s cheese makers. If you don’t know their
buying, what’s big, what’s going to be big and . . . you know, all that reportorial stuff. Pleasant Ridge Reserve, definitely make time to check it
Then they’ll often move into the personal part of it. “What do you eat?” they want to out—it’s a firm textured, nutty, delicious cheese made from
know. It’s not hard to answer—I just tell them the truth; lots of vegetables, all the more the nearly impeccable milk of a single herd of cows (next
so in summer, when I can get great local stuff at the farmer’s market. Lots of fresh fish. door to their creamery) by Mike and Carol Gingrich and cheesemaker Andy Hatch. We
Lots of olive oil. Great bread from the Bakehouse. Lots of artisan cheese. A lot more have it now at about nine months of age and it’s pretty generally acknowledged to be
anchovies than the average American. Plenty of pasta, rice, grits and grains. A bit of one of the best cheeses in our case and in the country at large. This year it achieved an
bacon. Of course I taste all day—great dark chocolate, lots of tea, and coffee from the unprecedented feat taking home Best in Show at the American Cheese Society confer-
Zingerman’s Coffee Company. I’m very fortunate to be surrounded by so much great food ence for the third time! (No other cheese has ever won more than once.)
(and, equally so, by all the amazing purveyors, colleagues and customers I get to work
The Rush Creek Reserve is only the second cheese the Gingrich’s are producing. This
with every day).
one is much softer and even more seasonal than their Pleasant Ridge Reserve. It’s made
Once the food writers have heard me share my regular eating routines, I’m often given in the style of a Vacherin Mont D’Or which will likely mean little to most Ann Arborites
this sort of knowing look, sly smile and then asked something along the lines of: “Ok, I but might raise high excitement amongst those who know and love fine French and
know that’s what you’re supposed to say, and that all sounds great, but, you know, (wink, Swiss cheeses. This one is made only in the fall when the milk is particularly rich. It’s a
wink), when you really want, you know (another wink) some sort of secret unhealthy washed rind cheese—thin, slightly sticky rind, wrapped in a spruce wood band and aged
treat, then what do you eat?” I know the game by now—they’re sure I have some secret for about 8 weeks so that it’s nice and creamy inside. I really like to eat it atop just-
in my culinary closet, and they really want at it. They’re all ready to hear some story cooked potatoes (we should still be able to find some good,
about how I wake up in the middle of the night and eat Cheetos. How I secretly crave locally grown ones out there to steam up). I like the
Pop Tarts or Twinkies; how when no one’s looking I drive over to the 7-11 to buy a box potatoes cooked ‘til they’re really tender, then
of Oreos and eat the whole thing in a single sitting. Or how I like to eat lots of hot dogs cracked open. Drop on a bit of butter, some
at the local Coney Island. sea salt and then spoon on the Rush Creek.
But the honest truth is that I don’t do any of those things, but not because I worry that I leave the rind behind—just spoon out the
they’re bad for me. I grew up happily eating Cheetos, Twinkies, Pop Tarts, Ding Dongs, creamy center of the cheese. Eat it with a
Oreos, Kraft American singles and all that stuff; I have absolutely no interest in eating couple good slices of the Pain de Montagne—I
them now. No offense intended to those who do. Seriously, it’s your life and your money. buy the big, 2-kilo loaves, hopefully one with an
Life is short; eat what you want to eat and enjoy it. But me, I eat good food because I especially dark crust.
