Northern India History

JAMMU & KASHMIR
DRASS
Location: 60-km west of Kargil, Ladakh Region, On the Road to Srinagar, J&K
Altitude: 3,300m
Significance: Second Coldest Towns in the World.
Main Attraction: Trekking
Situated at an altitude of 3,300m, 60-km west of Kargil on the road to Srinagar, Drass is a
small township lying in the center of the valley of the same name. It has become famous
as the second coldest inhabited place in the world by virtue of the intense cold that
descends upon the valley along with repeated snowfalls during winters. Winter
temperature is sometimes known to plummet to less than -40°.
But during summer season the tracts around Drass present a pleasant pastoral sight,
offering a complete contrast to the savage face worn by it during the winter months. In
this area the dialect spoken is named after the weather - "Hambabs" means snowfall.
The fields around Drass are cultivated for both cereals and cash crops. Drass has a
number of monasteries and a small bazaar. It is connected to other parts of Ladakh by
road.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Zoji La: The Drass valley starts from the base of the Zoji La
pass, the Himalayan gateway to Ladakh. For centuries its
inhabitants are known to have negotiated this formidable pass
even during the most risky period in the late autumn or early
spring, when the whole sector remains snow-bound and is subject
to frequent snow storms, to transport trader's merchandise across
and to help stranded travelers to traverse it.
By virtue of their mastery over the pass they had established a monopoly over the
carrying trade during the heydays of the Pan-Asian trade. A hardly people enduring with
fortitude and harshness of the valley's winter, the inhabitants of Drass can well be
described as the "Guardian's of Ladakh's Gateway".
Puga Valley: The Puga Valley is famous for its hot water springs. Every year hundreds of
visitors come to this valley for a bath in these springs as this is known to help people
suffering from rheumatism and skin diseases.
Trekking: Drass is a convenient base for a 3-day long trek to Suru valley across the sub-
range separating the two valleys. This trek passes through some of the most beautiful
upland villages and flower sprinkled meadows on both sides of the 4,500m high Umbala
pass, which falls enroute.
The trek to the holy cave of Amarnath in neighboring Kashmir, which stars from
Minamarg below Zoji La, takes 3 days and involves crossing of 5,200m high pass. Drass
also offers numerous shorter treks and hikes to the upland villages
HOW TO REACH THERE
Road: Buses plying between Srinagar and Kargil/Leh touch Drass. Local buses leave
Kargil in the morning and afternoon for Drass. Srinagar is well connected with rest of the
country via Air and Road through National Highway NH IA.
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WHERE TO STAY
The Tourist Complex here provides furnished rooms and suites. Advance reservation can
be done through the tourist office at Kargil or its branch at Drass. Some private hotels
also provide rooms equipped with basic necessities.
Note: All Tourists to Ladakh travelling from Srinagar by road are required to register
themselves at the Tourist Registration Center at Drass.
NEARBY CITIES
Kargil: 60-km
Srinagar: 147-km
GULMARG
Location: 56-km South West Of Srinagar, Kashmir Region, J&K
Main Attractions: Alpather Lake, Golf Courses & Skiing
Altitude: 2,730m
Best Time To Visit: In Summer - May To September
In winter - November to February
The Meadow Of Flowers: A huge cup shaped meadow, lush and green
with slopes where the silence is broken only by the tinkle of cowbells,
Gulmarg looks like a fantasy set in a film and not surprisingly have
been the venue of several films.
The valley of Gulmarg, a large meadow about 3-sq-kms in area, stands
at 2,730 metres, 56-km south west of Srinagar. The name means
'Meadow of Flowers' and in the spring it's just that, a rolling meadow dotted with
countless colorful Bluebells, Daisies, Forget Me Not's and Buttercups. The valley itself is
about 3-km long and up to a km wide.
Take a Hike! : All around are snow-capped mountains, and on a clear day one can see all
the way to Nanga Parbat is one direction and Srinagar is another. It's a popular day trip
from Srinagar to Gulmarg, although many people extend their stay or use it as a base for
trekking. The road from Srinagar rises gently towards the lower slopes of the range,
passing through rice and maize fields.
From Tangmarg, at the foot of the range, there are two paths to Gulmarg - a steep
footpath or a winding sealed road. There is also a pony track from Gulmarg that leads
upwards to Khilanmarg, Kongdori and seven springs.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Khilanmarg: This smaller valley is about a 6-km walk from the Gulmarg bus stop and
car park. The meadow, carpeted with flowers in the spring, is the site for Gulmarg's
winter ski runs and offers a fine view of the surrounding peaks and over the Kashmir
Valley. It's a 600-metre ascent from Gulmarg to Khilanmarg and during the early spring,
as the snowmelts, it can be a very muddy hour's climb up the hill. The effort is rewarded,
if it's clear, with a sweeping view of the great Himalayas from Nanga Parbat to the twin
7,100-metre peaks of Nun and Kun to the southeast.
Alpather Lake: Beyond Khilanmarg, 13-km from Gulmarg at the foot of the twin 4, 511
metre Apharwat peaks, this lake is frozen until mid-June and even later in the year one
can see lumps of ice floating in its cold waters. The walk from Gulmarg follows a well-
graded Pony track over the 3, 810 metre Apharwat ridge, separating it from Khilanmarg,
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and then up the valley to the lake at 3,843 metres. The more adventurous trekkers can
climb straight up the boulder-strewn slope of the ridge and descend the other side to the
path. For horse riding aficionados, Alpather Lake makes an exciting day's excursion,
starting early morning and returning late evening. Reservation Desk
The Ningli Nallah: Flowing from the melting snow and ice on Apharwat and the
Alpather Lake, this pretty mountain stream is 8-km from Gulmarg. The stream continues
down into the valley below and joins the Jhelum River near Sopur. This long, grassy
valley is a popular picnic spot and the walking path carries on, crossing the Ningli (also
spelt as Ningle) Nallah by a bridge and continues on to the Khilenmarg, another grassy
meadow and a good spot for camping. In early summer one will probably share the
campsites with Gujars moving their herds up to the high meadows.
Foreshore Nallah: Reached from the Tangmarg road, or from the Outer Circular Walk,
this mountain stream meets the Bahan River at a popular picnic spot known as 'waters
meet'. The stream is reputed to be particularly good for trout fishing; it's about five-km
down the valley from Gulmarg but quite close to Tangmarg. The river can be reached by
walking 3-km down the path from the gap near Tangmarg and then heading south through
the forest, down a slope towards the stream.
Near here there is a bridge which leas to the small waters meet picnic spot on the Right
Bank. Looking south from Tangmarg the river can be traced up to its source close to the
rugged peak known as Foreshore or Shinmahinyu. On the right bank the stream branches,
the left path leading to Tosa Maidan, while the right bends away towards the Gogaldara
road at a second bridge, about 32-km upstream, and then leads away to the Foreshore
pass, Poonch and Kantar Nag.
One can continue on from here to Tosa Maidan, a three-day, 50-km walk to one of
Kashmir's most beautiful Marg's, crossing the Basmai Gali pass at about 4,000 metres.
The track here is very close to the cease-fire line with Pakistan and on the right one will
pass the Jamainwali Gali, the pass at 4,000 metres is one of the easiest and safest routes
into the Punjab.
Shrine of Baba Reshi / Ziarat of Baba Reshi : This Muslim shrine is on the slopes
below Gulmarg and can be reached from either Gulmarg or Tangmarg. The Ziarat, or
tomb, is of a well-known Muslim saint who died here in 1480. Before renouncing
worldly ways he was a courtier of the Kashmir King Zain-ul-Abidin. Every year
thousands of devotees visit this shrine regardless of the faith they believe in.
Golf Courses: Gulmarg also has one of the world's highest green golf
courses, as well as a clubhouse, which is a historical building in its own
right. For the would-be golfer, there are golf sets on hire, pros to instruct
one in the game, and temporary memberships. Naturally, these facilities
are available to players as well, except that serious golfers usually carry
their sets along.
Gondola Lift: For a fun filled ride of a most unusual kind, Gulmarg's newly constructed
Gondola lift from high above Gulmarg, through pine clad slopes, is exhilarating.
Gulmarg Biosphere Reserve: For witnessing the glorious fauna of the great Himalayan
range, such as the Himalayan Musk Deer, Red Fox, Brown and Black Bear along with
numerous resident and migratory birds, visit the Gulmarg Biosphere Reserve. Located at
a height of 2,400m above sea level and with a coverage area of 180-sq-kms, this reserve
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is at a distance of 48-km from Srinagar. The best time to watch the wildlife is September
to March.
ADVENTURE SPORTS
SKIING: In winter, Gulmarg acquires a new persona - which of the
country's premier skiing resorts. Skiing, to many that watch it on TV,
seems like a very elitist sport, requiring a high level of training and
expensive equipment. They are surprised, when they visit Gulmarg for a
day's expedition to "see the snow", that others with the same level of physical fitness and
training are skiing down slopes. Gulmarg is the ultimate beginner's skiing resort. One
doesn't requite a heavy woolen wardrobe - slacks or a Salwar Kameez will do fine. In
Gulmarg one will also be able to drift to one of the many Ski shops and hire skis, sticks
and goggles. Just find yourself a ski instructor and set off down a slope.
Neither does one need to exert oneself climbing up slopes. The gentlest slope of 200m is
linked with a ski lift, which helps one to go up. When one graduates to intermediate level
- which will happen after the first few days of practice, there are other slopes, longer and
steeper, which are connected by chair lift. The longest ski run in Gulmarg is provided by
the Gondola cable car, which allows a ski run of 2,213m.
