Professional Documents
Culture Documents
1. Fiber Slide # 2
2. Spinning Slide # 81
3. Weaving Slide # 117
4. Knitting Slide # 166
5. Fabric Pretreatment Slide # 216
6. Dyeing Slide # 236
7. Printing Slide # 297
8. Finishing Slide # 404
9. Washing Slide # 466
10. Fabric Inspection Slide # 500
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FIBER
► A unit of matter characterized by Flexibility, Fineness
and a high length to width ratio.
Fiber
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Natural Fiber
Linen Metal
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Natural Fiber
Linen Metal
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Man Made Fiber
Viscose Polyester
Acetate Nylon
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Fiber
Cotton Silk
Polyester Nylon
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Primary Properties
► Length; length-width ratio
► Tenacity (strength)
► Flexibility (pliability)
► Acceptable extensibility for processing
► Cohesion
► Uniformity of properties
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Secondary Properties
► Physical shape (cross-section, surface contour, etc.
► Specific gravity (influence weight, cover, etc.)
► Moisture regain and moisture absorption (comfort, static
electricity, etc.)
► Elastic character - tensile and compression
►Thermoplasticity (softening point and heat-set character)
► Dyeability
► Resistance to solvents, corrosive chemicals, micro-
organisms, and environmental conditions
► Flammability
► Luster
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Fiber Primary Features Secondary Features
Cotton 4 2 2 1 4 4 2 2 4 4 4 2 2 3 0 4 3 4 0 2 4 2 59
Wool 3 3 0 4 4 2 1 2 4 4 0 4 2 4 0 2 3 4 3 2 4 4 59
Silk 4 4 4 4 4 4 0 2 4 4 2 2 4 4 1 4 3 4 3 2 2 4 69
Viscose 4 4 2 3 2 4 4 2 4 4 2 0 0 0 0 4 3 4 0 4 4 2 56
Acetate 4 4 0 3 2 2 4 0 2 2 4 2 4 4 2 4 2 2 2 0 4 4 57
Polymaid 4 4 4 4 4 2 3 4 2 2 4 2 4 4 4 2 2 2 2 4 2 2 67
Acrylic 4 4 3 4 4 0 3 4 0 0 2 4 4 2 4 4 0 2 1 2 4 4 59
Polyseter 4 4 4 4 4 0 3 4 0 0 2 4 4 4 4 0 2 2 2 4 4 4 63
Fineness
Length
Strength
Elongation
Elasticity
Water Imbibition
Price
Abrasion Resistance
Dye Affinity
Static
Laundering
Bulking Power
Drape and Handle
Crease Resistance
Crease Recovery
Pilling
Wicking
Softening Point
Flammability
Fatigue Resistance
Light Stability
Aesthetic Apparance
Grand Total
0 - Poor ; 2 – Generally Acceptable ; 4 – Very Good
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General Fiber Characteristics
► External Structure
●1. Length
■ (short staple 0.5 – 2.5 inches, long staple > 2
inches)
●2. Diameter
■ (natural 10-20 microns, manufactured 10 – 50
microns)
●3. Cross-sectional shape
●4. Crimp
●5. Color
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General Fiber Characteristics
► Internal Structure
●1. Chemical Composition
■ Sequence and kind of atoms in structure
●2. Crystallinity
■ Polymer chains or sections packed together
●3. Orientation
■ Alignment of chains along fiber axis
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General Fiber Characteristics
► Thermal Properties
●1. Melting Temperature
●2. Glass Transition Temperature
■ Most polymers are thermoplastic – they soften
before melting
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General Fiber Characteristics
► Physical Properties
●1. Breaking Strength
■ Force required to break a fiber
●2. Breaking Elongation
■ Amount of stretch before breaking
●3. Modulus
■ Resistance to deformation
●4. Toughness
■ Amount of energy absorbed
●5. Elasticity
■ Ability to recover after being deformed
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General Fiber Characteristics
► Chemical Properties
●1. Density
●2. Moisture Regain
●3. Chemical Resistance
●4. Dyeability
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Cotton
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Cotton
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Cotton: Advantages
► Absorbent.
► Cool.
► Comfortable to wear.
► Durable.
► Economical.
► Does not melt.
