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organizational

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Wonder. AwE. RadicAl amAzeMEnt. How I lOve thEse qualiTIES … Awe is Such a qUintesSENTIally
marvelous qUALity of lIving aN enchANtEd life. AwE, LIke lovE, is nOt evEN an emotiON.
It is, above ALl, a wAy of being IN thE world.
—Omid Safi

Were she still alive, my mother likely would have loved of Yiddish poems—in 1933. Rather than follow the stan- prophet. The same pattern—to be initially written off as
that I’m writing here about a rabbi. The fact that what dard path that most rabbis would have, Heschel left Po- irrelevant but later revered—could well be what happens
I’m referencing is less about religion, but rather his uni- land to attend the University of Berlin. There, he immersed with Heschel’s area of focus. After all, awe might easily be
versal insights into the living of a meaningful life, might himself in a diverse range of subjects including Jewish dismissed as silly or superfluous, a matter to be left for
have dampened her enthusiasm. Still, she would almost tradition (both Orthodox and Reform), theology, poetry, mountain climbers or religious mystics, but hardly seen as
certainly have reminded me, Abraham Joshua Heschel is and philosophy, befriending in the process many of the a critical business and life skill. Heschel helped me to see
absolutely acknowledged as one of the great Jewish schol- great thinkers of the era, including philosopher Martin awe in the opposite light. I’m not religious, but his state-
ars of the 20th century. And while she would pretty surely Buber. In 1938, when he was 21 and a student living in a ment here holds true for my life, too: “Indifference to the
have preferred me to be talking here about the Torah, I rented room in Frankfurt, Heschel was arrested by the sublime wonder of living is the root of sin.”
have a feeling she’d also have been happy to hear about Gestapo and deported back to Poland. The following year Indifference, I would suggest, is also a contributor to an
how much impact Heschel’s thinking is having on my own. (just before the Germans invaded Poland), with the help unhealthy organizational culture. The inverse of apathy
While Heschel was a scholar of many subjects, the aspect of a handful of British rabbis, Heschel managed to make and inattentiveness is, of course, attention and awe. The
of his work that I want to focus on here is what he had his way to London and, the next year, to New York. His cost of actively engaging with awe is nil but its benefits,
to say about a subject that rarely comes up in business departure was fortuitous—Heschel’s mother and sisters I’ve been learning, can last a lifetime. Increasing our sense
classes. It’s a small word, but, I’ve come to realize, a very and most of his relatives were tragically killed by the Nazis of awe is an easy opportunity to make almost everything
big topic: Awe. As Heschel saw it, awe was integral to our in the Holocaust. around us—and the quality of our own lives—better. Awe,
health and well-being. It’s related to the attentiveness to Over the course of his career, Heschel would be seen as Heschel helped me see, builds positive beliefs and opens
which I have written a lot about in Secret #33: “Mindful- a philosopher, a poet, a writer. On Being’s Krista Tippett the door to excellence.
ness Matters” and again in the pamphlet “A Taste of Zin- called him “a mystic, a 20th-century religious intellec- Throughout his life and his work, Heschel held the idea of
german’s Food Philosophy,” in an essay about our “Four tual, a social change agent.” He was definitely a lifelong awe and amazement front and center. I’ve been realizing
Steps to Great Food.” For Heschel, though, it’s not enough learner who said that learning was a source of inspira- of late that every leader would be wise to do the same.
to just pay attention. He encourages us to go further still. tion and “the greatest adventure.” Heschel saw learning Heschel reminds us that “awe precedes faith; it is at the
We need to engage, as he says, with amazement. As Hes- as “a source of joy.” I can relate to what scholar Arnold root of faith. We must grow in awe in order to reach faith.
chel would have it, if we want to lead a good life, Eisen says of Heschel, sharing that he worked “in an of- We must be guided by awe to be worthy of faith.” It cer-
Our goal should be to live life in radi- fice surrounded by books, floor-to-ceiling books, with tainly guided Heschel in inspiring ways. Over the years,
cal amazement … get up in the morning barely enough room to stand or sit.” Through his study, he became a national thought leader who was willing to
and look at the world in a way that takes Heschel sought to live a life “compatible with the mystery challenge the norms, both in Jewish thought and also in
nothing for granted. Everything is phe- and marvel of human existence and learning.” Through- American society at large. His daughter, Susannah Hes-
nomenal; everything is incredible; never out his life, Heschel authored nearly 30 books. He taught chel, a professor of Jewish Studies, feminist, and Bibli-
treat life casually. To be spiritual is to be at the Jewish Theological Seminary in New York until his cal scholar, says, “My father was a person who said what
amazed. death in 1972. I’ve only taken in a small amount of what nobody else was saying and startled people because he
he authored, but Heschel’s work has brought me the sort was so different.”
Abraham Joshua Heschel was born in Warsaw in the win-
of awe he so strongly advocated. In the spirit of his drive
ter of 1907. The youngest of six children, he had prestigious
for lifelong learning, I look forward to reading a lot more
Praying with Our Feet
Hasidic rabbis on both sides of his family, which means he Drawing on what he derived from studies of the Hebrew
in the years to come.
came into an impressive lineage of Jewish mystics. From prophets, in the early ’60s Heschel became active in social
early childhood, Heschel assimilated what he calls “the Breaking Down Barriers change—“Praying with his feet” is what he called it. For
supreme value ascribed to learning and learning being a Although today Heschel is well known and highly thought him, “justice and compassion” were religious principles,
source of inspiration,” and he would continue to study of, his unorthodox ways did not originally win him a lot of out of which he became one of the early vocal opponents
hard and, as he often said, with rigorous self-discipline, fans. When he first arrived in the U.S., he would later say, of the war in Vietnam. On the 14th of January 1963, Heschel
for the rest of his life. After a traditional Orthodox ye- “I was a stranger in this country. My words had no power. was a speaker at the National Conference on Religion and
shiva education, Heschel decided to pursue more secular When I did speak, they shouted me down. They called me Race that was held in Chicago. He opened his talk by going
studies. By the age of 20, he’d already been ordained as a a mystic, unrealistic.” Later, of course, Heschel was consid- back to the Bible: “At the first conference on religion and
rabbi; six years later he published his first book—a volume ered by many to be a hero and something of a 20th-century race, the main participants were Pharaoh and Moses.”
Continued !

