hobbii-pattern-sku:pattern-2337-252-4692

KNITTING PATTERN

Easy Summer Cardi

Cardigan
​
Design: easy as knit | Hobbii Design

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MATERIALS SIZE
#EasySummerCardiKAL - Mystery 1 (2) 3
knit-along kit ​
MEASUREMENTS
Circular needles 4 mm / US 6, 40 cm and 80
Circumference: approx. 106 (125) 144 cm /
cm / 16" and 32"
41.75 (49.25) 56.75”
Circular needles 5 mm / US 8, 40 cm and 80
Length: 56 (62) 70 cm / 22 (24.5) 27.5”
cm / 16" and 32"
Cable needle
Made to fit a circumference of: 80-100
(100-120) 120-140 cm / 31.5-39.5 (39.5-47.25)
Stitch wire
47.25-55”
Measuring tape
Darning needle
PATTERN INFORMATION
Easy Summer Cardi is a cardigan worked
GAUGE
from the top down in a basket weave pattern
17 stitches x 26 rows in the basket weave
with cables. The pattern is full of exciting and
pattern with the yarn held double on circular
fun techniques such as provisional cast-on,
needles 5 mm / US 8 = 10x10 cm / 4” x 4”
Italian cast-on and cast-off as well as
double-knit button bands.
HASHTAGS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA
#EasySummerCardiKAL #hobbiidesign TUTORIALS
#hobbiieasysummercardi #easyasknit
Part 1: https://youtu.be/c0giUjfHocc
Part 2: https://youtu.be/nqgw5dES8qI
Part 3: https://youtu.be/aZFT07pFGBk
Part 4: https://youtu.be/gPADK46dSGs
Part 5: https://youtu.be/LlOMynNt5jg
Part 6: https://youtu.be/6bxVYbZMas8

BUY THE YARN HERE

https://shop.hobbii.com/easy-summer-cardi-
cardigan-kal

QUESTIONS
If you have any questions regarding this pattern, please feel free to email us at
support@hobbii.com
Please make sure to include the pattern's name and number.

Happy Crafting!

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PART 1: The cable at the top of the back panel

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Part 1
Before you start​
Work slowly and systematically. All steps in the pattern are first explained briefly. A more detailed
explanation of techniques and tips can be found in the explanation box below each step.

The whole cardigan is worked with two threads of the yarn held together.

Gauge swatch
Once you have made a gauge swatch and achieved the gauge given, you are ready to start your
knitting project! Note! It is important that you wash your gauge swatch, though it should not be
blocked.

Gauge swatch in the basket weave pattern

The cardigan is worked in a basket weave pattern made up of knit and purl stitches. The
basket weave pattern is created by a series of repeats across 12 rows. Work the pattern in the
following way after you have cast on 29 stitches for the gauge swatch:
●​ Row 1 (wrong side): Knit the edge stitch - purl 3 stitches - repeat the following until you
have 1 stitch left on your needle: knit 5 stitches, purl 3 stitches - finish off by knitting
the edge stitch
●​ Row 2 (right side): Knit the edge stitch - knit 3 stitches - repeat the following until you
have 1 stitch left on your needle: purl 5 stitches, knit 3 stitches - finish off by knitting
the edge stitch
●​ Row 3 (wrong side): Worked like Row 1
●​ Row 4 (right side): Worked like Row 2
●​ Row 5 (wrong side): Worked like Row 1
●​ Row 6 (right side): Knit all stitches
●​ Row 7 (wrong side): Knit the edge stitch - knit 4 stitches - repeat the following until you
have 8 stitches left on your needle: purl 3 stitches, knit 5 stitches - the last 8 stitches
are worked in the following way: purl 3 stitches, knit 4 stitches and finish off by knitting
the edge stitch
●​ Row 8 (right side): Knit the edge stitch - purl 4 stitches - repeat the following until you
have 8 stitches left on your needle: knit 3 stitches - purl 5 stitches - the last 8 stitches
are worked in the following way: knit 3 stitches, purl 4 stitches and finish off by knitting
the edge stitch
●​ Row 9 (wrong side): Worked like Row 7
●​ Row 10 (right side): Worked like Row 8
●​ Row 11 (wrong side): Worked like Row 7
●​ Row 12 (right side): Knit all stitches

Repeat these 12 rows until your gauge swatch measures at least 10 cm / 4” in height and cast
off the stitches. Then wash your gauge swatch (the swatch should not be blocked).

