Lonely Planet Philippines

Philippines

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to the Philippines

The Philippines Map

Philippines’ Top Experiences

Need to Know

First Time Philippines

Month by Month

Itineraries

Diving in the Philippines

Outdoor Activities

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Regions at a Glance

ON THE ROAD

MANILA

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

AROUND MANILA

Corregidor

South of Manila

Tagaytay & Lake Taal

Taal

Batangas

Anilao

Mt Banahaw

Pagsanjan

Lucban

Lucena

North of Manila

Angeles & Clark Airport

Subic Bay & Olongapo

Mt Pinatubo Region

NORTH LUZON

Zambales Coast

Southern Zambales Coast

Iba & Botolan

North of Iba

Lingayen Gulf

Bolinao & Patar Beach

Hundred Islands National Park

San Juan (La Union)

Ilocos

Vigan

Laoag

Pagudpud & Around

The Cordillera

Baguio

Kabayan

Mt Pulag National Park

Sagada & Around

Bontoc

Around Bontoc

Kalinga Province

Banaue

Around Banaue

Kiangan

Northeast Luzon

Baler

San Jose

Northern Sierra Madre Natural Park

Tuguegarao

Santa Ana

Batanes Islands

Batan Island

Sabtang Island

Itbayat Island

SOUTHEAST LUZON

Bicol

Daet & Bagasbas

Naga

Mt Isarog National Park

Caramoan Peninsula

Tabaco

Legazpi

Around Legazpi

Sorsogon

Bulusan Volcano National Park & Around

Donsol

Pilar

Catanduanes

Virac

Puraran

Around Catanduanes

Masbate

Masbate Town

Marinduque

Boac

Gasan & the West Coast

East Coast

MINDORO

Puerto Galera

Calapan

Roxas & Around

Bulalacao

San José

Mt Iglit-Baco National Park

Sablayan

BORACAY & WESTERN VISAYAS

Boracay

Panay

Kalibo

Roxas

Antique Province

Iloilo

Guimaras

Negros

Bacolod

Mt Kanlaon Natural Park

Silay

Sagay

San Carlos

Sugar Beach

Punta Ballo

Apo Island

Dauin

Dumaguete

Valencia & Around

Bais City & Around

Siquijor

Larena

San Juan & Around

Lazi & Around

Cantabon

Romblon Province

Tablas Island

Romblon Island

Sibuyan Island

CEBU & EASTERN VISAYAS

Cebu

Cebu City

Around Cebu City

Malapascua Island

Bantayan Island

Toledo

Moalboal

Lilo-an & Sumilon Island

Camotes Islands

Pacijan Island

Poro Island

Ponson Island

Bohol

Tagbilaran

Panglao Island

Balicasag Island

Pamilacan Island

Cabilao Island

Chocolate Hills Loop

Anda

Ubay

Talibon

Leyte

Tacloban

Ormoc

Maasin

Padre Burgos

Panaon Island

Biliran Island

Naval

North of Naval

East & South of Naval

Higatangan Island

Maripipi Island

Samar

Catarman

Biri Island

Allen

Dalupiri Island

Calbayog

Catbalogan

Borongan

Guiuan

Calicoan Island

MINDANAO

Northern Mindanao

Cagayan de Oro

Camiguin

Surigao

Siargao

Southern Mindanao

Davao

General Santos

Lake Sebu

Mt Apo

Samal Island

Talikud Island

Western Mindanao & Zamboanga Peninsula

Zamboanga City

PALAWAN

Puerto Princesa

Sabang & the Underground River

Southern Palawan

Port Barton

San Vicente

Taytay

El Nido

Busuanga & the Calamian Islands

UNDERSTAND

History

People & Culture

Environment

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Children

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Air

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus & Van

Car & Motorcycle

Local Transport

Train

Health

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to the Philippines

As much as I like perfect beaches, it’s for the subtler things that I love the Philippines. It’s those long rooftop jeepney rides through the mountains of North Luzon, followed by a round of gin shots with indigenous elders in the da-pay (meeting area). It’s that fresh-fish lunch on an interminable bangka journey through Palawan. It’s a frosty San Miguel at sundown. It’s friends with names like Bing and Bong, and phrases like ‘comfort room’. It’s – dare I say it – karaoke. Now that’s love.

