Poultry Eng Ebook PDF

A project supported by the European Union
A MANUAL ON
IMPROVED
RURAL POULTRY
PRODUCTION
A MANUAL ON
IMPROVED
RURAL POULTRY
PRODUCTION
I
A MANUAL ON IMPROVED
RURAL POULTRY
PRODUCTION
II
DISCLAIMER AND COPYRIGHT NOTICE
This publication was prepared with financial assistance from the Commission of the
European Communities. The designations employed and the presentation of material
in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of
the European Commission. Where trade names are used this does not constitute
endorsement of, nor discrimination against, any of the products mentioned.
The information contained in this publication has come from multiple sources. Whilst
every effort has been made to provide correct information on diseases and treatment
regimens, the accuracy and completeness of the information and of any statements or
opinions based thereon, are not guaranteed. In particular, the reader is advised to check
the product information currently provided by the manufacturer of each drug product
before prescribing or administering it, especially if the drug is unfamiliar or is used
infrequently.
Permission to take copies of part or all of this work for personal, classroom or exten-
sion use is hereby granted without fee and without formal request, provided that copies
are not made or distributed for profit or commercial advantage and that copies bear full
reference to this work.
c 2003 Department of Livestock and Fisheries, Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry,
Lao PDR
ISBN: 974-91217-9-1
Correct citation:
Oosterwijk, G., Van Aken, D. and Vongthilath, S., 2003. A Manual on Improved Rural
Poultry Production (1st Edition, English Language). Department of Livestock and
Fisheries, Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, Vientiane, Lao PDR. VIII + 115 pp.
III
PREFACE
This manual has been produced as an output of the European Union - Lao PDR Project
ALA/96/19 Strengthening of Livestock Services and Extension Activities, within
the Department of Livestock and Fisheries (DLF) of the Ministry of Agriculture and
Forestry.
The manual is meant for trainees attending practical poultry courses and for small
scale farmers to read at home to improve their poultry production. The text has been
kept to a minimum and the manual is richly illustrated with drawings by Mongkham
Boualavanh and with a series of colour pictures. In preparing this manual, teaching and
extension materials used in similar programs in the region have been incorporated. For
general scientific background information, standard poultry husbandry handbooks have
been used.
In November 2000, the Project published the first edition of the Lao language manual
Improved Rural Poultry Manual (ISBN 974-90489-3-8). The present English language
edition has taken into account the feedback and suggestions from field staff and experts
from different organizations. These improvements also appear in the second edition of
the Lao language manual.
Improving productivity of village poultry flocks will greatly enhance income and diet
of resource- poor farmers. Using improved production methods is also essential for
farmers who intend to venture later into (semi-) commercial layer and broiler production.
Oosterwijk Gerard, Van Aken Dirk, and Vongthilath Sounthone (Editors)
Project Management Unit, Vientiane, April 2003
IV
V
TABLE OF
CONTENTS
Chapter 1: The YELLOW CHICKEN
1. Rearing Yellow Chickens .................................................................................................................. 1
2. Advantages of the Yellow Chicken ................................................................................................... 1
3. Caring of the Yellow Chicken ........................................................................................................... 6
Chapter 2: FEEDING
1. Quality and quantity of chicken feed............................................................................................... 13
2. Components of chicken feed ........................................................................................................... 14
3. Ingredients of chicken feed ............................................................................................................. 16
4. Improving local poultry feeds .......................................................................................................... 19
5. Using commercial feeds mixed with locally available feeds ........................................................... 23
6. Improving feeding ........................................................................................................................... 25
Chapter 3: HOUSING
1. Why improve chicken housing? ...................................................................................................... 27
2. How to make your chickens comfortable and increase production of eggs and meat .................... 29
3. Principles of good housing .............................................................................................................. 30
4. Type and choice of housing ............................................................................................................. 35
5. Other housing models ...................................................................................................................... 38
Chapter 4. EQUIPMENT
1. Housing with earth floor and litter .................................................................................................. 41
2. Housing on stilts and slatted floor ................................................................................................... 41
3. Feeders ............................................................................................................................................. 42
4. Drinkers ........................................................................................................................................... 43
5. Nests ................................................................................................................................................ 45
6. Roosts or perches ............................................................................................................................. 46
7. Litter ................................................................................................................................................ 47
VI
Chapter 5: SELECTION and CULLING
1. Improving poultry production ......................................................................................................... 49
2. Step 1: the choice of good hatching eggs ........................................................................................ 51
3. Step 2: selecting grower females (pullets) ....................................................................................... 53
4. Step 3: selecting productive hens .................................................................................................... 55
5. Step 4: selecting breeding cocks ...................................................................................................... 57
Chapter 6: HATCHING and BROODING
1. Improved hatching management ..................................................................................................... 61
2. The brooding and hatching period................................................................................................... 65
3. The initial rearing period ................................................................................................................. 66
4. Feeding suggestions ......................................................................................................................... 68
5. Vaccination ...................................................................................................................................... 69
6. Two stories ....................................................................................................................................... 69
Chapter 7: PARENT-STOCK KEEPER with an INCUBATOR
1. The parent-stock keeper .................................................................................................................. 71
2. The use of a small incubator ............................................................................................................ 72
3. Brooding rings ................................................................................................................................. 75
4. Sexing .............................................................................................................................................. 76
5. Health care of chicks........................................................................................................................ 77
Chapter 8: DISEASE CONTROL
1. General animal health problems ...................................................................................................... 79
2. Where do diseases come from? ....................................................................................................... 80
3. How to avoid diseases ..................................................................................................................... 80
4. How to recognise a sick bird ........................................................................................................... 82
5. What to do when a chicken dies or is sick ...................................................................................... 83
6. Slaughter of chickens ....................................................................................................................... 84
7. Story of two friends ......................................................................................................................... 85
Chapter 9: POULTRY DISEASES
1. Newcastle Disease .......................................................................................................................... 87
2. Fowl Cholera (or pasteurellosis) .................................................................................................... 91
VII
...............
...............
...............
...............
3. Salmonellosis ................................................................................................................................... 93
4. Coccidiosis ....................................................................................................................................... 94
5. Fowl Pox .......................................................................................................................................... 95
6. Internal parasites .............................................................................................................................. 95
7. External parasites ............................................................................................................................. 96
ANNEXES
Annex 1: Vaccination schedules for poultry ..................................................................................... 99
Annex 2: The anatomy of the chicken............................................................................................ 100
APPENDIX of PHOTOGRAPHS
1. Selection and breeds ..................................................................................................................... 103
2. Chicken pens ................................................................................................................................. 104
3. Feeders and drinkers ..................................................................................................................... 105
4. Small scale feeding practices ........................................................................................................ 105
5. Nutrition: energy and protein........................................................................................................ 106
6. Large scale feeding practices ........................................................................................................ 107
7. Parent stock of high productive breeds......................................................................................... 108
8. Commercial layer farm ................................................................................................................. 108
9. Selection of good layers ................................................................................................................ 109
10. Vaccination techniques ................................................................................................................ 110
11. Poultry diseases and treatments ................................................................................................... 111
12. Small scale hatchery .................................................................................................................... 112
13. Large scale hatchery .................................................................................................................... 112
14. Sexing, candling and debeaking .................................................................................................. 113
15. Integrated farming ....................................................................................................................... 114
16. Other poultry pictures .................................................................................................................. 114
VIII
1
Chapter 1. The YELLOW CHICKEN
LAO-EU Livestock Project
1. Rearing Yellow Chickens
Farmers want to improve the production of local chickens. This can be done by introducing
the Yellow Chicken breed (also called Tam Houng). This chicken breed originates from
China and is also popular in Vietnam. The chicken is characterized by the yellow color of its
feathers, skin and legs. Recently, the Yellow Chicken has also been introduced in Lao PDR.
The parent-stock of this breed is at Nong Teng, near Vientiane. Please contact your provin-
cial livestock office to find out how to obtain Yellow Chickens.
Parent stock of Yellow Chicken at
Nong Teng Poulty Station
2. Advantages of the Yellow Chicken
2.1. Different rearing methods
As the Yellow Chicken can withstand a great deal of stress, it can be reared in a varierty of
ways.
Commercial rearing
in cages
2
Improved Rural Poultry Production
Semi-commercial rearing on
the floor
Small scale household
production
2.2. More eggs
The Yellow Chicken hen can lay around 130 - 140 eggs per year if the flock is taken good
care of. This egg production is almost double that of local chickens which have an egg
production of 70 eggs per year. With good management the Yellow Chicken will start laying
eggs at 22 - 26 weeks.
Yellow Chicken producing 130 - 140
eggs per year
Local chicken producing 70 eggs per year
3
2.3. Faster growing
The Yellow Chicken grows fast and is efficient in feed utilization. With good management the
chicken can grow up to 1.5 kg within 12 weeks (3 months). In comparison, the local chicken
takes 6 month to reach the weight of 1.5 kg (almost twice as long). The mature Yellow
Chicken hen can grow up to 2.5 - 3.5 kg and the cock can grow to 3.5 - 5 kg.
A comparison of Yellow Chicken and local chicken at the age of 15 weeks.
2.4. Tender meat
The meat of the Yellow Chicken is tender and of high quality. This type of meat is preferred in
restaurants. In addition to the genetics (breeds), the quality of meat is also affected by diet
(feeds).
Eating high quality Yellow
Chicken in a restaurant
Comparing 2 cocks of the same age
Comparing 2 hens of the same age
4
2.5. Crossbreeding
Farmers can use the Yellow Chicken cocks to get better offspring from their local hens. This is
called crossbreeding or upgrading. Crossing local chickens with pure-breed cocks produces
young chicks with a potential for laying more eggs and a potential for growing faster, better
and bigger. This potential can be reached if the farmers also improve the management, such
as feeding, housing and health care.
2.6. Pure breed production
Farmers can obtain Yellow Chicken hens as well as cocks. Together these can produce
Yellow Chicken chicks which will expand their pure breed Yellow Chicken flock. The offspring
will show the same production capabilities as the parents (lay as many eggs and grow as fast
and big).
Replace the local cock by
a Yellow Chicken cock.
Yellow Chicken cock and
local hen. The crossbreed
offspring produce more
eggs and grow better.
Yellow
chicken
Crossing
Local
chicken
Fast growing and bigger
More eggs
5
A Yellow Chicken flock of four
hens and one cock. After
about 6 months the flock
could grow over 30 chickens.
2.7. Pure breed hatchery
Farmers can use pure breed Yellow Chicken flock as a small hatchery from which they can
sell fertilized eggs or day-old chicks to other farmers.
Selling fertile eggs can fetch higher prices
than selling the eggs for consumption.
Farmers can obtain Yellow
Chicken chicks by buying
fertile eggs from other farmers
and hatch the eggs under their
local hens.
6
2.8. Providing food and money
The Yellow Chicken can provide the family
with high quality food (eggs and meat) rich
in animal proteins. These proteins are
needed to make you grow strong and
healthy. In addition, the farmer can have a
weekly surplus of eggs and chicken that can
be sold in the market. This will provide the
family with regular cash money for their
needs.
3. Caring of the Yellow Chicken
The Yellow Chicken breed is a high producing breed. Special care is required. Production will
be highly dependent on improved management by the farmers.
Yellow Chicken flock kept
under poor conditions:
no house, no feed, high
mortality.
Yellow Chicken flock kept
under good conditions:
simple house, homemade
feed ration, many healthy
chickens.
7
3.1. Good housing
Good housing protects chickens against rain, wind, cold and predators and reduces outbreaks
of diseases. Good housing provides enough fresh air and light, enough floor space for the
feeders and drinkers, and comfortable nests to lay, brood and hatch eggs. Housing with a
slatted floor (see 3.3.) is more hygienic and reduces disease problems such as cocciciodis.
Day and night housing
Night housing
Housing for many chickens
8
3.2. Good feeding
Ready-made poultry feed can make your Yellow Chickens grow fast. About 3 kg of commercial
poultry feed is needed for the growth of 1 kg of meat. But as poultry feed is expensive, you
may mix it with locally available feed resources to make your own homemade feed ration. A
good homemade ration contains energy, protein, vitamins and minerals from a mixture of local
sources (such as rice, maize, beans, fruits, plants and boiled eggshells).
About 3 kg of good poultry
feed is needed for the young
chicken to grow 1 kg.
Home made feed ration of
rice, beans, maize, fruits, etc.
Good quality feed produces
more eggs and more meat.
Rice
Rice
bran
Maize
Beans
Fruits
Good or high
quality feed
9
Housing on stilts with slatted
floors (thickness 1 cm, width 3-4
cm, with 1-2 cm in between).
3.3. Good health care
Vaccinate all chickens regularly against Newcastle Disease and Fowl Cholera. These diseases
are often the cause of very high mortality, especially among young chicks. Do not vaccinate
sick animals. Vaccines can only prevent diseases, they can not cure sick animals.
Good housing on a slatted floor
can also decrease the incidence
of diseases (such as coccidiosis)
and internal parasites which
cause a slow growth rate or
even death in chickens. The
slatted floor will not decrease
problems with mites, ticks or lice.
Transportable
chicken pen.
10
Administer Heat Resistant
Newcastle Disease vaccine as
an eye-drop every 3 months.
Vaccinate against Fowl Cholera
under the skin of the neck or in
the wing-web every 3 months.
3.4. Good equipment
Chickens need feeders and drinkers. Well placed nests keep predators away from eating
eggs and the brooding hens are not disturbed. Perches prevent chickens sleeping in nests,
feeders and drinkers. Litter is dry material spread on the floor (like straw, wood shavings, rice
husks, etc.) and reduces the risk of disease.
Chickens with enough
space at feeders (6-8 cm
per bird) and drinkers
(1-2 cm per bird).
Chickens laying eggs in
nests and sleeping on
perches.
11
Chicken cages for high
producing layer-breed.
3.5. Good brooding, hatching and rearing management
Provide a warm, dry, draft-free place for the young chicks, away from predators. The night
temperature should be around 30-32
o
C. Pay extra attention to feeding and watering the
chicks during the first 6 weeks. Crush and soak grain and rice and provide a mixture of feeds.
Often local hens are good brooders and they take good care of their chicks. Use a local hen
if your Yellow Chicken hen does not brood well. About 10 eggs taken around the same time
from different Yellow Chickens can be put under a local hen when she starts brooding.
Putting eggs of the Yellow Chicken
under a local brooding hen.
Provide the clutch with a
dry warm place, separated
from other chickens.
Extra feed for young chicks.
Water
Feed
12
3.6. Good selection and culling management
The selection of breeding cocks requires special care, as the Yellow Chicken cocks find it
difficult to compete with aggressive, local cocks. To upgrade the local chicken with the Yellow
Chicken cock, it is advisable to sell the local cocks or restrict their access to the local hens.
Select eggs for hatching
from a good brooder.
These eggs should be
clean, without cracks,
even in size and not older
than 10 days.
Select a Yellow Chicken cock
that goes after hens and can
compete with local cocks.
Select a fast growing, healthy
chicken; always actively
scavenging for feed.
13
Chapter 2. FEEDING
The ability to produce more eggs and meat depends also on the quality and quantity of feed
given to their chicken.
Higher quantity and better
quality feed more meat.
1. Quality and quantity of chicken feed
Good poultry farmers want to increase the
production of their local chickens to obtain
more eggs and/or more chicken meat.
Higher quantity and better
quality feed more eggs.
By exchanging or replacing a local cock for a high producing exotic or hybrid cock, farmers
know that their local hens will produce offspring which will be able to:
produce more eggs and,
grow bigger/faster than
their mother.
Good
quality
feed
14
Ready-made poultry feed can make high producing poultry breeds grow fast and lay many
eggs. Only 3 kg of good quality poultry feed is needed for the growth of 1 kg of meat. But as
poultry feed is expensive, it is better to use a little for improved local chicken breeds (like
Yellow Chicken) and supplement this with a homemade feed ration. A good homemade ration
contains energy, protein, vitamins and minerals from a mixture of local sources (such as rice,
maize, beans, fruits, plants and eggshells).
Three kg of commercial
poultry feed will produce
1 kg of chicken meat.
Chickens usually find their feed around the house and in the fields. They eat different sorts of
feeds: grains,

