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Preparing for the Coming Collapse of the U.S. Dollar
Preparing for the Coming Collapse of the U.S. Dollar
Preparing for the Coming Collapse of the U.S. Dollar
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Preparing for the Coming Collapse of the U.S. Dollar

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WARNING: Do not buy this book unless you "get it". I will not try to convince you that it's going to happen, I don't have time. This book is less about why the Dollar will collapse than about what everyday people, like you and I, can do to prepare themselves for the collapse.If you are like me, you don't have extra money to be investing in gold coins or precious metals. You know that utilities will according to the President, "necessarily skyrocket". How will you handle an electric bill that is four times what it is now?

I've read other books on Quantitative Easing, the Collapse of the Dollar and other Economic Meltdowns coming our way. I'm left with the burning question at the end of them all. "What can I do about it?" We've been trained to believe that all we can do is vote fiscally responsible every 2, 4 or 6 years. But voting isn't going to put food on the table. Half the time, the ones we vote for end up turning into the ones we voted against.

You've seen gas prices in just the last month increase by more than 40 cents a gallon and there is no end in sight to the increase. How will you continue to pay for that?

You don't have the funds to build a windmill or stock up on a year's worth of food in preparation for a food shortage. This book will show you how to do it for far less.

How will you get food? How will you preserve it for use with or without electricity? How will you get limited electricity? How will you provide for your family when the dollar is worthless? This book answers those questions and more so that even those who are financially strapped can take the small steps necessary to begin.

The cost of this book is kept intentionally low so that anyone can afford it. Some of the author's proceeds from the sale of this book will go toward establishing a food bank so that God and Country Christian ministries in St. Cloud Florida can help in providing for families in need.

LanguageEnglish
PublisherDavid Roberts
Release dateMay 15, 2011
ISBN9781452423296
Preparing for the Coming Collapse of the U.S. Dollar
Author

David Roberts

David Roberts (1943–2021) was the author of dozens of books on mountaineering, adventure, and the history of the American Southwest. His essays and articles have appeared in National Geographic, National Geographic Adventure, and The Atlantic Monthly, among other publications. 

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    Preparing for the Coming Collapse of the U.S. Dollar - David Roberts

    CHAPTER ONE

    FOOD/WATER

    Your first priority for you and your family is being able to provide basic food and water. The combination of a collapsing dollar and hyper-inflation will be a ‘perfect storm’ of disaster for our everyday life. While stores remain open prior to the actual collapse there are several practical steps you can take to ensure a supply of at least the basics in supplies for food and water.

    You only have to look at the injuries and deaths reported of those who were trampled on a Black Friday by those eager to get the discounted video games or appliances to realize what would happen if it were daily sustenance at stake and not a Christmas present. Those who scoff at the idea of preparation for disaster will be those rioting in the streets and trampling over little old ladies to get to the last remaining food in the stores.

    There are several steps you can take right now to begin preparation.

    First, purchase a sizable freezer. Ideally you should be able to store 2.0 cubic feet of frozen meats per person in the household. If all you can afford is a small 5.0 cubic feet freezer, get it anyway, there are other ways to preserve foods that don’t involve freezing. You can get a used one off of Craigslist, or purchase a small one for under $200. If you can’t afford that, keep reading, there are alternatives.

    Second, purchase a membership at a wholesale club. It will pay off in the first year.

    As of March of 2011, food prices in our area have risen anywhere from 50% to 150% in less than two months. In the last year, the price of corn has risen exponentially. (over 800% according to Ag Department) When we take corn which is the cheapest source of food in the world and we use it to aid in the prevention of a hoax called Global Warming by adding it to our fuel supply, the prices rise creating a ripple effect across the spectrum of available foods.

    Higher corn prices lead to higher prices for pork, beef, chicken, milk, eggs, butter, cream, sugars, cereals, and thousands of other food products. The same bag of taco shells that a family bought two years ago is now eight times more expensive than it was. These spikes in costs will only get worse before the dollar finally collapses.

