Getu valley

guidebook

DON'T LISTEN TO THE ONE WHO KNOWS THE WAY: YOU WOULD miss out on... tHE CHANCE TO GET LOST !

Key
N w S E

Aspect

Height (in meters) of the longest route at the cliff. Choose the appropriate rope length.

Number of quickdraws needed for the longest route at the cliff.

Estimated approach time to hike to the base of the cliff from Getu Village center.

E ON Z

A
h Cr ag
t re ga rd en sec

fis

Le

ft

r of

ed

GETU HE
ve s ca wan Wa rag rs c e oliv rag an c am rast

MIAO SWORD

te whi Puss n a Ya

cra

cmdi wall

gs yan Ban e cav

LAZy dragons cave

lower

w S

great arches ChuanShang

cave

Buddha Cave

N
E

ZONE B

ZONE C

Original drawing by Andy Hedesh

zone

fish crag left of red wawan's cave oliver's crag rastaman crag

VERY IMPORTANT : GETU is a brand new climbing area located in a very active natural environment. In spite of the work of the route setters, these cliffs still contain dusty and/or loose holds. Keep this in mind as you move about from one new climb to another. Think about your fellow climbers. While descending the route, remove chalk marks and any loose or bothersome vegetation. Report any climbing safety issues to the organizers or other event staff. Only attempt to fix the problem if you feel that you have the skills and know-how to do so. You are not only responsible for your own safety while climbing but also responsible for the safety of those climbing below you or wandering about at the base of the cliffs. WEAR A HELMET as climber AND belayer! TAKE GRADES with CAUTIOUNESS!

GETU /

fish crag

left of red

fish crag

For any climber thats had the opportunity to climb at Fish Crag, its love at first sight. Fish Crag is pretty much the perfect cliff, the one that everyone wants in their own backyard. Spectacular, bulletproof yellow limestone lined with blue striations, sculpted to perfection During the drilltrip, everyone wanted to put up their own route! Located just above a recently abandoned farming village, the cliffs base is decorated with paintings (including the famous Fish) and poems written in calligraphy. The area definitely has a special charm which deserve to be fully respected. Left of Red is a cliff under development where, in 2008, Oliver Balma and a few guides in training opened a handful of moderate 5c to 6b routes The cliff still has a lot of potential affirms Olivier.

Fish Crag ....... Left of Red 2008Oliver Balma 5c-6b.......Olivier

Fish Crag Tom Collet Gambei,8a At Fish Crag, Tom Collet crimps down on his own Gambei, 8a

1 Run On 2 Darker Days 3 Wok On The Wild Side 4 Hua Hua (Painted Flower) 5 Le Gnral Arrive Pied par la Chine 6 Gambei 7 Corazon de Melao 8 Les Boules de Geisha

6c 7b 7b 7b 7b 7c+ 7b+ 7c

Gavin Symonds Gavin Symonds Andy Long Toni Arbons Tom Collet Tom Collet Yann Ghesquiers Yann Ghesquiers

fish

crag

9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Wild Horses Hallowed Ground Qing Mingjie (Tomb Sweeper) Pysgodyn Fawr (The Big Fish) Spellbowner ? Wonce Up Bossa Sun On

7b 6b 6c+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a 6c

Gavin Simonds Andy Long Andy Long Andy Long Gavin Symonds Gavin Symonds Gavin Symonds

7b+ 7c+ 7b 7b 7b 7b 7c 7b 6c+

7a+ 7a+

7a 6c
15

6b

6c
16 Secret Garden 7b
17 Running on Empty 7b+ 18 Whan Bam boo 7a+

3 4

56

10

13 11 12

14

50 m on the right

N w S E

S-S-E

35 m

15

35 min

LEFT OF RED
30 min 12 30 m
N w S E

At Fish Crag, Mm reaches for good pocket, HuaHua, 7b

S
6b
5c+ 6a 6a 6a+ 6b 6b+ 6c CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI Clean Heel 12 draws

1 Zuo Bian Di Yi 2 Er (Two) 3 San (Three) 4 Si (Four) 5 Wu (Five) 6 Liu (Six) 7 Qi (Seven)

5c+

CMDI P1 P2 P3 P4

80 m 5c+ 6a 5c 6b

6a

5c+
1

6a

6a

6b 6a+
5

2 3

6b+

5c+ 6c

wawan's cave
Wawans Cave is a short, colorful, easy to get to cliff, with an extremely overhanging, pocket-filled section on the left, and a nightmarishly crimpy, (slightly) less steep wall on the right. When approaching or at the base of the cliff, be careful not to trample the very meticulously tended to vegetable gardens.