2 isSue #302 . jan-Feb 2024


Carrying the conversation into the challenges of his own It seems clear that we would do well to make radical Awe and Wonder at Work
era (and ours), he said, “It was easier for the children of amazement into our regular approach towards work as Awe, I can see clearly now, is an invitation to experience
Israel to cross the Red Sea than for a Negro to cross certain well. Adding awe to our daily routines and our organi- the world, and our work, more deeply. As Heschel ex-
university campuses.” Throughout his life, Heschel was zational constructs will cost us nothing, but the benefits plains:
committed to making a meaningful difference. It gives me are very clearly big. Learning to be attentive to awe is, I Awe is such a quintessentially marvelous
chills thinking about the Warsaw-born rabbi walking out realize, a meaningful life advantage. Some, like Heschel, quality of living an enchanted life. Awe, like
on stage 60 years ago and saying simply and directly that who grew up with it. He once remarked that his upbringing love, is not even an emotion. It is, above all,
“racism is man’s gravest threat to man, the maximum of was “very rich in moments of exaltation.” As an adult, he a way of being in the world. It is a way of
hatred for a minimum of reason, the maximum of cruelty enhanced that early childhood orientation by drawing on being with God, soulfully.
for a minimum of thinking.” the prophets, Jewish history, and philosophy to arrive at
It was at that conference that Heschel, then 55, met Dr. his adamant advocacy for “radical amazement.” In his book, Keltner details the “Eight Wonders of Life”—
Martin Luther King, Jr. King. King, whose 34th birth- check out Awe to get the details. The key of Keltner’s
Awe in the 21st Century work here, in a nutshell, is much the same message that
day was the following day, was also a speaker. In 1965,
Nearly half a century after Heschel’s death, psychologist Heschel offered us half a century ago. Awe, Keltner writes,
Heschel marched alongside Dr. King in Selma, and, in
Dacher Keltner helped to lead extensive scientific research “is the emotion we feel when we encounter vast myster-
1968, he introduced King as the keynote speaker at the
work on awe. His highly recommended book, Awe: The New ies that we don’t understand.” Awe and amazement open
Rabbinical Assembly of Conservative Judaism. The as-
Science of Everyday Wonder and How It Can Transform our hearts and our minds. We literally feel better. Summer
sembly greeted King by singing “We Shall Overcome” in
Your Life, backs up what Heschel knew in his heart. What Allen, Keltner’s colleague at the Greater Good Institute in
Hebrew. King, John Lewis, Andrew Young, Bayard Rustin,
is awe? In less religious terms than Heschel tended to use, Berkeley, says that instances of awe,
C.T. Vivian, and other leaders of the Civil Rights Move-
Keltner and his colleagues decided on this down-to-earth,
ment were all in conversation with Heschel. Many were
21st-century definition: … it turns out, are as common in human
said to have carried Heschel’s The Prophets with them for
life globally as they are measurably
reference almost everywhere they went. Had King not Awe is the feeling of being in the presence of
health-giving and immunity-boosting. They
been murdered that day in Memphis, he was scheduled something vast that transcends your cur-
bring us together with others, again and
to be a guest at Heschel’s Passover Seder the following rent understanding of the world. Awe is the
again. They bring our nervous system and
week, on Friday, April 12, 1968. Imagining that also gives emotion we experience when we encounter
heartbeat and breath into sync—and even
me goosebumps—a prime indicator of awe of the highest vast mysteries that we don't understand.
into sync with other bodies around us.
order, I’ve learned. Keltner’s work makes clear from countless studies that
In a 1972 interview with reporter Carl Stern for NBC News, awe is not merely an affect. It’s hugely practical and highly Where do we get awe most often? Keltner reports from
filmed a few weeks before Heschel’s death, Heschel shared important. The more awe, amazement, and wonder we add years of research that “it’s other people around us—ev-
that to his view, “a life without surprise is not worth living. to our days, the more likely it is we will lead healthful, re- eryday people—who bring us awe, and what we call moral
What keeps me alive is my ability to be surprised.” Stern warding, and fulfilling lives. Keltner says, “One simple pre- beauty.” The people in the studies cited awe as something
asks, “What has surprised you lately?” Heschel, with a scription can have transformative effects: Look for more that came from observing “ordinary people doing amazing
slight smile, enthusiastically answers: “Everything!” We daily experiences of awe.” Increased awe correlates with things.” Which means that you and I almost certainly have
would do well, I can see now, to follow his example. When lower levels of inflammation, and it also appears to facil- access to all the awe we need around us every day sim-
we pay attention to awe, we become both emotionally and itate more effective learning. Regular experiences of awe ply by showing up in the world. As Rabbi Jill Zimmerman,
physically healthier and happier. And when we show up help us shift our primary life focus away from possessions who has spent years studying Heschel’s work and teaches
to work every day, we would do well to arrive ready to be and money into more ethereal, uplifting, and emotionally a Jewish approach to mindfulness says:
radically amazed! meaningful experiences. Awe increases humbleness. It
Every day, intend to experience a sense of
slows down our sense of time and enhances generosity
Radical Amazement wonder in what you will encounter. It could
and collaboration. Awe helps you feel more connected to
be a baby’s laughter in the grocery line
Long before science showed the validity of his feelings, people around you and to the planet which, of course, in
ahead of you. It might be noticing a tulip
Heschel understood intuitively that awe opened the door turn reduces loneliness and increases hope. The subtitle
bulb as it begins to appear in the soil after
to almost everything else, explaining: of Keltner’s book says it well: awe is the new science of
a winter sleep. Perhaps it is observing that
Awe is more than an emotion; it is a way everyday wonder and also very concretely, it can trans-
you breathe without any conscious effort
of understanding, insight into a meaning form our lives.
on your part. Miracles are everywhere.
greater than ourselves. The beginning of Awe is, of course, what people experience when they see
awe is wonder, and the beginning of wis- natural beauty. It’s also what many find at big sports events Where Has All the Wonder Gone
dom is awe. or when they attend religious services. Closer to home If the opportunity to be awed is so readily available, why
Awe is an intuition for the dignity of all for me, awe is what my partner Tammie talks about when are so many of us missing it? Like many things in life,
things, a realization that things not only I get home at night, after she’s rescued a bird, found a hardly anyone taught us to pay attention. Heschel was
are what they are but also stand, however dragonfly at her farm, or watched praying mantis eggs fortunate: He openly credits his upbringing as being “rich
remotely, for something supreme. hatch. Awe is what I see when I watch Bea and Sol, our in moments of exultation.” Those of us who aren’t raised
Awe is a sense for the transcendence, for two sister rescue puppies chase each other around the to take note of awe and amazement though can easily
the reference everywhere to mystery beyond yard with incredible speed and grace, or when Tammie’s continue to miss out for the rest of our lives. While we
all things. It enables us to perceive in the latest rescue, Little Frankie Lee, runs joyfully on his short watch the headlines, we fail to see the small fantastic bits
world intimations of the divine ... to sense legs with her for four or five miles. At work, awe is what I of awesome beauty and excellence that are all around us.
the ultimate in the common and the simple. nearly always experience at the ZCoB huddle when I watch Instead of being regularly inspired, we just get by. For Hes-
everyone working so impressively together. Awe is what chel, that was a religious failure. Scholar of Sufi mysticism
We all know how much technology has changed over the
I love about a busy shift when the energy (see Secrets Omid Safi says, “Sin, for Heschel, is ultimately not about
last 20 years, but the truth is that our understanding of
#20/21 for more on energy) is really positive. It is, I think, eating this or not eating that, praying in this temple or that
awe has increased just as much. Ann Arbor-based physi-
what we’re attempting to identify when we tell each other temple, but a losing of that sublime wonder of being truly
cian, Dr. Afton Hasset reports in her book, Chronic Pain
that a product is a “ten” on our ten-point scale after we’ve alive.” All of which is, I believe, also wholly applicable to
Reset, that “before 2000, little research in this area existed
done the Four Steps to Great Food. Awe is also what I get the way we approach our work every day.
but since then investigators have shown increasing inter-
from learning new things, from connecting things that
est in understanding what the experience of awe means Unfortunately, much of 21st-century society is not liv-
weren’t otherwise connected, and, actually, from writing
to mind and body.” Hasset writes that when we feel awe ing in wonder, but is, instead, immersed in quick hits
pieces like this one. In truth, starting to understand awe
we are more likely—as Heschel was—to be in a state of of attention, algorithmic metrics, social media, and the
actually gave me awe. And as you can probably tell, I’m
humbleness and to feel a part of something greater than like. Rather than actively engage with wonder, many are
experiencing awe and radical amazement as I immerse
ourselves. It also has big physiological benefits. Hasset taught to see mostly what’s wrong and to worry about
myself in Heschel’s insightful work.
encourages us to mindfully plan “awelidays” for ourselves, why things have gone off course. Biographer Mary Mc-
times and spaces where we’re actively looking for awe! Gillicuddy writes about the Irish philosopher John Mori-
Heschel once wrote: arty. Moriarty, she says, “believed that the modern ‘lust to
Wonder or radical amazement is the chief explain things’ … has taken all sense of wonder and awe
characteristicof the religious man’s atti-
tude toward history and nature.

