Professional Documents
Culture Documents
SEA/RS
SEWING MACHINE
1764180
MODEL 385.
SEARS, ROEBUCK
AND CO.
Dear Cuatomer:
You
have just
invested
in a very
fine zigzag
sewing
machine. which
Before
using your
new Kenmore
machine,
and carefully
contains
instructions
on how to operate
Specific obtain
instructions
tension
adjustments,
cleaning,
oiling,
help you
unnecessary
service expense
for conditions
our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire.
appliance.
and serial
number
on the
nomenclature
as identified
on Page 3 of
Model No. 385. Serial No. Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL
IS A CENTER NEEDLE,
4.
Never
operate
the of lint,
appliance
with
any machine
air
opening
blocked. controller
ventilation accumulation
S,
openings
of the sewing
and foot
6.
7.
where
aerosol
(spray)
products
are being
used or where
oxigen
is being administered. turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove
DAN G ER1
An appliance this should appliance cleaning. unplug and before
2.
8,
To reduce
when
unplug
by
pulling
on cord.
To unplug,
not
the
immediately
fingers
away
from
all
moving
parts.
Special
care
is required
Always 15 Watts.
unplug
before
relamping.
Replace
bulb
with
same
type
rated 11.
machine proper
Always
3.
Do
not
reach
for
the
appliance
that
has fallen
into
water.
Unplug 12.
needle to break. Do not use bent Do not pull needles. while causing off stitching. it to break. ("O") when needle, making changing any adjustment needle, threading in
immediately, 4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or other or be pulled liquid. into a tub
13.
or sink,
into water
sewing area,
machine such
To
reduce
fire, electric
shock,
needle
as threading
bobbin,
and the like. from the electrical any other outlet when
15.
Close attention is necessary when this
Always removing
machine or when
lubricating,
marking manual.
user servicing
to be used as a toy.
adjustments
mentioned
in the instruction
is used by or near children. only for its intended recommended use as described in this manual. as contained in
by the manufacturer
3.
appliance if
cord
properly,
it has been
or damaged, authorized
for examination,
electrical
or mechanical
adjustment,
TABLE
, ;.'( J_,v '_" ILJil IVt/\t'lili'_l L A Portable case or Cabinet is Available .............. 2_3 4 2 Locate and Identify the parts .................. Identify the Accessories ........................
OF CONTENTS
Darning ................................. Straight Stretch ............................ Zigzag Stitches ........................... Basic Zigzag ............................. Satin Stitch ............................. Applique ............................... Bar Tacking ............................. Monogramming .......................... Embroidery ............................. Sew a Button ............................ Overcasting Stitch ......................... Rick-Rack Stretch ....................... Three-Step Zigzag ......................... Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ Blind Hemming ............................ Lace Work ................................ Buttonhole Making ........................ Learning to Sew Buttonholes ................. Built4n System ........................ Using Buttonhole Attachment ............... Sew in a Zipper .......................... Shell Stitching ............................. Two-Point Shell Stitching ...................... Smocking ................................ Stretch Patching ............................ Fagoting Stitch ............................ Herring Bone Stretch ......................... Elastic Stretch Stitch ......................... Box Stitching .............................. Two-point Box Stitch ........................ Overedging Stitch ........................... Decorate with Geometric Patterns ................ SECTION SECTION 4 b PERFORMANCE PI{OBLEMS When to Do When .........................
('AF_E FOH Y()LJt_ k/IIkUHHgE
Set Up the Machine ......................... Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Foot Control Use .......................... Set the Pressure Dial ........................ Setting Spool Pins .......................... Adjust the Presser Foot Lever .................. Thread Cutter ............................
Accessory Storage Box ...................... Free Arm Sewing: the Removal Extension Table Know What the Presser Feet Will Do . _ .......... Check Your Presser Foot .................... Change the Presser Foot ..................... Presser FootTypes ...................... Choose Your Needle and Thread ............... Check Your Needle ........................ Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length To Change Your Needle ..................... Prepare the Bobbin ........................ To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine Wind the Bobbin ......................... insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder Prepare Your Top Thread .................... Thread Your Needle ....................... Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ................. Adjust the Top Thread Tension .............. Stitch Selector ............................. Stitch Width Control ......................... Stitch Length Control ........................ Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. Reverse Stitch Control ........................ Starting Practical To Sew Itl}Stitch ............................ .";I I li:|tl Chart !; ...................... ! _ \};1_ Chart
.....
......... .........
(Ht\t{I
Straight Stitches .......................... Straight Stitch ........................... Use the Seam Guides ....................... Turn a Square Corner ...................... Use the Darning Plate ...................... Topstitching ............................
Replace the Light Bulb ....................... Clean the Bobbin Holder ...................... Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs .............. Oiling the Machine .......................... PARTS LIST ...................................... INDEX ..........................................
58 58 59 59 60--61 62_63 1
SECTION
1.
Sears
option
can be stored
Take
up Lever
Tension
Plate
Cutter
Needle
Plate
Extension (Accessory
SECT
ON
1.
Hand
Wheel
Presser
Foot
Stitch
Snap on Button
Stretch
Stitch
Adluster
Foot
Control
P)u_
Ctlnnector
Nomenclature
Plate
Buttonhole
opener
Needle set
Lint
brush
Darning
plate
Small
........
screw dr_ver
Spool
\
pin
felt
J
loot % loot Satin stitch
Zipper
foot
Siidin 9 buttonhole
Buttonhole
foot
But tonhole
plateguide
Buttonhole
templates/'
SECTION _2.
