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Check in every day for your chance to win something special in our Baby Shower!
Martha Pullen and the incredibly talented VP of her company, Kathy McMakin, created today’s bonnet tutorial
just for our Baby Shower festivities. We’re longtime fans of the Martha Pullen Co. & Sew Beautiful Magazine,
and we hope you’ll take time to explore Martha’s site and newsletter. Both are full of sewing inspiration, excellent resources
and so much more. We were so thrilled to be a part of theSew Beautiful blog tour this summer, and couldn’t wait for another
collaboration with these talented women! Today’s bonnet is a beautiful pairing of classic techniques and contemporary style;
it’s sure to be a favorite baby gift.
You have the option to purchase a Bonnet Kit from Martha Pullen Co. which includes: 1/4 yard of 100% high quality cotton
fabric (in gingham and a floral & white batiste for the lining), spaghetti bias, and picot-edge double fold bias binding. There
are two colors available, Red Floral (K-SMS1R) or Green Floral (K-SMS1G), for $8 each.
Turn your sewing time into double the pleasure with this quick and simple reversible baby bonnet. Two coordinating fabrics
and two unique trims are used in this “twice as nice” fashion topper whose turned back brim frames baby’s head ever so
sweetly.
1. Bonnet Base: Choose a size and cut one rectangle from fabric #1, fabric #2 and if needed, the optional lining. The lining
will keep the two fabric patterns from shadowing through.
• 3 mos: 8” x 13”
• 6-12 mos: 9” x 14”
2. Ties: Cut two 3-1/2” x 20” from fabric #2.
Directions
All seams 1/4”
1. Fold each tie piece right sides together matching the edges.
3. Stitch the angled edge and trim away some of the seam allowance at the point.
4. Turn each tie to the right side using the Fasturn or a large safety pen.
To use the Fastturn, insert the large tube into the open end of the tie. Insert the wire with the “pigtail” end into the tube.
Catch the end of the tie with the “pigtail” by turning the wire.
Pull the wire, pulling the tie through the inside of the tube. Poke out the point with a point turner or dull pointed object.
Press well. If a safety pen is used, pin through the seam allowance and push the pen through side of the tie, turning to the
right side. Press well.
5. Fold and pin a pleat in the unfinished end of each tie. The pleated end should measure about 3/4”.
6. Place the lining, if used, on a flat surface. Place one of the bonnet base pieces on the lining right side up. Measure 1-1/4”
down each short side and mark with a water-soluble marker. Pin the ties beneath the mark. The long end of the bonnet base
closest to the ties is the front.
7. Place the second bonnet base, right side down, on top of the ties/first bonnet base. Match the edges and pin in place.
8. Stitch along the two short sides and across the back. Do not stitch across the front (the edge closest to the ties).
10. Turn the bonnet to the right side through the front opening and press.
11. Fold the back edge 1/2” to one side. Press. Pin.
12. Allow the picot-edge double-fold bias binding to extend 1/2” beyond the bonnet sides. Trim away any excess.
13. Unfold one edge of the binding and place, right sides together, to the unfinished edge of the bonnet. Pin or glue in place
with a water-soluble glue pen. Note: the glue in the glue pen is blue so it’s easy to see how much and where it’s applied but it
dries clear. It also washes out easily with water.
14. Stitch the binding to the bonnet in the crease of the binding.
15. Finger press the binding away from the bonnet and fold the extended ends to the inside. Fold the binding over the raw
edges of the bonnet to the previous stitching line.
Pin or glue…
18. Run the spaghetti bias through the casing. Tie each end into a knot. Even the ends of the spaghetti bias in the casing.
Find the center of the bonnet casing and stitch back and forth though the casing/spaghetti bias.
19. Gather the back of the bonnet and tie the spaghetti bias into a bow.