isSue #302 . jan-Feb 2024 3


and miracle from the world.” The return to the awe and awe. Awe, as Heschel says, gives us access to “the meaning remarkably right half a century ago.
amazement that Heschel advocated would appear to be beyond the mystery,” and Joe’s film does the same. It turns If you’ve been following what I’ve written in recent years,
an antidote. Heschel said, the “opposite of good is not evil, out that when you put together a lot of people’s answers you might well be wondering where awe fits into the orga-
the opposite of good is indifference,” and it’s clear to me you get a good composite understanding that far exceeds nizational ecosystem metaphor. Having spent the last few
now that it offers us a cure for the uncaring apathy that the sort of simple explanation that so many people are months reflecting on it, I got my answer in the conclusion
has worked its way into so many people’s lives. after. It still makes me smile all these years later, in part, of Dacher Keltner’s book. Awe, he says,
because everyone’s answer is unique, and, I realize now,
The Wonder of Zingerman's because I am in awe of their care, commitment, and in- Integrates us into the systems of life—com-
All of this has helped me, in the last few weeks, to real- sight. And it’s because of that awe, I now see, that so many munities, collectives, the natural environ-
ize for the first time that a big part of what people ex- of us have such a hard time explaining quickly what Zing- ment, and forms of culture. … The epiphany
perience when they come to Zingerman’s—assuming we erman’s is all about. As Heschel writes, “What we cannot of awe is that its experience connects our in-
do our work well—is awe. The Zingerman’s Experience, comprehend by analysis, we become aware of in awe.” dividual selves with the vast forces of life. In
which is the lead line in our Mission Statement (see Se- awe we understand that we are part of many
cret #05), should, when we do it right, be an awe-some Wonder for the Future things that are much larger than the self.
experience. I can see now that awe underlies and embel- So what should we do about all this? Very much, I believe, Awe, then, is what allows us to really experience our eco-
lishes almost everything we want to do. I see too, that what we’ve been working to do with other things that system in all its amazingness. Whether it’s taking in the
when we really live our Mission, we will have effectively have come to the fore here in recent years. Hope, beliefs, beauty of the big picture, or the way that one tiny part of
evoked awe. When we fall a bit short, the experience will generosity, kindness, dignity, purpose, all benefit from it is enhanced by being part of the whole, awe opens our
be okay, but not awesome. And yet, as Heschel already un- increased awareness and diligent practice. Dismissed by understanding of the universe! Without it, we are isolated
derstood all those years ago and what 21st-century science many as “soft skills,” they are all actually incredibly im- and alone. With it, we are welcomed into the wonder that
has now proven true: Awe is what we all need to go after. portant. When it comes to the subject at hand here, we was already all around us!
Closer to home, awe helps people—customers and co- would do well every time we go to work to imagine that we
Heschel’s contemporary, the philosopher Rabbi Fritz Roth-
workers alike—bond into what we do here at Zingerman’s. are passing each day through what poet Gary Snyder calls
schild writes that Heschel’s “life and work can perhaps
Awe inspires loyalty and also leads us to love. The radical “the Gates of Awe.” And once we’ve gone through, we can:
best be understood as an attempt to create a viable syn-
amazement Heschel advocated is also, it turns out, good
• Talk about awe. thesis between the traditional piety and learning of East-
business. When we evoke awe, we create life-changing
ern European Jewry and the philosophy and scholarship of
experiences for guests and staff alike. • Comment on awe.
Western civilization.” I would suggest that this essay is a
All of this came clear to me the other day while getting • Tell stories about awe. comparable attempt to create a viable synthesis between
interviewed about our Perpetual Purpose Trust by writer Heschel’s interpretation of Jewish mysticism and modern
• Use stories of awe as an icebreaker at
Maureen O’Hagan. She asked me a good question, one that progressive organization. I am in awe of what Heschel was
meetings.
comes up often in these sorts of conversations: “How do able to do during the course of his life, and also by realiz-
you describe Zingerman’s to someone who’s never been • Remind people—which is part of the work ing how much impact awe can have on our organizational
here?” I laughed. “It’s hard.” of increasing hope as well—that they are and personal health. If we follow Heschel’s lead, the next
Later that afternoon, I remembered that I’d already done part of something much greater than bit of amazement is surely right around the corner.
the work to answer Maureen’s good question. Nearly ten themselves. Sharing a long-term vision
years ago now, I asked my friend the fabulous Mississippi (see the pamphlet “The Story of Vision-
filmmaker Joe York to make a little film about our orga- ing at Zingerman’s”), group gatherings,
nization. My belief was that there is no singular answer the new staff orientation class (see Se-
to the oft-asked “What is Zingerman’s?” and the fact that cret #49), etc. are all ways that we hope Co-founder of the Zingerman's Community of Businesses
there isn’t one is actually the point. The organization’s ex- to do that!
P.S. Sharing stories of awe, I’ve come to believe, helps en-
cellence is embedded in the reality that there is no good Above all, it might be to teach, practice, and talk about hance our ability to be aware of it. I would love to learn
elevator pitch for it. Joe’s film is composed by going around the entire idea of living—and working—as much as we about what you learn, to hear about the awe and wonder
with his handheld camera and taking close-ups of people can, as Heschel suggested so many years ago, “in radical you have experienced of late.
who work here, each answering Maureen’s question in amazement.” In the spirit of which, I’m appreciating the
their own very personal way. In fact, it’s entitled, “What beauty of a beyond wonderful day in Michigan, amazed
is Zingerman’s?” at what Heschel did over the course of his life. I’m in awe,
too, of all the recent research by Dacher Keltner and his
As Joe’s little documentary film makes clear, there is no
colleagues that demonstrates how Heschel had it
single simplistic answer. Or maybe, I see now, the answer is

