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Introduction to Fashion

Lighting Set-ups

Image Examples

Software

Fashion Retouching

Glossary

Each section is hyperlinked

Developed by
Larrie Tiernan
© larriepaultiernan
Introduction to Fashion Photography
• Learn about lighting for fashion
• How to work with models
• Working in different software
programmes
• Creating a unique photograph
from your fashion images
• Test your knowledge and skills
• Further resources to investigate
and research

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 Lighting Set-ups

Assignment
• Using the following two lighting diagrams set up the studio
with the appropriate lights.

• Experiment with the lighting, using the suggested power output

for each light. Vary the lighting ratio, recording the power settings
and the aperture for each light, using a light meter.

• Record this information in the form of a lighting diagram, with

the appropriate image, as a visual example.

• Research and collect other examples of lighting diagrams for fashion

photography as a starting point for your own personal ideas.

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Creating lighting diagrams

• This file enables you to create

sophisticated diagrams

• It is a Photoshop file with various

folders. Clicking on the layer
brings up a small graphic

• These can be repositioned by

converting the graphic into a
smart object

• This can then be rotated using

Command T ( Control T for PC)

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© christian hough
© christian hough
Christian Hough – Lighting Videos
Hough To: Fashion & Beauty - The Colours of
Life
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2v3MrnDrQw
&feature=channel

Hough To: Hard light made easy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JVjjmtfwHs&feature=channel

Hough To: High Key & Low Key Lighting for

fashion
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsUGbdT1hU
c&feature=channel

Hough To: Ringlite portraiture on a budget

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZnhW0IP8js&feature=channel

Christian’s personal web site –

http://www.christianhough.com/index2.php
Lighting Equipment

Portable strobe lighting Fixed studio lighting

 Honeycomb
• Used to emphasize texture

• Can be used as a hair light

• Used on the background as

an effects light

• Placed behind the model, it works

as a rim light

Honeycomb with Girds - Varying sizes

Soft Lighting - Fashion and Beauty Photography

Grid Diffuser 75 degree Softlite Reflector

Soft Lighting - Fashion and Beauty Photography

Supersoft 600 40 degree Sunlight Reflector

 Working with Models

Model Release Form

A contract between a photographer and a model to agree where

and how your images can be used. Without a signed release you
may be unable to sell an image of a person, even if the subject
was not a professional model and provided verbal consent.
No stock library, for example, will accept a non-released image.

Standard forms are available on the Internet. The Association of

Photographer’s website has standard forms supplied by Getty.

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Image Examples

Task 1
In this section you will see some examples of fashion photography.
Using what you have learnt from your practical activities and by creating
lighting diagrams, work out how these images where lit.

Task 2
Use the Photoshop lighting file to create a set of lighting diagrams.

Task 3
From your own experiments keep a record of the lighting set-ups you
worked with during the fashion photography unit.

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 Fashion Portfolio
using different lighting techniques

famode

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© larriepaultiernan
© larriepaultiernan
© larriepaultiernan
© larriepaultiernan
© larriepaultiernan
© larriepaultiernan
 Retouching - Fashion Photography

Developed by
Main Menu Larrie Tiernan

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 Professional retouching and digital make-up

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 Contents
• step 1: Healing and Retouching
• step 2: Skin Smoothing
• step 3: Digital Make-up
• step 4: Eye Shadow
• step 5: Lip Alterations
• step 6: Whitening Eyes
• step 7: Changing Hair Colour
• step 8: Changing Eye Colour
• step 9: Face Sculpting
• step 10: Final Sharpening of Image

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 Healing Brush

Create separate layer for Healing

Name layer: Healing Layer

Click on the healing brush tool
Sample: Use all layers / soft edged brush
Use brush size 30 pixels
Pick clean area of skin
ALT click and retouch blemish