GULMARG WALKS
Outer Circular Walk: A circular road, 11-km in length, runs right round Gulmarg
through pleasant pine forests with excellent views over the Kashmir valley. Nanga Parbat
is clearly visible 137-km to the north, Haramukh 60-km to the east while to the south one
can see the Foreshore and Sunset Peaks and the Apharwat Ridge. Nanga Parbat, the 'lord
of the mountains', is the fourth highest peak on earth at 8,500 metres.
HOW TO GET THERE
Air: Gulmarg is in Baramula District and is 56-kms from Srinagar District. The nearest
Airport from here is situated in Badgam District, which is well connected with all the
major cities of the country.
Rail: The nearest railhead is at Jammu.
Road: The journey from Srinagar to Gulmarg takes approximately 2 hours in bus and
may take short time by chartered conveyance. The road to Gulmarg is very beautiful and
is lined with poplar trees all through. All sorts of transport are available to Gulmarg from
Srinagar bus stand at Batmallo and from private transport operators.
WHERE TO STAY
There are numerous hotels of various standards available for accommodation purpose in
Gulmarg, some of them being luxury, several being comfortable in addition to JKTDC's
winterized, fully furnished huts, which are great value for money. Assistance for booking
accommodation can be had from the booking manager at Tourist reception center in
Srinagar.
NEARBY CITIES
Srinagar: 56-km
JAMMU
Location: 305-km From Srinagar, J&K
Significance: The Second Largest Town in the State Of Jammu & Kashmir.
Language Spoken: Dogri, Hindi, English, Urdu, Kashmir & Punjabi.
Best Time To Visit: October to April
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A Legend: Jammu, the Duggar land where the past still has a living presence. A land of
grand ancient temples, and beautiful palaces, all nestling in the foothills of the
Himalayas. It is said that, on becoming King, the Suryavanshi Jambu Lochan went on a
hunt and, crossing the Tawi, found a deer and a tiger drinking water from the same tank.
His ministers explained that this meant that the soil of the place was so virtuous that no
living creature bore enmity against another.
Raja Jambu Lochan, who lived in the later Vedic period, decided to found his capital ,
Jambupura, on his soil, on the right bank of the Tawi, overlooking his brother king Bahu's
fort. Today the temple of Maha Kali, better known as "Bahu" or "Bawey Wali Mata",
located in the Bahu Fort, is considered second only to Mata Vaishno Devi in terms of
mystical power. The present temple was built shortly after the coronation of Maharaja
Gulab Singh, in 1822. The existing fort, as well as the Manasabdar's palace inside it, was
constructed in 1820.
A Temple City: Jammu is justly famous for its temples. Infact, it is known as the city of
temples and the every fame of its trends to overshadow its palaces, forts, forests and
powerful Ziarats (shrines). If Bahu Mata is the presiding deity of Jammu, the Dargah of
Peer Budhan Ali Shah is the other shrine that protects Jammuites.
The other major tourist attraction is the Ragunath Temple Complex. Maharaja Gulab
Singh began the construction of the Raghunath Mandir Complex in the crowded
downtown Bazaar named after it, in 1851. It was left to his son, Ranbir Singh, to
inaugurate it six years later perhaps the most popular temple north of Banaras, it contains
representations of almost entire Hindu pantheon, though the emphasis falls on the various
incarnations of Lord Vishnu. The complex houses a rich collection of ancient texts and
manuscripts.
For those interested in languages one can hear Hindi, Kashmiri, English, Urdu, Punjabi
and Dogri spoken in Jammu. The old city of Jammu is perched on a hilltop beside the
Tawi River. A new town sprawls away from the hillside and extends for some distance
across the other side of the river.
History
Legend has it that Jamboo Loochen founded the city about three
thousand years ago. The Raja was hunting in the area, away from his
capital city of Bahu when he came across a lion and a goat drinking
from the same pond. The Shivadawala Shrine now stands on this spot in
the city. Jammu is known as 'the city of temples' because of its many
shrines, with their soaring golden spires or 'Shikhars'.
There are many other shrines and temples around the city and environs that date from
earlier years but the recorded history of Jammu begins from the time of the Dogra rulers
in the early 19th century. In 1846 the Dogra ruler of Jammu was created Maharaja of an
ill-defined Himalayan kingdom, 'to the eastward of the river Indus and westward of the
river Ravi', by the treaties of Lahore and Amritsar at the conclusion of the first Sikh war.
It was the lack of definition of this state - the forerunner of Jammu and Kashmir - that
caused the continuing disputes with Russia and China over territory. The British created
the state as part of a complex political buffer zone between their Indian Empire and China
and Russia.
For the Maharaja Gulab Singh, the treaty confirmed for him almost 25 years of fighting
and negotiation with the small hill tribes along the northern border of the Sikh Empire,
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centered on the Punjab. The region remained under Dogra rule until the partition of India
in 1947, when Hari Singh, the then Maharaja of Kashmir, decided that it would remain as
part of India and the state of Jammu & Kashmir was born.
KARGIL
Location: 234-km From Leh in the East, Ladakh Region, J&K
Altitude: 2,704m
Local Dialect: Purik
Historical Significance: An Important Trade And Transit Center in the Pan-Asian Trade
Network.
Kargil at an altitude of 2,704 m, 204-km from Srinagar in the west and
234-km from Leh in the east, is the second largest urban center of
Ladakh and headquarters of the district of same name. It's situated in a
lovely valley with apricot trees growing in the intensively cultivated
fields.
A quite town now, Kargil once served as important trade and transit center in the Pan-
Asian trade network. Numerous caravans carrying exotic merchandise comprising silk,
brocade, carpets, felts, tea, poppy, ivory etc. transited in the town on their way to and
from China, Tibet, Yarkand and Kashmir.
The old bazaar displayed a variety of Central Asian and Tibetan commodities even after
the cessation of the Central Asian trade in 1949 till these were exhausted about two
decades back. Similarly the ancient trade route passing through the township was lined
with several caravansaries. Now, since 1975, travelers of numerous nationalities have
replaced traders of the past and Kargil has regained its importance as a center of travel-
related activities.
An Adventurers' Base Camp: Being located in the center of the Himalayan region with
tremendous potentials for adventure activities, Kargil serves as an important base for
adventure tours in the heart of Himalayas. It is also the take off station for visitors to the
exotic Zanskar Valley. Tourists travelling between Srinagar and Leh have to make a night
halt here before starting the second leg of their journey.
The Town Life: The town lies nestling along the rising hillside of the lower Suru basin.
Two tributaries of the Suru River that meet here are the Drass and Wakha. The most
astounding things about the Kargil region are the artificially irrigated field areas. Since
irrigation is so important in this region, the distribution of water requires great care.
Every village is divided into groups, called "Gowar", have from five to 10 families, to
ensure an equitable arrangement.
Willows and poplars grow beside the irrigation ditches, which lead to the terraced fields
and line the road for much of its length in this region. They furnish building materials for
the construction of houses in this nearly treeless land.
The Kargil region actually gets more rainfall than in the rest of Ladakh and the area
grows plentiful wheat, barley, and vegetables and, of course, the apricots for which it is
famous. Peas have been recently introduced and are flourishing. In May the entire
countryside becomes awash with fragrant white apricot blossoms while August, the
ripening fruit lends it an orange hue.
The dialect spoken here is called "Purik" and shows its relationship with the dialect
spoken in Skardu, Pakistan. In contrast to the rest of Ladakh, the children here are taught
in Arabic. A momentous occasion in Kargil is the archery contest in May.
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People Of The Kargil Region: Kashmir’s once came to the Kargil region to graze their
cattle, and were followed by the tribes from Gilgit, Chitral and Mongols from Baltistan
who settled there permanently. Later an Aryan tribe, the Purkpas, who now live around
Drass, and the Dokpas, who are Aryan Buddhists, who live in the villages of Durchik and
Gurkun, north of Kargil, drove out the Mongols.
The Customs And Lifestyles: The Dokpas, who are Buddhists, are a community of
about 700 people, descended from migrants from Gilgit, found mostly in the Indus valley
villages of Durchik and Gurkun. They are known for the striking Aryan beauty of their
women, and for their fair skin. They are fond of ornaments - even men wear earrings,
necklaces, bracelets and strings of imitation pearls.
Both sexes decorate their caps with a variety of blood red flowers, which puts them apart
from all the other races in Ladakh. The Indus valley here is rich in fruit, particularly
grapes, and the Dokpas delight in drink and dance - milk however is taboo. This curious
mixture of Buddhist and Hindu religion means their respect for the cow is so intense that
even cow dung is never used as a manure or fuel. The people grow their hair long and
rarely bathe.
The route to their region, over the range from Kargil to the Indus valley, and thence down
to Leh, is forbidden to tourists because of the border dispute with Pakistan. The remote
locality of the lower Indus villages and the custom of marrying mostly among themselves
have preserved their distinctive identity. The government of a village is a seven-man
council, elected by all the men. In July these villages celebrate a harvest festival, which
lasts for several days. Gurdun, the main village of the region, is 80-km from Kargil.
Muta & Polyandry: The custom of 'Muta' limited-duration marriages is still practiced in
Kargil. The marriage contract signed at the wedding ceremony only applies for a limited
time - in some cases only for one day. Another Tibetan marriage custom, which often
strikes westerners as remarkable, is polyandry, the simultaneous marriage of more than
one man to the same woman.