feel good when I eat it, I feel good when I’m finished, and I still feel good four or five
hours later. The fact that I know it’s healthy; that I’m supporting good people who supply
these traditional foods to us and the people who work so hard in our own organization
to make the stuff available; and that it’s more environmentally sound, all definitely help
my peace of mind and solidifies the certainty of my decision. But all ethics and enlight- Potlikker Fish Stew
ened self interest aside, it also happens to just plain taste way better. It’s about as win-
win-win-win as one can get. So when I tell the reporters the truth, I think that most of
them are still convinced that I actually have a cache of junk food squirreled away in my This one’s on the menu at the Roadhouse so, although
culinary closet. They can look if they want—my pantry’s full of olive oils, pastas, great I’ve been making it at home, you could actually just
cheese, good chocolate and varietal honeys. go in there and order it for dinner as well. Either way,
the dish starts with potlikker—the broth from the long
That said, I do have things that I eat that I don’t talk about as readily as I do others. The cooking of greens (collards or whatever you’re using)
things I’m a bit unconsciously careful about owning up to are . . . well, cringe, sigh, gri- with bacon. I buy mine from the Roadhouse but you
mace . . . usually winter foods. I’m a little afraid to admit it in the current high (and highly can easily make your own by doing some long simmer-
applauded and appreciated by me!) focus on local foods, but I eat stuff that comes from ing at home. Take the greens out and serve them for din-
a long ways away. It’s not local in the strictly geographic sense of the word, but most of ner—save the potlikker for whatever you like. In the moment,
it is actually still very local in the way I like to think of it—we have a positive relation- we’ll say for this very fine fish stew. Making the potlikker is actually the hardest part of
ship with the people who produce it carried through to those to whom we sell it. (See this process (and it’s not all that hard). The rest is about as easy a dish as you’re going to
Zingerman’s Guide to Good Leading, Part 1 for more on that.) get. Simmer it up and then add some fresh fish of your choosing—really almost anything
While in the summer I’m loading up at the farmer’s market two or three times a week, at Monahan’s will work well. Simmer until the fish is flaking. Add salt and pepper to the
when the winter comes I think I verge on culinary depression when there’s nothing left soup to taste. And, really, that’s it!
to be had at the market. I feel fortunate to be able to get it when I can—and honestly if At the Roadhouse we serve it over Anson Mills grits which are amazing on their own and
I think about moving out of Ann Arbor (don’t worry, I’m not) it’s in part because I’d like excellent under the potlikker and fish. At home I do a slightly different version which
to be able to eat lots of fresh local produce year round. skips the grits and calls for cooking some really wild, wild rice in the potlikker before
Of course there are still loads of good local foods to be had in the winter. There’s a you put the fish in. The quality and source of the wild rice is essential; it has to be the
whole bunch of stuff here in our own organization—lots of great artisan bread and real thing—hand-harvested by Native Americans the old fashioned way from lakes and
baked goods from the Bakehouse, cheese from the Creamery, Zzang! candy bars, win- rivers where it truly grows wild—NOT the stuff sold in most stores, which is cultivated,
tered-over vegetables from Cornman Farms at the Roadhouse. At the market . . . there’s NOT wild and NOT very good. At one point that really wild, wild rice would have likely
not much but there are potatoes, onions and turnips and arugula and, when we can get come from close by, but these days human intervention into the ecosystems has resulted
them, really good salad greens from Shannon Brines’ hothouse. in the rice growing areas receding quite a bit—northern Minnesota is now by far and
away the most significant source, though there are also small amounts gathered in the
I’m totally high on Michigan-made, but in mid-winter . . . . I’m definitely a net importer
wild in Wisconsin and Michigan and still in good quantities up in Canada.
of foodstuffs: fresh figs from California; amazing heirloom almonds from Sicily;
roasted hazelnuts from a family farm in Oregon; very fresh fish from the East and West In terms of the soup, either use some of the already long cooked greens you used to get
Coasts; pasta from the top four or five artisan producers in Italy; olive oil from the this going, or add some fresh greens, coarsely chopped, to
Mediterranean and California. You’re getting the idea. As per our commitment to having the pot. If you’re into the bacon bit of it, add another big
positive relationships with everyone we’re buying from and selling to, they’re mostly chunk. The really wild, wild rice will take only about 15-20
from people we know, folks who care as much about the food they’re producing as we minutes (that’s the correct time—the cultivated stuff will
do here, who are committed to crafting the same sort of full-flavored, traditional foods take three to four times as long). When the rice is done
that we’ve been loving here for nearly thirty years. I figured the least I could do was add the fish and simmer ‘til it’s done. Eat it as is or fry
share with you a few ways I like to eat well in the winter! up a couple slices of Roadhouse bread in bacon fat ‘til
they’re golden brown, place them at the bottom of the bowl
and then ladle the stew over the top. Makes me hungry
just writing about it!!