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 Skin smoothing

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 Skin smoothing

New Layer above Healing layer

Name layer: Skin Smoothing
Use brush size 40 – 80 pixels
With paint brush selected change opacity
to 20% (10% for more sweeps and working
in a subtle manner)
Press ALT key and sample a colour
Smooth over blemish 1- 3 times
This technique can reduce lines under
eyes
Helps reduce shine
If you make a mistake Control Z (PC)
Command Z (Mac)

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 Digital Make-up

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 Creative Make-up / Eye liner

Create New Layer

Name Layer: Eye Liner
Zoom in on the eye using the Navigator Tool
Hit D on the keyboard to set the foreground colour as BLACK
Use brush size 10 pixels
With paint brush selected change opacity to 20% (10% for
more sweeps and working in a subtle manner)
Run brush over area for ‘eye liner’
Don’t need to be too perfect
Once you’ve done one eye use Space Bar to scroll across to
other eye
Any mistakes can be removed by using the Eraser Tool
Set opacity to 40% to remove mistakes

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 Eye Shadow

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 Creating Eye Shadow
Create New Layer
Name Layer: Eye Shadow
Use Polygonal Lasso Tool
Draw around the area you want to designate as the Eye Shadow around one
eye
Hold down Shift Key and designate an area for Eye Shadow around the other
eye

This technique can be also used for the Cheekbone

Hold down Shift Key and designate an area for the Cheekbone
Feather selection by 30 pixels

Go to SELECT, FEATHER and choose 20 pixels and click OK

Create an ADJUSTMENT Layer
Go to BLACK/WHITE Ikon on the Layers palette and click HUE/Saturation

In the HUE/SATURATION Menu type in the following:

HUE = -5
SATURATION = +18
LIGHTNESS = +28

These are starting points and can be modified dependent on the image
Eye Shadow and Cheekbone can be modified separately

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 Lip Alterations

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 Lip alteration
Use POLYGONAL LASSO Tool
Click around the lips keeping to the edge of the lip line
Once the lips are selected FEATHER the selection
SELECT, FEATHER and choose a feather of 5 pixels and
click OK
Make another ADJUSTMENT LAYER, select
HUE/SATURATION

In the HUE/SATURATION Menu type in the following:

HUE = -6
SATURATION = +25
LIGHTNESS = -11

These are starting points and can be modified dependent on

the image

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 Whitening eyes

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 Whitening Eyes
Use POLYGONAL LASSO Tool
Click around the whites of the eye
Add to the selection by holding down the Shift Key
Hold down SPACE BAR, scroll to the other eye
Add to the selection by holding down the Shift Key and
select whites of other eye
Once the whites of the eyes are selected FEATHER the
selection
SELECT, FEATHER and choose a feather of 5 pixels and
click OK
Make another ADJUSTMENT LAYER, select CURVES
Click on the line and pull the CURVE slightly up
Adjust appropriately

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 Changing Hair Colour

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 Changing Hair Colour
Create a new layer
Name the Layer: Hair
Use POLYGONAL LASSO Tool
Click around the are of hair that you want to change colour

SELECT, FEATHER and choose a feather of 30 pixels and

click OK
Make another Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer,
Tick COLORIZE

In the HUE/SATURATION Menu I typed in the following:

HUE = +258
SATURATION = -30
LIGHTNESS = -23

Adjust appropriately to your own taste

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 Changing Eye Colour

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 Changing Eye Colour
Create a new layer
Name the Layer: Eye Colour
Use POLYGONAL LASSO Tool
Click around the Iris of the eye
Add to the selection by holding down the Shift Key
Hold down SPACE BAR, scroll to the other eye
Add to the selection by holding down the Shift Key and select Iris of
other eye
Once the Irises of the eyes are selected FEATHER the selection

SELECT, FEATHER and choose a feather of 5 pixels and click OK

Make another Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer,
Tick COLORIZE

In the HUE/SATURATION Menu I typed in the following:

HUE = +258
SATURATION = -30
LIGHTNESS = -23

Adjust appropriately to your own taste

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 Face Sculpting

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 Face Sculpting
For this next technique we will need to crunch all of Layers
into ONE Layer

Look at all your Layers created so far

Create a NEW Layer right at the top of the layers stack
Hold down the ALT Key
Click on the flyout in the layers palette arrow and without
releasing the Mouse Button
Click on MERGE VISIBLE this will merge all the layers
together

This is similar to Flattening without collapsing all of the

Layers

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 Liquify Tool

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 Using the Liquify Tool to re-sculpt the features of the FACE

1. Bloat Tool

Go to FILTER and then LIQUIFY

You are now in the LIQUIFY palette
Click on the BLOAT Tool
Choose a Brush size of 200 pixels in the Liquify Menu
Move the CROSS HAIR over the centre of one of the eyes and
click ONCE or TWICE
Move the CROSS HAIR over the centre of the second of the
eye and click Once or TWICE

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 Using the Liquify Tool to re-sculpt the features of the FACE

1. Pucker Tool

Go to FILTER and then LIQUIFY

You are now in the LIQUIFY palette
Click on the Pucker Tool
Choose a Brush size of 200 pixels in the Liquify Menu
Move the CROSS HAIR over the nose and sweep ONCE or
TWICE

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 Final Sharpening of Image

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 Final Sharpening of Image

SAVE

Save the File as another PSD file format with a different name

Flatten Image

SHARPENING some of the Facial Features

Us the POLYGONAL Lasso Tool

Select around the central features of the face including the
Eyebrows, Eyes Nose and Mouth
Select, Feather and choose 100 pixels
Then go to FILTER, SHARPEN and select UNSHARP MASK
In the UNSHARP MASK menu choose

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Software

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Software
Lightroom is a separate software programme which
allows you to import images and work on them
In an efficient workflow environment.

It has a powerful raw conversion facility and

allows for customized presets.

You can create a library of images to be used

in making a slide show, a website or to be printed out.

It is divided into five sections

Library Develop Slideshow Print Web

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 Creating a Fashion Image
• In this section the photographer uses a particular lighting
set-up
• Uses Lightroom with a downloaded preset
• Works in Photoshop to create an initial look
• Finishes off the image in Photoshop using retouching
and filter techniques

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The key to this technique is to create a light tunnel,
using foam board. This channels the light from the
Beauty Dish onto the model, creating a soft light.
The Honeycomb creates the hair light. The yellow
gel provides the coloured light for the hair.
© larriepaultiernan
The post production in Lightroom and Photoshop
creates a lighting effect reminiscent of the film 300.
 Glossary Main Menu
Agency A modelling agency is responsible for representing and promoting its
roster of models and booking jobs for them. Modelling agencies usually handle
contracts, payments and the whole business side of the model's life.

Agency Book The book agencies distribute to all of their clients to promote their
models. The book contains the comp card for each model represented by the
agency. Models are often required to pay a fee to have their comp card printed
in the book.

Beauty Shot A close-up shot of part or all of the face (lips, eyes, etc.). This kind
of photo is usually used in a cosmetics print ad or in a magazine editorial about
skin care products, and make-up products,.

Bio The condensed story of a model's life - basically a resume with particular
jobs highlighted.

Bookout When you tell your agent you're not available for a job, for either
professional or personal reasons, and the agent cannot book you during that
time, you've "booked out" for that time.

Clean-Clean A specification on a call-sheet that means clean hair, clean face.

Models should show up for the photo shoot with no make-up on and freshly
washed hair. The opposite of this is "hair and make-up ready," which is pretty
self-explanatory.
 Glossary

Composite Card Also referred to as a comp card, zed card or model business card. A
comp card is a piece of card stock printed with at least two photos of you in various
poses, settings, outfits and looks (the widest variety possible). It includes your name,
your contact information, usually your agency's info and all your stats. Comp cards
come in lots of different formats depending on the city, agency and the type of model
or actor you are. Agencies will usually issue comp cards for you after they sign you.

