The Basic Basics Jams, Preserves and Chutneys Handbook: All You Need to Know to Prepare and Storeover 200 of the World's Best Preserves

This new edition published by Grub Street

The Basement, 10 Chivalry Road, London SW11 1HT

Copyright this revised edition © Grub Street 2001

Text copyright © Marguerite Patten, 1995 and 2001

First published in 1995 by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

The moral right of the author has been asserted.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Patten, Marguerite

The basic basics jams, preserves and chutneys

1. Cookery (Jam) 2. Canning and preserving 3. Chutney

I. Title II. Jams, preserves and chutneys

641. 8′52

ISBN 1-902304-72-1

Digital Edition: ISBN 9781908117731

All rights reserved. Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of

private study, research, criticism or review, as permitted under the

Copyright Act, no part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any

form or by any process without permission in writing from the publisher.

Typeset by Pearl Graphics, Hemel Hempstead

Printed and bound by Biddles Ltd, Guildford and King’s Lynn

I would like to acknowledge the helpful information about certain fruits in the following two books:

The Complete Book of Fruit, Leslie John and Violet Stevenson, 1979, Angus and Robertson.

The Fresh Fruit Cookbook, Vo Bacon, the Department of Agriculture, New South Wales, Australia.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

Throughout history we can read of efforts made to preserve food for use in winter. In the case of meats and fish this was done by salting or drying. Fruits and herbs were dried too. People preserved certain fruits in brandy and pickled suitable vegetables in vinegar. These preserves are excellent and the recipes are on pages 138 to 159.

Cane sugar, although known as a scarce luxury in the Western world since the fourteenth century, did not become a major food in Britain until the nineteenth century. Beetroot was a well-known vegetable but it was not grown for its sugar content until the discovery made by A. S. Marggraf in 1747. He realised that the sugar content of beet is similar to that of sugar cane. When sugar became plentiful, cooks could use it for all forms of cooking, which led to the development of preserving as we know it today. Fruits and vegetables of all kinds could be turned into delicious jams, and other produce, which were made for storage.

It was in Victorian and Edwardian times that great pride was taken in having plentiful stores of preserves. Housewives depended upon their own resources and filled capacious larders and store cupboards with their home-made handiwork. Cookery books of that era abounded with recipes for jams, jellies and catsups (known nowadays as ketchups) together with chutneys and pickles of all kinds. Many of the recipes we use today are similar to the ones created in those faraway days. Thanks to the popularity of ethnic foods and various restaurants we have had the chance to sample preserves from all around the world, some of which are classics in their own countries. Fascinating recipes from abroad are included in this book.

Nowadays, with smaller houses and less storage space, together with the availability of commercially made preserves, huge stocks of the home-made variety may not be required, but there are few things that give one more pride and pleasure than carefully selected home-made jams, pickles or other foods. You can choose just those fruits or vegetables that please you most and base your preserves on them. With the wonderful range of exotic fruits and vegetables brought into our country nowadays it is possible to make chutneys, pickles and jellies, etc., which may not be on sale.

Home-made products, if made correctly, generally have a better flavour than those produced commercially in large quantities and, in consequence, have a great appeal. As many readers will know, jars of home-made preserves make wonderful presents and they are an excellent way of raising funds at charity bazaars – they can even become a source of income. If one compares the cost of making preserves at home with the cost of buying them, you realise that you can save an appreciable amount of money and, at the same time, produce preserves that have a finer flavour, made just as you would like them. This means that you can retain large, chunky pieces of fruit by preparing conserves, rather than jams, or sieve the fruits to make old-fashioned traditional fruit cheeses, free from pips or stones and skins.

There is great emphasis today on reducing the amount of sugar we eat. However, it must be appreciated that sugar is a very important ingredient when making jams or similar products: it is the preservative. If you reduce the sugar content in the preserves, they will not keep well if stored under normal conditions. There are, however, ways of making low sugar preserves that will keep, either by sterilizing the jars when filled or by placing them in the freezer. These methods are described on page 15.

Preserves have to be made with care. There must be a correct relationship between the amount of fruit and sugar used, or sugar and vinegar in the case of chutney, to give the best flavour and texture and to make sure the preserves set and keep well. This is why it is important to read through the advice given at the beginning of each section, which sets out the ‘golden rules’ for that particular kind of preserve.

Bottling of fruit and vegetables is less popular today due to the success in freezing these ingredients. There are, however, certain foods, such as peaches and pears, which have a better flavour when they are bottled. Details of this method of preservation are given on pages 124 to 126.

The following pages offer advice on making preserves that will please you and your family and give you a real sense of pride in your achievements.