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Step 1 - Working the cable at the top of the back panel

Cast on 10 (10) 10 stitches using the provisional cast-on method on circular needles 5 mm / US
8, 80 cm / 32". Remember that you can watch the step-by-step tutorials for the pattern for
further explanation.

Now work a set-up row from the wrong side. Work the following:
●​ Knit the edge stitch - knit 1 stitch - purl 6 stitches (cable) - knit 1 stitch - knit the edge
stitch.

You are now going to work back and forth at the same time knitting the edge stitches on all
rows. The stitch after and before the edge stitch should be purled on the right side and knitted
on the wrong side. The remaining 6 stitches are worked as a cable - see the explanation of the
cable pattern below in the explanation box.

The first row is Row 6 in the cable pattern.

When your work measures approx. 51 (56) 65 cm / 20 (22) 25.5”, you cut the yarn and place the
stitches on hold. The last row should be Row 6 in the cable pattern.

Casting on stitches using the “provisional cast-on” method

The stitches are cast on with a temporary cast-on, also called a “provisional cast-on”, so that
you are able to continue working in the other direction from the cast-on stitches afterwards.

Working back and forth

Working “back and forth” means that you first work from one end of the circular needles to the
other end. Now you have worked one row. Then you turn your work and work back to the end
where you started.

Edge stitches
The edge stitches are knitted on all rows.

The cable pattern

Rows 1-5: Repeat the following: Work 6 stitches in stockinette stitch (cable stitches)
Row 6: Repeat the following: Place the first 3 of the 6 knit stitches on a cable needle in front of
the work, knit the next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.

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Placing stitches on hold

Placing stitches on hold means keeping the stitches but not knitting them. You place the
stitches on hold, usually on stitch wire or a piece of scrap yarn, where you pull the yarn
through the stitches. This way, the stitches will not unravel or disappear, but simply “rest” until
you need to work them again.

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PART 2: Working the back panel

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Part 2

Step 2 - Working the back panel

You now have to pick up stitches for the back panel along one of the long sides of your cable
using circular needles 5 mm / US 8, 80 cm / 32". The stitches are picked up from the right side
and they are picked up in the edge stitches. Start at the side where you cast on the stitches and
move towards the stitches that are on hold. Pick up a total of 87 (95) 111 stitches - which
corresponds to picking up stitches in about 2 out of 3 stitches along the length of the cable.

You now have 87 (95) 111 stitches on your needles.

Now work a set-up row from the wrong side. Work the following:
●​ Knit the edge stitch - place a stitch marker - purl 3 stitches - knit 5 stitches - purl 3
stitches - place a stitch marker - knit 2 stitches - purl 6 stitches - knit 2 stitches - place a
stitch marker. Now work the following a total of 5 (6) 8 times: purl 3 stitches, knit 5
stitches. The purl 3 stitches - place a stitch marker - knit 2 stitches - purl 6 stitches - knit
2 stitches - place a stitch marker - purl 3 stitches - knit 5 stitches - purl 3 stitches - place a
stitch marker - knit the edge stitch.

You have now divided the stitches on your needles according to which stitches are to be worked
in which pattern. From the right side: The first stitch is an edge stitch, which always has to be
knitted on all rows. The first 11 (11) 11 stitches after the edge stitch are worked in the basket
weave pattern. The next 10 (10) 10 stitches are worked as a cable with 2 purl stitches on either
side of the cable. The middle 43 (51) 67 stitches are worked in the basket weave pattern. After
this, the next 10 (10) 10 stitches are worked as a cable with 2 purl stitches on either side of the
cable. The following 11 (11) 11 stitches are worked in the basket weave pattern and lastly, the
edge stitch, which is knitted on all rows.