4 isSue #302 . jan-Feb 2024


If you’ve been inside the Deli recently, you may have noticed the col-
lection of cookbooks we have for you to peruse. Having recently led
a Zingerman’s Food Tour to Basque Country, the sight of the Basque
Country cookbook stopped me in my tracks. Looking through the book,
I was immediately taken back to a place I fell in love with. I grabbed the
book, a tin of white anchovies, some Berria de Onetik Bleu des Basques
cheese, and went home to continue my journey. That’s just what a book

A Carefully Curated
can do—it can take you to another time, and another place. It can wel-
come you in and stir up emotions—as well as an appetite!

Collection of Cookbooks I wanted to know more about how these books are being chosen, so I
sat down one afternoon with Darrell, our book buyer extraordinaire,
and chatted about the Deli’s curated collection. I heard about his vision
An Interview with Zingerman’s Deli Book Buyer, DarrelL Jackson
for the books, as well as a few surprises!

Director at Zingerman's Press


and Tour Guide in Spain

Zingerman’s News: So! Tell us a little bit about what don’t want it to be prohibitively expensive for folks, like an of Jubilee from Tony Tipton-Martin, and then we’re going
you do at the Deli, and how you got started with El Bulli cookbook. I love what they put out. But also, $400 to bring in Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs, and Juice. We've got this
curating the cookbooks we offer? for a cookbook is a particular market. It's like our Balsamic fantastic one that I'm over the moon about—Lune: Crois-
vinegar. I don't want the stuff in the Lucite case to be the sants All Day, All Night. It's all about this rocket scientist
Darrell: I’ve been at the Deli for 9 years. I suppose I’m a only thing that we sell. I want to have a Judaica section, I who turned croissant maker, and she's obsessed. And we
bit of a Mr. Do It All (a nod to the ’90s NJ rap group, Lords want to celebrate Ari’s books, and I also want to have a lot have some weird novelty ones, which I'll just buy a small
of the Underground) in regards to my skill sets in the spe- of female authors. And authors with a particular melanin amount of. I'd like it to be fun as well. It doesn't need to be
cialty foods subspecialties. A former bread buyer at the component—so I feel like I'm actually cooking with folks sober. I think we're a pretty goofball bunch here. so I want
Deli, I'm still an ever curious home baker. I dig goat cheese, who I grew up around. it reflected in the books that we have a sense of humor.
honey, and making links between products that we stock
And for the seasonality thing, there's no reason Zingerman’s News:
with recipes both historical and modern. I’m a life-long
that we should have one that's just stuck on As you approach this
bookworm. My mom's fancy bound Time Life volume and
the shelf. Much like fruit, it's gonna go work, you’re think-
her more accessible Betty Crocker Cookbook with the tabs
out of season. In Michigan at least, ing , “I want to di-
set me off on my journey. When it comes to the book sec-
you're not getting tomatoes at Chromatic culinary versify this section,
tion at the Deli, I always had a bigger plan for this all.
the farmers market right now. connoisseurs coalesce! but also I'm going to
Trevor [Ed note: that’s Trevor Murray, Deli Specialty Foods
So I think the books should Coffee table book that change it up through-
Manager] and I kept bugging the folks who were doing the
move like that. The publish- is also a fully functional out the year.” Other
ordering at the time, saying “Hey this title would be cool!”
ing industry always rolls cookbook. You made an than our Zingerman’s
I showed a lot of enthusiasm, and then after a while, the
along, and there will always effort to look good today, books, are there any
reins were handed over to me!
be something new. When I why not extend that cour- that you’ve chosen to
Zingerman’s News: Fantastic! So, what is your vision bring in a fantastic cook- tesy to your plate? keep in the rotation?
for the cookbook selection? book—like last year’s First Make meals/life more beautiful!
Darrell: There are so
Darrell: People don't come to us for the mass market Generation: Recipes from My many books. When I go
stuff. They come to us for a curated, nuanced experience. Taiwanese-American Home by -DarRelL to the bookstore, I look for
And I'd like to reflect that in the books. Not everybody has Frankie Gaw—even when it sells something new, as well as the
the time to go to the library and be a library rat, and I want well, I will still love bringing in other old stuff. I look for reprints of things
to be that person for them. I love shopping for cookbooks voices. So now we're going to move on to that I thought didn't get enough service. So
for myself and giving them as gifts. I think it’s the most use- Jon Kung with his book Kung Food: Chinese American I'll bring back something like Nose Dive by Harold McGee
ful subset of books outside of, maybe, How to Fix a Bike. Recipes from a Third-Culture Kitchen: A Cookbook. (Kung or I'll bring back Salt by Mark Kurlansky. I'll bring back
is a Detroiter, by way of Toronto.) Pizza Camp by Joe Beddia a little bit later. But my goal is
I think in today's busy world where people might be
crunched for time to read, cookbooks are the easiest to have a seasonal calendar. Your bookshelf should move
I want to have something that feels like tourism, too—
short story. You have a narrative through line for the whole and grow, right?
much like the Zingeraman’s Food Tours. If all food is as-
thing, and much like a book of short stories, you might pirational in one way or the other, then with a cookbook, I have one on pierogi coming back, and the Noma Guide de
follow one protagonist through all this stuff, but these you can take a trip. I want people to take vacations, and Fermentation—that's never gonna get old, but I'm going to
are just different little vignettes. Picking up a cookbook any good travel agent will offer more than just this one bring in another one on fermenting. I want you to be able
that's well written is kind of like picking up a book of short location. We have different baking and cooking princi- to do this on your counter. If you're a college student, I
stories that you can also use. Maybe like a book of poetry, ples in different parts of the world. I’m bringing in a book want you to be able to do this. If you're in assisted living,
but you can feed people, too. They don't necessarily have about food in Kazakhstan, which is a little like a travelog. I want you to be able to enjoy food. Right? All this stuff.
to hear the story of the food, but it is really cool if that We have Diasporican: A Puerto Rican Cookbook by Illy- So I want this to be a complete loop—servicing as many
can happen as well. anna Maisonet, which we’re almost sold out of. And then people as I can realistically and still have them be fun and
I want to have a mixture of rustic, kooky, stylized ... And I we’ll bring in something new. We’ve got a few copies left clever things that we offer.