    Use your membership to purchase whole cuts of meat from the wholesale club. Buying in bulk can save you hundreds of dollars in food costs. Pork Chops, Pork Roasts and boneless spare ribs will cost you three to four times per pound what a large pork loin will cost you. One ten pound pork loin can be sliced into forty pork chops or three large pork roasts. The narrow end of the pork loin can be cut into strips for boneless spare ribs. You are paying four times the cost for the meat to be sliced. Do you have a knife? Save your money and cut it yourself.

    Last year when I completed and published this book, pork loins were selling in our area at $1.89 a pound. Six months from that point, they were selling at $3.89 a pound, today, same store, same type of cut they are selling at $5.89 a pound. The good news is that the price in the wholesale stores has only climbed to $2.29 a pound. Beef is the same, this year now more than $2.00 a pound over what we paid last year.

    Do the same for beef by purchasing whole sirloins or bottom round roasts. You will save by dividing these portions and putting them in freezer bags to be cooked later. Label the freezer bags with the date and contents, because you will forget when you bought it and sometimes what it is. (I do.) Other inexpensive goods to stock up on now include; Flour, sugar, rice, pastas, beans, powdered milk, canned vegetables and fruits, breads and yeast. The simple ingredients of flour, eggs, dry milk, oil and sugar can make breads and pastas suitable for freezing.

    These items may be stored in a cool place or in a clean metal trash can with a tight lid. To further prevent insects from infesting your food supply, set a large round pan in your shed or garage. Place a cinderblock in the center of this pan and set the trash can on top of the cinderblock. Fill the pan with water and keep it filled. It sounds over simplified, but we do this and it does work.

    Third, calculate the amount of food you will need to store. Obviously this will be limited by the space you have available for food storage and your budget. Each adult will need about two pounds of protein, one pound of pastas or breads, one pound of vegetables or fruit and two gallons of water per week. Each child will need about half of that in food and roughly the same amount in water. Ideally, you should have about six months of food stored for each person in the house. If all you can do is one month’s worth, make sure you keep that supply on hand and shop as if you did not have that stored food.

    You may be asking, what about after I’m out of food? After the stores are closed or the dollar is worthless how do I get my family fed? The emergency supply of food is to give you enough time to procure food on your own. There are three highly important areas in obtaining food in an unstable environment. First is the procuring of food, second is the preservation of food and third is in the preparation of the food you have procured. We will look at that in the coming sections.

    Storing water involves a little more than just setting it somewhere and forgetting it. The five gallon water jugs you get from the store require a deposit on the bottle, but it’s a good idea to have some of those stored for later use. If the cap is on it, air can’t get to it and cause bacteria growth in the water. Keep the water in a dark cool place. Air and light are your enemies when it comes to storing water as it can aid in the growth of green algae that would make water unpalatable.

    Add one drop of bleach for each gallon of water stored. Cover the jugs with a tarp in a cool corner of your garage or basement. These are to be used for emergency only so don’t put off buying water for day to day use. If you do not have a well, it would be a good idea, if you have the money, get a combination manual and electric pump water well. If you don’t have the money, I understand, neither do I, I’m just fortunate enough to live in a house with a well.

    LIST OF OTHER ITEMS TO STOCK UP ON:

    Toilet Paper, Feminine Products, Prescription Medicines, Powdered Milk, Over the Counter Medicines, Ice, Fuel, Pet Foods, Ammunition, Batteries (preferably rechargeable) and flashlights. Eggs and Milk can be frozen but take a good three days to thaw in the fridge. Charcoal and/or wood chips. Feed for the animals you raise. Seeds, soil and insecticides.

    CHAPTER TWO:

    PROCURING FOOD

    Many millionaires will tell you that the secret to their money-making success was to find an asset that would ‘throw off’ money with little input or work by the owner of the asset. The truly successful had many of these types of assets each one ‘throwing off’ money. This is the same idea behind the procuring of food. You need to have an asset (a food) that ‘throws off’ food on a regular basis. What do I mean by that? It’s simple, you do what your grandparents and great grandparents did you raise your own food.

    Animals

    Purchase chickens or ducks. A young chicken or duck will ‘throw off’ one egg daily, every day 365 days a year. Owning one chicken per individual in the household will generate a high protein source of food every day for a good three years. You do not need a rooster to get eggs, you will need one if you plan on incubating some eggs to ‘throw off’ more chickens. If space allows in your yard, you may consider purchasing two or three female chickens per individual. It takes six months for a baby duck or chick to begin laying eggs. These eggs can be used to make breads, pastas and more. (Hence the reason for the six month supply of food.)