The first right side row is Row 2 in the basket weave pattern and at the same time Row 2 in the
cable pattern.

You now have to work back and forth on the back panel in the different patterns until the back
panel (including the cable at the top) measures approx. 21 (21) 25 cm / 8.25 (8.25) 9.75”. The last
row should be Row 11 (11) 11 in the basket weave pattern. You should have worked the basket
weave pattern 4 (4) 5 times in total on the back panel.

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You are going to work increases for the armholes in each side of the row on every other row.
The increases should be worked so that they fit into the basket weave pattern. Work the
following:
●​ Row 1 (right side): Knit the edge stitch - slip the stitch marker - work 1 right-leaning
increase - work the remaining stitches as the the different patterns appear, until you
have 1 stitch left on your needles - work 1 left-leaning increase - slip the stitch marker -
knit the edge stitch.
●​ Row 2 (wrong side): Work all the stitches as the different patterns appear. Note! The
new stitches should be worked, so that they fit into the basket weave pattern.
Remember that you can watch the step-by-step tutorials for the pattern for further
explanation.

Work the two rows above a total of 1 (4) 4 time(s).

You now have 89 (103) 119 stitches on your needles.

Place the stitches on hold and cut the yarn.

Picking up stitches
You pick up stitches by inserting your right-hand needle through a “closed stitch” in your
work, then you “catch” the yarn, which is placed behind your work. Once you have “caught”
the yarn with your right-hand needle, you pull the loop through the stitch, so that a stitch is
formed on your right-hand needle, which you are able to then work on the next row.

Basket weave pattern worked back and forth

The basket weave pattern is created by a series of repetitions across 12 rows and 8 stitches (+
3 stitches at the end to make the pattern identical in both sides).
Row 1 (wrong side): Repeat the following: purl 3 stitches - knit 5 stitches. Purl the last 3
stitches.
Row 2 (right side): Knit 3 stitches. Repeat the following: purl 5 stitches - knit 3 stitches. See the
explanation under “Please note”.
Row 3 (wrong side): Worked like Row 1
Row 4 (right side): Worked like Row 2
Row 5 (wrong side): Worked like Row 1
Row 6 (right side): Knit all stitches
Row 7 (wrong side): Knit 4 stitches. Repeat the following: purl 3 stitches - knit 5 stitches (the
checks are thereby staggered). Since you are offsetting the basket weave pattern on this row,

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you start off with only 4 knit stitches and finish off with only 4 knit stitches. This also applies to
either side of the cables. See further explanation below under “Please note”.
Row 8 (right side): Purl 4 stitches. Repeat the following: knit 3 stitches - purl 5 stitches. You
finish off with only 4 purl stitches.
Row 9 (wrong side): Worked like Row 7
Row 10 (right side): Worked like Row 8
Row 11 (wrong side): Worked like Row 7
Row 12 (right side): Knit all stitches

Please note: For the pattern to be identical on each side (on each side of the back panel, for
example, or each side of the cables), there are going to be 3 extra stitches for the pattern
repeat in the pattern. So on Rows 1-5 you are going to have 3 knit stitches on each side (seen
from the right side), while on Rows 7-11 you will have 4 purl stitches on each side (seen from
the right side). Remember that you can watch the step-by-step tutorials for the pattern for
further explanation.

Below is an illustration of what the pattern looks like on the first 8 stitches and 12 rows (seen
from the right side). A dot symbolizes a purl stitch and a line symbolizes a knit stitch.

Right-leaning increase
You work a right-leaning increase by working a stitch in the “loop” between two stitches. This
is done by first lifting up the loop between the stitch on your right-hand needle and the stitch
on your left-hand needle. The loop should be lifted up onto your left-hand needle from the
back and then you knit it.

Left-leaning increase
You work a left-leaning increase by working a stitch in the “loop” between two stitches. This
is done by first lifting up the loop between the stitch on your right-hand needle and the stitch
on your left-hand needle. The loop should be lifted up onto your left-hand needle from the
front and then you knit it through the back loop.

