Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Finally, I learned to say: ‘Okay, let’s just adopt the old phrase inshallah. What’s going to happen
is going to happen. And if it does? Well, then c’est pas grave.”
—Maren Larsen, UGB exchange student, 2007-08
Saint-Louis, Senegal.
have met up with Jim Delehanty, UW–Madison faculty advisor of their exchange program, in the
bar of the Hôtel la Résidence in the former capital of the historic French colony. This year, all
participants on the program are females, which isn’t unusual, and all are enrolled at UW–
Madison (most hail from hometowns around the state). Their majors range from agriculture to
evidence of having lived in a remarkably different country since September. Some wear a mix of
Old Navy capris and Senegalese headscarves wrapped four inches above their heads. Another
everything.
wasn’t necessarily bad,” she hastens to add, “it was just a lot to take in.” The students nod in
recognition.
“Still, when I was down, I kept thinking: ‘this is my dream! Why aren’t I loving this?”
has accepted almost 150 participants from a handful of American universities since 1991. This is
Delehanty’s “twelfth-or-so” midterm visit, which means he has served as one of the program’s
Delehanty, who is also the associate director of UW–Madison’s African Studies Program,
is here to advise the students on their the fieldwork research projects that each will transform
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It is also a chance to check in with the students, to see how each is faring in one of the
nation’s most innovative, unique, and challenging opportunities for undergraduate academic
study abroad.
“It’s almost like clockwork,” Delehanty had told me during our four-hour car ride from
And this is no less true in Saint-Louis. By now, some are over the novelty of being called
toubab (white person) in the busy markets. Most are craving hot showers and flush toilets.
Others have just said goodbye to boyfriends or siblings who visited for the holidays; now they
Many of the students will confide to us over that week that if they felt they could leave
All of them say they wouldn’t trade this experience for the world.
“These students are not tourists,” Baydallaye Kane, professor of English and the on-site
His office, on the second floor of the university’s main building, is bright with light from
one whole window of walls. A framed black-and-white photo of Gaston Berger, Saint-Louis
“Although we now have a number of exchange programs, the UW program was the first,
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Kane, one of the early architects of the UGB program—together with UW–Madison
African Languages and Literature professor Edris Makward and then-associate director of IAP
Joan Raducha—was determined to design opportunities for the greatest cultural immersion
possible.
much as it is academic.”
Wolof language, and an innovative research project tailored to each student’s interest.
And so after a month-long stay with a Senegalese host family in Dakar for early
orientation and language instruction, each student lives in UGB housing with a Senegalese
roommate. Like everyone else, they wash their clothes in plastic pails and take cold showers for
the year. And they eat chebu gen (fish and rice) and other local fare at the outdoor blue-
terraced buvette as goats amble along the acacia-lined paths between buildings.
Arguably, students might find downtown Saint-Louis, about a ten-minute taxi ride from
the university, a more stimulating environment. There, market-lined streets and nightclubs offer
color and more touristy opportunities. But that would distance them from ordinary student life
at UGB.
In this setting, their intensive Wolof instruction comes in handy. While all of the
Americans on this program arrive with some facility in French, an official language of the
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country, they receive year-long language instruction in Wolof, the most widely spoken language
in Senegal.
As Jo Ellen Fair, UW–Madison journalism professor and faculty co-director of the UGB
program, explains: “After a while you don’t want the Senegalese students to switch into French
every time you walk up to them. If there’s a Wolof conversation going on, you want to join it in
Wolof.”
The last of the program’s three-prong immersion mission is perhaps the most
innovative: the fieldwork projects which require these students to research some aspect of
Senegalese life, culture, or environment. To do so, students must navigate communities beyond
the university, where French and Wolof are just two of many languages spoken.
“Getting students out into the community is especially important in a country like
Senegal,” Delehanty explains. “All universities are an abstract of society at large, but in Africa
the university is especially distant from the day-to-day lives of most citizens.” (Never mind the
Students have tackled such subjects as the struggling fishing industry, conflict resolution
really part of the French system.” But it was Kane, who himself
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for the inside perspective that fieldwork projects would provide.
