TOMATO

Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), popularly known as “Kamatis” in the Philippines, is a savory,

typically red, edible fruit, as well as the plant which bears it. The tomato fruit is consumed in diverse ways,
including raw, as an ingredient in many dishes and sauces, and in drinks. While it is botanically a fruit, it is
considered a vegetable for culinary purposes, which has caused some confusion.

The tomato belongs to the nightshade family. The plants typically grow to 1–3 metres (3–10 ft) in
height and have a weak, woody stem that often vines over other plants. It is a perennial, although often
grown outdoors in temperate climates as an annual.

Tomato is the top source of Vitamin A and C. It also contains a significant amounts of dietary fiber,
beta-carotene, iron, lycopene, magnesium, niacin, potassium, phosphorus, riboflavin and thiamine. Tomato
is low in saturated fat, cholesterol and sodium. And unlike most foods, cooking or processing of tomato
(e.g. tomato paste, catsup, tomato soup, tomato sauce) is beneficial to health. Heating up tomato breaks
down its cell walls and releasing more lycopene, a phytochemical that is good to our health.

Tomato is one of the most important vegetable crops in the Philippines. It is grown for both home and
market in almost any community in the country.

History

The wild species originated in the Andes Mountains of South America, probably mainly in Peru and
Ecuador, and is thought to have been domesticated in pre-Columbian Mexico; its name is derived from the
Náhuatl (Aztec) word tomatl. The tomato was introduced to Europe by the Spanish in the early 16th century,
and the Spanish and Italians seem to have been the first Europeans to adopt it as a food. In France and
northern Europe the tomato was initially grown as an ornamental plant and was regarded with suspicion as a
food because botanists recognized it as a relative of the poisonous belladonna and deadly nightshade.
Indeed, the roots and leaves of the tomato plant are poisonous and contain the neurotoxin solanine.

Description
Tomato, Lycopersicum esculentum (syn. Solanum lycopersicum and Lycopersicon lycopersicum) is an
herbaceous annual in the family Solanaceae grown for its edible fruit. The plant can be erect with short
stems or vine-like with long, spreading stems. The stems are covered in coarse hairs and the leaves are
arranged spirally. The tomato plant produces yellow flowers, which can develop into a cyme of 3–12, and
usually a round fruit (berry) which is fleshy, smoothed skinned and can be red, pink, purple, brown, orange
or yellow in color. The tomato plant can grow 0.7–2 m (2.3–6.6 ft) in height and as an annual, is harvested
after only one growing season. Tomato may also be referred to as love apple and originates from South
America.

PROPAGATION

1. Soil and Climatic Requirements

The crop can be grown successfully in a wide range of soil types. For large yields, as the production of the
crop for processing, silt loamy soils, clay loamy soils and loamy soils are ideal. Where the growing season
is short and earliness is desired, sand or sandy loamy soils are preferred. Tomato requires warm weather and
plenty of sunshine or a relatively long season to produce profitable yields.
 2. Raising of Seedling

For backyard or school gardens, use seedboxes and for large scale field planting, use seedbeds. The
seedbeds or seedboxes are prepared in the same manner as they are prepared for cabbage, cauliflower, etc.
Shallow furrows, about 15 cm. apart are made across the length of the seedbeds or seedboxes with the use of
bamboo slat or wood with a wedge shape on one side. The seeds are sown thinly and evenly into the
shallow furrows, covered thinly with fine soil and watered. About two weeks from sowing, the developing
seedlings are fertilized with a fertilizer solution prepared by dissolving 8 level tbs. Of ammonium sulfate
fertilizer in 5 gal. of water. After sprinkling the fertilizer solution, the seedlings are rinsed with tap water.
In 25 to 30 days from sowing, the seedlings are ready for field planting.

3. Land Preparation

The land is plowed and harrowed several times until a fine tilth is obtained. For heavy soils, it is best to dry
the plowed land for a week and then to flash irrigated the land. As soon as the soil becomes workable, the
land is harrowed and leveled. Double-furrows,
about 15 cm. deep and 50 cm. apart, are made with the use of a plow with the board removed or with a
furrower. The double rows are spaces one meter apart.

