The Aromatherapy Encyclopedia: A Concise Guide to Over 395 Plant Oils [2nd Edition]

CHAPTER 1

Aromatic Plants Over the Years

Since the beginning of recorded history, aromatic plants have been used to scent, beautify, and heal the body. They also played a major role in preserving food, due to their antibacterial properties. Twenty-four hundred years ago, herbalists and physicians knew the great value of these plants and used them to help heal their patients.

Hippocrates, the father of medicine, recommended anise to clear congestion in the breathing passages, rose flowers for uterine problems, vitex for inflammation, pine bark for wound healing and inflammation, and mint as a rejuvenative and to relieve water retention.

Theophrastus, the father of botany, recommended anise for good dreams and melissa to elevate the mood.

Pliny, the Roman herbalist, recommended violet for a good night’s sleep and to relieve headaches. He mentioned mint in forty-one different potions to help digestion and revitalize the body.

Dioscorides, the Greek physician who served as a military surgeon for the Romans, wrote a five-volume text titled De Materia Medica, which presented the medicinal properties and the uses of hundreds of plants. The text was the authoritative reference on medicinal plants for 1,500 years and was used by physicians, herbalists, and apothecaries. For garlic alone, he listed more than twenty uses including an antidote for poisoning, cleaning of the arteries, and alleviating intestinal parasites. He also recommended pomegranate rind to expel tapeworms from the intestinal tract, parsley for urinary problems, rosemary for liver problems, fennel for water retention and inflammation, fenugreek for menstrual problems, lavender and hyssop for chest congestion, and thyme for improving circulation and clearing the breathing passages.

In ancient times, the Egyptians regarded the possession and use of fragrant oils as evidence of great wealth and high social standing. They luxuriated in the pleasures of bathing in scented waters, indulging in a delightful fragrant massage, and perfuming their bodies with enchanting oils and ointments. The priests were the first perfumers and healers to dispense aromatics by preparing blends for the kings, queens, and high dignitaries of temples and governments. Egyptian custom required that the king be anointed by a priest with fragrant oils before being crowned.

During religious ceremonies, the priests used aromatic waters in the anointing rituals, burned incense in an effort to protect against evil spirits, and help the worshippers concentrate on their prayers. When the pharaohs died, their bodies were wrapped with fabric containing cinnamon, myrrh, cedarwood, and other resins and oils. This mummification method was confirmed to have been effective when modern-day archaeologists excavated the mummies and found them to be well preserved in their original burial chambers.

The ancient Romans lavishly perfumed their bodies and scented everything from military flags to the walls of their homes. Eventually Rome became the bathing capital of the world, with 1,000 public bath houses located throughout the city for people to bathe, socialize, and afterwards enjoy a pampering massage with scented oils and unguents.

The art of extracting the volatile essences from plants was initiated by the Egyptians, who heated them in clay containers. Two centuries later, Greek alchemists invented the distillation process, which further developed the use of essences for religious and therapeutic purposes. By 1000 A.D., the Arabic physician, Avicenna, perfected the extraction method by introducing the cooling system into the distillation process, thereby creating the most potent essences with stronger fragrances.

During the fourteenth century, the Great Plague devastated Europe and Asia, killing millions of people. All aromatic substances available were used for their antiseptic properties to fight off the dreaded disease. Cedar, clove, cypress, pine, sage, rosemary, and thyme were burned in the streets, hospitals, and sickrooms in a desperate attempt to prevent the spread of the epidemic. It was reported that perfumers and those who handled and used aromatics of various kinds were virtually immune to the ravages of the plague and survived.

The study of the therapeutic effectiveness of essential oils was further advanced by René-Maurice Gat-tefosse, a French cosmetic chemist. In the early 1920s, while working in his laboratory, Gattefosse accidentally burned his hand and immediately immersed it into the nearest cold liquid, which happened to be a container of lavender oil. Surprisingly, the pain lessened and the reaction of redness, inflammation, and blistering was drastically reduced. In addition, the wound healed very quickly and no scar developed. After this incident, Gattefosse decided to dedicate the rest of his life to the study of the remarkable healing properties of the essential oils and coined the term aromatherapy in 1928.