Today polyandry is only practiced in outlying villages like Saliskote and Trespone. In this
situation a woman marries her husband's younger brothers, except for any who may be
monks. Together with the great number of unmarried monks and nuns, this practice
functions as a social form of birth control -from Cunningham's visit to Ladakh in the mid-
19th century, up to the latest government of India census, the population of Ladakh has
hardly altered.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Trespone and Sankhoo are two 'Imambaras' found in Kargil. These Turkish style
buildings have Persian and Arabic speaking Muslim mystics, known as "Aghas", in
residence. Kargil also has a mosque, the Jami Masjid. Kargil's Muslims are noted for their
extreme orthodoxy - women are conspicuously absent from the streets and all forms of
entertainment are frowned on. Like the Iranians the people follow the Shi'ite sect.
The Bazaar: The main bazaar has many Kashmiri products including embroidery,
turquoises, tobacco, raw sugar and exotic spices. One will also find cloth woven from the
finest wool from the long fleeced mountain goats, brass bowls, flower vases, wine cups
and tall jugs, leather shoes embroidered with silk or gold silver chains, rings, bracelets
and charms, paintings, Pashmina shawls, brightly colored rugs and other more Chinese
looking items. Nearby Tsaluskot is the grainery of the region, attracting people from
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Zanskar and Leh, who come to buy grain. The houses have stone foundations and a
superstructure of unbaked, heavy clay bricks.
EXCURSIONS
Mulbek: Situated 45-km East of Kargil on the road to Leh, Mulbek (3,230
m) in an area dominated by the Buddhists. It is situated along either banks
of the Wakha River, which originates. Many monuments of the early
Buddhists era dot the landscape and are accessible from the road.
Mulbek Chamba: The chief attraction of Mulbek (also spelt as Mulbekh)
is a 9 m high rock sculpture in deep relief of Maitreya, the Future Buddha. Its excursion
combines esoteric Shaivite symbolism with early Buddhist art. Situated right on the
highway, it dates back to the period when Buddhists missionaries came travelling east of
the Himalayas.
Mulbek Gompa: Perched atop a rocky cliff, Mulbek Gompa (monastery) dominates the
valley. It is easy to see why in bygone times this site served as an outpost to guard the
caravan route. Like all Buddhists monasteries frescoes and statues adorn it.
Shergol: Another picturesque village of the Wakha River valley, Shergol is situated
across the river, right of the Kargil-Leh road. The main attraction is a cave monastery
which is visible from a far as a white speck against the vertically rising ochre hill from
which it appears to hang out. Below this small monastery is a larger Buddhist nunnery
with about a dozen incumbents. The village is accessible by the motorable road that
branches off from the Kargil-Leh road, about 5-km short of Mulbek. Shergol is a
convenient base for an exciting 4-day trek across the mountain range into the Suru valley.
It is also the approach base for visiting Urgyan-Dzong, a meditation retreat lying deep
inside the mountains surrounding the Wakha River valley.
This meditation retreat lies tucked away in an amazing natural mountain fortress high up
in Zanskar range. Concealed within is a circular tableland with a small monastic
establishment at its center. The surrounding hillside reveals several caves where high-
ranking Buddhists saints meditated in seclusion. At least one such cave is associated with
the visit of Padmasambhava, the patron saint of Tibetan Buddhism. The main approach is
to footpath laid through the only gap available in the rocky ramparts.
Wakha Rgyal: Tucked away inside the picturesque upper part of the Wakha Valley,
upstream of Mulbek, Royal gives the appearance of a medieval settlement of cave
dwellings transported in to the modern times with some improvements and extensions.
The houses, neatly whitewashed and closely stacked, are dug into the sheer face of a
vertical cliff that rises high above the green valley bottom. From a far the village looks
like a colony of beehives hanging from the ochre granite of the Cliffside.
HOW TO REACH THERE
Road: The J&K SRTC operates regular buses including deluxe coaches between Srinagar
and Leh/Kargil. Cars and Jeep taxis can be hired at Srinagar and Leh for Kargil. Local
buses including mini coaches, for Mulbek leaves Kargil every morning and afternoon.
Cars and Jeep taxis can be hired at Kargil for same day return trips. Srinagar is also well
connected properly with rest of the country through Air and Road network.
WHERE TO STAY
Kargil: There is no dearth of accommodation in Kargil. Hotels are classified into A, B, C
and Economy class based upon the standard of establishments and service available.
There are two Tourist Bungalows at Kargil together provide suites and furnished rooms
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with proper catering facilities attached with each establishment. The Tourist Office,
Kargil, does advance reservation. There is also a circuit house at Baroo with excellent
furnished rooms, which can be reserved through the office of the District Development
Commissioner.
Mulbek: The Tourist Bungalow here provides excellent furnished rooms with catering
facilities. Dormitory accommodation at much reasonable price is available with some of
the teashops near Mulbek Chamba. Alternatively tourists can return to Kargil for the
night.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Banks: The State bank of India with money changing facility and J&K bank have a
branch each in Kargil.
Communication: Kargil has worldwide direct dialing telephone facility, besides post and
telegraph offices. In addition J&K Tourism operates its own wireless Radio phone
network with field stations at Kargil, Padum and Leh, which are connected with
controlling stations at Srinagar, Delhi and Jammu. During the tourist season mobile
wireless stations are also established in key places in the remote areas.
Health: The District hospital in Kargil is fairly well equipped and staffed with a team of
specialist and general practitioners. In addition there are Medical Dispensaries at Drass,
Mulbek, Trespone, Sankoo, Panikhar and Padum each headed by a qualified doctor and
equipped with basic health care paraphernalia.
MORE TOURIST INFORMATION
The Tourist office here regularly updates its store of information on the region. Tourists
undertaking mountaineering expedition on hard trekking along difficult routes are well
advised to inform the Tourist Office at Kargil about their routes and proposed program so
as to monitor their welfare.
Trekking Equipment: The tourist office in Kargil has some trekking equipment for hire
under the same conditions as the Leh office. The equipment includes a number of tents,
foam mattresses, sleeping bags, alpine jackets, and rucksacks, climbing equipment and so
on. Kargil is the starting point for most of the treks and journeys into the Zanskar valley,
although it is also possible to enter it from other points along the side of the Leh-Zanskar
range.
NEARBY CITIES
Shergol: 33-km
Mulbekh: 45-km
Panikhar: 70-km
Sankoo: 42-km
Rangdum: 130-km
PADUM
Location: Near Zanskar, Ladakh Region, J&K
Altitude: 3,505
Also known As: Padam
Historical Significance: Erstwhile Capital of Zanskar.
Once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Zanskar, Padum (3,505 m) is the present day
administrative headquarters of the region. With a population of nearly 1,500, Padum can
be described as the most populous settlement of Zanskar, otherwise a very scarcely
inhabited valley.
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A Trekker's Paradise: Incidentally, it is only in Padum that there is a
community of Muslims constituting nearly half the township's
population, its origin in the area dating from mid 17th century. Lately,
Padum has become famous as a major trekking base and a popular tourist
destination. Several places of tourist interest in the vicinity of the
township can be visited in the course of entertaining walks.
People And Their Lifestyle: Unlike most other Zanskaris, who are practically all
Buddhists, about 30% of Padum's inhabitants are not Ladakhis but Indo Aryans like the
Baltis and Lahulis and are followers of the Sunset Muslim sect. The division into these
two completely different population groups is instantly recognizable by the clothing they
wear.
The people are very hospitable but also shy, in the first four years after the re-opening of
Zanskar to foreign visitors only a couple of hundred people passed through. Making
contact with the children will result in an invitation into a house. If one wishes to make a
longer trek the administration or the tourist bureau will be happy to answer any questions
and are very helpful with the hiring of horses or obtaining accommodation.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
The nearest monument in Padum is a set of ancient rock carving on a huge boulder near
the riverbank, just below the old township. These dates from the 8th century and provide
epigraphic evidence that the region was under the influence of North Indian Buddhism
since ancient times.
The Starrimo Monastery with about 30 resident monks clings to a tree-covered ridge
above the old town. Across the expanse of cultivation lies the old village of Pibiting,
dominated by its picturesque hilltop monastery, a superb manifestation of stupa
architecture.
EXCURSION
Karsha Monastery: Karsha monastery is the largest in the Zanskar region. It is on a
hillside with commanding views of the entire valley and the main Himalayas to the south.
The monastery attracts monks from many of the surrounding villages, and at any one
time up to 100 monks may be in attendance. The monastic site was probably founded in
the 10th century, while the main prayer hall and monks quarters would have been built in
the early 15th century, the time when the Gelukpa order was popularized in Ladakh.
HOW TO REACH
Road: The 240-km long Kargil-Padum road, of which the first 90-km stretch is paved,
remains opened from around mid July to early November. The J&K SRTC operates a
thrice weekly B-class bus service from Kargil. However groups can charter A-Class or
even Super-Deluxe buses to visit Zanskar, including the interior places of interest like
Strongly, Zangla and Karsha.
Jeeps and Gypsy taxis can also be hired at Kargil. During June and early July, prior to
opening of the road, it is recommended to walk into Zanskar from Panikhar or Parkachik
onwards. In June, the summer is at its height in the region and the climate is ideal for
trekking along the route free from vehicular traffic of any kind and when the countryside
is freshly rejuvenated into life after months of frigid dormancy. |
10
WHERE TO STAY
The tourist Complex at Padum provides furnished rooms for staying. There is catering
arrangement in the complex, while camping place nearby is available for budget tourists
travelling with personal tents. Padum town has several private hotels where rooms with
basic facilities are available. At Karsha dormitory accommodation is available in the
newly build inn where basic vegetarian food is also provided.