    There are four main advantages to owning chickens. First, the obvious benefit of daily fresh eggs for food. (or ‘gulp’, harvesting them for meat) Second, chickens will de-bug your yard and keep the grass low. Third, chicken manure is some of the best fertilizer for gardens and lawns. Use sparingly, it is HIGH in nitrogen and can burn your vegetable plants. Owning chickens was common up through the 1950’s in every city in America. Many people owned chickens or livestock of some kind. They can be kept safely in a cheaply constructed coop or a large dog kennel with access to the grass below. Fourth, chickens can eat discarded veggies, spoiled milk, stale bread and boiled egg shells.

    But I can’t have chickens in my HOA or apartment. My yard is too small, or I don’t have a yard. We will deal with these situations at the end of this section, for right now, keep reading.

    Chickens need to be able to perch up off the ground at night, be protected from predators and thieves, and have access to clean food and water. A simple ‘A-frame’ coop can be built with scrap wood materials and chicken wire for under $100. (see step by step coop instructions in Section) There are a few sets of instructions for coop building, read all of them and choose the one that fits your budget and size requirements. We have since last year constructed coops out of free pallets and chicken wire. They work very well.

    There are a few simple rules in keeping chickens or ducks.

    Rule 1 – Chickens are stupid. They will find a hole in your fence to escape into the front yard and perch in the oddest places including grills, cardboard boxes and underneath your house. (yeah, add behind the tires of your vehicle on a rainy day to that list. Don’t ask.)

    Rule 2 – Chickens are helpless. A chicken has no natural defense system except to run. They must be protected in an enclosure.

    Rule 3 – Chickens need clean food and water. BUT, remember Rule 1. They will poop in their food and water supply. A well placed water bucket utilizing chicken water nipples on the bottom will keep poop out of the water. A hanging feeder will keep poop out of the food.

    Rule 4 – If you want to keep 6 chickens, get 9. You will lose some chickens to predators or illness even if you are very careful with them. Be prepared and make sure you don’t lose too many egg-layers.

    You may be saying to yourself, That’s a lot of trouble to get eggs. Right now a dozen eggs sell for between $2 and $3. But, Remember, you are preparing for the day when eggs reach as high as $5 to $10 per dozen or are completely unavailable because of grocery stores closing and the collapse of the dollar. The same neighbors that may complain about the cluck – cluck coming from your backyard will be the ones begging for a dozen eggs to feed their families because they have not prepared.

    Buy a dairy cow, or female goat.

    WHOA! Are you serious, David? Where would I put a cow or goat? Yes, it is possible even if you live in an apartment or small house with no yard to own a cow. We’ll deal with that momentarily. The rest of you consider this, a cow or goat eats grass, hay and weeds. The cow will keep your yard trimmed and you will not need your riding mower anymore. How much did that mower cost, a couple thousand dollars? The cow will keep your yard nicely fertilized and provide fuel for your compost pile. The compost pile can aid in generating heat for a small greenhouse in climates where winters are extremely harsh. See the section on building a heated greenhouse. Or it will provide fertilizer for your garden area.

    An average dairy cow produces 6-8 gallons of milk daily. An average goat produces about 2 gallons a day. That is way too much for a typical family. From this production of milk, you can also make cream, butter, and cheeses. The worldwide production of meats and milk products involves more goats than it does cows. The addition of a male goat or Buck, will help ensure an addition of a new young goat twice per year, ‘throwing off’ another possible milk or meat source.

    OK, FOR YOU APARTMENT/SMALL YARD DWELLERS

    For those of you who live in an apartment, or in a neighborhood with a Home Owner’s Association that will not permit cattle or chickens, you do have a few viable options. The first is in raising quiet animals for meat. (Please don’t call me if you are in PETA, those nuts will be the first ones off the deep end eating whatever walks in front of them when they are desperate.)