leaves, insects, worms, food leftovers, etc. Normally the quality of this feed is
good but the quantity is insufficient for good production. Therefore extra feed (either your
own mix or the commercial one) should be provided. This extra feed should be given at the
end of the day to attract the chickens home to their (night) pen.
energy, protein, vitamins and minerals.
2. Components of chicken feed
Chicken feed contains the following:
15
Chapter 2. FEEDING
Protein: Chickens need protein to grow from chick to adult, to produce muscles and feathers
and to stay healthy. All chickens need protein to survive and they need more protein to produce
eggs or to grow big.
Energy: Chickens need energy just to stay alive, and to walk,

to search for food, to catch
insects, or to run away when they are in danger. They need more energy to produce eggs or
to grow big.
Vitamins: Chickens need small quantities of vitamins to have a long and healthy life, to
protect them against diseases and to produce healthy and strong offspring. They only need
small quantities - but of many different sorts of vitamins.
Minerals: Chickens need small quantities of minerals
to develop strong bones, good feathers and to
produce shells around the eggs. Be careful when
you give egg shells, as some chicken develop the
bad habit of cracking an egg and eating the yolk.
Strong
16
3. Ingredients of chicken feed
In all the feeds we give the chickens, energy, protein, minerals and vitamins are present in
different quantities.
Energy can be found in:
All kind of grains:
maize, sorghum,
wheat, rice, etc.
A number of crop by-
products: maize bran,
rice bran, millet bran,
etc.
All kinds of root crops:
cassava, potatoes, sweet
potatoes, yams. Also
kitchen left-overs.
Maize
Rice
Sorghum
Rice bran
Millet bran
Sorghum
Yams
Papaya
Cassava
Sweet potatoes
Potatoes
17
Chapter 2. FEEDING
Leaves of certain plants
like cassava, cow-pea or
leucaena.
In crop by-products which have to be bought like cotton seed cake,

copra cake, sesame
cake.
In products from animal origin like fish meal, termites, ants, bugs, ticks, worms, boiled
blood (or blood meal), crushed snails from the rice fields.
Minerals can be found in:
Shells, bones and lime (and
commercially available pre-
mixes). The most important
minerals are calcium and
phosphorus for the formation
of bones and egg shells.
Protein can be found in:
Certain kind of seeds like
beans, cow-peas, grams,
leucaena.
Cow-peas Soya beans
Mung beans
Leucaena leaves
Cassava leaves
Bean leaves
Egg shells Bones Lime
18
Vitamins can be found in:
All types of fresh plants, fruits, seeds
and other products. There are many
different types of vitamins. These are
provided in sufficient and balanced
quantities by giving your chickens a
wide variety of different foods.
All these components are equally important. The amount of each component needed to make
a good poultry feed varies. Therefore,

a good poultry feed is always a mixture of different
types of food. However when an element is missing or is insufficient in the mixture, egg-
production will drop or growth will be slow because the other components are not utilized.
It is important to have elements from
different feed sources. For example,
not only energy from maize but also
from sorghum, rice bran etc. Not
only protein from fish meal, but also
from plants. Again, good poultry
feed is a mixture of different types
of foodstuffs.
Fruits
Leaves
Grains
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Maize grains
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grains
Rice bran
Fish meal
Beans
19
Chapter 2. FEEDING
Protein: Preparing blood meal. Collect blood from freshly slaughtered animals in a bucket or
pan. Mix it with a teaspoon of salt. Cook it above a fire for five minutes with constant stirring.
4. Improving local poultry feeds
By providing various sources of energy, proteins, vitamins and minerals, the farmer can improve
the quality of the poultry feed. Here below are a number of suggestions which may help the
farmer.
Energy: Do not provide only maize. Try to obtain other energy sources like sorghum, millet,
or crop by-products like maize bran, rice bran, etc. Supply from time to time cooked potatoes,
cooked sweet potatoes, cooked cassava. Prepare powder of cassava leaves, pigeon pea,
cow-pea or leucaena leaves. Harvest the leaves when they are green, dry the leaves under
shade (as sun-rays can distroy the vitamins) and store them in bags. If needed, crush them to
powder and mix them with your other feed.
To give you an idea about the
quantity you can mix, you should
use a tin. Mix one tin of leaf-
powder together with 20 - 40 tins
of your other feeds, This gives
around 5.0 - 2.5 % leaf-powder
in your homemade ration.
Salt
Stir or mix
Fresh blood
Boil for
5 minutes
20
Protein: When a goat or cow is slaughtered, collect the contents of the rumen, dry them in the
sun. Do not store for a long period. Give it separately from other feeds.
Remove it from the fire and dry it in the sun, protected from flies. After drying, store it in a cool
place, and give it in small quantities to your chickens. Never mix more than 1 tin with 40 tins
of your other feed (chickens do not like the taste very much,
,
so mix it well before you give it).
Note: You can store blood meal for only fourteen days, not longer !
Drying in the sun
Cattle rumen
21
Chapter 2. FEEDING
Protein: Trap insects like termites,
ants or worms. Termites and ants may
be trapped with banana leaves and/or
grass. Worms may be caught during
activities in your fields.
Protein: Providing your chickens with another important source of protein can be done by
making a compost heap or pit.
A good compost heap produces a lot of insects, maggots, eggs and other sources of protein
which your chickens like to eat. Collect all plant materials, weeds and harvest residues. Old
litter and other manure from your fields or your compound and heap them together. Add
water regularly and turn the heap upside once every month. Remember that your food crops
will also benefit if you produce good compost to fertilize the land.
Feeding with cattle rumen
Other feed
Spoiled grasses
22
Protein: The flesh of coconuts is rich in protein. After consuming the juice scrape the flesh out
of the nut and give it your chickens. Add no more than 1 tin to 10 tins of your other feed.
Vitamins: If your chickens scavenge around and find most of their feed outside,