Marguerite Patten

ESSENTIAL

INFORMATION

In this section the most popular preserves – jams, conserves, jellies and marmalades – are given. Although the different groups of preserves vary in their requirements, they do have certain points in common.

Equipment: you should choose the equipment you use carefully; that does not mean you need to buy a lot of specialist equipment, for you may already own most of this. It is, however, sensible to read through the suggestions that follow and make sure you have everything in readiness before you begin making the preserve.

Speed of cooking: this is mentioned a great deal in the recipes in this section and it is important that the recommendations are followed. Simmering is essential when cooking the fruit in jams, jellies and marmalades. The speed of boiling when the sugar is added is equally important, see pages 18 to 19.

Testing: it is essential to test for setting point and details of how to test are on pages 8 to 9. These are followed by the method of testing the pectin content of the fruit.

Alternatives to sugar in preserves: sugar acts as the preservative; other forms of sweetening are not as effective but can be used to give a different flavour, see pages 11 and 12.

EQUIPMENT NEEDED WHEN MAKING PRESERVES

Although it is quite possible to make preserves with normal household utensils, it is worthwhile considering purchasing special equipment if you intend to prepare an appreciable amount of jams, jellies and chutneys. The first requirement is a large pan in which to cook the preserve.

Preserving pan: a large saucepan can be used but it is important that this is sufficiently large to allow rapid boiling, without fear of the contents boiling over. When making jam or jelly, the pan should never be more than half full of the fruit, or fruit juice, and sugar. This gives adequate space for rapid boiling.

Special preserving pans are wide in shape; this is ideal, for it aids evaporation and therefore allows the preserve to reach setting point more rapidly. Most preserving pans have a bucket-type handle so that the pan can be suspended when not in use, ensuring it is kept well aired. If possible, do not shut the pan away in a cupboard without good air circulation, for it may smell musty when used again. This could affect the flavour of the preserve unless the pan is well washed several times and then left in the air for as long as possible before use.

Pans made of aluminium or stainless steel can be used when making jams, conserves and other sweet preserves, and for chutneys and pickles. Enamel pans are excellent unless they are chipped, in which case they are unsuitable, for the acid in the fruit or vinegar (when making chutneys or pickles) would come into contact with the metal under the chipped enamel and this could affect the colour of the preserve. Iron or zinc pans are not suitable – they spoil both the colour and flavour of the fruit. Brass and copper preserving pans can be used when making jams and fruit preserves. If these are kept looking immaculate with metal polish, make absolutely certain the pans are well washed before use, so all traces of polish are removed. Even the slightest hint would adversely affect the taste of the preserve. Brass, copper or iron pans must not be used when making chutneys or pickles or sauces containing vinegar.

Pressure cooker or microwave: these can be used in making preserves, see the special instructions on pages 12 to 14.

Spoons and other utensils: a wooden spoon is ideal for stirring the preserve when dissolving the sugar. Buy one with a very long handle so your hands are kept as far away as possible from the extremely hot preserve. A perforated spoon (often called a slotted spoon) is ideal for removing scum from the preserve and also for removing stones from damsons, etc., when making the jam. A large metal spoon or ladle is needed if you are going to spoon the preserve into the containers. If you prefer to use a jug, then make sure this is heat-proof and has a handle so you can scoop up the preserve without burning your hands. A funnel, which can fit into the top of the jars or other containers, is another excellent way of filling them. Make sure the funnel is secure in the top of the container then spoon or pour the preserve through it. Its use avoids any possibility of the preserve dropping on to the surface of the jars or table.

Sugar thermometer: this is essential if you prefer to test for setting by temperature, as suggested on page 8.

Containers: most jams and conserves are put into jam jars. Standard jam jars are not sold, so keep any you have. Good stores sell a variety of glass containers which could be used. Put the waxed circles on to the jam, as described on page 19. Bottling jars could be used and are ideal for chutneys and pickles if they have glass lids – metal lids must not be placed on them (see page 139).

Covers: buy packs of special jam pot covers containing waxed rounds and transparent covers plus elastic bands. These are perfectly adequate for covering jams, conserves, jellies and fruit cheeses. Make sure you have the right size for the particular jars; the waxed circles should form a perfect fit over the hot preserve, so the air is excluded.

Muslin: this is needed to enclose pips and stones, as mentioned in various recipes. It can be used instead of the proper jelly bag, described on page 70. Buy muslin gauze from a chemist for this purpose.

Labels: these make the jars of preserves look more professional and are an ideal way of identifying the contents. Put the date on the label if you make a large amount of preserves, so they can be used in sequence.

