TESTED Uren ey *Standard and Quilting Soles: “Attaching the Walking Foot -Matching Stripes and Plaids *Stitch-in-the-Ditch Quilting * Straight Line Quilting “Decorative Stitch Quilting moveable portion of the sole that “pinches” fabric layers together as they feed under the foot. The Walking Foot can be used with most. stitches; however, the maximim recommend- ed length for reverse motion stitches is 3mm. ‘Two seam guides are included with the foot; they attach to the back of the foot and are held in place by a removable collar. Newer versions of Foot #50 come with 2 soles ~ the standard one and an open one for quilting. Foot Facts Walking Foot #50 is designed to feed fabrics that don't ordinarily move evenly - pile fab- rics, such as velvet, velveteen, and corduroy; slipper fabrics:such as satin, sateen, and silk; “sticky” fabrics such as vinyl; and layered fabrics, such as quilts. It is also useful for ensuring that matched stripes and plaids don't shift as they are stitched. g ea When stitching problem fabrics, upper layers may slide, rather than moving along with the lower layer. This can cause stretched seams and mismatched layers. ‘As the needle of the machine goes up, the feed dogs rise and pull the fabric toward the back of the machine. The feed dogs then lower and move back to their forward posi- tion. This cycle repeats with every stitch. The Walking Foot #50 has a rubber coating on a 1998 Unit G, Page 11Standard and Quilting Soles as needed The newest version of the Walking Foot has two interchangable soles - the Standard Sole and the Quilting Sole. (Previous versions of Foot #50 had only a Standard Sole.) The Quiltirig Sole is very similar to the Standard Sole, but has bar between the toes removed so the open- ing in front of the needle is similar to that of the Open Embroidery Foot #20 or #20C. This provides full visibility of the needle, allowing precise placement of stitches, an important con- sideration when following a quilting design. The Standard Sole offers the most The' Quilting Sole offers more visibility ‘support for matching plaids and stripes. of the stitching area for following It is also good for fabrics which tend to ‘specific design lines such as quilting stick - leather, plastic, vinyl, and those patterns and stitching-in-the-ditch, that slip - satin, velvet, corduroy. Changing Soles Loosen the screw found below the “BE” of “BERNINA” on the right side of the foot. (It will only take about 3-5 counterclockwise turns to loosen the screw.) A small screwdriver is-included with the foot for this purpose. Remove the sole, noting that the lugs on either side of the collar fit into holes on each side of the sole. Insert the other sole, positioning the lugs in the holes. Tighten the screw. 1998 Unit G, Page 12Attaching the Walking Foot | Straight 1 | Width Omm { [Length — 25mm-2.5mm | [Needle center position » | Attaching the Walking Foot #50 to the sewing machine is easy when you know how! Follow these simple steps to ensure that the Walking Foot feed dogs will work together with the sewing machine feed dogs to move fabric evenly under the foot. 1. Hold the foot sideways behind the needle, with the toes pointing to the right. The “Bernina” label will be facing the front. Place the attachment base under the cone. 2. Rotate foot so that the toes point forward. In the same motion, bring the fork over the needle clamp. 3. Raise the foot and secure it in place with the clamping lever. TIP: Place the needle in the highest position and lower the feed dogs for additional maneuvering space. Remember to raise them again before sewing. Note: On newer versions of the Bernina Walking Foot, there is a cut-out on the upper portion where the shank slides onto the cone. For this foot, start with. the fork facing forward and slide it over the needle clamp while placing the cone into the shank (steps 2 and 3).Matching Stripes & Plaids | Straight | Width Omm ' j Length = 2:5mm-2.5mm | | Needle center position . | Some sewers avoid,using stripes and plaids, as they sometimes shift while seaming. No more! Use Walking Foot #50 (Standard Sole) to keep matched stripes in place. Pin