they will find
vitamins themselves. When you confine your chickens, make sure that you feed them every
day with fresh greens: vegetables like cabbage, all types of fruits, etc.
Soak grains of maize, sorghum, etc.
in a bucket of water overnight.
Remove them the following day and
feed to the chickens. Alternatively
store it for 4 days on a flat surface
in a dark spot in the house. The
seeds will germinate. When the
germinating seeds are 1-2 cm long
give them to your chickens. These
seedlings contain many vitamins.
Minerals: Preparing bone meal.
Collect bones from slaughtered animals,
char them over a fire until they become
soft. Crush them to powder. Feed the
powder in small quantities to your
chickens. Never mix more than 1 tin to
25 tins of other feed. Alternatively you
can use lime-stone or buy commercially
available mineral/vitamin pre-mixes. Be
careful with egg shells; chickens should
not start the habbit of cracking eggs!
These suggestions for improving the feed composition of your poultry feed can be carried out
by the farmer, just by giving more attention to the preparation of feed. No extra money is
needed.
Soak grains
of maize
Germinating
maize grains
23
Chapter 2. FEEDING
It may be worthwhile considering
buying small quantities of commercial
feeds. Available products worth adding
include fish meal, cotton seed cake,
sunflower cake, sesame cake, broiler
or layer (chicken) feed. Small quantities
of these products may result in
increased egg-production or healthier
chickens. Provide small quantities
mixed together with your own prepared
feed.
5. Using commercial feeds mixed with locally available feeds
Commercial poultry feed can make high producing poultry breeds grow fast (broilers) and lay
many eggs (layers). But as poultry feed is expensive, it is better to use a little for improved
local chicken breeds (like the Yellow Chicken kept under local conditions) and supplement
this with locally available feeds to make you own homemade feed ration. The following main
commercial poultry feeds are available in many markets:
Layer feeds:
This type of feed is meant for layer breeds that can lay up-to 5 eggs per week.
Improved local breeds, however, normally lay only 2 - 3 eggs per week, so using only this
feed is too good and too expensive (it provides more than is required).
Broiler feeds:
This type of feed is meant for broiler breeds that can grow up-to 1.5 - 1.8 kg in 6 weeks.
Improved local breeds, however, normally grow only 1.5 kg in 12 weeks, so using only this
feed is not recommended (too expensive).
Broiler feed Layer feed
Fish
meal
Cotton
seed-cake
Sun flower
seeds
Layer feed Broiler feed
24
It is not economical to use only commercial
feeds for rural Yellow Chicken production.
You can make a homemade ration with locally
available feeds like broken rice, rice bran,
maize, beans, fruits, plants, etc.
To make your poultry feed complete and of
high nutritional value (especially important for
young chickens), you can add and mix
commercial feeds.
For mixing, the best results are obtained by
using "concentrated feed" (usually 30-35%
protein content). But often this feed is not
available in rural areas and then the following
alternatives can be used to make cheap
improved home-made rations.
Example 1: When the chicks are
still young (till 3 months), a good
mix is:
50% or 1 bag locally available
feeds (broken rice, rice bran,
maize, beans, etc) and
50% or 1 bag commercial
broiler feed (usually 22%
protein content).
Example 2: When the chickens are older and start to lay eggs, a good mix is:
65% or 2 bags locally available feeds (broken rice, rice bran, maize, beans, etc) and
35% or 1 bag commercial layer feed (usually 16% protein content).
It is important that you separate the chicks at feeding: chicks require better quality feed than
the older chickens.
Local feed
like: maize,
broken rice,
rice bran, etc.
Broiler feed
Broiler feed
Local available
feed
Layer feed Local available
feed
Local available
feed
25
Chapter 2. FEEDING
Good farmers always crush their grains
(maize, sorghum) before giving them to
their chickens. By crushing the feed, all
the components will become more easily
available to your chickens. Although
adult chickens may easily pickup whole
maize grains, the younger ones will find
it hard to swallow them. Do not crush
the grains to powder.
6. Improving feeding
Apart from improving the quality of feeds, a farmer can also obtain increased production by
paying attention to the quantity of the feed and the way in which the chickens are fed.
A poultry farmer who really wants to
increase egg or meat production, makes
sure that the chickens receive enough feed
to achieve this. The number of chickens
should be adjusted to the quantity of feed
available. If feed is limited, unproductive
hens should be either sold or eaten in order
to allow sufficient feed for the productive
hens. It is better to have 10 productive
chickens for which you can provide enough
feed - than 20 half-starved, unproductive
birds.
Provide feed at least twice a day, in the morning and in the evening. Feed your chickens
before setting them free. A full stomach keeps them closer to the house, thus minimising loss
by predators. Feed the chickens after they return to the house, always at the same time, to
teach them to come back to the (night) pen.
26
Good farmers provide their chickens with fresh drinking water every day. Release your
chickens for a couple of hours to find their own feed. Be careful in the rainy season; make sure
no rain is expected during their hours of freedom.
Good farmers always use a chicken feeder to feed their chickens to prevent wastage. Before
they give the feed, they make sure that the different ingredients are well mixed.
Feed and water intake are key factors for good production, especially in hot climates. At
higher temperatures the chicken needs more water, but can eat less. A hot temperature in the
chicken house should be avoided as this results in lower production. Below are daily intakes
of layers at different temperatures:
Temperature Water intake Feed intake (commercial feed)
20
o
C 23 liters per 100 birds 115 grams per bird
26
o
32
o
38
o
Chapter 3. HOUSING
27
1. Why improve chicken housing?
To protect chickens against rain
and wind.
To protect chickens against wild
animals and predators.
To reduce outbreaks of disease.
But provide chickens with fresh air
and light.
28
To provide the chickens with nests;
comfortable dark places to lay, brood
and hatch their eggs.
To increase egg and meat production.
To improve family diet by
eating surplus eggs and
chickens.
To increase family income
by selling surplus eggs
and chickens.
Chapter 3. HOUSING
29
2. How to make your chickens comfortable and increase
production of eggs and meat
Chickens need a house which is
well protected against rain and
wind.
Chickens need a house with
fresh air and ample daylight.
Healthy chickens have a nice
coat of feathers that can stand
the cold easily. Chickens are
unable to sweat. They need fresh
air to remove body heat; this
they achieve by opening their
beaks.
The housing needs long roofs to
give shade to protect chickens
from the hot sun. Chickens need
a house with enough space to
walk around, to feed and drink
and to lay and hatch eggs.
To be comfortable, chickens need a high
and dark place for sleeping (on perches
or a slatted floor 60 cm above the ground).
30
Chickens hate wet feet and dirty,
smelling floors. It makes them sick.
Young chicks can not stand
cold and wet places. It makes
them sick.
The chicken house should
protect against heavy winds
(closed walls on the side of
the prevaling wind).
3. Principles of good housing
3.1. Protection against rain and wind
Protection against rain is
achieved by a well constructed
roof with overhang, made of
thick thatch or galvanized
iron-sheets.
Chapter 3. HOUSING
31
3.2. Protection against hot sun and high temperature
Poultry houses need long roofs to provide
shade to protect the chickens from the
hot sun. The roof can be of thatched
grass, bamboo sheets, galvanized iron
sheets, tiles, etc. Roofs made of thatched
grass or bamboo sheets are cheap and
good for ventilation, but are not durable.
The cost of tiles or galvanized iron roofs
is high, but these roofs last a long time.
A tall tree will shade the house and reduce the temperature.
Chickens need a house with fresh air
and sufficient day light. In hot climates,
a galvanized iron roof can make the
house very hot during the day.
Shrubs too close to the house will block ventilation and day light.
Chickens are unable to sweat. By
opening their beaks they remove body
heat. This can also be a sign of heat
stress. Chickens in a hot house suffer
from heat stress. They eat less and
thus become less productive (less eggs
and less growth).
Wrong direction: the hot sun penetrates the longest side of the house.
The site of the house and the roof
should protect the chickens from the
hot sun and high temperatures. The
sun should not penetrate the house
at the hottest time of the day. The
direction of the longest side of the
house should be East-West. This
position will provide maximum shade
during the hottest time of the day.
Right direction: the hot sun is blocked by the shortest side of the house.
32
3.3. Protection against wild animals and predators
Solid construction of walls. Made
of bamboo, timber, off-cuts, old
metal-sheets or sticks with clay.
Foundation with stones against
mongoose, stray dogs, rats.
Inner side of walls smooth.
Protection against
biting ants, using ash
or louse powder.
Walls should be at
least 1.8 meter high.
Louse
powder
Ash
1.8 m
Chapter 3. HOUSING
33
3.4. Reduce outbreaks of disease
The floor can be covered with a
layer of litter of 5 cm (levelled
and trampled solid).
The litter must be changed when it is dirty, wet and mouldy to keep away diseases.
Alternatively the house can be made on stilts with a wooden, slatted floor.
The place under the house,
where the manure falls,
must not be accessible to
animals because it often
carries microbes causing
diseases.
Wooden houses need special attention to control external parasites (mites, ticks and lice) by
painting surfaces with carboleum or mixtues of old oil. Clean and disinfect the house and
equipment regularly (e.g. with lime), especially before a new batch of chicken arrives.
5 cm
34
3.5. Provision of fresh air
Two solid walls that are about 1
meter high with windows of
chicken wire or small bamboo
sticks on top. Place these 2 walls
away from the prevailing wind.
3.6. Provision of light inside
Roof construction at least 1.8
meter from ground level.
Advantage: a farmer can enter
the shed. If possible have open
walls facing the rising sun.
Protect the house (provide
shade) from the setting sun.
3.7. Floor space per bird
Provide floor space for drinkers,
feeders, nests and for the birds to
walk. Space requirement for 4 - 6
chicken is at least 1 square meter. 60 cm
90 cm
Chapter 3. HOUSING
35
Feeders/drinkers should be
placed in an open part of the
shed, not too far apart and
close to the nests.
The nests should be constructed in
a dark corner of the house. Placed
60 centimeters above ground level.
4. Type and choice of housing
4.2. Type: night housing
Place where chickens can be confined
during the night.
House should contain perches for
sleeping and nests for laying eggs.
Feeders and drinkers can be placed
outside.
Floor space is not so important.
IMPORTANT: Even with day and night housing, let the chickens outside to feed.
4.1. Type: day and night housing
Housing where all the conditions
discussed above are met.
60 cm
36
4.3. Choice: day and night housing without free range
Day and night housing is preferred in regions with:
High rainfall.
Two foodcrops whereby chickens are enclosed for two periods of six weeks during the
growing season.
Densely populated villages, urban areas.
4.4. Choice: night housing
Only night housing is often used in regions with:
Hot and dry climates.
Where farmers have large plots so that chickens can roam without interfering with
neighbours' chickens.
Where birds can choose to go inside or outside.
4.5. Layout of chicken pen for keeping 15 - 20 birds
d
r
i
n
k
e
r
3
0

c
m
run for hens with
young chicks
35 cm
nests laying eggs
feeder feeder
feeder
drinker
perch 1 m
perch 1 m
perches
1
.
8
0

