An Iraqi-Kurdish-Israeli Dumpling Soup Makes Its Way To America
To make kubeh soup, braised beef is stuffed into semolina and ground bulgur dumplings. Brought to Israel by immigrants, this time-consuming dish has become one of the nation's culinary treasures.
To make the Iraqi and Kurdish dumpling soup kubeh, Melanie Shurka dedicates hours. There are the broths to make, such as the beet-based selek or the lemon-infused hamusta enhanced by rounds of zucchini and Swiss chard. But more time is dedicated to making the dumplings themselves.
She and her cooks in New York City braise beef until it has collapsed on itself. Small palmfuls are then carefully tucked into a dough of semolina and ground bulgur, shaped into a ball with the corners of the dough kissing, and finally rolled out into a disk that's plunged into hot broth.
The process requires skills that can only be taught by someone who has entrusted