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Cotton: Limitations
► Wrinkles unless treated.
► Susceptible to mildew and strong acids.
► May scorch.
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Cotton
► Cotton is hypoallergenic since it doesn‟t irritate sensitive
skin or cause allergies
► Cotton‟s softness makes it a preferred fabric for
underwear and other garments worn next to the skin
► Cotton‟s adaptability allows it to blend easily with most
other fibres including synthetics such as polyester and lycra
► Cotton is one of the easiest fabrics to dye, making it very
popular with fashion and homeware designers
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Cotton
► Cotton can be given a coating or a finish. For example,
cotton used in fire fighting uniforms is coated and finished
with Proban®, a flame-retardant chemical treatment
► Durable press is a finishing treatment used in cotton
garments to eliminate creasing and reduce the need to
iron. It retains specific contours such as creases and pleats
to be resistant to normal usage, washing or dry cleaning
► Cotton has a high absorbency rate and holds up to 27
times its own weight in water
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Cotton
► Cotton also becomes stronger when wet
► Cotton‟s strength and absorbency levels make it an
ideal fabric for medical and personal hygiene products such
as bandages and swabs
► Terry cloth is a cotton fabric used to make common
items such as towels. It can be safely washed in very hot
water and with strong bleach and/or detergent
► Cotton keeps the body cool in summer and warm in
winter because it is a good conductor of heat
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Cotton
► Cotton is often used in the manufacture of curtains, tents
and tarpaulins as it is not easily damaged by sunlight
► Cotton breathes easily as a result of its unique fibre
structure. This attribute makes cotton more comfortable to
wear than artificial fibres unable to provide similar
ventilation
► Unlike synthetic fibres, cotton is a natural product and
contains no chemicals
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Cotton Products
► Almost all parts of the cotton plant are used in some
way, including the cottonseed, lint (raw cotton fibre), stalk
and hull (shell)
► Popular uses for cotton fibre include clothing apparel,
home furnishings and industrial/medical products such as
tents, bandages and cotton swabs
► Well known cotton fibre products include denim jeans,
socks, towels, t-shirts, bed sheets and underwear
► Cotton fibre can be woven or knitted into fabrics such as
velvet, corduroy, chambray, velour, jersey and flannel
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Cotton Products
► Linters are the very short fibres that remain on the
cottonseed after ginning. Once removed and processed,
linters are used to produce goods such as bandages,
cotton buds, and x-rays
► The fibre from one 227 kg cotton bale can produce 215
pairs of jeans, 250 single bed sheets, 750 shirts, 1,200 t-
shirts, 2,100 pairs of boxer shorts, 3,000 nappies, 4,300
pairs of socks or 680,000 cotton balls
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Flex / Linen
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Linen: Advantages
► Best wicking of natural fibers; therefore, cool to wear.
► Dries quickly.
► Natural, soft sheen.
► Strong and durable.
► Does not melt.
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Linen: Limitations
► Wrinkles badly unless treated.
► Susceptible to mildew and strong acids.
► Color frosts on creases.
► May be weakened with repeated creasing in the same
place.
► May scorch.
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Silk
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Silk
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Silk
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Silk: Advantages
► Luxurious.
► Lightweight.
► Dyes in beautiful, rich colors.
► Absorbent.
► Strong.
► Moderately wrinkle resistant.
► Resists mildew and moths.
► Does not melt.
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Silk : Limitations
► Weakened by sunlight, perspiration and chlorine bleach.
► Absorbs body oils and grease stains.
► Water spots.
► Yellows and fades with age.
► Subject to attack by carpet beetles unless treated.
► Affected by high temperatures.
► Loses strength when wet.
► Should be pressed with a press cloth.
► Color damaged by hair spray.
► Damaged by perfumes.
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Wool
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Wool
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Wool: Advantages
► Warm and comfortable to wear.
► Absorbent.
► Wrinkle resistant.
► Mold and shape easily when pressed.
► Water repellent.
► Flame resistant.
► Does not melt.
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Wool: Limitations
► Subject to attack by moths and carpet beetles unless
treated.
► May shrink and felt when laundered unless blended or
especially treated.
► Damaged by chlorine bleach.
► Damaged by dry heat.
► Loses strength when wet.
