CLOSE ENCOUNTERS - THE PALAU WAY

By Pauline and Mark Blasky

Unravel the mysteries of Palau as Pauline and Mark regale their land and diving and boating experiences respectively.

alau (known locally as Belau) is the western most territory in Micronesia and is part of the Carolines Islands. It consists of many islands and islets, the biggest being Babeldaob. Koror Island lies in the south, where most of Palaus downtown is located, and Malakal Island is where the commercial port and primary yacht anchorages are found. Sari Timur is anchored in front of Sams Tours / The Royal Belau Yacht Club, which is the primary yacht anchorage for most cruisers. Palaus early histor y is still a mystery but scientists believe that it was inhabited as early as 1,000 BC. The original settlers are likely to have come from Indonesia or perhaps the southern Philippines, a blend of Melanesian and Polynesian stock. Foreign governance of the islands officially began with Spain in 1885, followed by Germany, Japan and America. Following Japans defeat in WW2, the islands became United Nations Trust Territories under United States administration. In 1981, Palau adopted its own constitution and finally gained independence on October 1, 1994. History aside, the diving in Palau

is outstanding and from what weve seen so far, it has certainly become our favourite diving spot. Being situated at the western extreme of Micronesia means the islands are below the theoretical typhoon area and have warm, clear water with light winds all year. There is supposedly no off-season for diving here. As a result of an intense WW2 battle, Palau is the site of numerous shipwrecks and planewrecks after the removal of 66 wrecks from the harbour by salvage companies. Add to that, the allure of Palaus famous reefs, underwater wild life, and unique geographical features have given rise to names such as Blue Corner Blue , Hole Virgin Blue Hole Coral Gardens , , , Zeke Fighter Plane Jakes Sea Plane , Wreck Sunken Bridge and Devilfish , City One hotel brochure lists over . 50 dive sites and we hope to get in a good portion of them. To date, we have dived two wrecks, both of which are in excellent shape and loaded with marine life. Compared to our Philippines experience, theres better visibility here although the wrecks are a bit further apart probably due to the clearing. This means that wreck diving is done as part of the daily dive agenda either the first or second dive and is partnered with one of the other sites in the area. For example, a morning drift dive through the Ulong Channel and then, a postlunch dive at tanker Teshio Maru in 14-24 metres of water, or even a combi of both depending on currents.

We really enjoyed Siaes Tunnel, an underwater cavern, and as we drifted around Siaes Corner, we caught sight of the large number of sharks, barracuda, trevally and turtles. This was our first dive in Palau and we were hooked. Our other favourite spot was the German Channel area which had several blue holes (submerged caverns) teeming with pelagic fish and a multitude of reef fish with their fantastic colours and unique features. Sharks are a common sight because many years ago, Palau made its entire territorial waters a shark-protected area, resulting in a very healthy reef environment and a multitude of sharks. However, we did see our first leaf scorpion fish and crocodile fish in this area, but what was most exciting was our first close encounter with manta rays. Another dive we thoroughly enjoyed was the chambered nautilus dive. Although a little artificial as they set a trap and catch the nautilus the night before a dive and then release them while the divers are there it allowed us to get upclose and personal with these rare creatures and also allowed the nautilus to get a free dinner. Mandarin fish and Moorish Idols are very prevalent in Palau and we had seen these about 20 feet from where we tied our dinghy up. It was thrilling to watch two sharks working one of these Idols away from the school. As it tried to seek shelter near the reef, two interested morays got in on the action and seized the Idol. In a blink

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of an eye, a Napoleon Wrasse from above swooped down and stole the Idol right out of the morays mouth. Talk about lightning speed! True to its namesake, the freshwater Jellyfish Lake has thousands of jellyfish in it. However there are no predators about because the jellyfish have no stingers. We could snorkel right in the midst of them which was truly a unique experience. On land, we went to the Aimeliik Bai (a bai is a meeting house for men only) and along the way, we saw the prehistoric terraces and the Ngardmau Waterfall. It was well worth the trek, mud, sweat and all. Since then, they have installed a tram system to bring visitors to the falls so they neednt walk. We drove to Ngarchelong at the northern end of Babeldaob Island, most noted for Palaus archaeological site of Badrulchau. Here you can see stone-face monoliths over a 5-acre area with some dating back to 161 AD. However the climate had taken a toll on them as they are eroding to the point of being unrecognisable. We also visited the Mother and Child stone, where legend has it that a curious woman along with her child, stole a look into a mens bai and both were turned into stone. The rest of our agenda included a drive to Melekeok, where the new but huge Capitol Building stands; a pre-WW2 ruin of a pineapple factory operated by the Japanese, and a day tour to Peleliu, an island at the southernmost end of

Palaus huge barrier reef. Peleliu was the location of some of the fiercest fighting during WW2s Pacific War. Underground forts and caves were sealed off when the Japanese soldiers refused to surrender. Japanese and American memorials are found all over the island, plus old tanks, engines and other war debris rusting away. Must-sees are the landing strip, Bloody Nose Ridge, Orange Beach, the Japanese Military Headquarters, the Japanese Shrine, the WildCat Monument, Japanese Peace Memorial Park, 81st Infantry Division memorial and 1,000-men Cave So . named because it was believed that 1,000 Japanese soldiers were inside the cave when the Americans sealed it. Seeing is believing and a trip to Palau is certainly worth a visit.

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