Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Gale R. Owen
1976
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1. Illuminated manuscripts
have no known source2 and their costume may therefore have been
derive from 5
a continental antecedent. The style of English
derive his drawings from a model, but created directly from the
Harley 603.
their activity..
period.
men, as well as to observe what may have been some less common
life, more comparable with the Claudius Biv and Calendar illus-
time of their defeat when that event was within living memory.
463"
3. Sculptures
and not all carved figures are relevant for the present purpose.
lack detail.
many of the works are northern, any variations from the costume
4. Ivories
was a popular medium for such works, and a small number of ivory
12
carvings of this kind may provide evidence of costume.
6
The earliest example, and, for the present purpose, the
No exact model has been found, and since the figures in the
5. Metalwork
pagan and conversion periods, and most are irrelevant for the
a human torso.
the figures in the Vespasian Psalter (which have not here been
the Brooch and one feature of the costume worn by the figures
6. Organization
1. Fernale costume
shoes.
Cotton Cleopatra Cviii (fol. 23v), has her head uncovered and
wore their hair long and loose over their shoulders, with a
homes women of all classes wore their hair the same way".
above, are depicted with covered heads indoors and out.. There
centre but about a third of the way across. The veil was
draped over the head in such a way that the face and throat
between the loose hood with many folds which appears on some
back than at the front; or, more rarely, it may combine the
the hood at the back. These probably belong to the piece -of
in this way, but as the queen was of Norman birth, and her hus-
577 (27645) (£ol.. lv), wears a scarf or veil under the hood. The
two loose ends pass, together, from under the hood at the front, '
hood. The scarf covers the head, before crossing on the breast,
passing under the armpits and hanging forward over the arms.
the king on the right of the picture, but need not carry equal
figure 6
and its companion in the illustration as male, but although
the figure on the left is bearded and wears a tunic, the right-
hand figure (with the hat) wears a long gown and has. - no obvious
and not fastened or shaped in any way at the neck (Plate "ZCIV,
left-hand figure).
have fitted sleeves, but hangs from the shoulders to cover the
arms, being raised when the hands are lifted, as they always are
this robe (Plate XVI, left-hand figure), and the tight inner
back and front; if it were not central, the garrcient might hang
mated with the usual hood, depicting a garment which hung from
(Plate XXVI).
but there is some overlap. Artists may have felt confusion over
which an artist has drawn a female figure with one arm covered
hybrid. (For
shoulder -- an impossible example the Virgin
473"
11
in Cambridge, University Library MS Ff. 1.23, fol. 88v. A
of wrist claps (Part Two, B, XXXI, la, pp. 3tß"8, above and rig.
of a native tradition.
reaching to the knee, worn between the outer robe and the inner,
discussed below (p. 4e1 ). (The inner sleeves may be seen clearly
a mythological figure. )
xxiv).. The long gowns often have marked hems. Bands of decora-
tion occur on some skirts, but it is. not clear whether the
(fol. 16
University Library MS Ff. 1.23 88v) at each thigh and
reveal that garters are wound round and tied at the ankles. It
ings which were bound to the leg, in addition to. the layers of
are also worn by men. They are usually painted black. (Plates
-style. '
476"
The jewellery which formed so characteristic a part of
women's costume in the pagan period rarely appears in the
illustrations of the late Saxon era, though Christian period
archaeological finds and literary evidence imply that such
drapery suggests that the woman's gown was girdled, but there
girdle.
2. Male costume
life appears to have been the girdled tunic, usually worn Short
enoucgh to reveal the knee. Such tunics are represented c: zr]. iest
and Jonathan initial. (The other figure wears a longer garr, ýent. )20
the side or back of the tunic may indicate the position of the
there is a small slit at the front of the head opening, and the
neck and this slit are bordered by a band which forms a V-shape
Arundel 155 (fol. 93) and Cotton Tiberius Cvi (Plate )xxiV)
ending in tags, with which the front slit was laced or drawn
in (fol. 21
East" BM MS Cotton Vespasian Axv 101), wears an
attached.
usual tunic in such a way as to leave the logs free and the
thighs exposed-'at the sides. Men dressed in this way are almost
always barefoot and barefoot men almost always wear this costume
(Plates XVII, upper group, C IX, centre). Some illustrations
which is drawn with a double outline, ' suggesting that the front
at the sides and fastened by the girdle, so that the thighs are
man sowing seed wears such a tunic, while his two companions
wear the more usual tunic and shoes. Like a man similarly
pouch formed by the front of the skirt to hold the seed which
he sows. Men viewed from the rear in BM MS"Harley 603 (Plates
XIII, top left, XIV), wear tunics similarly arranged, which can
tunic, and revealed when the outer tunic was removed for labour;
variation.
be 26
slit tunic to a "badge of slavery or servitude". This is
the fact that men who wear such tunics are without shoes, but
and the fact that the garment of the biblical Joseph, known to
has a decorated band round the hem of the tunic, which forms an
below. )
and the ones worn by men in the Tapestry, have smooth, close-
481.
the wrist to confine a sleeve which was longer than the arm and
the band marks the extent of the short sleeve of an outer tunic,
482.
in (fol. 35
constellation Orion BM MS Harley 2506 41). One. of
to the elbow, while the pleated sleeves which stretch from elbow
belong to an undergarment.
deliberate pleating.
483.
lv).
encased in shoes with decorated front strips, and the lower legs
view that the royal costume consisted of a short upper gown and
(fol. 42
BM MS Cotton Tiberius By 39) and Harold, depicted
cases the cloak might fall only to the level of the waist at
17v). The latter uses the front of his cloak as a container for
length as the tunic (Plates XIX, XX, X-: II, XXVIII, XXIX, Mall).