Set Up the Machine Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Foot Control
Use
supply
Power
4.
Plug connector Machine plug
Push
the light
switch light.
to turn
The which To
foot
control
regulates
the
speed
at
on the power
you sew. speed, foot. release your foot presgently press down with
increase
SAFETY
into your is
NOTE:
inserting be sure
the the
plug power
Your
machine will
speed,
switch
t.
Check Volt
your
outlet
switch is turned on. If you are or stop sewing, turn off the switch to prevent injury to
sure slightly.
NOTE:
The
foot
control
is sensitive
and
OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
2.
Insert outlet,
It will supply
only
3.
Insert
plug into
"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other), To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way, If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way." "Foot Controller
a scrap
your
sewing
Model YC-482P or YC.530 for use with Sewing Machine Models x, 38&1584x x x, 385.1664 x x x, 385.1754 x x x, 385.17526x x x, x, 385.17928 x x x, 385.17924 x x x, 385.18836 x x x, x x, 385.17822x x x, 385.17828 x x x, 385.18830 x x x and - represents numbers 00O through 999." 5
385.1778x x x, 385.1684x x 385.1764x x x, 385.1884x x 385.17922x x x, 385.16816x 385.17026x x x. xxx (For U.S.A. market only)
"SECTION! 2:.'-
_P__U
R :MACPI _ E__
Setting mark
control aligning
inside the face cover plate. on the dial with the groove as follows,
most sewing applique basting, Also and Cut-Out sewing chiffon, work lace, organdy (with more and other stretch). lightweight fabrics.
for velours
and knits
NOTE:
The it.
pressure
dial
should
pressure,
so
the machine
is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use
SECTION
,2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Adjust
Thread
Cutter
position \ position
- High _osition Normal up position r foot You thread handy don't need a pair of scissors to cut the sewing. Just use the cutter. are cut the proper length for
The
spool
pins
for
holding
the to
spools
of thread
to feed thread
the machine. To use, pull spool storage. felt on up the the spool pins. pins. Place the for
Push down
the nextseam.
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot
SECTION
2: _,.'_RI_i=_',/_I_QIJR!MACH|I_I_EJ_'J_J'NG_ (Continued)
Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table Your To remove: sewing machine can do free arm sewing. This feature makes sewing easy for:
To Remove (for free-arm 1. The lid open Sewing of the accessory you. are conveniently located storage box lifts
Table
index
toward
2.
accessories
Pull gently toward you. The extension table will snap out.
to reinforce on to
pockets,
plackets or homebunching
waistlines garments
the needle.
Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.
SECTJON
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Stitching
pant
legs,
or any circular
Sewing etc.
buttons
on sleeves,
waistbands,
SECTION
Know
2.
the
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
Will Do
FOR SEWING
What
Presser Feet
Check Your
Use
Change the Presser Foot the correct presser Chart foot for the stitch you wish to sew. with Consult the
Tile Presser feet are an important what Your each foot presser does in order
to use thefn effectively. by a Foot is seldom the foot Holder. Each presser foot merely
Stitch
Pattern
and the
detailed
directions
for sewing
the various
foot
presser feet.
or attach
To Remove:
To Attach:
To
Snap Off:
To Remove: Turn the driver. the screw toward Use the the back of
To Attach:
1. Match holder the hole in the foot hole in 2. screw into 3. 1. Raise toward the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel .
machine.
large
screw
you. foot. button on the hack of the foot holder The presser
Raise the presser Press the snap-on foot will drop off.
10
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Zigzag Foot
A:
Zigzag foot
H:
Straight
foot
To Snap On
stitching
Uses:
Zigzag stitching (see page 31), Bar tacking (see page 33), Button sewing (see page 35), Rick-rack stretch (see page 36), Three-step zigzag (see page 37), Overcast stretch (see page 38), Lace work (see page 40), Two-point shell stitching (see page 5_00), Smocking (see page 51), Stretch patching (see page 51), Fagoting (see page 52), Herring bone stretch (see page 52), Elastic stretch (see page 53), Box stitching (see page 53), Two-point box stitch (see page 54), Overedging stitch (see page 54).
Topstitching
To Snap On the Presser Foot: 1. Ptace the presser zontal under holder. 2. Lower lock the presser foot holder to pin the on foot the so the horifoot of lies just the foot
groove
the presser
foot in place.
NOTE :
If
you
do foot
not
hear
the
down holder
until
11
SECTION
2.
:_,I_RE'_.,__='__WIN_
Sliding
E; S_idlngbuttonholefoot
Zipper
Use
this
foot It
for
buttonholes to
of
built
m your
This
foot
can be set to sew on each side of The edges of the foot guide the
measure
your zipper.
zipper and keep the seam straight. (see page 42). Uses: Zipper application (see page 48).
stitch (see page _3_2), (see page 33), (see page 34), (see page 50), stitching
Buttonhole
Applique
decorative
12
SECT ONe2
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Buttonhole
Buttonhole
foot
Your Use this foot buttonhole Uses: when making buttonholes with
depends
on the fabric
In your
color-coded
attachment
Buttonhole
making
medium-heavy
on these fabrics has a larger thread.) fabrics and decorative lop thread hole for
topstitching weight
heavy
stitching
on these fabrics
I. 2.
for barbed
needle fabrics.
Always smooth
buy
a good
quality
thread.
It should
resist
tangling
and be strong,
and consistent
in thickness.
13
_N_
p RI::PAR E_ O U _MA_II_m_Q.'IFL_ y
EWJ._.