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PART 3: Working the front panels

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Part 3

Step 3.1 - Working the right front panel

You are now going to work the front panels - first the right one, then the left one.

Start by picking up stitches along the cable at the top of the back piece. The stitches are picked
up from the right side and they are picked up in the edge stitches. Start at the end (where the
cable stitches on the back panel are on hold) and move towards the middle. You should pick up
26 (26) 34 stitches, which corresponds to picking up stitches in approx. 2 out of 3 stitches. The
stitches should be picked up so that they line up with the back piece stitches on the other side
of the cable.

Remember that you can watch the step-by-step tutorials for the pattern for further explanation
and tips about this.

You now have 26 (26) 34 stitches on your needles.

First work a set-up row from the wrong side. Work the following:

For sizes 1 and (2):

●​ Knit the edge stitch - place a stitch marker - purl 3 stitches - place a stitch marker - knit 2
stitches - purl 6 stitches - knit 2 stitches - place a stitch marker - work the next 11
stitches in the basket weave pattern (start with 3 purl stitches) - place a stitch marker -
knit the edge stitch

For size 3:
●​ Knit the edge stitch - place a stitch marker - purl 3 stitches - knit 5 stitches - purl 3
stitches - place a stitch marker - knit 2 stitches - purl 6 stitches - knit 2 stitches - place a
stitch marker - work the next 11 stitches in the basket weave pattern (start with 3 purl
stitches) - place a stitch marker - knit the edge stitch

You have now divided the stitches on your needles according to which stitches are to be worked
in which pattern. From the right side: The first stitch is an edge stitch, which always has to be
knitted on all rows. The first 11 (11) 11 stitches after the edge stitch are worked in the basket
weave pattern. The next 10 (10) 10 stitches are worked as a cable with 2 purl stitches on either

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side of the cable. The next 3 (3) 11 stitches are worked in the basket weave pattern and the last
edge stitch is knitted on all rows.

The first right side row is Row 2 in the basket weave pattern and at the same time Row 2 in the
cable pattern.

First, work back and forth in the different patterns until the front panel measures 10 (9) 9 cm / 4
(3.5) 3.5”, measured from the edge where you picked up the stitches. Note! Make a note of
which row in the basket weave pattern you end on here. The last row should be a wrong side
row.

You are now going to work increases towards the neck opening on each right side row, at the
same time continuing to work back and forth in the different patterns. Work the following:

●​ Row 1 (right side): Knit the edge stitch - work the stitches as the different patterns
appear, until you have 1 stitch left on your needles - work 1 left-leaning increase - slip
the stitch marker - knit the edge stitch.
●​ Row 2 (wrong side): Work all the stitches as the different patterns appear without
increasing. Note! The new stitches should be worked, so that they fit into the basket
weave pattern.

Work the two rows above a total of 16 (20) 20 times.

You now have 42 (46) 54 stitches on your front panel.

You now have to work back and forth on the front panel in the different patterns until the front
panel measures approx. 25 (25) 29 cm / 9.75 (9.75) 11.5”. It is important that the last row worked
is Row 11 (11) 11 in the basket weave pattern. You should have worked the basket weave
pattern 5 (5) 6 times in total on the front panel.

You are going to work increases for the armhole on every right side row. Work the following:

●​ Row 1 (right side): Knit the edge stitch - slip the stitch marker - work 1 right-leaning
increase - work the stitches as the different patterns appear, until you have 1 stitch left
on your needles - knit the edge stitch.
●​ Row 2 (wrong side): Work all the stitches as the different patterns appear. Note! The
new stitches should be worked, so that they fit into the basket weave pattern.

Work the two rows above a total of 1 (4) 4 time(s).

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You now have 43 (50) 58 stitches on your needles.

Now place the stitches on hold and cut the yarn.

Step 3.2 - Working the left front panel

You are now going to work the left front panel. Start by picking up stitches along the cable at the
top of the back panel. Start by counting approx. 40 (40) 50 stitches from the end of the cable
(where you cast on the stitches) towards the neck opening. There you should start picking up
your stitches. Now pick up stitches from the neck opening and out towards the shoulder. You
should pick up 26 (26) 34 stitches, which corresponds to picking up stitches in approx. 2 out of 3
stitches. The stitches should be picked up so that they line up with the back piece stitches on the
other side of the cable.

