Fortified Wines or Wines at the End of the Meal
By Andre Simon
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Fortified Wines or Wines at the End of the Meal - Andre Simon
WINES
FORTIFIED WINES OR WINES TO SERVE
AT THE END OF A MEAL
WHEN freshly gathered ripe grapes are pressed, if their juice is left alone it ferments, which means that its sugar, or sugars—for, to be precise, there are two distinct forms of sugar in grape-juice—undergo a complete change, being split up into a number of different matters, of which by far the two more important are carbonic acid gas, which escapes in the air, and ethyl alcohol, which remains and makes all the difference between grape-juice and wine. When the sun has not been too kind and the grapes are not as sweet as they might be—and ought to be—the whole of their sugar content will not yield more than 8 or 9 per cent. of alcohol, and the wine from such grapes will be a poor weakling on the verge of the vinegar tub. It may be acceptable, however, whilst still quite young, as a thirst remover, in fairly large draughts, served cool or cold, but it will not last, and it can never hope to become a fine wine. If the grapes are sweeter, because they happen to be riper or of a better species, and again if their sweet juice is allowed to ferment in its own sweet way, the wine will contain more alcohol, 10 to 12 per cent., which is the normal strength of most beverage wines, and up to 13 or 14 per cent., which is rather exceptional in all but great vintage years; there are even times when a wine may, under particularly favourable conditions, contain as much as 15 per cent. of alcohol as a result of the natural fermentation of its original sweet grape-juice. But, however rich in sugar any grape-juice may be, fermentation stops automatically the moment the wine reaches a strength of 15 degrees of alcohol, or even before it gets there. This is Nature’s own thermostat system.
Ever since the time when Mr. Gladstone was Chancellor of the Exchequer, in 1860–2, wines have been taxed according to their alcoholic strength instead of according to their country of origin only; the demarcation line between the higher and lower rates of duties is intended to divide ‘natural’ or beverage wines from ‘fortified’ or dessert wines. Wines imported from any of the Empire vineyards pay the lower rate of duty if they do not exceed