► Sensitive to alkaline agents.
► Should be pressed with a press cloth.
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Man Made Fiber
nylon 1938
modacrylic 1949
Polyester 1953
Spandex 1959
polyolefin 1961
aramid 1974
novoloid 1974
Vectran 1985
PBI 1986
Fluorocarbon (WL Gore) 1970?
Carbon 1970's?
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Melt Spinnig
► Typical Melt Spun Fibers
●Nylon
●Polyester
●Polypropylene
►Disadvantages
● Separate drawing step (unless spin draw)
►Advantages
●High speed (275 to 1500 yddmin); (4000 yddmin spin
draw)
●No solvents
●No purification problems
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Melt Spinning
► Melt Spinning
● simplest and economical
● melting the polymers
● molten polymer is extruded from spinneret
►ONLY limited to polymers which are stable to high
temperatures.
► E.g., polyester, polyamides, polystryrene. etc
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Dry Spinning
► Typical Dry Spun Fibers
●Acetate
●Spandex
► Disadvantages
●Flammable solvent hazards
●Solvent recovery
●Slow (200 - 400 yd/min)
► Advantages
●Yarn does not require purification
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Wet spinning
► Typical Wet Spun Fibers
● Viscose
► Disadvantages
●Slow (70 - 150 yd/min)
●Washing to remove impurities
●Solvent and chemical recovery
► Advantages
● Large tows can be handled
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Viscose
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Viscose
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Rayon: Advantages
► Dyes easily.
► Versatile.
► Relatively inexpensive.
► Absorbent.
► Does not melt.
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Rayon: Limitations
► Wrinkles easily.
► Weaker when wet.
► Damaged by strong acids and mildew.
► May shrink or stretch unless treated.
► May scorch.
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Nylon
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Nylon: Advantages
► Extremely strong.
► Extremely durable.
► Can be heat set to retain pleats.
► Wrinkle resistant.
► Resists mildew and insect damage.
► Does not burn easily.
► High elasticity.
► Very resistant to abrasion.
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Nylon: Limitations
► Builds up static electricity.
► Low moisture absorption.
► Grays and yellows with age and poor care.
► Picks up dye and soil in laundering.
► Absorbs and holds body oils and perspiration stains.
► Melts if too hot.
► Pills if spun.
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Polyester
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Polyester: Advantages
► Wrinkle resistant.
► Retains heat-set pleats and creases.
► Superior wash-wear performance.
► Strong.
► Resists damage from abrasion, strong sunlight, weather
conditions, moths, mildew and most strong chemicals.
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Polyester: Limitations
► Absorbs body oils.
► Accumulates static electricity.
► May pill and attract lint.
► Absorbs perspiration odor.
► Melts if too hot.
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Spandex
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Spandex: Advantages
► Provides strength without weight.
► Resists perspiration, cosmetic oils and lotions.
► Has elasticity; great stretch and recovery.
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Spandex: Limitations
► Damaged by chlorine bleach.
► Absorbs little moisture.
► May yellow when exposed to light.
► Melts at relatively low heat.
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Polypropylene
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Fiber Strength
Breaking T enacity
Fiber (Grams/Denier)
Name Dry Wet
Na tura l Fibe rs
Cotton 4.0 5.0
Flax 5.5 6.5
Silk 4.5 3.9
W ool 1.5 1.0
Ma n-Ma de Fibe rs
Acetate 1.2-1.5 0.8-1.2
Acrylic 2.0-3.5 1.8-3.3
Aramid (Filament) 4.3-5.1 3.2-3.9
Aramid (Staple 3.7-5.3 2.7-4.1
Fluorocarbon 2.0 SAME
Glass 7.0 SAME
Modacrylic 2.0-3.5 SAME
Novaloid 1.5-2.5 1.3-2.3
Nylon 6 (Filament) 6.0-9.5 5.0-8.0
Nylon 6 (Staple) 2.5 2.0
Nylon 66 (Filament) 3.5-7.2 3.2-6.5
Nylon 66 (Staple) 3.0-6.0 2.6-5.4
Nylon 66 HT 6.0-9.5 5.0-8.0
Olefin 4.8 6.0
Polyester (Filament) 4.0-5.5 SAME
Polyester (Staple 2.5-5.5 SAME
Polyester (Filament HT) 6.3-9.5 SAME
Rayon 0.73-2.6 0.7-1.8
Rayon HT 3.0-6.0 1.9-4.6
Rayon HW M 2.5-5.5 1.8-4.0
Rubber 0.3 SAME
Saran 1.5 SAME
Spandex 0.6-0.9 SAME
Vinyon 0.7-1.0 SAME
Kevlar 20.0 18.0
Spectra 30-35 SAME
Vectran HS 23.0 SAME
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Specific Gravity
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Thermal Properties
Man-made Fibers
Acetate 446 230 364 184 350 177
Arnel Triacetate 575 302 482 250 464 240
Acrylic 400-490 204-254 300-350 149-176
Aramid Doesn't melt: carbonizes above 800 F.