Inspired by Gattefosse’s work, Jean Valnet, a French medical doctor, exclusively used the essential oils to treat the battle wounds of the French soldiers during World War II. Dr. Valnet’s extensive use of essences gained him official recognition in France and acknowledged aromatherapy as a true therapy. His book, The Practice of Aromatherapy, is a classic work on the subject.

About the same time as Dr. Valnet was practicing aromatherapy, Madame Marguerite Maury, a biochemist, pursued her study of the cosmetic and therapeutic uses of the essential oils. She was later awarded the Prix International for her work in natural skin care.

Today, the use of essential oils worldwide is steadily becoming more widespread as greater numbers of individuals become aware of the myriad life-enhancing properties of these remarkable substances. These precious essences help balance and put us in greater harmony with the natural world. They protect us with their antibacterial properties, reduce our stress, and give us comfort, reassurance, and pleasure.

Some of the oils can produce instantaneous results that are easily recognizable, while others perform their work at a slower pace in a relatively unnoticeable, subtle way. Only those people who use the oils on a regular basis can begin to understand and fully appreciate and respect their miraculous value.

Aromatherapy offers us a chance to reach out to our forgotten past. By looking to nature, with all of its benefits and beauty, we can take advantage of the valuable wisdom of the ages from our ancestors and benefit from this very precious gift of aromatic essential oils.

CHAPTER 2

Safety, Handling, and Selection of Oils

SAFETY AND HANDLING OF OILS

Essential oils can be extremely beneficial when used properly; therefore, please follow these guidelines:

•  Essential oils are highly concentrated substances and should be diluted in a carrier oil such as almond (sweet), jojoba, macadamia nut, or sesame oil before being applied on the skin, in order to prevent skin irritation. (See Chapter 3 for proper blending.) If any skin irritation should occur as a result of using the essential oils, immediately apply additional carrier oil to the area. This will quickly soothe the skin. Also, dabbing on some cornstarch can be helpful.

•  When applying essential oils on the skin, using a mist spray, or taking a scented bath, be careful not to get the oils into the eyes. If this should occur, flush the eyes with cool water.

•  Care must be taken when using carrier and essential oils during pregnancy. Many of the oils have a stimulating effect on the uterus, which can be very helpful at the appropriate time to facilitate childbirth. However, if those oils are used prior to the time of childbirth, they can bring on premature labor. Even certain common spices, herbs, and vegetables, such as celery, carrots, parsley, basil, bay leaves, marjoram, saffron, and safflower oil can stimulate uterine contractions.

•  Small amounts (two to three drops at one time) of the following essential oils are known to be safe during pregnancy: bergamot, coriander, cypress, frankincense, geranium, ginger, grapefruit, lavandin, lavender, lemon, lime, mandarin, neroli, orange, patchouli, petitgrain, sandalwood, tangelo, tangerine, tea tree, and temple orange. Sesame oil can be used as a carrier oil.

•  A woman nursing her baby should exercise caution when using the essential oils as the effects of the oils will be readily passed on to the infant.

•  If a person is highly allergic, a simple test can determine if there is any sensitivity to a particular oil. Rub a drop of carrier oil on the upper chest area, and in twelve hours, check if there is redness or any other skin reaction. If the skin is clear, dilute one drop of an essential oil in twenty drops of the same carrier oil and again apply to the upper chest area. If there is no skin reaction after twelve hours, both the carrier and the essential oil can be used.

•  Do not consume alcohol, except for a small glass of wine with a meal, in the time period when using essential oils.

•  Do not use essential oils while on medication as the oils might interfere with the medicine.

•  After an essential oil blend is applied on the skin, avoid, for at least four hours, sunbathing, sauna/steam room, or a hot bath, in order to prevent the possibility of skin irritation. This precaution is especially important when using phototoxic and other essential oils that can irritate the skin.

•  There are people with extremely sensitive skin who cannot tolerate the essential oils without experiencing skin irritation. If this is the case, discontinue use.

•  Many essential oils will remove the finish when spilled on furniture; therefore, be careful when handling the bottles.