    Rabbits are quiet animals. And yes, they are adorable as bunnies, but they grow up quick. In six months with unchecked mating and births, your food supply could include close to one hundred rabbits. Remember, rabbits up until a generation ago were considered food. Their disposition and rapid reproduction can work for you if you are raising food as opposed to working against you if you are raising pets. No neighbor need be aware of the number of rabbits you own. And rabbits generate fertilizer all day long. I did not know this when I wrote this book, but rabbit fertilizer is garden ready fertilizer, no composting necessary AND, people buy bags of rabbit poop. Wow!

    Your other option involves finding your local 4H office and becoming an active participant in the activities of these families. Your kids can even earn scholarships to camp and money for raising chickens, ducks, rabbits, citrus trees and livestock.

    Some groups call this viable option a co-op, others call it an exchange. Someone in a 4H group will have the land and room for chickens, cows, or pigs. Many of them already have these animals on their property. A co-op is a small group of families purchasing a share of a cow, a group of cows or a flock of chickens. Four families purchase the animals and each pays a fourth of the costs for feed and care. In return, each family receives a fourth of the milk from the cow, eggs from the chickens and when their production days are over, a fourth of the meat.

    If you can’t find a local 4H office, or your local 4H office has no active exchanges in place, find a couple of friends that ‘get it’. You have to know someone that has the room for one of these types of animals. Create your own co-op and enjoy the proceeds. Connect on the God and Country ministries facebook page and send us your location and your idea for an exchange and we will try to link you to someone in your area who can help form the exchange. godandcountrycc@gmail.com

    OTHER OPTIONS

    If you have a pool, you know how much of a pain pool maintenance can be. Converting a swimming pool into a pond for stocking fish is not a new idea. It’s a matter of purchasing a stronger filter system to handle fish waste and keeping the water oxygenated constantly. Fish is another animal that will ‘throw off’ food for you. Catfish fingerlings mature in about six months and will begin reproducing generating more catfish. As long as you keep the fish well fed with table scraps and cheap dog food, many of the little fish will survive to edible sizes.

    The pool should be a saline and not a chlorine type pool and the water can be kept clear as discussed in the keeping pond fish alive in winter chapter in the Section for this section. If you do not have a pool, portable spas and pools can be purchased cheaply sometimes used ones are free if you are willing to haul them away. Edible fish available for sale as fingerlings include catfish, bass, perch, and trout.

    Update: Tilapia grow faster than any other fish to edible sizes. Consider tilapia as an alternative to bass or perch which can take over a year to be ready to eat.

    Frequent trips to the ocean, if that is feasible, we are 40 minutes from either coast in Florida, can yield large catches of crab, shrimp, scallops, larger fish and more that can be used to supplement your food supply. Check out the step-by-step instructions on how to build a topless crab trap. You will need fishing poles with high strength line.

    Vegetables and Fruits

    Another type of food that will ‘throw off’ additional foods for you for a few seasons is the vegetable or fruit. If you are like me, neither of my thumbs are green and growing things is difficult. Follow these steps and it could help compensate as it has done for me. If you don’t have the room for a large garden, you can at least use a small portion of a yard and plastic containers to grow a little fruit or vegetables. High yield vegetable plants include tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, and peas. Low yield vegetable plants include onions, potatoes, lettuce and cabbage.

    One important rule about the purchase of vegetable or fruit seeds is ‘don’t buy hybrid seeds’. You want fruit or vegetables that will create viable seeds for the second generation of plants. Many hybrid seeds cannot do that.

    Why? Because a hybrid is created from two or more different plants of the same species vegetable. The over zealous production of a cherry tomato plant with so-so taste can be bred with the so-so production of large tomatoes with excellent flavor. The ideal hybrid will be a LOT of tasty (if mediocre) tomatoes. When you plant for the second generation, you may end up with the parent type of plant you don’t want.

    Using a fence or trellis to help the high yield plants climb will help promote the growth and production in the smallest area. Planting several onion plants around the border of your garden will aid in keeping some pests away. If you have chickens or goats, make sure they are safely away from the garden area, they will eat everything.

    Use the manure as a fertilizer for your garden by mixing some into the soil and mulch. High yield fruit production can be obtained in time with citrus trees that are already blooming. Don’t purchase a sapling, you won’t have time to wait for the tree to mature. Other high yield fruits include peanuts, melons, strawberries, grapes and berries.

