:

4
4
4
6
7
7
7
8
9

:
: :

" "
" "
" "

11
11
11
11
11
11
16
17
17
18
18

19
19
11
11
11
11
11
14
12
17
18
1

11
11
11
11
12
12
17
17
18
19
41

41
41
41
41

42

42

42

46

46

46

47

48

48

48

49

49

49

49

49

21

21

21

21

21

21

21

21

21

21

24
-
24

24

24

24
" "
22

26
1







( )

27
28
61
61
61
66
68
69
69
69
69
71


-1 : .
.C10-C20

(
)
.
(
) :
:
R-COOH + NaOH R-COONa + H2O
:

.
-2 : :
Hydrophylic
Hydrophobic .

:


:/ :

/ /

-3 :
:
.1
.2
.3
4

 .4 pH
.5
.6
.7 :
.8
.9
.
-1-3 : R > C18
.
R < C12
.
-2-3 :

.
-3-3 :
:


( ) .
-4-3 :
CO2

.

CO2
.
pH~ 9
.
-5-3 :


( )
.
-6-3 :

.
-7-3 :

:

%33-18
- :

.
- :
.

.
2

 - : :

...
.
-8-3 :


.
-9-3 :
.
-4 :
:
:
( 83 )


.
: 12

10-5

.



48
.





.
( )

:

 -5 : :

-1 :
.
-2 : .
-3 :
.
.
-4 :
.
-5 : .
-6 : .
-7 : .

-1 :Bactrie
-1-1 : .
-2-1 : :
:Cocci . :Bacilles . - :Spirochts .

-3-1 :
: DNA .
: RNA . : .
.
-4-1 :
: . : . : . : .
: . : . : . -5-1 :
. :
7

 :1 . :2 .
:3 -SH .

... . :
: %2

.
: .
() : .
: 63.
: :
.
:
.
+

: H & OH
:
.
: :
: . : . : . :
.
: %43
.
:
. .
-2 :
-1-2 : :
:
.
:
. .
-2-2 :
-1-2-2 :

1.38
3.5
5
13

-2-2-2 :
1.38
2
5
13

-3-2-2 :
.
-4-2-2 :
8




453
25
233 15
13
45
13

133 233 325

.
-4-2-2 :
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1
93

%7,5


()13


% 2 ( )

%6,3

.
%1 %3.5

%1

%13


%23

%13 %3

% 3.5

%3.5 %13 .

%1

%13
-

Oilatum Soap
Panoxyl Bar
ZNP Bar
Acne Acid
Soap
Tar
Polytar Soap
Sulphur Soap
Septa
Sastid Soap
Salicylic Acid
Soap
Narjess
Savon
Glycerine

.

:
:
R-COOH + NaOH R-COONa + H2O
:

%13.


-1 :
( )

... .
-2 : :
- - -
-1-2 :
:
R-COO Na +

( )

C17H33COOCHCH2SO3Na
CH3-(CH2)16-CH2-OSO3Na
R-COO-CH2-CH2-SO3- Na +

( -)

R-O-(C2H4O)-PO3Na2 : R = Octyl or nonyl phenol or fatty

alcohol

-2-2 :

.

:

R4N-Cl
R3N
R2=NH
R-NH2
NH3

C8-C10

( R-NH3 )Cl or R-NH2.HCl:

:

: R : a, b, c
: X

11


:
R-NH3-Cl + NaOH R-NH2 + Na Cl + H2O

.
-3-2 :

:
-CH=CH-, SO=NH, -CO-NH-, -COO-, -O-

:



R-O-(C2H4O)nOH


CH3-S-C2H4-(C2H4O)nH

R-CO-(C2H4O)nH

R-CO-NH-(C2H4O)nH

.
( )

:

n 53
.
:

-COO Na+
-OSO3- Na +

- NH2.HCl
= NH.HCl

N.HCl
N +Cl
-O -OH
-COO-

-OSO2- Na +
-OPO3- (Na)2 +

-CONH-SO2NH-CH=CH-

11

 -4-2 :

:

Acidic

Cationic

Isoelectric range :

Non-ionic

Alkaline

Anionic

-3 :


R-SO2O- .

.

.
-1-3 : :
- .
- .
- :
.Tetramer
- : Flet
" - ":
( )334 (
275-185) ( )638 ( )27.8 .
5-4 45
.



.C12-C14 :

-2-3 : :
() .

83
:

11

 SO3

SO3
:
133-83.



.


.
- :

.
- () : SO3
H2SO4-SO3 H2S2O7 SO3

SO3
53-45
:
.
- : SO3
SO3
.
-3-2-3 : :
-4 :
%25
: Builder Bleaching
.
-1-4 :Na2Si2O3. 5H2O ( )
.
-2-4 :
:

Fe 3+ & Ca 2+
OH - & CO32
:
.1 .
11

 .2 .
.3 .
.4 .
.5 .
.6 .

:

EDTA

NTA

EDTA

-2 ( -N ) :

HEDTA
DTPA

-N-N ( -2 )

DHEG

DPTA

( - )

ATMP

-1 -11-

HEDP

( )

EDTMP

( )

DTMP

.
: :
:( HPO3 )n HPO3
Na2O P2O4 1/1.5 Na6P4O13
) (Galgon Na2O P2O5 1/1

.

