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    Serendipity on the Water
    Serendipity on the Water
    Serendipity on the Water
    Ebook81 pages1 hour

    Serendipity on the Water

    By Elsan Zimmerly

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    About this ebook

    Short stories, essays and poems about my life in Alaska. Initially I had no intention of remaining in Alaska, merely taking a long pause in my life. Yet I was keenly aware from the first day I'd found a home and as time passed I came to believe I'd miss a great experience by leaving. As if a part of me was already rooted in Alaska.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherElsan Zimmerly
    Release dateMay 23, 2013
    ISBN9781301809783
    Serendipity on the Water

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      Book preview

      Serendipity on the Water - Elsan Zimmerly

      Introduction ~ A Job, a Man and a Boat

      No excursion that I know of may be made into any other American wilderness where so marvelous an abundance of noble, newborn scenery is so charmingly brought to view as on the trip through the Alexander Archipelago. ~ John Muir

      Throughout his journeys John Muir kept written accounts in commentaries, journals and scientific notations from which he then wrote his elegant and descriptive books. So too, from my many Alaska journals, notations, drawings and boat logs came the stories for this collection.

      Southeast Alaska is the long panhandle along the north Pacific coast and parallels British Columbia. It embodies a narrow mainland strip and an island-water wilderness called the Alexander Archipelago. Mainland and islands are part of the lush coastal temperate rainforest of the northwest. Stunningly rugged mountainous terrain rises from the sea, sometimes abruptly, thousands of feet, to alpine tundra. Along the mainland to the east are the jagged, snow-capped peaks of the Coastal Mountain Range that spectacularly divides Alaska and British Columbia.

      Every venture into this wild country was an adventure of undiscovered places, serendipitous happenings, breathtaking scenery and when lucky, solitude and stillness. It remains a privilege to witness the splendor of vast stretches of wild land and abundant wildlife that roam freely as in few places on this planet.

      If there is magic on this planet, wrote Loren Eisley, it is contained in water.

      Everything in this archipelago speaks to water. Water pours from the mountains in rivulets joining to form streams and rivers that flow into the sea. Rich and fertile, these forests and waters are spawning grounds for five species of salmon, feeding grounds for migratory whales; wetlands are natural nesting and breeding grounds for myriad migratory birds. Canada geese. Trumpeter swans. Sandhill cranes. Rufus hummingbirds. Arctic Loons.

      There is a strong sense of place here that captivates me. It is a place of overpowering grandeur. A place that is bold and beautiful yet demanding and dangerous. For as awesome as it is Alaska can be unforgiving. Though we didn't set out seeking danger there is always that edge on the horizon and no space between excitement and disaster. Take nothing for granted; always be aware of surroundings and conditions. It is the very nature of this remote, rugged land that demands respect and often humility.

      My Alaska sojourn began with a job, a man and a boat. My first job allowed me to travel throughout Alaska by boat and floatplane experiencing first hand the richness of the land and its indigenous people. The man, an avid sailor, became my husband opening a new world of wonder on the water and of course, the boat was our magic carpet carrying us to remote, wild places and our adventures.

      Lured to this far-away land by a childhood dream, the offer of a seasonal job made it a reality. If there was any intent it was a long pause in my wanderings, not necessarily to remain here. I longed for the unknown; I was eager for new experiences. Had no idea where this path would take me or how deeply I'd be affected by the spirit of this land. And so it took me by surprise. The feeling I had my first week in Juneau. I'd found home; I knew I was already rooted here.

      When life offers a chance to experience nature intimately through humbling circumstances as well as ecstatic joy it allows a deeper knowing and understanding of oneself as well as essential yet fragile connectedness we share with all life.

      With few expectations I boarded the plane in Seattle for a flight to Juneau. The first story in this collection marvels at the landscape across British Columbia and Alaska. The day was brilliant, the landscape extraordinary. Though atypical for this part of the country it set the stage for all that was to come. The myriad adventures, by land and sea that would fill my memory bank to overflowing.

      Without a doubt my husband, Hank was born to be on the water. He took rough seas and stormy weather in his stride, they came with the whole package. My own appreciation took time and lots of learning as the water world was a far reach from my comfort zone. An early childhood experience left me overly cautious around the water and fearful when it came to the sea. Living in Southeast Alaska, however, I discovered it was not possible to grasp the complex interconnections of a land-sea ecology without experiencing the water up close and in an intimate way. Of course, meeting and marrying a sailor had a little to do with it, too. And so began my adventures on the water, though at first with caution and sometimes reluctance I found not only a fascinating but comfortable life on the water.

      Our first boat was a 35' French-built sailboat without a heater or shower. Fazbo was what I call a wind whisperer. She knew how to sail herself and I knew she could handle and survive weather and sea conditions well beyond what we were capable of enduring. We did some local cruising mostly over weekends and vacations but Hank's main interest was sailboat racing. I wasn't a part of that but am grateful for his racing experiences and all that he learned about wind, water and sailing in difficult conditions. And even for a short time we lived aboard Fazbo over a stormy, snowy, cold winter. Boats sinking due to heavy snow accumulation; ice-packed docks making walking treacherous. We were younger then.

      In time, Hank grew weary of racing and we talked more and more about cruising wanting a more comfortable boat that we would someday live aboard. Hence, saying goodbye to Fazbo and hello to another sailboat, Serendipity, a 37 ½’ Hunter. With retirement came the luxury of time and so we made a lifestyle change. Sold everything to become dedicated live-aboards journeying between Alaska, British Columbia and Puget Sound as well as cruising the fjords of Southeast Alaska. Many voyages later after enduring cold, wet trips in an open cockpit we made another drastic shift from sail to power. We bought Calliope, a 50' trawler. Strong, seaworthy, roomy and comfortable. She was our home for about six years.

      All three boats gave varying experiences on the water. Boats are fascinating in themselves. For the seemingly confined space on

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