fabric sections together, inserting pins crosswise. Stitch as desired. When stitching garments, match stripes wherever possible: front seams, back seams, side seams and shoulder seams are the most noticable. When constructing a yoked top, run the yoke stripes perpendicular to those in the main body of the fabric. Not only does this eliminate matching the stripes, it « also sets‘off the yoke, making it more visible. i Stitch-in-the-Ditch Quilting Omm 2.5mm - 3.5mm center position | Length | Needle Pinte we I 1 | 1 | 1 1 1 1 | ! | | | | Patchwork blocks, sashing, and borders are | frequently quilted “in-the-ditch” - that is, in the | groove created by the seamline. Use Walking | Foot #50 (Quilting Sole, if available) to keep | the layers of patchwork, batting, and backing | ftom shifting as the piece is quilted. | After pinning or basting the layers of the quilt | together, position the quilt under Foot #50. | The “ditch” created by the seam between | adjoining fabrics is easily visible | To secure stitching, | lower the feed dogs | and sew 4-5 stitch- | @8 in place. Raise | the feed dogs and | continue stitching, | keeping the “ditch” ! positioned directly under the needle. | Secure stitches at | the end of the row | by lowering the | feed dogs and stitching in place. ross Check Buttonhole Foot #3 and #3C Edgestitch Foot #10 and #10C Unit G, Page 14Straight Line Quilting Decorative Stitch Quilting r 3 | Straight a4, Straight - 1 | Width Omm ! ! width varies ti [Length = 2.5mm-3mm | [Length varies [Needle center position | | _ [Needle center position Quit channels, grids, and diamonds - without puckering! Parallel lines are easy to stitch using Walking Foot #50 (Quilting Sole if available) with its right and left seam guides. | Use decorative stitches in place of straight | when sewing the techniques discussed in.” | the previous column. Walking Foot #50 | (Quilting Sole if available) keeps the fabric layers from shifting as the stitches are sewn | over the seamiines. | | Baste or pin the quilt layers together. Thread | the machine with decorative rayon or cotton ' embroidery thread. Select a stitch and sew as desired, using the Securing function (if | available) to secure the ends of the stitching. | Change threads and/or stitches throughout | the quilt. Hint: Use a variegated thread for ! the effect of changing thread colors without rethreading! Pin or baste all quilt layers together. Mark’ one straight line of the design on the quilt. Stitch along this line. Attach the right or left guide to Foot #50 by holding the collar in place and inserting the guide. Adjust the guide as desired, then tight- en the screw to hold it firmly in place. Adjust the quilt to the “right of left so that the guide is aligned with the first row of stitch- ing. Stitch, keeping the guide along this line. Repeat as desired for multiple rows, Note: When using the Walking Foot with reverse motion stitches, 3mm is the . maximum recommended stitch length. Grid: > Diamonds: Mark a second line Mark a second line at an Perpendicular to the first. angle to the first. = we 7, ©1998 Unit G, Page 15Sewing Specialty Fabrics. | Double Overlock AAAA or 1 1 | Zigzag AAA ! I Width as needed I | Length as needed | ¢ | Needle center position 1 be Many sewers find that some fabrics - velvets, satins, fleece - are “difficult” to stitch. They either do not feed well, or they tend to slip. Using Walking Foot #50 (Standard Sole) and the correct stitches makes these materials easy to sew! Straight Stitc corduroy, and quilted fabrics. Set the sewing machine for a straight stitch with a length of 2mm - 2.6mm. : Great ‘for bulky fabrics such as fleece, \ Double Overlock Stitch: Good on fabrics that tend 7 to ravel or fray - satin and taffeta, and slippery pile fabrics, such as velour and velvet. Set machine for a double overlock stitch with a stitch width of 5mm and a stitch length of 2m. Zigzag Stitch: Perfect for stitching fake fur. A stitch | width of 2.5mm and stitch length of 0.5mm eliminates “stitch holes” that would be left by a straight stitch. Note: Use Universal needles in a size 90 or 100. | s ROT ©1998 Unit G, Page 16