N w S E

30 m

12

25 min

7a+
3

Wawans

Cave

7b+

7a

7b 7a+

1 2
1 Mange tes Nouilles 2 Le Retour du Couscous 3 Plus de Riz Caca Dur 4 La Bouze Tom 5 Le Retour du Pouss-Pouss 6 Ha ! les Filles de Guiyang 7 L'Emois du Vlo Chinois 8 Kung Fu Klimbing 9 Le Retour du Baijo 7a 7a+ 7b+ project 7b 7a+ 6b 6c+ 6c+ Mm Mimouse Mm Tom Collet Mm Mimouse Yann Estienne Mimouse Mimouse

6b 6c+ 8?
4 5 6 7 8 9

6c+

At Wawans Cave, Yann Estienne uses one of the protrusions on Retour du Couscous, 7b+, as best he can to rest in order to figure out the upcoming sea of pockets. After pulling off a protrusion, he realized that expansion bolts wont work in it: the rock is like chalk! Esetienne Wawans Cave Retour du Couscous, 7b+ Yann

Oliver's crag

7b+ 7c 7a 6b 7a+ 6b+

Olivers Crag is one of the most clearly visible cliffs in Getu He. Located right next to the river and the road, it was one of the first cliffs to be bolted by Olivier Balma and the CMDI trainees; high-quality rock strewn with pockets and cracks. Routes like Si are world-class, and two variations to the starts of Liu and Qi have yet to be sent.
N w S E

6b
9

Olivers Crag Olivier BalmaCMDI Si Liu( )Qi()

? 8?
3 4 5
6 7 8

6a+

7a

6c

10 11

12

13 & 14. 5b/c. 20m to the right

25 m

12
6b+ 7c 7b 6c+/7a 7a/+ project

20 min
O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Qi (Seven) Ba (Eight) Jiu (Nine) Shi (Ten) Shi Yi (Eleven) Shi Er (Twelve) Shi San (Thirteen) Shi Si (Fourteen)

project 6b 6b/+ 6a/+ 7a 6c 5b/c 5b/c

O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI Jack / CMDI Jack / CMDI

1 2 3 4 5 6

Zuo Bian Di Yi (First from Left) Er (Two) San (Three) Si (Four) Wu (Five) Liu (Six)

Rasta man crag

It took a healthy imagination to envision such amazing rock hidden behind a forest of ivy! Jah Know Star, 6c+ Jah Know Star 6c+

Steph Rasta Man Husson climbs up the prow of his very own Zion, 6c+ Steph HussonRasta ManZion6c+

It took both nerves of steel and a lot of experience to imagine that this hidden jewel of a cliff was at the far end of the canyon. Stephane Husson has a healthy dose of both. He developed the ivy covered cliff all by his lonesome; in the evenings the twinkle in his eye and his wily smile made us suspect that Steph had something exciting up his sleeve Rastaman Crag has a dozen or so magnificent, steep, pocketed lines: great moves at a moderate grade. Overall, a not-to-be-missed crag if you climb 6c!

Stephane

Husson

.......

Rastaman Crag
6c .......

rastaman crag

6b+

6c+

7b+

N w E S

5c+ 6b
5c+

S-E

38 m 14
6c+

20 min
6c

5
5

&2

10 m on the left, same start 1 So Mi Go So Dem 2 One Blood 3 Lord Have Money 4 One Love 6b+ 6a+ 6b 6b+ 5c/6a S. Husson S. Husson S. Husson S. Husson S. Husson 6 Give Thank n' Praise 7 Zion 8 I&I 9 Jah Know Star 6c 6c+ 7b+ 6c+

6
S. Husson S. Husson S. Husson S. Husson

9 7 8

rastaman crag

5 Babylon

zone

pussa yan White crag CMDI wall - Cmdi crags Banyang's cave Lazy dragon cave

REMEMBER : Most of these crags are surrounded by fields that feed the families of local farmers. This valley only just recently opened to climbing and to foreign tourists. You are part of the very first group of climbers to come here, so please be on your best behavior and set the example for future groups of climbers to follow. Respecting the local inhabitants and their way of life should be your first priority. NEVER CROSS a CULTIVATED FIELD, USE the TRAILS! TAKE AWAY AND CLEAN 100% OF YOUR WASTE, USE TOILETS!

pussa yan
Pussa Yan means Mother Superior Protector in the Miao dialect. This lovely, 180 meter high, triangular-shaped cliff owes its name to the huge detached flake that leans against the main cliff and that, depending on the light, looks like a woman dressed in traditional clothing. Up until April 2011 this wall had never been climbed when French climbers Daniel Dulac and Jean-Luc Jeunet bolted, ground up, a superb and consistent line: Le Casse-Tte Chinois. We could wrack our brains trying to figure out the origins of this mysterious name, but theres no doubt that the next few climbers to repeat this line will have more than they need to challenge both their mental fortitude and their forearm strength. Although the approach trail is obvious, the descent is not. The rappels from the top of P5 are a challenge, so its best to follow Daniels recommendation: From the summit, continue along the ridgeline for roughly 70 m until you reach a cairn. Descend left, leaving the cairn to your right. Further down, remain on the left flank of a small rocky notch (two cairns) in order to reach the Cypress forest. Traverse the forest, heading towards CMDI Wall, to link up with the main trail. Be careful in wet conditions, the descent is pretty steep.