:Na2H2P2O7 & Na4P2O7

pH:10.2 pH:12.1
:
14

 : :
(NaPO3)x or Na5P3O10 :
2 Na2HPO4 + NaH2PO4 Na5P3O10 + 2 H2O :
-

-3-4 :
( ) CMC

.

.





.
-4-4 :
-SO2NH2 -CONH2 .
-5-4 : ()
.
.

12



...
:
)15( : " " ( )1.853 "
123 :.
-1 123 53
-2 ( )15 .
-3 ( )1.853 .

: 433-333 " "

( ) .
:
:
( )2 : .
( )2 :
( )333 : .
( )333 : " "
( )13 " " : .
:
123.
: .
)13( : )1.253( - )13( - -
123 :.
-1 123 53
-2 ( )13 .
-3 ( )1.253 .
-4 ( )13 .

16


-1 : 48 :
: .
: .
: .
pH: 6.5-7.5
. pH~ 10

.pH: 5.5-6.5

-2 :
-1-2 :

)Sodium laureth sulfate, or sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES
CH3(CH2)10CH2(OCH2CH2)OSO3Na

%73 %33.
%23-15
%23-15
. %33-23
.
24
.


.
-2-2 :KD
.%2-3
-3-2 :Pearling agent ( )
.%3-3
Ethylene Glycol Distearate: CH3(CH2)16COOCH2CH2OOC(CH2)16CH3

-4-2 : %2-1

%5-2 .
-5-2 :Citric acid .
( )
.
-6-2 :

Propyl paraben: Propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate
.%3.5
).(0.1%
-7-2 : Allantoin ).(0-0.1%
-8-2 : %3-1 .
-9-2 : %3-1 .
-13-2 : %3.3331
. :
:E .17

 :B6 . -11-2 : NaCl %1

.
%3.3-3.2
.
-12-2 :
-3 : ( )14-
( )

.
14-

375
12
131.5 3.45 1.336
-

( 33) 83 ( 15 ) . ( 1.5) " : " ( 1.3) " : ". ( 1) " ". (1.5) . ( 3-1). ( 133-53) . ( )123-133 .-

18


:
:
:


-1 :
... .

.

.


. :
.1 .
.2
.
-2 : :

.


.

.
19


.



.D
:
- :Eccrine glands
.
- :Pocrine glands " "
.

- -
.
%99-98
.
pH:3.8-5.6
pH

-
- .

.
-3 :
.


-
- .

/ /

" " .



.
11

.
:
.

.
-4 :
.
" "

.
( ) ( )
.
.

:
-1-4 " " : .

: . :

:

-2-4 " " :

: :

"
" .
-3-4 " " :
:
- Spans Sorbital
.
11

 - : T. Weens
.
- Myrj
.
- : Brij .

" ".



" .
" HLB:Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
: .

HLB
HLB
.
HLB
HLB HLB :
HLB 15:15
HLB 23:5
HLB 35
H.L.B 7 = 5 35
HLB

HLB
HLB
HLB .
HLB
.HLB
HLB
.
HLB
:
) HLB = 20 ( 1- S / A
-S : -A
HLB
HLB HLB

11

 HLB HLB
:
HLB

HLB .17-13
HLB
" "
HLB .
:HLB

. HLB

HLB

.
: :
HLB
HLB
13
53
5
12
5
25

HLB " 42 ".

HLB

HLB

25 42 = 62% 10 = 6.2
5 42 = 12% 10 = 1.2
12 42 = 27% 10 = 2.7
6.2 + 1.2 + 2.7 = 10.1

HLB = 10.1 HLB 10.1

:
HLB=15
HLB = 4.7 %63-43 HLB:
40 100 4.7 = 1.8
60 100 15 = 9.0
10.8 HLB

HLB 10.8 HLB

:
2

3
5

HLB

.
HLB HLB



HLB 16 HLB
HLB
.
11

 HLB " " 20 16.7 HLB

" " 80 .15
5-6 100
. .
" 20 " 80
" ." Brij

.Groda LTD
Bushboake Auen

.

40-60%
70-80%
.
No: 2389


1000

400
40

.

.

-4-4 : Milk & Lotions
.
.
:

.


HLB .
:
.
.
" ".
Make-up .
-1-4-4 : Make-up

" " .
14




.
:
" " No. 2390
800
" "
150
" "
50

1000

0.3-0.5%

0.05

: .
-2-4-4 :Foundation creams
Make-up

.

.


.



56
.16-20%
25%
.
:
10 NaOH = 14 KOH

14 13
:
:C17H35COOH " 284 :
" 273
233 %28.
56 :
011 65
482
: :
C17H35COOH + KOH C17H35COOK + H2O
56 %83
:
( 02 = )482081( / )0116565
12

80

81

90

98

98

32 NH3, 66 NH4OH

77

18

5

KOH
K2CO3
NaOH
Na2CO3. 10 H2O
Na2B4O7. 10 H2O
NH4OH
N(C2H4OH)3
NH(C2H4OH)2
)NH2(C2H4OH

56
138
40
286
382
35

:
14
16
8
28
37
10

Aprox
132

20

-1-2-4-4 : CO2


CO2

.