Dinagyang Festival | FROLOVA_ELENA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By Greg Bloom, Writer

png @AsiaBloom png goryogoesaround

For more about our writers.

Philippines’ Top Experiences

1ISLAND HOPPIN’

It’s the quintessential Philippines’ experience: board a trusty bangka (boat) and spend days – or weeks – navigating the country’s 7000 islands. Island-hopping tours are ubiquitous in Palawan and the Visayas, which are home to many of the dreamiest islands and most magnificent seascapes. Elsewhere you might negotiate with local boatmen to take you out to remote fishing villages where the daily catch is grilled for dinner.

Cadlao Island | DMITRY PICHUGIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bacuit Archipelago

Cruising through Palawan’s labyrinthine Bacuit Archipelago off El Nido is an experience not to be missed. These islands present a beguiling mixture of imposing limestone escarpments, palm-tree-lined beaches, paradisiacal lagoons and aquatic and terrestrial wildlife.

Kayaking, El Nido | R.M. NUNES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Calamian Islands

Isolated fishing villages, magnificent coral reefs and mysterious inland lakes abound in this archipelago in the far north of Palawan Province. Use the main island of Busuanga as a base for bangka or sea-kayaking expeditions to countless small islands where lonely beaches await.

Views of Coron Town from Mt Tapyas | SIMON DANNHAUER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Puerto Galera

This former galleon port-of-call boasts sensationally scenic bays and teeming marine life in the surrounding Verde Island Passage. Bangka, yacht and liveaboard trips, with a scuba-dive option, have gained steam since the pandemic due to Puerto Galera’s proximity to Manila.

Clownfish, Puerto Galera | OKSANA GOLUBEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2WALKS ON THE WILD SIDE

It’s not all about coastal pleasures in the Philippines. The major islands boast mountainous interiors carpeted by forests and pock-marked by caves, making them ideal for trekking and spelunking. North Luzon is the epicentre, with waterfalls cascading off jagged peaks, and rice terraces that soar so high they are known as the eighth wonder of the world.

Ifugao Rice Terraces

Hewn out of the hillsides by the Ifugao people centuries ago, the rice terraces around Banaue and Batad in North Luzon are truly spectacular. Take extra days to hike around lesser-known villages like Cambulo and Hapao.

Ifugao’s Rice Terraces, Batad | R.M. NUNES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Camiguin Island

Made for do-it-yourself adventurers, the peaks and valleys of volcanic Camiguin Island offer streams and canyons for scrambling, mountains for scaling, and pools at the base of thundering waterfalls in which to wash off the day’s exertions.

Katibawasan Falls | ADRIAN BAKER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sagada

A mellow mountain retreat deep in the heart of the wild Cordillera mountains of North Luzon, Sagada has all the elements of a backpacker Shangri-La: awesome hikes, eerie caves, hanging coffins, strong coffee, earthy bakeries, and cosy and cheap accommodation.

Sumaging Cave | CHRISTOPHER NICHOLS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3BEACH LIFE

Those looking for the perfect beach may finally find it in the Philippines: there is one made-to-order on each of the country’s 7000-plus islands. Whether you want to be far away from everybody, dancing to techno beats in the sand, kite-surfing the day away, or watching the sun drop with a fruity cocktail in your hand, you have come to the right place.

Siargao

For decades a well-guarded secret, Siargao has blossomed into the darling of Philippine tourism, offering crescent-shaped beaches, design-led boutique resorts and its signature tasty waves.

Cloud Nine | ZSTOCKPHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Siquijor

The magic of Siquijor lies in its ring road – 72km of nearly traffic-free coastal bliss. Bike past waterfalls and centuries-old churches in pursuit of radiant white sand beaches that you’ll have to yourself.

Siquijor | SOFT_LIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Boracay

Famously placed in ‘rehab’ in 2018, the diminutive party island reopened just in time for the pandemic to hit. With sublime White Beach looking better than ever, Boracay is poised for a major rebound.

Boracay | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4INTO THE DEEP

Plunge into nature’s washing machine: the Philippine Sea, world-renowned for its diverse marine life. The archipelago occupies the heart of the so-called Coral Triangle, and its reefs explode with colour and kooky-looking critters – a delight for seasoned scuba divers and casual snorkellers alike. If you’re in the right place at the right time you might spy whale sharks, dugong (sea cows) or sea turtles passing by.