Cotton Tiberius Cvi (fol. 8). There, a cloak has been thrown
while the neckband of his tunic is visible lower down the shoulder
(Plate xxVill).
with the surplus material of his cloak turned back, its upper
to 46 battle47
'visit Normandy, by one Englishman during the and
603, wore long trousers, but, 'as in a similar case in the Tapestry,
the rider might equally well be wearing, and sitting on, a skirt.
which extend to the ankles, the feet being bare. All three wear
and coloured differently from the bare hands and faces (Plate
XXVIII). Yet the leg coverings must have been very close-fitting
as the limbs retain their natural shape. They are not so loose
93). )
489"
603 (fol. 72v) wears garters of which the top two strands cross.
stockings) may wear leg coverings which are wound round the leg
an elaborate knot, the ends of which dangle and are finished off
MS Harley 603 (fol. lv) appears without shoes, but. his feet,
strips.
leg coverings were "rather full, and wrinkled in. much the same
54
way as the sleeves, but on a lesser scale". In some illustra-
490"
tion of the "wrinkled" leg covering, which could support the view
the baggy coverings worn round the calf. Decorated bands mark
are the usual footwear for mono as for women. Occasionally there
are more elaborate shoes.: The footwear of King David, for example,
491"
the shoes are decorated at the side and toe, and appear associated
56
with elaborate cross-gartering. The shoes worn by David in
may simply have filled the blank space on the shoe with decora-
the shoes worn by King Cnut in the Stowe MS drawing (Plate XXVI),
pointed hats.
I3en are depicted with short hair, and are more often clean-
by their moustaches.
3. Children's costume
B. 1 MS Stowe 944 (fols. 6v-7) wears a long, sleeved gown, but the
4. Surtnary
been worn over a scarf or cap, covering the long hair. The
hood and outer robe, and the square veil a feature of royal
ladies' costumes. Ornament appears to have consisted of embroi-
.
dered bands at the wrist, hem or skirt of the garment, or as a
adjuncts.
period. The similarity between the hood and outer garment worn
with slit sides for physical activities. The tunic may have had
were rarer. A cloak could be worn over the tunic. This might
but this fashion is depicted rarely, once early and once late
and hoods, but older male children, like men, could wear either
long or short garments.
i"
I
495"
ScULPTURE
C.
1. Female costume
which may have ornamented the cloak. This feature is not found
crucifixion scene on the same cross4 (Plate : cß: Vi) and a female
brooch", and the hair "appears to fit the head closely as. though
style.
2. Male 'Costume
depict male figures in tunics and other garments which are shown
arm, and tight-fitting folds cover the lower arm and wrist.
upper
it may be that the sleeves of the tunic are short and loose, and
is no clear demarcation line between the two, and the whole area
497"
where cloaks swing loose, outside the girdles. The shoes, cut
low over the instep, but with projections up the backs of the.
heels, and possible side seams (shown on the outer side of the
by Kendrick 19
left hand, interpreted as a musical instrument,
century, figure from Jarrow, Du. The figure stands amidst vine
figure.
498.
Several surviving sculptures bear figures of archers.
These may ref lect. the Northern legends of Egil, or, as Raw has
24
argued, may have some Christian significance. The costume
a girdled tunic which falls well below the knee. The second
that the figures wear the voluminous lay habit, shorter than
pended, and from the girdle of the right, a dagger. The left-
499"
hand figure wears a hood secured by a round brooch at the right
are longer-at the sides than in the middle, having curving hems,
line. There is a patterned border round the hem and up the sides
Christian 41
trating subjects on two crosses at Sandbach, Chesh,
49
on a tenth-century cross shaft from Ovingham, Nb, and since
Junior, York (p. &r98 above) also carries a horn (Fig. 16).
,
The longer tunic may not have been exclusively worn for the
dato 52
stone of similar from Sherburn, I. Probably the most
these may also. (The St. Peter and Christ figures on the'
which are noticeably short in the skirt and leave the upper part
54
of the body naked. Possibly loin cloths are intended. The
the same shaft may wear anklets, or other ornaments round the
leg, which show below the hem of the long tunic. A crudely-
6Ö (Plate
carved angel on a. Viking Age sculpture at Slaidburn, y,
at the front and back of the foot', rather than at either side
504.
helmets, and each has a belt or girdle knotted at the left side
headgear suggests that the figures are clothed;, the girdles may
the Gosforth, cumb, cross (Plate XXXVI) though one lacks a tunic.
64
The central boss of a Viking Age cross shaft from Bilton, y,
On the shaft of the same cross are two figures, mentioned above
the chest and an ornament on the top of the head, however, would
the absence of the tunic may have been a sign of. captivity,
tions of cloaks.
and Harley 603 (fols. 13v, 56v), therefore the assumption that
Conical hats are worn by the Ingleby, Db, figure, and the archer
from under the chin almost to the waist. The figure also wears
above).
3. Summax-y
The depictions of men confirm that the normal garb was the
work, the full-length gown, the shorter tunic or loin cloth and.
in Anglo-Saxon drawings.
BD4 MS Cotton Claudius Biv. and less common styles. The articles
',,
. group of three female figures, perhaps Valkyries, and
M) and the head and shoulders of Fgil's wife are visible inside
male figures on the Casket. The women's skirts cover the knees
this group are shown in profile, revealing that the hoods are
pointed at the back. These two, though not the third, may wear
bands across the foreheads, below the hoods. The hoods of the
not pointed.
face. Their heads are covered by hoods which are clearly attached
to their cloaks, and which do not pass under the chin as tiýir 103
't
would have done. Similar hoods appear on a Pictish sculpture,
and between the arm and body. Under the cloak the arm is covered
to later artists.