Creamery Specials!
or ‘knockers’ that lived there. These were said to be pesky little creatures who could
cause great havoc in the mines if they were not appeased with their favorite treat. And,”
she added (in case you were wondering), “to this day it is considered bad luck to bring a
pasty aboard a sea vessel.”
Here above ground you can probably eat the whole thing. That said, I give the corner to
my dog, but if you’re spirit friendly feel free to toss one to the winds.
By the way, there’s apparently quite the argument back in Britain over whether pasties
should be crimped on the side or on the top. After her week of studying, Anne opted for January February
The CiTy GOat Sharon HolLOw
a side crimp; it’s the one that her mentors used and she thinks it makes the pasties more
easily eatable. Don’t take the crimping for granted. “Crimping is an art form that is greatly
appreciated by the Cornish,” Anne explained. “I was quite fortunate in the sense that ‘I
$5.99 ea. (reg. $6.99) 2 for $9.99 (reg. $6.99 ea.)
got it’ to a reasonable degree after a few hours of practice under the watchful eye of
my trainer. To do it with great speed is another matter. The crew I worked with was very Our chevre is made using overnight setting This fresh, hand-ladled cheese is layered
excited about my progress and it seemed the better I got the more accepted I was. One day of the milk and gentle hand ladling. Hand with pepper or fresh herbs and available in
all I did for several hours was crimp. I was told that is the only way to learn to do it...and ladling gives this cheese an amazing, evolv- Telicherry black pepper and garlic or garlic
it is. It has taken me hundreds and hundreds of pasties to get it right and do it fast. I saw ing texture, from light and airy when very and freshly-chopped chives. It brings a crisp,
several ads in local papers: ’Experienced Crimpers Wanted.’” fresh to firm and perfect for crumbling over clean, milky taste accented by the flavor of
salad when older. Fresh and crisp with a the herbs.
Also take note that each Bakehouse pasty is marked with a hand cut “Z.” This isn’t just lemony tang.
modern day marketing; it follows tradition. As Anne explained, “The miners would place
the pasties on top of one of the ovens in the mine so they would stay warm until lunch
time. The only problem was figuring out which pasty belonged to each miner, as they all
looked similar. Thus, the idea to put an initial in the dough was born. We love the history
of the pasty, and we put our Z on there for historical accuracy and to remind us that the
Roaster’s Picks
‘small details’ are what separates good from great.”
Available at the Bakeshop every Thursday and Friday just before lunch. By all means
order ahead (734.761.2095). They also freeze very nicely so no reason not to stock up for
emergencies!
January February
Pasta with Smoked Spanish Paprika EspreSso Blend #1 El SAlvador Finca
SAnta TherEsa
Here’s an incredibly simple way to make a really fast and fantastic meal. It’s a dish I do We blended this coffee in Brazil at the
when I’m really tired and I don’t have anything amazing in particular that I want to make. world-class Daterra Estate, choosing from
It’s a great way to get the leftovers out of my refrigerator and into a really nice, spicy, over a dozen different coffee varietals and Wonderfully complex, floral aroma, syrupy
warm supper. All you do is cook some good spaghetti (very al dente, if I’m doing it), drain processing methods. Roasted to produce body, flavors of bright fruits.
it and toss with any bits of cooked vegetables, meat or fish you have heated up. Add some a rich-bodied espresso that is sweet with
Rainforest Alliance Certified
good olive oil, a sprinkling of salt. Cooked chickpeas are very good as well. Then add a very flavors of dark chocolate, toasted nuts and
generous bunch of the ground smoked Spanish paprika that Iberians know as Pimenton de dark cherry.
la Vera. I like the hot version but you can stay with sweet if you want. You can of course
Rainforest Alliance Certified
adjust the amount of paprika to your particular taste. Toss the paprika and the pasta right
Utz Certified
in the bowl and eat. The paprika, hot pasta and olive oil form an instant sauce that clings
nicely to the noodles. Grind on black pepper, add more oil or salt as needed. I usually
forgo cheese on this one as it seems to get in the way of the smoky, very slightly citrusy,
intensity of the paprika. But it’s your pasta—put whatever you want on it.