Contact Sheet Also called Proofs. A photographer's term for a sheet of film printed with
small versions of all the photos taken during the photo shoot. From the contact sheet,
the photographer and the client will choose which shots they want to print and
enlarge.

Cove Studio This is a photography studio that has no corners - instead, it's sort of
rounded everywhere with built-in backdrops. In photographs, corners and edges (like
where the wall meets the floor) tend to look ugly. A cove studio eliminates this effect.
Seamless paper gives the same effect in a regular studio.

Daylight Studio A photographic studio that is lit with natural light, usually by way of
windows and skylights.

Dresser The person who makes sure that clothes fit the model properly, and pins them
if necessary.

Fitting The session that takes place before the photo shoot where the clothes to be
modelled are fit onto the model. Based on the model's particulars, the clothes are
usually altered to fit. When models go to a fitting, they are expected to stand around
partially clothed all day long, in front of several people. These people will usually be
stylists, seamstresses and designers.
 Glossary

Freelance Model A model listed with multiple agencies (as opposed to one particular
agency) or a self-promoting model who works without an agent. Most commercial
print models are freelance and work as independent contractors.

Go-see A model's appointment to see a potential client.

Halftime Models are paid halftime for all travel time. If your day rate is £50 an hour,
you'll get £25 for each hour you travel to and from that job. Your agency also gets
20% of halftime travel rates.

Head Sheet A poster displaying head shots and information about models represented
by a modeling agency. Models may have to pay to appear on an agency's headsheet.

Model Release A legal document provided by the client/photographer and signed by the
model or agent. It gives permission to the photographer to use photographs taken at
a particular sitting. If photographs are used without a release, or in a way different
from what is stated in the release, then the model can sue for breach of contract.

Photographer Release A contract signed by the photographer giving permission to the

model to use the photographs taken during a particular sitting.

Portfolio Also called a Book or Model's Book. A notebook containing a collection of a

model's best photographs (usually size 8"x10") and tear sheets demonstrating their
abilities in front of the camera. Models can usually purchase good portfolios stamped
with their agency's name and logo directly from the agency, but plain black portfolios
work fine, too.
 Glossary

Prints For Time An agreement between the model and photographer, whereby they
work for each other on a mutually beneficial basis, and no money changes hands. The
photographer provides a selection of prints from the shoot in recognition of the
model's time commitment.

Resume Sheet listing a model's education, experience, and vital statistics. The resume
is usually attached to an 8X10 or a composite.

Tear Sheet The actual page torn from the magazine a model appeared in. Models put
their tear sheets in their portfolios. Tearsheets are even better than photos, because it
shows the kind of work the model has already done.

Test Shoot When a model and photographer work together on a new idea or on their
portfolios. No fees other than sharing film-and-developing expenses are involved.
Model and Photographer Releases should be signed before the session.

Usages Models get paid for each different medium in which their photograph is used.
These different mediums, or usages, may include: consumer magazines, trade
magazines, product packaging, print ads, bus ads, subway ads, billboards, magazine
covers, direct mail, magazine editorials, posters, catalogues, brochures, point-of-
purchase (point-of-sale or p-o-p), annual reports, book covers, kiosk, duratrans
(those big portable billboards that are towed around behind trucks), newspapers, etc.
The model receives an additional fee for each usage the client buys. Usages also vary
according to time and region. The longer the ad runs and the more markets in which it
appears, all drive up the model's fee. The largest usage is the unlimited time usage,
worldwide buyout. That means the client can plaster the photograph across every city
in the world in every possible usage until the end of time.
 Copyright Information © 2010

• Slide 14,15 Chrisitian Hough

© Chrisitian Hough 2008
• All other images Larrie Tiernan
© larriepaultiernan 2010

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