m
2

m
2 m
3 m
Chapter 3. HOUSING
37
4.6. Night housing with enclosed range
Where there is not enough
feed to provide sufficient
protein, the chickens can find
some food by scratching and
scavenging in the enclosure.
The feeders and drinkers can
be left outside, but moved
every 3-4 days to another
spot in the enclosure.
4.7. Housing with slatted floor
Why? Because then the droppings do not remain in the house. Its stays clean without extra
work for the farmer. The ventilation is also better. The floor of the house is slatted and can be
made of wood or bamboo. The droppings fall on the ground under the house and lower the
risk of diseases.
The space between the bamboo must not
be too big so pullets do not have problems.
The round side should be up with enough
supports across (every 0.5 meter).
The underside must not be accessible
to the chickens. They should not be
able to come and eat the droppings
which could spread disease.
The droppings/manure should be
removed from time to time and
put on the gardens or in fields to
fertilize the plants.
38
5. Other housing models
Housing at large scale poultry farms.
In cages with slatted floor.
Remark: in some countries, small
cages with many birds per square
metre are no longer recommended
because of animal welfare concerns.
In houses with deep litter
on the floor.
Transportable chicken houses.
On stilts and with a slatted floor.
Without a floor allowing chickens
to find feed in the fields without
getting lost. Every day the pen is
moved to a different place in the
field.
Drinker
Feeder
Chapter 3. HOUSING
39
Housing on stilts for 10 - 20 chickens.
Permanent housing
Housing with free-range
Simple temporary housing for quarantine,
brooding, at the market, etc.
Round bamboo cage
Tethered and with a roof
40
NOTES
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41
1. Housing with earth floor and litter
For chickens to be productive, they need good housing containing feeders, drinkers, nests,
roosts or perches and litter. The litter (5 cm) can be made from dried chopped grass, sawdust,
crushed maize cobs, rice husks. etc.
2. Housing on stilts and slatted floor
This type of housing is an alternative
to the earth floor with litter. The house
is on stilts with slatted floor of wood
or bamboo (1 cm thick bamboo
sticks, with 1-2 cm space in between).
The space under the house, where the
manure falls, must be fenced so that
the chicken cannot go there.
Advantages are:
Better protected against predators like
snakes, rats, etc.
Little contact with manure (source of
parasites and diseases like coccidiosis).
No need for litter thus saving labor.
Better ventilation and cleaner air.
5 cm
3 m
1
.
8
0

m
2

m
42
3. Feeders
A good feeder should be able to
feed all your chickens with ease
(i.e. there should be 6-8 cms of
space per chicken).
A good feeder should be able to
adjust to the size of the chickens
(adjustable with stones/timber,
height of the hanging wire).
A good feeder should not allow any
wastage. To prevent wastage, lips should
measure 2 cm. A good feeder should
keep chickens out otherwise they will
soil or waste the feed.
A good feeder should not tip over.
A good feeder can be made out of any
material (like a piece of old tyre) as long
as the above-mentioned principles have
been met.
43
Other types of feeders:
Feeders made of wood,
with lips to reduce spilling.
Advantages of a good feeder:
The feed does not get dirty
(spoiled).
There is no wastage of feed.
Reduced risk of disease.
Saves labor (continous feeding).
4. Drinkers
Drinking water is essential for chickens regardless of whether they are kept inside a house or
are scavenging outside. In dry, hot climates, chickens may consume twice as much water than
they do in high land areas. Therefore, watch the water consumption carefully. Never allow
chickens to run out of clean water. Good, fresh drinking water keeps your chickens healthy
and increases egg production.
The simplest drinker is a tin can inverted
on a pie plate, with a punched hole about
2 cm from the open end of the tin can.
Fill the can with water and cover it with
the plate. With one hand on the plate
and one on the tin can, quickly invert
both. The position of the punched hole
and the vacuum in the tin can will
regulate the water level in the plate. A
weight (like a stone) on the can prevents
chickens from tipping the can.
A feeder for many chickens
(not recommended in places
infested with rats).
3 3
12 cm
1
5

c
m
5
0

c
m
1
0

c
m
45 cm
10 cm 15 cm
Punched
hole
44
A good drinker should be easy
to clean and can be made out
of anything.
A good drinker should not
spill water on the floor or
allow young chicks to fall
into it and drown.
A good drinker should be filled with
fresh water daily. The height of a good
drinker should be adjusted to the size
of the chickens (adjustable with stones
or timber)
Birds should not be able to get in
the drinkers. Better to cover the
drinkers with wire.
Drinker
45
5. Nests
To save eggs from damage and being soiled, your chickens need a place to lay, brood and
hatch their eggs. Having nests for your chickens means:
That eggs will no
longer be laid just
anywhere in the open
where they get dirty or
eaten by birds or other
animals.
It will also mean that you
will be able to collect more
eggs. Your chickens will
not be disturbed during
laying thereby increasing
the number of eggs.
With clean eggs in a nest you will get an increased number of chicks hatched.Your chickens
will be protected against rain and cold nights - reduced risk of disease. A comfortable nest
should give your chickens enough room to hatch comfortably (approx. 35 cm deep and wide).
Good nests should contain
nesting material (chopped,
dried grass or other dry soft
material). A nest should be
used only for laying and
hatching (prevent chickens
from entering when not in
use). The nest should be in a
dark corner of the house (no
direct sunlight) and be raised
50-60 cm from the floor.
35 cm
35 cm
5
0

c
m
2
0

c
m
3
5

c
m
5
0

c
m
46
A nest should be available when your chickens start laying eggs (1 - 2 nests per 5 hens).
A comfortable nest can be made out
of all kinds of materials. Providing
nests for laying hens helps to keep
eggs clean and reduces breakage.
Sometimes baskets, reinforced with
sun-baked clay on the outside, can be
used for nests. Nests should be placed
on the darkest side of the house, pref-
erably where the sun will not reach the
chickens. Line them with fresh litter
and keep them clean. In hot climates,
nests should be in a well ventilated,
but draft-free place.
Nests should be made from cheap and easy to find materials. In case of disease or parasitism
(such as lice) they should be burned.
6. Roosts or perches
Chickens have a natural instinct for sleeping high in trees, where they feel protected against
danger. To make your chickens feel comfortable, the chicken house should have perches to
allow them to roost during the night.
Perches stop your chickens from
sleeping in the nests, feeders or
drinkers, so they do not get soiled
during the night.
Perches that are a bit rectanglar (4
by 2 cm) give chickens a better grip
and more balance then round
perches.
Good perches should be placed
high up in the chicken house, higher
than your nests (but not directly on
top of these nests). To keep your
chickens out of air currents, the
perches should be around 1 meter
high.
1

m
1 m
47
Good perches are thick or have
edges (4 by 2 cm) allowing chickens
to have a better grip with their feet
then on small round perches.
Good perches should have space
for all your chickens (20 cm per
bird). The perch should be 1 meter
high.
7. Litter
Litter is dry moisture-absorbing
material which is spread on the floor
(straw, hay, shredded paper, wood
shavings, sawdust, rice husks, etc.).
Litter absorbs chicken droppings and
waste water from your drinkers.
Litter reduces the risk of disease:
this is particularly so for small
chicks which are susceptible to
cold, humidity and air currents.
1