Glass 1400-3033
Modacrylic 410 210 300 149 200-250 93-121
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Thermal Properties
Softenting Safe Ironing
Fiber Melting Point Sticking Temperature
Point *
F C F C F C
Novoloid Nonmelting
Nylon 6 414 212 340 171 300 149
Nylon 66 482 250 445 229 350 177
Olefin 275 135 260 127 150 66
(Lowest Possible)
Polyester PET 480 249 460 338 325
Polyester PCDT 550 311 490 254 350
Rayon Nonmelting 375
Saran 350 177 300 149 Do Not Iron
Spandex 446 230 347 175 300
Vinyon 285 140 200 93 Do Not Iron
Kevlar Nonmelting
Spectra 285 140 260 127 (Lowest Possible)
Vectran 625 300
*Lowest setting on irons: 185-225 F.
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Absorbency
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Sunlight Resistance
Glass Excellent
Acrylic
Modacrylic
Polyester
Flax
Cotton
Rayon
Triacetate To
Acetate
Olefin
Nylon
Wool
Silk
Kevlar
Vectran Poor
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Fiber Blends - Some Reasons For
Blending
► To facilitate processing
► To improve properties
● Abrasion resistance
● Strength
● Absorbency
● Hand
● Dimensional stability
● Resistance to wrinkling
► To produce multi-color fabrics
► To reduce cost
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Summary Of Properties Desired For
Textile Fibers
► Tenacity: 3 - 5 gram/denier
► Elongation at break: 10 - 35%
► Recovery from elongation: 100% at strains up to 5%
► Modulus of elasticity: 30 - 60 gram/denier
► Moisture absorbency: 2 - 5%
► Zero strength temperature (excessive creep and
softening point): above 215' C
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Summary Of Properties Desired For
Textile Fibers
► High abrasion resistance (varies with type fabric
structure)
► Dyeable
► Low flammability
► Insoluble with low swelling in water, in moderately
strong acids and bases and conventional organic solvents
from room temperature to 100' c
► Ease of care
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Fiber Usage
Customer Term Textile Property
Comfort Moisture Character
Flexibility
Elasticity
Thermal Character
Safety Flammability
Chemical Resistance
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Fibers For Products
► Bed Shits
● The Consumer Expects the Soft and Warm Handle
with Easy care Properties.
● Sheets are expected to be hard wearing and
dimensional stable.
● The majority of bed sheets are manufactured from
polyester / cotton blends.
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Fibers For Products
► Shirting
● Shirts are expected to absorb perspiration as well as
being non creasing and retaining their shape in wear.
● Easy care properties are essential and shirts must be
hard wearing to give long service life.
● Like bed sheets, most shirts are made from polyester
/ cotton blends.
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Fibers For Products
► Knitted Jumpers
● Jumpers are worn for warmth and need to be elastic so
that they do not lose their shape in wear.
● Wool is often used, but its high cost is a disadvantage.
● Acrylic fibres are cheaper and have better easy care
characteristic.
● Increasingly, cotton is used for jumpers and polyester /
cotton for sweatshirts.
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Fibers For Products
► Swimwear
● Swimwear needs to fit the body but also allow
freedom of movement.
● The fibres must be resistance to salt water, as well as
chlorinated water in swimming baths.
● almost exclusively, polyamids are used as the main
fibres, with about % of Elastine to give stretch.
● This combination dries quickly since neither is water
absorbent.