.
.

.
.
%13

.

.
:

85-75 .


85-75 13

.

.
35-33
:
.
- .
-
.
-2-2-4-4 " " : " "
.
:

.
16


.
H. G. Tribley W.A. Poucher
24
:
No. 2410

1000 800
50
200

%5-1


.

.

.
:
.

-3-2-4 : .
-3-4-4 :

.

Make up
.Make up



.

17


-1
-1-1 :1


%4

%2

%3.5

%2

%4
%3

%3

%6

%4

%54

%6

%4

%3.5

%3.25

%3.1

: 75
75 .
35.
.

35
.
-2-1 :2



%2
%1

%5

%13

%3

%13.5
%65

%3

%3.5

%3.3

%3.5

: 75
75.

.
-2 :



%2
%5

%3.5 %89.3

%1.5 %3.5

%3.3
%1.2

18

 : 75
.
33
.
-3 :



%12
%4

%3 %67.23

%15
%15

%3.15

%3.32

:
75 .
75

35
.
-4 :



%1
%33

%33
%2
%3.5
%5

%12

%11

%5

%5

: 75
.
35 .
-5 :



%5 %5

%78
%13

%3.5
%2

: 75
75.

75.
.
35 .

19



-1 :

.
-2 : :

Hair follicle

Papilla Epithelial matrix cells

.

Hair root
Hair bulb
.

.Arrector pili muscle
-3 : :
.

11

 -1-3 :Hair medulla

.
-2-3 :Hair cortex

.



.

.

.

-3-3 :

.
-4-3 : :
.



.


.
-5-3 :
.
.
-6-3 :
.

-7-3 :

...



.
Melanin


" "
.

11

 Keratization

.



.
Fibrous proteins : Fibrin
Collagen Elastin Silk protein Polypeptide
.chaines
Amino acid :

Dipeptide
Peptide linkage :

Polypeptide chaines
Hydrogen
bound .CO & -NH
CO & -NH
:

.
AB
:

Cystine



AB :

-8-3 :

11

 " "
.


%33 %63 %133




.
" "
:

- : .
- : .

%33 %88 %5
1918-14

.
1923



() .




.

( : )

.
-4 :

1914
%17.

CH2-S-S-CH2 .

-S-S-
.

Di-sulphid

.
11

:


" ".

.


.

.


" ".

pH:
HS-CH2-COOH + NH4OH HS-CH2-COONH4 + H2O



14



.

.
:
-1 %6-5 :

.
-2 %7-6 :
.%8.5-8
-3 %13
.
pH
pH:9.5-9.7 pH: 9-9.2
.
pH > 9.7


pH < 9.5

pH

1.4 pH: 9.7
.

.
-5 : :
- .
- .
- .
%1
.

.



" " %1

.
-6 :

12


.


()

33-13

13-5

13-5 .

%13
pH
.

.


.

.

.


15-13


.
KBr
" "

16


NaH2PO4. H2O :
533 533 + = 1333
13 " ".

-7 :

.


:
.1 .
.2
.
.
.3

.4
.



( ) C10-C18



.

C12 C14
C17 C17


C8-C10 C12-C14
.









.


.
-1-7 :

17














%4 .
-2-7 :

" "
" "

:

.

"

"

:
- .
- .
- .
- .
- .




.
18


.




.

-3-7 :
.1 .
.2 .
.3
.
.4 .
.5 .

19


-1 " ":

%2.5

%3.25

%3.1

%23

%77
% 3.5-3.3
%3.2

:

.
-2 :


%15

%3.5

%2

%82.5
%3.9-3.3
%3.15

:
.

.
-3 :

%43

%3.5-3.3

%63

: .
.
1 3 /
.
.
-4 :

%5

%83

%15

:
.
-5 :


%53

%3.1

%3.1

%3.35

%75-49
%3.5-3.3
%1.5

:
"
" .
41


Sunburn prepations
-1 :
:

- - - - -
:

:
Melanin

D .





.

.

.


.
41



333-2933 2967
:

3233-3333.
D2 3333

.D
-2 :
3333-2933 . :
.1 .
.2 :
.
.

.3 :
.
:
.1 3333-2933.
.2 .
.3 .
.4 .
.5 .
:

.

3333-2967
.

%3.2 %8
.


%13-8
%2 %8-6 .
%3.5
.

.%5
41


( )


" " .
-3 :
" "
.
" "

.

Opaque
: .

-1 :



%1 %84.4
%1.5-3.3
%2

%13
%3.32

%2
%3.32

%3.32

%3.12

%3.32

:
. . . . -2 :



%13 %65

%3.5-3.3
%5

%2.5
%2.5
%2.5

%7.5
%5


%3.15

%3.32

:
75.

41

 75 . " 75 " .
. -3 :



%73
%5
%2
%13
%4 %5
%1
%2

%5

%3.15

%3.32

: 73 75
33.
:
73.
73 .
.
1- Perfums, Cosmetics & Soaps

44

Shampoos
-1 :
. Harlow
& Godira & Samson .



.
.
.
.