isSue #302 . jan-Feb 2024 5


Hopefully, it's curated enough that I'm getting it down to Zingerman’s News: That’s amazing! If I walk into any
where you can come in here and you can be guaranteed bookstore and ask, “What recipe did you cook out
some novelty. I want to be a destination for all that stuff. of this book?” Who is going to say, “Well, I made
For folks to walk in and feel, “Wow, what a book section! the challah on page 72, but I made it with goose fat
Zuka Zak has truly I can't get this collection anywhere else.” I want to make instead of oil…”
cast a spell with this sure that people who had trouble finding parking can easily
Darrell: Ha. It's not amazing. It's just life. Ideally, that’s
one. The history of this find a book they love.
what you should be getting from a bookseller—just as any-
constellation of dump-
Zingerman’s News: So our definition of Great Food body behind the line can tell you what the cheese goes
lings, the regions that they
at Zingerman’s is “full flavored, and traditionally with. I have plenty of opinions on honey and oil and all that
originate from, and confi-
made.” Are you using this as a guide in choosing the other stuff. That’s also why you have to curate it, right? Be-
dent, easy-to-follow recipe
books and the recipes within? cause I can't take on 100 books. If I get a stack of 20 books
writing makes this a winner.
from the library or from the publisher, I can at least skim
Pick it up and expand your horizons past Darrell: Certainly. That's most of them—the cocktails,
them and see how they’ve put it together, and how they
the potato/bacon/cheddar mainstays. the bagels… And the Lavash book! It’s just gorgeous, with
are to read. You can kind of see how a recipe will go, what
Armenian flatbreads. Also, as I’ve been looking at it, what
the interesting flavor notes are on a particular recipe, and
-DarRelL is tradition except people having their circumstances dic-
whether you feel like duplicating it.
tated by whatever the constrictions of the time are? So,
yeah, they’ll have “tradition,” and they'll have a riff on tra- You can quickly search for a recipe online. What’s the
dition. Like the Chinese Sausage Corn Dog. So you could point of spending 35 or 40 dollars on something? That's
Zingerman’s News: I love cookbooks, but I rarely skewer it through, cook it, and put it in a corn dog batter. why I think the personal anecdotes that are included
cook out of them. I have many, and I still buy them. Traditionally, that's American Fair food. And traditionally, really go a long way. I just try to walk through all that stuff.
I love to be inspired by them. Is that also something that is Chinese snacking food, right? Then you have the When choosing what you’re going to spend your money
you imagine folks doing when they come here and third culture kind of thing where people are immigrating on, for me, it’s from an era of buying CDs with the money
pick up a book? from one place to another, and you're melding those two that I made from my job over the summer. There are some
things. That's it. It is technically a traditional mashup. I also stinkers in there where you wish you got the Maxi single
Darrell: Yes, sure! I think about it this way. If you’re a pot-
test these recipes before I put a book on the shelf, which instead. So I want to make sure people don't have just one
ter, and you go to a museum, you're not necessarily going
is the joy of having galley copies. hot recipe and the writing is suspect. That's where you lose
to do like Kehinde Wiley and take on creating a statuary.
faith in the place that you're buying the book from, right?
But you're gonna be inspired and then hopefully move that Zingerman’s News: You’ve cooked out of each one of
As we aim for great food, I treat it like corn beef; you're
into whatever your practice is. You don’t have to do it to these books on the shelf?!
trimming, you're getting the silver skin off, and you're get-
perfection or “get it all right.” I didn't bring in the Noma
Darrell: Of course I do. It would be like trying to sell a car ting the best possible cut.
book where you have tweezers and you need to get a Mal-
lard that you've shot and you take the left wing and you I haven’t driven. We have astute guests, and someone is in-
Zingerman’s News: Given your long history of cook-
bandage up all the feathers. I want the books to be an in- variably going to ask me how something worked out. And
ing, what are some things that you've learned in
spiration. I want this to be an easy space for everybody to I'd rather let them know that I actually read that miscel-
these books that were helpful tips you’d like to
navigate. I'd like it to be like the favorite bookshop in the lany about how you're gonna achieve a better pie crust or
share?
movie that has an eccentric owner who slides around on this is the problem with this sticking on page 273. I'd much
a ladder. rather have a close reading of it than just go with what the Darrell:
publisher said, or that the cover was cool. I mean, I saw • To get started, you don't need any more equipment
Zingerman’s News: As you said, you don't have to buy
Ant-Man Quantumania based on the poster, and man, than you have. Just get a sharp knife.
these because you're going to cook something out
I'm not doing that again. I usually cook a pantry item, a
of them. There's an entire world of travel or perhaps
dessert, and a few others. • That said, if you can find a mold for a particular re-
a new writing style, or a cultural lesson in there for
petitive task, buy that mold—be it plastic or metal.
you. What’s the deeper connection you see waiting?
For pelmeni, ravioli, pierogi, and more!
Darrell: Coming back to the farmers market and season-
Clear your • Put a little vodka in your pie crust to make it flakier.
ality, the cookbooks make it come alive in a different way. throat and channel
If you have that ephemerality model of things, much like your best Edith Piaf. • This is from Sister Pie: Grating a little Mimolette
a cheese coming in and out of a season, then you just The opening chords of cheese into your pie crust—it boosts everything.
have a slightly different time signature—if the farmers "La Vie En Rose" are ris-
market is 4/4, then I'm trying to operate in 5/4. Because • If you're doing a cornstarch slurry, why not put a
ing in the background from
cookbooks don't go bad unless maybe you drop them little turmeric in there?
a portable speaker. Is that a
and break the spine, and then they're still good—you ripe brie you smell? You have • You don't have to spend a whole bunch of money.
can look forward to spring when certain recipes are that baguette/brick of gour- You don't have to buy a Cornish game hen. Just make
in season. Or augment them at other times of the year. met butter in your basket. You are picturing your it work for you and your budget.
I want everybody's cookbook collection to be kind of favorite scene in "Amelie" and smiling to your-
like their album collection. Imagine it like a moment self while Monsieur Hulot does a layered prat- • Learn a recipe well, and then make little alterations.
in your life … you're pulling it down, you're listening fall in the background. Much like songs, where you play that one favor-
to it, you’ve got your whole scene set. You might want Pick up this book, ya big Francophile! ite song on a loop (or at least my wife does) over
a breakup cookbook. Or a falling-in-love cookbook. Or a and over. Find your cookbook. That's gonna be your
this-is-a-really rough-time cookbook. Or this is the repast. -DarRelL album. Let's just do a Beyoncé thing. You find your
Or grandma memories. All of these different things. I want “Break My Soul” in that cookbook and rock with that
there to be occasions there. one. Then play all the remixes. If a flavor combina-
tion worked well with rice, try it on a potato. Cook
that one until you’re tired of it, until the page is cov-
ered with sauce stains.