I
end of the garment encircles the neck, falling onto the shoulder.
wears a garment similarly wrapped round the head, but more volu-
over a veil which does not pass under the chin, reminiscent of
the veil suspended over the head of Cnut's queen in the Stowe
guishable by the fact that men have short hair and women long
hair worn down their backs. This supports the evidence of the
long.
2, Nilo co ntume
waist, and below the waist, skirts. Only one figure (one of
the armed men attacking Egil in the scene on the top of the
over the belt. Two of the male figures have bands at the wrist,
Romulus and Remus scene on the left side of the Casket (Plate
like the sleeve of the woman in the Wayland scene, and resembl-
of the third king and the armed man are- depicted by a larger
.
number of parallel lines bearing some resemblance to the parallel
separate legs of the armed warrior unite just below the skirt,
of other male figures are narrow, some being marked with hori-
one man covers his face with his cloak. In this panel brooches
iconography.
3. Summary
The leg coverings of the men on the Casket supply a link between
of other art.
I
I
514"
E. I,T!,TAI,, -;OßY.
1. Male costume
pleat and fullness at the sides. The skirts reach to just above
the knee. The tunics of the upper pair, and of the left of the
revealing the inner side of the arm, down which a line runs.
left figure. )
by the arm of the
Possibly this, and some of the other figures on the brooch
four busts in roundels which form part of the border to the brooch
resembling a loin cloth. The artist may have intended the upper
the figure on the Alfred. Jewel (Plate =I). The yellow line
which outlines this garment crosses the waist of the figure, and
found in Kent (at Lyminge; Part Two, B, XIII, 16, p. 148, above).
The shoes of the upper pair and the left of the lower have side-
0
2. Summary
and the Vespasian Psalter for the wearing of the tunic between
pendant may show trousers, the Abingdon and Breach Downs figures
seamed shoes of the Fuller Brooch and the shoes with heel pro-
jections on the Abingdon sword resemble archaeological finds,
/
PART FOUR: LITERARY AND LINGUISTIC EVIDENCE
517.
A. INTRODUCTION: SOURCES AND ORGANIZATION
1. Literary evidence
developments:
2. Linguistic evidence
and upon which part of the body they were worn. (In the
the Latin 33
manuscripts of works of Aldhelm, the majority
is 35
principles the Corpus glossary, an eighth-century word-
3. Organization
countries.
in C, of garment terns are listed and discussed. The
is a discussion.
Each section begins with an alphabetical list of the terms
glossing more than one Latin word, and the Latin terms may
may contain words which were only borrowed into the English
as evidence.
only note that terms which are attested only from glossaries,
reserve.
and 3.
/
525"
B. LITERARY EVIDENCE
were worn:
_
Atque in eam se consuetudinam adduxerunt,
ut locis f rigidissimus nectue vestitus praeter
Pelles haberent ctuictuam, quarum propter
exic7uitatem magna est corpores pars aperta,
et lavarentur in fluminibus. 1
(both )
in fluminibus
sexes, perluuntur et
pellibus auf parvis rhenonum tegimentis
utuntur magna corporis Parte nuda.
and shoulders:
526.
furs were worn during the pagan era, this seems probable
in the light of earlier and later evidence. The apparent
importance of the cloak corresponds to the evidence of
noted that the Franks also wore their hair in this way,
heads shaved).
the latter:
amictus)11
529.
2. William of Malmesbury
laneis 17
sed solum vestimenti uti volaverit.
The penitential associations of wool are further
tarian item. )
remains are more common than linen, which may reflect the
.4
532"
23
massehakele pe is on Pauie bouhte.
to Rome in A. D. 1027.25
which may have been fur. The item was identified-as ' hyre
39
twilibrocenan cyrtel', tentatively translated by Whitelock
40 (Discussed
as "her double badger-skin gown". in C, III,
Dei, habitu 50
servis ut pompato vel sago vel armis utantur.
536"
in A. D. 747:
life:
The striped, silken sleeves, furs and curling hair are not
ý
538"
by excessive worldliness. )
provoked
been pagans.
custom 60 is
by Tacitus as a of the Germanic peoples. it
to Sidonius.
6. Summary
sleeves and curled hair which could not be inferred from other
sources.
The cloak appears to have been the oldest-established
C. LINGUISTIC EVIDENCE'
Materials
1. Wool
'WULL', BTD "wool" (the modern word derives from the OE),
loom.
vellera nimbus), and Meritt that ' f]. aep' was a scribal error
for ' fmlp' 13
, glossing ningit,
2. Linen
the A]fredian Bede by: ' heo nmfre linenum hrwglum brucan
22
wolde, ac wyllenum'.
24
where a rich man is said to be: 'gescrydd mid... twine'.
The term here translates b sso, Iflax, linen], and since the
3. Silk
of a silken garment with ' godweb' :' Gyf man mute pmt he seoluc
33 'gegyrla'
oÖÖa godweb ha bbe... ' and by the choice of as
L silk] 35
below)... 'Sidan' renders sericum the adjectives
,
'siden' (in the form 'sinden') and 'seolcen' appear glossing
36 Lailk
homhicinum, 'cal-seolcen' glosses olosoricum37
outer garments
and indeed, of the same type, may also have been worn by seculars.
use.