Le casse-tETE CHINOIS

Pussa Yan 180 20115 Daniel Dulac Jean-Luc Jeunet Le Casse-Tete Chinois 5 Daniel 70m CMDI
N w S E

7a 6c 7a 6c

6c

Pussa crag

6c

Le Casse-tte Chinois Pussa Crag oct. 2011

...Clothilde Pattein 15 / Daniel Du Lac 20 m Steeper is Better Rock Fascination 6a+ 6a+ Petzl Team : ZaZa 10 draws Guy Abert, ... max Lesson One Slab Beginning Super Crack Ready for More? Magic Chimney Magic Variation 4b 5a 6c 6c+ 5a 5b

180 m 14 draws max 6c 6c 6c 7a 6c 7a

Daniel Dulac Jean-Luc Jeunet P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6

La Rampe Guy P1 5b La Rampe Guy P2 5b Zats Hole Folks ! 6b Surprise to the End 5c+

S-W

35 min

White Crag
1 2 3 4 5 Zuo Bian Di Yi (First from Left) Er (Two) San (Three) Si (Four) Wu (Five) Liu (Six) Qi (Seven) Ba (Eight) Jiu (Nine) Shi (Ten) Shi Yi (Eleven) Shi Er (Twelve) 5c/6a 5c/6a 5c/6a 5c/6a 6a 6b 7a project 6b 6a+ 5c/6a 5c/6a O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI

Cm

di

al

8 9 10 11 12

7a
Bolted in 2008 by Olivier Balma and the CMDI trainees, this charming little crag is composed of high-quality, pocket-covered rock. There are a number of easy to moderate routes. The 5c+ routes on the outer limits of the crag zigzag between the trees, whereas the lines that head up the yellow-colored rock in the center are steeper and more sustained. Most are superb routes for the style and grade. Take note that one of the routes had yet to see a first free ascent when this guidebook was written.

White Crag2008Olivier Balma CMDI

5c+

6a

6b

5c+ 5c+ 5c+ 5c+

5c+ 5c+ 6b 6a+

11 10 12

2 3 4 5 6 7

N w S E

S-W

30 m

12

30 min

cmdi
zone A
fish crag
secret garden

wall
CMDI wall
White crag Cmdi crags

pussa yan oliver's crag wawan's cave rastaman crag

descend W face

left of red

To Banyang's cave

getu river

CMDI Wall is a wild sector that will surely delight those climbers with and adventurous spirit. Oliver Balma discovered this cliff in 2007: I was looking for something of considerable height but not too steep so that the CMDI trainees would be able to put up long, multi-pitch routes of reasonable difficulty. This 200 m high wall proved ideal! Out of respect for the local populations the vegetation was left as is. This might surprise certain foreign climbers more accustomed to cleaned cliffs. At the

base three cragging areas were developed, allowing those who prefer one-pitch over multipitch climbs to enjoy the area. In the spring of 2011, Daniel Du Lac, seeking an adventure, bolted ground-up, without fixed ropes, a more difficult line christened Captain Hook, in honor of a memorable 20 meter fall when, on P4, his hook popped just as he was hammering in a bolt. All passengers please fasten your harnesses and your helmet chin straps to prepare for immediate takeoff!

CMDI

Wall
Balma2007 2 0 1 1 D a n i e l

Oliver D u L a c C a p t a i n CMDI Hook 200 20

P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6 P7 P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6 P7 P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6 P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6 P7 P1 P2 P3 P4

6b+ 6b+ 6b+ 7a 7a 7b 7a 4c 5c 6b+ 6a+ 6a+ 6c+ 4c 5b 5c 5a 5a 6a 5a 4c 6b 5b/c 5b/c 6a+ 6a+ 5b/c 6a 6b+ 6a+ 6a+

A - Captain Hook Daniel Du Lac / Andy Hedesh

Multi-pitch sport route, entirely bolted, rappel the route or possible descend via CMDI Walls North ridge.

w S

S-W

7a

cmdi wall
A helmet is strongly recommanded for multipitch routes

200 m 15 35 min
N

P4bis 7b+

7b

4c

5a 5b+ 6a+ 6a+

B - No Name O. Balma / CMDI

Multi-pitch sport route, entirely bolted, rappel the route or possible descend via CMDI Walls North ridge.

w S

S-W

7a 6c+

6A

180 m 14 35 min
N w S E

7a

7b+

5a 6a+ 6a+ 5b+

6a+

C - Blue Spirit CMDI

Multi-pitch sport route, entirely bolted, rappel the route or possible descend via CMDI Walls North ridge.