•  Light and oxygen cause oils to deteriorate rapidly. Refrigeration does not prevent spoilage, but diminishes the speed at which it occurs. Therefore, oils should be stored in brown glass bottles in a dark and cool place.

•  Always use a glass dropper when measuring drops of essential oil.

•  Keep all bottles tightly closed to prevent the oils from evaporating and oxidizing.

•  Always store essential oils out of sight and reach of children.

ESSENTIAL AND CARRIER OILS

Essential oils are extracted from grasses, flower petals, seeds, fruit, rinds, buds, resins, bark, wood, twigs, stems, leaves, roots, and rhizomes. These oils are responsible for the fragrance emitted by plants. The oils vary in color, are insoluable in water at room temperature, and have a watery consistency, except for resins, some florals, as well as other essential oils like patchouli, sandalwood, amyris, and elemi, which tend to be heavier in viscosity. An essential oil may be concentrated in a specific part of the plant or spread out in several areas, for example, the orange tree yields an oil from its flower blossoms, leaves, twigs, and rind of the fruit. The clove tree contains oil in the buds, stems, and leaves. The whole plant of peppermint and lemongrass has oil, whereas essential oil is extracted only from the flowers of jasmine, ylang-ylang, and helichrysum.

Some essential oils are obtained from the dried plant materials like allspice and clove buds; others are from fresh materials like neroli flowers, litsea cubeba berries, and the leaves of the eucalyptus citriodora tree. Some oils are extracted from ripe berries, such as juniper berry and litsea cubeba, and others are extracted from unripe berries, such as black pepper and allspice.

The quality and quantity of an essential oil produced from a plant depends on several factors, including where the plant is grown (the altitude, moisture, climate), the condition of the soil, the season and time of day or night the plant material is harvested, and the extracted method used. The ylang-ylang tree bears flowers year round, but the months in which the flowers contain the highest yield of oil are May and June. Rose petals are picked early in the morning before sunrise; jasmine flowers are picked at dusk before they are a day old.

Essential oils are highly volatile and evaporate when exposed to air. Carrier oils, also known as vegetal oils, are quite different than essential oils. They are extracted from nuts, seeds, fruits, and vegetables, and are made up of fatty acids, which give them a greasy texture. Carrier oils are used to dilute the essential oils for massage applications, as well as for skin and hair care. These oils protect the skin from possible irritation from the concentrated essential oils. Unlike essential oils, carrier oils are not as stable, have a shorter shelf life, and are not volatile.

METHODS OF EXTRACTION

The extraction process is a factor in determining the purity of the oil. Before purchasing carrier and essential oils, it is important to become knowledgeable of the different methods of extraction.

Steam Distillation

Steam from boiling water is used to extract the essential oil from the plant material. As the steam rises and passes through a cold coil, it turns into a liquid. The essential oil floats to the top and is skimmed off. Steam distillation is extensively used and produces a good-quality essential oil.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2) Extraction

CO2 extraction is the most modern extraction method available, using high pressure, and lower temperatures than steam distillation. There are two types of oils using carbon dioxide (CO2): one is called Select; the other is Total.

In CO2 extraction, the plant material is placed into a chamber to which compressed CO2 gas is released. The temperature is set to a range of 105–140ºF (40–60ºC). As the gas passes through the plant material, it draws out the components.

The difference between the Select and the Total processes is in the amount of pressure used. The pressure determines the density of the carbon dioxide gas and the ability of the gas to dissolve the plant material, as well as the viscosity of the oil. Select extracts are produced at 90–120 bar pressure, and the Total at 300–500 bar pressure. When the process is completed, the pressure is lowered, and the extracted components precipitate out and are collected. The CO2 gas is then recompressed and recycled to be used again, without leaving any residue in the extracted oil.

The Select oil contains components similar to oils extracted through steam distillation. The Total method extracts a great amount of the plant components. The oil is considered more identical to the plant material it is obtained from, containing more constituents than from the Select method. The Total oils tend to be thicker, and some are semisolid. This extract is comparable in components to the hexane-solvent extracted oil. For example, when an extraction is done on the fennel plant, the Select extract consists of mainly essential oil, while the Total extract contains the essential oil together with the full amount of fatty oil (vegetal oil) that naturally occurs in the plant material.