Mc Cutchean's .
-2 :

.

.
.

.

.

.
.


. /
.
.
/



.

.
-3 :

: .
:

42

 -1-3 :Foam builders

Fatty acid
alkanol amides:
Lauryl diethanol amide

Lauryl monoethanol amide

Monoethanol amide coconut monoethanol amide
:
%13 ""

15 33
25
53
: 123 %37
155
163
193
53
75
133

.
-2-3 :Conditionding agents
Light & Flighty


Lanolin
Isopropyl Myristate Butyl Palmitale Glyserol
Propylene Glycol Amine Oxides
Silicones Laureyl & Cocoyl
Saroocosines .

. .

:
Sulfated cocomonoglyceride ammonium salt
Emcol E-607
637 -
Water

Perfume

%54.1
%2
%43.9

-3-3 :Opacifying agents

Stearye & Setyl alcoholes Beheni acid: C22
Glycol mono & distearates Glyceryl
& propylene glycol stearates Palmitates
.Gelation or Separation
Resin
polymers Polystyrene Amides Ethanol amides

:

46

23 22 21
Water
q.s.
45.75%
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
20.55%
Lanolin
1.470
Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate
80%
Perfume
0.295
q.s.
q.s.
Sodium chloride
0.890
Sodium benzoate
0.235
Stearic acid
6.580
Potassium hydroxide, 34.2%
4.035
Lauric-myristic diethanolamide
1.500
Monomethylol dimethyl hydantion 0.100
CE SF-1066 silicone fluid
3.00
Ammonium lauryl sulfate
49.50
Methocel 60 HG
1.75
Color
q.s.
Lauric diethanolamide
16
Propylene glycol
4
-

13 11
33%
2
1
1.0%
64
3.8.0
20.5
9.0
1.0
0.5

Ultrawet 60 L
Glyceryl monostearate
Magnisium stearate
Water
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: C10 to C18
Polyvinyl alcohol, 10%
Methyl cellulose 50 cps
Glyceryl monolaurate
Lanolin
Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate C10 to C14
Cetyl alcohol
Perfume
Ethanolamide of refined coconut fatty acids
Ethylene glycol mono stearate
Hydroxyacetic acid
Triethanolamine
Behenic acid
Methyl -hydroxybenzoate
Sodium salt of sulfated monoglyceride of hydrogenated
coconut oil fatty acid

12

4%
50

13 14

q.s. 100% 69.25%

40.0
-

1.0

0.50

0.5
5.0
1.5
to pH 7.4

0.40

1.20
3.50
0.15

25.00

2
1
35
2

:Clarifying agents -4-3

) (

Terpineol Isoprpyl alcohol :
Propylene glycol Botyl alcohol Diethylene glycol
.Diethyl carbitol
EDTA Sequistring agent
Citric
or Tartaric acids
.

47

 Tetra sodium pyro phosphate

Tripoly sodium phosphate Lime soap dispersing
.Buffering action Sodium
xylene sulfonate Sodium naphtaline sulfonate
:134

4 3 2 1
Coconut oil
14.0% 18.0%
Olive oil
3.0
Castor oil
3.0
4.0
Potassium hydroxide, 85%
4.7
5.3
Glycerol
2.0
4.0
5%
3.5
Ethyl alcohol
4.0
10
Perfume
1.0
0.5
Water
0.3
0.2
q.s.
14.0%
Borax
68.0
68.0
40
Coconut soap potassium salt
0.5
Olive oil soft soap
35
Sulfated castor oil, 75%
10
39.5
Sulfated olive oil, 75%
19.5
Mineral oil, Light
3.0

-5-3 :Sequistring agents :Lime soap

-1 .
-2 .
53-25 .
Citric acid Versene 100
( Nullapon )EDTA %1

37

Tweens
Tetra sodium pyro phosphate
Tripoly sodium phosphate
.
-6-3 :Antidandruff agents

Antimicrobial
/
. Active ingredient

Oil-water
.
: Sulfur Salicylic acid
Hexachlorophene Resorcinol .Tar :
Selenium sulfide Zinc pyrithione
Iodine-containing hydroxyl quinolines .
-7-3 :Thickening agents
Amides
( Traga canth )

Hydroxyethyle

Loucust
bean
gum

cellulose Methyl cellulose Carboxymethyl cellulose

48

 Carbopol Carboxy vinyl polymer

.


Alginates Poly vinyl alcohol Poly vinyl pyrolidon
.
: Alkylol amides
" super " amides 46 .Glycol or Glycerol stearates

.
.
Polyglycol

.
-8-3 :Presevatives
: Formaldehyde Ethanol
Methyl, Propyl, Butyl hydroxy benzoate Phenyl mercurice acetale
Phenyl mercurice nitrate Alkyl anisoles Alkyl
cresols Chloro salicyl anilides Dehydroacetic acid
salt Monomethylol dimethyl hydantoin 2
. .

.
-9-3 :Other stability additives
Antioxidant
Sunscreens Suspending agents .pH
.
Benzophenone Benzotriazole

Veegum Bentonites .
pH
.
-13-3 :Other cosmetic additives

Tints & Pearles cent pigments : .
Essential oils Extenders Fixatives
: Oxidation
... .