m
1 m
48
Litter makes the floor of your
shed easy to clean and reduces
the risk of disease. Old litter is
an excellent manure for your
food crops.
A good layer of litter should
be at least 5 cm thick.
Wet patches in the litter (leakage, waste
water) should be removed immediately
and replaced. All the litter should be
removed, the floor cleaned, and fresh
litter put down at least twice a year.
When the housing is on stilts with
a slatted floor, the underside must
not be accessible to the chickens.
They must not come and eat in the
droppings and spread disease. The
litter should be removed regularly
and put on the gardens to fertilize
the plants.
5 cm
Chapter 5. SELECTION and CULLING
49
1. Improving poultry production
In other chapters ways of improving local poultry management (improved housing, feeding, health
care, etc.) are presented. If these suggestions are carried out, the number of chickens will increase.
Example: Before following these
suggestions, the farmer had 4
hens, 2 cocks and 3 chicks.
Example: After following these
suggestions, the farmer has a
productive flock of 8 hens, 1
cock, 4 growers and 10 chicks.
The next step for farmers is to improve flock management. Flock management means that
farmers keep a limited number of productive hens and cocks as a breeding flock. This breed-
ing flock will provide an increased number of eggs and chicks.
The size of the breeding flock will depend on:
The quantity of feed farmers can give
to their chickens. To get a good
production farmers have to provide
chickens with good quality feed.
The size of the chicken house: the
farmer should prevent overcrowding.
The quantity of eggs and chickens for
sale or consumption.
This means that farmers should start
planning their poultry production.
Chicken
for sale
50
To obtain a good breeding flock, farmers should start selecting their hens and cocks. Selection
means the separation of productive hens and well-sized, active cocks. The remaining birds
should be sold as soon as they have attained a proper size. Timely culling of mature chickens,
especially cocks, is important as the feed that these unproductive chickens eat can better be
eaten by chickens that grow or lay eggs.
A farmer selecting her
chickens to remain as a
part of her productive
flock.
A farmer selling her unproductive
hens and her surplus of cocks.
It is important to select from all the chickens; this is
equally important for different types of chicken breeds.
Local hen
Crossbreed hen
Pure breed
Good selection involves four steps: selecting the hatching eggs, selecting the
growers (pullets), selecting the productive hens and selecting the breeding cocks.
Choose
these
Chicken
for sale
51
2. Step 1: the choice of good hatching eggs
Good hatching eggs should be chosen from good producing hens.
Hen with 6 eggs.
Hen with 15 eggs. Choose this
clutch as hatching eggs.
Good hatching eggs should
have a normal size.
Good hatching eggs should
not be dirty or damaged.
Choose
this hen
52
Good hatching eggs should not be too old. Use only eggs which are not more than 10
days old (better, not older than 1 week).
Hatching eggs should be removed from the laying nest and be stored in a cool and dark
place (best at 15 - 20
o
C).
Remove the eggs from the
nests and store them in a
cool place.
After the farmer has selected her eggs, she should equally select a good broody hen to hatch
the eggs. The other hens can continue laying eggs.
Select broody hens that have shown good brooding qualities. Likely these are older hens
that have hatched before with good results.
The hen should be free of fleas or other external parasites (suggestion: put some tobacco
leaves in the hatching nest).
A clutch of 10 chicks in the rains.
Soon 7 are dead because of cool,
wet conditions and lack of feed.
Equally important is the period of
hatching. When the hens get broody
at the start of the rainy season it is
important that the newly hatched
chicks are protected from the rain.
They should stay indoors being fed
a good home-made ration and only
be let out during sunny periods.
53
It is better for farmers to chose the end of the rainy season as hatching period. As a result they
will be able to raise more chicks because of better feed and improved climatic conditions.
The hen is brooding and the rice
is being harvested. Sunny and
dry conditions.
As a result of good climate
conditions, only 2 chicks have
died. With good management,
no chicks should die.
Good brooding management (good feeding and a warm, dry place) and vaccination against
Newcastle Disease, will keep mortality low and produce a good number of growers (chickens
aged between 8 - 20 weeks).
3. Step 2: selecting grower females (pullets)
After about 17 weeks the second selection step has to take place, preferably at a time when
the offspring has reached a good size. The selection criteria are the following:
One hen with 10 chicks One hen with 4 chicks
When possible, select the
off-spring growers from
good producing hens. You
need to consider this when
you select the hatching eggs.
The potential for good egg
production is transmitted
from mother to daughter.
Choose
healthy
growers
54
Three selected growers and
12 unselected growers.
Choose fast growing, healthy females.
Ten growers of various
sizes, 3 big ones.
Select females that search continuously, far and wide, for food.
Five hens chatting and being
lazy in the sun, 1 searching
actively for feed.
Choose
these one's
Choose
this hen
55
After having separated selected growers, the farmer should sell the remaining, un-selected
birds. The farmer should realise once more that production will be dependent on the amount
and quality of feed provided. The farmer should consider supplementing future hens with small
quantities of commercial feed.
4. Step 3: selecting productive hens
The third step in selection is the choice of good producing hens. In general, the farmer should
realise that hens produce the most eggs during the first 1.5 years of life. This means that hens
kept for producing eggs, should be replaced after 1.5 years by their female offspring. The
replacement stock should be selected from older hens that are productive and have good
hatching qualities.
Select hens that start laying early.
First egg produced after 24 weeks, 26 weeks and 28 weeks.
Select active hens that look continuously far and wide for feed. You can distinguish them
because they will have a strong, short beak and short toenails because of scavenging.
1 hen scavenging 3 hens chatting
Select
this hen
Select
this hen
56
Select hens with a bright red comb
and wattles and with bright, alert
eyes.
Make sure that your hens are
producing eggs regularly. This
can be done by measuring the
space between the laying (pelvic)
bones. For productive hens the
distance should be at least two
to three fingers. Also watch the
nests for productive hens.
Two to three fingers
Hen with rough legs Hen with healthy legs
Select hens with a clean, soft and large
vent (cloacal opening).
Select hens that have healthy legs (no
mites under the scales).
One finger
Select like
this
Select this
hen
57
Good hens may look a bit dirty and pale because of the laying of many eggs or taking care of
their clutch. A culling hook can be used to catch chickens for examination. The hook catches
the chicken by the leg.
5. Step 4: selecting breeding cocks
Apart from selecting productive hens, the choice of a good cock for breeding is equally
important.
When possible select a cock from a good producing hen. The potential for increased egg
production is also transmitted by the father.
Hen with 4 chicks Hen with 10 chicks
Catching a chicken with a culling hook.
Select this
mother hen
Select this
cock
58
Select a fast growing cock.
Select a cock with bright, alert eyes and
large red comb and wattles.
Select a cock that goes after the hens.
Cock idling in the sun. Cock chasing hens.
Select a cock
chasing hens
Select this
cock
59
Apart from selecting a good cock (rooster), the farmer should realise the importance of
changing the cock regularly to prevent inbreeding. Everybody knows that it is not good to
cross a father cock with daughter hens. Inbreeding leads to:
poor egg production,
weaker offspring and therefore more
suspectible to diseases and higher
mortality,
poor fertlity and poor hatchability,
deformed offspring.
Remark
If farmers are serious about having a
good breeding flock then they should
change their cocks with every new
generation.
For indigenous cocks it means that they
should exchange their cock with a cock
of neighbouring farms.
Always quarantine and
vaccinate incoming
animals.
When farmers have hybrid chickens (or an improved breed), they should exchange or replace
their own cock with another hybrid or improved cock from another farmer.
When bringing in a new hen or cock, always keep them for two weeks in a separate coop
(quarantine) to see that they are free from disease. You can put one of your chickens with it to
see if it develops a disease.
60
NOTES
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Chapter 6. HATCHING and BROODING
61
1. Improved hatching management
With improved hatching management, more chicks will come out of the total number of eggs
the hen started to brood and hatch.
The number of eggs produced and the
number of chicks hatched depends on:
The quality and the quantity of feed
provided to the chicken.
The cock: hen ratio. To make sure
that the eggs are fertile, not more
than 10 hens should be served by 1
cock. If the farmer has more than 10
hens, another cock should be added.
The laying, brooding and hatching
place.
The way the eggs are stored during
the period the hen is producing eggs.
The age of the eggs given to the hen
for hatching.
Increasing the number of eggs produced
means that the hen has to be provided
with good chicken feed.
Ensure that your chicken has a proper nest to produce the eggs. A proper nest means:
The nest should be placed in a dark, quiet
corner of your chicken house.
The nest should be clean and sun-dried
before the hen starts producing eggs.
The nest should contain nesting material
(dried cut grass, saw dust etc.) to prevent
eggs being damaged or getting dirty.
62
If a number of hens are
laying and brooding,
provide a nest for each
of them.
To increase the possibility of successful hatching, the eggs should be selected. Do not use
eggs for hatching purposes which are:
too small; below 45 grams (these eggs might be without a yolk)
normal; 45 - 70 grams = good
too big; over 70 grams (these eggs might contain two yolks)
Show any damage on the shell
(cracked or deformed).
Do not use eggs for hatching purposes which:
63
Very dirty (covered with chicken droppings
etc.) or eggs which are found on the floor or
outside the chicken house.
Too old (more than 10 days).
Select only those eggs which are clean and uniform in size.
When you open an egg, a bad egg looks flat or very flat, while a good egg is round.
When your hens are laying, it is important to collect the eggs frequently and regularly (especially
in the morning when most of the eggs are laid). Store them in a specific place. In this way you
increase the chance of obtaining chicks and you reduce the risk that the eggs:
will be damaged,
get dirty,
become too old.
For the sake of encouraging your hen
to make use of the laying nest, leave
only one egg in each nest. To be sure
you leave the same egg, mark this egg
with a pencil (a pencil mark does not
spoil the egg).
Good quality egg Bad quality egg
Very bad quality egg
64
Your eggs should be stored properly.
Store your eggs in a cool and dark place. The cooler the place (best between 15 - 20
o
C),
the longer you can store your eggs.
To increase the possibility of successful hatching:
Ensure that no direct sunlight
falls on the eggs.
Never store your eggs on the floor.
Store your eggs with the pointed side
downwards. In this way the air cell of the
egg is upwards. To achieve this you could
use an egg tray.
Prevent draughts in the place where
you store the eggs.
65
When you have to store
eggs for one week, you
should turn them upside
down every day. Turning
can be done as shown in
the left drawing.
Clean the eggs well before storage. Do not
wash eggs; washed eggs are unlikely to
produce chicks. Very dirty eggs and eggs
from the floor are not kept for hatching. You
can distinguish stored eggs from different
hens by marking them with a pencil!
The maximum period for storing eggs, depends
on the way the eggs are stored and the outside
temperature. The cooler the region, the longer
you can store eggs without spoiling. As an
indication, eggs can be stored up to 7-10 days,
afterwards the chance of obtaining chicks will
be reduced.
2. The brooding and hatching period
When your hen gets broody (starts sitting on the eggs) give her the eggs you have stored. Not
more than fifteen eggs. The hatching period will be 21 days.
Feed her well during this period, separately from your other chickens (feeder and drinker
close to the nest). Doing this means that your hen:
Will take good care of her
brooding and hatching duties (no
need to go far looking for food).
Will remain in a good condition.
After her brooding and hatch-
ing duties have finished, she will
be able to produce eggs again
quickly.
First day Second day
Drinking
water
Feed
66
3. The initial rearing period
The term "broody period" or "broody hen" covers not only the period when the hen is actually
sitting on her eggs, but also the first few weeks when she is taking great care of her chicks (the
intial rearing period). Many young chicks die during the first 4 weeks of their life and the main
causes of mortality are:
Cold and/or wet environment.
Especially at night the young
chicks need to be kept warm
(30-31
o
C).
Improper feeding.
The chicks are taken
by predators.
Diseases (parasites and
infections).
67
To reduce mortality during this initial period the farmer should confine the chicks together
with the hen for at least four weeks in a so-called rearing pen.
A good rearing place means that:
The hen and chicks are
separated from the other
chickens.
Extra care and feeding
for hen and chicks.
Hen and chicks in cage
with water and feed.
the pen is well protected against rain,

wind and draught,
if cold, extra heat should be given,
the floor is covered with fresh litter (sawdust, wood-shaving, crushed maize cobs, etc),
the pen prevents predators (cats, mongoose etc.) from entering,
day-light enters the pen,
the space is big enough to allow hen and chicks to walk around.
The hen should stay with her
chicks to provide them with
warmth and shelter. If the sun is
shining you can allow mother and
chicks to go out for a short while.
Feeding and fresh water are very
important during the initial period.
Do not forget: the more attention
to good feeding, the better the
chances your chicks will stay alive
and grow to be healthy and big.
Brooding small chicks
68
4. Feeding suggestions
Chicks should have fresh water from the beginning and it should be available at all times.
For the first 3 days give feed for the chicks on an old newspaper, piece of iron-sheet or
timber, old egg tray etc. It makes it easier for your chicks to find the feed. After this period
you should provide the feed in a proper feeder adjustable to the size of your chicks.
Crush your grains (maize, sorghum, millet)
before giving it to your chicks.
Do not feed one sort of grain only. Provide
a mixture of different sorts or alternate.
Soak your grains (maize, sorghum).
If possible, buy a small quantity of
commercial chick feed to supplement the
feed for your chicks. When you do not want
the hen to eat it, leave her out for a while.
Various sorts of beans (green gram, cow
pea, pigeon pea, local beans, etc.) provide
essential feed ingredients for chicks. If you
prepare them for the family, crush some
for your chicks as well.
Kitchen leftovers (cooked potatoes, sweet potatoes, cassava, etc.) are valuable for giving
to your chicks. Take away the remainder daily.
Make sure that your chicks cannot fall and drown in the drinker you have given them.
Feed for
small
chicks
Soaked maize
Germinated maize
69
5. Vaccination
Ask your Village Veterinary Worker (VVW) to vaccinate your chicks against Newcastle
Disease. In order to reduce the costs of the vaccination, ask your neighbours to vaccinate
their young chicks as well. When you vaccinate your young chicks, vaccinate your other
chickens at the same time.
6. Two stories
To conclude here are two farmers experiences which may be useful for you.
a. A lady farmer in Luang Prabang successfully hatched 125 chicks at the same time.
Here is her story: First I took part in a cockerel exchange programme. Then I was lucky
enough to get 15 offspring pullets of approximately the same age. When the offspring were
about 4 months old, and because I wanted to prevent inbreeding, I exchanged my cock for
another. I wanted to get as many chicks as possible at the same time. In order to achieve this,
I started to trick my hens as soon as they started producing eggs. First of all, I left a single
marked egg in each hen's nest. The other eggs I stored in a dark and cool place. After 10
days, when the first hen became broody, I gave her only the marked egg to hatch. After a few
days, a second hen became broody, and I I gave her a single marked egg to hatch. After 10
days I had 10 broody hens, each sitting on only one egg. Then I gave them all the eggs I had
stored. So I had 10 hens hatching on 130 eggs. Of these 125 hatched, so I had 125 chicks all
born within a few days of each other. I kept them for 3 months, then I sold them in one batch
and with the proceeds I was able to buy 50 commercial layer chicks and the necessary feed
for rearing.
b. Another farmer in Luang Namtha has a different practice. Although his hens produce
eggs throughout the year, he sells most of his eggs. He allows his hens to hatch the eggs only
twice a year, just towards the end of the rainy season and at the early start of the rainy season.
His reasoning is as follows: When I have chicks during the dry season, there is hardly any
available feed for them because nothing grows in the fields. I lose many due to improper
feeding. When my chicks are hatched during the rainy season many of them die because of
disease. The right time to have young chicks is when the rains have just ended or have just
started, which means that there is enough for my chicks to eat while the risk of losing chicks
through disease is much reduced.
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Chapter 7. PARENT-STOCK KEEPER with an INCUBATOR
71
1. The parent-stock keeper
If you have reliable electricity and keep hens for reproductive purposes, you might wish to
use an incubator. Your hens can then continue laying eggs instead of wasting time hatching
these eggs.
Parent-stock keepers
should have their
poultry flock well
apart from the village
poultry.
In many villages, small-scale farmers do not vaccinate their birds regularly (or not at all). This
means that diseases often occur, sometimes with high mortality. Vaccination gives the best
protection when all farmers vaccinate their flocks. When only a few farmers vaccinate, then
the disease can still spread to all birds in the village.
The parent-stock keeper should keep his/her expensive poultry flock well apart from the
village flocks and the birds should be vaccinated according to the recommended schedules
(see Annex1).
The parent-stock keeper
should encourage the
neighbours to vaccinate
their flocks also to mini-
mize disease outbreaks.
72
2. The use of a small incubator
This small incubator has 2 setting-trays
(each with 144 eggs) and a hatching
tray for 120 eggs. Small incubators have
the setting and hatching trays in one
compartment. Big incubators have
separated compartments for incubating
and hatching to achieve better hatch-
ing results.
The setting-trays keep the fertilized
eggs from 0 till 18 days. The trays need
to be turned regularly (at least once
every 4 hours), manually or automati-
cally. The temperature should be kept
constant between 37.5 to 38.5
o
C with
a humidity of around 55%. It is advis-
able to put new eggs in batches in the
incubator, like every 5 or 7 days.
Close to hatching, the eggs are moved
from the setters to the hatching tray to
stay from 18 till 21 days (till hatching).
In big incubators with a separate
hatching compartment, the humidity is
increased to around 80%.
73
Eggs for hatching should be selected
carefully. The shell should be clean, smooth
with no cracks, of a normal shape and
weighing 50 70 grams. The fertilized eggs
should be kept cool (from 15 to 22
o
C )
and be not older than 10 days. Store the
eggs with the large end up (pointed end
down). See also chapter Hatching and
Brooding.
The eggs in the incubator need to be candled at 7 days to see if they are fertile. At 18 days,
before being put into the hatchery tray, the eggs need to be candled again to see if the embryo
is dead or alive. Fertilized eggs and eggs with living embryos have a sharp border-line between
the egg and air-cell (the air-cell of a bad egg also becomes cloudy). This border-line can be
seen easily by candling the eggs. Eggs that do not have a sharp border line should be taken out
of the incubator.
The candle box with a bulb inside,
shining through a hole to light
and see through the egg-shell.
7 days - fertile 18 days - alive
7 days - infertile 18 days - dead
Hole with light
Bulb
Candle box
74
The development of a fertilized egg into a well developed embryo over a period of 21 days.
The hatching trays should be washed
after every batch of hatched eggs and
dried in the sun before replaced in
the incubator. The whole incubator
needs to be disinfected every 3
months with formaline and kept
empty for a few days. This requires
careful planning by the farmer. Do
do not store too many eggs and for
too long when you can not use the
incubator during that period.
Keep the incubator room clean and dispose of hatched egg-shells far away as they can
spread diseases.
With selecting only good eggs, good hatching management (e.g. cleanliness and regular turning
of the eggs) and an uninterrupted supply of electricity, the hatching percentage should be
around 70% or more.
75
3. Brooding rings
After hatching, the chicks need protection from cold and drafts. This can be arranged by keeping
the chicks in brooder rings of 0.60 meter height with a heating source. Often electric light-bulbs are
sufficient to supply enough warmth. During the first week the chicks need a temperature of around
30
o
C. During the second week the temperature should be decreased to around 26
o
C. The wall of
the ring should be closed to avoid any draft and to keep the brooding area warm. Do not put the
feeders and drinkers under the heating source. The litter material can be of wood shavings, rice
hulls, chopped rice straw, etc.
Temperature can be
controlled by putting
more or less bulbs, or
by hanging the bulbs
higher or lower.
Too Cold Just Right Too Hot
Brooder temperature top view of chicks distributed around the heater source.
76
4. Sexing
Young chicks can sometimes be sexed by color (males and females are of different colors)
and sometimes on feather appearance (see below). Feather sexing is possible with the Yellow
Chicken breed. Pure line sexing requires special skills and is based on the difference of
appearance of the vent (cloaca). Or, just wait till the male and female characteristics appear,
usually after 2-3 months.
Feather sexing needs skills that need to be learned. This method is best carried out when
chicks are about six hours old. Hold the chick in one hand, legs downwards. Take the small
wing and pull it out to observe the feathers as below.
Female:
The bottom (back) row of feathers is always longer than the top (front) row.
Male (type 1):
Both rows of feathers are
the same length.
Male (type 2):
The bottom (back) row of feathers
is shorter than the top (front) row.
Both male types can can occur within the same chicken breed.
77
5. Health care of chicks
During the first three weeks the chicks need to be vaccinated against Newcastle Disease,
Infectious Bronchitis and Fowl Pox, but preferably also against Mareck and Gumboro. See
also Annex 1: Vaccination schedule for poultry.
Parent-stock keepers should keep available at all times supplies of antibiotics and
coccidiostats for use in drinking water. As soon as chicks show first signs of disease,
treatment should be initiated.
Parent-stock keepers should be encouraged to raise the chicks for 3 weeks. This will allow
the chicks to receive the basic vaccinations and to grow strong to withstand the stress of
transportation.
Sometimes chicks are
de-beacked to prevent
canabilism in pens
where many birds are
kept.
78
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Chapter 8. DISEASE CONTROL
79
1. General animal health problems
Animal health problems can be classified into 4 groups:
Nutritional: Good food in sufficient quantities at all times will avoid this problem. Lack of
feed will make the chickens weak and susceptible to diseases.
Poisoning: If chickens eat rat poison, fertilizer, weed killer or insecticide they can die from
poisoning.
Infectious: Animals become sick and some diseases can cause death. Diseases are caused
by germs that are too small to be seen by the naked eye. The signs of the disease can be
seen in the sick animal and in the organs after its death. Sick chickens can easily pass on
the disease to healthy chickens living closely together.
Parasitic: Parasites alone seldom kill birds, but sick birds grow slowly and do not seem in
good health. In many cases parasites can be found inside or outside the body (worms,
lice) or in the pen (blood-mites suck blood from the chickens at night and hide during
day-time under the perches and slatted floors).
Village with livestock
80
2. Where do diseases come from?
Disease can be brought in by other animals,
wild animals and birds, feed or by water and
air. In some cases it can be brought in on the
feet, clothes and body of people coming back
from the market.
Infections can sometimes be passed on from
the hen to the chicks through the egg. Some
chickens can recover and show no sign of
disease, but they still carry and spread the
infection and cause other chickens to become
ill and die.
3. How to avoid diseases
3.1. Good housing
The chicken should at least return home at
night for checking, protection and
supplementary feeding. The floor must be
cleaned often. Chickens should have as little
contact as possible with faeces (preferably
by the use of a slatted floor made of
bamboo). There should be enough space in
the chicken house for each chicken. Not too
crowded; 4 to 6 adults per square meter.
3.2. Good nutrition
Chickens usually find enough food to survive,
but they also need a feed supplement given
by the owner. Food should be given regularly:
every day at the same times, better twice a
day. If the chickens come back only for the
night, feed should be given after they come
to the chicken house.
81
It is good to keep the birds of
different households or different
areas of the village apart and not
in contact with each other. This
will limit the mortalities in case
of a disease outbreak.
3.3. Keeping flocks apart
One household with sick
chickens and one household
with healthy chickens.
3.4. Quarantine housing
A newly bought chicken can carry a disease,
but not yet show signs of disease. It can have
been in contact with a sick chicken in the
market or it can have caught a disease on the
way to the village. It is better to keep new
chickens separate (apart) from the rest of the
flock for 2 weeks, in quarantine housing.
During this period the disease will have time
to show. It is also a good time to vaccinate
and deworm the chickens.
A quarantine house should be small and
simple because it will not keep many birds
at the same time. It must be located as far
as possible from the other birds in the
village. The chickens should NOT go out
of the house at any time during the
quarantine period. You will have to give
enough food and water and watch them
carefully for signs of problems and diseases.
82
3.5. Vaccination and treatment
4. How to recognise a sick bird
Loss of feathers, diarrhoea,
blood in faeces, sneezing,
difficult breathing, etc. are
more specific signs which
may indicate the type of the
disease.
Less activity; it does not run away; it eats less or stops eating; stays hidden. Abnormal
movements; the feathers become ruffled or sticky.
Birds can be vaccinated against important diseases
and sometimes diseases can be controlled if they
are seen very soon and action is taken rapidly. A
sick animal does not have to be very sick to spread
the disease. It is important to check the health,
habits and appearance of the birds every day.
Always observe chickens when you feed them, to see if any eats less than usual.
Vaccine
Sick
chickens
83
5. What to do when a chicken dies or is sick
5.1. Quarantine
Birds that look unhealthy must be immediately
removed from the flock. Observe the birds in
quarantine and note their signs. After the
outbreak (when chickens in quarantine have
died), burn the whole quarantine house to
eliminate any possible remaining source of the
disease.
Do not give the left-over feed from sick chickens
or from the quarantine house to healthy
chickens.
Once the birds are in quarantine, it is easy
to see the disease signs and determine
whether or not the chickens will die. If
you find a dead chicken with no apparent
traces of injury, do not eat it; but ask the
veterinarian to examine the carcass. Open
the carcass and look at the internal organs
and note abnormal findings. Then burn
the carcass.
5.2. Call for veterinary assistance
The nearest veterinary worker should be
called for assistance and asked to treat the
sick chickens. If there is a good chance of
recovery, a treatment can be undertaken
(see next chapter). The VVW will perhaps
prescribe antibiotics and/or other medicine.
It is better to treat all the birds that have
been recently in contact with the dead
chicken.
84
The veterinary worker should report outbreaks of disease to the district veterinarian as
soon as possible.
Be prepared to give the following information:
ages and number of infected birds,
description of the signs,
length of time the signs have been observed,
number of birds that have died,
time between first signs of illness and death,
types and dates of vaccinations.
5.3. Treatment or elimination of sick chickens
If the disease is recognized it is likely that the whole flock will need to be treated. If the
prognosis is very bad, it is sometimes better to slaughter the whole flock. This may limit the
financial losses for the farmer. Do not eat sick chickens or unhealthy parts. Carcasses or
remains must be burned or buried under a compost heap.
6. Slaughter of chickens
1 The chickens can be killed by
dislocating the neck, bleeding or
cutting off the head. Dip the chicken
in very hot water for a short time to
ease the removal of the feathers.
2 Remove all the feathers and splash
with hot water to wash off all feathers.
3 Cut from the vent down to the head.
4 Pull out the intestines and organs and
examine these. If everything is normal,
the chicken can be eaten. Separate
liver and heart from intestines. Cut and
wash the intestines separately. Eat all
the meat as soon as possible.
85
7. Story of two friends
Two friends bring
newly bought chickens
to their village.
One farmer puts the newly
bought chickens directly
with his poultry flock. His
friend is careful and puts the
newly bought chickens first
in a quarantine house.
Unfortunately, after some
days it turns out that the
newly bought chickens
were already sick and
brought their disease to the
village.
86
The first farmer has many
dying chickens, but the
second farmer lost only
the newly bought chicken
as his poultry flock had
no contact with that sick
chicken.
It is even better to put one bird of the resident flock with the newly bought chickens in quarantine
as some chickens can carry the disease but not show any signs of the disease. If the bird of the
resident flock dies or gets sick, it indicates that the newly bought chickens carry disease and
should not be introduced to the flock.
Chapter 9. POULTRY DISEASES
87
1. Newcastle Disease
What is Newcastle Disease (NcD)?
Newcastle Disease is caused by a virus,
which is found worldwide in poultry. The
mortality rate can be very high, especially
among young chicks (up to 100%).
What are the signs of the disease?
The most obvious signs are a sudden high
number of deaths in all age groups and a drop
in egg production (30-50% or more). The
clinical signs are coughing, nervousness,
difficulty in breathing, greenish diarrhoea,
(partial) paralysis, twisted necks and thin egg
shells. When opening the carcass of adults,
the trachea is red and the intestine red
sometimes red - black.
How is NcD transmitted?
Newcastle Disease virus is highly contagious
through infected droppings and respiratory
discharge between birds. In addition the virus
can be spread through contaminated
equipment, feed, people, air or infected wild
birds. Eggs laid by infected hens may contain
the virus. In a hatchery this may lead to a
whole hatch being contaminated before the
disease becomes apparent.
88
Can it be treated and controlled?
Good quarantine practice and avoiding the introduction of new carriers of the disease greatly
decreases the risk of an outbreak. There is no treatment for this disease. To prevent the
spread of the disease, all birds at the farm or village should be vaccinated regularly. The
following two vaccination programs are applicable for Lao conditions:
A combination of two vaccinations; the first vaccine (NcD-F strain) is given in the first
week (1 drop for each eye or nostril) and the second vaccine (NcD-M strain) about 6
weeks later (intra-muscular). Annual revaccination is required with the NcD-M strain.
The storage of the vaccines requires a refrigerator (cold chain).
Using a heat resistant vaccine (HR-NcD). This vaccine does not require refrigeration and
can be administered via eye drops, feeding with cooked rice and via drinking water.
Use of the Heat Resisistant Newcastle Disease vaccine - via eye drop method:
This vaccine can be given to the chickens via the eye drop method. This method gives better
protection than the other methods (via cooked rice or drinking water). Always read the drug
instructions for correct preparation and administration. The following preparation is for a
small vial with 25 doses (often enough for one household). The vaccine can be safely
administered to chickens of any age from one day old to adult. For good protection, the flock
should be revaccinated every 3 - 4 months.
a) Materials
Distilled water or very clean water.
Plastic sterile syringe of 3 or 5ml.
One vial with 25 doses.
Eye or nose dropper.
Drinking
Water
Distilled
water
1 Vial for 25 chickens
89
b) Calibrating an eye-dropper
One vial contains 25 doses (for 25
chickens). It is possible to use the syringe
as an eyedropper by removing the needle.
Beforehand, measure the volume of 50
drops of water from the syringe you will be
using (2 drops per bird). This is the volume
of water you will use to dilute your vaccine.
c) Mixing the vaccine with water
(1) Suck into the syringe the correct
volume of distilled water that will
produce 50 drops.
(2) Inject the water into the vial.
(3) Shake the vial very well.
(4) After the vaccine is well mixed, suck
the mixture back into the syringe.
(5) By removing the needle, the syringe
can be used as an eyedropper.
d) Administration of the vaccine
Usually 2 drops per bird is best (one drop
in each eye). The same number of drops is
given to young or mature chickens. Hold
the head of the chicken still and slowly give
the 2 drops using the syringe or the
eyedropper. The hand holding the
eyedropper should rest on the other hand.
It is easier to drop into the eye when the
head and the hand move together. Also
there is less danger of sticking the dropper
into the eye.
40-50 drops
90
e) Frequency of vaccination
The eye-drop method gives the best and longest immunity compared to feeding with cooked
rice or via drinking water. With the eye-drop method chickens should be revaccinated at least
3 times a year (better 4 times). Special care should be given to chicks born between these
periods. They need to be vaccinated as soon as possible.
f) Vaccination period
Only healthy chickens should be vaccinated (DO NOT VACCINATE SICK ANIMALS).
Do not ask for vaccination when there is an outbreak. It is advisable to ask the local village
farmers when (seasonal) NcD outbreaks are most common and to plan vaccination campaigns
accordingly one or two months prior to the expected time of the outbreak.
g) Storage
Keep the vaccine in a cool and dark place. Never expose it to sunlight. The heat resistant
vaccine remains good at room temperature for two weeks if it is properly stored. Do not buy
vaccines when the expiry date has passed. For long time storage (e.g. in the pharmacy), the
vaccine should be kept in the refrigerator.
As Newcastle Disease is highly
contagious, it is important that all
the chickens in the village are
vaccinated at the same time. The
vaccination program should be
explained especially to women as
they generally rear the chickens.
If the vaccination program is
followed correctly, then very few
chickens should die of Newcastle
Disease. But the chickens may
still die of other diseases such as
Fowl Cholera.
Village approach and women participation:
91
2. Fowl Cholera (or pasteurellosis)
What is Fowl Cholera?
Fowl Cholera is caused by bacteria, that
are found everywhere and can cause high
levels of mortality in both chickens and
ducks.
What are the signs of the disease?
The most obvious sign is a sudden high
number of deaths. Other signs are swollen
combs and wattles, discharge from nose and
beak, difficult breathing and greenish-yellow
diarrhoea. On the skin of the carcass and
also on the intestines there may be many red
spots.
How is Fowl Cholera transmitted?
Fowl Cholera is spread between the birds
through droppings and respiratory discharge.
In addition the bacteria can spread through
contaminated equipment, feed, animals,
people, air and infected wild birds. The liquid
from the eyes and beak is highly infective.
Can it be treated and controlled?
Many antibiotics (like Penicillin) will lower the mortality from Fowl Cholera. Be careful with
sulpha drugs (like Sulphamerazine) with layers, as this drug will affect the reproductive organs.
Most drugs are given in the feed or water. If the disease cannot be quickly controlled, it is
better to cull the entire flock for slaughter. Burn the chicken house and start with a new,
healthy and vaccinated group of chickens after 4 weeks.
To prevent the disease, all birds at the farm or village should be vaccinated. After the vaccination
it takes 3 weeks before the chickens are protected against the disease. Once an outbreak has
started, it is too late and it is useless to vaccinate.
92
Preparation, handling and storage of the vaccine:
a) Materials for vaccination
Plastic sterile syringe of 3ml.
One vial with 50 doses.
Two hypodermic needles (22-23 G).
b) Preparing the syringe
(1) Shake the vaccine bottle well.
(2) Suck into the syringe 1ml of vaccine.
(3) Remove the needle from the syringe.
This needle stays in the bottle.
(4) Put a new needle on the syringe.
Vaccinate the chickens with this needle.
Do not use the same needle to vaccinate
the chickens and to suck the vaccine from
the bottle.
c) Administration of the vaccine
Sub-cutaneous injection in the wing-web
or in the neck, under the skin.
Vaccinate all young chicks after 1 month of age.
Revaccinate chickens of all ages every 3 months, or at least in February and October.
The following program is applicable for Lao conditions:
Fowl
cholera
50
doses
93
d) Vaccination schedule
Chickens should be revaccinated at least 3 times a year (better 4 times). All vaccinations must
be done when there is no disease problem present; vaccination does not cure the chickens
that are already sick. Only healthy chicken should be vaccinated; protection against the disease
starts 3 weeks after the vaccination.
e) Vaccine storage
Use the vaccine within 1 day of receipt. Keep the vaccine cold (cold box with ice, refrigerator, or
in a plastic bag in cold water). Never expose it to sunlight or freeze the vaccine.
Fowl Cholera is highly contagious and
all villagers should participate in the
vaccination program to ensure that all
the chickens are vaccinated at the
same time. The vaccination program
should be explained especially to
women as they generally rear the
chickens. If the vaccination programs
against Fowl Cholera and Newcastle
diseases are followed correctly, very
few chickens should die.
3. Salmonellosis
Salmonellosis (Fowl Typhoid and Pullorum Disease) is caused by bacteria, which are found
worldwide. Chickens are most susceptible but turkeys can be affected too. The mortality rate
can be high. The symptoms are drooping wings, high mortality and diarrhoea. In chicks,
infected with Pullorum Disease, the diarrhoea is white and sticky (over 50% of the chicks may
die). The infected birds are an important cause in the spread of the disease. The eggs and
faeces of the sick birds are infected with the bacteria. Contaminated feed, water, and litter are
also dangerous.
Village approach and women participation:
94
Treatment and control
Salmonellosis is highly contagious and it is important that all villagers participate in the prevention
and control programs. Avoid contamination from outside sources by strict quarantine practices.
Burning of dead, infected birds is important. The following drugs can be used to control the
disease:
Furazolidone at the concentration of 0.04% in feed for 0 - 14 days.
Various antibiotics in feed for several days.
4. Coccidiosis
This disease is caused by an internal parasite (coccidia) in the intestine and can cause death,
particularly in chicks. Often the symptoms are thin blood-streaked faeces (but some type of
coccidia cause no blood in the faeces) and weight loss by the chickens. The disease can
spread by contaminated food, water or litter. Coccidia multiply in warm, dark and humid
places, in damp litter around the water-drinker, or in the rainy season if the chicken house is
on the ground.
All birds will eventually come in
contact with coccidia. The point is
to keep the number of coccidia
very low. Then the chickens will
acquire some immunity. To prevent
coccidiosis, keep the chickens
away from their faeces, make a
chicken house on stilts with a slatted
floor.
The following general treatment in the middle of the rainy season may be of use:
There are many coccidiostats available such as "Amprolium" or "Monensin".
Sulfadimidine with water (0.1%): tablet of 500 mg in half litre water (not for layers).
Tetracycline with some feed (0.02%): 200 mg per kg of feed.
Clean and disinfect the chicken-pen and its surrounding with 2% ammonia.
95
5. Fowl Pox
6. Internal parasites
There are many internal parasites,
like roundworms and tapeworms.
Internal parasites live in the chicken
and feed on the nutrients contained
in the digestive tract. These
parasites rarely kill the animals, but
they weaken them. Infected
animals do not perform well, are
more sensitive to diseases and an
easier prey for carnivores.
Good hygiene, housing and absence of contact with faeces can decrease the infestation.
Regular treatment; twice a year or more often, increases egg production and the chicken
will grow faster. Treat with Piperazine or Benzimidazoles.
Fowl Pox causes skin lesions on the bare skin of the
head, neck, legs and feet. Chickens and turkeys are
most susceptible. Insects, such as mosquitoes, transmit
the disease. The disease spreads slowly and outbreaks
may last many weeks. Mortality is low if the disease is
uncomplicated.
Vaccination can prevent this disease and is carried out
at the same time as Newcastle Disease vaccination.
Pullets should be vaccinated well before production
begins. There is no satisfactory treatment for Fowl
Pox. In an outbreak of this disease you can vaccinate
the chickens as the disease spreads slowly.
96
Traditional medicine
Sometimes there is local knowledge
about treatments of internal parasites,
like using papaya, betel-nut and chilies.
7. External parasites
External parasites live on the skin of the chicken and often suck blood, causing a drop in
production and sometimes even killing young birds.
Ticks. They suck blood and also
carry diseases. They are normally
found in hot dry areas and spend
part of their life cycle in cracks of
walls, thatched roofs and wooden
equipment.
Red mite (red spider). They feed
at night and may not be noticed nor
found on the chicken during the
day. They can survive for a very
long time in the cracks and corners
of the chicken house. They may
transmit diseases, such as Fowl
Cholera.
Examples of treatments
In January with Piperazine in drinking water (0.2%): 2 cc per one litre water.
In June-July with Levamisole in feed: 25 mg per one kg feed.
Ticks
Mite Lice
Fleas
97
Neguvon and Asuntol are readily available in many shops. Tar products (like carboleum) or
petrol mixed with old oil can be painted on the wooden parts of the pen (like on the slatted
floor and walls) 14 days before a new batch of chickens arrives. Nicotine or other herbal
remedies may also be used.
Lice: Usually around the rectum and
under the wings. They cause skin
irritation (itching) and ruffled feathers.
Scaly leg mites: Most often living
on the shanks and feet. The affected
skin becomes thickened and scaly.
Treat ment: brush the shank and feet
vigorously and dip the legs in old
engine oil or use specific treatment.
Fleas: Reddish brown and usually
found in laying nests. Often tightly
attached in clusters to the skin of the
head.
Fleas in comb
Scaly leg mites
Fleas in wattle
98
NOTES
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ANNEXES
99
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ANNEXES
Annex 1: Vaccination schedules for poultry
The following vaccination schedules are recommended under Lao conditions.
1. Vaccination program for parent stocks:
D-1: Marek - Live Vaccine - Subcutaneous
Newcastle - Heat Resistant Vaccine - Eye drop
D-10: Infectious Bronchitis - Live Vaccine - Eye drop
D-18: Gumboro - Live Vaccine - Drinking water
D-28: Newcastle - Heat Resistant Vaccine - Eye drop
D-42: Fowl Pox - Live Vaccine - Wing web
Infectious Bronchitis - Live Vaccine - Eye drop
D-56: Newcastle - Heat Resistant vaccine - Eye drop
D-90: Fowl Cholera - Inactivated Vaccine - Subcutaneous
D-128: Infectious Bronchitis + Gumboro
+ Newcastle - Inactivated Vaccine - Intra Muscular
Every 3 M: Fowl Cholera - Inactivated Vaccine - Subcutaneous
2. Vaccination program for chicks for distribution to farmers:
D-1: Marek - Live vaccine - Subcutaneous
Newcastle - Heat Resistant Vaccine - Eye drop
D-10: Fowl Pox - Live vaccine - Wing web
Infectious Bronchitis - Live Vaccine - Eye drop
D-18: Gumboro - Live Vaccine - Drinking water
Note: Chicks should not be distributed before 21 days old.
3. Vaccination program in villages where chicks have been distributed:
Based on a 3-monthly visit by a Village Veterinary Worker.
Mass vaccination against:
Newcastle Disease - Heat Resistant Vaccine - Eye drop
Fowl Cholera - Inactivated Vaccine - Subcutaneous
Note: Subcutaneous injection should only be administered by properly trained staff.
100
Annex 2: The anatomy of the chicken
A. The different organs:
Position of the organs in the body Skeleton
1. Trachea
2. Lung (two)
3. Heart
4. Esophagus
5. Crop
6. Proventriculus
7. Gizzard
8. Spleen
9. Liver
10. Small intestines
11. Large intestines
12. Cecum (two)
13. Kidney (two)
14. Cloaca or vent
1
2 2
3
5
6
7
8
9
13 13
12 12
14
10
11
4
ANNEXES
101
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The passage of the egg through the cloaca (or vent).
B. The reproductive organ of the hen:
1. Ovary
2. Egg funnel
3. Oviduct
4. Egg in development
5. Cloaca or vent
6. Kidney
7. Ureter
8. Large intestines
1
6
7
8
2
5
3
4
102
NOTES
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/ LAO-EU Livestock Project :I1\3]9 31u-3J
103
Se le c tion a nd b re e d s
1 2
4 3
5 6
7 8
1. uLomL uO< nnLOOtOenuLomL
1n uD OnO m O 1n uD OnOs S nu
1n O 1n tmO e
1n nn tu u (u m 2) 1n 1s m L lu uoL
1n O OnO m O 1n O OnO s S nu
Kabia chicken (BT2)
Fighting cock
Good local hen Bad local hen
Yellow Chicken
Bovan layer chicken
Bad local cock Good local cock
I1\ d od I1\ 3 ]I +\ q \ \. o / Improved Rural Poultry Production
104
Chic ke n pe ns
1 2
4 3
5 6
7 8
2. OenmO On1n
Oen 1n tm etO nnL O n Oen 1n tm ennL O n
Oen 1n tm me Un U e n L 1n L eu
O en1n m D OeL s u Oen, u eLO _ 1n L eu , tO L g L
O n 1n q m L O L O n 1n u n m L
Pen above fish pond
Cage with perches
Pen, nursery, run
Protection of chicks
Commercial poultry house
Pen with slatted floor Pen on the ground
Semi-comm. poultry house
105
tn e 1n O ou O n O n_ tn e 1n O ou Uon
m en mnL tm D Sn en mnLuO< SnLh
3. SnenmnL, SnLh
Fe e de rs a nd drinke rs
1 2
4 3
3 4
1n nh O n L en mnL 1n nh O n L Lh Chickens eating Chickens drinking
Feeding vegetables Feeding termites
Supplement feeding Feeder and drinker
Sma ll sc a le fe e d ing p ra c tic e s
2 1
u Oan O SnenmnLO L O O Grinding maize Tyre feeder
4. nnLmenmnLaOuuuU<qnqL
106
Nutrition: e ne rg y a nd p rote in
u elU S O L: un Lp o tg e lU S O L: p o s_o
m< O nL: tD O an O lU S O L: s n< tO eL, Uon
1 2
4 3
5 6
7 8
Protein: soya seed Protein: mung bean
Energy: maize grains Protein: worms, termites
5. enmnL: shmonmm m<OnL uO< lUSOL
lU S O L: u n< p L m oenmnL1n
m<OnL: Sh m< O nL:ts nU_L
Protein: leucaena Commercial feeds
Energy: rice bran Energy: broken rice
107
La rg e sc a le
fe e d ing p ra c tic e s
tm D o O< D L, uS mnO s L OeL a O m nu nnL U< a D
1 2
4 3
5 6
7 8
Adding vitamins, minerals Final feed mixture
6. nnLmenmnLuuueOanm<nh
U< a D n u en mnL m L u nL tn e en mnL m U< a D
en mnL 1n tL e en mnL 1n 1s Commercial broiler feed Commercial layer feed
Mixing with local feeds Feeding home-made ration
q a oL U< neu tO e u O , tO e U< a D en mnL Weighing feed components Grinder & mixer
108
Comme rc ia l la ye r fa rm
Pa re nt stoc k for hig h
produc ing bre e ds
1 2
4 3
2
3 4
1
7. muDmLahOuO<OOuLomLmDOLL<mnua
uLo m L 1n tg e 1n O 1lO O 1n uD 7 lO Yellow Chicken 1 Cock for 7 hens
8. mnD1n1s tme nnLOn
L O en m D a Se m L 1n 1lO 1s 5 m ou/en m O
1n 1s L Oen (n ) Lh, enmnL uO< 1s Layers in cages Water, feed and eggs
Chickens on deep litter One layer: 5 eggs/week
1n m LO n U< a D 1n m LO n U< a D Commercial hybrid Commercial hybrid
109
D m o aou nD (a a L a O a) m o s S nu (L eu, a s O )
D S m< onLm O (m u, u O u L) DSm<onLmuO (Leu,um)
Se le c tion of g ood la ye rs
1 2
4 3
9. nnLOOtOen1n1smO
nnL s u m p n O e D m_ m O (mu , e e L L D) Correct handling Good crop (big, soft)
Good head (bright color) Bad head (small, pale)
5 6
7 8 Good cloaca (big, elastic) Bad cloaca (small, dry)
D O m e m O (n on, L D) O m e u O (un,us) Good abdomen (wide, soft) Bad abdomen (thin, hard)
110
UeOOn, O (LoOntqL) mL (LoOntqL)
Va c c ina tion te c hnique s
1 2
4 3
5 6
7
10. tOnLnnnLanUnUenL
U<aDLhnL(nhulS) Drinking water (Gumboro)
n nD q L te n (L o On tq L- te D) nnDqLsn (LoOntqL-teD)
a n n e g u m O (e< m on a O U n) a n n e g u m U n (e< m on a O U n) SC neck (FC) SC wing (FC)
IM breast (NC-M) IM leg (NC-M)
Eye, nose drop (NC, IB) Spraying (NC, IB)
8 a n n e g u m (Dn tS n)
SC (Marek)
111
Un q< L O O n_ m Un L Lh O D
Poultry dise a se s a nd
tre a tme nts
1 2
4 3
5 6
7 8
11. m<unO se1n uO< nnLULUo
tn u O o U n tO eO noO nn g nnL Onu
mnn a n a O U n n L m m p n Un tu e Onu
m< unO L o On tq L m< unO e< m on a O U n Newcastle Disease Fowl Cholera
Blood sampling Post-mortem
Fowl Pox Eating poisoned rat
Different medicines Medicine in drinking water
112
La rg e sc a le ha tc he ry
13. nnLmn1ss<mnOmu
Sma ll sc a le ha tc he ry
1 2
4 3
1 2
3 4
12. nnLmn1ss<mnOLeu
O m n 1s s< mnOL eu u eL e u 1n L eu
1n - m n 1s O O tO en, mh OonD a< enO Laying eggs Selecting & cleaning
Small incubator Small brooding ring
pnO tun< 1n L eu u eL e u 1n L eu s< mnO mu Hatching tray Brooding ring
tO en 1s m D s< mnO m O O m n 1s s< mnOmu Well sized eggs Large incubator
113
ae 1s D tq e O O a u1n L eu
O O tO en tmO OnD a se s L 1n tmO O uO< tmO uD
Se xing, c a ndling a nd
de be a king
1 2
4 3
14. nnLOOtOentmO, nnLqe1s uO< OOau
s L tu e O D unono n (uD ) s L tu e O D unono n (uD )
upo s L uno tm n n L (O ) upo s L tu e O D a L n on (O ) Rows same length (male) Bottom shorter (male)
Bottom longer (female) Bottom very long (female)
Candling fertilized eggs Debeaking chicks
5 6
7 8
Sexing on color Male & female chicks
114
U n e uS D m a L U n U n e u S D O< O u u nL Training at Center Training at village
Inte g ra te d fa rming
O the r p oultry p ic ture s
1 2
4 3
15. nnLsOmnDuuuU<aDU<anL
16. SumnueL_se1n
U< a D U< anL 1n uO< Un U< a D U< anL 1n uO< Un
U L Oen tm e U u U O L Lh q U L Oen tm e U n O n
Poultry and fish Poultry and fish
3 4
1 2
Manure to fertilize soil Manure for vegetables
s L a 1U O< gnO m O< gnO a O Transport to market Fresh market
115
- -NOTES
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Produced by:
EUROPEAN UNION - LAO PDR LIVESTOCK PROJECT
Strengthening of Livestock Services and Extension Activities (ALA/96/19)
Department of Livestock and Fisheries
P.O. Box 8330, Vientiane, Lao PDR
Supported by the European Union

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