    Have you seen the upside down tomato planters? You can make one of those from an empty 2-liter soda bottle and save $10. Upside down planters can grow any vine-type plant and can be hung from porches or balconies. Here’s how to do it.

    Cut the bottle’s bottom off at about the ¾ inch mark. Remove the cap and insert the tomato, strawberry or other plant through the bottom of the bottle so that the leaves and stem exit out through the narrow opening. Insert cut pieces of sponges into the openings around the plant where dirt may exit the bottle when you water the plant. Place a 2 inch layer of small pebbles around the roots and fill the rest of the bottle with soil. Use a hole punch and make three holes in what is now the top of the bottle. Hang the bottle about three feet off the ground from a fence post or railing on a deck. The vines should have some kind of support to use to climb on.

    It was this particular project that one lib found to be dubious, listen if you can keep the soil in the bottle, cover the bottle with duct tape or paint to keep light out, these planters produce veggies in areas you would never be able to produce veggies in otherwise.

    For those in climates not conducive to year round growth building a small greenhouse is not as difficult as you might think. Consult the step-by-step directions for building one of the greenhouses at the end of this section.

    But I live in an apartment, small house, etc.

    At the end of this section are step by step instructions on how to utilize DWC (Deep Water Culture) Bubblers and how to build a grow room out of an existing structure. Remember that these will be extreme times where it will be food, not marijuana being grown indoors. The DWC Bubblers will allow you to grow multiple plants in a smaller area and indoors. This will eliminate the need for soil and dirty fertilizers, your plants will be fed and sustained in clean substrate with liquids only.

    HOW TO START FROM A SEED IN A DWC BUBBLER

    There are two ways to build a DWC Bubbler, one is the expensive way, order from the DWC manufacturer, the other is the cheap way, use five to fifteen gallon tubs you can get at garage sales and grocery stores for pennies on the dollar. If you can afford the expensive way, great, if not, just get the cheap ones.

    The most delicate stage of development in a plant is germinating the seed into a seedling. If there is not enough water, the seed doesn't start. If there is too much water, the seed dies. The answer is in using the DWC Deep Water Culture hydroponics method of starting your seeds. A DWC is relatively cheap to build if constructed correctly and provides an oxygen-rich environment for your seedlings. Using the DWC system avoids the insects that come with using soil or other media for growing seeds in.

    Place duct tape over sides and bottom of the plastic container or bucket. The goal is to prevent light from entering the interior of the container and causing algae to grow. If the container you chose is a dark color and does not allow a lot of light to penetrate the sides or bottom, you can still apply duct tape to prevent what little light there is from penetrating and causing slow algae growth, which will kill the roots of your seedling.

    Drill a 1/8-inch hole about 1 inch from the top of the container. The hole should be located in the back portion of the container. Insert the black air hose into the container through the drilled hole and connect the air stone to the black hose on the inside of the container. The air hose can be purchased from any pet store or aquarium supply.

    Drill a 1-3/8-inch hole into the lid of the container, place the lid on the container and set a similar sized net pot into this hole. Note where the bottom of the pot rests, the pot should not reach all the way to the bottom of the plastic container. There should be enough room in the container so that the net pot rests just below the water level. You don't want to have the developing roots saturated, just nice and moist.

    Remove the lid from the container and fill with water up to the level just below the net pot. The air stone should be heavy enough to stay submerged, if it is floating you can use some clean stones to weigh it down.

    Connect the other end of the black hose to the air pump and plug it in. Look inside the container for the bubbles to make sure the air pump is working. Replace the lid and push down firmly to lock the lid in place.

    Insert the seed into the plant growth media. Rock wool or clay pebble medium is one option, but that requires a preparation washing of the dirt and dust particles to get your plant growth media clean. The other option can be found in hydroponics stores and online and resembles a light foam material. One company that developed this type of media is called the Sure to Grow. (Google it, and no, I am not paid to endorse them, it’s just a good product.) It is available in different sizes and can be used for seeds or propagating cuttings from existing plants. They call this media the Storm Series or Hail.

    Place the plant media into the net pot with the pump running. Wait about seven to 14 days for the roots to begin to develop. At this point you can add a minimal amount of nutrients to the water so that the roots continue to grow.