Since the CO2 process equipment is more costly, the extracted essential oils are more expensive than the steam distilled. However, CO2 extracts have superior quality and composition.

Cold-Pressed Citrus Oils

Essential oils from citrus fruit require a different method of extraction. Citrus oils are produced from the citrus peel, using a cold-pressed method. The fruits are placed on a conveyor belt and then dropped into a cup with knives. As the cup closes, the knives puncture the fruit and remove the peel. The peel is then soaked in water and put through a centrifuge process to separate out the essential oil.

Maceration

Flowers such as rose, jasmine, and other plant materials are soaked in hot fatty oil until the cells rupture and the oil absorbs the aromatic essence contained in the flowers.

Solvent Extraction

The plant material is bathed in solvents such as hexane and other toxic chemicals, which are used to extract the oil. A high percentage of carrier/vegetal oils are extracted in this manner. Concretes are also obtained by using this method, which produces a semi-solid wax. Absolutes are a secondary product made from concretes. The process involves adding ethanol to dissolve the concrete, removing some of the heavy components. After the alcohol is evaporated out, a semi-heavy liquid remains, which is the absolute. Examples of plant materials commonly used for concretes and absolutes are jasmine, linden blossom, lotus, and rose.

Solvent-extracted oils are less expensive to produce than the cold-pressed, expeller-pressed, steam-distilled, and CO2-extracted methods, and produce a higher yield. However, toxic residues remain in the oil, which makes this product undesirable for aromatherapy use.

Cold-Pressed and Expeller-Pressed Extraction of Vegetal Oils

Seeds, nuts, fruits, and vegetables are pressed without the use of high heat to preserve the components in the oil. These methods produce a quality oil.

Cold-pressed oils are produced by a mechanical batch-pressing process in which heat-producing friction is minimized, keeping temperatures below 120°F (49°C). The expeller-pressed method generates more heat to extract the oil, so in-line refrigerated cooling devices are added to the presses to keep the temperatures down to 185°F (85°C) during the pressing.

A large percentage of vegetal oils are usually refined afterward using high heat and harsh chemicals that include the following:

Degumming: Chlorophyll, vitamins, and minerals are removed from the oil.

Refining: An alkaline solution called lye is added to refine the oil.

Bleaching: Fuller’s Earth, a naturally occurring clay-like substance, is added as a bleaching agent and then filtered out, further removing nutritive substances. The oil at this stage becomes clear.

Deodorizing: The oil is deodorized by steam distillation at high temperatures over 450°F (232°C) for 30 to 60 minutes.

Winterizing: The oil is then cooled and filtered. This process prevents the oil from becoming cloudy during cold temperatures.

The finished product is nutrient deficient, with only fatty acids remaining. Therefore, it is important to check the product label on the container to ensure that the oil is unrefined, containing all the valuable nutrients.

SELECTION OF QUALITY OILS

It is unfortunate that a high percentage of essential oils commonly sold to the public are adulterated. This is done to increase profits without much concern for the consequences to the consumer. Some of the adulteration involves adding a cheaper oil to a more expensive oil in order to stretch it.

Many other more serious adulterations take place by adding fractionalized components, synthetic chemicals, and solvents, which contaminate the oils. This practice is common knowledge in the essential oil industry and is referred to as making a soup. Each time an oil changes hands, the possibility increases for the original oil to become more contaminated with adulterants. Common examples of adulteration are:

Synthetic oils and oils that are extracted by chemical or petroleum solvents should never be used. The man-made chemicals that replicate the aromas of natural oils do not contain the beneficial properties of the pure plant oils. As a matter of fact, many of these synthetic compounds can be very irritating to the nervous system and the entire body. Oils that are solvent extracted contain toxic residues from the solvent and can be harmful as well.

The highest grade and most effective oils are produced from plants that are grown wild and away from polluted sources or are cultivated by natural farming methods without the use of pesticides, herbicides, or any other unnatural substances. It is important to select for purchase unrefined carrier oils that are cold- or expeller-pressed, and essential oils that have either been steam distilled, CO2 extracted, or, in the case of citrus oils, cold-pressed.