Check out our cookbook collection, carefully Zingerman’s News: What else do you want people to
selected by Deli Specialty Foods staffer and know about the collection?
epicurious bibliophile Darrell Jackson. Darrell: We have so many fun books coming in. I’m happy
Plus, find the ingredients you need to start to talk to you about a recipe. I wanna know how your dish
cooking! From baking supplies—including turned out. Give me a call, send me a picture. I'm happy to
Michigan eggs, butter, and milk—to pantry do all that stuff. I love food, and I hope other people love
provisions—from honey to hot sauce, beans food too in different ways—it's a nice kind of quilt of things.
to bulgur, and so much more. Or rather, a tablecloth. Mixed metaphors and all that stuff.
Everything should be in conversation with everything else
Visit shop.zingermansdeli.com
in the Deli. This whole collection is moving and flowing.

Get Your Goods:


Goods:
Come ask me questions. I'm happy to talk your ear off.

Pickup at the Deli or Opt for home delivery in the Ann Arbor area in under 3 hours.

6 isSue #302 . jan-Feb 2024


taSTY nEW ADditIoNs TO tHe
zinGERMaN’S comMUnITy
usheriNg In 2024 witH ARI’S LaTEst flAVOrFUL fiNDS

Wonderful tiNnEd
fish From a teRrifIc
Noccioliva Suprêmes from the Bakehouse woman-OWNed Superb Sardines
If you like croissants and you have a crush on any combination
company
and Anchovies
of dark chocolate and hazelnuts, man, have we got a treat for CroisSant cIRCles from Fishwife
you! The Bakehouse has put together these super tasty stufFed wiTh artIsAn
hazelnut choCOLaTe Some of the tastiest tinned fish we’ve gotten in of late are com-
new Noccioliva Suprêmes!
spread fRom ItALY ing from the folks at Fishwife. Founder Becca Millstein is the
If you aren’t yet familiar with the term “Suprême,” woman who’s leading the way, and she and the team there are
this popular pastry has been taking New York by storm doing some wonderful work! Writing in the New Consumer a
over the last year. We have our own version here in couple of years ago, Dan Frommer says, "Fishwife, a Los
Ann Arbor. The Bakehouse’s butter-laden croissant Angeles-based startup, is reinvigorating a grocery cat-
dough is formed into a circle instead of a crescent egory one can at a time." Everything about their fish—
and then filled with an artisan hazelnut chocolate including these newly arrived from Spain sardines—
spread. Noccioliva is, impressively, not all that is excellent. I’m in awe of the whole project, everything
sweet at all but it is remarkably tasty! It is made from from the eating quality of the little fish to Becca’s
a very high percentage (38%) of Italian hazelnuts values-based approach to business to the beautiful illus-
(some of the best in the world), dark chocolate, trations on the package by designer Danny "Danbo" Miller.
extra virgin olive oil, and a small bit of sugar. The
finished pastry is super rich, really buttery, and The fish are carefully canned at a third-generation company
terrifically tasty! in northern Spain on the Cantabrian Coast and the only Ma-
rine Stewardship Council fishery in Europe. And, unusual for
the tinned fish world where most items are packed in lower
quality, lower cost olive oil, the Fishwife sardines and an-
chovies are packed solely in extra virgin olive oil from a
third-generation single farm in Galicia. What should you
do with such delicious little fish? A Bakehouse baguette
Ari's favorite
spread with good butter and topped with anchovy filets is
tinned tuna!
IASA Italian Yellowfin Tuna so awesomely good I could probably eat it almost every day. (Take note
at the Cream Top Shop that in anchovy fishing areas this is a typical breakfast meal to have with
morning coffee!) The sardines are terrific on their own, for sandwiches,
A terrific tuna from the tiny town of Cetara on on pasta, or with rice. Experiment and enjoy!
the southwest coast of Italy, near Salerno. While
I know the majority of the market has long been You can also now get the Fishwife sardines and anchovies at the Road-
in love with whiter albacore, I’ve always been house as part of the new, previously mentioned, Breadventure appe-
more inclined to the darker color and fuller tizer. With the addition of these terrific, tinned fish; the super Bay of
flavor of yellowfin, which is exactly what we’re Fundy-raised, Maine-smoked (over cherry, apple, hickory, and oak)
getting from the small, family-owned firm of salmon; and all the other diverse accouterments, it’s becoming quite a
IASA (pronounced “ee-yah-sah”). Scandinavian sort of smørrebrød! Swing by the Deli or Roadhouse and
score some Fishwife fish soon!
The town is known for its fish—Cetara’s been said for centuries to have the best seafood
on the Amalfi coast. The name comes from cetaria, an ancient method for the local
trapping of wild tuna. During the fishing season, April through September, the com-
pany employs a team of 50 local workers. Lovely whole pieces of filet are hand-placed
into glass jars; this tuna is awesome!
Marqués de Valdueza
Agridulce Vinegar
If rare, sweet-sour,
A Zingerman’s Culinary Tour of super-aged vinegars