Fabric,
Needle,
Thread
and
Stitch
FABRIC
THREAD
SIZE
11 -ORANGE
per
Weight Cotton
: Blends.
14,RED
Knits, Linen,
Su_tings,
Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy. Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Gaba,dine, Lealher Woo! Flannel. VeJve_s,
SO Mercerized
Cotton Heavy-Duly
14-RED Or 16 PURPLE
Core/Cotton
RPavy
3 (8 stitches inch)
per
NOTE:
bar to the
poi_ towar4
hand
16 PURPLE 18 GREEN
you .... 1. Loosen toward 2. 3. Remove Insert with 4. 5. the you. the needle the new by pulling into it downward. the you. needle clamp needle clamp screw by turningl{
needle
Push the needle up as far as it will go. Tighten large box. the needle screwdriver clamp from screw firmly your accessory with the storRt
14
FOR SEWING
Gently
push
down
on
the bobbin
cover
plate
and
slide
Bobbin windingspindle
you.
as shown.
1.
Put
your
spool
of
thread
onto
spool
pin.
with
the
thread
winding
in the direction
shown. 2. Pull the clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you
the bobbin. thread the from spool through on bobbin winder tension disc as shown, so that the thread comes
threaded
bobbin
the bobbin
winding
spindle
out on top. 5. 6, 7. Push the bobbin Holding When winder spindle to the right until the foot stop it clicks.
depress filled,
the machine
the bobbin. 8. 9. 10. 1 I. Slowly start the machine winder again and wind spindle the thread until the bobbin stops.
the thread.
15
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHIN6;.!P-O_fNG
(Continued)
Holder
@
1. Put holder counter the bobbin so that into the the thread bobbin feeds
2.
about you
inches
of
thread
3.
pull the
the back
thread of _ the
clockwise machine
4.
through
the tension
clockwise
(left).
@.
the slot
it down slightly over t_ Allow about 4 inchesl to show above the nee_
Threading
chart
is located
behind
Threading rt
16
SECTION
Prepare Your Top Thread
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
_r_
--0--
you.
down
into
the
tension
area and
then
around
the
check spring The numbered steps above follow the numbers 3. 4. Dotted loops lines and then show places tight. where the thread 5. 6. Thread Thread is pulled Firmly Draw draw thread on the illustrations.
take-up
right
to left.
the thread
bar thread
guide.
front
NOTE:
with
threading.
17
SECTION 2.
Prepare Your
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR_SEWING
(Continued)
foot loosely
lever. in left
2.
thread up by pulling
3.
Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear.
handwheel turn.
18
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Adjust
Tension Choose the Correct will Tension: depend on; of the fabric
T_ p Siitp
Tlqht_rl
The is too
lop
lhrpsII
licIht
Top of
_ide fabric
TOp side _._
Stitch straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of
The apD_rs iliidersi_'Je tOP thread on the of th_ The
_Op_3_
ho_ll_rl
Oil
lhI_ad
I_IP
as shown look
to show detail. and back, you will notice that there are no
at the
tabric,
gads, that
each stitch
is smooth
and even. the higher the number, the tighter the top
top thread
tension,
is too
thread of
bobbin top
The bottom
of the will
of the stitch
feel bumpy.
the stitch
feel bumpy
19
SECTION 2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINEFOR
For Zigzag
Stitct_l zigzag stitch, the top the bobbin will threads will not show on the top side on the bottom adjust side. your See top
_0 Stitch
threads appearance.
below tension.
the correct
this appearance,
Sel_tnf
control control
you select. is indicated of stitches by the red indicat_ is selected when th+
desired
indicator control
row
stitch ]_I_ _ide of gabrlC lop side of Fabric Top side of Fabric
position.
NOTE:
To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out01 fabric when selecting a stitch.
patterns are color+coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch lengl_
Stitch control.
ZONES
r4r!!t!ir_, r+_f! -_i!lht C(/r rler _'iqzag toq_,lh_r top side of wil! _rl of each Dull Pie Side (d hat>tic
Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitct_es Geometric Decorative Stitches Built-in Stretch Buttonhole Stitches Making
Bottom side of Fabric Too Loose -The rOD thread will loop through bottom side of fabric and will be pulled almost together.
Bottom
side of Fabric
Just Right Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing conditions.
lilbrlcs.
20
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
V ! 2
Widlh 3 4
V Ler_gth
l Stretch Slitch
/
stitch
width
control
regulates
the
length
control
regulates
the
of stitch, setting.
4-
--
stitch
the number,
stitches
the number,
the longer
the
w ,
balance If design
the stitches
for appearance
sake.
0 means no feed. seems open left, "-" design. design toward appears "+" to be closed turn stitching until as in the is as adjust until like the illustrations the design control looks slightly like the To select Stretch Stitches, Stitch. select decorative or built-in sure set this
Smocking stretch
to
the
control
at Stretch When stitches buttonhole that lengh Stitch". Study yellow around are stitch to the you
NOTE:
you
(green) (blue),
make
right
hand
illustrations,
control
_L
Rickrack stretch
you desire.
the
orange,
recommended length
zones
of
stitches
21
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
new Kenmore
sewing
Reverse
each time you sit down 1. Inspect the needle. for the fabric
be straight,
properly
set and sharp on the point. needle more easily than fabrics
It should frequently.
si
and thread
being used.
Do not
of the n_
fabrics made of synthetic 2. Before seam. 3. To reverse stitch, trol during sewing. again.
5.
blends tend to dull the needles on the machine, Hold see that
placing
the material
the ends
on to threads during
the sewing
you plan to use. The fabric suitable to your with the bulk fabric.
should be double
thickness.