CHAPTER 3

Vegetal Oils, Butters, and Waxes

Vegetal oils are derived from seeds, nuts, fruits, and vegetables. Many of these oils are used as a carrier oil to dilute essential oils so that the blend can be applied safely on the skin. Vegetal butters and waxes are mainly used as ingredients in skin and hair care products.

The following oils, butters, and waxes are covered in this chapter:

Acai Fruit

Acai Seed

Almond (Sweet)

Amaranth

Andiroba

Annatto

Apricot Kernel

Argan

Avocado*

Babassu**

Bacuri (Bukuri)

Baobab

Beechnut

Black Cumin

Black Currant Seed*

Black Raspberry Seed

Blackberry Seed

Blueberry Seed

Borage*

Boysenberry Seed

Brazil Nut

Broccoli Seed

Buriti Fruit

Buriti Kernel

Camelina

Camellia (Tea)

Candelilla Wax

Canola (Rapeseed)

Carnauba Wax

Carob Pod

Carrot Root*

Cashew Nut*

Castor

Chaulmoogra

Cherry Kernel

Chia Seed

Chufa

Cocoa Butter

Coconut**

Coffee

Corn

Cottonseed

Cranberry Seed

Cucumber Seed

Cupuacu Butter

Cynara (Cardoon)

Echium

Evening Primrose*

Fenugreek Seed

Flaxseed

Grapeseed

Gromwell Root

Guanabana

Hazelnut

Hemp

Illipe Butter

Jojoba*

Kalahari Melon Seed

Kapok Seed

Karanja

Kiwifruit Seed*

Kukui Nut*

Macadamia Nut

Macauba

Macauba Seed

Mafura Butter

Mango*

Mango Butter

Mangosteen Butter (Kokum Butter)

Manketti (Mongongo Nut)

Marigold (Calendula)

Marula

Meadowfoam

Millet

Mobola Plum (Parinari Kernel)

Moringa (Ben or Behen)

Mowrah Butter

Murumuru Butter

Neem

Noni Seed

Oat

Okra

Olive

Palm**

Palm Kernel

Papaya Seed

Passion Fruit Seed

Pastel

Pataua Fruit

Pataua Seed

Peach Kernel

Peanut

Peach Kernel

Pecan

Pequi

Perilla Seed

Pine Nut

Pistachio Nut

Pomegrante

Poppy Seed

Pracaxi

Prickly Pear

Prickly Pear Seed (Opuntia)

Prunus Kernel

Pumpkinseed*

Quinoa

Ramtil

Raspberry Seed

Rhatany Root

Rice Bran

Rose Hip Seed

Safflower

Sal Butter (Shorea Butter)

Sapote

Saw Palmetto

Sea Buckthorn Fruit*

Sea Buckthorn Seed*

Sesame

Shea

Shea Butter

Shikonin Seed

Sisymbrium*

Soybean*

Strawberry Seed

Sunflower

Tamanu*

Tamarind Seed

Tomato Seed

Tucuma

Tucuma Butter

Ucuuba Butter

Walnut

Watermelon Seed

Wheat Germ*

Wolfberry

Ximenia Seed

Yangu

Vegetal/carrier oils denoted with one asterisk (*) in the list above can be combined with one of the other vegetal/carrier oils to comprise a percentage of the total mixture. This is usually done since some oils are best used in smaller amounts, as well as to create a blend that has a smooth texture and can be absorbed into the skin during a massage.

The vegetal/carrier oils denoted with two asterisks (**) harden at below room temperature and are appropriate as an ingredient when making an ointment or skin cream.

The specific percentage is indicated under the Practical Uses for each individual oil that has an asterisk. For example, a good formula for 1 ounce (30 milliliters, or ml) of a skin-rejuvenating facial oil would be:

When combining essential oils with the carrier oil(s), blend 10 to 15 drops of the essential oils into 1 ounce (30 ml) of carrier oil. Or you can prepare a smaller formula using less carrier oil and fewer essential oils proportionately.

Thus, with the addition of specific essential oils, the formula for the skin-rejuvenating facial oil becomes:

For facials, only certain non-skin-irritating essential oils should be used.