“Baydallaye is one of the most creative administrators I’ve ever encountered,” Raducha
says by way of explanation. (Indeed, as the newly elected dean of UGB’s College of Letters and
Human Sciences, he is now implementing a major, and equally creative, restructuring of the
“Exchange opportunities for American students are very important in terms of cultural
tolerance,” Kane says of the value of cultural immersion. “Unlike their grandparents—who didn’t
necessarily have the opportunity to experience other cultures—these students can see another
“That’s important because then they can judge a culture from that place,” he continues.
“It’s not okay to say ‘I don’t like this about a culture’ when you don’t understand it. But if you
understand the culture and then don’t like something about it, that’s different.”
modern city by West African standards. And the Université Gaston-Berger, founded in 1990, is
When we visit in the middle of winter, the weather is 80 degrees and sunny every day—
it being the cool and dry season of the year. And the Senegalese we meet do justice to their
reputation as open and warm people. (In fact, each student recounts with equal parts pride and
humility the week spent celebrating the Muslim holiday Tabaski with the families of their
Senegalese friends.)
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“We’re definitely not sending them into
doctorate in geography.
Still, most of the students have never navigated in a Muslim culture, where a religion
unfamiliar to most of them permeates social mores and requires different comportment: a more
modest dress for women, for example. And seemingly small things can loom large over time,
for example, only extending one’s right hand in social situations, not the left.
Combine that with a more relaxed sense of time, an intensely social culture, and
diverging sanitary routines, and there’s a point they have to abandon many of their own
ingrained patterns and expectations. Each student has to find his or her own way of handling
such disorientation.
Some solutions are practical. One student learned to manage the power outages that
interrupt routine errands by taking a book wherever she goes to just wait it out.
All of them recognize that just the act of seeing oneself through such challenges, which
sometimes require just sitting through discomfort, has helped them to foster a different attitude
entirely—one that they will draw on long beyond the program year.
“I think the wall that I hit was built by my expectations,” says Larsen. “I had to learn not
to get worked up over things. Now no matter what happens, I feel like things will work out.”
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“I learned to have faith,” says Catherine Skroch, who has just returned from conducting
peace studies and conflict resolution in the Casamance. “Finally, I just said: ‘I’m going to close
my eyes and hold my breath and jump into it, and hope it all turns out alright.”
Political Science major Brenda Lazarus assesses her experience with pride: “I’m more
independent now,” she says. “I’m more confident that whatever situation I’m in I can deal with
it.”
“It’s not a regular academic environment,” Muilenburg explained. “They don’t have the
Raducha says one of the biggest challenges has been designing productive academic
years when whole courses can be canceled or postponed for weeks at a time.
For the most part, it’s the students who show remarkable discipline and drive.
Indeed, the alumni of the UGB program have proven to form an uncommonly successful
lot. Along with a disproportionately high number of future Peace Corps volunteers, a striking
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Sarah Nehrling, who participated in the program during the 2003-04 academic year,
recently returned to work for a Senegalese NGO in Theis, an important city between Dakar and
Saint-Louis.
When we visit her in a café on our way back to Dakar, she updates Jim on the status of
her fellow UGB alumni. Three are in the Peace Corps and another is earning her master’s in
public health from UW–Madison. Nehrling herself is now working for her third NGO in West
Africa since graduating back at UW–Madison in 2005. She plans to stay at least a year and a
half.
With hindsight, Nehrling acknowledges that, while such a unique opportunity draws
exceptional individuals, something in the experience itself solidifies their compassion and
resolve.
and the other foreign students attending UGB with less preparation and immersion,” Nehrling
tells us. American students on other programs, for example, only stay for one semester and
most often live in separate housing. “Some of those students say, ‘I didn’t learn a thing about
“They don’t experience the same level of stress and discomfort,” she explains. “There is
a cracking point in study abroad when you’re just frustrated with so many things. And you
either learn how to deal with it, or you completely give up in the negative sense. You just tune
out.”
“So is it just a level of discomfort that makes UW students more successful here?”
Delehanty asks.
No, not that, she corrects. It’s the sense of self that results from having to adapt to such
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SIDEBAR A:
When we meet her at the campus’ blue-terraced, open-air buvette, Maren Larsen tells
us she has chosen to research the place of Chinese merchants in the Senegalese economy.
This, as it turns out, has led her to speak with everyone from a cultural attaché of Senegal’s
Economic Mission to street merchants in Dakar’s Chinatown. She has also enrolled in Chinese
language courses, which UGB is offering for the first time this year.
But because her Chinese is rudimentary at best and most of the Asian shop owners
speak neither French nor Wolof, Larsen found herself approaching the Senegalese merchants
who hawk goods outside the Chinese owners’ stores. They would be effective intermediaries,
she thought.
“I learned to bargain with them,” Larsen says. “I said: ‘I’ll give you an English lesson if
“Unfortunately, the English lesson takes twice as long as the interview!” she laughs.
Still, she says she’s gained an invaluable perspective on the informal economy between
the Chinese and Senegalese merchants, the latter of whom often purchase their goods from the
“I’m doing real research,” she says, “and not just from an American perspective. The
Senegalese are asking the same questions I’m asking [‘Why did these Chinese merchants
suddenly appear and what are they doing here?’], so I don’t feel like I’m just examining their
culture as an outsider.”
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SIDEBAR B:
“It didn’t take long for us to ask what the people at UGB needed in exchange,” Raducha
says.
Both institutions were committed to building a program that truly benefited each
partner—even when this meant accommodating very different needs. This commitment has
required the program’s administrators to be almost as flexible as the students it sends abroad.
“Joan was genuinely invested in giving UGB a fair half of the exchange,” Kane says.
By the second year of the exchange, UW–Madison was welcoming top applicants from
UGB to spend a year studying in Wisconsin. In some years, one Senegalese student came to
Wisconsin, and in others years there were two or three. Because of economic disparities,
attending UW–Madison is out of the reach of most Senegalese students, so fees from the
Wisconsin. (Generally, one UGB student could come to Wisconsin for every four UW–Madison
Within just a few years, it was clear that this was an untenable arrangement: fewer than
one out of ten students from Saint-Louis who visited Madison returned to Senegal. Instead,
most parlayed their Madison experience into admission to a U.S. graduate school. Educational
advancement of this kind certainly was good for the participating Senegalese students and
admirable in every regard, but program organizers on both sides were concerned that extended
or permanent stays in the U.S. would limit the exchange’s direct benefits to UGB and Senegal.
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“They just sort of wove into the social fabric here,” Raducha explains. Indeed, several
have obtained Ph.D.s and assumed faculty posts in American universities. As of yet, none has
“We really listened to the university’s administrators as they were figuring out what they
“Unlike UGB, which is still growing, UW–Madison is completely settled,” says Kane,
making it a perfect place for a scholar in need of a library and fellow colleagues. “We realized
we didn’t need to strengthen the experiences of our students as much as we needed to offer
professional development opportunities to our top faculty. This, we figured, would lead them to
return to UGB—and in turn we’d attract further top students from West Africa to our university.”
Now three Saint-Louis faculty and administrators spend three to five months every year
“I feel very good about what we did with Senegal,” Raducha says. “A partnership means
both sides benefit. And if that means changing our rules, well, you have to do what’s useful to
both sides.”
On UGB’s campus, the fact that UW–Madison students are paying for other people’s
“At first we thought it was weird that there was this arrangement,” says one Wisconsin
student who joined us on our bumpy car ride back to Dakar. “But it sort of makes sense. Like,
why shouldn’t my tuition help pay for their growth? Why wouldn’t it?”
Says another student, “Personally, I’m glad that they can do this, now that I’ve seen the
resources here, I have to stop myself from saying ‘our libraries are the size of city blocks!’ I
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In fact, the arrangement has nothing to do with charity, and the costs to Wisconsin
participants are nil. UGB waives most tuition, room, and board costs for Wisconsin participants
precisely so that the fees that the American students pay can be reserved for UGB faculty and
It’s a new era in international education. No longer need large research universities
merely consume the educational and cultural experiences of other countries. Exchanges like
UW–Madison’s Senegal program value the fact that each institution has something different to
offer and gain from the arrangement. Both stand to grow because of it.
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