AdjL
hold
down
this con4.
and tension
should
under
of the material
to
right
on the 5/8"
seam marking
the
The
more
pressure you
put
on the foot
control,
the faster l
tacking
and end of the seam. point. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a_
at its highest
the fabric
of the needle.
the normal
When turning
always
turn it toward
you.
22
SECTION3.
Practical Stitch
Stitch STRAIGHT
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Chart
Stitch Selection Foot and Other Straight Attach. Needle Check Chart on p. 14 Thread Tension Stitch Length Orange Zone Stitch Width Uses
Refer to Page
darning,
2-6
I I I I
%
Darning plate Zipper foot Straight
zippers,
topstltching,
28 - 30, 48 - 49
STRAIGHT STRETCH
III lu III In
%
Zigzag
2-6
fabrics,
good
3O
ZIGZAG
%
RICK-RACK STRETCH Zigzag
3-8
Orange Zone
1_5
Finish edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique, monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks.
31 -
35
t %
BLINO HEM STITCH Zigzag
2-6
2-5
Decorate
garments
with
one
row
or several
36
Check Chart on p, 14
2-6
Orange Zone
2 -- 3
seams.
39
23
SECTION
3.
LEARN
Refer to Page
and other
Zigzag
2_6
3_5
Use
for
ski
pants stretch.
38
garments
<, <,
THREE STEP ZIGZAG <
.>
%
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
l
Check Chart on p. 14
2-6
0.5-
; Use for
finishing
seams.
37
SMOCKING STITCH
%-
2-6
3-5
Use in smocking
or as a decorative
stitch.
51
SHELL STITCH
4_9
Orange Zone
3_5
Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings, Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam, Oo shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
5O
SERGING
Zigzag
3-6
%
24
3_5
Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings. Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam. Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
38
SECTION
3.
Stitch Selection
Foot
Attach,
Needle
Thread Tension
Stitch Width
Refer to Page 53
%
Zigzag
Check Chort on p. 14
3_8
3_5
ELASTIC STRETCH
3~6
<
%
Zigzag
3-5
elastic.
53
FAGOTING
%
STRETCH PATCHING Zigzag
Check Chart on p. 14
3~8
0.5_2
52
'1 %
<
2-6
quilting,
51
<
Zigzag
C_
Check Chart on p. 14
3_8
Orange Zone
3-5
Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie. This stitch can also be used as a single overlock stitch as well.
5O
25
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
Foot and Other Attach. Needle Thread Tension 2-6 Stitch Length Yegow Stretch Stitch Position Stitch Width 3_5
Uses
Refer
to Page
Zigzag
%
TWO POINT BOX STITCH L. Zigzag
for
blankets,
table-
52
Check Chart
3 _ B
Orange Zone
3-5
seams
54
on p.14
c
r _
OVEREDGE STITCH
Zigzag
Check Chart on p. 14
3_8
O_nge Zone
3_5
54
DECORATIVE GEOMETRICS
Check Chart on p. L4
3 _ S
Green Zone
3_5
55
SATIN
STITCH
Satin
Check Chart on p. 14
3 N 8
0.5
_ 1
2_5
Use for applique work, also as decorative finish for placemats, blankets, collars, cuffs and pockets.
32
26
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Stitch
Stitch Selection
_qKIIo
Thread Tension
Uses
Refer to Page
2~6
42 _ 43
D
Buttonhole Check Chart on p. 14
2~6
and keyhole
44 _ 47
%
97
SECTION
3.
Straight Stitches
Straight Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch width
coT:: .
J CornF'rfflG qtJl_te J
seam guides
on
the needle
are engraved sewing always with set the straight the avoid stitch breaking stitch width the 8. 7. At the beginning may want and end of seam, you to reverse to
to 0 to
lock the stitch. Raise the presser the fabric. foot and remove Turn a Square Corner
Raise the presser foot. Raise position. Place to the edge of the fabric line is next the needle to its highest 9.
a stitching plate
guide (5/8"
on the most
needle Best obtained stitch foot will sewing with foot, but also results. results the the are 4. common). Draw straight zigzag provide 5.
6.
the back
To turn a square corner fabric 1. edge: Stop needle toward facing stitching by you you
and lower the presser foot. Press the foot control. Hold guide the fabric it along loosely the and gently line, so
acceptable
and
lower hand
guide
that it feeds naturally. [)o n=ot for_ce t.he fa_)ric or try pull it tight. to
guide, to
presser
seam guide the presser foot and begin in the new direction.
28
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Here's How 1.
Lower the presser foot. of the of fabric the next
when Plate
you covers
sew,
you
want
to
control
the
fabric touch
the feed
edge
presser
Plate: holes In the in the Darning darning plate, Plate these match holes the holes in the to the H: Straight foot at the plate The Stitch Topstitching in the following ways: your garment and tts Uses emphasizes and keeps the lines of and Stretch Stitch
3.
foot. Evenly edge to guide the fabric produce 5/8" along this are slightly
needle
right of center.
1.
an even from
row of
topstitehing
the edge.
2.
plate
into
mark.
the darning
plate
seams
edges flat and crisp. (see page 30), Sewing (see page 35) Accent two suits or of blouses with one or the
rows
topstitching
around
lapels or collars.
29
SECTION Darning
3.
LEARN
oro
Stitch width
1 2 3 4
Stitch length
control position yellow
adjust)
2
1.
