index

ny rou

north

te 10

bouldering area
nine corner lake trail: 0.9 miles; +300 elevation

to caroga lake and gloversville

ny route 29A

paved pull-off parking

to little falls

map

from saratoga springs: 60 miles (1 hr) from albany: 70 miles (1.25 hr) from nyc: 230 miles (3.5-4 hr) from boston: 230 miles (3.5-4hr) from syracuse: ?? miles (1.75 hr)

areas

? peak

? peak

cliff area

meadows

middle earth

stonehenge

rock dam

camp site

nine corner lake

torn down out house

camp site

north

m i d d l e

e a r t h

distillery
page ??

group

rubble

group
page ??

tower

group
page ??

stoner group origin

page ??

beacon

group
page ??

group

page ??

150

north

to Optimus Prime rock dam

nine corner lake to parking

siphon
to cliff area

to tower group

to stoner group

razor bandaid

o r i g i n

residue

the wall

to lost sugar

gate troll
to dam

g r o u p

troll / gate boulders

to the wall boulder to the razor boulder

10

gate
3 1,2 4

9 8

5,6,7

troll

to lake and dam

1.

CBS*, V2 (SD) (FA: Andy Scheiderich) Start both hands on low edges right of the arete. Move up the ramped arete using holds on the left face and the arete. Top out at the high point on the left face. NBC (Nothin But Crystals), V7 (SD) (FA: Dave Buzzelli) Start LH on crimpy edge and RH on sharp crimp. Climb straight up the short bulge eliminating the sloper rail to the left. NBC Variation, V5 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start as above but use the sloper rail to the left. ABC, V1 (SD) (FA: Josh Mitchell) Start LH on sloper on the left arete and RH on a jug at the lip. Move up and right on big holds to pull over onto the slab.

2.

3.

4.

Everything In The Bible Is True*, V5 (FA: Garrett Koeppicus) Start with LH at the vertical seam at the lip and RH at the blocky sidepull. Climb straight over the lip and up the slab. Have a spotter for this one. The Gatekeeper**, V8 (SD) (FA: Andy Salo) Start with LH on sidepull crimp and RH on sloper pinch at crack. Slap powerful moves moving up and right to the jug. Finish as The Origin. Burly! Gatekeeper Direct, V8/9 (SD) (FA: ? ?) Start as above but match on the edge on the slab above the lip, eliminating the jug to the right and nish on Everything In The Bible Is True. Key Maker Project, Vhard (SD) Start left of The Origin under the roof. Climb directly out the roof to the jug. Finish as The Origin. The Origin***, V4 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start with RH at low jug on the right face and LH at a sloper pinch at the point on the shelf. Climb out the roof / arete to the jug. Move up the right face and arete above to gain the jug on the slab. Classic - one of the rst problems put up. Origin Variation Project, Vhard (SD) Start as the Origin but match at the big edge and make a big move right to gain The Cryptologist. Cryptologist**, V2 (FA: Garrett Koeppicus) Start with RH at high awkward sidepull and LH on sidepull at chest height closer to The Origin. Climb straight up to the lip and top out. Fun little problem! Project, Vhard (SD) Start at First but move up and left on very bad crimps to gain The Cryptologist.

5.

6. 7.

8.

9.

10. First, V3 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start RH at sidepull in big crack and LH on sloping edge on the face. Move up and right to latch the good holds just below the lip. Top out directly above or traverse the lip left to nish at The Cryptologist. First Variation, V2 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start both hands in the crack and move straight up.

photo

residue / siphon boulders

12

siphon

11

10

8 5

residue
9 1,2 4,6

to lost sugar (100)

1.

Residue Of Me**, V3/4 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start with LH at sidepull undercling on the left face and RH on good edge at the arete. Move right to an edge, then straight up to the jug using the arete. Top out by moving left around the arete. Cutting Time In Half*, V3 (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start LH at the high edge and RH at sidepull. Climb straight up to the lip then traverse the lip left to nish as Residue Of Me. Time Project, Vhard (FA: ? ?) Start LH at undercling and RH as above. Do the extra move, climb Cutting Time to the lip, then top out directly above onto the slab. Hard top out. Braille**, V3/4 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start LH at incut sidepull low on the left arete and RH on a good edge on the right face. Pull up and blindly feel the left face for a hold to gain the jug below the lip. Top out directly above. Open. Sit start at the small overhang on small edges. Climb straight up. Open. Climb the arete. Open. Start at the following problem but move left to nish on the previous problem. Residue Arete, V0+ (SD) (FA: Unknown) Start under the overhang on the arete. Climb the arete moving past the roof. Stay on the left face using the arete. Digweed, V1 (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start RH at sloper sidepull dish on the slab and LH at blockly sidepull near the bottom of the left arete. Climb up the slab using small edges and the arete. Digweed Variation**, V3 (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start as above but eliminate the arete. Dunfer, V1 (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start as Digweed but move right, matching the dish, then up the right side of the side using the small edges and the right arete. Dunfer Variation Project, Vmed: Eliminate the right arete.