    If the seed you are starting is of a larger plant, you will need a support system to allow the plant to continue growing. Which nutrients you add depends on the type of seed you are germinating.

    Watch the water level and add more as needed. Keep the level at the same point and make sure the air pump is running constantly, generating the oxygen the plants need to survive.

    A special note: If you are in an apartment or HOA the previous sections were for you to be able to build ‘something’ to procure food. The following sections on building greenhouses, windmills, etc are for people with a yard. Follow all the advice previous and you will at least have food for a few months. With rabbits, possibly for years. Don’t assume because we are discussing greenhouses that you have reached the end of what you can do. Keep reading.

    HOW TO ASSEMBLE AN INFLATION BUSTER GREENHOUSE

    Keep in mind, if you can afford to buy the brand name Inflation Buster, great! If not, use these instructions to build one out of scrap materials. Or, turn to the next available cheaper option for building a greenhouse.

    The concept of the inflation buster evolved from everyday homeowners creating gardens or greenhouses to help ensure a supply of food during times of economic distress. The inflation buster greenhouse is a kit purchased from XSSmith Company. A small, arch-shaped structure made of arched tubing and polyethylene covering, it is one of the cheaper structures of greenhouses that they manufacture. With the smallest measuring 14 feet wide, and the largest measuring 30 feet wide, there are an assortment of sizes to choose from.

    Prepare the Site

    Mark off the area where you are planning to build the greenhouse. You will need three feet around all sides and the front and rear of the structure. Using the measurements of the size you chose, mark off the length and width with small stakes.

    Level the area. Rent some earth-moving equipment to help you get the job done faster. The foundation area should be perfectly level. You have the option of having a concrete slab built to ensure a level area, but this will add to the cost of construction. Mix Triazicide Commercial Insect Killer in the two-gallon sprayer. The usual dose for lawns will be two ounces of Triazicide for each gallon of water. In constructing a greenhouse, you will want to use a higher proportion, about six ounces per gallon in a two-gallon sprayer. Soak the leveled area as thoroughly as possible. Once the area is soaked, use any leftover spray for the three-foot area around the foundation. Let the spray soak in overnight.

    Assemble the Greenhouse

    Unroll the black polycarbonate floor covering over the foundation, allowing the extra portion to hang over the foundation area. Connect the flooring 2 X 4's together using the stakes as a guide. Use three carpenters screws on each corner. You can use metal connector brackets for added strength. Make sure the floor framing is level.

    Assemble the door and side frames. The 2 x 4's for the side structure will be pre-cut and each side will have eight 2 x 4's. Label the two tallest ones with an A, the next two tallest with a B, then C and D for the last ones. The door frame will be in the center of one side of the structure. The two tallest 2 X 4's will be placed on each side of the door frame. Secure the door frame to the floor frame first using carpenters screws and metal brackets if you choose.

    Secure the 2 x 4's to the door frame and then the floor with screws or nails. Each remaining 2 x 4, from largest to smallest, should be secured to the floor frame about 1 1/2 feet apart from each other. Secure the B pieces about 18 inches from the door frame on either side. Repeat with the C and D pieces. Repeat this process for the other end of the greenhouse.

    Attach the tube connectors to each corner of the floor structure with carpenter screws. It is important that these be level. Lift the first one-piece bow up and over the side wall structure. Secure each side of the bow into the tube connectors. Repeat the procedure on the other end of the greenhouse with another one-piece bow. Connect the center support pipe using the T connectors in the center of the bows.

    Find the center of the inside of the greenhouse structure and secure another one-piece bow there with connectors. The last three bows should rest on the center support pipe. The remaining two bows should be placed so they are evenly spaced down the length of the structure.

    Unroll the opaque polyethylene cover. Gently pull the cover over the top of the greenhouse structure until the entire top is covered. Secure one side of the cover to the outside of the floor frame by using the interlocking buttons on the side to snap the cover into place. Repeat this process on each side.

    Unroll the clear polyethylene sides that will cover the wall structures. Attach these sides to the wall structures, being careful to avoid interfering with the door frame. Use the snaps to attach the sides in the same way you did for the top

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