Put
the
darning
plate
on
the
needle plate
2. Stretch Stitch 3.
presser 10),
foot stretch
and
foot
holder between Stretch Stitch Stretch H: Straight foot knits. The Stitch This stitch and Its Uses is the stretch variation of fabrics curved garments deal of clothes). This stitch can also be used for The actually sewn, forward (sometimes action" give stretch stretch but and is stitch does net as it is being stitched back a in motion "reverse it will stretches a topstitching on all fabrics, stitching was developed fabrics and other
fabric
Darning
plate
to be used on stretch
you
start darning. 4. Lower speed. 5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until the presser bar and sew at a slow the straight stitch, especially developed for knits and stretch fabrics.
well on * on any
area.
called
stitch), the
so that fabric
when
7.
When you finish darning, remove the darning plate and replace foot holder and foot.
instead
of breaking.
3O
3.
!ii il
Here's How There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch
Stretch Stitch
Satin Stitch page 32, Applique Work page 33, Bar Tacking page 33, Monogramming page 34, Embroidery page 34, Button Sewing page 35, Overcasting page 36.
A: Zigzag foot The Stitch The your for zigzag machine. and Its Uses stitch is one versatile of the most stitch hem-
common
and most
stitches on
and darnwork
or as a decorative
31
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Stitch length
CIos, _ It3 0
I or
and Ifs Uses stitch is a versatile stitch, but and often it can also Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want tight satin to experiment stitch on a fragment some light of the fabric weight is especially attractive fabrics, you are planning to use. Too may pucker Here's How
decorative
32
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Bar Tacking
Set the Machine
r
con ro,2,o
Stitch width
1 2 3 4 control
control 2 to 5
Stitch length 05 to t Baste joiner) Stitch sure the (or fuse with pieces the falls iron-on fabric
Stitch length control 05 to t This satin poi_lts pockets Stretch Stitch stitch stitch of is similar and strain to a very short
is used to such
reinforce or
applique along
as corners
Stitch
edge of the applique. When sewing corners, the fabric. pivot the lower the needle Raise the presser fabric to the right A: Zigzag foot
or left.
33
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
HA
Fop thread tension control 2 to6
Here's
How
Here's How
1.
plate o_
No pre_er foot
(see page 29), foot the holder stitch (see page 10). width as desired
2.
Back
the
fabric
with
paper or
I I
JJ4
2. 3.
Remove Adjust
interfacing,
Stretch Stitch
3.
Stretch Stitch 4.
(see page 21 ), Draw the design with tailor's chalk. Stretch dery needle. 6. Lower the presser foot lever to the hoops fabric and on to the fabric
F:
Satin foot
StitCh
4.
Darning
plate_
as necessary
5.
between place
embroithe
under
5.
Holding hand,
the top
thread
in your wheel
left
rotate
toward
thread through
to
draw
the
to the surface
of the fabric. 8. Using the a medium marked speed, stitch uiding along the
outline, by hand.
fabric carefully
34
SECTION
3.
Sew a Button
S_t the Machine
Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control Any number (not necessary to adjust) Use the darning plate 1. Match foot.
2,
for button
sewing
To
cut Bring
the center
of the button
the hole
and wind
it around
the stitch
width
so that needle will drop in each hole. in place. that needle will enter either hole of the
3.
and knot.
4.
35
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
Rick-Rack Stretch Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5
Stitch width
1 2 3 4 ,
"Op thread tension
control 3 to 5
control [_ Io tt
Stitch length
;o_toro, orange
Helpful Start
The Stitch
of your
stitches
tangled:
A: Zigzag foot
A:
Zigzag foot
garment
construction
project.
36
SECTION3.
LEARN
THE S:FITCHES
Three-Step
Zigzag
Set the Machine Stitch width control5
1234
Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 Seam Finishing Place the fabric so that the right Stretch Stitch Guide stitches (Overcasting) under the presser foot be slightly inside Mending Position that the tear under will the needle both so
the stitching
catch
sides.
hand side of the presser foot. the work so the right hand
Zigzag foot
J
Its Uses zigzag zigzag basic is a combination You may use you It is everywhere z,gzag elasticity, zigzag. is especialstitch. and
stitch.
strength,
than a regular
z_gzag stitch
mending sewing securely repairing finishing straight seams tears. patches smoothly and
37
SECTION
3.
LEARN THESTITCHES,
Stitch length
control
I_O';I tl(_rl
yellow
str etc'h stitch Here's Place How the raw edge of the fabric to
Here's.How Place foot the fabric the under stitches the are presser made
so that
over theedge.
just short of the outside Stretch Stitch Or, place seam, A Zigzag foot and Its Uses can be used for finish. and finished m sewing a after. Raw or worn The Stitch This The one you stitch seam can be your fabric trim
NOTE:
using
stretch
then
seam
garments further he Stitch Use this and Its Uses stitch when you want need for where a to
prevents
overcast
seam with
an overcast _s formed
needle,
which
effectively stitches.
1/4" to you
It can be swimwear,
prevents skipped
medium
heavyweight want
garments
that
a narrow elastic
seam. swim
is also great
for making
wear.
38
3.
Set
the
Machine
1/4"
Woi_
\
\
1. Stretch Stitch 2.
Finish
hem an,/way
you desire.
(See overcrasting
page 36).
Measure,
hem and pin. fabrics, you may need a double side out) on the edge fold. to be stitched, as shown, leaving 1/4of the finished hem edge
NOTE:
A Zigzag foot
For light
3.