All true Carolina Gold rice (there are 10 or 12 folks Fry the bacon in a heavy-bottomed stockpot over moderate heat until almost crisp.
growing it now) will be good. But the rice from Anson Remove from the pot and drain reserving about ¼ cup bacon grease.
Mills is, to my taste, by far the best. Organically Reduce heat slightly and add the chopped onion. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until nicely
grown, field-ripened, custom-milled to retain all of caramelized—about 20 minutes.
the germ and most of the bran, it’s exceptionally flavorful stuff. If you cook with it, you’ll
When the onions are just about ready, bring the broth and tomato juice to a boil in a
need to adjust your cooking times and liquid-to-rice ratio a bit. (If you want to read a lot
medium-sized pan and reduce to a low simmer. If you’re working with unsalted broth, add
more about Carolina Gold rice you can see the essay I did on it at www.zingermansroad-
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt.
house.com under the “Learnin’ About Our Food” link.)
When the onions are caramelized, raise the heat in the pot a bit, add the rice and stir
As to which pork to use, I like the Arkansas peppered bacon, but Sam Edwards’ dry-cured
well. Sauté for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly, until the rice is very hot and shiny.
would be excellent, too. As in all Lowcountry cooking, the rice should really be distinc-
tive, individual grains when you’re done, rather than the creamily bound-together form Stir the chopped tomatoes into the rice and cook for several minutes, stirring constantly.
you’d get from Italian risotto. Glenn Roberts, the man behind Anson Mills, believes that Add the simmering broth into the rice, stirring well. Bring to a boil, cover the pan, reduce
the dish was actually brought to the Lowcountry by Sephardic Jews coming from the heat to low and cook for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat. (And don’t pick up that lid to look,
Mediterranean; in 1800 Charleston had the largest Jewish community in North America. either, OK?) Let stand, covered, for another 10 minutes.
Of course they weren’t making it with bacon. If you don’t eat pork, Marcie Ferris, author
of Matzo Ball Gumbo, one of my favorite Jewish cookbooks ever, told me stories of Jewish While the rice is cooking, chop the bacon.
families in the Lowcountry making it with cubes of Kosher salami instead of the bacon. Remove the lid from the rice pot, add the bacon and stir gently. Flavor with salt and a
The recipe is at right. It’s really not hard at all. Getting the onions nicely caramelized generous dose of freshly ground black pepper, fluff with a fork and serve.
(thanks to Chef Alex Young at the Roadhouse for that idea) adds a lot of depth. Serves 4 to 6
Love Cheese?
pretty small scale by most standards. The land that has been owned by the family for
nigh on 180 years. The whole year’s production is very small and we liked it so much
we worked it out with Amalia to take everything she doesn’t set aside for the family.
The olives are the Koroneiki and Zakynthos Dopia varietals, organically grown. All the
olives are picked by hand, then pressed the same day they’re gathered from the tree.