Remember that you can watch the step-by-step tutorials for the pattern for further explanation
and tips about this.

You now have 26 (26) 34 stitches on your needles.

First work a set-up row from the wrong side. Work the following:

For sizes 1 and (2):

●​ Knit the edge stitch - place a stitch marker - work the next 11 stitches in the basket
weave pattern (start with 3 purl stitches) - place a stitch marker - knit 2 stitches - purl 6
stitches - knit 2 stitches - place a stitch marker - purl 3 stitches - place a stitch marker -
knit the edge stitch.

For size 3:
●​ Knit the edge stitch - place a stitch marker - work the next 11 stitches in the basket
weave pattern (start with 3 purl stitches) - place a stitch marker - knit 2 stitches - purl 6
stitches - knit 2 stitches - place a stitch marker - purl 3 stitches knit 5 stitches - purl 3
stitches - place a stitch marker - knit the edge stitch.

You have now divided the stitches on your needles according to which stitches are to be worked
in which pattern. From the right side: The first stitch is an edge stitch, which always has to be
knitted on all rows. The next 3 (3) 11 stitches are worked in the basket weave pattern. The next
10 (10) 10 stitches are worked as a cable with 2 purl stitches on either side of the cable. The next
11 (11) 11 stitches after the edge stitch are worked in the basket weave pattern. The last edge
stitch is knitted on all rows.

The first right side row is Row 2 in the basket weave pattern and at the same time Row 2 in the
cable pattern.
First, work back and forth in the different patterns until the front panel measures 10 (9) 9 cm / 4
(3.5) 3.5”, measured from the edge where you picked up the stitches Obs! Make sure to finish on
the same row as the one you made a note of on the right front panel.

Tip: If you forgot to make a note of it in step 3.1, you can count the number of squares and
rows in the basket weave pattern. This will help you figure out on which row to finish on the
right front panel before starting to work the increases.

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You are now going to work increases towards the neck opening on each right side row, at the
same time continuing to work back and forth in the different patterns. Work the following:

●​ Row 1 (right side): Knit the edge stitch - slip the stitch marker - work 1 right-leaning
increase - work the stitches as the different patterns appear, until you have 1 stitch left
on your needles - knit the edge stitch.
●​ Row 2 (wrong side): Work all the stitches as the different patterns appear without
increasing. Note! The new stitches should be worked, so that they fit into the basket
weave pattern.

Work the two rows above a total of 16 (20) 20 times.

You now have 42 (46) 54 stitches on your front panel.

You now have to work back and forth on the front panel in the different patterns until the front
panel measures approx. 25 (25) 29 cm / 9.75 (9.75) 11.5”. It is important that the last row worked
is Row 11 (11) 11 in the basket weave pattern. You should have worked the basket weave
pattern 5 (5) 6 times in total on the front panel.

You are going to work increases for the armhole on every right side row. Work the following:

●​ Row 1 (right side): Knit the edge stitch - slip the stitch marker - work the stitches as the
different patterns appear, until you have 1 stitch left on your needles - work 1
left-leaning increase - slip the stitch marker - knit the edge stitch
●​ Row 2 (wrong side): Work all the stitches as the different patterns appear. Note! The
new stitches should be worked, so that they fit into the basket weave pattern

Work the two rows above a total of 1 (4) 4 time(s).

You now have 43 (50) 58 stitches on your needles.

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PART 4: Working the body

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Part 4

Step 4 - Joining the front panels with the back panel

You are now going to join your front panels with your back piece. Your previous edge stitches
towards the armholes will now be worked so that they fit into the basket weave pattern. The
stitch markers at the edge stitches towards the armhole will also be removed here. Work the
following:

●​ Knit the edge stitch - work the stitches on the left front panel as the different patterns
appear - in continuation of the front panel, cast on 1 (3) 3 stitches using the loop cast-on
method - continue working the stitches across the back panel as the different patterns
appear - in continuation of the back panel, cast on 1 (3) 3 stitches using the loop cast-on
method - continue working the stitches across the right front panel as the different
patterns appear, until you have 1 stitch left on your needles - knit the edge stitch.

