Vine Varieties, Clones and Rootstocks for UK Vineyards 2nd Edition

Vine Varieties, Clones and Rootstocks for UK Vineyards

guide to the varieties of grape vine, clones and rootstocks suitable for wine production in Great Britain and other cool climates

Stephen Skelton MW

Copyright © Stephen Skelton 2020

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First published in paperback in Great Britain in 2014

Second Edition published in paperback in Great Britain in 2020

Edition 002a

All rights reserved. Apart from any use permitted under UK copyright law, this publication may only be reproduced, stored or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, with prior permission in writing of the publishers or, in the case of reprographic production, in accordance with the terms of licences issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Every effort has been made to fulfil requirements with regard to reproducing copyright material. The author and publisher will be glad to rectify any omissions at the earliest opportunity

Design and typesetting: Prepare to Publish (www.preparetopublish.com)

Also by Stephen Skelton MW

Other books written and published by Stephen Skelton MW

Viticulture – An introduction to commercial grape growing for wine production

The UK Vineyards Guide 2016

Wine Growing in Great Britain 2nd Edition – a complete guide to growing grapes for wine production in cool climates

The Wines of Great Britain (Published by Infinite Ideas Classic Wine Library)

Contents

Introduction to the 2nd Edition 2020

What varieties to plant

Varietal change

Still or sparkling?

Still wines hold their own

Oversupply of English and Welsh sparkling wine?

Sales of English and Welsh wines

Still or sparkling? – a summary

Vine variety recommendations

White traditional method sparkling wines

Rosé and red traditional method sparkling wines

Non-traditional method sparkling wines – Charmat and carbonated

Still white wines

Still red wines

Still rosé wines

Vine varieties for less favourable sites

Vine varieties for organic and biodynamic vineyards

Newer vine varieties

Blattner varieties

Vine varieties – the legal situation

Categories of wine that may be produced in England and Wales

Vine variety descriptions A–Z

Clones of Chardonnay, Pinot noir and Meunier

Pinot noir – still wine

Pinot noir – sparkling wine

Rootstocks for Great Britain

Appendix VI – The story of Wrotham Pinot

Introduction to the 2nd Edition 2020

The selection of a vine variety, a clone or a rootstock, whether for planting in Britain or any other part of the world, can only be taken with reference to three principal factors: the climate, which dictates the spectrum of varieties which can be grown; the quality of the site on which the vines are growing; and the type of wine to be produced. In cool climates, such as Britain’s, the choice of varieties is limited to those which will ripen sufficiently to produce good quality wine and which will produce yields which are high enough to make the considerable investment in a vineyard worthwhile. Growers are limited in the types of wine that can be produced successfully and their choice of varieties must be made on the basis of those varieties which will produce respectable wines year in and year out. Whilst it might be possible in some favourable years to produce good red wines using suitable varieties, in many years it will be a struggle, especially if top-quality wines are required. UK growers also have to be realistic about the limitations imposed by the climate and attempts to date to grow classic cool climate varieties such as Chenin blanc, Riesling and Sauvignon blanc have yet to produce acceptable wines on a regular basis, although if years like 2018 and 2020 are the ‘new normal’, then this might change.

However, cool climates are ideal for producing light fruity white wines, excellent rosés and light reds and of course superb bottle-fermented sparkling wines: blanc de blancs, classic cuvées and rosés. Chardonnay, today Britain’s most widely planted variety, has the distinct advantage in that it is an important constituent in sparkling wines and can be relied upon to produce useable crops year in and year out, yet in favourable years it can be harvested (perhaps after some judicious thinning) for very good still wines. Pinot noir, Britain’s second most widely planted variety, is again an important component in sparkling wines and can also, given the right clones, good husbandry and a favourable year, be made into excellent rosés and even a few really good reds. If the sugar levels achieved with Pinot noir in 2020 are going to happen more often (some growers reported over 14% natural alcohol) then English Pinot noir reds will start to challenge those from other ‘cool’ regions such as Burgundy, New Zealand, Tasmania and Oregon.