S-W

6b+ 6b+ 6a+ 5a 5b+

180 m 12 35 min

6b+
D - Wood Cutter O. Balma / CMDI
Multi-pitch route. Partially bolted! Use a set of nuts & friends Rappel Bleu Spirit or possible descend via the CMDI Walls North ridge.
N w S E

5c 6b+ 6b

S-W

6a

160 m 12 35 min
N w S E

6b+ 5c+ 5c+ 5c+ 5c+

5 6 7 8

5b

5c
c

4c
e d

Easy, multi-pitch sport route, entirely bolted, rappel the route or possible descend via CMDI Walls North ridge.

E - Bee Hive CMDI

S-W

12 140m 35 min

4c
b

cmdi crags

6b+ 7b+

10 9

See photo on preceding page

1 2 3 4
7a

Zuo Bian Di Yi Er (Two) San (Three) Si (Four) Go Japan Wudong Noodles Potato Salad Red Pants Jiu (Nine) Shi (Ten)
N

7a 7b 6c 6a 5c 5c 6a 6a 7b+ 6b+

CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI CMDI

Banyangs Cave, Michal Fuselier play in his Axel Balay friends favorite BipBip & Coyote 8b

5
7b 6c

6 7
6a

8 9 10

w S

30 m

14

35 min

banyang's cave

Its Rwang, the energetic Getu Park ranger, who showed Erwan Le Lann this cave sitting a few hundred meters above the village of Banyang. In the fall of 2010 Erwan, Sebastien Foissac, and Martial Dumas were the first to start putting up routes at this cliff. The following spring talented French climbers Axel Balay and Michal Fuselier completed development of the area, which now includes roughly 20 climbs ranging from 6a to 8b+. The cliff has two distinct styles of climbing: the left section is extremely overhanging, highly featured rock, but starting with the 9th route Six Months Work, the cliff becomes an overhanging crimpfest. The far right side of the cliff offers more moderate routes. In general routes are at least 30 meters long, although some are as long as 40 meters. Approach the area from the north via the road by traversing Banyang Village, or from the south by crossing a small notch east of CMDI Wall.

Erwan Le LannBanyang 2010 Erwan, Sebastien Foissac Martial Dumas Axel BalayMichael Fuselier 206a8b+ Six Months Work 3040 Banyang CMDI Wall

Banyangs Cave, Michael Fuselier dyno Kung Fu Panda8b+ Banyangs Cave, right side, Michal Fuselier dynos and gets the first send of his own little masterpiece Kung Fu Panda, 8b+

banyang's
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Abond route Calf Flying Tufa King Cobra Queen Cobra Confidence Free Max Can't Stop Rock'n Roll Six Months Work Loco de Noodles 6b+ 8a 7c 7b+ 7c 7a 7c 7c+ 8a? 8a Abond Abond Ghesquiers/Mm Seb Foissac Seb Foissac Andrew Hedesh Martial Dumas Martial Dumas Erwan KoB Le Lann Axel Ballay

cave
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Bip Bip et Coyote Ki Di Buzz Treblinka pour Diego Kung Fu Panda MmFukushima Fleur de Lotus Hao Yan Naughty Papy Le Lotus Bleu 8b 8a/8a+ 8b 8b+ 7a 6c 6b+ 6b 6a Axel Ballay Mickal Fuselier M. Fuselier/A. Ballay Mickal Fuselier Axel Ballay Mickal Fuselier Axel Ballay M. Fuselier/A. Ballay Mickal Fuselier

8a 8b 8a 8a 7c+ 8a? 7c 6b+

1 12

8b
13

6c 7a 6b+ 8b+

7c+

7b+

7c
7a

8a

4 5

7c

8?

2 3

7 8

10

11

6b

6a

14
N w S E

S-W

40 m

15

35 min

15 16 17 18 19

Lazy dragon's cave

Located less than 100 meters from the center of Getu, Lazy Dragons Cave was first bolted in April 2011 by the Spanish dream team consisting of Dani Andrada, Tony Arbons, Oliver Lavoisey, and Andoni Perez. They put up difficult technical climbs composed primarily of slopers and pockets on the yellowish-brown wall along the rivers right bank. Not too long after, the trio Jean-Luc Jeunet, Andy Hedesh, and Eben Farnworth expanded the area by putting up a series of superb moderate routes on the black sculpted limestone along the left bank. The approach, even when it isnt right along a river that often experiences violent floods, is complicated, with many route starts using fixed ropes. Not a climbing area for the light hearted to say the least.