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Fibers For Products
► Towels
● The most important characteristic of fiber for towels is
the ability to absorb the water.
● It is useful that the towel will retain its shape in use
and be soft to the touch.
● Cotton is the major fiber used although viscose could
also be used.
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Fibers For Products
► Tights
● Tights must fits to legs closely, yet be sufficiently
elastic to allow moments.
● The fiber must be strong and extensible to give
resistance to snagging, and highly elastic to prevent
wrinkling.
● Polyamide is used for the main part of the tights while
a small qty of elastane is used for the waisteband.
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Fibers For Products
► Trousers
● The fibres used for the trousers can vary greatly
according to consumer requirements.
● In all, easy care and dimensional stability for shape
retentation are important.
● For warmth, polyester/wool is effective. This blend is
less care.
● Summer trousers are often made from
polyester/cotton and denim jeans are just 100% cotton.
● Jeans do not have easy care properties but are hard
wearing; creasing in use is often a positive advantage to
the consumer.
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Spinning
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Yarns
Spun Filament
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Spun Yarn
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Fiber
Blow Room
Carding
Draw Frame
Combing
Speed Frame
Ring Frame
Yarn
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Fiber
Blow Room
Lap
Carding
Card Sliver
Draw Frame
D/F Sliver
Combing
Combed Sliver
Speed Frame
Roving
Ring Frame
Yarn
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Fiber
Lap
Card Sliver
D/F Sliver
Combed Sliver
Roving
Yarn
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Blow Room
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Bale to Lap
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Function
► Opening
► Cleaning
► Mixing
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Mixing
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Mixing
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Carding
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Carding
► Function
● Opening
● Cleaning
► Input
● Lap
► Output
● Card Sliver
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Draw Frame
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Drafting
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Draw Frame
► Function
● To Parallel the Fibres
● Drafting
► Input
● 8-10 Card Sliver
► Output
● Drew Frame Sliver
Knit de Knit
Air Jet
Clockwise
Anticlockwise
Direct Indirect
Length is Constant
Weight is Constant
Weight is Variable
Length is Variable
e.g.
e.g.
Tex
English
Denier
1 10 30 40 50
1000 mtrs 1
or g
1 Km 10
m 30 gm 40 gm 50 gm
gm
1 lbs
each
70 60 50 40 30 25 20 10 5 1
Direct System
1 5 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70
Direct System
1 5 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70
Harness
Weft
Warp Beam Shuttle
Plain
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Weaving is the intersection of two Knitting is the interlooping of yarn(s),
sets of straight threads, warp and which are interlaced in a variety of
weft, which cross and interweave at ways to form a fabric.
right angles to each other.
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Woven Fabrics Knitted Fabrics
Rigid (Inextensible), High Weft Knit : Highly Extensible,
Elastic Recovery. Incomplete Elastic Recovery.
Easy to Tear Difficult to Tear
Stiffer Limb
Air Permeability is Less Air Permeability is More
Stronger Fabrics coz High Twist in Weaker Fabrics coz Less Twist
Yarns in Yarns
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Stitch Density : Stitch density refers to the total
number of loops in a measured area of fabric.
Stitch Density is the product of the courses
and wales per unit length and is measured in units per square
per centimeter.
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NEEDLE LOOP
The needle loop (H + L in Fig) is the basic unit of knitted
structure. It consists of a head (H) and two side limbs or
legs (L). At the base of each leg is a foot (F), which
meshes through the head of the loop formed at the
previous knitting cycle, usually by that needle. The yarn
passes from the foot of one loop into the foot and leg of
the next loop formed by it.
SINKER LOOP
The sinker loop (S in Fig) is the piece of yarn that joins
one weft knitted needle loop to the next.
{The sinker is the second primary
knitting element (the needle being the
first). It is a thin metal plate with an
individual or a collective action
operating approximately at right angles
from the hook side of the needle bed,
between adjacent needles.}
Functions: Loop formation,
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Knocking-over Sinker Loop
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Knitting Notations
A knitting notation is a simple, easily-understood,
symbolic representation of a knitting repeat
sequence and its resultant fabric structure that
eliminates the need for time-consuming and possibly
confusing sketches and written descriptions.