In the distant villages like Strongdey, Zangla, Sani, etc., accommodation can be sought
from the villagers either on payment or in exchange of a suitable gift. Some monasteries
may also take in guests, through more as a gesture of goodwill than on purely commercial
consideration. Of course the guest is expected to compensate the monastery suitably.
NEARBY CITIES
Karsha: 8-km
Stongdey: 19-km
PHUGTHAL
Location: Near Padum, Zanskar Region of Ladakh, J&k
Altitude: 3,850m
Also Spelt As: Phugtal
Main Attraction: Phuthal Monastery
A Beautiful Buddhist Town: Phugthal is by far the most spectacularly located monastic
establishment anywhere in Ladakh, the Phugthal complex spills out of the mouth of a
huge cave high up in the sheer mountain face of a lateral gorge through which a major
tributary of the southern Lungnak (Lingti-Tsarap) River flows.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Phugthal Monastery: Perhaps, the most isolated monastic
establishment of Zanskar, its foundation dates back to the early 12th
century. The sight of the monastery on the limestone Cliffside never
fails to impress. The main assembly hall is carved out of a huge cave,
with the monks quarters scattered down the hillside. Inside the
monastery there is an inscription to "Coso de Koros", one of the first
Europeans to visit the Zanskar region and the first to translate the Buddhist texts from
Ladakhi into English.
The Trekking Route: Phugthal is accessible from the Padum-Manali trekking route
through a 7-km long trail that branches off from the Purney Bridge on the main trail. A
visit to Phugthal, including Bardan and Muney monastery enroute, makes a good 5-days
round trek from Padum. Alternatively, one can add one extra day to Padum-Manali
trekking itinerary to include a day-return visit to this unique monastic establishment
inhabited by a resident community of about 40 monks.
HOW TO REACH THERE
thrice-weekly bus service from Kargil. However groups can charter A-Class or even
Super-Deluxe buses to visit Zanskar, including the interior places of interest like
Strongdey, Zangla and Karsha.
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is freshly rejuvenated into life after months of frigid dormancy.
WHERE TO STAY
The tourist Complex at Padum provides furnished rooms. There is catering arrangement
in the complex, while camping place nearby is available for budget tourists travelling
with personal tents. Padum town has several private hotels where rooms with basic
facilities are available. At Karsha Dormitory accommodation is available in the newly
build inn where basic vegetarian food is also provided. In the distant villages like
Stongdey, Zangla, Sani, etc., accommodation can be sought from the villagers either on
payment or in exchange of a suitable gift. Some monasteries may also take in guests,
through more as a gesture of goodwill than on purely commercial consideration. Of
course the guest is expected to compensate the monastery suitably.
NEARBY CITIES
Zanskar: 70-km
Stongdey: 50-km
PAHALGAM
Location: 95-km From Srinagar, Kashmir Region, J&K
Altitude: 2,130m
Main Attractions: Mamaleshwara, Baisaran, Tulian Lake, Aru
At an altitude of 2,130m and about 95-km from Srinagar, Pahalgam is
probably the most popular hill resort in the Kashmir valley. Since it is
rather lower than Gulmarg the nighttime temperatures do not drop so
low and it has the further advantage of the beautiful Lidder River
running right through the town.
Pahalgam is situated at the junction of the Aru and Sheshnag Rivers and surrounded by
soaring, fir-covered mountains with bare, snow-capped peaks rising behind them. The
Aru flows down from the Kolahoi glacier beyond Lidderwat while the Sheshnag from
glaciers along the great Himalayan.
At the confluence of the streams flowing from the river Lidder and Sheshnag Lake,
Pahalgam was once a humble shepherd's village with breathtaking views. Now it
Kashmir's premier resort, cool even during the height of summer. A number of hotels and
lodges cater to all preferences and budgets, from luxurious to unpretentious trekkers'
lodges, including JKTDC's delightfully romantic, fully furnished huts, partially concealed
by giant pine trees.
Pahalgam Walks: There are many short walks available from Pahalgam and in addition
it is an excellent base for longer treks such as those to the Kolahoi glacier or to the
Amarnath cave. Pahalgam can also be used as a starting point for treks out of the region.
Pahalgam is particularly famed for its many shepherds and they're a common sight,
driving their flocks of sheep along the paths all around the town.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS: Around Pahalgam are many places of interest, and because
the resort is set between fairly hills, it is worth hiring a pony rather than walking. Pony
fares are posted at prominent locations.
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Mamaleshwara: Mamaleshwara is only a km or so downstream
from Pahalgam, and on the opposite side of the Lidder, is this small
Shiva temple with its square, stone tank. It is thought to date from
the reign of king Jayasima in the 12th century, even earlier.
Baisaran: This meadow, about 5-km from Pahalgam and 150m
higher, provides excellent views over the town and the Lidder valley. Pine forests and the
snowballed mountains surround the grassy glen. One can hire ponies for this trek from
near the center of town.
Tulian Lake: If one continues 11-km beyond Baisaran one reaches the Tulian Lake at
3,353m, 1,200m higher up. It is covered in ice for much of the year and surrounded by
peaks, which rise more than 300m above its shores. It also can be reached by pony trek.
Aru: The little village of Aru is actually the first stage from Pahalgam on the trek to
Lidderwat and the Kolahoi glacier. It makes an interesting day walk from Pahalgam,
following the Lidder river for Pahalgam, following the Lidder river for 11-km upstream.
The main track, which also can be taken by car, is on the left bank of the river. There is
also a less used, and more difficult path, on the Right Bank. At Aru one will often find the
Gujars, living in their log huts with their flocks of sheep and goats, en route to the higher
sheep and goats, en route to the higher pastures for the summer.
Hajan: Hajan, on the way to Chandanwari is an idyllic spot for a picnic. Filmgoers will
recognize it instantly as it has been the location of several movie scenes.
Chandanwari & Passage To The Amarnath Yatra: Situated 16-km from Pahalgam,
Chandanwari is the starting point of the Amarnath Yatra, which takes place every year in
the month of Sawan (Rain). The destination is the Amarnath Cave, believed to the abode
of Lord Shiva. Although the road from Pahalgam to Chandanwari is on fairly flat terrain,
and can be undertaken by car, from Chandanwari onwards the track becomes much
steeper, being accessible on foot or by pony.
Located 11-km from Chandanwari is the mountain lake of Sheshnag, after which 13-km
away is the last stop, Panchtarni. The Amarnath cave is 6-km away from there. During
the month of 'Sawan', an ice stalagmite forms a natural Shivling (also spelt as Shivlinga),
that waxes and wanes with the phases of the moon.
The state government makes extensive arrangements every year for the successful
completion of the pilgrimage, registering each one of the over one lakh pilgrims, pony
owners and Dandi Walas, providing camps en route, and ensuring safe, comfortable and
speedy progress of the Yatris.
Even if one's visit to Pahalgam is not during the period of the Yatra, one can still take a
pony ride up to Sheshnag Lake, returning late evening.
Fishing: Pahalgam is one of Kashmir's popular trout fishing beats. Kashmir is famous for
its trout although they tend to be rather small. Additionally, fishing licences are hard to
get and rather expensive. A compulsion is to keep am guide and one is also permitted to
catch six fishes, which is the daily limit.
EXCURSIONS
On The Road to Pahalgam: The road to Pahalgam starts out towards Jammu but later
branches off to the east at Anantnag. There are a number of points of interest along this
route including several Mughal gardens - indeed if one take a bus tour to Pahalgam one’s
be thoroughly saturated with Mughal gardens by the time one arrives.
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Pampore: Only 16-km out of Srinagar on the main highway south, Pampore is the
Center of Kashmir's saffron industry. Highly prized for it's flavoring and coloring
properties and rather expensive, saffron is gathered from flowers, which are harvested in
October.
Avantipur: This popular stop on Pahalgam excursions is noted for
its two ruined Hindu temples. The temples were both constructed
by King Avantivarman, after whom this ancient center was named,
between 855 and 883 AD. The larger of the two is dedicated to
Vishnu and known as the Avantiswami temple. A huge wall
encloses the central shrine with four smaller shrines around the
center. The other temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and known as the
Avantishvara, is about a km before the Vishnu temple, but also close to the main road. It
is situated in a courtyard, enclosed by a massive stonewall with a gateway on the western
side. The nearby village of Bijbihara has a huge Chinar tree, claimed to be the largest in
Kashmir.
Sangam: A little further down the road, Sangam is interesting for its strong local industry
of cricket bat manufacturing! One'll see thousands of cricket bats displayed by the
roadside and thousands more roughly cut lengths of wood being seasoned.
Anantnag: At this point the road fords, one route turning

northeast to Pahalgam and two others southeast to Achabal and
Kokarnag or to Verinag. The Jammu road leaves this route just
before Anantnag at Khanabal.
Anantnag has a number of sulphur springs, esteemed for their
curative properties. The largest spring is believed to be the
home of Ananta, the serpent on which Lord Vishnu reclines and from which the town
takes its name - 'Abode of Ananta'. Ananta means 'endless' and the water issues from the
base of a small hillock and rushes into another spring in the middle of that is a natural
mineral deposit column which the locals revere as a lingam. On the 14th day of a full
moon fortnight in September/October, there is a festival where the people fast and pour
rice and milk into the spring to feed the goldfish.
At one time Anantnag was known as Islamabad but this name is no longer used, due to
the confusion it would cause with the not too far distant capital of Pakistan also named
Islamabad.
Achabal: The Mughal gardens in this small town were begun by Nur Jahan and
completed by Jahanara, daughter of Shah Jahan, in 1640. It's one of the most carefully
designed of the Kashmir gardens and was said to be a favorite retreat of Nur Jahan. Water
from a copious spring flows from the garden in three stone lined canals, over three
terraces and three cascades, with several fountains in the main canal. There are three
pavilions on the upper terrace, shaded by Chinar Trees. There's a tourist bungalow, tourist
huts and a camping ground at Achabal.