Fold
the material
(bottom
showing. 4. Place stitch 5. After garment should under just catch presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag
the fold
of the garment. hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches.
hemming,
press both
39
SECTION
3,
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Lace Work
\,
Stitch length
Control l
Stretch Stitch
YY
Lace adds a fanciful, and lingerie. with lace, under at least and topfeminine Table more touch linens elegant to and when Turn 5/8". blouses pillows trimmed become raw edge of fabric Place lace underneath stitch using stretch blind hem stitch. Trim excess fabric close to stitching.
Zigzag
foot
4O
SECTION Buttonhole
Learning your
3.
Making
to Sew Buttonholes Kenmore You sewing may machine you have two system system. methods or you ; of making may use the Always use. make a practice buttonhole with on a scrap of fabric you will use. where buttonholes are you plan to Tips on buttonholing
With
buttonholes. snap-in
use the
built-in
automatic
buttonhole
attachment
the button
Always Choose 1. the buttonhole bottonholes this style (rectangular). cuffs, belt slots or where you will placed.
in area of garment
Built-in Choose
interfacing loosen
need only
fabrics,
_J
2. Round Choose vests, end this jackets buttonholes style for (Template series of No. 213504005, 213505006). blouses,
buttonholes
on dresses,
or coats.
3.
(Template
shank.
41
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Stitch control
length
+-._,L",_,4
I. a. Carefully
mark
the
buttonhole
the
slider
(A) mark
toward mark
you (B).
at
the top
(C) on the
Change foot.
marking
you{
markings
on on
the your
Stretch
Stitch
foot
c.
,, ,L_q
'
Insert the garment under the foot with the buttonhole marking running toward you. c. NOTE:
at the
left
shteh
t.
Sli(lin
9 buttonhole
f+i
Adlust,ng Depending may derisory alter within the Stitch upon the the in Density your fabric or your you stitch buttonhole dial. turn the dial _.) q"'_'_ '+,r he._vy ::; +,h,,r _ _ :! : buttonholes, buttonhole blue owT_ preference
The
are engraved
in centimeters.
length
density,
2.
density,
turf!
the
dial
',htth_+_
ha)rl<
_ t " 4
toward NOTE:
h,, ,lab,
,_
make
a prachce fabric
butyou
length.
42
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
selector
at
1,1
selector reach
at the
I'1 back of
a.
selector
at
J_l
7.
4
the
and
cut
the
open
buttonhole storage
in your
accessory
sliding
buttonhole reverse(
foot [_*
and sewin
43
SECTION
Buttonhole
3.
LEARN
Making
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
Buttonhole
Style
and Size
attachment machine
how the
buttonhole
attachment
system.
Ru ttonf_ole
Gl_ide s_ot
[_uttonhole
MeaStl marking
rerflerl
Template
Catch
Buttonhole
wide
plate
NOTE:
of
buttonhole
on
template
show
actual
of
to be sewn. by matching
You will
the button
Guide
on the template.
[ ever
Pin_
Gear
44
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
' "Top
thread 2
tension l=_ G
<I
Stitch length 2
"_
zJ'"
ftook
R_C tSt]]lJ hlr h I][t_
I (:c_ntrol
I_Js'
IIb]t'
contrOIo_j_
1.
a. b. c.
Remove
the extension
table.
Raise the needle to its high,.=st position. Remove the foot thread holder. out about 3" straight back toward rear of machine.
Stitch
d. e. Helpful You =60 bobbin NOTE: Hints can _ obtain --80 thread. It is advisable fabric knits can obtain a wider the to use a blue needle and when light best results to use as f. g.
of base plate
weight
threads
Release lever.
synthetic
cutting stitch
at 1.5 instead
45
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
/-Buttonhole
guide plate
Top thread
Template
Gear _,_
Slot
GiJid
@
I
',\
\
Starting
_)[)qgl l
plate
2.
a.
When hole
the template
with
button-
3.
a. b.
b.
Pull
sliding
hole size you have chosen c. Insert into gear of base plate
is at the setting mark. into slot of template and fit guide block c.
The lever can be used to change Pull the bobbin you while thread holding and top
toward
threads
Leave 3 to 4 inches
of thread.
46
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
5.
a. b, c.
foot.
the machine
to do the work
by itself.
to guide the fabric.) when the needle returns base plate, pull the to the position lever toward where you it begins, the
To release
and lift
Adjusting
a. b.
your
buttonhole garment
carefully the
your
machine,
c.
d
edge with
Stitch control _2
length 4
Pierce
of the buttonhole.
for
heavy
fabrics
NOTE
If line
you
want
your
buttonhole with
to
be
1/2
inch
from
the garment
edge,
1__"
4 " @ Coar_estitches
each time
a buttonhole,
Stretch Stitch
47
SECTION
3.
Sew in a Zipper
Fabric Preparation : together zipper lock the
Zipper tape
Put the top sides of the fabric and sew to Use the the end of the to opening. stitches. Sew length at "3". the zipper opening and top with thread reverse
Stitch width
_(1/8")
/Zi_lper
te_th
at "4"
End
of
()pening
To Sew: 1.
Reset stitch length at 2 and top thread tension at 2 to 6, Fold back the left seam allowance as shown.
Turn under the right seam allow fold.
4.
len_h 5.
Attach
the presser
bar to the right foot. foot of on the top the zipper the fold
pins on the zipper Lower side at so that the zipper the the bottom
, 'L
_,f f,qt_r i_
5.
Stretch Stitch
[upedge of fabric
ance to form
a 1/8"
and
the
E: Zipper foot
3.
