Fiordelli chooses 21 of the best Bolgheri 2017s

1 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, Bolgheri Sassicaia 97

£141 (ib)-£230 Armit, Millésima, Museum Wines, Nickolls & Perks, Private Cellar, The Oxford Wine Co, Waud Wines

Consultant Graziana Grassini described Sassicaia’s 2017 vintage as ‘contracted and difficult, but it evolved impressively well with great strides during the oak ageing’. The wine shows intensity and elegance on a restrained nose of bramble fruit, cedar, kiwi peel and a touch of oak. Velvety, silky tannins and brilliant acidity are supported by creamy mid-palate weight with an amazingly savoury finish of cedar and tobacco. Drink 2020-2040 Alcohol 14%

Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore 96

15% Sangiovese makes Grattamacco a distinctive Bolgheri style. If on the nose Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot prevail, with cassis, cedar, kiwi and balsamic depth, the indigenous grape pushes the fragrance of the wine with chewy wild-fruit notes – exceptional expression in this hot vintage. Complex and layered, without any foursquare character, this organic wine will gain in complexity over its liquorice finish. Drink 2020-2040 Alc 14.5%

2 Masseto, Toscana 96

POA Nickolls & Perks, Private Cellar

Harvested between 24-30 August, ‘in just three passes’, according to MD Axel Heinz, and just 25,000 bottles were produced. ‘It was our second year with the optical sorting table.