After using the formula, place a label on the bottle and store for use at another time.

When mixing essential oils with the carrier oil(s) for massage purposes on the body, blend 12 to 30 drops of the essential oils into 1 ounce (30 ml) of carrier oil. An example of two massage oil blends for relaxation/stress reduction would be:

Massage Oil Blend I

Massage Oil Blend II

After the massage, if you have oil from the formula left over, place a label on the bottle to use another time.

Helpful Measurement Equivalents

PLEASE NOTE:

Practical Uses refers to tried and proven everyday aromatherapy uses. Documented Properties refers to properties documented in other publications.

ACAI FRUIT

ACAI SEED

Botanical Name: Euterpe edulis, Euterpe oleracea

Family: Arecaceae

The fruit oil is obtained from the fruit.

The seed oil is obtained from the seeds.

History and Information

•  Acai is a palm tree native to Central and South America. The tree grows in swamps and reaches a height of about 90 feet (27.5 meters). The flowers are white and are followed by small purple berries with seeds. Acai belongs to a group of palm trees called cabbage palms and is also known as assai.

•  The fruits and roots have been used for digestion problems.

•  In Brazil, a tea made from the roots is taken as a blood purifier and to help strengthen the liver. The seeds are roasted and made into a drink similar to coffee.

•  The fresh fruit has a short shelf life, therefore products have to be produced from it rather quickly. The fruit is high in vitamin C.

Practical Uses

Skin regeneration, skin care

Hair care

Documented Properties

Antioxidant

ALMOND (Sweet)

Botanical Name: Prunus amygdalus, Prunus dulcis

Family: Rosaceae

The oil is obtained from the nuts.

History and Information

•  Sweet almond is native to Asia and the Mediterranean region, and is found in dry soils. The medium-sized tree grows to a height of about 35 feet (10.5 meters) and has pinkish-white flowers. There are approximately fifty species of the wild almond trees, but only a few varieties produce a sweet kernel. The cultivated types of almond trees require cross-pollination with another variety. It is estimated that the almond tree was cultivated in the Mediterranean region about 5,000 years ago and in China about 3,000 years ago.

•  Pliny, the Roman herbalist, listed the use of almonds as a treatment for many disorders.

•  Throughout the years, women have used almond oil on their face to promote a nice complexion and massaged the oil into their skin to give it elasticity and to prevent wrinkles.

•  In Ayurvedic medicine, almonds are taken as a laxative; and it is said they improve eyesight. The nuts and oil are considered aphrodisiacs.

•  In Europe, before the eighteenth century, almonds were powdered, soaked in water, and made into a nutritional beverage as a substitute for milk.

•  In China, almonds and brown rice are ground up into a powder and taken with water and honey to help or prevent dry throats and other dry conditions.

•  In Asia, almonds are eaten to improve memory.

•  Numerous studies show almond consumption is helpful in atherosclerosis prevention (Shi, Functional Foods of the East, pg. 369).

•  Almonds are rich in calcium, potassium, magnesium, iron, and phosphorus, and have an oil content of 54 percent.

•  Almost all almonds grown in the United States are produced in California, which supplies more than half of the world’s production. The second largest producer is Spain. Almonds do poorly in tropical regions since high humidity during ripening may cause rancidity to develop in the kernels.

•  Almonds are the most consumed of all the nuts.

Practical Uses

Skin care; moisturizing to the skin

Hair care

Suntanning oil

The carrier/base oil is used to dilute essential oils in aromatherapy for massage oils and other formulations.

Documented Properties

Alterative, anti-inflammatory, antilithic, antipruritic, antitumor, astringent, carminative, demulcent, diuretic, emollient, galactagogue, laxative, nervine, tonic, vulnerary

Caution: The nuts contain cyanide. It is best to use small amounts of the oil at one time.

AMARANTH

Botanical Name: Amaranthus candatus, Amaranthus cruentus, Amaranthus hypochondriacus

Family: Amaranthaceae

The oil and CO2 extract are obtained from the seeds.