Cebu

Coral walls ring nearly the entirety of this long central Visayan island, attracting divers to places such as Moalboal, where schooling sardines present an unmissable spectacle, and Malapascua, where thresher shark encounters await.

Whale shark, Cebu | RAZOR527/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Southern Negros

From the agreeable city of Dumaguete you are well-positioned to take in world-class diving at Apo Island, Dauin or Sipalay, or go dolphin- and whale-watching at Bais.

Anilao

The birthplace of scuba diving in the Philippines is back. The pandemic has Manila denizens rediscovering Anilao’s excellent dive sites and striking coastline, with fabulous dive resorts mushrooming to accommodate them.

Feather star crinoid, Anilao | ALONANOLA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

5GOING GREEN

As one of the most biodiverse places on the planet, the Philippines has plenty to protect. There are several laudable ecotourism initiatives and places where green tourism thrives. But you’ll need to do your homework to find them. Start by travelling independently, as many domestic tour operators don’t give a hoot about conservation, although there are notable exceptions.

Batanes Islands

Traditional customs endure in the northern Batanes chain. Basic homestays and cycling sum up the environmental ethos.

Sabtang Island | JOSEPH OROPEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bicol

Smouldering Mt Mayon commands the countryside of Bicol, a beacon for eco-conscious travellers drawn to the region’s national parks and marine life. Donsol is the place for eco-friendly whale shark interactions.

Mt Mayon | TRAVELPICS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Bohol

Cetacean watching with reformed poachers, river-kayak and SUP trips, a sanctuary for tarsiers, and responsible scuba diving at Balicasag Island are among the many highlights of Bohol, a wildlife mini-Mecca in the Visayas.

Tarsier, Bohol | HAVESEEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6CULTURE CLUB

The Philippines isn’t just about beaches and adventure. There are centuries-old stone churches, wooden houses that combine native and European elements, and heritage mansions that have been turned into lovely hotels. WWII buffs can visit sombre memorials across the archipelago that commemorate battles, landings and death marches. Those who prefer more contemporary culture can get their fill of the arts in cities like Manila and Cebu.

Manila

The megacity is Asia’s rising star in contemporary art and design circles, and even the long-maligned culinary scene is making a splash, as cutting-edge restaurants open alongside earthy cafes and craft-beer bars.

Vigan

Traditional kalesa (horse-drawn carriages) clank along cobbles in the remarkably well-preserved Old Town of Vigan, where Mexican, Chinese, Filipino and Spanish architectural styles mingle.

BarTech | AKARAT PHASURA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ati-Atihan

The Philippines just isn’t the Philippines without the colourful fiestas (festivals) that every township hosts annually. The January Ati-Atihan Festival, a week-long Mardi Gras in Kalibo, near Boracay, is the granddaddy of them all.

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Philippine peso (P)

Language

Tagalog (Filipino), English

Visas

Tourists of most nationalities receive a free 30-day visa on arrival. You can extend your visa for a fee, but be sure to check the current rules and fees before you travel.

Money

ATMs are widely available. Take some cash if travelling in remote areas; otherwise, credit cards are accepted at hotels, restaurants and some shops.

Mobile Phones

Local SIM cards are widely available, and data and phone credit is cheap. Roaming is possible but expensive.

Time

Asean common time (GMT plus eight hours)

When to Go

High Season (Dec–Apr)

A High season is dry season for most of the country; December to February are the coolest, most pleasant months.

A Many resorts triple rates around New Year and before Easter.

Shoulder (May & Nov)

A Rising May temperatures herald the onset of the wet season around Manila and elsewhere.

A November sees high-season rates kick in.

Low Season (Jun–Sep)

A Accommodation prices drop 30% in resort areas.

A Passing typhoons can cause days of torrential rain.

A Eastern seaboard is usually dry, if susceptible to typhoons.

Useful Websites

Philippine Newslink (www.philnews.com) Thorough pile of news, views, links.

ClickTheCity.com (www.clickthecity.com) A great listings site for happenings in Manila and around the country.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/philippines) Destination information, hotel reviews, traveller forum and more.

Experience Philippines (www.experiencephilippines.org) Tourism authority site; good for planning.

National Commission for Culture & the Arts (ncca.gov.ph) Arts listings and articles on all things Filipino.