Kokarnag: One may be suffering garden overload by the time one gets here, but
Kokarnag has yet another one, noted for its roses. Like Achabal there is a tourist
bungalow, tourist huts and a camping ground for accommodation.
Daksum: Somewhat above Kokarnag, along the bring river valley, there's the small hill
resort of Daksum at 2,438m. It's on the trekking route to Kishtwar and has a Rest house,
14
Tourist Bungalow and plenty of camping spots. From Daksum the trail rises fairly steeply
to the Sinthan Pass at 3,748m. The pass is open from April to September for trekkers.
Mattan & Martand: Only a few km beyond Anantnag, on the Pahalgam
road, Mattan is an important Hindu pilgrimage point due to its fish filled
springs. A complicated legend relates that the springs were created when
Lord Shiva broke open an egg, which had been thrown there, the egg
being the reincarnated form of a forgetful boy, who had been cursed by a
wandering sage and that's only half the story!
On a plateau above Mattan and 3-km to the south, stands the huge ruined temple of
Martand. Built by Lalitaditya Mukhtapida it is the most impressive ancient ruin in
Kashmir and beautifully sited. The ruins are 67m by 43m and consist of a portico with a
small-detached shrine on both side and a quadrangular courtyard. 84 columns surrounded
the courtyard - the multiple of the number of days in the week by the number of signs in
the zodiac.
From here to Pahalgam the road follows the course of the Lidder River, past some good
trout fishing stretches.
Verinag: Close to the foot of the Pir Panjal range, the spring at Verinag is said to be the
source of the Jhelum river, which flows north through Srinagar, Jehangir built an
octagonal stone basin at the spring in 1612 and in 1620 his son, Shah Jahan, laid out a
garden around it. The spring is said to be over 15m deep and is reputed never to dry up or
overflow. There is also a tourist bungalow at Verinag.
HOW TO REACH THERE
Air: Pahalgam is in Anantnag District and is about 96-km from Srinagar. The nearest
airport is in Badgam District. This Airport is connected with all the major cities of India.
Rail: The nearest railhead is at Jammu and from there National Highway NH1A connects
the Kashmir valley with India.
Road: The road to Pahalgam can be taken to Khannabal or alternatively from Bijbehara
villages from National Highway NH1A. Every sort of transport to suit every budget from
Buses to Taxis ply on this Highway. It takes around 10 to 12 hours to cross this
mountainous road, which crosses some beautiful spots and the famous Jawahar Tunnel
linking Kashmir Valley with India. Bus service is available from Srinagar and Anantnag,
which leave at fixed time from the Bus stands. Taxis and other sort of transport can be
hired from Srinagar at pre-fixed rates. Assistance is available at Tourist Reception Center,
Srinagar. On Road to Pahalgam one comes across the beautiful Lidder Valley with
important spots of Mattan and Aishmuqam.
WHERE TO STAY
Pahalgam has a number of Hotels and lodges of various types, which are open only
during summer months. JKTDC has a Dak Bungalow and number of Huts, which are
available on hire. The tariffs depend on the type of accommodation to be hired.
Accommodation needs to be booked well in advance from Srinagar. Tourists are advised
to contact Manager Tourist Reception center Jammu/Srinagar for booking and Tariffs.
Hotel bookings can be executed from their representatives in Srinagar the list of which
can be had from the JKTDC.
MORE TOURIST INFORMATION
The tourist office is just around the corner from the bus halt, on the main road. They may
be able to help with hiring porters or ponies. Fishing permits have to be obtained in
15
Srinagar. There is a bank in Pahalgam and a post office during the tourist season. If one is
planning on trekking from Pahalgam there are plenty of shops selling food supplies
although it's cheaper and more plentiful in Srinagar. If trekking is altogether too
strenuous Pahalgam also offers the Pahalgam club with tennis courts, badminton courts, a
golf course and card evenings!
NEARBY CITIES
Srinagar: 95-km
Pampore: 16-km
Avantipur: 29-km
Sangam: 35-km
Anantnag: 56-km
Kokernag: 77-km
Daksum: 90-km
Mattan & Martand: 61 & 64-km
RANGDUM
Location: 130-km Southeast of Kargil, On Kargil-Zanskar Road, Ladakh Region, J&K
Altitude: 3,980m
Main Attractions: Rangdum Monastery, Trekking to Henaskot
Best Time To Visit: Late June to Mid-September
The farthest and the most isolated part of the Suru Valley, Rangdum is an elliptical
expanded plateau surrounded by colorful hills on the one side and glacier encrusted
Rocky Mountains on the other. Situated 130-km Southeast of Kargil, it falls midway
between Kargil and Padum.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Due to its remoteness from inhabited parts either of Suru or Zanskar, the
areas wild beauty is almost haunting, while its isolation is near perfect
even as the unpaved Zanskar road traverses its length.
Rangdum Monastery: The chief attraction of this area is an imposing
18th century Buddhist monastery with about 40 monks in residence.
Perched picturesquely atop a centrally rising hillock, which is entrenched
around by the bifurcated course of a wild mountain stream, the Rangdum monastery has
the aura of an ancient fortification guarding a mystical mountain valley.
The villagers are descendents of the monastery's agricultural, serf-tenants, who do not
own any land in the region. The monastery enjoys perpetual and unalienable ownership
of the entire valley including the fields tilled by the villagers, the pastures, hills and even
the streams.
Trekking Route to Hinaskot/Henaskot: Rangdum also serves as an important trekking
base. The most popular trek from here leads to Henaskut (also spelt as Hinaskot) near
Lamayuru, across the spectacular gorge of the Kanji valley. This 5-day trek also forms the
last leg of the two weeklong Trans-Himalayan traverse between Kashmir and Ladakh.
HOW TO REACH THERE
Road: Sankoo, Panikhar and Parachik are connected with Kargil with regular bus
services, in summer even twice a day. A bus ride from Kargil takes 2 hours to Sankoo, 3
hours to Panikhar and about 4 hours to Parkachik. Rangdum is serviced by the BI-week
bus service to Padum, which increases according to demand. Some trucks plying between
Kargil and Padum also offer a lift in the cabin for the price of a bus seat. Cars and jeeps
16
taxis can be hired from Kargil for visiting different places in the Suru Valley, including
Rangdum and Penzila.
WHERE TO STAY
At Sankoo basic accommodation is available in the Govt. Rest House. A Tourist
Bungalow is also situated over here. At Panikhar the Tourist Bungalow provides 4
furnished rooms while some private hotels also offers accommodation. At Rangdum the
newly built Tourist Complex provides 5 furnished rooms and dormitory accommodation.
Tented accommodation operated by the monastery management provides simple
overnight shelter while basic food is available at the nearby teashop.
NEARBY CITIES
Kargil: 130-km
Sankoo: 90-km
Panikhar: 73-km
RUPSHU
Location: East Of Zanskar Region of Ladakh, J&K
Main Attractions: Pangong Lake, Tankse
Native People: Changpas
Beauty Of The Heights: Located east of Zanskar, the restricted area of Rupshu is
Ladakh's easternmost and most elevated region, blending into western Tibet's high plains.
In fact, topographically, but not politically, Rupshu is an integral part of the Chang Tang,
Tibet's 600-mile-wide, 15,000-foot high northern steppes, of which it is the westernmost
extremity.
An Ancient Nomad Route: Rupshu has majestic sweeping deserts separated by narrow
ranges with lofty passes offering distant views, and a hardy, wide ranging nomadic people
called Changpas. Traders from Lahaul still drive their caravans of sturdy mules across
Rupshu into western Tibet, carrying goods such as cloth and costume jewelry and trading
for gems, stones, hides, and wool.
The lowest point in all of Rupshu is at 13,000 feet along the Indus River near the town of
Chumatang. Within Rupshu's 5,500-square-mile area are the peaks of the Ladakh and
Zanskar mountains, and several large, crystalline lakes including Tso Morari and
Pangong, each framed in wide basins between the two ranges.
The Native Changpas: The 14,000-foot and 15,000 foot plains of Rupshu support the
totally nomadic Changpas. The Changpa economy is geared to the yak, a creature that
dislikes descending lower than 12,000 feet in elevation in this region and that provides
mild and meat for food, dung for fuel, and wool for clothing and shelter.
The Changpas live in black Yak hair tents called "Rebu" and traverse a land so high that,
as in Nepal's Dolpo region, one of the first requirements for anyone living there is an
animal skin bellows to keep the Yak dung fire going in the thin air. Changpas have
traditionally subsisted on a hearty but unvarying diet consisting almost entirely of roasted
barley flour, tea, Chang, meat, salt, milk, butter, and cheese. The menu most days is 'Phe'
with 'Solja' and various kinds of soup.
The women wear their own version of the Ladakhi Perag, and like all women from
Ladakh, they buy as much of the imported coral and Tibetan turquoise for their 'Perag' as
they can afford. Changpas are Buddhist and like most ethnic Tibetans, they celebrate
Losar with fervor and gladly travel long distances for celebrations.
17
Myths & Legends: Rupshu, like all of Ladakh, abounds in myth and legend, much of it
based on fact. Some say that Jesus passed the "lost" years of his life in Hemis monastery.