4. Fertilization

Under many conditions, the application of 345 to 400 kg. per ha. of a 12-24-12 fertilizer mixture is suitable.
The fertilizer is applied into the furrows immediately before or at planting time. When the plants start to
bloom or when there are some small fruits developing on them, sidedress with nitrogenous fertilizers. About
100 to 150 kg. of ammonium sulfate fertilizer per hectare would be sufficient. Side dressing should be done
at bedding or banking time.

5. Transplanting

The seedbeds or seedboxes should be watered sufficiently before lifting the seedlings. The seedlings are set
immediately after the furrows are made and the fertilizer is applied. The seedlings are set 50 cm. apart in the
furrows. Water the newly transplanted seedlings. Replant all missing hills within one week from
transplanting.

6. Cultivation, Weeding and Irrigation

About a month from transplanting, the double rows of plants are bedded or banked using a small tractor
provided with a ridge or a plow. Bedding or banking provides soil mulch and thus eliminates later
cultivation and weeding, and also facilitates irrigation. The frequency or irrigation depends upon the
weather condition and type of soil. Light soils may require more irrigation than heavy soils. The irrigation
water is allowed to pass between the bedded or banked double-rows of plant, taking care not to allow
overflowing.

7. Control and Pests of Diseases

 Pest and Their control: The common pest of tomato is the tomato fruit worm (Helicoverpa armigera
(Hubner) Chadwich. This pest can be controlled by spraying with Sevin at the concentration of 3 to 4
leave tbs. per 5 gal. of water. The plants should be sprayed before the fruits begin to appear. Spraying
is continued at one to one and one-half week intervals. This will also control the lady beetle
(Epilachna Philippinensis Dieke) commonly feeding on the leaves.
  Diseases and their Control: The most serious disease of tomato is bacterial wilt. Do not plant on
lands heavily infested with the causal organisms. The other diseases of tomato are (a) Anthracnose
that can be controlled by spraying with Zarlate, Dithane Z-78, or Manzate at 2 lb. per 100 gal. of
water at weekly intervals; and (b) leaf mold which can be controlled by spraying with Cupravit,
Zerlate or Orthocide at 2 lb. per 100 gal. of water.

8. Harvesting, Curing and Storing

Tomatoes are harvested or picked at several stages of maturity, depending upon how they are to be marketed
or used. For distant markets, pick the green wraps, breakers and some pinks. For nearby markets or home
use, pick the red- ripe fruits. Green wraps are mature fruits the color of which is still green. Pinks are
characterized by the first discoloration of half of the fruit. For distant markets, the fruits are packed in boxes
or baskets that are loaded in trucks. In picking, care should be taken to avoid bruising as this would cause
great damage while the fruits are in transit.

Tips:

Choose tomatoes that have a deep rich color. Not only is this one of the signs of a delicious tasting tomato,
but the deep color also indicates that it has a greater supply of the health-promoting phytonutrient red
pigment, lycopene. Tomatoes should be well shaped and smooth skinned with no wrinkles, cracks, bruises
or soft spots. They should not have a puffy appearance since this indicates that they will be of inferior
flavor and will cause excess waste during preparation. Ripe tomatoes will yield to slight pressure and will
have a noticeably sweet fragrance.

Since tomatoes are sensitive to cold, and it will impede their ripening process, store them at room
temperature and out of direct exposure to sunlight. They will keep for up to a week, depending upon how
ripe they are when purchased. To hasten the ripening process, place them in a paper bag with a banana or
apple since the ethylene gas that these fruits emit will increase the tomato’s maturation. If the tomatoes
begin to become overripe, but you are not yet ready to eat them, place them in the refrigerator (if possible, in
the butter compartment which is a warmer area), where they will keep for one or two more days. Removing
them from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before using will help them to regain their maximum flavor and
juiciness.

