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bloodstream, or your beast may simply eat an insect or rodent that's serving as a parasite "halfway house." But (pay attention now) the absolute, number one, main way that animals get worms is through exposure to parasite eggs in the beasts' own manure (and to the small bugs, snails, and slugs that feed on that manure). I can't emphasize this truth too strongly: If your horse, cow, or whatever can smell its own dung, the animal is going to get worms. By Randy Kidd May/June 1979
All these discouraging facts about parasites should lead you to a couple of basic conclusions. One is that you will NEVER eliminate all wormsor the threat of them from your pets and livestock. And the other is that you canand certainly should do everything within your power to control the pests. And the best way I know to cut down your parasite population is to consistently follow Dr. Kidd's famous (well, it sure oughta be):
chance to wear off). What the vet learnswhen he or she examines the small, fresh sample droppings you bringwill tell you how well (or how poorly) your treatment attempts are going. The manure test will also let you know exactly which parasites you have to fight in the first place. (By the way, one sample from each kind of animal you raise will be plenty. You won't need to cart in a collection of the pungent pellets,)
Anthelmintic Cautions
All right, you've taken care of your animal's pastureland, stall, and general well-being, and you've also taken your manure tidbits down to a vet and had that doctor analyze your worms. At last the two of you are equipped to pick out a real parasite-walloping vermicide. (NOTE: This article will give you general information that can help you understand what you and your vet are doing ... it will not teach you how to choose your own anthelmintic. However, if you do unsuccessfully try a do-it-yourself treatment anywayand then end up consulting a "heifer healer"PLEASE be kind enough to tell the doctor what medication you used. It may help him or her save your critter's life.)
The type of anthelmintic that you and your doc should choose is one that is safe, economical, easy-to-use, and eliminates many kinds of parasites (a broad-spectrum anthelmintic). Most of the newer "scattershot" wormers satisfy these characteristics. But, before you administer any anthelmintic, pleasefor the sake of your beasts' (and your own) healthtake the following precautions: KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING Read and reread the directions on the medicine's label until you thoroughly understand them. USE THE CORRECT DOSAGE It Is possible to actually kill an animal if you use too much parasiticide or give the medicine too often. Twice as much is NOT twice as good. BE PARTICULARLY CAUTIOUS ABOUT USING ANTHELMINTICS ON SICK ANIMALS, YOUNG ANIMALS, PREGNANT ANIMALS, OR LACTATING ANIMALS (critters giving milk).
DON'T DRINK ANY MILK FROM A PARASITICIDE-TREATED ANIMAL UNTIL ALL TRACES OF THE DRUG ARE GONE FROM THE BEAST'S MILK. Your vet can tell you the "withdrawal time" for a specific anthelmintic. DON'T ADMINISTER ANTHELMINTICS IN YOUR LIVESTOCK'S FEED UNLESS YOU CAN BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT EACH AND EVERY ANIMAL EATS ITS "CHOW" AND GETS ITS FAIR SHAREAND ONLY ITS SHAREOF THE MEDICINE. Once you've absorbed all those precautionary words, you'll be ready to help your animals absorb something. Namely, a good, broad-spectrum worm medication. Because this whole disease and treatment topic can get pretty danged complicated, I've worked up an easy-to-read Anthelmintics Chart to accompany this article. The table lists some common parasites, appropriate vermicides, and sound treatment programs for the standard homestead livestock and pets. Remember thatby necessityall the information I'm giving you is very general. There're plenty of good anthelminties that I won't be mentioning, and new ones are being developed all the time. Your own vet will know which particular worm killers work best for your specific parasites. (After all, the area where you live may have entirely different worms from my home territory.) Oh, and one last thing. To keep these pages squeezed down to one article (instead of letting them fill out the whole magazine), I've only mentioned a few of the many varieties of parasites. I sincerely hope that any worm whose name I leave out will forgive me. Lord knows, I don't need any worms mad at me. Ruminant Animals Cattle, sheep, and goats are all ruminants. That is, animals with four stomachs (their habit of chewing their own cud gives us that word for pondering and repondering a thought, ruminating). These contemplative gnawers can get infested with a page-filling list of internal parasites. Bortunately, most modern broad-spectrum anthelmintics are effective against all sorts of uninvited ruminant "guests." By Randy Kidd May/June 1979
One nasty disease that immature ruminants sometimes catch is called coccidiosis. The frisky young'uns will probably shake off this single-celled parasite on their own if they get some sunshine and adequate pasture room. But coccidiosis can be fatal. Personally, I wouldn't wait around to see whether the critters drop the bug or the bug drops them. If your newborns get the "runs"or if your herd has had coccidiosis problems in the
pasttreat the cud-chewing youngsters quickly. In fact, a sensible preventive measure would be to take a fecal sample from any newborn ruminant to your vet for analysis. Now, I'll tell you a bit more about each of these barnyard beasties. CATTLE. All cattle should be wormed three to four times a year, beginning when they are about one month old. Of course, you won't have any trouble medicating the dairy mooers you handle every day. It isn't so easy to treat free-roaming beef cattle. Some of those nomadic hoofers get pretty "unhumanized," and trying to hold them still long enough to, say, squirt a thiabendizole paste on their tongues is about as easy as shampooing a porcupine. You'll probably have to settle for worming the beef critters whenever you've got them restrained for some other reason (like castration or vaccination). Mother cows should be treated with anthelmintics just before they calve (to prevent them from passing the worms to their offspring) and again 90 days later. Paste or bolus (big pill) forms work well. Remember, don't drink any of your cow's milk until the time period during which the vermicide can be detected in the milk is over, Also, be sure (by following your vet's advice) that the parasiticide you use won't ''dry up" your cow and make her stop producing milk. SHEEP. Parasitism is the number one health problem in sheep and is directly related to how well they are fed. It pays to indulge the appetites of your woolly friends. Sheep worms also experience spring rise. In other words, the pests really come out swinging after winters over. Therefore, don't forget to give your flockevery yeara thorough intestinal "spring cleaning". GOATS. These are such argumentative creatures that adding the anthelmintic to their feedand making certain each one eats a fair shareis probably the easiest way to worm your Nannies and Billies. The feeding technique is made especially convenient by the fact that most broad-range worm medicines come in easy-to-eat granular and liquid forms.