Lama Govinda received his second spiritual, mystical initiation while resting at Thak
Thok monastery on the approach to the Chang La. And gypsy Davy and Lady Ba camped
for three weeks at various places about Pangong Lake in the early 1920s. Once, along the
northern side of the lake, Lady Ba's horse, Tomar, disappeared with a herd of Kyang. The
best Shikaris were sent to track him, and they did, across two ranges and a valley. On the
third day, Tomar returned "seven years younger than he went out on
Shikar."
Fauna: Although the once massive herds of speedy Kyang, the
Tibetan wild Ass, are greatly depleted in Rupshu, the Marmot
colonies have not visibly suffered from poaching. In Rupshu, as in
the sweeping Deosai plains of Baltistan and parts of rugged Zanskar,
the sizable, sleek Marmots, larger than the groundhogs they resemble, are the real
denizens of this high mountain desert.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
The traditional path across Rupshu, the first stretch of the Leh-Gartok-Lhasa caravan
route, is now a paved road. It diverges north from the Indus at Karu village, climbing the
Ladakh range, across the Indus valley from Hemis Gomba, to reach the Chang La,
passing several villages and Chendey and Trakthok monasteries. This route now reaches
Tankse 20 miles past the Chang la.
Tankse: Tankse is a village 14 miles south of the Shyok River's southern bend. It used to
house Ladakh's easternmost customs post and was the effective limit of Ladakh's
easternmost customs post and was the effective limit of Ladakh's inhabited territory. At
Tankse, the road continues southeast to the Indus valley and the border village and
military post of Demchok. The large town of Ali in Tibet lies not far beyond.
Pangong Lake: Another nearly level valley leads east from Tankse. Cradled by marble
cliffs, this route crosses a low; lade topped pass and, 25 miles beyond, reaches Pangong
Lake. Vivid blue Pangong Lake, meaning "great cavity" in Tibetan, is continuous for
nearly 100 miles as it crosses into Tibet, reaching as Far East as the town of Rudok.
Along its shores are still found the occasional black-necked Crane, an endangered species
with white feathers over its body and a spot of rust on its head. Pangong evokes
wonderful images: a solitary, tranquil camp near a glacial stream; drinking tea with a
Changpa family; and, come evening, tracking the Shy Kyang through low lakeside hills.
HOW TO REACH THERE
thrice-weekly bus services from Kargil. However groups can charter A-Class or even
Strongdey, Zangla and Karsha. Jeeps and Gypsy taxis can also be hired at Kargil.
During June and early July, prior to opening of the road, it is recommended to walk into
Zanskar from Panikhar or Parkachik onwards. In June, the summer is at its height in the
region and the climate is ideal for trekking along the route free from vehicular traffic of
any kind and when the countryside is freshly rejuvenated into life after months of frigid
dormancy.
18
WHERE TO STAY
facilities are available. Accommodation is also available at the Karsha dormitory. In the
distant villages like Strongdey, Zangla, Sani, etc., accommodation can be sought from the
villagers either on payment or in exchange of a suitable gift. Some monasteries may also
take in guests, through more as a gesture of goodwill than on purely commercial
SANI
Location: 6-km West Of Padum, On the Kargil Road, Ladakh Region, J&K
Main Attractions: Sani Monastery, Kanika Stupa
Best Time To Visit: July to Early November
This picturesque village of Sani is 6-km west of Padum, on the road to Kargil. The chief
attraction here is the castle like monastery, which, unlike other monasteries of the region,
is built on level ground.
By legend its initial foundation is associated with Kanishka on account of the Kanika
Stupa, which stands in the backyard of the walled complex. The main building comprises
a huge multi-columned central prayer hall housing an array of statues of popular
Buddhists divinities and 'Drugpa' (Old Schools) high saints.
The most interesting frescoes, however, can be seen in a small, almost discarded chapel at
the back of the main building, whose walls are adorned with stucco murals depicting
landscapes and floral designs based on the life of Padma-Sambhava. Adjoining this
monastic complex is an old cemetery surrounded by a ring of ancient rock carving which
reflect Indian artistic influence.
Kanika Stupa: Sani is also associated with Naropa, the famous Indian yogi from
Vikramsila, who is said to have sat in meditation for some time under the Kanika Stupa.
A small room housing a veiled bronze figure of the Yogi, which is unveiled, once a year
in late July now occupies the site. A 2-day long festival is held to celebrate this occasion,
which is attended by people from far, and wide monks from Bardan Monastery perform
masked dances as ritual offering.
HOW TO REACH THERE
Stongdey (also spelt as Stongde), Zangla and Karsha.
is freshly rejuvenated into life after months of frigid dormancy.
WHERE TO STAY
19
facilities are available. At Karsha dormitory accommodation is available in the newly
Strongdey, Zangla, Sani, etc., Accommodation can be sought from the villagers either on
NEARBY CITIES
Padum: 6-km
Karsha: 14-km
Stongdey: 25-km
SANKOO
Location: 42-km West Of Kargil, Ladakh region, J&K
Famous As: A Picnic Spot
Main Attractions: Sankoo-Mulbek Trek, Kartse-Khar
A picturesque expanse surrounded by colorful Rocky Mountains, Sankoo is an upcoming
township with a small bazaar and numerous villages around. Dense plantations of
Poplars, Willows, Myricarea and wild Roses fill the bowl shaped valley, giving it the
ambience of a man-made forest tucked within the mountain ramparts.
Two side valleys drained by large tributary streams of the Suru River, the Kartse flowing
from the east and the Nakpochu descending from the west, open up on either side of the
expanse. The Karste Valley runs deep into the eastern mountains mass with a large
number of isolated villages tucked within its course.
The Sankoo-Mulbek Trek: The 4-day trek between Sankoo and Mulbek follows this
valley; the route passes through some very beautiful alpine areas on the way the 4,950 m
high Rusi-la . The high altitude settlement of Safi and its mixed Buddhist-Muslim
population is struck between the Rusi-la and the Shafi-la over which the final leg of the
trek passes before entering the Mulbek valley.
A southward diversion from the foot of the Rusi-la leads to Rangdum across the glaciated
Rangdum pass where the Karste River rises. The 3-day trek to Drass across the Umba-la
(3,350m) follows the western valley.
A Scenic Picnic Spot: Sankoo is a very popular among local picnic lovers who throng
the area from Kargil town and other places. Locally it is also popular as a place of
pilgrimage to the ancient shrines of Muslim scholar-saint, Sayed Mir Hashim, who was
specially invited from Kashmir for imparting religious teachings to the region's Buddhist
ruler, Thi-Namgyal of the Suru principality, following his conversion to Islam during the
16th century. The shrine is situated in the village of Kartse-Khar, the erstwhile capital of
Purig Sultanate, on the outskirts of Sankoo where the chief had his summer palace.
Another nearby attraction of Sankoo is the 7m tall rock statue, which was built in the 7th
century.
HOW TO REACH THERE
Road: Sankoo, Panikhar and Parachik are connected with Kargil with regular bus
services, in summer even twice a day. A bus ride from Kargil takes 2 hours to Sankoo, 3
hours to Panikhar and about 4 hours to Parkachik. Rangdum is serviced by the weekly
bus service to Padum, which increases according to demand. Some trucks plying between
Kargil and Padum also offer a lift in the cabin for the price of a bus seat. Cars and jeeps
20
taxis can be hired from Kargil for visiting different places in the Suru Valley, including
Rangdum and Penzila.
WHERE TO STAY
At Sankoo basic accommodation is available in the Govt. Rest House. A Tourist
Bungalow is also being built here. At Panikhar the Tourist Bungalow provides 4
furnished rooms while some private hotels also offers accommodation. At Rangdum the
newly built Tourist Complex provides 5 furnished rooms and dormitory accommodation.
Tented accommodation operated by the monastery management provides simple
overnight shelter while basic food is available at the nearby teashop.
NEARBY CITIES
Kargil: 42-km
Panikhar: 38-km
Parkachik: 58-km
Rangdum: 98-km
SONAMARG
Location: 81-km From Srinagar, Kashmir Region, J&K
Altitude: 2,740m
Also known As: Sonmarg
The Meadow of Gold: At a height of 2,740m, Sonamarg is the last
major point in the Kashmir valley before the Zoji La pass into Ladakh.
At the pass the green, lush Kashmiri landscape abruptly switches to the
barren, dry landscape of Ladakh. Sonamarg is thus not only a good base
for treks but also a jumping off point for trips into Ladakh.
The name means 'Meadow of Gold' and although this could be due to the profusion of
flowers that carpet the meadow in the spring it is also possible that the name derives from
Sonamarg's strategic trading position in the days when this was a major route into central
Asia. The Sindh River meanders along here and abounds with Trout and Mahseer.
Sonamarg's Importance Is Two Fold: It is the starting point of a major trek passing
several mountain lakes - Vishansar, Kishansar, Gadsar, Satsar and Gangabal. One trek
leads all the way to the Amarnath cave. The other reason for Sonamarg's importance lies
in the fact that it is the last halt on the Kashmir side for the drive from Srinagar to Leh.
Walks From Sonamarg: One of the most popular short walks from Sonamarg and a
major attraction during the summer months is the 4-km route to Thajiwas, a small valley
at the foot of the Sonamarg glacier. A path leads up to the Shakhdar hill, overlooking the
glacier from the northeast. It is dangerous to climb the steep slope leading up to the
glacier. Ponies can be hired for the trip up to Thajiwas glacier. Often in early summer one
will meet groups of Gujar passing through Sonamarg on their way to the alpine meadows
for the summer.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Nilagrad: A mountain river meets the Indus at the Baltic colony, Nilagrad, 6-km away
from Sonamarg. The water of the river is reddish in colour. The Baltic thinks the water
has curative power of many diseases. Inhabitants of the colony visit this place every
Sunday to bath in the river.