Annual Cheese Mastery Class with Daphne Zepos • June 12-13 • $1200
They leave it all unfiltered because they (and I) like oil that way. Leaves a bigger mouth Though designed as a course for pros to Over a 48 hour period we’re going to
feel and often a bit of added punch to the flavor. This oil is really complex. Nice big hone their skills (for those of you who own taste dozens of cheeses, review the
nose that makes me want to crawl inside the bottle. Flavor of arugula, a bit of pepper, or work in a cheese shop, I'm convinced history of cheese, and learn Daphne’s
olivey. As Jason Hogans who works in retail at the Deli said, “It’s peppery but not too that what you'll learn in this class will approach to cheese classification. We’ll
peppery; it’s got some grass to it, but it’s not like a whole lawn.” Got me laughing when more than pay for itself in better handling go through cheese maturing, how to han-
he said it but, it’s a nice description. and reduced waste within a year), I really dle it at the cheese counter and how to
think this is a great investment for the pair it with wine, hams, salamis, chutneys
Aside from this fig and feta salad I like the Kokoraki poured onto warm Bakehouse
passionate amateur as well. Just like our and preserves. We'll also have the rare
Paesano bread. Of late, I’ve actually loved this oil a lot on toasted Roadhouse bread,
popular BAKE-cations at the Bakehouse opportunity to make cheese with John
too. The flavor of the cornmeal and the molasses in the bread actually go great with
(which draw dozens of amateur bakers for Loomis, owner and chief cheesemaker at
the oil. The Kokoraki is pretty marvelous on slices of fresh mozzarella with roasted
four days of hands-on bread and pastry Zingerman's Creamery. You’ll leave our
peppers and fresh herbs. Excellent on roasted fish—Monahan’s has been getting Greek
instruction, www.bakewithzing.com), this Mastery Class with two full days of cheese
branzino pretty regularly, which I love. A little of this oil poured on top after you take
class will take your knowledge of and instruction, tasting, and a hefty book of
the fish out from under the broiler would be a beautiful thing to be around for the
love for cheese to ever higher levels. The resource materials to take home with you.
smell of the oil after it hits the hot fish; the sight of the green oil surrounding the light
chance to learn with someone at Daphne's
gold-white color of the fish; and the flavor. A sprinkle of sea salt is all you’d need to Space is limited so if cheese is your busi-
level is really a once-in-a-lifetime thing.
add. Ask for a taste next time you’re in. And if you to talk directly to Daphne about ness or simply your passion, sign up soon!
oil, Greek food, cheese, life or most anything else of interest, you can email her at More details at www.zingtrain.com
daphnezepos@gmail.com. or call 734.930.1919
$29.99
Upcoming “Visionary” ZingTrain seminars!
8
ISSUE # 224 JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011
Visit
Hidden
with Zingerman’s Food Tours
6 Reasons to Come to Morocco with Zingerman’s in March 2011!
When I think of Moroccan food, what comes immedi- 1. Eat your fill of delicious Moroccan food—citrus and
ately to mind is the tagine—the conical cooking pot spices, lamb, chicken, and seafood, chickpeas and nuts,
of the Berbers, in which Moroccans make delicious, fresh herbs, fruits and vegetables, couscous and breads,
slow-cooked, one-dish meals. The Berbers are the and much more.
indigenous people of North Africa west of the Nile
Valley and have lived there a very long time. They are 2. Explore the vibrant markets (souks) of Marrakech with
depicted in rock art of the Sahara and referenced in our experienced guides. Sip mint tea in the central mar-
the writings of ancient Egypt and Greece. Nowadays, ket of Jemaa el Fna and enjoy some of the best people-
the tagine is used throughout Morocco by everyone, watching anywhere!
Berber and Arab, rich and poor, from roadsides to
the most upscale residences. Most importantly, the 3. Cook traditional dishes! Learn directly from Moroccan
food made in the tagine is delicious! You put your cooks and producers about Moroccan cooking.
ingredients in—such as chicken with preserved lem-
ons and olives or lamb with figs and walnuts—and let
4. Ride a camel by the seaside and explore a Berber vil-
lage perched high in the mountains with a stunning view
them cook slowly over coals. When you finally lift
of the valley below.
the lid after hours of slow cooking, the burst of heat
and steam with the most wonderful 5. Wander the streets of the ancient fishing village of
aromas makes your mouth water! Essaouira. Feast on the freshest seafood and admire the
I’m definitely looking forward to Berber carpets and fragrant thuya-wood carvings in the
the cooking lessons on the tour market.
and getting to enjoy the results.
