ADVENTURES FROM THE SEWING STUDIO

Back to Basics - Seam Finishes

by Sharon Madsen
http://sharonsews.blogspot.com © 2008

I learned the importance of finishing seams many years ago when a cotton skirt I had spent hours sewing
came apart at the seams after a few washings. You see, no one had ever told me you needed to finish seams
when you sewed something. The pattern instructions I used certainly didn’t mention it.

Now, when I teach others to sew, one of the first things discussed is how to finish a seam edge. While different
fabrics will require different seam finishes, you’ll quickly discover your favorite

PINK OR STITCH AND PINK: ZIGZAG:

As simple as it sounds. Trim the edges of a seam
allowance with a pinking shear. To stitch and pink,
sew a line of straight stitches about 1/4” from the raw
edge. Trim close to the line of stitching with pinking
shears.
Using a medium zigzag stitch, zigzag close to the
raw edge and then trim close to the stitching. You can
zigzag each seam allowance separately, or zigzag the
seam allowances together and press to one side.

Pinked seam finish ZigZag seam finish

CLEAN-FINISH: Turn each raw edge under 1/4” and stitch in place.

Clean finish seam Clean finish seam

finish back side finish
 BIAS BINDING: HONG KONG SEAM FINISH:
Use a purchased single fold bias tape or make your • Use purchased one inch wide bias tape or make
own in a contrasting fabric. Encase the seams with your own in a contrasting fabric.
the bias binding and stitch in place. • Pin the bias tape to each raw edge (right sides
together) and stitch 1/8” from the edge.
• Press the bias tape flat - away from the seam al-
lowance.
• Turn the bias tape to the back side of the seam al-
lowance, encasing the raw edge, and press.
• On the top side of the seam allowance stitch in
Encase with bias the ditch (sew in the center of the seam of the bias
binding and stitch in tape and seam allowance).
place • Trim away any extra bias tape on the backside of
the seam allowance.

Stitch in the ditch

Bias bound seam

finish

Hong Kong seam

finish

For a good visual tutorial of a Hong Kong finish check

out www.burdastyle.com

Back to Basics - Seam Finishes

by Sharon Madsen - http://sharonsews.blogspot.com © 2008