.

.The federal Food, Drug, and cosmetic Act.
-4 :Performance properties
-1-4 : Foam & foam stability
Cleaning action
.
Foam column test Miles - Ross
233 53

49

 Foam generated
.
Colson The conceptofe synthetic
.
Sanders
:
%3.1 23
:

350 p.p.m :
Potassium coconut soap
15
160
15
Sodium lauryl sulfate: Duponol WA paste
31
200
125
Sodium mono glyceride sulfate: Arctic Syntex M
32
205
205
Potassium coconut-protein condensate: Maypon 4C
35
175
155
Sodium alkyl sulfate: Ultrawet K
85
200
225
Alkyl phenol polyglycol ether: Triton X-100
100
125
115
Sulfated castor oil: Monosulph
68
90
20
Sodium sec-alcohol sulfate: Tergitol 4
25
110
90
Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurylate: Tween 20 100
85
80
Lauryl imidazoline: Miranol HM
40
220
120
Sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate: Aerosol OT
100
180
50

Laboratory evaluations

.
Powers-Barnet
.
Rod-Frodell
. . .
( ) ( )
.
- .
.
:

: .
: () : ( 1.5 45) ( 7
3.5) ( 2 8)
( 4 63)
( 1.14 4.2) ( 1.16 01)
.
:
.Chalumeiu
:
: 2 233 23 15
23 23.
: ( 3.8 53) No 6
( 6) ( 12).
( 53)
.

21

 : ( 253)
( 3.5 93) ( 53).
( 73) .

83 53 43 23 :

( 253) .
: ( ) ( 24 )
.

33 .



Syndets et Savons HD
50-80 C
Syndets HD et LD
0.05, 0.2, 0.5% en prod. Comm.
Syndets LD
20-40 C
Savons HD
0.05, 0.2, 0.5, 1.0% en prod. Comm
Ether polyglycoliques 20-40 C (80 CO) Ether polyglycoliques
0.3 % en prod. Comm
Shampooings
20-40 C
Shampooings
0.3 % en prod. Comm
Slurries LD
20-40 C
)Slurries (Fabrication
0.1% TA.
Slurries HD
50-80 C

-2-4 :Detergency and cleaning action

.

Standard soil
Carbon black
Spectrophotometric Radio
active tracer measurements

.
Long Fellow Ester Henkin


%35 .
Power Barnett

:


(pH) %3.25
Sodium alkyl sulfate
8.3
98.5
99.1
93.1
Triethanol amine alkyl sulfate
6.8
94.8
94.5
89.4
Ammonium alkyl sulfate
6.6
97.8
97.5
95.0
Alkyl phenoxy polyethyl alcohol
6.3
98.1
97.5
95.7
Sodium sulfo fatty ester
5.9
97.0
93.4
85.4
Ammonium sulfated monoglyceride
4.9
96.7
94.9
92.3
Protein fatty acid condensate
6.9
90.9
80.5
58.5
Alkyl phenoxy polyethyl sulfate
5.3
95.0
93.4
18.8
Polyglycol: Non ionic
7.4
93.6
79.3
62.3
Polyhydroxy amine fatty acid condensate
7.7
96.6
95.5
11.1

.
Keratin .
21



.
-3-4 :Effect of water hardness

.
-4-4 :Surface tension and wetting (/)
(/)
.
Dwnoy ring tensiometer
( )%3.25-3.1 Clorkson Draves


78/ 2 53-43
/:2

2
: /
%3.35

Coconut soap-sodium salt
24.4
14.5
Duponol WA-sodium lauryl sulfate
25.2
11.6
Aretic syntax M-sodium monoglyceride sulfate
27.6
4.0
Ultrawet K-sodium alkyl sulfonate
26.8
1.2
Mono sulp-sulfated casto oil
38.1
10.4
Triton X-100 alkyl phenol polyglycol ether
29.1
1.6
Tween 20-polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate
35.8
6.6
Igepon THC-sodium oleyl taurate
28.0
7.4
Miranol HM-lauryl imidazoline
24.0
7.0
Aerosol OT-sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate
28.5
5.2

-5-4 :Surfactant content

.
:
.1 .Lauryl sulfate
.2 .Lauryl ether sulfate

.
.

.

.

" :" Cationic

. :
1. Distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
2. Dilauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
3. Disobutylphenoxy ethoxy ethyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloside.
4. Cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide.
5. N-cetyl pyridinium bromide.
21


.
" :" Amphoteric


. :
N-alkyl B-imino dipropionates. & N-alkyl B-amino dipropionates.
57 :
:57

%
Deriphate 160C
6
Triethanol amine salt of deriphat 170 C
3
Triethanol amine lauryl sulfate
6
Ethoxylated lanolin
6
Alkanolamide
4
Water
77

-2 " "2-Alkyl sulstituted imidazoline

: .
:Miranols Amino ethyl ethanol amin Fatty acid () Lauric acid
Sodium chloracetate
.Hydroxethyl carboxy methyl alkyl imidazolinim hydroxide
Quaternary ammonium
:

Miranols CM
Miranols DM Miranols MM Miranols HM

-6-4 :Rinsing
.
:
-1 .
-2 / - .
-3 .
.
-7-4 :Conditioning action

Scalp.
-8-4 :Seftness Resilience

State charge .
-9-4 :Luster
Mills-Thempson
Photometer Polarizin
. Fox - powers

21

-13-4 :Lubbricity
- Tangling



. Knowles & Schwartz .
-11-4 - - :Body-Texture-Set retention

Grooming

preparations

: Slump Toofine
Coarse .Wiry
-12-4 :Trritation & Toxicitg

Skin irritation Dermal
toxicity :Sensitazation
- :Eye irritation

.
Draize
.
- :Oral oiritation %53 Lethal
Dose: LD 50

LD 50
Hulpien & Hopper & Cole ( )5
.
-13-4 :Antedantruff efficacy
Spoor Van Abbe
.
-5 :

-1 " "
-2
-3

Brilliantines: Liquid & Solid.

Alcoholic lotion.
Tow-layer systeme.
24

 -4
-5
-6 /
-7 /
-8
-9

Hail tonics.
Gum-base hair dressings.
Oil-in-water emulsion.
Water-in-oil emulsion.
Gels.
Aerosols.

-1-5 " " :Brilliantines " "

.

.
.

:
" "

1 2
Mineral oil lighet
100 % 75 %
Deodorized kerosene
25
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.

.


.

.
.


:
:
1 2
6%
85 %
49
4..5
q.s.
q.s.
15%

3
Castor oil
80 %
Almond oil

20
Olive oil

Color & Perfume

q.s.
Deodorized kerosene
-

: --
NDGA -- .%3.1-3.31
: -P -m-.
%13 .
:9-6
22

9 8 7 6
Mineral oil
80-99 % 66 %
90 %
80 %
Olive oil
1-2%
Peanut oil
34
Almond oil
20
Sesame oil
10
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

.


. .
:
15
92.5 %

2.5
5.0
q.s.

14 13 12 11 13
Mineral oil
75 %
33 %
60 %
Ethyl mgeustate
25
Castor oil
33
60
Isopropyl myristate
34
20
Ethyl oleate
40
Methyl oleate
25%
Olive oil
75%
Liquid lanoline
20
lanoline
Oleyl alcohol
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

.

.
" "
.
:Solid Brilliantines

:

16
Color & Perfume Mineral oil Stearic acid
q.s.
77%
23%

: 73-63
18-12 .
%13-7
173


. Syneresis
.

:
26

23 19
Mineral oil: Heavy
89 %
85 %
Aluminum stearate
8
Castor oil
3
Aluminum lanolate
7
Palmitic acid
3
Lanolin anhydrous
5
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.

: 153
133-93
.

()
:

23 19
Parafin wax
20 %
15 %
Mineral oil
50
25
Petrolatum
30
60
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.

.

.
-2-5 :Alcoholic lotion

.

.

.
.
.
Aerosol

:

38 37 36 35
Ethyl alcohol
50 %
8 0%
60 %
83 %
Castor oil
50
20
10
15
Glycerol
30
Tincture of benzoin
2
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

. .

27


.
Ucon :

45
46
Ucon LB 1715
20%
Ucon LB 3000
5%
Ethyl alcohol
50
60
Water
26
32
Ethoxylated lanolin
Di isopropyl adipate
3
Ethoxylated oleyl alcohol
4%
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
]Ucon LB 1715: [1-(methoxpropan-2-yloxy)propan-2-ol: C7H16O3
]Ucon LB 3000: [1-(buthoxpropan-2-yloxy)propan-2-ol: C10H22O3

-3-5 :Hair tonics

.
49 :
.
%12-13 %1-3.1

Tincture of Cantherides %5-1 Tincture of Capsium -1

%5 Tincture of Cinchona %13-1 %1-3.1


.

: -p -m- - - O -
- D -O - O - - p -B

.
%1
:

.
.
.

%1 pH:4-7
.

28


Azulene: C10H8 .%3.32-3.31


. .

.

53 49
Jamaica rum
12 %
10 %
Ethyl alcohol
45
50
Oil of bay
2
2
Glycerol
5
Water
36
37.5
Oil of pimento
0.5

: .

52 51
Oil of pimento
0.15 %
0.25 %
Oil of cloves
0.15
Ethyl alcohol
60
65
Tincture of quiliaia
10
Water
99.55
34.59
Ethyl acetate
0.15
Oil of cinnamon leaf
0.05
Quassia extract, Solid
0.10
Hepta aldehyde
0.01

:
.
57-53

.59-58

57 56 55 54 53
Resorcinol
5%
0.8 %
0.3 %
Resorcinol mono acetate
3%
2.5 %
Tincture of copsicum
5
Chloral hydrate
1.5
Spoits of formic acid
20
Pinetar oil
2.7
Ethyl alcohol
85
80
70
93
Castor oil
8
7
B. Naphhal
0.8
Sulfonated castor oil
16.9
Soft soap
0.5
Potassiom sulfate
3
Inater
93.5
Methyl linoleate
2.5
Cinnamein
-2
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

:
.
29

59 58
Tincture of Jaborandi
5%
Tartaric acid
0.5
Ethyl alcohol
5
9%
Triple rose water
82.5
Glycerol
7
Pilocarpine nitrate
0.05
Tincture of Cantharidine
0.95
Water
85
Glyceryl borate
5
Perfume
q.s.
q.s.