Hope you’ll join me! 6. Walk the caper, fig, and walnut groves and learn about Where Are We Going Next?
traditional Berber mountain agriculture. 2011 2012 2013
Morocco March 20-29 Morocco (March) Peru (May)
Tuscany October 2-10 Spain (September)
To read more about what makes our trips so special, get on our eNews list or reserve your spot on a tour
visit www.zingermansfoodtours.com, call us at 888-316-2736, or email foodtours@zingermans.com Piedmont October 13-22 Sicily (October)
Stock up and save! Pot pies are only available in January & February. Buy 10, take 10% OFF!
Buy 20, get 20% OFF!! Buy 30, get 30% OFF!!! Also available frozen, ready to heat and serve.
Make everyone in the office happy with Zingerman’s Pot Pie Bag Lunches!
We’ve combined the warm, buttery goodness of our housemade Zingerman’s Deli Pot Pies with the crowd-pleasing conve-
nience of our bag lunches to create the ultimate winter feast for your office—Zingerman’s Catering Pot Pie Bag Lunches.
Pick from a bevy of individual pot pies—there’s a flavor for every palette! Each pie will be sent hot, with a tossed green
salad, balsamic vinaigrette, a mini brownie, napkin and utensils. All this for only $16.50 each!
Call 734.663.3400 or go to www.zingermanscatering.com to make your next staff meeting a comfort-food feast!
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011
9
ISSUE # 224
Being a baker is a happy profession. We have the good tailed communication is critical and not always so easy
fortune to be engaged with all of you at happy times
like holidays or simply when you’ve chosen to visit us.
to achieve. The basic vocabulary of cakes is not gen-
erally known so that’s where we need to start. What’s Meet Our
It’s not like being a dentist or an auto mechanic who
we all appreciate when we need them but would rather
fondant? What’s a butter cake verses a sponge cake? It
gets more complicated when we move into designing.
Design Team
not be seeing. Making wedding cakes is one of the most While directions like “make it pretty,” “lots of flowers,”
joyful parts of baking because weddings are such a cel- “bright pink” may seem descriptive enough, we have Stephanie Heincy
ebratory event in people’s lives. We like to add to that found that there’s lots of room for interpretation with department manager
joy and excitement and here are 5 ways we do that: directions like these that can lead to surprises. • Studied Hospitality at Madonna
1. Have The Cake of Your Dreams — 4 Multital- To make sure we create what our guests are imagining, University and baking and business at
ented Designers Available to Make it Happen we use pictures, actual color swatches or color charts, Schoolcraft College
draw detailed representations of cakes for your re- • Decorating Specialty: Piping scrollwork
There’s not one but four talented and passionate cake
view, and make samples of the design technique we’re and hand-painting
designers ready to advise you and work on your cus-
recommending for you to see. We have model cakes in
tom wedding cake. Depending on the complexity of the • Fave Bakehouse cake: Hummingbird cake
our display room so that guests can have a clear idea
design and variety of decorations, everyone might do a
of the size of their cake. We even have undecorated • Fun fact: started working toward a career
little something to make your cake great.
forms that we use to build cakes right in front of you in cake in high school.
We’ve found over the years that a diverse team enables so there won’t be any big surprises on the day of the
us to make the best cakes. Each of our designers has
years of pastry and cake experience, different aesthet-
wedding regarding the size of the cake. Emily Grish
ic passions and a variety of skills to bring to the pro-
4. Enjoy Zingerman’s Great Service in the • Studied Communications at Boston
cess. With all this skill, talent, care and passion we’re Process—It’s Sweetly Interpreted in the Cake University & baking at Washtenaw
able to create an incredible variety of cakes. Department Community College
For each cake we make sure that the decorator best • Taste, Taste and Taste. We give our guests a box of • Decorating Specialty: carved and 3D cakes
equipped for the design choices is the lead designer. 7 samples (different combinations of cake flavors and
• Fave Bakehouse cake: Buttermilk with
The designer knows long in advance of the wedding icings and fillings) to try at home with as many people
lemon butter cream
date that they’ll be doing the cake. This gives them the you feel like sharing with. If you don’t find perfection
time they need to dream, practice and plan. They’re in in this box we’ll make more combinations for you until • Fun fact: Avid sports fan!