Lazy Dragons Cave

10020115 Dani Andrada,

Tony Arbones, Oliver Lavoisey, Andoni Perez,

J ean-Luc Jeunet,

Andy Hedesh, Eben Farnworth

Oliver Lavoisey sends the pocketed RimRim,6c+

Oliver Lavoisey RimRim,6c+

Dani Andrada climbs Technique de Peter Pan, one of his new 7b+ routes. Dragon, yes, lazy, no.

Dani Andrada Technique de Peter Pan7b+

Lazy dragon's cave

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Spiderman Returns Hunny Hunter P1 Hunny Hunter P2 Sunshine Day Dream P1 Sunshine Day Dream P2 Yixin Yiyi P1 Yixin Yiyi P2 Bambu P1 Bambu P2 6c 5a 6b 7a 7a 7a 7a 6c 8a Andy Hedesh Eben Farnworth Eben Farnworth Andy Hedesh Andy Hedesh Eben Farnworth Eben Farnworth Jean-Luc Jeunet Jean-Luc Jeunet
N w S E

6c+ 7a+ ? ? 14 12 8b
18

14 30 m 5 min

7a

left side

right side
7b+

7a

7a
7

6b
5 3

17
8a

7a 6c

7a

6c+
9

10 11
7a 5a 6c

10 Shepi (Snake Skin) 11 Huan Ying Lai Dao Zhunguo 12 Buyao La Jiao (No Spicy) 13 Rim Rim P1 14 Rim Rim P2

7a

Toni Arbons

7a+ T. Arbons/O. Lavoisey ? ? 7a 8b Toni Arbons D. Andrada/T. Arbons D. Andrada/A. Perez D. Andrada/A. Perez

13

15

6c+ D. Andrada/T. Arbons

2 1

15 La Calavera P1
6
8

16 La Calavera P2 17 La Tecnica de Peter Pank 18 Hasta la Campanilla

7b+ Dani Andrada 6c+ A. Perez/O. Lavoisey

zone

C
Flag Cliff buddha cave scholl time great arch left side great arch right side great arch multi-pitch routes miao sword

A magical ray of light pierces ChuanShangs Great Arch A wellknown image in China. Photo by Erwan Le Lann

zone C

great arch
sch oo l t ime bud dha cav e

multi-pitch routes

great arch right

g Fla

great arch left

AP PR OA CH st ep s

flag Cliff
1 2 Red Flag P1 Red Flag P2 White Flag Black Flag Pee Joy 6a 7a+ 6b+ 6b+ 6a+ A. Long / G. Symonds A. Long / G. Symonds A. Long / G. Symonds A. Long / G. Symonds Marcos Costa

People often think of themselves as being the first to do something and have the unfortunate tendency to forget those who came before them. Flag Cliff, bolted by Andy Long and Gavin Symonds, will serve as a reminder to future climbers who come to Getu that, prior to the wave of development in 2010 and 2011, others climbed these cliffs, sometimes in a surprising manner. Was it Spiderman who planted his red flag high up the wall (on Red Flag)? For a competition that took place in the early 2000s, a route using indoor climbing holds was put up just to the left. Today the area offers long, superb, moderate face routes. Andy LongGavin Symonds Flag Cliff 20102011 (Red Flag) 2000

3 4 5
N w S E

40 m

18

30 min

plastic route

buddha cave

7a+ 6b+
2

6a 6b+

6a

Gavin Symonds sends the 65 meter high Red Flag, 7a+

Gavin Symonds 65 Red Flag,7a+

4 1 3

Buddha Cave
This beautiful statue of Buddha, sitting cross-legged in his cave, inspires meditation, relaxation, and compassion towards all living beings. It reminds us that if in general religion is not a simple affair, in China it is particularly complex. Genevive Clastres, a French ethnologist and Ghuizhou specialist: There is no religion in China. Confucianism? A philosophy. Taoism? Popular beliefs and superstitions established as a moral code. Buddhism? A way of life that did not, in fact, originate in China. There is no religion in China other than perhaps the various faiths of the working-class that divide each region, each canton, and each ethnic group into a collection of belief systems and philosophies whose doctrines have been so mixed together that each individual honors their own warrior, their own genie, their own god With regard to rock climbing, only the right and left entrances to the cave have been bolted. The roof and the back of the cave, in spite of the beautifully colored and sculpted rock, have yet to be developed, mostly likely due to, according to Dani Andrada, the fact that the rock is of mediocre quality at best. The left side was bolted first, in 2010, with four very difficult routes. The right side went through two waves of development. According to Toni Arbons, who knows a thing or two about putting up routes, these four-star routes are much more popular. Genevieve Clastres: ....