Recommended Varieties

Tomato varieties are classified according to their growth habit such as indeterminate or determinate type.
The indeterminate type develops new stems from axillary bud in the leaf subtending the inflorescence with
continued growth of internodal inflorescence every 3rd to 4th leaf with sequential maturity depending on the
type variety and management, prolonging the harvesting period.
The determinate type is bushy with an inflorescence limited only to 4-6 leaves and the next buds are
developed slowly if not aborted restricting the prolific flowering resulting in shorter production period. The
characteristics of tomato varieties recommended for production are shown in Table 1. The fruits of Apollo,
Cherry and Magilas are shown in Figure 1.

Table 1. Characteristics of recommended varieties of tomato.

 Fruit Reaction
Days to Productiv Plantin
Yield to pests
Variety harvestin e period Type g
(t/ha) and
g (DAT) (months) Color Size Shape season
diseases

TMV-MR
Apollo for Red Mediu Oblon Dry
35 2-3 30 Determinate bacterial
fresh market orange m large g season
wilt-MR

Dry and Dumping

Magilas for Pink Oblon
30 1-2 30 large Determinate wet off-R wilt-
fresh red g
season R TMV-R

Mediu Dry and Bacterial-

Red Semi
Atlas (F1) 40 2-3 40 m oblong wet R wilt-R
orange determinate
Large season TMV-R

Bacterial
Atlas(rafted Red Mediu Semi Wet
40 2-3 40 oblong wilt-R
) (kamlong) orange m large determinate season
TMV-R

Dry and
Red Mediu Wilt R
Cherry 50 4-5 40 round Indeterminate wet
orange m TMV -MR
season

TMV – Tomato Mosaic Virus. MR – Moderately resistant; R - resistant

Site Selection
Choose a part of the farm that is slightly elevated and has good drainage to avoid water logging in case a
flash flood occurs during the wet season. For dry season planting, make a catchment with a canal directed
into it to drain excess water after each irrigation schedule. Choose a sandy loam or clay loam soil with a pH
of 5.5-8.0.
Growing Season
Tomato can be grown anytime of the year. In hilly areas, plant tomato from September to January. For
lowlands, plant from November to February. Grow off-season type and grafted tomatoes (kamlong) from
May to September for bigger profit.
Land Preparation
With a carabao drawn implement, plow and harrow the area once and twice if the soil is not in good tilt.
Then set furrows at a distance of 100 cm before transplanting the indeterminate type or semi-viny. For
determinate type with bushy growth habit set at 75 cm distance between furrows.
Crop Establishment
There are two methods of seedling production: the use of seedbed and seedling trays.

1. Seedbed method
 For 1000 m2 tomato production, use one seedbed measuring 1 x 10 m so that seedlings will not be
overcrowded, thereby producing seedlings with bigger stems. Cover the seedbed with 3-5 cm thick
rice hull and then burn completely to minimize the incidence of pre-emergence damping-off on the
seedlings.

 Mix 10 kg compost and 100 g complete fertilizer and incorporate these evenly into the seedbed. Sow
the seeds in small shallow furrows at 20-30 g/10 m 2. Cover the seeds lightly with fine soil. Dust the
surroundings of the seedbed with Sevin SP to control ants, and spray 1 tbsp of Vitigran Blue per
gallon of water to avoid infection of damping-off. To ensure uniform germination of the seeds,
saturate the seedbed with water for the first three days using sprinkler until the seeds emerge.

 To avoid succulent stem, regulate watering as soon as the seedlings have emerged. For the seedlings
to have a good start, apply urea at a rate of 1 tbsp/gal of water at 7-14 days after emergence (DAE).
Sprinkle water on the seedlings using a sprinkler (regador) immediately after applying the fertilizer
to avoid burning effect on the leaves. Drench the seedbeds with Vitigran Blue at the rate of 1 tbsp/gal
of water once damping-off is observed.