2.

3.

4. 5. 6. 7.

8.

9.

10. Open. Climb the short arete. 11. Open. Climb the short bulging face. 12. Open. Climb the short bulging arete.

photo

wall

boulder

razor

13 12

11 2 10 9 8

1,V

the wall
3,V

7 5,6 4

1.

Recovery Room, V3 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start at the sharp jug on the Stitches Boulder. Move directly onto the Wall Boulder and top out as Longer Beard. Bearded Arnie**, V7 (SD) (FA: Andy Salo) Start RH on slopey edge and LH on edges on the slab. Move up the slabby arete to a good edge before topping out onto the face. Climbs way better than it looks. Bearded Arien, V4 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Do the rst two moves of Bearded Arnie, then move to the good edge on the slab. Grovel onto the slab and nish as Slabby. Not a good problem at all. Longer Beard, V7+ (SD) (FA: Dave Buzzelli) Climb Bearded Arnine but continue past the good edge to top out right of the point. sLabbY**, V0- (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start at a good edge on the slab just left of the start holds for Bearded Arnie. Move up and right on good edges. Finish at the ledge just above the Stitches boulder. Downclimb Slab, V0- (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start at the large sidepull of Heart Attack Man SD. Go straight up the slab on easy, long moves.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Heart Attack Man***, V2 (FA: Jon Felch) Start on high good holds on the arete and left face. Climb the arete to the lip and top out onto the slab above, staying off the right slab. Classic highball! Bring spotters and pads. Heart Attack Man SD, V5 (SD) (FA: Andy Salo) Sit start with both hands on the juggy sidepull on the right face. Lighter Burden, V8 (FA: Andy Salo) Start as Burden Of Priesthood but continue right to the arete and nish on Heart Attack Man. Lighter Burden SD Project, V9/10 (SD) Sit start at Thorazine and traverse right into the problem. The Burden Of Priesthood, V9 (FA: Dave Buzzelli) Start with both hands at high edges. Traverse right on slopey edges. Move straight up before the arete past a bad crimp to gain the lip and a hard top out onto the slab above. Burden Of Priesthood SD Project, V10/11 (SD) Sit start at Thorazine and move right into the problem. Omega Project, V11/12 (SD) Sit start at Thorazine and move right to a crimp and then do a big move up and left to a jug. Top out onto the slab above. Thorazine***, V8 (SD) (FA: Andy Salo) Start LH on blocky hold and RH on sloper edge with RF heelhook. Pull up to edge and move slightly left on sidepulls and edges to the lip and a balancy top out. Best problem at Nine!

6.

7.

8.

9.

10. Long Live Legos**, V5 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start LH on lower sidepull crimp and RH on good sidepull/scoop. Climb straight up the blunt arete past a good edge and slopey block to gain the right lip. Continue up the short arete above before moving right onto the slab above Thorazine. 11. Im The Zamboni*, V6 (FA: Scot Carpenter) Start LH on thin sidepull crimp very low and RH on sharp edge with LF high on the good ledge. Make a big RH move to an edge and a bigger LH move to gain the blocky jug. Top out above on juggy holds. Reachy powerful problem. Im A Spore Project, Vhard Start as Im The Zamboni. At the juggy ledge, traverse left to nish as Spores. 12. Spores**, V4 (FA: Dave Buzzelli) Start RH high on good edge or slot and LH on the arete. Move up the right face on edges to a high slopey top out. 13. Reckless Endangerment, V3 (FA: Tom Durant) Start LH good hold just above blocks which are off and RH at undercling at crack. Move up and slightly right to a good sloper. Match and move up and right to nish.

photo

razor / bandaid boulders

razor
1 3,4,5

bandaid
6

the wall

1. 2.

Healms Deep Project, Vmedium (SD) Climb up thin edges on the bulging face back in the cave. Stiches*, V5 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start both hands on the sharp jug. Move to the right arete and go straight up to the lip. The Wall boulder is off. Under The Knife*, V3 (SD) (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start LH at undercling on the rail and RH at a big sidepull undercling. Use the Stitches boulder for feet and crank straight up to the lip using a couple edges. Traverse the lip to the right and top out at the block. Knife Direct Project (SD) Start as above, but eliminate the Stitches boulder for feet. Razor Room Project, V11/12 (SD) Start at Dr. Stainless and move left to the slopey rail. Make a big move to a gaston crimp and then nish as Under The Knife. Stitches boulder is off. Dr. Stainless Project, V10/11 (SD) Start LH at sharp sidepull and RH at small edge/undercling. Move up face on sharp sidepulls. The Bandaid, V2 (FA: Arien Cartrette) Start with LH on slopey sidepull rail and RH on small edge below the lip. Make one move to a jug at the lip and top out. Full Bandaid Project*, V6/7 Start with same LH sidepull but RH really low on sidepull crimp. Set feet and deadpoint to the bad edge. Finish as above.

3.

4.

5. 6.

photo