Buddha Cave Dani Andrada 2010 Toni Arbones

Toni Arbons works out the moves on his most recent creation Fei, Fly, Vola, 8a

Toni Arbones Fei,Fly,Vola 8a

7c
4

8a 7b 7a+

8b+ 7c+ 8c+ 7a

5 3 1 2

7b

7a+

Buddha Cave left side

1 2 3 4 5
N w S E

10 11

8 9

Going with Buddha Brutal Style Possible not Possible Possible not Possible extension Surprise Rice

7c+ 8c+? 7a ? 8b+

Guido Unterwurzacher Dani Andrada Dani Andrada Dani Andrada Dani Andrada 6 7 8 9 10 11

Buddha Cave right side

Rumble in the Jungle No More Baijo Polo in the sky Back to the Technology Fei Fly Vola Sense sol 7b+ 7a+ 7c 7b 8a 7a+ Gerhard Hrhager Gerhard Hrhager Seb Foissac Toni Arbons Toni Arbons Toni Arbons

WNW

30 m

14

35 min

school time
School Time, as the name indicates, is a crag with a handful of moderate routes that utilize the grey, feature slabs just before the left entrance to the Great Arch.
N w S E

8a+ 7c+ 7c+/8a

25 m
6a 6c 6b 6b 6c+

13

40 min
Gavin Symonds Andy Long Andy Long Toni Arbons Toni Arbons Andrew Hedesh

1 2 3 4 5 6

Bird Song Razorlight Blade Runner School Time Xuexiao No Disrespect

8b+
Nihao Wokepa! Toni Arbons / Marcos Costa P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 Corazon de Ensueno Dani Andrada P1 P2 P3 180 m. 15 draws max 6c+ 7c+ 7c 7a+ 7c/8a 240 m. 15 draws max 8a+ 8b 7c+ 7a 8b+ 8c 7c+/8a 8a+
6b+

7a+

Elephant Song Da Xiang Ge 7a

8c

7c

6c+ 7a

7c+

B
6c+
Corazon de Ensueno For lower section, see after: Great Arch Left Side

6b 6a 6c

6b
5

P4 P5 P6 P7 P8

A
Nihao wokepa!

4 2 3

sc
1

ho

ol

tim

PETZL/Lafouche

Marcos CostaToni ArbonesNihao Wokepa,7a+4 100 .....Marcos A-MAZ-ING! Marcos Costa and Toni Arbons lost in a sea of stalactites on the 4th pitch of Nihao Wokepa, 7a+. Imagine this photo in 3D to begin to understand what its like to climb 100 meters off the ground through this overhanging maze Note the bamboo belay seat that allow Marcos to belay comfortably. Photo by Lafouche

great

arch !

ChuanShang ! Youve now entered the heart of the temple, the cathedral, the holiest of holies. Everything here is extreme, unusual, incredible: the difficulty, the holds, the atmosphere, the light, the vegetation A natural object of curiosity, a geological phenomenon that has become a tourist attraction; Getus Great Arch is a not-to-be-missed experience. Even the Sun god himself joins the party in the morning, his rays shining brightly through the arch. The climbing here is demanding, often puzzling, but always technical and aesthetic. More than one hundred pitches from 5c to 9a just waiting to be climbed, just waiting to be honored

Great

Arch () Yann Ghesquiers

Poweder Finger,8b

..... 100 5c9a

Olivier Lavoisey
5 times Sta Linya Meme Autochtono,7c+ Left, Yann Ghesquiers sends Powder Finger, 8b. Above, Olivier Lavoisey on 5 times Sta Linya. Below, Mm making a clip on Autochtono, 7c+

great arch
N w S E

left side
Abond Andoni Perez D. Dulac / JL. Jeunet D. Dulac / JL. Jeunet Dani Andrada Dani Andrada Dani Andrada Guido Unterwurzacher Gerhard Hrhager Gerhard Hrhager D. Andrada/Y. Ghesquier 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Nudel Power Skype Forever Business in China Autochtono Australian Supermarket Dunman La Piscineta Cina Alta Compresion SAR or die Ain't no Sunshine Se Souvenir des Belles Choses Kan Bu Dong Variation 6a+ 5c 6a+ 7c+ 8b? 7a 7b+ 8b 6a+ 8a 6b+ 7a ? A. Perez/O. Lavoisey A. Perez/O. Lavoisey Dani Andrada Toni Arbons Guido Unterwurzacher Duncan Dani Andrada A. Perez/O. Lavoisey A. Perez/O. Lavoisey Gerhard Hrhager Serge Casteran Aleksendra Przybysz Aleksendra Przybysz