 To produce hard seedlings, water the seedbed only when plants show temporary wilting (this can be
observed in the morning) and repeat regularly starting at 14 DAE until the seedlings are ready for
transplanting, which is at 25-30 DAE. Water the seedbeds thoroughly before pulling the seedlings
for transplanting to minimize root damage.

2. Seedling tray method

 Seedling tray method (Fig. 2) needs only 100 g seeds/ha or 10 g for 1000 m 2. Plant the seeds singly
in each hole of the tray intended for seedlings with potting medium (Fig.2a) available at seed stores,
or bake garden soil for 2 hours. When cooled, mix the garden soil, fine sand and compost at the
ratio of [Link]. Drop 2-3 grains of 14-14-14 in each hole (Fig. 2b) before filling with the soil mixture.
Care and maintenance of seedlings (Fig. 2c) is the same as in seedbed, but transplanting shock is
minimized in tray method.

1. Transplanting

 For wet season planting, use one month old seedlings because these are harder, taller, and can
withstand the impact of rain. Transplant seedlings at a spacing of 0.50 m between hills and 1.0 m or
0.75 m on rows or furrow right after irrigation water run in the furrows. For dry season, transplant
25-day-old seedlings.
  To avoid breaking the stem of seedlings during transplanting on irrigated furrows, hold the roots with
the thumb and forefinger then push towards the soil at 3-5 cm deep depending on the length of the
stem. For an area of 1000 m 2, transplant the seedlings on the right side of the furrows for the first
half of the area. For the next half, transplant on the left side of the furrows. For easier off-barring,
use a carabao-drawn plow.

 For seedlings in trays, transplant each seedling together with the soil medium from the tray using the
same planting distance and method of transplanting as in seedbed method. If grafted tomato will be
used, transplant the seedlings 3 cm deep to the hole and cover firmly with light soil. Do not cover
the grafted part to avoid infection. Support the transplanted seedlings with trellis.

Nutrient Management
Broadcast chicken manure or organic fertilizer before land preparation or at final harrowing to fully
incorporate the fertilizer into the soil (Table 2). Apply 14-14-14 at transplanting so that seedlings will be
healthy and vigorous before flowering. Delayed application will result in weaker plants and smaller fruits.
Side dress using urea mixed with muriate of potash (0-0-60) for higher fruit setting, and to prolong the
fruiting period of the crop.
Table 2. Fertilizer requirement for tomato production.

Kind of Rate of Application Method of

Time of Application
Fertilizer per ha 1000m2) Application

Chicken
500 kg (250 g/plant) before plowing Basal/broadcast
manure

or or

Organic
250 kg (125 g/plant) final harrowing Basal/broadcast
fertilizer

14-14-14 25 kg (125 g/plant) At transplanting Basal

15 kg
21 days after transplanting
Urea+0-0-60 15 g/plant Side dress
(DAT) (at 3rd irrigation)
15 kg

Source: Gajete, T.D. et. al 2004

Water Management

1. Four to five irrigations are needed from transplanting to 14 days before the last harvest depending on
the type of soil. Tomato is very sensitive to flooding; hence, irrigation must be done just to moisten
the root zone especially during the onset of flowering up to the last harvest.

2. The following irrigation schedule must be followed for a 1000 m2 area:

 First: during transplanting (flooding) or hand watering
 Second: 14 DAT (flooding) or hand watering
 Third: at vegetative state (21 DAT), water at 1 L/hill.
 Fourth: at flowering and early fruiting (30 DAT) water at 1 L/hill.
 Fifth: optional, depending on the appearance of the plants at harvesting stage (hand water if
necessary)

3. Irrigate by furrow (quick passing) to minimize soil erosion and to favor high fruit setting.
Waterlogging for 24 hours will favor the occurrence of wilt diseases and reduce fruit setting. In the
absence of surface irrigation, water the plants weekly at the rate of 1 L/hill until two weeks before
the last harvest.

4. For tomato with plastic mulch, water twice a week for the whole crop duration.