21
Bisansar Lake & Krishnasar Lake: There is a lake in every corner of the Himalayas
and there is one at Sonamarg also. The road proceeds from Sonamarg to Bisansar Lake
via Nichinai Pass. Crossing the river at Nichinai Pass stands the Bisansar Lake at an
altitude of 4, 084m, with its lovely natural beauty. Beside the lake is the Krishnasagar
Lake at an altitude of 3,801m, popular for Trout fishing.
EXCURSIONS
Baltal: This beautiful meadow is right at the foot of the Zoji La
pass and thus is the final place in Kashmir. The river from the foot
of the Amarnath glacier meets the Indus near Baltal. It stands at a
height of 2,743m and during the Amarnath pilgrimage there are
tents set up here. It is possible to walk to the Amarnath cave, more
usually approached from Pahalgam, in one day. Check about conditions before departing,
though. The weather can be treacherous and at other times melting snow and ice make the
route very dangerous. There's now a jeep road most of the way to the cave. The turn off
to Baltal is at 94-km on the Leh road, and then it's 3-km or so downhill.
Yushmarg: If one can take some time out, then take tour of Yushmarg in daytime. Buses
on conducted tours run to Yushmarg thrice a week. 47-km southwest of Srinagar amidst
pines and firs lies the vale - Yushmarg (2,700m) at the slope of the Pir Panjal ranges. Its is
a beautiful pasture as well as a nice picnic spot.
HOW TO REACH THERE
Air: Sonamarg is in Srinagar District on the Srinagar Leh Highway, 81-km from
Srinagar. The nearest airport is in Badgam District, connecting the capital city with all the
major cities in India.
Rail: The nearest Railhead is at Jammu and from there National Highway NH1A
connects the Kashmir valley with India.
Road: Every sort of transport to suit every budget from Buses to Taxis ply on National
Highway NH1A. It takes around 10 to 12 hours to cross this mountainous road, which
crosses some beautiful spots and the famous Jawahar Tunnel linking Kashmir Valley with
India. Bus service is available from Srinagar and Anantnag, which leave at fixed time
from the Bus stands. Taxis and other sort of transport can be hired from Srinagar at pre-
fixed rates. Assistance is available at Tourist Reception Center, Srinagar.
WHERE TO STAY
Sonamarg has a number of Hotels and lodges of various types, which are open only
during summer months. JKTDC has a Dak Bungalow and number of Huts, which are
available on hire. The tariffs depend on the type of accommodation to be hired.
Accommodation needs to be booked well in advance from Srinagar. Tourists are advised
to contact Manager Tourist Reception center Jammu/Srinagar for booking and tariffs.
NEARBY CITIES
Srinagar: 81-km
Baltal: 98-km
Yushmarg: 34-km
SRINAGAR
Location: Kashmir Region, J&K
Main Attractions: Canals, Houseboats & Mughal Gardens
Significance: Capital of J&K.
Best Time To Visit: In Summer - June to Early November
22
In winter - December to February
The capital of Jammu and Kashmir and the largest city in the state, Srinagar (1,730m) is
famous for its canals, houseboats and Mughal gardens. The city itself is quite unlike most
other large Indian cities for here you are much more in Central Asia than on the sub
continent. It's a city full of intriguing alleyways and curious buildings. A place where it's
very easy to spend a few hours simply wandering - particularly along the old city streets
near the Jhelum river.
An Ancient Learning Center Arts & Culture: The city has long been a center of the
arts and learning - it has had a university or for hundreds of years and is a center of
Sanskrit study. 'Sri' means beauty or wealth of knowledge and 'Nagar' Means City. The
great Buddhist emperor Ashoka originally founded the city - the present village of
Pandrethan marks his old city. The present city was founded by Pravarasena II (79-139
AD) who named it "Praparapura" and built it practically contiguous with the old capital,
which was called "Srinagari".
Praparapura is recorded in Chinese annals by Hiuan Tsang who visited the city in about
630 AD and described it as extending about 4-km from north to south and about 2-km
from east to west along the right bank of the Jhelum. King Ananta was the first to transfer
his royal residence to the left bank of the river.
A Legend: Legend has it that when Pravarasena decided to build himself a new capital,
to choose the location he started walking at midnight and was confronted by a demon on
the other side of the Mahasarit River. The demon spread his bent leg across the stream
and dared the king to cross over it to the other side. The king cut off the leg with one
stroke of his sword and calmly crossed.
The demon was delighted with the king's boldness and told him to build the city where he
would find the beginnings of a plan laid out for him. The next morning the king found the
boundary lines drawn at the foot of Hari Parbat and built his city there. To this day a
Sathu or Bund that is shaped like a bent leg separates the waters of the Dal Lake from the
Tsont-i-Kul.
Houseboats: If one is longing for the delights of a houseboat holiday,
then check out lakes of Srinagar to try one. Srinagar is a unique city
because of its lakes - the Dal, Nagin and Anchar. The River Jhelum also
flows through a part of the city.
Most houseboats on the Nagin and the Jhelum are situated on the banks
of the lake, and can be accessed directly from land without the help of a Shikara. While
all those on the Dal require a Shikara to get to and from them. Most houseboats on the
Dal are situated in long straggling rows; some face the boulevard, Srinagar's exciting
address, while others are situated singly or in-groups of two and three.
City Of Lakes: Srinagar's lakes are the reason why the city receives so many tourists.
Not just expanse of water, the lakes are filled with houseboats, villages, narrow water
canals, lotus and vegetable gardens and houses and shops.
Life on the lakes, as witnessed from the confines of a Shikara, is unique. It is possible to
book a Shikara for the whole day and sightsee Nishat Garden, Nasim Bagh, Hazratbal
Mosque, Pathar Masjid and Shah Hamdan's Shrine, having a picnic lunch in the boat.
While Nagin is quieter, the Dal is full of local colour, with tourists being rowed in
Shikara to shops selling every conceivable handicraft - all within the lake.
23
Let's have A Ride of the Lake!: A Shikara ride is one of the most soothing, relaxing
aspects of a holiday in Kashmir. It can be an hour-long ride to see the sights of the Dal; a
shopping by Shikara expedition to visit handicraft shops within the periphery of the lake;
or a whole day trip to visit important city landmarks.
Because the Dal is so central to the landscape of Srinagar, many places of tourist interest
have, over the ages, been built in its vicinity.
The Mughal Gardens: The art of designing formal gardens which the Mughal (also spelt
as Mogul) emperors expended such time and energy upon, reached its zenith in Kashmir.
The Mughal gardens in Agra or Lahore may be very fine but only in Kashmir is the
formal beauty of the gardens matched by the natural beauty of the surrounding
countryside. The gardens follow a standard pattern with a central channel carrying water
through the descending terraces in a delightful series of cascades, falls and pools.
STONGDEY MONASTERY
Location: 18-km North Of Padum, Ladakh Region, J&K
Also Spelt As: Stongde
Altitude: 3,500m
Famous As: The Second Largest Monastic Establishment in Zanskar.
The monastery of Stongdey lies 18-km to the north of Padum, on the
road leading to Zangla. An old foundation associated with the
Tibetan Yogi, Marpa, Stongdey is now the second largest monastic
establishment of Zanskar, inhabited by the resident community of
about 60 Gelukpa monks.
The sprawling whitewashed complex has a number of temples, each a repository of the
region's rich monastic legacy. Foot can reach Stongdey in about 4 hours along the
recently laid rough road. The climb up to the monastery is rather strenuous, but it is worth
the trouble for the breathtaking scenery of the valley available from here.
HOW TO REACH THERE
The 240-km long Kargil-Padum road, of which the first 90-km stretch is paved, remains
opened from around mid July to early November. The J&K SRTC operates a thrice-
weekly bus services from Kargil. However groups can charter A-Class or even Super-
Deluxe buses to visit Zanskar, including the interior places of interest like Stongdey,
Zangla and Karsha. Jeeps and Gypsy taxis can also be hired at Kargil. During June and
early July, prior to opening of the road, it is recommended to walk into Zanskar from
Panikhar or Parkachik onwards. In June, the summer is at its height in the region and the
climate is ideal for trekking along the route free from vehicular traffic of any kind and
when the countryside is freshly rejuvenated into life after months of frigid dormancy.
WHERE TO STAY
course the guest is expected to compensate the monastery suitably
24
ZANGLA
Location: 35-km From Padum, In Zanskar Region of Ladakh, J&K
Altitude: 3,370m
Best Time To Visit: June to Early November
Lying deep in the northern arm of Zanskar at the end of the 35-km
long rough road from Padum, Zangla was being ruled by a titular
king till his death in 1989. The old castle now in ruins except from a
small chapel, occupies a hill, overlooking the desertic valley below.
Ladakh and Zanskar are famed for dogs, big and small, but nowhere
are there as many per family as in Zangla. They include some Courage lookalikes that
appear on the roof of one of the house of the king of Zangla. The old king, who was such
a delightful host to trekking parties, died in 1989.
Although for a century the king had held only a nominal title, his lineage can be traced
back to when the royal lineage in Zanskar was split. One side of the family ruled from
Padum, and the other from Zangla was able to reach an accord which allowed him to
retain a nominal rule over the nearby villages of Honia and Chazar, and the villages of
Hanumil, Pidmu and Pishu on the far side of the valley. The head monk at Spitok is
related to this family, and also administrators the Zangla monastery, which is on the cliff
just beyond the village.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Situated near to the ruined castle is the old Nunnery worth a visit for the austere life style
of the small monastic community of nuns. An old monastery situated in the nearby
village of Tsa-zar has exquisite frescos that shouldn't be missed. The village lies mid-way
between Stongdey and Zangla.