1 2

Abond route Mi cosita Meona extension P2 extension P3

8a 7a 8a+ 8a+ 6c 8a+ 7a+ 8b 8b+ 8c+ 9a

30 m
3

La Rubia Flaca P1 La Rubia Flaca P2 5 times Sta Linya Lost in China Powder Finger Polvo Tecnico

15
4

45 min

5 6

Powder Finger extension 8c+ 6 Coup de Bambou

7a
7c+
8a+

A Nihao Wokepa ! B Corazon de Ensueno

8a+ 8b
8a+

8b? 6b+ 8a
12

7c+

6c 6c+ 8a 7a 7a+

7c+

8c+
9a? 8c+

8a 8b

7c+ 6a+ 5c 8c
11

6a+

8b
17 18
19 20

8b+

7a+ 7b+ 6a+

2
A

9a

34 B 5 6

6bis

8 9

10

13

14 15

16

great arch
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Everybody catch a cold Full Body Massage Go to Hell Chrie Chrie Chrie Chrie P2 left Chrie Chrie P2 right Spicy Breakfast Chinese Men Elodie 6c 7b 6c 6b 6b 6c 7a 5a 6b 6b 7a 7b Erwan Le Lann Martial Dumas
N w S E

right side
entrance

6b+ Erwan Le Lann Martial Dumas Martial Dumas Martial Dumas Seb Foissac Seb Foissac Seb Foissac Gerhard Hrhager Seb Foissac Martial Dumas Seb Foissac

30 m

15

45 min

6b+ Seb Foissac

10 Mateo Traverse 11 Nioutou 12 King of Guano 13 Candide 14 Capucine

right side exit

central

7b+
6b 6b+ 7c+ 7c+ 6c

8b+ 7a

7a

6c

7b

6b
6b 6b 6b+

13 14
5a

6a
15 16 17 18 19

12 11

20

21

C 22

5 6
7a

10

9
6c

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Sushisson Dragon Bolt Z J'ai Vol mon Ame un Clown Chinese Girl Drill Team Patate Douce Dancing with the Dust Ceramic House P1- Lost in Translation 7b+

6b 6c

Gilles Crenn Gilles Crenn

6c 6c 7b 6b+ 4 3

6b+ S. Casteran / Gilles Crenn 7c+ Serge Casteran 7c+ Serge Casteran 7a 6a Arnaud Petit Aleksendra Przybysz 8b+ Stphanie Bodet

Stphanie Bodet / Arnaud Petit

great

arch ...

multi-pitch

routes !

! ! Dani Andrada Andrada Corazon de Ensueno Daniel DulacLa Voie du Milieu, Stphanie BodetAunaud Petit Lost in Translation,Yann GhesquierTom ColletBrazilian Fuse,

BRUTAL ! INHUMANO ! Dani Andrada, a climber who ordinarily keeps his emotions to himself, is unable to find the words to express his enthusiasm for Great Archs exceptional potential. With brilliance and audacity Andrada rivals Daniel Dulacs La Voie du Milieu, Stphanie Bodets and Arnaud Petits Lost in Translation, Yann Ghesquiers and Tom Collets Brazilian Fuse, by putting up Corazon de Ensueno, perhaps the most overhanging route in the world Enjoy!

multi-pitch
Lost in Translation S. Bodet A. Petit P1 P2 P3 P4 180 m. 16 draws max 7b+ 7c+ 8a/+ 8a/+ The Brazilian Fuse 180 m.

routes
Dos Forasteros en la Selva O. Lavoisey A. Perez P1 P2 P3 P4 180 m. 14 draws max 6c+ 6c+ 6c 6b+

great arch right side

A helmet is strongly recommended for multipitch routes !
Dos forasteros 4..
DESCENT: 4 RAPPELS DOWN DOS FORASTEROS WHILE WAITING FOR SOMETHING BETTER

T. Collet 14 draws Y. Ghesquiers max P1 P2 P3 P4 6b+ 7a+ 6c+ 7b

C- Lost in Translation The first route put up in the fall of 2010. A spectacular and challenging line. Repeated by Yann Ghesquiers and Dani Andrada in the spring of 2011, a masterpiece so were told. 2010 Yann GhesquiersDani Andrada 2011 .

D- The Brazilian Fuse Named because of Marcos Costa, who daringly jugged the fixed lines left by his predecessors. An outstanding route for the grade, it should become a classic. Marcos Costa

E- Dos Forasteros en la Selva A big thanks to the first ascensionists for putting up a route for the average mortal climber. With a consistent rating from bottom to top, this is an outstanding climb.

8a/+

8a/+

7b

`6b+

7c+

6c+

6c

6c+

7b+

GREAT arch r ight

c

7a+

`6b+

6c+

On the second pitch of Brazilian Fuse, 7a+, wildly exposed from the start!

buddha cave
N w S E

La voie du milieu
La Voie du Milieu, like the neighboring Corazon de Ensueno, is a unique route The name refers to Zhonghua, or Middle Empire says Daniel Dulac. The exposure here is mind-blowing, dizzying enough to even scare me, to cause me to double-check at every maneuver. I left a two-person bamboo belay seat at anchors 3, 4 and 6. Even after spending more than four days to finally complete the route, I never got used to the exposure! When I got back down I was so exhausted and disoriented that I experienced ground-sickness for about an hour! Access: Get dropped off 70 m from the platform on the right bank, and then easily scramble to a small ledge in order to reach a 12mm bolt 2-3 meters above the water depending on river level. Descent: by Get back Home. Handrail up top leads to the plateau. I used a machete to cut a passageway between The Brazilian Fuse and the orange-colored rock walls to the right. The last day I descended in three-anda-half rappels to the right. This rappel line needs to be cleaned, but is otherwise reliable (dotted red line). I finished in a bit of a haste and, at sunset, ended up having to swim back since the other Spidermen with the raft were apparently not going to come back to get me. We all had a good laugh building the makeshift raft in order to ferry haul bags and ropes.

La Voie du MilieuCorazon de
Ensueno...... ,Daniel Dulac 3,4,6 4
6b+ 6b

7b+

8a+

7a+/a0

70 12mm 23

6a

8a+
6c+/a0

8b+

6b

Brazilian Fuse
F- La Voie du Milieu Daniel Du Lac P1 - 15 m - 6 b. 250 m. 20 draws 6b

8a+

P2 - 35 m - 15 b. 6c P3 - 50 m - 20 b. 8a+ P4 - 25 m - 10 b. 8b+ P5 - 30 m - 9 b. 8a+ P6 - 50 m - 19 b. 8a+ P7 - 25 m - 10 b. 7b+ P8 - 25 m - 9 b. 6b+

6c

G- Get Back Home Daniel Du Lac Guy Abert

130 m. 16 draws max

6b
F

5 pitches 50m. max 7a+ max

Miao
By heading to end of the road that runs along the river, you arrive at a well-preserved Miao village. Right next to the dwellings, a thin decent-sized monolith will catch your attention. This is Miao Sword. In 2008, when Olivier Balma received authorization to put up routes on the valleys fantastic rock formations, he was set on establishing climbs in the heart of the park. With the CMDI trainees, he put up these three easy routes on one of the most symbolic rocks of the region.

sword
Miao Sword 2008Olivier Balma CMDI Olivier

5a/b 5a/b 5a/b

1 2 3
N w S E

Zuo Bian Di Yi (First from Left) Er (Two) San (Three)

5a/b 5a/b 5a/b

O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI O. Balma / CMDI

1 2

S-E

25 m

10

55 min
PETZL/Lafouche

Dani AndradaCorazon de Ensueno On his unique commute to work, Dani Andrada arrives at the 4th anchor of Corazon de Ensueno

Climbers and route developers came from all over the world to Getu to set safe and amazing routes. Keep this in mind when climbing and do your part to help make this peaceful place a sustainable world-class climbing area.

Not e s

adresses & phone numbers

Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA)9 / 100763 /01067143177 Guizhou Mountaineering Association (GZMA)318 / 550002 / 08515768799 PETZL France ZI Crolles 39 920 Crolles France. www.petzl.com PETZL China / 21 A105 / 102200 /01080118873 www.snowbird.com.cn Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA). No.9 Gymnasium Road,Chongzen District,Beijing / 100763 /010-67143177 Guizhou Mountaineering Association (GZMA). No.318 Zunyi Road, Guiyang / 550002 /0851-5768799 PETZL France. ZI Crolles 39 920 Crolles France. www.petzl.com PETZL China /Snow Bird A105,Lusenbao,Fortune garden,No.21 baifuquanlu,changping,Beijing www.snowbird.com.cn /102200 /010-80118873

impressum
Guillaume VALLOT /PETZL visocontact@gmail.com Darin REISMAN/dreisman74@gmail.com () &/Petzl 2011 Guillaume VALLOT All texts, photos, visuals and design, except the front cover page and when specifically mentioned, are by Guillaume Vallot / gvallot@free.fr for PETZL. Translation from french to english by Darin Reisman / dreisman74@gmail.com. Translation from english to Chinese by Liu li / Petzl China. Copyright 2011 PETZL / G. Vallot. All rights reserved, no part of this guidebook may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical or other means in any country or in any other language without permission and the express written consent of the authors. Printed in China.