You now have 177 (209) 241 stitches on your needles. The edge stitch at the beginning and at
the end of the row should still be knitted on all rows.

You now work back and forth in the different patterns until the body measures approx 25 (29)
33 cm / 9.75 (11.5) 13”, measured from the armhole. The last row should be Row 5 or Row 11 in
the basket weave pattern.

Change to circular needles 4 mm / US 6, 80 cm / 32" and work 6 cm / 2.5” of 1x1 rib stitch. The
edge stitches should still be knitted on all rows and the remaining stitch markers should now be
removed. The first stitch in your ribbing should be knitted or purled, depending on which stitch
you have as your first stitch after the edge stitch.

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Bind off the stitches using the Italian bind-off.

Loop cast-on method

You make a simple loop of the thread and place the loop on your right-hand needle. On the
next row/round you work the loop as would work a regular stitch.

Working 1x1 rib stitch

You work the 1x1 rib stitch alternating one knit stitch and one purl stitch - and repeat this for
the entire row/round.

Italian bind-off
The first thing you need to do is cut the yarn. You will need a piece that is approx. 3 times as
long as your ribbing edge. Thread a darning needle with the yarn. Repeat the following to
start off: ​
1) Pull the thread purlwise through the knit stitch. Pull the thread all the way through the
stitch.
2) Pull the thread knitwise through the next purl stitch. Pull the thread all the way through the
stitch.

You are now going to need to repeat the following two steps:
1) Slip the knit stitch knitwise off your needle and pull the thread purlwise through the next
knit stitch.
2) Slip the purl stitch purlwise off your needle and pull the thread knitwise through the next
purl stitch (this is done by first passing the darning needle between the first and second stitch
on your needle from the back, and then pulling the thread knitwise through the purl stitch).

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PART 5: Working the sleeves

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Part 5

Step 5 - Working the sleeves

You are now going to work the sleeves. First, the left sleeve, then the right sleeve. The sleeves
are worked using circular needles 5 mm / US 8, 40 cm / 16”.

Start by picking up stitches all the way along the armhole. Start at the bottom of the armhole.

For size 1: You need to pick up one stitch before the loop cast-on, one stitch in the loop cast-on
and one stitch after the loop cast-on. A total of 3 stitches.

For sizes (2) and 3: You need to pick up one stitch in each of the stitches in the loop cast-on. A
total of 3 stitches.

Then you pick up 40 (44) 48 stitches along the front panel - which corresponds to picking up
stitches in approx. 2 out of 3 stitches. When you get to the stitches that have been on hold from
the cable at the top of the back panel, do the following, after you have put the stitches back
onto your needle:
●​ place a stitch marker - purl 2 stitches - knit 6 stitches - purl 2 stitches - place a stitch
marker.

These marked stitches should still be worked as the cable. Continue by picking up 24 (28) 40
stitches along the back panel - which corresponds to picking up stitches in approx. 2 out of 3
stitches.

You now have 77 (85) 101 stitches on the round.

Place a stitch marker before the 3 middle stitches at the bottom of the armhole. This is now the
beginning of your round.

Now you work the sleeve in the round in the basket weave pattern, except for the 10 marked
stitches, which are being worked as a cable with 2 purl stitches on either side of the cable.

The first round you should work now is Round 2 in the basket weave pattern and Round 2 in the
cable pattern.

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To establish the pattern correctly, from the beginning of the round, start by working 3 knit
stitches (the stitches from/at the loop cast-on) and then purl 5 stitches, knit 3 stitches, etc. This
will give you 3 knit stitches or 4 purl stitches before the stitch marker at the cable. After the
cable, start again by knitting 3 stitches or purling 4 stitches (the same as you finished with
before the cable) and continue the pattern.