The Padum_Markha Valley Treks: Zangla is the nodal point on the popular Padum-
Strongdey-Zangla-Karsha-Padum round trip, which covers most of the cultural sites of
Zanskar. The old rope suspension bridge spanning the tumultuous Zanskar near Zangla -
a rare feat of folk engineering - is no more in use, but still visible. A temporary footbridge
for approaching the left bank, along which the trail to Karsha follows, now crosses the
river. Zangla is also the take-off point for the Padum-Markha valley treks.
HOW TO REACH THERE
thrice-weekly bus service from Kargil. However groups can charter A-Class or even
Stongdey, Zangla and Karsha. Jeeps and Gypsy taxis can also be hired at Kargil.
dormancy.
WHERE TO STAY
In Zangla accommodation can be sought from the villagers either on payment or in
exchange of a suitable gift. Some monasteries may also take in guests, through more as a
gesture of goodwill than on purely commercial consideration. Of course the guest is
expected to compensate the monastery suitably. There are well-furnished rooms also
25
available in the tourist Complex at Padum. There is catering arrangement in the complex,
while camping place nearby is available for budget tourists travelling with personal tents.
Padum town has several private hotels where rooms with basic facilities are available. At
Karsha dormitory accommodation is available in the newly build inn where basic
vegetarian food is also provided.
NEARBY CITIES
Padum: 35-km
Stongdey: 16-km
Karsha: 25-km
ZANSKAR
Location: 235-km From Kargil, Ladakh Region, J&K
Main Attractions: Panikhar, Panzela Pass, Karsha & Trekking
Best Time To Visit: July to October
The Virgin Vale: About 20-km south of Rangdum stands the Pazila watershed across
which lies Zanskar, the most isolated of all the trans Himalayan Valleys. The Panzela Top
(4,401-m) is the picturesque tableland adorned with two small alpine lakes and
surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
As the Zanskar road winds down the steep slopes of the watershed to the head of the Stod
Valley, one of Zanskar's main tributary valleys, the majestic "Drang-Drung" glacier
looms into full view. A long and winding river of ice and snow, the Drang-Drung" is
perhaps the largest glacier in Ladakh, outside the Siachen formation. It is from the cliff-
like snout of this extensive glacier that the Stod or Doda River, the main tributary of river
Zanskar, rises.
The Mountainous Panorama: Zanskar comprises a tri-armed valley system lying
between the Great Himalayan Range and the Zanskar mountain; The three arms radiate
star-like towards the west, north and south from a wide central expanse where the
region's two principal drainage's meet to form the main Zanskar River.
It is mainly along the course of this valley system that the region's 10,000 strong, mainly
Buddhists population lives. Spread over an estimated geographical area of 5,000-sq-kms,
high-rise mountains and deep gorges surround Zanskar. The area remains inaccessible for
nearly 8 months a year due to heavy snowfall resulting in closure of all the access passes,
including the Penzela.
Today, Zanskar has the distinction of being the least interfered with microcosms of
Ladakh, and one of the last few surviving cultural satellites of Tibet. Within the mountain
ramparts of this lost Shangri-La stand a number of ancient yet active monastic
establishments. Some of these religious foundations have evolved around remote
meditation caves believed to have been used by a succession of famous Buddhist saints
for prolonged meditation in pursuit of knowledge and enlightenment.
HISTORY
The Khampa, the nomadic shepherds who originally roamed the grazing pastures of the
Tibetan plateau, would have been familiar with the high passes into Zanskar many
centuries before the villages of the Zanskar or Indus valley were established.
In the 11th century, the eminent scholar Ringchen Brangpo wandered the Zanskar valley
selecting sites from the 108 monasteries that were to be found throughout the west
Himalayas. At the same time, legend has it that the sage Naropa meditated at the site of
Sani monastery.
26
The Advent of Foreign Travelers: The famous Hungarian explorer Coso de Koros was
one of the first European travelers to visit the region. He spent nearly a year, in 1826-27,
at the monastery of Phugthal translating Buddhist texts from Ladakhi into English. An
inscription of his name can be still found in the monastery.
Dogra Invasion: A few years later, the Dogra general Zorawar Singh led his army over
the Umasi La during the conquest of Ladakh and the Zanskar. In 1834 he reduced the
powers of the royal families in both Padum and Zangla to a nominal status and
established the fort at the village of Pipiting just north of Padum. He is also said to have
paid a small fortune to hire a local guide to lead his army directly across the passes of the
Zanskar Range to the Indus Valley in Order to mount a surprise attack on the king of
Ladakh.
The Dogra conquest was recorded by Thomas Thomson, a member of the East India
Company's Boundary Commission crossing the Umasi La in June 1848 en route through
the Zanskar and Indus Valleys to the Korakoram Pass.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Panikhar: On the route to Zanskar, Panikhar, which is commonly
considered to be on the border of the Suru Valley, is an important
place. There is a high pass between Panikhar and Sankoo, a
moderately sized valley about 42-km from Kargil, Ladakh. Zorawar
Singh and his forces entered Ladakh from the Suru Pass in 1832 en
route to conquer Tibet. He built a fort whose ruins stand to this day.
Penzella Pass: The Panzella Pass is situated at an elevation of more
than 4,200 m over the Zanskar range (Penzella mountains). It separates Zanskar from the
Suru valley and other parts of Ladakh. On either side of the pass there are camping
grounds used by migratory grazier communities and travelers. At the top, an enchanting
view of the surrounding ranges and countryside greets the visitor.
At the top of the pass, there are two springs of greenish water credited by legend to be the
birthplace of the progenitors of the famous Zanskar breed of ponies. Different forms of
vegetation come up around the pass soon after the snowmelts in summer. These include
many species, which have medicinal value. Marmots live in burrows, moving to lower
elevations in winter. The brown bear is also found on the slopes of the Penzela Pass.
The Penzela glacier, where the Suru River arises, is situated on one of the flanks of this
pass. On the Zanskar side, an extensive stretch of flat land is present at the foot of the
pass. It is dissected by a number of streams and supports reverie vegetation, which
becomes thick in summer. This is an ideal camping ground for graziers and trekkers.
The Penzela Pass remains open only from May to September, being closed for the rest of
the year due to heavy snowfall.
Karsha: Karsha is another large settlement across the river from Padam, at a distance of
about 8-km from the latter. It has a small market, school, dispensary and post and
telegraph facilities. There is also a monastery at Karsha, which is revered by the
population living in the surrounding region.
HOW TO REACH THERE
27
Stongdey, Zangla and Karsha. Jeeps and Gypsy taxis can also be hired at Kargil.
dormancy.
WHERE TO STAY
WHEN TO TREK
For most people, the timing of a trek out of Padum is determined by the opening of the
motorable road from Kargil over the Pentse La. The pass is normally cleared of snow by
the beginning of July, and generally remains open until the end of October.
The alternative is to trek from Panikhar or Rangdum over the Pentse La. This can be
completed in May, although it is advisable not to cross the high passes leading out of
Zanskar until the end of June. By this time the villagers begin to cross the Singge La, the
Umasi La and the Shingo La and Phitse La. These times should also be noted if one is
planning to trek into the Zanskar Valley from Lamayuru, Leh or Darcha. The passes
remain open until the middle of October, although freak storms in September have
occasionally required treks to be re-routed.
River crossings also need to be considered when planning a trek. In particular, the route
from Padum to the Markha valley follows gorges where the late spring snow melt makes
the rivers difficult to cross until August.
For the intrepid, there are winter trails linking the Zanskar valley with the Indus. From
late January through February, the villagers and monks follow the route over the snow
bridges that form in the depths of the gorges. When the ice begins to thaw, they follow a
route over the Cha La to the Khurna valley and then trek down to its confluence with the
Zanskar River. Here there are some places to ford the Zanskar River to reach Niimu and
Leh. The locals favor this route in the springtime, until the deep snows on the Pentse La
begin to thaw in May.
NEARBY CITIES
Karsha: 9-km
Stongdey: 20-km
Burdan: 10-km
Zongkhul: 20-km
Phukthal: 70-km
28
ZONGKHUL
Location: On Padum-Kishtwar Trek, In Zanskar Region of Ladakh, J&K
Main Attractions: Cave Monastery, Trekking
Best Time To Visit: July to Early November
A spectacular cave monastery of Zanskar, Zongkhul falls on the Padum-Kishtwar
trekking trail, just before the ascent of Omasi-la Pass begins.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Situated like a Swallow's nest on the rock face of the 'Ating George',
the monastery is associated by legend with the famous Indian Yogi,
"Naropa'', who lectured in the Nalanda and Vikramsila Universities.
The present cave monastery is said to be used by the famous Yogi for
the solitary meditation.
A footprint on the stone near the ingress of the lower cave is reserved as that of the yogi.
The frescos on the cave walls are very old and reflect a high degree of artistic
achievement. These are believed to be the original murals executed by Zhadpa Dorje, the
celebrated scholar-painter of the same monastery who was active about 300 years ago.
HOW TO REACH THERE
Strongdey, Zangla and Karsha. Jeeps and Gypsy taxis can also be hired at Kargil.
dormancy.
WHERE TO STAY
facilities are available. Accommodation is also available at the Karsha dormitory. In the
distant villages like Strongdey, Zangla, Sani, etc., accommodation can be sought from the
villagers either on payment or in exchange of a suitable gift. Some monasteries may also
take in guests, through more as a gesture of goodwill than on purely commercial
NEARBY CITIES
Zanskar: 20-km
Karsha: 11-km
29

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