Place the zipper teeth next to the 1/8"fold and pin in place.
where the
To attach
the zipper
foot:
hold
the
,--.4_
attach
the presser
pins
on the zipper
on the zipper
48
SECTION3.
LEARNTHESTITCHES
i
/ Top side of fabric
J
8. 9.
Open Lower
10.
Close fabric
the top
and
turn
the
11.
the
zipper
foot
and
about
2" from
presser
the left
pins on the zipper Stitch tom 13. Turn guide teeth, Stitch zipper across and
the
needle
into
the
fabric
the
bot16.
and raise the presser foot. Remove open 17. Lower the basting stitches and
of the zipper, the the corner foot and along the continue the fabric to
zipper and
49
SECTION
3.
LEARN
Shell Stitching
control
Stitch width 3 to I 2 3 4
,4!
_: " ":"S_
Stitch length
control
ZOne
i_rarlge
He re'1;.H_ w o 1. For best effect: set the desire. you may need to tighten slightly. to just
A: Zigzag foot
This
stitch
can
also
be
used
as a
,
F
,,, It ii,
NN
Satin stitch
stitch
as well.
Stretch Stitgh
edge of the
foot
it zigzags.
fabric.
soft silky
in any direction.
of shell
stitching
are called
be used on
scalloped lingerie
tucks
blouses
5O
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Set
the
Machine
Stitch length
stretch pOSltiOrl Stdch
Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position The Stitch For knees. and its Uses worn out elbows or
,1 _3
patching
Stitch
With straight
the
stitch stitching
length lines
at
"4".
sew apart
3/8"
across the area to be smocked. Knot the gathers the stitch the bobbin threads along Secure Sew one edge. the the threads decorative stitches. Pult the at
threads
and distribute
evenly. end.
other
between
thread gathering
51
SECTION
3.
LEARN
Fagoting Stitch
Set
the
Machine
Stitch
width
Stitch width
_l
control5
I 2 3 4
control 3 to 5
,<
Stitch control
length (l S t_ 2
Here's How
pusi
Here's How Place 3/8" the fabric from top side up, and sew
l,i_ s
1.
Fold
under
each fabric
edge 5/8"
contro_ yelh_w
and press. 2.
Stretch Stitch
Pin
the
two
edges
to
or
1/8"
raveling.
guiding catches
fabric folded
Stretch
Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
as hemming
create
open
work
tablecloth
and draperies.
appearance
interest.
52
SECTION3. ElasticStretch
Set the
LEARNTHESTITCHES
Stitch
Box Stitching
Machine
Stitch width
Stitch width
ToD control
thread _! I_
tension
Stitch length
control yellow
_tretch stitch
p_S_tlon
rop
thread
tension
control 3 to 8
Stitch length
Use
this
stitch
to join
heavy
weight
i ,lll
to join them
this
stitch
to attach
elastic
to
into the
quarters center
and front,
match center
2.
back and side seams. the the middle center of of the the elastic presser making distri-
53
SECTION3.
Two-point
I 2 3 4 control :oo thread tension control _ Io Stitch control length orarlge Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot
3 to 5
control
3 to 5
Stretch
Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
54
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
iI,
'\
Stitch length control green zone
Here's How 1.
o
Adjust
the
stitch
width
and
tength
as
you desire. 2. Practice Mark fabric, the stitch the using lines on a scrap of" fabric. for decoration fabric on marker. point. the
Stretch
Stitch
3.
a washable
4. 5. 6.
the
along
the
55
SECTION
4.
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS
CHART
What to Do When
PROBLEM Incorrect
CORRECTION Ch'oose correct size needle Rethread machine. for thread and fabric
Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle.
Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin, Replace Do not Choose needle plate, or polish off burrs completely
pull fabric; guide it gently. correct size needle for thread foot.
and fabric.
B_eakmg
Needle
Incorrect setting of needle, Loose presser foot. Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam.
Rtmch,_g
of Thread
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few sthches are formed. Reset thread tension. thread should be same size and kind.
Using two different sizes or kinds Bent or blunt needle. Loose presserfoot. Fabric too sheer or too soft.
56
PROBLEM
PROBABLE
CAUSE
CORRECTION
t_correct size needle, Bent or blunt needle. Sk;ppmg Stitches Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle Insert new needle. Reset needle. Loosen upper thread
for thread
and fabric.
tension.
Starting to stitch too fast. improper threading. Breaking Uppel Thlead Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle. Sharp Nicks eye in needle. or burrs at hole of needle plate.
speed.
Loosen upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for Insert new needle. Replace needle plate, or polish
lhread off
burrs
Breaking
Bobbin
Thread
Improper bobbin threading. Lint in bobbin holder or hook Darning plate in place. Stitch Length set at O. Thread knotted under fabric. Push-pull clutch is disengaged.
race.
Check bobbin threading. Clean bobbin holder and hook Remove darning plate. Adjust Stitch Length Control. Place both threads back under to stitch. Push in the clutch.
race
Fabric
not Moving
presser foot
before
beginning
Machine
Jamming
Knocking
Noise
Disassemble and clean hook race. Clean bobbin holder and hook race.
57
SECTION
5.
essential
parts clean at all times. area can attract if a thread dust and lint. is caught. Your machine can become sluggish
loudly
Lh_plug
the
machine
and
open
the
{;_cP covPr
CALITION
hght
bulb Protect
will
be yotlr
%/O11
f
Follow I. Turn
_ _t
when
cover Dlate these directions: off the power or unplug the 5. the bobbin cover plate by Replace the bobbin. 4. Brush or vacuum the dust and lin_ holder B Slide on the bobbin pushing _t into cover plate h
the grooves.
the [:otirlter
bulb
tip
and to
turn
the
clockwise
remove
pulling
it toward
you.
the
new ttlt[)if_g
btdb
in
by
pushingit
up arid
tt clockwise.