Please note that the basket weave pattern is worked slightly differently in the round than back
and forth. See the explanation box below for more information.

To make the sleeve narrower and narrower, decreases must be worked continuously. Work the
following:

●​ Work 11 (11) 11 rounds, as the different patterns appear, without decreases

●​ Work one round, in which you work a decrease after and before the stitch marker at the
bottom of the armhole. Work a knit decrease if the stitches are knit stitches and a purl
decrease if the stitches are purl stitches

Work the two steps above a total of 8 (8) 8 times.

Remember that you can watch the step-by-step tutorials for the pattern for further explanation
of how the pattern is worked while at the same time working decreases.

You now have 61 (69) 85 stitches on the round.

Work in the round until the sleeve measures 40 (44) 44 cm / 15.75 (17.25) 17.25” or until the
length fits you. The last row should be Round 5 or Round 11 in the basket weave pattern. Feel
free to try the cardigan on along the way.

Change to circular needles 4 mm / US 6, 40 cm / 16" and work one round at the same time
working decreases in the following way:

●​ Work the following a total of 13 (15) 25 times: knit 2 (2) 1 stitch(es), work a decrease.
Then knit the last 9 (9) 10 stitches.

You now have 48 (54) 60 stitches on the round.

Now work 6 cm / 2.5” of 1x1 rib stitch. Bind off the stitches using the Italian bind-off.

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Now you work the right sleeve.

Start by picking up stitches all the way along the armhole. Start at the bottom of the armhole.

For size 1: You need to pick up one stitch before the loop cast-on, one stitch in the loop cast-on
and one stitch after the loop cast-on. A total of 3 stitches.

For sizes (2) and 3: You need to pick up one stitch in each of the stitches in the loop cast-on. A
total of 3 stitches.

Then you pick up 24 (28) 40 stitches along the back panel - which corresponds to picking up
stitches in approx. 2 out of 3 stitches. When you get to the stitches that have been on hold from
the cable at the top of the back panel, do the following, after you have put the stitches back
onto your needle:

●​ Place a stitch marker - purl 2 stitches - knit 6 stitches - purl 2 stitches - place a stitch
marker. Note! Due to the provisional cast-on from earlier, some of the stitches will be
twisted on the needle. They must therefore be placed facing the correct direction on
your needle before continuing. Remember that you can watch the step-by-step tutorials
for the pattern for further explanation.

These marked stitches should still be worked as the cable. Continue by picking up 40 (44) 48
stitches along the front panel - which corresponds to picking up stitches in approx. 2 out of 3
stitches.

You now have 77 (85) 101 stitches on the round.

Place a stitch marker before the 3 middle stitches at the bottom of the armhole. This is now the
beginning of your round.

Now work the remaining part of the right sleeve just like the left one.

Basket weave pattern worked in the round

●​ Rounds 1-5: Repeat the following: knit 3 stitches, purl 5 stitches
●​ Round 6: Knit all stitches
●​ Rounds 7-11: Purl 4 stitches, repeat the following: knit 3 stitches, purl 5 stitches and
finish the round by knitting 3 stitches and purling 1 stitch.
●​ Round 12: Knit all stitches

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Working decreases
To work decreases means to work two stitches together into one stitch. This is done by
inserting your right-hand needle into two stitches and pulling the yarn back through them
both. This reduces two stitches into one stitch.

Continuous decreases in the basket weave pattern

You reduce the number of stitches continuously by first working x number of rounds without
decreases and then one round with decreases after and before the stitch marker. This is
repeated x number of times. The stitches before and after the stitch marker, which cannot be
worked completely according to the basket weave pattern, should be worked so that they fit
into the pattern as best as possible.

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PART 6: Working the button band

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Part 6

Step 6 - Working a double-knit button band

You are now going to work a double-knit button band with buttonholes along the opening of
your cardigan. The button band is worked on needles 4 mm / US 6, 80 cm / 32".

Picking up stitches
Start by casting on 11 stitches on your needles using the Italian cast-on method. Then pick up
stitches along the right front panel, then the back panel and finally the left front panel. Pick up
stitches in 4 out of 5 stitches along both front panels and along the back panel. Cut the yarn.

