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Optimal Charging
Always begin with a thorough Home Energy AUDIT that shows all
the options for lowering the heat-gain & heat-loss, then after
reducing air infiltration, etc., have a room by room manual J
heatload calc performed. A reduction in equipment sizing will
usually greatly improve the duct system performance.
This is where the greatest savings in both heating & cooling will
accrue; this will help in the down-sizing of equipment.
There is a local TXV 1.5-Ton system that has very low airflow, actually
less than 200-cfm per-ton of cooling,
they're only checking the suction pressure & saying the charge &
everything is okay!
That system has a TXV & shows; 98-F condenser saturation temp & 97-
F liquid line temp near E-Coil,
a mere 1-F Subcooling, it's undercharged even with a mere 200-cfm
per-ton cooling load! Unbelievable, - but it's happening out there!
Check the Superheat & the Subcooling as outlined below and always
compare to the charging instructions that are with the equipment as
some use the
Approach Method & other methods may vary the operating figures &
Target figures vary somewhat from Super Heat & Sub Cooling
methods!
Those varied methods will usually be close to Super-Heat (SH) & Sub-
Cooling (SC) results. I would always use the SH & SC
method in conjunction with the mfg'ers method to trouble shoot the
refrigerant system.
Let's say with a TXV according to the Target Super Heat & your
collected data indicates a starved evaporator coil & a normal or slightly
off Subcooling,
even if you are using a Mfg'ers Approach Method do NOT automatically
believe that it is undercharged.
3. Take the difference between the above readings (Suction Line Temp
'minus' Gauge Saturation temp reading) = Superheat
Some Heat Pumps with TXV's are set at 7 to 9-F Super Heat because
they have Suction Line Accumulators to store any spill-over liquid,
which protects the compressor.
For TXV Subcooling, take the pressure of the liquid line note
the gauge saturation temperature.
Compare it to the actual temperature obtained near the same
point the pressure was obtained.
Thermostatic Expansion Valves (TEV / TXV) should be set for a
minimum 10-Degrees Superheat on A/C systems
Heat pumps with accumulators down to 7-F Super Heat.
Print this Two linked pdf pages: Target Super Heat Chart and
this Target Temperature Split for Airflow Chart
Outdoor Ambient Temp (OAT) 85-F; IDB 75-F; IWB 63-F or 50%-
RH.
Listed pressure is 316-psig, or 99-F CT; that is 99-F -85-F is a
14-F SPLIT.
(2)Get a low cost Testo Tester & ballpark figure actual BTUH &
EER - the information on it:
http://www.amazon.com/Testo-605-H2-H.../dp/B000774B6A
(3)Home owners; -a very low cost anemometer to get airflow
FPM Velocities, I'd get it:
http://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technol.../dp/B0002WZRKE
Get a low cost Testo Tester & ballpark figure actual BTUH &
EER - the information on it:
http://www.amazon.com/Testo-605-H2-H.../dp/B000774B6A
Room calls for 3,500-BTUH, using 450-cfm per/ton dry coil or 26.6666-
BTUH per CFM= 131.25-CFM.
I.E., 6" rd duct .6*6=36*.7854=28.2744sq.ins/144=0.19635-sq.ft.;
131.25-cfm / 0.19635-sq.ft= or 668.4-fpm velocity.
Required fan motor horsepower (hp) varies as to the cube of the rpm
speed:
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*You could ballpark the CFM using the static test & a air handler graph.
You could measure the CFM delivered to each room with a hood Alnor
Balometer,
it's usually the best instrument to use, but not cheap. Measuring the
air velocity is a bit tricky because you have to use the diffuser data
which you don't always have available.
A rough ballpark formula to get the CFM: CFM = (velocity in (FPM) Feet
per Minute times the square footage of the duct area, you have to
have & use the diffuser data & get velocity there -for operating
conditions.) Taking the manifold gage head pressure & gage
condensing temp, is important data. Coupled with a TH condenser
temp-reading, if the condenser gage pres/temp is too high
compared to the TH reading, there may be non-condensibles in
the system.
You can also use the condenser temp-split (it contains both Latent &
sensible heat) combined with the indoor data to plot the indoor CFM. I
was never good at math, but those equations have to balance, & they
do work!
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The A/C user need not know all the tech info, all they need to know are
a very few basic ways to identify that the system is not functioning
correctly so they can call for a pro-tech to properly trouble shoot
the system.
Now the reality is that you don't need a manifold gauge, - anyone can
Ballpark check the charge in respect to the indoor airflow with only a
little low cost MA-Line digital thermometer using some tubing
insulation on the sensor probe.
http://www.ma-line.com/HTML/L1_productmenu.html
You can't order it there.
However First, you check the discharge air temp off the outdoor
condenser, (that is the "Condensing Temperature (CT)," the higher the
SEER Rating the lower the outdoor normal temp/split above the
outdoor temperature will be.)
Then you either check the small liquid line tubing temp outdoors where
there is a tubing bend, or indoors where it bends to enter the plenum.
Subtract the small liquid line temp from the CT & you have the
Subcooling temp which varies some from mfg'ers, but will be Ballparke
8 to 12-F Subcooled.
The condenser temp (CT) above the outdoor temp tells you how much
indoor sensible & latent heat, & the 3 motor heats it is ejecting. The
indoor humidity level has the biggest effect, the higher the humidity
the hight the split.