charge of the process and when appropriate enlist the you discover the combination you love. Can’t choose
contributions of the others to make the cake perfect. between a few? Don’t choose. Have a different com- Sider Pangman
On very challenging cakes, I often hear lively conversa- bination for each tier of your cake. Need to plan your
wedding from a different city? We’ll mail the samples • Studied child psychology in Mexico and be-
tions for weeks ahead discussing the best way to make came a certified Montessori teacher before
it just right. to you.
getting a culinary arts and baking degree
Besides all this thoughtful planning, each week as we’re • Want a custom flavor of cake that we aren’t offering? from Washtenaw Community College
making cakes the designers actively give each other Give us time to work on the recipe to make sure it’s de-
licious and we’ll be happy to accommodate you. We’ve • Decorating Specialty: Perfection with all of
suggestions and help. There are four sets of talented the details
eyes overseeing the final execution of the cake, plus made cakes out of our Buenos Aires and Townie (glu-
other bakers on the Bakehouse staff who love walking ten-free) brownies, added chocolate to our coconut • Fave Bakehouse cake: coconut
through the cake room to see the cakes come to life. cake, and baked some nostalgic favorite family recipes.
• Fun fact: cooks when she’s stressed
2. Serve a Cake That Tastes as Great as • Have a limited schedule? We want to make it easy for
It Looks you to meet with us so we are available every day of
Katie Etchill
the week. Generally we work until 3 in the afternoon
We got into the cake business sort of backwards, at but if an appointment at 5:30 on a Wednesday is what • Studied Interior Design at the Art Institute
least compared to how most bakeries do it. Cakes are you need, we’ll change our schedule to make it happen. of Pittsburgh, Sculpture at Wayne State and
generally sold by how they look, not how they taste. So baking at Washtenaw Community College
• Can’t come to town before the week of the wedding?
they look luscious and full and fancy, and then when
We’ve become good at designing through phone calls • Decorating Specialty: hand-made sugar
you get them home they often don’t taste like any-
and emails. flowers and modelling figures
thing. Big disappointment! Since we’ve always been
committed to flavor first and are known for making • Want to have your wedding hours away from Ann Ar- • Fave Bakehouse cake: almond pound cake
humble traditional baked goods, our initial everyday bor? One of our designers will deliver the cake! • Fun fact: will watch any tv show marathon
cakes tasted really good but looked well, let’s politely 5. Your Guests Will Go Gaga!
say “plain” at best. The good news for you is that even
For many of us a wedding is the biggest party we’ll ever
though we’ve really improved the appearance of our
cakes, flavor is still most important to us. throw and we want to make sure that our guests have Planning A Wedding?
a great time. Over the years, the wedding cake has re- And want to have a Zingerman’s Bakehouse
Our cakes, buttercreams and fillings are made in our mained one of the symbolic must-have elements but cake? Call us at 734-761-7255 or email us at
pastry department from scratch with full-flavored in- it has also become one of those things that we don’t weddingcakes@zingermans.com.
gredients—real butter, real vanilla extract, fresh eggs, expect to really want to eat because so many we’ve
Guernsey dairy products, great chocolate, toasted tasted have been terrible. (I often wonder if that’s why
fresh nuts, and the best spices we can find. We make the standard wedding cake serving size is so small.) We See cake photos and watch our
our own fondant out of only real ingredients (no pre-
servatives or weird chemicals) and it has a sweet va-
want your guests to rave about the cake—its appear- “behind the scenes” cake video at
ance and its flavor. Yes, we want them to be looking for
nilla taste. seconds and telling you how much they loved the cake! www.zingermansbakehouse.com
With our cakes there’ll be no mismatch of excellence
between the flavor of your cake and it’s appearance.