:
.
-4-5 :Tow-layer lotions
.

:

72 71 73
Mineral oil
50 %
65 %
50 %
Water
50
32
Ethyl alcohol
35
18
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

.

.

.
:

83 79 78 77 76 75 74 73
Mineral oil
50 %
32 %
80 %
28 %
Castor oil
16
3%
Glycerol
8
10
28
Deodorized kerosene
5
Sesam oil
10
32
Almond oil
40
5
Ethyl alcohol
45
58
20
44
57
Water
47
34
58
90
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

.
-5-5 :Gum-Base hair dressing
.

61


. :

86 85
Sodium alginate
1.25 %
1.5 %
Glycerol
2.5
3
Calcium citrate
0.1
0.3
Water: Distilled
96.15
86.2
Tincture of benzoin
4
Balsam Peru 25 %
5
Preservative
q.s.
q.s.
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.

:
.



.
-2 -2-

.
:PVP,
PVP/PVA
.
-6-5 :Oil in water emul sions

.

.

.

.

.

.
. .

.


.



. Conditioning
.

61



Ethoxylated derivatives
Silicone oils .Polyglycerole Grooming
.


.
Polyvinyl pyrilidone .Carbopol

Carbopol

Hair
dressing:
.1 .
.2 .
.3 .

.
/
.
/
Triethanol amine
stearate 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-prpoanediol
.
/
Oleic acid .
91
:92
/

92 91
Mineral oil
44 %
25 %
Stearic acid
6
Water
48.5
65
Triethanol amine
1.5
Tri ethanol amine stearate
7
Bees wax
3
Color & Perfume
q.s.
q.s.

:91 73

72
61


53-45 .
43 .
:92 73
72
53-45 Colloid mill
Homogenizer .

.
.
91 92 :
/ .
93 Gamovvay %3.2
Glycerol monostearate .
94
.
93 95 Glycerol
Propylene glycol Polyol Humectant

Alkanol amides .

.

95 94 93
Mineral oil
43 %
40 %
5%
Bees wax: Bleached
3
1.5
2
Stearic acid
2.4
3.5
14
Glycerol monostearate
0.2
Triethanol amine
1.2
1.5
1
Lanolin
1
Cetyl oleate
10
Isopropyl myristate
3
Carnauba wax
1
Stearamide
50.2
51.5
59
Sorbitol 70%
5
Color & Perfume & Preservative
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

:93
83-75 45.
94 :95 83-75
.
61

 Stear alcohol
Oleyl .

Triethanol amine lauryl sulfate .



.

:98
95
Cetyl stearyl alcohol 10% sulfated 3 %
Mineral oil
20
Water
77
Perfume & Preservative
q.s.

: " "
75
.


133 131
.Lanolin-enriched hair conditioner

Polyhydric alcohol esters

Glycerol monostearate
.
) (5.e

.

131 133
Cera cmls. Ficans
2%
15 %
Peach kernel oil
15
Beeswax
1
Castor oil
3
Lanolin anhydrous
3
Citrric or Tartaric acid
1
Water
76
81
Perfume & Preservative
q.s.
q.s.

: 75
53-45.
%3
%13
.
p-hydroxy benzoic acid
Glycerol monostearate .

Propylen glycol monostearate

64

 Diglycol stearate and Laurate

.
Diglycol laurate .
Polyethylene glycols

132 138 :

133 132
Mineral oil
30 %
32 %
Tegin
6
10
Water
64
50
Beeswax
3
Castor oil
5
Perfume & Preservative
q.s.
q.s.

: 45
.

132 133
Humectants :

116 115 138 137 136 135 134

Glyceryl monostearate
12 %
9%
13.5 %
12 %
Mineral oil
2
25
8.5
2
8%
37.5 %
10
Lanolin
4
3.5
10
3
20
Cetyl alcohol
1.5
Beeswax
1
1.5
1.5
12
12
Triethanolamin stearate
7
Water
75
59
59.5
68
78.5
35
32
Glycerol
4.5
4.5
3
5
Cholestrol esters
9
Spermaceti
5
Petrolatum
3
6
15
Stearic acid
1
Arlacel 83
3
Arlacel 20
1
Span 60
5
Tween 20
2
Tween 60
5
Borax
0.5
1
Perfume & Preservative
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

/ %53
Polyoxyethylen derivatives
.
115 116
.
: 73
45 .

62

 Polyvinyl carboxylic acid: Carbopol

Stearylamine / .


.

-7-5 :Water in Oil emulsion /
Hair grooming /
.

.

.


/ .
/
.
/ Polyvalent soaps
Beeswax .

Absorption bases Polyglycerol esters
Ethoxyploted alcohol .
/ Cetyl
alcohol Sorbitansqui oleate
.
/
.
Calcium oleate & stearate Lime water
Saccharated lime water

/
.
Beeswax
.