Important Numbers

Dial icon-phonegif %0 before area codes when calling from a mobile phone or a landline outside that region.

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than P1750 (US$35)

A Dorm bed or single room: P400–800

A Local meals and three beers: P600

A Medium-range bangka or jeepney ride: P80

A Tricycle ride: P10

Midrange: P1750–5000 (US$35–100)

A Air-conditioned double room: P800–3000

A Restaurant meal with drinks: P700

A Group van or bangka tour: P1000

A Daily motorbike rental: P500

Top end: More than P5000 (US$100)

A Boutique resort: P3500–10,000

A Meal and drinks at a resort restaurant: P1500

A One-way domestic plane ticket: P2000

A Private island-hopping trip: P3000-6000

Opening Hours

Offices and banks are closed on public holidays, although shops and malls stay open.

Banks 9am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday (most ATMs operate 24 hours)

Post Offices 8am to 5pm Monday to Friday, to 1pm Saturday

Restaurants 7am or 8am to 10pm or 11pm

Arriving in the Philippines

Public transport from both the Manila and Cebu international airports requires changing jeepneys several times and isn’t advisable given that taxis are so cheap.

Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA; Manila) Yellow metered taxis are the best option for getting into town. They are cheap (P300 average to most hotels) and usually plentiful at all four NAIA terminals. Uber is another option, with fares averaging P350 to P450. Check carefully which terminal you arrive at (and, especially, depart from) – you’ll need up to an hour to switch terminals.

Mactan-Cebu International Airport (CEB; Cebu) You’ll find a taxi rank of regular metered taxis (P40 flag fall) on the right as you exit. Uber is also an option. Either costs about P300 to the city centre.

Getting Around

Air Several discount carriers link a vast range of destinations.

Boat Bangkas, ‘fastcraft’, car ferries and large passenger ships with bunk beds and private cabins link the islands.

Van Often the quickest overland option and generally shadows the same routes as buses.

Bus Comfort and reliability runs the gamut from hobbling skeletons way past their expiration date to long-haul, modern vehicles with air-con and wi-fi.

Tricycle These sidecars bolted to motorcycles are everywhere and will transport you several blocks or kilometres. Being replaced with quieter e-trikes in some places.

Jeepney Workhorse of the Philippines, both within cities and towns, as well as between more far-flung destinations.

For much more on getting around.

First Time Philippines

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Print out your onward ticket – airlines won’t allow you to board a Philippines-bound flight without it.

A Make sure your passport is valid for six months past your arrival date.

A Check airline baggage restrictions.

A Inform your debit-/credit-card company.

A Arrange for appropriate travel insurance.

What to Pack

A Sunglasses and sunscreen

A Earplugs – roosters and karaoke operate at full volume

A Headlamp – brownouts, blackouts and no electricity are common

A Cash is king so bring a waist-belt to keep it secure

A Sarong or pullover for those ridiculously cold air-con buses and ferries

A Dry bag

A Mask, snorkel, rash guard and reef booties for snorkelling

A Water bottle

Top Tips for Your Trip

A If you’re comfortable on a motorbike, it’s a great way both to overcome unreliable bus schedules and to experience the sights and sounds of ordinary rural life.

A Stay flexible so you can reroute if a typhoon is approaching your projected path. Advance transport and hotel bookings usually aren’t a necessity outside of ‘superpeak’ periods.

A Keep track of weather-related disturbances through www.typhoon2000.ph and www1.pagasa.dost.gov.ph .

A Bring a water bottle and fill it up for P5 (or for free) at ubiquitous water-refilling stations.

A Basketball players rejoice: nearly every village, no matter how small and remote, has a court. Call ‘next’ and be ready to compete.

A Schedule at least half a day for connecting flights back to Manila or Cebu, to account for possible delays.

What to Wear

Because of the tropical climate, the Philippines by necessity is a casual place. That being said, despite the heat most Filipinos look fairly unfazed – of course, they’re used to it – and tend to wear trousers in urban areas (offices of course) and for trips to the mall.

In beach towns, flip-flops or sandals, shorts, T-shirts or tank tops, and a bathing suit (bikinis are fine) are all you’ll need. Outside of beach settings, lightweight and comfortable is the way to go. In rural areas and villages, locals tend to avoid overly revealing clothing – although again, shorts and flip-flops are the norm for both sexes.

