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the weaver’s

idea book
creative cloth on a rigid-heddle loom

Jane Patrick
contents
1 Everything About Plain Weave
Balanced weaves
Spaced warps
Felted fabrics
Stripes
Plaids
Textured yarns
= projects
Felted Scarf
Rag Threesome
Pulled-warps Scarf

2 Exploring Finger-Controlled Weaves


Picked-up loops
Danish medallions
Brooks bouquet
Leno
Spanish lace
= projects
Linen Placemat
Leno Shrug

3
The Power of the Pick-Up Stick
How to use a pick-up stick for weft floats
How to use a pick-up stick for warp floats
How to use a pick-up stick for weft and warp floats
Pick-up patterns, including drafts
= projects
Tunic
Pinstriped Skirt
Honeycomb Pillow Pair
Purple and Green Funky Felted Pillow
4 Warp- and Weft-Faced Fabrics:
Now You See It, Now You Don’t
weft-faced weaves
Weft-faced color-and-weave
Cut pile, the Ghiordes knot
Picked-up loops pile
Soumak
Krokbragd
Clasped-weft
= project
Summertime Coasters
warp -faced weaves
Warp-emphasis fabrics
Warp-faced bands
Pick-up on warp-faced bands

5 Two-Heddle Weaving:
It’s Easier than You Think
two -heddle basics
How to thread and use two heddles
Two-heddle patterns
Two heddles and pick-up stick
= project
City Girl/Country Girl Apron
doubleweave
How to thread for doubleweave
Doubleweave theory and sampler
Doubleweave ideas
= project
Doubleweave Table Runner
3 pick-up

Because of the unique design of the rigid-heddle loom, it is especially suited to pick-up
patterns. Therefore, I consider this chapter the heart and soul of this book. I’ve talked
about how each thread holds its own individual possibility. You as a weaver have control
over that one thread, and for that matter, each and every thread. But it’s not particularly
practical to control the path of individual threads, and that’s why you have a loom to
help you manage them in groups. Using a pick-up stick (or two) to control warp threads
increases the possibilities and expedites the process of creating patterns. This is where
the rigid-heddle loom shows its true colors.

4 the finger-controlled weaves


pick-up step-by-step 1
Begin by putting the heddle in the down position
(Figure 1). This places the slot threads on top where
they can be easily manipulated. I sometimes like to
insert another pick-up stick between the two layers
so it’s easy to see the raised threads (Figure 2).
As you gain confidence, you may find this isn’t
necessary. Even though the pick-up stick is used
behind the heddle, pick up in front of the heddle
where it’s easier to see what you’re doing.
2
To pick up the slot threads, begin at the selvedge
and use a second pick-up stick to pick up the
desired threads using an up and down dipping
motion. When the pattern says “up,” place a warp
thread on the pick-up stick; when the pattern says
“down,” place a thread underneath the pick-up
stick. Here, I’ve picked 1 up, 1 down (Figure 3). 3
For a 2-up-2-down sequence, there will be two
warp threads on the pick-up stick, two underneath,
and so on.

After you’ve picked up all of the desired threads,


remove the first pick-up stick (the one in Figure 2). 4
Place the heddle in neutral (Figure 4), and then turn
the pick-up stick on edge (Figure 5). This will lift a
different group of threads to create a new shed.

The next step is to transfer that pattern behind the


heddle. To do this, insert a second pick-up stick
behind the heddle into the shed created by the first
5
pick-up stick. Remove the first pick-up stick (the one
that’s in front of the heddle)—it has done its job.
Now, slide the pick-up stick behind the heddle to
the back of the loom. You’ll bring this stick forward
when it’s needed to create a shed.

the weaver’s idea book 5


Weft Floats
All of the following patterns are woven on a single warp of
3/2 pearl cotton threaded in a 10-dent reed in a sequence
of 36 ends of natural, 36 ends alternating gray and natural
(gray in slots), and 36 ends of gray. This is one of the
wonderful advantages of rigid-heddle pattern weaving:
you can pick up and weave a 3/1 lace for a while and then
just take out your pick-up stick and try a 5/1 lace or a
combination of the two. 7/1 Lace
Pick-up stick pattern: *1 up, 3 down; repeat from *.
Row 1. Up.
Row 2. Pick-up stick.
Row 3. Up.
Row 4. Pick-up stick.
Row 5. Up.
Row 6. Down.
Repeat these 6 rows for pattern.
3/1 Lace
Pick-up stick pattern: *1 up, 1 down; repeat from *.
Row 1. Up.
Row 2. Pick-up stick.
Row 3. Up.
Row 4. Down.
Repeat these 4 rows for pattern.

