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    A Real Newfoundland Scoff: Using Traditional Ingredients in Today's Kitchens
    A Real Newfoundland Scoff: Using Traditional Ingredients in Today's Kitchens
    A Real Newfoundland Scoff: Using Traditional Ingredients in Today's Kitchens
    Ebook159 pages50 minutes

    A Real Newfoundland Scoff: Using Traditional Ingredients in Today's Kitchens

    By Liz Feltham

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    About this ebook

    “Quite a tasty treat, replete with anecdotes from the author’s childhood and lots of culinary history and Newfoundland foodways.” —Atlantic Books Today

    Inspired by her desire to stay connected to the food of her home province, culinary writer Liz Feltham goes back to her roots to bring fresh and modern twists to favorite Newfoundland meals, or “scoffs.” A Real Newfoundland Scoff provides recipes using traditional ingredients from the sea, land, air, bakeshop, and bar to create non-traditional dishes. Above all, Liz encourages readers to use this cookbook as a guide to exploring, discovering, and creating new versions of their old Newfoundland favorites.

    Packed with fifty-six new recipes, thirty color photographs, and a guide for buying Newfoundland ingredients in Atlantic Canada, this cookbook will appeal to all Newfoundland chefs, traditional and adventurous alike.

    “Feltham, a trained chef, treats popular traditional Newfoundland foods with respect and imagination . . . [She] writes with a warm and friendly spirit in this attractive book with lovely photographs by Halifax’s Scott Munn. You’ll never look at Newfoundland cuisine the same again.” —Atlantic Books Today
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherOpen Road Integrated Media
    Release dateMay 19, 2015
    ISBN9781771082709
    A Real Newfoundland Scoff: Using Traditional Ingredients in Today's Kitchens
    Author

    Liz Feltham

    Liz Feltham served as the restaurant critic at Halifax’s Coast weekly newspaper for nearly a decade. She specializes in culinary writing, having been certified as a journeyperson chef and having worked in kitchens from Whitehorse to St. John's. She is a contributor to a number of magazines and has authored several cookbooks, including Chowders and Soups, Fabulous Fishcakes, and Halifax Tastes. Liz can be found online at foodcritic.ca.

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      Book preview

      A Real Newfoundland Scoff - Liz Feltham

      Copyright

      Copyright © 2015, Liz Feltham

      All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written permission from the publisher, or, in the case of photocopying or other reprographic copying, permission from Access Copyright, 1 Yonge Street, Suite 1900, Toronto, Ontario M5E 1E5.

      Nimbus Publishing Limited

      3731 Mackintosh St, Halifax, NS B3K 5A5

      (902) 455-4286 nimbus.ca

      Printed and bound in China

      NB1159

      Design: Jenn Embree

      Cover photos: Sarah Pitcher (top) and Scott Munn (bottom)

      Food photographs: Scott Munn, photomunn.com

      Scenic photographs: Sarah & Dave Pitcher, except Bigstock (From the Bar) and Shutterstock (From the Sea, From the Land).

      Food styling, Partridgeberry Clafoutis: Jessica Emin

      Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication

      Feltham, Liz, author

      A real Newfoundland scoff : using traditional ingredients in today’s kitchens / Liz Feltham.

      Issued in print and electronic formats.

      ISBN 978-1-77108-269-3 (pbk.).—ISBN 978-1-77108-270-9 (html)

      1. Cooking, Canadian—Newfoundland and Labrador style. 2. Cooking—Newfoundland and Labrador. 3. Cookbooks.

      I. Title.

      TX715.6.F447 2015 641.59718 C2015-900240-0

      C2015-900241-9

      Nimbus Publishing acknowledges the financial support for its publishing activities from the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund (CBF) and the Canada Council for the Arts, and from the Province of Nova Scotia through Film & Creative Industries Nova Scotia. We are pleased to work in partnership with Film & Creative Industries Nova Scotia to develop and promote our creative industries for the benefit of all Nova Scotians.

      Dedication

      For my father, Dan McIsaac, a true hunter-gatherer. I didn’t realize back then the impact you would have on my culinary philosophy. Thanks, Dad. Loves ya!

      Introduction

      Twenty years ago a cookbook named Rabbit Ravioli crossed my path and changed the way I looked at the food of my homeland. The book, written by Newfoundland chef and restaurateur Kitty Drake, came out around the time of the cod moratorium and took an unconventional view of local fare. Being introduced to that book made me realize that I didn’t have to cook as traditionally as my mother did.

      Growing up in Newfoundland seems to be a bit of a culinary contradiction. While the seasoning palate was limited (salt, fat, and dried savoury), the self-sufficiency and ingenuity that our forefathers relied upon were still prevalent. Where they were restricted by lack of refrigeration, we were (and in many ways still are) restricted by lack of foodways. Most fresh produce is still shipped in trucks, facing a long haul from point of origin, across the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where the ferries are at the mercy of the weather, then the torturously slow stretch of the Trans-Canada Highway from Port-aux-Basque to Corner Brook, Grand Falls, Gander, and finally St. John’s.

      Because of the cost of shipping, fresh fruit and non-local vegetables were sporadically available, expensive, and never in the best shape. And so, the cuisine was nearly as limited in the 1970s as it was in the 1870s.

      David Feltham, the author’s father-in-law, with rabbits at Birchy Lake in Newfoundland.

      In our house, my father did as early settlers did: hunted grouse, snared rabbits, and went trout fishing. I remember standing at the sink with my mother as we cleaned grouse and rabbit. Later, in my professional cooking career, I loved working with game, a love no doubt instilled by these early food memories.

      As summer turned to fall, Sunday drives to the Avondale berry-picking grounds were the ritual. My mother, sister, and I would pick blueberries while my father and brother headed off with their rifles.

      We were, as many Newfoundlanders were, locavores out of necessity.

      Newfoundland cuisine is forged in the fires of the back-breaking work done by fishermen, which is what most of the early settlers were. Meals were heavy and starchy, to provide energy. Only the hardiest vegetables grew in the inhospitable soil: stunted carrots and turnips, potatoes, cabbage, and beets. Low-maintenance, easily adaptable livestock was kept. Sheep and goats provided outports with meat and milk. Pigs and cows came later.

      Everything was preserved, salted, tinned, or bottled: salt fish and salt beef; tinned milk, fruit, and vegetables; bottled jams, fish, and game. Many of these commercially canned goods are still in use today, some still from necessity, some for nostalgia.

      And interestingly, as the world is more accessible than ever, we are coming full circle. The eat local movement has taken off. People want to know where their food is coming from, how it’s caught, grown, and processed.

      The restaurant scene in Newfoundland, and in St. John’s in particular, has exploded on the world stage. An influx of offshore money and a worldlier audience have created a market to sustain a broader range of restaurants. Where once the Starboard Quarter and the Fishing Admiral were it for anything more than takeout, now there are exquisite dining rooms with passionate, talented chefs, showcasing the best the island offers. Jeremy Charles at Raymonds and Todd Perrin’s Mallard Cottage garner international acclaim. Bacalao, Aqua, Blue on Water take up the torch lit by the Stone House, the Cellar, and Bianca’s. Ten years ago—even five years ago—who would have thought that a Joe Batt’s Arm inn would be raking in awards and becoming a prime destination for global travellers, as the Fogo Island Inn is doing?

      Although I’ve lived in Nova Scotia for over a quarter century now,

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