In Muslim areas of Mindanao, locals dress more conservatively. Women, especially, avoid wearing revealing clothing.

Sleeping

During the high season, reservations are recommended at popular tourist areas such as Boracay or El Nido. At other times, you should do fine walking in.

Resorts These range from ultraluxurious, the rival of any in Southeast Asia, to basic, fan-cooled bungalows.

Hotels Many cater to the domestic market, which means generic concrete construction and air-con. Five-star hotels in Manila are truly sumptuous affairs.

Pensionnes Sort of a catch-all term referring to less expensive, independently owned hotels.

Hostels Those that target foreign travellers tend to be more comfortable and stylish, but also more expensive, than ones for primarily young Filipinos.

Etiquette

Anger management Don’t lose your temper – Filipinos will think you’re loco-loco (crazy).

Food Abstain from grabbing that last morsel on the communal food platter – your hosts might think you’re a pauper.

Transport For transport frustrations, smile and adopt the Filipino maxim – bahala na (whatever will be will be).

Karaoke When engaged in karaoke (and trust us, you will be), don’t insult the person who sounds like a chicken getting strangled, lest it be taken the wrong way.

Jeepneys Don’t complain about neighbours getting cosy with you on jeepneys – space is meant to be shared.

Restaurants Filipinos hiss to gain someone’s attention, often in restaurants to signal the waiter. It’s not considered rude.

Language

English is widely spoken in urban centres and areas frequented by tourists. Even in the most rural areas, a few basic expressions might be understood. Along with English, the other official language is Tagalog (Filipino). The country’s unique colonial history means Spanish speakers will recognise many words. While Filipino is the lingua franca, there are 165 other languages spoken throughout the archipelago – Cebuano (Visayan) and Ilocano are two of the most widespread.

Bargaining

Modest haggling is expected at many outdoor markets, particularly if those markets cater to tourists. Note, though, that prices for food and drink are usually set.

Bargaining is the rule when renting motorbikes or hiring tricycles, bangkas or taxis for the day. It is also possible to negotiate with hotels if you don’t have a booking, especially in resort areas in the low season.

Tipping

Restaurants 10% service charge added to bill in cities, tourist hotspots. Otherwise leave 5% to 10%.

Taxis Round up taxi fares, but consider tipping more (P50 to P70) for honest taxi drivers who turn on the meter.

Hotels Not expected, but slide P50 to porters or leave a few hundred pesos in the staff tip box at resorts.

Guides Always tip your guides; they can really use it.

Basketball game in a village in El Nido | STEPHANE BIDOUZE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Ati-Atihan Festival, January

Moriones Festival, April

Crucifixion Ceremonies, April

Rodeo Masbateño, May

MassKara Festival, October

January

New Year is a ‘superpeak’ period, and hotel rates can quadruple in resort areas. Away from the eastern seaboard, the weather is usually pretty good – relatively cool and dry, although rain can linger into January.

z Ati-Atihan Festival

The Philippines’ most famous and riotous festival is this weeklong mardi gras in Kalibo, Panay, which peaks in the third week of January. Other towns in the region, such as Cadiz and Iloilo, hold similar festivals on the weekend nearest 26 January.

Ati Atihan Festival, Kalibo | TUUL & BRUNO MORANDI/GETTY IMAGES ©

z Procession of the Black Nazarene

A life-size and highly revered black image of Christ in Quiapo Church (Manila) is paraded through the streets in massive processions on 9 January and again during the week before Easter (Holy Week).

z Sinulog Festival

The granddaddy of Cebu’s fiestas sees celebrants engaged in sinulog dancing, a unique two-steps-forward, one-step-back shuffle meant to imitate the rhythm of the river.

February

It’s peak season for foreign travellers, so book ahead. The Christmas winds continue to howl, thrilling kitesurfers, while surf season continues in San Fernando (La Union) and butanding (whale shark) activity picks up in Donsol.

z Chinese New Year

The lunar new year in late January or early February is popular even among non-Chinese Filipinos. Dragon dances, street parties and huge fireworks displays take place in Manila.

z Panagbenga Flower Festival

During the last week in February, the streets in the northern mountain city of Baguio come alive with song, dance and a grand floral parade with spectacular floats.

March

Temperatures begin to rise in March but it’s still dry throughout the country. Holy Week sometimes falls at the end of the month.