3. Get What You Expect—Accuracy is Fore- Amy Emberling
most on Our Minds Bakehouse co-owner & cake lover
If there’s one thing we learned very early on in the
world of decorated cakes, it’s that accurate and de-
10
ISSUE # 224 JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011
7 Delicious Ways to Have Zingerman’s at Your WedDing
1. Custom cookies at each place setting: 6. Zingerman’s Catering & Events can bring you
We’ll work with you on shape, color and design to match the whole wedding from the rehearsal dinner to
your theme when we create these custom decorated, hand-
made butter cookies.
brunch the day after:
See photos at www.zingermansbakehouse.com Our experienced event planners will help you with all the
details making the planning an exciting time. We can help
2. Personalized brownies, cookies and you find the perfect location, arrange for all the rentals,
entertainment, flowers and decor. We will work with you to
Zzang! candy bars as gifts for guests design a tempting, flavorful menu sure to wow your guests.
On your wedding day, our event service staff will make sure
3. Gift baskets for your out-of-town guests each of your guests is treated like an honored member of the
Zingerman’s Mail Order is ready to bring the best of the Deli party. You’ll be able to relax and enjoy the day surrounded
to your guests’ door! Call us at 800.636.8162 to get started. by family and friends. Give us a call at 734.663.3400! Our
Event Planners would love to work with you to plan your
4. Delicious gifts for the wedding party perfect wedding.
Pamper your party with foods from one of the world’s “top
25 food markets!” (Food & Wine on Zingerman’s Delicatessen) 7. Bachelor and bachelorette parties with BAKE!—
our hands-on baking school
5. Rehearsal dinner at Zingerman’s Roadhouse Get your hands in the dough with your friends and family
The Roadhouse loves a party! We’ve hosted rehearsal din- for a day of baking (and eating) that you’ll remember for a
ners, day-after brunches and even a couple of ceremonies lifetime. Customize your class with cookies, pies, breads,
in our restaurant! The Roadhouse staff delivers attentive, cakes and more!
enthusiastic and down-to-earth service to our guests every
day. Everything you need while at the Roadhouse can be
provided, so that you can artfully fill the role of host.
Give us a call at 734.929.0331 or email
rhevents@zingermans.com
what's bakin' at
January Special Valentine’s Day
bake! Bread of the Month
8-Grain, 3-Seed Bread Rustic Italian Bread
January 2011
flax seed, a little honey (from just a hint of sweet butter or set a scoop of vanilla ice cream
K&K Honeybee Farms in Clare, on top of a warm slice. You’ll be sitting in front of the most Better Than San Francisco Sourdough
MI) and an irresistible crust of
toasted sunflower seeds.
decadent dessert you’ve had in years.
$4.50 (regular $6.25)
Available Monday, February 14. Good enough to ship back to California. Crisp, crackly
Call ahead to reserve yours! crust, moist honeycombed interior and the trademark
sour tang that will tickle your tongue.
cake of
the Month
whole cakes-of-the-month and
Black Olive Farm Bread Blueberry Buckle Bacon Pecan Sandy Cookies
20% OFF slices at the Bakehouse or Deli
Next Door coffeehouse! 1/7 & 1/8 1/28 2/12
A buckle is an American coffeecake that A sweet and salty satisfying mix—apple-
A crusty round of our signature farm
dates back to colonial times. Our sweet wood smoked bacon, toasted pecans in a
bread studded with marinated Greek
Cupcakes! olives. If there’s any left after snacking, it
and moist version has a bounty of wild melt-in-your-mouth buttery cookie, sprin-
blueberries, sweet butter, a touch of kled with a pinch of sugar and salt. Bacon
Cupcakes make people makes great bread crumbs for a twist on
orange and cinnamon, and is topped off lovers gotta try ‘em.
January 2011
JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2011
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ISSUE # 224