7/1 Lace, Variation


Pick-up stick pattern: *1 up, 3 down; repeat from *.
Row 1. Up.
Row 2. Pick-up stick.
Row 3. Up.
5/1 Lace Row 4. Pick-up stick.
Pick-up stick pattern: *1 up, 2 down; repeat from *. Row 5. Up.
Row 1. Up. Row 6. Down.
Row 2. Pick-up stick. Repeat these 6 rows for pattern.
Row 3. Up.
Row 4. Down.
Repeat these 4 rows for pattern.

6 the finger-controlled weaves


Weft Floats Separated by Plain Weave, 5/1 Spot Lace
Variation 2 Pick-up stick pattern A: *4 up, 2 down; repeat from *.
Pick-up stick pattern: *2 up, 2 down; repeat from *. Pick-up stick pattern B: 1 up, *2 down, 4 up; repeat from *.
Row 1. Up. Row 1. Up.
Row 2. Pick-up stick. Row 2. Pick-up stick A.
Row 3. Up. Row 3. Up.
Row 4. Pick-up stick. Row 4. Pick-up stick A.
Row 5. Up. Row 5. Up.
Row 6. Pick-up stick. Row 6. Down.
Row 7. Up. Row 7. Up.
Row 8. Down. Row 8. Pick-up stick B.
Repeat these 8 rows for pattern. Row 9. Up.
Row 10. Pick-up stick B.
Row 11. Up.
Row 12. Down.
Repeat these 12 rows for pattern.

3/1 and 5/1 Weft Floats


Pick-up stick pattern: *1 up, 1 down, 1 up, 1 down, 2 up, 2
down; repeat from *.
Row 1. Up. 3/1 Floats with Supplementary Weft
Row 2. Pick-up stick. Pick-up stick pattern: *1 up, 1 down; repeat from *.
Row 3. Up. Row 1. Up.
Row 4. Pick-up stick. Row 2. Pick-up stick, supplementary weft.
Row 5. Up. Row 3. Down.
Row 6. Down. Row 4. Pick-up stick, supplementary weft.
Repeat these 6 rows for pattern. Repeat these 4 rows for pattern.

the weaver’s idea book 7


create
exquisite cloth
Use one of the world’s simplest tools to explore the
creative possibilities of cloth! The Weaver’s Idea Book
presents a variety of patterns for simple rigid-heddle
and harness looms, complete with sample swatches
for drafts and project ideas.

Inside readers will learn:


= Techniques including leno, Brooks bouquet,
soumak, and embroidery on fabric.
= Weaving patterns and swatches that illustrate each
technique, accompanied by beautiful
step-by-step photography.
= How to create 10 attractive projects, including
a felted scarf, sturdy tote, evening wrap, table
mat, tunic with pattern trim, felted wrap skirt
with woven-in belt loops, honeycomb pillow pair,
clasped-weft coasters, apron with paper pile, and a
double weave table runner
= Weaving tips and tricks to help weavers at all
levels achieve their textile dreams.

Beginning and experienced weavers on the lookout


for new weave structure patterns will be drawn to the
multitude of designs in The Weaver’s Idea Book.

Jane Patrick is the author of Time to Weave: Hardcover w/concealed wire-o, 8½ x 9, 192 pages
Simply Elegant Projects to Make in Almost No Time 200 photographs, 20 illustrations, and 150 charts
(Interweave), the former editor of Handwoven magazine, ISBN 978-1-59668-175-0
and Creative Director for Schacht Spindle Company in $26.95
Boulder, Colorado. Available July 2010

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