The question of site quality is also critical in cool climates, far more critical than in warmer regions, where the opposite problem – too much heat – may be more of a problem. In cool, marginal climates, elevated sites, sites exposed to cooling winds and sites facing away from the south will be less able to ripen certain varieties and it goes without saying that in general terms, the further north you are (in the northern hemisphere) the lower will be the average temperatures and the more difficult will be the task of setting good crops and fully ripening grapes. Having said that, it is always possible to find a sheltered south-facing site which will ripen grapes better than a site in an elevated position in a wind-swept part of the country further south. Site specifics are important as the quality of the site will dictate not only the quality of the wine, but also the quantity of wine produced. Being able to harvest ripe grapes is one thing; harvesting enough of them to make the enterprise financially viable is another. This is necessary if a sustainable enterprise, an enterprise that will outlive the enthusiasm (and possibly deep pockets) of its creator, is to be established.

This guide to vine varieties, clones and rootstocks for UK vineyards and other cool climates is a reprint of the chapter on the subject taken from Wine Growing in Great Britain 2nd Edition – a complete guide to growing grapes for wine production in cool climates and has been written for those wishing to grow grapes for commercial wine production in the UK and other cooler regions. Although it will also be helpful for amateur winemakers and garden vine growers, it does not deal with table grapes or decorative vines.

Reference is made in this book to various chapters. These are to be found in Wine Growing in Great Britain 2nd Edition from which the text for this book is taken.

What varieties to plant

After you have chosen your site, the next major decision is: which varieties do I plant? The answer, strangely, is actually quite easy: these should be the ones that (a) suit your site and (b) make the style of wine you will be able to sell! Of course, this is far easier said than done. Given that on a site with no previous history of growing vines – a common situation for many winegrowers in Britain – prior knowledge of what varieties ‘suit’ your site is, of course, difficult, but not impossible. And again, the question of what style of wine ‘you will be able to sell’ may be something you have not considered and is therefore also quite difficult to answer.

But, by asking these two questions it brings to the fore two essential points: the quality of your site will dictate the best varieties for you to establish on it; and you need to have a vision of the wine you would like to produce and how and where you propose to sell it before you plant. Do not fall into the trap of growing a variety that your site will not support, or attempting to make a wine for which there is a limited market. I often ask potential growers at my first meeting ‘which English wines have you enjoyed recently’ or ‘tell me what styles and types of English wines you like’ and it always amazes me how many look rather blank, shuffle around a bit and then mention one or two wines that they vaguely recall having tasted. In order to have a successful vineyard, especially if you are proposing to make and sell the wine, it is imperative that you should know and enjoy the product. The other major question of course is still or sparkling and this is dealt with at length later in this chapter.

The range of varieties available to plant is huge and, to the uninitiated, the question of which to plant is either a problem to be run away from or an opportunity to experiment. There are advantages and disadvantages of both views. For those who see the selection of varieties as a problem, the answer is to stick to the varieties that have proved themselves and which suit your site and the style of wine you wish to make. Don’t try and re-invent the wheel. If you were a grower in Chablis or Sancerre, Burgundy or Alsace would you be worried about what variety to plant? No. The appellation has already determined which varieties suit your region and whilst you may have the choice of clone – although even this is not certain – your task is to grow the best grapes you can.

The selection of the right varieties for your site, your financial position and your marketing plans is the most important decision you will have to take, apart from that of site selection itself. In taking this decision, the best advice I can give is to learn from others and to look backwards to what has been successful, rather than to look forwards and hope the obscure varieties you have heard about will produce award-winning wines. When looking backwards, I am guided by the collective wisdom of the 500-plus growers in Britain, by the membership of the UKVA and WineGB, and of the judges who judge the wines entered into the annual ‘Wine of the Year’ competition. If you just take the trophies and gold medals for both still and sparkling, and white, red and rosé wines, the list of successful varieties is actually very small. The only real criterion is to choose those varieties that have proved themselves capable of making high-quality wines, because it is only by making wines of high quality that your enterprise will be successful in the long run. I accept that looking back has its problems, as growers can only make wines from the varieties they have in the ground and, therefore, some of today’s (and yesterday’s) wines are made from varieties that, given a fresh start, many growers would never plant today and will certainly not plant again.

The late Mike Roberts and his son, Simon picking up some silverware at the House of Lords for their award winning Ridgeview wines

Varietal change

For those that see the selection of a variety (and, more often, varieties) as an opportunity to experiment, let me issue a health warning straightaway. Although we have seen considerable changes in the spectrum of varieties being grown in Britain since modern commercial vineyards started in the 1950s, some of