Horses Parasites
Horses can carry a cavalry of internal riders, so many that you may need to worm the steeds pretty danged steadily just to stay on top of their parasite problems. That's one reason why I put such a long list of horse anthelmintics on the bug-and-drug chart: so you can switch your "weaponry" often enough to keep the vermin from developing a resistance to any one medication. (The other reason is thatsince you don't milk horsesyou can use a greater variety of anthelmintics on them than can safely be administered to ruminants.)
Among the nastiest of the equestrian parasites are the larvae of the strongyle bloodworms. These "bugs" migrate into the arteries that supply the small intestine, and thus the parasites can actually block off some of a horse's blood flow, causing acute intestinal pain (colic). Bots (the larvae of the Gasterophilus fly) are an equally nagging juvenile invader. The hard-coated, sluglike shysters can cover almost the entire surface of a horse's stomach. Horses ingest the parasites by innocently chewing or licking the spotlikeand visible to the human eyeeggs, which flies deposit on the critters' slick coats. And just in case you haven't heard enough equine afflictions, another horse worm you can sometimes see is the Oxyuris, or pinworm. These lower intestine burrowers may actually crawl out of your steed's backside. If your horse has a ratty tail (because the animal's been scratching its southbound end a lot), this pointy parasite may be the reason.
Hog Treatment
Since animals that have contact with their own manure are most likely to get worms, pigswhich are renowned for living the "sty life"get plenty of parasites. I've filled a quart mason jar with the worms removed from just one sow! To keep your swine fine and healthy, you'll have to worm the creatures on a regular basis. Andbecause the porky "garbage disposals" will consume almost anythingthe simplest way to get an anthelmintic into a pig's stomach is just to add the medicine to its food.
Dog Worms
Almost all puppies are born with some kindand often lots of kindsof worms. So be sure to treat your canine babies and your expectant dog mothers conscientiously. Piperazine is a common roundworm medicine that works well (remember, it only kills mature roundworms, so you have to use it repeatedly). But piperazine is a specificnot a broad-spectrumanthelmintic and won't affect any other worms your pups may be harboring. Hookworms are a very severe example of those "other'' dog botherers. These "vampires" enter by penetrating the skin and can drain enough blood to make the pups anemic or even kill them. Check young dogs at four to six weeks of age for this intestinal parasite (or even sooner after birth if you've had hookworm troubles in the past).
Another common canine parasite found in dogs of all ages is the tapeworm. Dogs catch these well-named (they may be five feet long) scoundrels in two ways. The Taenia tapeworm larvae inhabit the body of a rabbit or rodent, soif your hound likes to eat wild critters out backit may well already be hosting this pest. And Dipylidium tapeworm eggs use fleas as their "pass card" for intestinal entrance. When your canine chewsand accidentally swallowsan aggravating skin-biter, the pooch's aggravation may have just begun. You can tell if Fido has either variety of tapeworm by looking for white, rice like worm segments in your dog's feces. If you see these egg-harboring body pieces, medicate your dog immediately. However, don't use one of the older tapeworm remedies. Those outmoded anthelmintics knock off most of the tape worm's body (the segments will dramatically appear in the dog's waste ), but the parasite's many-hooked head remains embedded in your suffering pooch's intestinal wall to grow and strike again. The newer remedies "go for the jugular" and kill the tapeworm's head (some even dissolve the whole "measure" so you won't see any segments passed in the animal's feces at all). Niclosamide is a very effective and safe example of the more modern drugs available (this medicine is a specific anthelmintic against the flea-spread Dipylidium tapeworm.) One canine problem you definitely should not treat at home is heartworms. These mosquito-spread larvae mature into spaghetti-strand monsters right in the chambers of your dog's heart and inhibit the pumping of the blood in this dangerously hard-to-treat organ. So try to prevent the problem before it starts by finding outfrom your vetif heartworms are prevalent in your area and what you can do to prevent them (the test for these parasites is done from a bloodrather than a fecalsample).