/
.Lime creams

. .
" Sorbitan sesquioleate " 83 /
.%53-43

/ Antagonistic
.
Polyglycerol esters Decaglycerd decaoleate

66

 Ethoxylated fatty alcohol & Ethoxylated lanolin alcohol 3-Madduct

.of oleyl alcohol & 5- Madduct of refined lanolin alcohol

.Lipophilic

143 139
Mineral oil 70
35.50 parts
12 %
Petrolatum, white
5
Decaglycerd decaoleate
3
Decaglycerd decalinoleate
3
Liquid lanolin alcohol
5
Beeswax
2
Madduct(3) of oleyl alcohol
3
Madduct of (5) lanolin alcohol
1
Glycerol
4
Borax
0.5
Veegum HV
0.25
Water
47.75
80
Perfume & Preservative
q.s.
q.s.

:139 73 45
.
:143
.

Ethoxylated lanolin alcohol
Mineral oil
.Defatting of the skin
1:3
141 144 Isopropyl myristate
:
Gels

144 143 142 141

Ethoxylated (20) lanolin alcohol
60 %
Mineral oil
20
14 %
Ethoxylated (15) lanolin alcohol
35 %
30
Ethoxylated (24) cholestrol
15 %
lanolin alcohol
6.5
5
Isopropyl myristate
28.5
25
7
oleyl alcohol
5
Ethoxylated 925) hydrogenated castor oil
15
Propylene glycol
5
Polyethylene glycol 200
5
Water
20
30
35
39
Perfume & color & Preservative
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.
q.s.

: -63
73 .
Polyethoxylated ether of oleyl
alcohol .
67

 Phosphate esters of alove ethers

Alkylol amides Ethoxylated oleyl alcohol
Poly ethylene glycol Olev & :
.Laurie

.

.
3-Hexandil, 2-Ethyl-1 Various
polyhydric alcohols Polyethylene glycols
. .Alkylolamide
-15
%33 Itanethylene oxideadduot or mixture of twoor
.more
L. I. Osipow
137 P. Becher 135 .
.



.

.

.
1.533.333 Centipoise 23
.
-9-5 ( ) :Aerosol hair dressings


.
.

.
Sprays
. 154 156 .

Polawax .
Sprays

156 155 154

Diorylan 325-50: Acrylic copolymer resin
1.6 %
Isopropyl myristate
0.07
Ethyl alcohol
38.28
24.5 parts 28.5 parts
Polyvinyl pyrolidone-vinyl acetate 50%
3
Ethoxylated (65) lanolin
0.5
0.5
Isopropyl lanolate
0.05
1.5
Uoon 50 HB 660
1.5
68

42
28
1
0.1
q.s.

24.5
45.5

24
36

q.s.

q.s.

Propellant 12
Propellant 11
Propellant 114
Di-Panthenol
)Zeleo NK (Fatty alcohol phosphate salt
Perfume

: .
163 162 .
Sprays

162 161 161

PVP K 30
1.5 %
PVP/VA E737
3%
Resyn 28-1310
2%
2-Amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol
0.2
Acetyl tributyl citrate
0.15
Ethoxylated (65) lanolin
0.1
0.1
Ethyl alcohol
25
41.75
44.55
Water: distilled
38.2
30
28
n-Butane
12.5
Isobutane
25
25
Propellant 114
12.5
Propellant 12
10
Perfume
0.15
0.15
0.15

: ( 162 2-Amino-2-methyl-1,3-
) propanediol .
-6 :
-1-6 :Pragrance :
-1 .
-2 .
-3 .

-4
.

.
-2-6 :Color
.
.
-3-6 :Consislency


.

69


1411 1994
()1

%7

%8 %83 :

%3

13
)pH( %1


272 2001

15

%12

( %2.5-1 )

11-8.5
()pH
%2

%2

%13.75 %23 -
P2O5
%25

1111 1993
()3
%55

%15

2.5 %55

%3 %55

377 1991
()3
%15

%76

% 2.5

%8

117 2001
()3

%8
%13

7-5
7.5-5
)pH( %25
%3
%3

3621990




%15-12.5
%6-4

1.2 25
1.18-1.37

%153-125
%63-43

%5
%1
(/) NaOH

15231995
()2
%1.5
%1.5



%4-2

%2-1

11.5-9
11.5-9
)pH( %1
10521992
()2
%35-23

9-6
)(pH
71


4

()

(pH) %13

()2


(pH) %1

-

()2

(pH) %23



()3

()3




()3
( )


)(pH
()5
(pH) %25

()1

%1.5
10521992
%2
%93
233 75 %3.5
133 153 %1
8-7


23/
2/
1141992
%23

11-8.5
%2

1936 2333/8/13 ().... 753 533 253
1161992
%23
8-6

%2
%77
77 1917/2/4
%23
%53
217 1996
%15
%3.3
%3
%63
976 1992


%33
%15
%1.2
%3.5
%3.2
%3.1
13.2
13.2
390 1916
13.5-4.5

1533/
2533/
115 2001
%15
%18
%13
%2

71


)(pH

P2O5

()4



5 45/ )(pH

%2.5-1
11-8.5
%2

13.75
%25


96 1999/1/21 ()...133233533
1011 1992

%15
9-5

71