Very rare and wonderful
are your thing, like
the Canary Islands Debuts they are mine, you’ll aged vinegar from
western Spain!
want to grab a bottle
Conde Nast Traveler called the Canaries some of “Spain’s Secret Islands.” Their recommen-
or two of this special
dation? “To truly get away from it all, look beyond Spain’s usual suspects and discover one
new arrival ASAP. It
of these lesser-known escapes.” If you want to heed that expert advice, if you’re looking for
belongs in the same
a once-in-a-lifetime culinary tour to a place that hardly anyone you know will have been, a
family as long-aged Balsamics from
place with great wine, exceptional cheese, volcanic beaches, and
Italy, the lovely PX Sherry Vinegar
a style of cooking all its own, come with us on the Zingerman’s
Seven days of from southern Spain, the little-known
Food Tour to the Canary Islands.
exceptional eating, but terrific Banyuls from France, and
drinking & learning The debut tour this year (February 24–March 3) sold out quickly, the amazing Rozendaal vinegars from
but another one has been added to the calendar for 2025 South Africa. Agridulce Vinegar from
(February 22–March 2). I know it’s a ways out on the calendar, the Marqués de Valdueza is a very lim-
but that one will likely sell out too, so I wanted to put ited edition. Only 4,211 bottles were pro-
the word out there now while there are still seats! Eu- duced for the whole year! For context,
ropeans have long gone there as one of the continent’s a large vinegar factory might do that in
top tourist destinations and soon it will be the same for a single day!
those who live on this side of the Atlantic. My forecast
The vinegar is made solely with the es-
is that Americans are going to discover them as well, not
tate’s own products. Hand-harvested
just for the beaches, but for the unique culture and ex-
grapes are crushed to produce fresh
ceptional cooking!
juice, known in the wine world as “grape must,” which is slowly re-
They’ve been called “the Fortunate Islands,” because duced down over many years to concentrate the natural sugars and
the weather is pretty much a moderate and marvelous the complex flavors. The other ingredient that is carefully blended with
spring-like 12 months out of the year, which makes them the aged must is the Valdueza’s very fine wine vinegar. Made using the
a great place to get away from the last month of winter traditional, natural Orleans method, the wine vinegar was begun over
here in southeastern Michigan. Sign up soon for the 2025 a decade ago, in 2013. The resulting condiment is compellingly bright,
tour before those seats are sold out! almondy, and aromatic with an amazingly long finish.

isSue #302 . jan-Feb 2024 7


Vermont The co-star of a
Monnalisa Marzolino at the Cream Top Shop
new Roadhouse
Cultured Butter appetizer
Monnalisa Marzolino is a marvel-
with French ous new sheep’s milk cheese from
Super tasty soft
Sea Salt sheep’s milk cheese
central Italy that’s just recently
arrived at the Cream Top Shop. I
from Tuscany think it’s terrific. Modest but with
The good folks at Vermont Creamery are
working wonders with their old-school a very full, mouth-filling flavor, the
cultured butter! For the last three or four Marzolino is mellow and milky,
months it’s been a co-star with the Bake- with a semi-soft texture, and a
house artisan breads on the Roadhouse’s new terrific long clean, creamy finish.
Breadventure appetizer.
The dairy is located about two kilometers from the
It starts with fresh cream from the Vermont cows at St. ancient Tuscan town of Sienna, and the family has
Albans Cooperative Creamery. The co-op, which was started all the way artisan food shops in the town, in addition to their
back in 1919, has over 350 members. The fresh cream is received at the farmland. The folks who make it, the Morbidi family, are
Creamery and pasteurized. Live cultures are added to the cream and deeply committed to caring for the land and the animals
allowed to ripen, much as one would do with yogurt or cheese. The both. Their own herd accounts for about 1/3 of the milk they
cream is allowed to rest in the vat for 24 hours, where it thickens and use, the rest comes from neighboring farms. Antonio Morbidi is the third generation in
develops wonderfully tangy flavor notes of buttermilk and hazelnuts. the family to run the farm and the dairy and the fourth generation is now in training, too.
Essentially, it’s made as all good butter was a century and a half ago.
I love the Monnalisa Marzolino with that marvelous Pear Mostarda from the Quince and
You really can taste the difference. The butter has been getting regular
Apple folks in Madison (it’s at the Cream Top Shop as well—grab a jar soon). Good too
rounds of oohs and aahs from folks who’ve tried it over the last few
months! At very high 86% butterfat, it’s creamy, super-tasty, complex, on a grilled cheese, pizza, or salad. Or just stick some on the table while folks sip wine
and gently nutty. (You can, of course, buy a whole log of the Vermont and watch how frequently they reach for more of the Marzolino.
butter at the Roadhouse if you ask.)