History and Information

•  Amaranth is an annual plant native to the Americas and India. The plant grows to about 3–5 feet (1–1.5 meters) with lance-shaped purple-green leaves and red flowers. Amaranth is also known as pigweed.

•  It is estimated that as far back as 4000 B.C. the grain was domesticated in Mexico.

•  The Aztecs believed the plant had supernatural powers and that the seeds, when eaten, would give them enormous strength.

•  In Peru, the flowers have been used for toothaches and fevers. The flowers are also made into a tea to normalize the menstrual cycle.

•  Amaranth has been used to heal wounds, stop nose bleeds, help mouth and throat sores, regulate excessive bleeding during menstruation, soothe inflammation, and for diarrhea.

•  The seeds are eaten as a cereal. They contain a highprotein content and many essential nutrients and amino acids. The leaves are used as a vegetable.

•  The red pigment of the flowers is used to color foods and cosmetics.

•  The oil is valued in skin care for moisturizing dry skin, improving elasticity, reducing wrinkles, slowing the skin-aging process, and providing healing properties to damaged and itching skin.

•  Quinoa is a close relative of amaranth.

•  Amaranth isn’t a grain.

Practical Uses

Skin care; moisturizing to the skin

Documented Properties

Astringent, cooling

ANDIROBA

Botanical Name: Carapa guianensis

Family: Meliaceae

The oil is obtained from the nuts.

History and Information

•  Andiroba is native to South America. The tree grows in wet locations to a height of about 400 feet (122 meters) and has fragrant flowers, followed by a nut. The tree is also known as Brazilian mahogany.

•  In South America, andiroba is used for wound and skin healing, lamp oil, and soap.

•  The oil has a short shelf life.

Practical Uses

Skin care

Documented Properties

Analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, emollient, febrifuge, parasiticide, vermifuge

ANNATTO

Botanical Name: Bixa orellana

Family: Bixaceae

The oil is obtained from the seeds.

History and Information

•  Annatto is native to tropical areas in America. The shrub grows to a height of about 20–30 feet (6–9 meters), has oval, leathery green leaves and pink blossoms resembling a rose, followed by a red fruit with small brown seed pods that are surrounded by a red powder. The shrub is also known as anatto, arnatto, and lipstick tree.

•  In Latin America, the plant has been used to get rid of intestinal parasites, reduce inflammation, as a tonic, and to heal the skin.

•  In Asia, the leaves and seeds are made into a tea to lower body temperature during fevers.

•  The pulp is recommended for epilepsy and skin conditions, and the seed oil is used for leprosy. The leaves are used for bronchial problems (as a gargle), jaundice, dysentery, and tumors. The gum from the leaves is used for gonorrhea and liver conditions (Daniel, Medicinal Plants, Chemistry and Properties, pg. 139).

•  The fruit produces a red juice that is used as a dye to color fabrics.

•  The yellow-orange seed oil is the coloring agent permitted for butter and cheese, and is also used for coloring fabrics, cosmetics, and soaps. The oil is topically applied to treat skin ailments.

Practical Uses

Skin care

Documented Properties

Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiseptic, antitussive, astringent, depurative, diuretic, emollient, expectorant, febrifuge, hepatic, hypotensive, parasiticide, purgative, stomachic

APRICOT KERNEL

Botanical Name: Armeniaca vulgaris, Prunus armeniaca

Family: Rosaceae

The oil is obtained from the kernels.

History and Information

•  Apricot is native to Asia. The tree grows to a height of about 35 feet (10.5 meters), has white to pink flowers and orange-yellow fruit.

•  Apricots have been grown for food for over 4,000 years.

•  The Hunza women use the oil to maintain a nice complexion and wrinkle-free skin.

•  In northern China, the apricot tree is primarily cultivated for its edible nuts, which are almost identical to almonds.

•  Amygdalin is present in apricot seeds and is also called laetrile and vitamin B17. It was used by natural practitioners to treat tumors and people claimed to have succeeded in overcoming their illness.

•  The oil is similar in texture and properties to almond oil.

Practical Uses

Skin care; moisturizing to the skin

The carrier/base oil is used to dilute essential oils in aromatherapy for massage oils and other formulations.

Documented Properties

Analgesic, anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitumor,