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One of the most satisfying sewing projects is simply mending afavorite piece of clothing. And repairing jeans can be especiallyenjoyable because denim so easily adapts to all kinds of differentpatching techniques, sewing abilities and needs.
When mending jeans it’s key
to choose the technique thatexpresses and is in harmony with the individuality and style of
your
particular jeans.
You want your handwork not only to endure morehard wear, but also maintain and highlight the stylish denim lookthat you love. Mending is the new glam look of fashion jeans
, it’s
hip, and industrious.Here is one denim patching technique, cunningly named,
cat and mouse
, due to the subtle way the mending camouflages and blendswith the original holes and rips.by nancy minsky
author of “
denim revolution
”
mending and patching jeanswith designer style
cat and mouse
a technique to cunningly patch jeans
the jean dilemma
You have a pair of very cool jeans that you love and fit well, but suddenly they are disintegrating into anannoying mess of holes and rips. You want to maintain the fashionably distressed look of the jeans butthey desperately need mending.
the cure
Mend them by sensitively integrating your stitches and handwork with the worn denim texture. Tomake them durable and chic you will fuse and patch on the inside and then re-enforce with stitching inthe worn areas, blending your handwork harmoniously with the intrinsically cool, naturally worn look.If you have some general sewing experience then you can easily mend your jeans with this technique.
the sewing materials
medium weight, white iron-on fusing (enough to generously fit the area you are patching)
cotton, medium weight fabric for the inside patch (same amount as fusing)
note: This is a decorative feature seenonly on the inside. Choose a fabric that reflects the style of the wearer and the jeans. The plaid used in the photos is agood unisex solution, but maybe you aremending pants for a young girl, where a printed floral would delight the wearer,or a soft corduroy.
cotton thread that matches your jeans
note: choose a shade that blends withthe worn area you will be mending. Jeans vary broadly in colors and shades,and well matched thread is important for the look.
contrasting thread color for basting
general sewing materials including:scissors, straight pins, hand sewingneedle, sewing machine with a
“denim sewing needle”, iron, ironing
board, ruler or tape measure, seamripper.
the sewing steps
measure and cut patches:
Measure the area you want to patch, and cut the fusing to sizeaccordingly.
note: The patched area in the example in the photos is the width of the front leg, from the side seam tothe crotch seam
. When jeans are quite worn like these it’s more efficient to patch the entire area, to
avoid having to frequently make additional patches.
Pin the fusing on the plaid cotton (or your novelty cotton fabric.) Cut
½” larger all around
the perimeter.(And if you have pinking shears then use them.)Press well the area you will patch, also smoothing neatly in place and pressing any loose denim threads.Turn your jeans inside out and press again the area you will be patching, careful to smooth flat andneatly any loose denim threads.
apply the fusing and patch:
Workingon the inside of your jeans, lay the fusing,glue facing the denim, on the area you will bepatching. Steam and press very well so thatthe fusing is permanently glued and securedin place. Any loose denim threads will also befused, neatly in place. (photo on left)Press the plaid patch. Pin it on top of thefusing so the fusing is completely hiddenbehind the plaid patch.
Baste all around, ¼”
from the edge. Remove pins. (bottom photo)
note: the plaid patch will protect the fusing from rubbing loose from the jeans and also bea more attractive material to the eye than the fusing.
Turn the jeans right side out.
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