Powerhouse Nibble Chocolate Bar


from Shawn Askinosie Dark Chocolate Caramelized Almonds and
Milk Chocolate Caramelized Hazelnuts
S h aw n A s k i n o s i e wa s
one of the first bean-to- two cacaos come In our never-ending efforts to
bar chocolate makers in together from improve the flavor of our food, Two terrific new
the U.S. 15 or so years ago farms with nearly two years ago we began to confections from
women leaders French Broad
and he remains one of the migrate some of the chocolate we
Chocolate in Asheville
best to my taste today. His use at the Bakehouse. For years
newest bar features the we’d long been using well-known
cacao beans of two co-ops, and well-regarded dark chocolate
both of which are led by wise and caring from a couple of large European
women. Monica Guarman, who works in firms. Over the years though, it became ever clearer
the Amazon, and Mama Mpoki, who leads that what we once considered high-quality could
the Mababu Coop in Tanzania. Both of be improved upon. Enter our friends at French Broad
the two “origin” bars made from their Chocolate. We made using their bean-to-bar dark
cacao—the Askinosie Amazonia bar chocolate from Nicaragua in half a dozen products—what
and the Tanzania bar—are outstanding. a wonderful improvement that was! Try it in the Chocolate
I’ve eaten both regularly over the years. Here they come together for a special Cherry Bread, the Dobos Torta, and the Townie Brownies just
one-time-only joint appearance in a super tasty new bar of dark chocolate, coated to name a few.
liberally with cracked cacao nibs to make it even more engaging and enticing.
The result is a compelling combination of crunchy nibs and smooth chocolate In the last couple of months, we’ve also begun bringing in some of French Broad’s superb
in each bite. It’s dark but not too dark. items. Two that are at the top of my list are their Dark Chocolate Caramelized Almonds
and their Dark Chocolate Caramelized Hazelnuts. Both are terrific. The main flavors you
I’ve been eating it as is, but it’s also great, as a Roadhouse guest reminded me get from each are the chocolate and the nuts, and both are of very high quality. While the
the other day, with red wine after dinner. Some folks I know have been putting a two confections have a bit of sugar, neither is particularly sweet. What they are is super
bit of that wonderful Georgia Grinders almond butter on it. The Askinosie folks delicious! My friend Jael Ratigan, co-founder of French Broad, told me that they worked
say it’s got a “satisfying crunch meets creamy-dark-chocolate-richness.” I say it’s for many months to get the ratios of chocolate, nuts, and sugar just right. I think they hit
super tasty, fun to eat, and hugely enjoyable with lots of mouth-watering fruit- their mark! On top of how good they taste, the pale Carolina-blue packaging is particularly
iness. It’s a chocolate bar I can eat—and already have eaten—often. lovely. Great to gift for Valentine’s Day or just something special to stash in your desk!

New pamphlet on dignity by Zingerman’s Co-Founder Ari Weinzweig

“a revolutiOn of dIgNiTy In OUR DAiLY lIVEs”


Making a Difference for Everyone We Work With, All Day, Every Day

Dignity has long been part of what we do here at Zingerman’s. It’s embedded in many of our
approaches—Servant Leadership, Open Book Management, Bottom-Line Change®, our Training
Compact, etc. All are based on treating people with dignity. Dignity is referenced in our 2032
Vision and our Statement of Beliefs. In this forthcoming pamphlet, Ari shares why that’s all a good
start, while also suggesting that we all have more work to do. He says:
Any organization that works hard to make the six elements of the Revolution of Dignity come
alive is likely to be high in hope, rooted in positive beliefs, higher in humility, etc. We can each
do this work in our own way. All of the approaches we use here at Zingerman’s support this
work: if we can help keep hope high, work to make our beliefs ever more positive, make sure
that Servant Leadership is the norm, and make empathy and compassion everyday activities,
we will help make the Revolution of Dignity real.
Ari's writing has won praise from progressive leaders around the world. Seth Godin, author of an
array of best-selling books on marketing, business, life, and art—including his most recent, Song of
Significance—says: “The essence of Ari’s philosophy is simple: It's possible to care.” Stephen
Satterfield, co-host of the Netflix series “High on the Hog,” says that Ari’s books and pamphlets
"Give hope!"
Making a Differenc
Ari's contributions to the American Food & Beverage community are invaluable, but not just e for Eve ne We
All Day, Everyryo
Day
Work With,
the enormous success of his businesses that need to be studied but his convictions! It gives
hope! I ALWAYS take something away from Ari's writing and am grateful for how generous he
has been in sharing.

8 isSue #302 . jan-Feb 2024


ing G i f t s for Va lentin


u c
d

e 's
In

Da
-
Awe

Nestled just inside Zingerman’s Cofee Co., out on Plaza Drive by Zingerman’s Bakehouse and Creamery, our Candy
Store has the best sweet treats for your sweetheart (and everyone else from your coworkers to kiddos). You’ll
find a wide range of made-by-hand candy bars, like the berry-delicious Wowza!, made with raspberry chocolate
y
ganache, raspberry nogat,and thick-cooked raspberry preserves.
The shelves are also stocked with curated treats from fellow artisan candy makers from Missouri to
Massachusetts, Iceland to Sweden, and beyond. Get ready to be tempted by varietal chocolate bars, gummies,
hard candies, nougat, licorice, caramels, brittles, peanuts, and more.
Come by soon to meet our candy-loving crew and sample some of our superb, sweet, hand-crafted candies, choc-
olates, and confections! We’ve got great gifts for Valentine’s and sweet stuff to brighten any dark winter day!

Visit Zingerman's Candy Shop


on Plaza Drive!

3723 Plaza Dr. #5


3723 Plaza Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 3711 Plaza Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 422 Detroit St. Ann Arbor, MI 48103 (inside Coffee Co.) Ann Arbor, MI 48108 3723 Plaza Dr. #5 Ann Arbor, MI 48108
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734-619-8100 | cornmanfarms.com 734.929.0500 | zingermanscreamery.com 734.663.3354 | zingermansdeli.com 888.316.2736 | zingermansfoodtours.com 734.230.2300 | zingermansgreyline.com

610 Phoenix Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108 415 N. Fifth Ave. Ann Arbor, MI 48104 418 Detroit St. Ann Arbor, MI 48104 2501 Jackson Rd. Ann Arbor, MI 48103 3728 Plaza Dr. Ann Arbor, MI 48108
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