Point Paper
Each point represents a needle in plan view from above and, after the
thread path has been drawn, it also Represents its stitch.
Each horizontal row of points thus represents adjacent needles during
the same knitting cycle and the course produced by them.
The lowest row of points represents the starting course in knitting
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Graph/Squared Paper
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TYPES OF NEEDLES
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LATCH NEEDLE
1 The hook
2 The slot or saw cut
3 The cheeks or slot walls
4 The rivet
5 The latch-blade
6 The latch spoon
7 The stem
8 The butt
9 The tail
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The knitting action of the latch needle
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COMPOUND NEEDLE
Compound needles consist of two separately-
controlled parts – the open hook and the sliding
closing element (tongue, latch, piston, plunger).
It is most popular in Warp Knitting m/c.
Strain is not put on the yarn.
Both members of Compound Needle have a
straight moment, thus the knitting speed can be
increased.
These are very expensive to manufacture.
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2007 To Produce Costlier
www.vasantkothari.com To Produce
182
WEFT KNITTING
♣ In weft knitting, the loops are formed across the width of the
fabric, and each weft thread is fed, more or less, at right angles
to the direction in which the fabric is produced.
♣ It is possible to knit with only one thread or cone of yarn,
though production demands have resulted in circular weft
knitting machines being manufactured wit up to 192 threads
(feeders).
♣ Compared to Warp knitting, Weft knitting is more versatile
method of fabric production in terms of both the range of fabric
structures that can be produced and the yarn types that can be
utilised.
♣ Weft knitting is the simplest method of converting a yarn into
a fabric.
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WEFT KNITTING MACHINE
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(c) Yarn feeding. The sinker is
partially withdrawn allowing the feeder
to present its yarn to the descending
needle hook and also freeing the old
loop so that It can slide up the needle
stem and under the open latch spoon.
1 x 1 Purl fabric has loops knitted to the front and back on alternate
courses, in the contrast to a 1 x 1 rib fabric which is knitted to the front
and back on alternate wales.
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Interlock is a popular double jersey structure produced on a cylinder
and dial circular weft knitting machine.
In the simplest purl structures each wale consists of face and reverse
loops.
It is reversible in appearance and has soft hand with full cover.
Its thickness is theoretically double to that of plain knit.
Like the jersey knit fabric, it can be unroved from either end.
As the link machine has a horizontal bed for the needles to
reciprocate, the speed of the machine and the production is much less.
It does not curl at the edges and because of alternate face and
reverse courses it is a balance structure which property is useful in
cutting and sewing.
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1 Engagement of the head of the receiving slider with the needle
hook that was originally knitting from the opposing bed.
2 Cam action causing the head of the delivering slider to pivot
outwards from the trick and thus disengage itself from the other hook
of the needle.
3 Sufficient free space to allow the heads of the sliders to pivot
outwards from their tricks during engagement and disengagement of
the needles.
4 A positive action which maintains the engagement of the head of a
slider with a needle hook throughout its knitting cycle by ensuring
that it is pressed down into
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Circular Fabric Knitting
Machine
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WARP KNITTING
Warp knitting forms fabric by interlacing loops of yarn, but vertically
down the length of the fabric in contrast to weft knitting.
Each needle in the knitting width must be fed by at least one yarn
and in line with the direction of fabric production.
It is the fastest method of fabric production using mainly continuous
filament yarns.
Construction
Beams supply the warp sheets in parallel form to
the guide bars, whose pattern control determines
the timing and configuration of the lapping
movements in the form of overlaps and underlaps.
The needles intermesh the new overlaps through
the old overlaps to form the intermeshed loop
structure.
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WARP KNITTING MACHINES
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Tricot Machine Raschel Machine
Needles Beard Latch or Compound
Machine Gauge Finer Gauge 24s-40s Common Gauge 30,40 & 56
Cloth Take up The fabric comes off the The fabric comes off the
machine at 90o to the needle machine at 170o to175o the
bed needle bed
Speed Higher Less
Versatility Less Versatile More Versatile
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TRICOT MACHINE
The main parts of TRICOT MACINE are :
The warp beam carrying warp threads.
The sley bars which space the warp threads.
The tension bar which maintains tension in the warp threads, one
bar foe each warp.