Wooden board: most preserves are cooked to a very high temperature and the jars in which they are placed are very hot. It is essential to check that these are not put on cold or damp surfaces in the kitchen. It is wise to place them on a wooden board until the contents are cold.

Other useful utensils: use a sharp stainless steel knife when peeling, halving or chopping fruits, etc., so the colour of the food is not spoiled.

Use a special cherry stoner to remove the stones from the fruit. If this is not available, then substitute a firm, fine new hairpin. Insert the bent end into the cherry. Move it gently until you feel it has hooked around the stone then pull sharply, bringing the stone out. Whatever method you choose, stone the cherries over a basin, so no fruit juice is wasted. The juice is used in the preserve.

Use a hair or nylon sieve and not a metal one when sieving fruit or preserves containing acid ingredients, such as vinegar. Metal sieves spoil the colour slightly and tend to give a faint metallic taste to the preserve. Hair sieves were used in the past, well before nylon sieves were made. If you still own one of these excellent utensils, do not feel you must invest in a nylon sieve. The hair mesh is ideal for sieving acid fruits and for vegetables also.

Use a bowl of boiling water to remove the skins from peaches or tomatoes. Leave the fruit in this for about half a minute, remove and place in cold water, then pull away the skin.

SIMMERING THE FRUIT

Reference is made in most recipes to simmering the fruit, or fruit and liquid, before adding the sugar. The fruit should cook slowly until softened. The preserving pan is not covered during this period, so it is very important to check that the fruit does not stick to the pan and burn. Frequent stirring over a low heat will prevent this and will extract the maximum juice. If you are worried about the lack of juice, then add a little more water to the pan. The amount of water given in recipes is the minimum to use. If the fruit is rather firmer than usual, you will need a little more. Do not overcook the fruit during this first stage of cooking, for this will spoil both the colour and the taste of the preserve.

TESTING FOR SETTING POINT

There are various ways by which one can tell if a preserve has reached the correct setting point. With methods 1 and 2, below, remove the pan from the heat while testing the preserve. With method 3 move the thermometer around in the preserve, as described, then take the pan away from the heat as you check the reading.

It is stressed on page 18, point 9, that one should test for setting early so there is no possibility of the preserve becoming over-cooked.

There are fairly obvious signs when the preserve is reaching setting point: the fruit mixture does not rise as vigorously in the preserving pan, it makes more noise as it boils and fairly large bubbles begin to form on the surface of the preserve.

METHOD I – The Wrinkle Test

Spoon a little boiling preserve on to a cold plate or saucer. Allow this to become cool then push it with your finger. If the preserve has reached setting point the top will have set and the preserve will wrinkle when you push it with your forefinger. If the preserve shows signs of wrinkling only slightly, return the pan to the heat and give it another 1 or 2 minutes’ boiling, then test again.

METHOD 2 – The Flake Test

Take a clean wooden spoon, not one that may already have been used to stir the sugar as it dissolves. Stir the spoon around in the preserve until it is well coated then allow it to cool slightly. Hold the spoon horizontally over the preserving pan. If the preserve has reached setting point it will hang on the edge of the spoon, forming a flake, and this will not drop off until given a very vigorous shake.

METHOD 3 – The Temperature Test

Use a proper sugar thermometer. This is made to be placed into mixtures that reach high temperatures. Turn the thermometer around in the preserve so you have an overall reading, then check this.

Jams and marmalades reach setting point at temperatures between 104° and 105.5°C/219°F to 222°F; jellies between 104° and 105°C/219° to 221°F. Use the lower setting if you require a less firm preserve – this is recommended in the case of conserves (see page 57). The higher setting is better for fruit cheeses (see page 103). After use, take great care to place the hot thermometer on a wooden board, and not on a cold or damp surface.

METHOD 4 – The Yield Test

This test is really a confirmation that the cooked preserve has the right proportion of sugar, but it also acts as another check that you have a satisfactory preserve that will keep well.

The pectin in fruit makes the jam set but it is the sugar that acts as the preservative. Too little sugar means the preserve is unlikely to keep well unless special precautions are followed, as described on page 15. Jams and similar preserves should consist of 60% sugar if they are to keep well. At the top of each recipe you will find the approximate amount of preserve that should result, e.g.

From each 450 g/1 lb (2 cups) of sugar used you should make 750 g/12/3 lb of preserve.

If you find you have more than this, either reboil the jam for a short time or consider it has a lower than average sugar content and store it accordingly (see page 15). If you find you have less than this, sadly the jam will be somewhat oversweet and stiff. You probably boiled it for too long before testing for setting point.

Why do jams or similar preserves sometimes ferment?

There are a number of possibilities

• The fruit was over-ripe; while one should select ripe fruit for the best flavour, it must never be over-ripe.

• Too little sugar was used in the preserve. If the sugar content is reduced then the preserve must be used within a short time and stored in the refrigerator or frozen until required; or sterilised as pages 15 to 16.

• The preserve was poured into the jam jars before it was adequately set. See page 8 for methods of testing for setting point.

• The storage conditions were inadequate (see page 16). The storage cupboard or larder should be cool and dry.

• The preserve was not adequately covered. This means the preserve is not protected from adverse storage conditions, and is therefore more inclined to ferment or go mouldy (see page 19 – point 13 for details on covering jams and other preserves).

GOLDEN RULES

FOR SUCCESS

The points that follow are important for they can make the difference between first-class preserves and those that are only average in taste and texture.

The jam section begins on page 17 and the various fruits are in alphabetical order, though with some variations under the main recipes. Conserves – which can be termed a luxury preserve, with large pieces of fruit or whole fruit – begin on page 57.

Jellies are not only ideal as a sweet preserve to use as a filling in cakes, tarts and pastries; many form excellent accompaniments to main dishes. These begin on page 68, where you will find important information to ensure the jellies are full of flavour and beautifully clear in colour.

Marmalade is an essential preserve at breakfast time. There are many types of marmalade from which to choose and the recipes begin on page 87.

Fruit butters and cheeses are not as well known as they should be, for they are delicious. The recipes begin on page 103.

USING HONEY OR SYRUP IN PRESERVES

It is possible to substitute a certain amount of honey or golden syrup (corn syrup) for the sugar in jams, conserves, marmalade and fruit cheeses. An indication is given in recipes where these ingredients enhance the flavour of the fruit. It is still wise to use 75% sugar and only 25% honey or syrup. Even so, the preserve will be a little less stiff than when all sugar is used. Honey or syrup also give a pleasant taste to many sweet pickles and chutneys. These ingredients are included in some recipes in those sections, which begin on pages 138 and 160. A little black treacle, or molasses, gives an interesting taste to some marmalades and chutneys, see page 99.

TESTING FOR PECTIN CONTENT

The various recipes in this book are planned to give exactly the right amount of pectin for each type of preserve. It must be appreciated, however, that a fruit can vary a little in its pectin content. For example, strawberries are usually low in pectin but if you pick the fruit when it is absolutely perfect, i.e. just ripe but not over-ripe, and make jam within an hour of picking, the pectin content will be higher than average and you could manage with less lemon juice (see page 51). The test given on this page will enable you to make your own checks. You may decide to make preserves with a mixture of fruits and therefore not know just how good the pectin content will be. There is a simple way to check this.

1. Cook the fruit until soft then remove from the heat. Spoon a little fruit from the preserving pan, and strain this to give 2 teaspoons of juice.

2. Place the juice in a container and leave until cold.

3. To the 2 teaspoons of`juice, add 6 teaspoons of methylated spirit, stir or shake gently and leave for a minute.

4. a)  If the fruit contains a high percentage of pectin the mixture will form a clear jelly type lump. In this case no extra lemon juice need be added when making the preserve and ordinary sugar could be used.

    b)  If the fruit contains a medium amount of pectin the mixture will form several softer lumps. It would be advisable to add 1 tablespoon (1¼ tablespoons) lemon juice with each 450 g/1 lb (2 cups) sugar used to ensure a good setting preserve; or to use sugar containing extra pectin instead of ordinary sugar.

    c)  If the fruit contains a low amount of pectin virtually no firm lumps will form. In this case add 2 tablespoons (2½ tablespoons) lemon juice with each 450 g/1 1b (2 cups) sugar. If preferred, use the special sugar plus just 1 tablespoon (1¼ tablespoons) lemon juice to each 450 g/1 lb (2 cups) sugar. N.B. American measures are given in brackets.

USING COMMERCIAL PECTIN

It is possible to buy bottles of commercial pectin, which is a natural product based on apples. It helps all jams to set well but it also allows one to use a smaller proportion of fruit to the sugar content. This is extremely useful when fruit is scarce or very expensive. There is a selection of recipes provided with the product (trade name Certo) but an example is given on pages 55 to 56.

USING APPLE JUICE

Advice from the Diabetes UK recommends using unsweetened apple juice in some preserves. This adds natural sweetness and also helps the jam, or other preserve, to set. An example of a jam recipe using apple juice is on pags 130 to 131. Pure apple juice can be obtained from health food stores.

MICROWAVE OVENS FOR PRESERVES

It is possible to make many preserves in a microwave oven, although for small amounts only.

1. Always use