548"
'HACELE', BTD "a cloak, mantle, upper garment, cassock",
for the prefixes suggests that 'hacele' did not always have
bellici18 [paludamentum
paludamentum: genus vestimenti military
the 'sciccels' when the latter was worn reaching to the feet.
'gerefa' in 28
and of the the story of St. Margaret. In the
is 29
penitential garment and worn by a woman.
'hakel' appears in the Middle English poem Sir Gawain and the
for 40 but
removed singing mass and for gospel readings, the
'hoppada', 'ufrescrud'. 41
uel uel 'Pad' is a well-documented
'slop' and 'slype' alone are not documented from the OE period
worn by a cleric.
and Rushworth texts of the Gospels, where the west Saxon versions
have ' gegyrla' and with the addition of ' oferslop' in Lindisfarne
,
at Luke 20,46.59 This latter case might represent the coup-
under 'ufer' with the definition "an upper garment". The word
3. Cloaks or blankets/curtains
items 67
among of bedding in MS Julius Aii. Literary texts
white.
the words' ranges of function stemmed from the fact that the
his 82
o6 erne mt swum wife. " . under anre reon'
shaggy, hairy", and that the object was named from its shaggy
or rough texture.
veiling or curtaining.
West Saxon versions have 'wwf els' and the Northumbrian 'hragl'
(for 94
'hmcla' 'hacele') ± 'bratt'. The Northumbrian and
Mercian versions use 'ryfte' where the West Saxon have 'scyccelse95
6
It appears, therefore, that ' bratt' hacele' hraegel' , 'rift'
,' ,'
'sciccels' and 'wfels' had some semantic overlap.
4. Fur garments
The 'CRUSENE', BTD "a robe made of skins", may have had
prove that the word ' fel' came to be used of a particular garment.
by the lemma. ]
that the glossators understood something else
in the Junius/BM Vertiurn Nomina group: ' 'stiöe and ruge breost-
6
122
rocces', and this does not, in view of the meaning of reno
loose term which was often used of a fur or skin garment, but
below (Section III, 3, pp. 662 -9). The maj ority of documented
is [sandalium
obviously an error slipper, sandal], perhaps
[garment] and refers to the apparel of. King Saul, from which
129
David cuts 'mnne ].mppan'.
130
'MENTEL' is also found glossing the ambiguous colobiu
"
and is therefore discussed below (Section III, 3, pp. 568 -`f) .
The word translates chlamys in the Pastoral Care131 fulfilling
(.30).
6. Other terns
from Celtic, it is the only garment term among the known words
for
nadde they but a sheete,
...
Which that they myghte wrappe hem inne a-nyte,
And a brat to walken inne by. daylyght,
They wolde hem selle... 149
The word also survived in Welsh, where it came to mean "a rag"
"mantle" 150
and in Gaelic, where the meaning persisted. The
a humble garment.
used of a fur garment, since, linked with ' hedene' and ' scicelse'
15 6
'basincge' glosses melote.
564.
'F-:RYCG-HRRGEL', BTD "a dorsal, mantle", occurs in two
a garment.
'OFER-LAG', BTD "a cloak", (CHM 'oferlagu', )'is deduced
the 'Anglian versions of the Gospel also use other terms: ' hrmgl'
,
176
' hwcla' and 'bratt' in Lindisfarne, ' hryft' in Rushworth.
' Waefels' then, might signify various types of covering, but the
Body garments
extend to cover the legs, but if. so, in the form of a skirt
for the shoulder's, cape]. ' Sculdor-hrae. gl' BTD "a garment
,
to cover the shoulders", occurs in a list of vestments in the
under the heading Vestium Nomina: renones ' sti6 a and ruge
below) .
3. Shirts or cloaks
Latin words meaning "cloak", but they also gloss words meaning
"shirt" and are associated with OE words which clearly belong
bium La from
col short-sleeved undergarment; the eighth
glosses are different, two being from Aldhelrn, the other from
one cannot deny the possibility that the collocation may have
As already demonstrated (Section II, 5, pp. 5GOb9) lo6a' and ' mentel'
,'
tions, but the most that can be deduced from the colobium glosses
is that the 'lo6a' and ' mentel' shared with the ' hom' and ' smoc'
sleevelessness.
6
4. Shirts
the skin]. The OE word derived from Latin camisia. Its form
570"
' cemes' and ' tunece' were different garments which could be
of hire huse, 7 full oft butan his kemese 7 eac gelomlice butan
17
his tunecan he eft on hire huse cyrde'. There is no textual
18
camisia.
'SCYRTE', BTD "short garment, skirt, kirtle", is found in
languages, 20
in Germanic and is possibly related to, the OE
that the 'sherte' was distinct from the 'curtle', and that the
former was worn next to the skin, while'the latter was an over-
' SERC' , BrfD "a shirt, shift, smock, tunic, sark", glosses
The use of the word in the Benedictine Rule shows that the
been stated that the Christian does not wear 'flm sclice f=tewunga'.
572"
The word 'serc' was obviously well-established in the
Saxon poet, for example, from Beowulf ' beadu-, 'here-; 'hioro-,
'leopo' 34
and'lic-serc' .
'HAM', BTD "a covering, garment, shirt", also appears in
the 45
glossed version of Regularis Concordia. It is mentioned
may have been also worn by seculars: ' Gyf Du hemepe habban
573"
46
wille, ponne nim pu slyfan pe on hand and wege hi' . The
definition of colobium.
linked to ' hemepe' 'horn', ' looa' mentel' and ' serc' Cognates
, ,' .
include Icelandic smokkr, "a blouse", and Middle High German
49
smacken, "to adorn". The term is documented in later English
5. Tunics
group.
a garment].
" 'TUNECE', BTD "a tunic, coat", derives from Latin tunica,
dressed 63
"provided with a tunic, in a tunic') glosses togatos.
hyre blacena tuneca swa per hyre leofre beo 7 hyre betso
64
haliryft'. The association with a holy veil, and the fact
that the dark tunic and holy veil were Wynflmd's costume when
she attended church. She owned more than one 'tunece', since
66
she also bequeaths 'hyre betstan dunnan tunecan'.
' wmfels' and similar in some respects to the ' cyrtel' and ' syrc'
,
like the latter functioning as a nightshirt in monastic commu-
'oferb=dels', 70
conjunction with glossing palla. The entry
576"
than the 'cyrtel', but of similar cut. The will indicates that
and about the correct reading of one of them. Wynf ].tad bequeaths
72
'hyre twilibrocenan cyrtel' and 'hyre cincdag enan cyrtel'.
"her (? ) kirtle", 73
the former phrase double badger-skin
'brocen cyrtel', "a coat which has been worn" deriving the
which show that a garment of this name was worn by both sexes,
clothed in a caurymaury...
In kirtel and kourteby. 82
is by females 83
the garment worn and seems to be a petticoat.
6. A wrapper
'WEALCA' is included here as a "Body garment" since it was
not appear to have been a cloak. , The term is found in )Elf ric's
which are thrown off. BTD defines 'wealca' "a garment that may
/
5aO" -
IV
Loin and leg coverings
B=cce Meo
Braccas Nostle
Brec-hLä3gl Sceanc-bend
Broc, brec Sceanc-gegirela
Cbles Socc
Gyrdels Strapul
Hosa Underwrzedel
Hose-bend irJxd-b rmc
Leperhose Wining
1. Loin cloths
the glosses. The glossator may, however, only have been attempt-
2, Trousers
"breek, 12
"breeches" and Scottish breeks". Originally the
garment of this name was worn by men, but the use of the word
('pe 15
women, if only as penitential clothing brech of here').
drawers or tights".
The compound ' BREC-HRGL' should perhaps be included, here.
.
BTD' s definition is non-committal: "a sort of garment". CHM,
ted that the word meant "a kind of braces for nether garments"
leg and were fastened by laces: '... bey were liche to mares
'strapul' covered the whole leg, and was fastened with laces,
Conquest.
584"
for the leg, hose", appears to have had the semantic range of
suggests, though, that the word was in use, before the conversion,
and may have been the name of a secular garment first. The
does not indicate whether or not the foot was also covered:
tibiales in 33
leg, gaiter", glosses ocreae uel Junius/BM.
in Alfrie's Collocruy. 35
since 'leperhosa' glosses caligas
of the 'sceowyrhta'.
36
'MEO', BTD "a shoe or sock covering the foot", overlaps
'soccas and hosan'. This suggests that both 'hosa' and 'soccas'
and the quotation from the Rule shows that, in that context at
word for word, but the continuous text translator used a freer
('soccus') [caliqula,
pedules as discussed, glosses callicula
(ultimately 44
a Latin loan into continental Germanic Greek),
sokkr, "a sock", and Old High German soc which glosses soccus,
45 The
caliga and calicula. cognates and the meaning of modern
which was put on easily, but do not prove that the garment
(pediles, 46
' cmlise') The term derives from Vulgar Latin
.
4. Garters
' SCEANC"BEND' , BTD "a band for the leg, a garter", also
"(
588"
confirms that the 'winingas' were worn on the lower leg: 'Ronne
leg bandage]. Leg bands may have been worn round the leggings
Shoes
Calc Rifeling
Crinc Scoh, gesceo, gescy
Fotgemde Slife-scoh, slipe-scoh
Hemming Stmppe- scoh
Lces-hosum Swiftlere
lost
also be explained.
and LY,ibke, who had showed, however, that the OE gloss was
4
simply a rendering of Isidor's definition. It is unlikely
BTD are, similarly, not the names of known types of shoes, but
baxeae Ibaxea,
of shoe for women in England. The phrase glosses
from it: Talares calcei socci sunt, aui inde nominati videntur
9
guod ea fiqura sint ut contingant talum.
2. General erms
('scoh'), 18 ('gescy'), 19
renders calcarium calceos call a
20 Lshoe, ('sco')21 Igalicula,
('scoh'), fico clog] and qal_ liculae
] ('scos'). 22
a garment; perhaps confused with caligula?
3. Slippers
spelling for the sound /v/, and that this sound was commonly
in OE by (f>. between vowels. BTD also lists, indi-
represented
from the
entry in the Cleopatra A-order glossary: soccus
27
'slypescos'. BTD's deduction of the existence of 'slife-scoh'
and perhaps with some resemblance to ' cmles' hos5t' and ' meo' ,
discussed above, IV, 3,13p. 584"O, was in shape a bag-like article,
(f icones). 32
where it is distinguished from 'sceos' Although
were required suggests that they were worn low on the foot and
did not cover the leg: 'Gyf pu swyftleras habban wylle, Donne
'HEMMING', BTD "a kind of shoe", BTS "a boot made of raw
is 35
glossary there the entry: Pero 'hemming' i. 'ruh sco'.
was written in the eleventh century. The word was not obsolete,
however, since it occurs in a fifteenth-century Scottish poem
in a context associating it with 'rewelynys' (discussed below
as ' rifeling' )s
the 43
untanned skins of ox and seal, which are called. 'rivilins'".
the present day in the Shetland Isles. *as a name for "cowskin
44
moccasins". The word is related to Old Norse hriflingr, "an
for 45
ancient general term a hide shoe", and possibly to the
toe of the shoe. The shoes were normally sewn together at the
being 49
sides and the back, there no separate sole. The hairy
it is likely that the Anglo-Saxon raw hide shoes were also worn
by country people. Lindsay cites no,: source for the lemma pero
5. Other sandals
' rivelen' suggests the similar shape of ' rif elingas' above).
,
Finally 'CALC', BTD "a shoe, little shoe, sandal", may
('calken' 56
Saxon versions of the Gospels in the latest version).
The word occurs in a passage where Christ orders the disciples
'gesceode mid calcum'. The word wäs borrowed from Latin calceus
VI
Headgear
garments worn on the head, and pins for securing the hair or
Bande Healsed
Bende Hod
Binde Hufe
Cppe Orel
Cappa Scyf el
Cuff ie Snod
F eax-clap Dwmle
Feax-net Wimpel
Hit Wand
Heafod-clap Wrigels
Heafod-gewmde
Cb3f
Feax-preon
Hai r-nom dl
.° Drawing-spinel
Up-legen
1. tidrapper
2. Headdress or grave-clothes
and "the cloth used for wrapping the head of a dead person" by
2
in OE of a cloth wrapped around the head of a corpse. In the
which may have signified something on which the head was laid
term was used of a head garment, and that this was considered
MS. 8c
9
is related to the OE verb Iwreon*, "to cover", the substan-
been used with the meaning "cap". ' It is not clear whether or
from the thirteenth century with the meaning "hood"]. The word
is 18
and antecedent to modern English "hood". The word derived
La helmet]. 19
from Latin cassis It glosses capitium in the
in the Cleopatra 22
glossary MS. The garment of this name was
b. Veils
religious life.
of-the-body plus general garment term, the word may have func-
headdress; twelfth-century, ]-
priest's; maforte mafora veil.
in homiletic 44
and context, There is no evidence from OE
that the garment of this name was worn by seculars, but the use
603.
c. 'Hufe'
4. Fillets
They may have been used of bands for the head, but some, at
the position in which the article was worn, but also shows that
for the head, there occur the entries: diadema 'bend agimmed
51 LDiadema
and gesmiöed' and nimbus 'mid goldegesiwud bend'
. .
uitta La band,
a cap for the head] in Junius/BM, once among
56
other clothing terms and once among terms relating to head-
57 58
gear. 'Snoda' also glosses vittarum in an Aldhelm MS.
like in [anne
a piece of string an OE homily: 'heo... becnytte
62
wmrnmgl] to anum hringe mid hire snode'.
S. General term
'H9T1, BTD "a hat, covering for the head", is not documen-
a bandage. ]
608.
Icelandic hufa, "a hood, cap, bonnet", and German haube, "a
99
bonnet, 'cap", and including Greek and Indian terms signifying
100
"hump-backed". It is possible that the OE 'hufe. 1 took its
name from a humped shape. The name cannot have derived from
projection which shaded the face and that- the garment of this
("pleated"), 119
and a garment of this name is worn by some
7. Pins
Hair 'pins or hat pins must have been necessary to keep some
veils and hats in position. 'CIEFING', BTD "an ornament for the
/
612.
VII
Accessories
2. Belts
uel 'belt'
.9
The meanings of some terms appear to include "purse" as
from the girdle. Thus 'FETELS', BTD "a little vessel, bag",
"ribbon".
uel ' agimmed gerdel' t zona, uel zonarium, uel brachile, uel
p
614.
14 L
redimiculum ' gyrdel' ; zona ' gyrdel' clauus purple stripe on
worn by seculars.
was worn round the hips and loins, rather than the waist. A
be used of the more substantial sword belt, and that it was not
3. Hand coverincts
lof a and Old Norse lof e, "palm the hand" 23 The term is
of .
615.
documented from the eighth century, occurring in the Corpus
the -possibly
word appears opposite mantum26 a glossator's
cam scos 27
gewitnesse; earnian mid 7 glofa him sylfum'. The
signified such a sleeve, but the contexts in which ' glof' appears
body suggests that the 'slif' did not cover the hand: 'Eghwelcere
arm. 'Stoc' is cognate with OE stuka "a sleeve" and with Old
44
High German stucha which glosses manica. The OE term glosses
/
619.
VIII
General terms
.
(clothing] 2
glosses vestitus in Juniuc/BM. 'Hz gel' translates
' hrmgl' and pallium is glossed ' hr gl' 4' li cla' -' bratt'
.
'Hraagel' frequently functions as head in noun phrases
glossing Latin phrases, for example in Junius/'BM in a group of
620.
9
Isidor glosses beginning segmentata uestis 'germwen hra3gel'.
the is 15
word used of the clothing of a male retainer of Holofernes.
CLAD ', BTD 11 "a garment" and ' CL1ES'
, BTD "clothes",
the Julius glossary21 and in the group under the heading Vestium
Nomina in Junius/BM it renders cultus22 [appearance,
clothing,
especially splendid dress].. As 'linenum reafe', translating
621.
byssina in Genesis, 23 is
stoles the term applied to a luxurious
' preostreaf' 25
often of ecclesiastical vestments, such as ' Reaf'
.
26
meaning "garment" survived into Middle English.
times used of the clothing of men, for example the garments given
by biblical Joseph his brothers. 44 is
the to The term only
synonymous: 'heo... wmscep his warig hrmgl and him sylep wide
51
niwe'. The use of the tern in the alliterating phrase 'wmpen
6t 6u age, 54
buton wiste and wmda' . Clearly the terms were
the early West Saxon version of the Gospels the clothing given
and Christ warns the people to beware of the scribes 'pa wyllaö
66
on ge-gyrlum gan'. In a sermon, Wulf star warns: 'God reafian
Irate dohtra heora gyrla to 67
eowere and oferrancra heafodgewnda'.
I
The terms are not only confined to elaborate garments,
however. In the Letter of Alexander to Aristotle the phrase
I
625"
'lyp orlico gerelan', a reference to coarse clothing60 occurs
standing; but the words could also be applied to poor and humble
Wulf Stan applies the word ' gyrla' to women's clothing and the
but the Benedictine Rule employs the term in a way which suggests
that it need not be applied only to the clothing of monks: each
monk is to have ' twa cugelan and twegen " syricas for padre nihtware''
The other occurrence is a reference to 'munuclice scrudware' in
626.
77
the La is of JJthelred. The combination with ' scrud' produces
2. Other terms
The word was used, however, of other articles which were not
the word is used of the purple robes of a bishop which are com-
pared those 85
with of a king, and of battle equipments 'mgper
term also occurs among the list `of duties of a man of the rank
'hntera' appears, suggest the 01ý word derived from the completely
The word is also associated with the: destitute when Elfric tells
92
of Jews dying of hunger: 'cuwon... heora ha3tera'. In the
of. the minimum clothing necessary for subsistence: 'I have but
96
one hatere'. In the Promntoriu locum 'Hatyr, rente cloth'
i3 translated scrutum, pannicia97 [scrota trash; panniculus
a rag; light, short garment]. Though. now obsolete, the word
in modern English until the 98
survived nineteenth century.
!I
628.
suggests that the 'sw pels' was originally a garment which was
5 -7 1 -- 9,6q `7 , above) .
Another Icelandic cognate, sveipg, signifies "kerchief, hood", AQ
IX
ClaMs
below:
Bul Mentel-preon
CnMp Of er-f eng
Dalc Preon
Fifele Sigle
Gyrdel-hring, gyrdels-hringe Spennels
clasp, pin] in Junius/BM, together with 'preon' and 'of erf eng'
.1
'Dolc, o66e preon' appears in a list of- jewellery in the Julius
'dale' as to fibula li 7
associated with gloss and ila. Glossing
10
and 'of erf eng' as gloss to sninther and fibula also occurs
("a 16
"preen" and Scottish "preyne" pin made of wire").
brooch or clasp.
BTD II, "a button, brooch", and of 'SPENNELS', BTD "a clasp".
spennill, "a clasp", suggests that the term may have been more
in the 31
the same lemmata related A-order glossary in Cleopatra.
632.
Y.
" is cus3ion
the body; that ' crinc' and ' rifeling' were shoes which were
and 'wrxd' were articles used for binding. Less specific examples
and later English terms suggest that the head coverings 'hufe'
and 'scyfel' were named from their shape, the former humped,
was named ' hwitel' and leg or footwear made from a particular
'ufre scrud', take their names from the positions in which they
deduce from the form of some modern' clothing terms (for example
3. Frectuencv of occurrence
may, have been more obscure. Many of the listed terns hapax
are
635. I
4. Dialect
for certain terms which may have been regional, but might have
preference for ' cyrtel' 'rift', 'stole' and ' wmd' over other
,
Sa;; on text. ' Gyrdels broec' and ' slebe_zcoh' occur in these
very similar ' gyrdol o86 c brec' and ' slypeccoc' thorotoro
,
these terms did not remain exclusively Anglian.
'hrm gl' was a general term, the others specific garment names;
that 'rift' shared some function with 'oral', "a veil", though
the common element may have been no more than that women wore
both garments; and that 'hacele', 'mental' and 'lo6a' may have
Body garments.
group and ' cemes' group may have been the reason for this collo-
that the 'tunece' was similar to the 'syrce' but distinct from
different textures.
word, are apparent synonyms. ' Qi les' 'hoses', 'moo' and 'socc',
,
Though similar, 'hosa' and 'meo' were not identical, nor were
'Orel' and ' wimpel' appear to have some relationship, and 'rift'
'brec', grouped, 'on other evidence,, 'with Loin and leg coverings.
The fact that words meaning "girdle" may also mean "purse",
have existed.
639.
hence: 'gegerela' equals ' loöa' ;' hrtegl' equals ' cyrtel'
,
' bratt' and ' hoecla' , 'clap' includes -' tunece' .
Some degree of semantic overlap between the names of Clasps
as to ' mene' ; and 'sigle' to ' cna3p', 'f if ele'-, ' hringe' and
,
spennels' .
,'
The relationship between some of these groups may have been
minimal. The link between some of the terms in the final section,
for example, may have been no more than that as various types
suggests that there was a greater variety than the simple rectangles
Charlemagne.
I
"1
641"
also suggests or confirms the existence of garments which are
archaeology.
and the general terms ' gegerela' hrmgl' and ' reaf'
,' were
i
642.
Ages.
stration. 6
/
PART FIVE: OONCLUSIONS
643"
P? FIVE: CONCLUSIONS
between the garments of the sexes in Germania, and the fact that
the clothing of both men and women, there are obvious differences
between the costumes of the two sexes at all stages of the Anglo-
may sometimes have been used to attach the gown to the brooches.
blouse may have opened down the front, where it could be clasped
Anglian areas the cuffs were often secured by metal clasps. The
knots may have been used. Various articles hung from the belt
most often worn as festoons near the neck, but also worn at
head, arms and girdle. Metal arm and finger rings were normally
have worn a robe which fastened down the front, though at one
popular during the pagan period. Women's belts may have become
some areas women may have ceased to wear buckles. In Kent the
stockings, or garters.
of the "dress hooks" and strap ends which have been recovered in
Scandinavian art. The bared head for women was alien to Christian
647"
onwards.
The robe was girdled, but by a soft sash rather than a rigid
that men did not normally wear brooches and that if and when
They were sometimes buckled, though the buckle was not essential
even for an elaborate belt, and for one which had to carry the
this way, though the variety and number of such girdle adjuncts
cloak which was worn over the other garments was probably a
coarser fabric than the tunic. The cloak may have taken the
burials at Taplow, Bu and Sutton Hoo, Sf, are rare and perhaps
military.
times.
both in the baggy trousers depicted in Roman art and the close-
a terminus ad quem for the former and a terminus a auo for the
and the Frankish buckled shoes evidenced from Kent. This variety
Men continued to wear short cloaks with tunics for the remainder
it by a penannular brooch.
and without cloaks, might wear the tunic tucked up, or could
wear a garment similar to the tunic which was slit up the sides
of the skirt. The tunic was girdled, but apparently not buckled.
the by it
confined at waist a sash. may have been confined to
centre of the chest rather than at one shoulder. The gown may
have been worn over trousers, probably of the same type as worn
under the tunic. The long garment did not replace the short
costumes.
robes and hooded cloaks for women and tighter trousers for men.
The fact that the same basic costume was worn by women settlers
4
in most areas of England attests the common cultural background
The new Viking settlers may have brought with them their
native dress, and garments adopted from elsewhere; but the rest
This work began with the statement that costume study provides
a personal link with the past. It has offered a number of insights
into the life and thought of the Anglo-Saxon people. For example,
the colourful nature of their dress is constantly apparent: in
pagan times with, rare cases of dyed fabric and common examples
conf irm it. The worldly nuns described by Aldhelm have a vita-
ing the fine and colourful fabrics acquired for holier purposes.
who carried seed in his skirts; the care with which the corpse
too young to use; the pagan beliefs and the discipline which
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T,i ;t of o., merit terns and related -wmrd conr; idercd in Part
Four, C, and the subüections under which the? are
býmde VI r, Bt VI
basing II h-utcra VIII
beazm-claý III ham III
bearm-r,, III hand- ncio VII
belt VII hcafod-clap VI
bende VI hcafod-gew,, ade VI
binde VI healoed VI
brocce IV hed-clay II
braccas IV heden II
bratt II hernepe III
brec-hr, egl IV hemming V
breoot-lin III hod VI
brcost-rocc III hop-pada II
broc, brec IV hosa IV
bul I
.u hose-bend IV
c2fing VI hrwgel, hrmglung VIII
aales IV hre6a II
c>;ýýpe VI hrycg-hrmgel II
calc V hufe VI
cappa VI hwitel II
casul II lms-hosum V
ceraes III ].mst V
clap, clapes VIII leperhose IV
cnon IY. l in I
crinc V linen I
crusene II lo$a II, III
cuffie VI II, III
mentel
cyrtel III IX
mental-preon
da lc I::
moo IV
eaxl-clap III IV, VI
nostle
f ca}, clap VI IX
ofer-feng
feax-net VI
ofer-haeele II
feax-preon VI II
ofer-lag
fel II II
ofer-Clop
fet"el, fetel3 VII II
ofer-slype
fifele I:; VI
orel
f1. wp I pad II
fleax I II
pilece
flis, flys I IX ..ý.
preon
fotgewxde V VIII
reaf
frence 11 reowe II
(gei gerela VIII V
rifeling
gerif VIII rift II, VI
ge-scirpla VIII rocc II
g1Qf VII sal VII
godweb VIII sceanc-bond IV
godweb-cynn II sceanc-gec! ir©la IV
gyrdel VII sceorp VIII
,fyrdel-hring, gyrdel3-hringe IX sciccels II
gyrdels IV, VII II
sciccing
hacelc II, III gesceo, gescy V
scoh,
hwr-nadl VI scrud VIII
IN
719.
cculdor-1.1rxgl III
ccyicl VI
3cyrtc III
ccoluc I
ccrc III
side I
sigle IY.
slife-scoh, slipe-scoh V
Glop III
Slypc III
smoc ill
snod VI
socc IV
s-)ennelc IX
steppe-scoh V
stole II
strapul IV
swepels VIII
sweor-clap VII
swcor-sal VII
swcor-tcah VII
swiftlere V
tunece III
tw in I
prawing-spinel VI
c1-31e VI
ufrc scrud II
underserc III
underwrrdel IV
up-legen VI
(ge)wed VIII
wed-brec IV
vafels II
-ware VIII
wealca III, VI
wimpel VI
wining IV
wred VI
wrigels VI
wull I
720.
APPENDIX. 3
braccus as bracae
brachile girdle
calceamentum shoe
calsun as caiccus
cans a box
ca ssis helmet
chlamvs cloak
cintum belt
crebundic 7 as clinic
ciirtelli as ; kurtclla
cu r. Mus short
faccelles as fascia
gallicula garment
hzbitun dress
appearance,
humorale as umorale
indumentum garment
723"
labarum banner
lacerna cloak worn by Romans over the toga in cold or wet weather
lnna wool
lena mantle
liniamento garment
lorica mailcoat
mantellum cloak
odo as udo
pectica as pecten
pera as melote
perizomata girdle
bag, ^ ý--"
saccus sack, especially money bag
scrota trash
0
sninther bracelet
succinctorium apron
theristodctes as theristrum
vellu , fleece
ventrale belly-band
veste as vestimentum
ves_itu clothing