Placing stitch markers

You now need to place stitch markers where your 5 buttonholes are going to be: Place the
buttons along the right front panel of the cardigan next to the stitches on your needles (the
ones you have just picked up), and get a sense of where you want the buttons to be placed.
Place a stitch marker on the needle where you want the bottom of each button/buttonhole to
be.

Working a double-knit button band

Join a new strand of yarn. Start at the end where you cast on your first stitches. Work from the
right-hand side towards the left. Work double-knitting in following way:

●​ Right side: Knit 1 stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in front of your work: Repeat.
Once you have worked 10 stitches in this way, knit the last stitch together through the
back loop (decrease) with the first stitch you previously picked up along the front panel.
●​ Wrong side: Slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in front of your work, knit 1 stitch: Repeat
until the end of the row. Turn your work.

You now have to work back and forth in this way until you reach the first stitch marker on the
right button band. The last row should be from the wrong side.

Buttonhole
You now have to work a buttonhole. Start from the right side by working in the following way:

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●​ Right side: Knit 1 stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in front of your work: Repeat.
Once you have worked 5 stitches in this way, turn your work and let the remaining
stitches just sit on your needles.
●​ Wrong side: Slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in front of your work, knit 1 stitch:
Repeat, until you have worked the 5 stitches again. Turn your work.

Do this 2.5 times, so that you have worked a total of 3 rows from the right side and 2 rows from
the wrong side. Cut the yarn and let the remaining stitches just sit on your needles, while you
work the other side of the buttonhole.

Now you have to work the other side of the button hole. Join a new strand of yarn. Now work in
the following way:

●​ Right side: Slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in front of your work and knit 1 stitch:
Repeat. Once you have worked 5 stitches in this way, knit the last stitch together
through the back loop (decrease) with the first stitch you previously picked up along the
front panel. Turn your work.
●​ Wrong side: Slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in front of your work and knit 1 stitch:
Repeat, until you have worked the 6 stitches again. Turn your work.

Do this 2.5 times, so that you have worked a total of 3 rows form the right side and 2 rows from
the wrong side

Now work across all 11 stitches on the wrong side in double knitting, so that the work is joined
again.

Work back and forth in double knitting at the same time working buttonholes at your stitch
markers. Then work the rest of the button band in double knitting without creating buttonholes.
Cast off the stitches at the bottom of the left front panel using the Italian bind-off method.

Attaching buttons
Using a needle and thread, sew the buttons on at the desired spots. Make sure that they are
placed in line with the button holes.

Weave in all ends.

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Double knitting
Double knitting is when you work up two sides at once, where both sides appear as the right
side in stockinette stitch. You work double knitting back and forth by alternately knitting a
stitch and slipping a stitch purlwise with the yarn in front of the work - you do this on both
sides.
On one side you start by knitting a stitch and then slipping a stitch with the yarn in front of the
work - on the other row you start the opposite way, i.e. by slipping a stitch purlwise with the
yarn in front of the work and then knitting a stitch. In this way, the stitch that was not knitted
is knitted on the other side.

Buttonholes in a double-knit button band

You work a buttonhole in a double-knit button band by first dividing your stitches in half and
working double knitting back and forth across the first stitches until you reach the desired
buttonhole size. You then cut the yarn and leave the first stitches on hold on the needle. Then
join a new strand and work the remaining stitches of your buttonhole back and forth in
double knitting, just like the first stitches. Finally, join the two sides of the buttonhole by again
working double knitting across all stitches.

Weaving in ends
To weave in ends’ means to sew together the loose/long threads that are left when you work
up a pattern. This is done by using a darning needle or a crochet hook. Sew the thread to the
inside (wrong side) and secure it using a double knot or similar.

Feel free to share your work using #EasySummerCardiKAL and tagging @easyasknit and
@hobbii_yarn. We would love to see your result!

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The pattern is solely intended for private use. Therefore, the pattern may not be copied, resold
or distributed. The systematic sale of products made on the basis of this pattern is forbidden.

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