Now, indoors the higher the humidity the lower the temp/split between
Supply-Air & Return-Air.
If blower wheel blades & all coils are relatively clean & the split is well
above 20-F, you have low airflow with a low heatload through the
evaporator coil.
If the indoor split is way below 18-F at 50% RH, you either have way
too much airflow or some problems in the functioning refrigerant
system.
The other test data you need is the system's CFM airflow through the
evaporator coil, then with software I have you can peg the BTUH the
operating unit is delivering under those conditions.
Add to that a low cost Magnehelic gauge to read static pressures to
compare with mfg'ers blower performance charts; plus a velocity
meter & you have a ballparked CFM to plug into for the BTUH.
First, check that there are NO air leaks in the Supply and Return Air
duct system.
Next, Check to see if Indoor Squirrel Cage Blower wheel blades are free
of lint or other build-up & Filter.
Before checking the refrigerant charge always check the actual
air flow with an anemometer & apply the math shown below!
Check for a dirty lint clogged Evaporator Coil fins then check the
Condenser Coil fins, check both coils on the air entering sides as well
as between the fins, -- clean if needed.
Take a look at the ductwork for proper sizing and for leaks, Check the
External Static Pressure (ESP), check the indoor Cubic Feet per
Minute (CFM) Airflow, then outdoor condenser discharge air
Temperature split (delta-T), then indoor Delta-T, then after 15 minutes
of run time before any charging adjustments are made. On smaller
tonnage equipment & in most climates that are not overly humid, I like
425 to 450-CFM per/ton of cooling on a wet coil.
In summer, Air conditioner & heat pump user's, this is a "Simple Easy
Safe Way" to Check an A/C's Thermostatic Expansion Valve
(TXV) metering system's refrigerant charge & any A/C's
Performance:
Record the outdoor temperature, then "Take a thermometer &
check the air temperature coming off the outdoor condenser."
E.g., condenser temp 110, line temp 100-F that is 10-F subcooling & 10
to 12-F is a normally charge system. If it's considerably less than 10-F
it could be low on refrigerant or need a Tech to check it; too far above
12-F it's overcharged, call a Tech, could also be a restriction in the
lines.
You should own a low cost digital pocket thermometer: Now the reality
is that you don't need a manifold gauge, - anyone can Ballpark
check the charge in respect to the indoor airflow with only a little low
cost MA-Line digital thermometer using some tubing insulation on the
sensor probe. An A/C supply Outlet might sell you one or inquire at
hardware stores! Saves money on needless A/C Service Calls!
http://www.ma-line.com/HTML/L1_productmenu.html
Take the ESP static pressure & compare to blower graph or chart, also
take the FPM duct velocity.
For Room Return Air balancing, i.e., -.01" IWC = approximately
-2.48 Pascals, which is a more precise easier incremental scale to
read.
One inch water column (IWC) equals rounded to > 250 pascals,
0.5" IWC is about 125 pascals; 0.25" WC = 62.5 pascals; 0.125 =
31.25 pa.;
1 / 250 pascals =0.0040322 *X's -2.50 pascals =
-0.01003657696655" IWC or make it - 0.01" IWC for low Return Air
room pressure differentials; - use pascals.
That would also be good for 2-ton; at 550-FPM velocity X's 0.2672541=
147-CFM X 30 = 4,410-BTUH each run X 6-runs = airflow for 26,460-
BTUH.
*Never sell units requiring more airflow than the duct system
will support! - Darrell udarrell
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Bulb location: Some Mfg’s have there preferences, but a good rule of
thumb is 10 or 2 O’Clock, away from headers and heat exchangers, on
a smooth clean surface.
Also, make sure the cap tube is on top (horizontal or vertical and
never upside down).
Flood back: Always make sure you have "the correct CFM airflow"
(clean coils,"
Clean fan blades & fans running on correct speeds and in the
right direction) before you try adjusting a valve.
In some situations, that could save you from cutting a hole in the
plenum.
Squirrel cage wheels with forward curved blades on residential
systems
unload when discharge air is blocked off too much & will overload
when there is no static pressure.
There is a preferable ESP range for each Air Handler blower design,
that ought to be listed on the blower; they vary at the point of
serious unloading.
If you amp-probe check enough of those blower motors, if the amp
draw is too low according to its rating, you can begin to tell that
the External Static Pressures (ESP) is too high.
Additionally, mfg'ers could list the amp draw at various design ESP
numbers, then we could amp-probe & know if it was too far above
the amp rating, a duct maybe off,
if amp reading is too low, it is time to check all static pressures &
delivered CFM to each room.
Back in the 1960's & 1970's there were a fair number of TXV
metering devices & some table top condensers' that had the fan
underneath blowing up through the coils.
Well, where there were cottonwood trees, nearby clothes dryer lint
vents, or a lot of leaves or other debris under the unit, the fan
motors would be blocked overload & burnout.
DISCLAIMER:
Any of the HVAC companies I list on any of my web pages have
nothing to do with the information I post on any of my Web pages
nor do I assume any responsibility for how anyone uses that
information.
All HVAC/R work should always be done by a licensed Contractor!
This information is only placed on these pages for your
understanding & communication with contractors & techs.
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*Video Checking Static - ESP| *Video 2 checking static - ESP View! Got DSL 11
Air Flow CFM of a very large Supply Air Register using a Testo 410 Vane Anem