The knitting element, comprising the warp guides, sinkers, needles
& presser bar.
The fabric take up rollers which take the fabric from the rollers at a
constant rate.
The batch roller which winds up the fabric on a large rolls &
The crank shaft drive within a case which holds the mechanism for
driving the knitting elements.
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of a bearded needle tricot machine
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APPLICATIONS
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RASCHEL MACHINE
The main Parts of the RASCHEL MACHINE are :
The ground beams and pattern beams having an access from front,
top and back
The tension bar (one for each warp) which maintains tension in the
warp threads.
Guide bars and guide bar levers and the sley bar.
The knitting elements comprising guides, sinkers, needles, latch
needles and trick plates.
The fabric tension rollers, situated close to the knitting elements.
The fabric batch roller &
Main drive for the cam shaft.
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Compound-Needle Warp Knitting Machine
Desizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Mercerizing
Heat Setting
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Singeing
► Definition
● Singeing is the burning off of loose fibers sticking out
of textile goods. It is usually the first step carried out
after weaving
► Purpose
● Clean fabric surface
● Reduce pilling
● Increased wettability
● Improved visibility of the fabric structure
● Decreased contamination through removal of fluff and
lint.
Before After
►Hydrophobic Fibers
Acetate, Polyesters, Polyamides, etc…
Dyes Pigment
Water Insoluble
Direct
Reactive
Vat
Sulphur
Azoic
Acid
Mordant
Basic
Disperse
► Fiber
…… Stock Dyeing and Top Dyeing
► Yarn
…... Skein, Package and Beam Dyeing
► Fabric
……Winch, Jet, Jig, Aerodynamic, Pad & Beam
► Garment
…… Paddle
Color Crocking
► Color in a dyed fabric which rubs off rather easily onto
other fabric surface.
► Caused by inadequate scouring at the completion of the
dyeing cycle.
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Color Bleeding
► Loss of color from a dyed fabric when immersed in a
liquid.
► The liquid subsequently becomes colored.
Uneven Shade
► Differences in the shade of a fabric from edge to edge or
one end of the fabric to the other.
Printed Overdyed
Engraved Roller Very Good- Fine Detail, tone Eff Limited Max 41 cm
Hand Screen Can be Good High
Flat Bed Screen Very Good High
Rotary Screen Very Good Moderate 100cm
Engraved Roller Width Lim., Diff for Delicate Duller, Crush Effect
Hand Screen Width Limitations Bright Prints
Flat Bed Screen Wide width possible Bright Prints
Rotary Screen Wide width possible Bright Prints
W
A
S
H
E
S
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ADVANTAGES OF GARMENT PROCESSING
Antique
Creased
Dirty wash
Frayed
Sand washed
Whiskered
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Advantages of enzyme washing
● Soft handle and attractive clean
appearance is obtained without severe
damage to the surface of yarn.
● Inexpensive, low-grade fabric quality can
be finished to a top quality product by the
removal of hairiness fluff and pills, etc.
● Simple process handling and minimum
effluent problem.
● Better feel to touch and increased gloss
or luster.
● Prevents tendency of pilling after
relatively short period of wear.
● Can be applied on cellulose and its blend.
● Due to mild condition of treatment
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Acid Wash
►World famous, acid wash was first commercialized by the
Italian firm Rifle, at Inter-Jeans in 1986
►The process was actually patented by the Italian Candida
Laundry Company the same year.
►It consists of soaking pumice stones with chlorine and using
their abrasive power to bleach jeans into sharp contrasts.
►Also known as moon, fog, marble, ice and frosted.
Black Denim
►A denim weave using black yarn rather than indigo.
►Wrangler claims to have been the first to introduce black
denim back in 1950,
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Dirty Wash
► After stonewashing dyed with special chemicals, creating a
look in which the jeans will appear to be dirty.
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Sand Blasting
► Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive
material in granular, powdered or other form through a
nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas
of the garment surface
► Gives distressed/ abraded/used look.
► Garment is bleached.
► Done in washing machine with ozone dissolved in water.
► Bleached or faded also by using ozone gas in closed
chamber.
Total Linear Meter Points x 10,000 _________= Shipment Points per 100 m2
Total Inspected Meters x Cuttable Width (cm)