Remove
the bobbin.
58
SECTION Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Oiling the Machine
Open face cover of oil plate and oil points
5.
as shown
below
excess oil,
Unplug
the
machine
and
remove
5.
Take bobbin
out
the bobbin.
Lift
up the it.
holder
and remove
the screw
on the left side the large screw In case extended Use good No other Above require machine time, quality oiling points oiling oil is not used for an
plate
it before
sewing. oil.
which
on this machine.
6.
the dogs,
lint
brush
to
clean
the
7.
Line
up the
red marks
hook Also
holder.
the stopper
in the hook
59
PARTS LIST
l"
%
8 9 lO
%
12 13 14
i!
./
15
16
17
18
19
2O
G
6O
All
parts
listed
herein
may be ordered
from
or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
Ref.
No,
Part No.
Description Bobbin Spool No. box with 10 bobbins pin felt 1 1 Stretch fabric needles needles needles needles needles (ORG) (RED) (PUB) (GRN) (BLU)
INFORMATION:
1 2 3
1. 2. 3. 4.
"20-6868 102403202 813404013 6551 6552 6553 6554 652806003 685502008 825813005 823803006 822804118 *6864 6797 820832005 41669 802424004 6830 *6889 652802009 213502003 213501002 213504005 213505006 213506007 213503004
No. 1 1 Single No. 14 Single No. 1B Single No. 18 Single Straight Sliding Zipper Satin Needle Light foot
4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
Repair
Parts
Distribution
Large screw driver Small screw driver Lint brush opener brush
20
* These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per instructions above.
61
INDEX
A Accessory storage box .............. Appliqueing ................... B Bar tacking ................... Base ........................... Base plate ............... Basic zigzag ................... Blind hemming .............. Bobbin ............ Bobbin holder .............. Bobbin thread ................. Bobbin winding .................. ............ Bobbin winding spindle Box stitching .................. Buttonhole ................... Buttonhole Buttonhole Buttonhole Buttonhole Buttonhole attachment foot ......... guide plate making opener 23, 33 4. 48, 60_61 23, 31 23, 39_40 4, 15_16, 58, 60_61 16, 58"59 18_19 15 2, 15 25, 53 27, 41 2, 8 23, 33 Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length chart ....................... Face cover plate ............ Fagoting ..................... Feed dogs ...................... Foot control .................... Free arm sewing ................. 14 Power switch .................... Practical stitch chart ............. Pressure control dial ................ Presser foot ................. Presser foot lever ................. Push-pull clutch ................. 3, 5 23_27 6 3, 10"_13 3, 7 3, 15
R Reverse stitch control .......... Rick-rack stretch stitching ......... 2, 22, 28 23, 36
H Hand wheel .................... Herring bone stretch ............. Hook race ...................... L Lace work ...................... Large screw driver ............. Light and power switch ............. Light bulb ................. Lint brush .................. M Monogramming N ................ 23, 34 40 4, 60"-'61 3, 5 57, 60_61 4, 58_61 3, 18 26, 52 59
S
Satin stitch foot .................... 60_61 26, 32 28 24, 38 24, 38 5 24, 50 60_61 60"61 24, 51 3, 10 60_61 , 2, 7 2, 21 1 3, 20 ....... 4, 12, 24, 26, 32_34, 50, 55, Sating stitching ................ Seam guides ..................... Serging ...................... Serging or pine leaf stretch ......... Sewing light ...................... Shell stitching ................. Sliding buttonhole foot ............... .............. 4, 12, 27, 42_43, Small screw driver ............. 4, Smocking .................... Snap-on button ................. Spool pin felt .............. 4, 7, Spool pins ...................... Stitch length control .............. Stitch selector ..................
........ ....
27, 41, 44 4, 13, 27, 44_45 4, 27, 44, 60"-61 41_47 4, 43, 60_61 4, 27, 44, 60"--61 23, 35
.............. .........
C
Cabinet ......................... I0"_'I ...... 2 14 I 59 28 Changing needle .................. Changing presser foot ............ Cleaning hook race and feed dogs Cornering guide ..................
Needle ................ 13_14, 60"61 Needle clamp ................... 3, 14 Needleptate ................... 2, 16 Needle, thread and fabric chart ........ 14 Needle threading ............... 17_18 O Oiling ......................... Overcasting stitch ................. Overcast stretch ................ Overedging stitch ...............
D Darning .................. 23, 29, 31 Darning plate ..... 4, 29, 31, 34_35, 60_61 Decorative geometric patterns ....... 26, 55 E Elastic stretch ................. Embroidery ................... Extension table .................. 25, 53 23, 34 2, 8
59 36 24, 38 26, 54
Stitch width control .............. 2, 21 Straight stitching ............ 23, 28_29 Straight stitch foot ................... .............. 4, 11,23, 28_30, 60_61 Straight stretch stitching .......... 23, 30 Stretch patching ................ 25, 51 Stretch stitch adjuster ............. 3, 21
T Parts list ..................... Performance problems ............ Plug connector ................... Portable case ..................... 60"61 56_57 3, 5 2 Take-up lever ................... Thread cutter .................... Thread guide ................. Three-step zigzag ............... Topstitching .................. 2, 17 2, 7 2_3, 17 24, 37 23, 29
62
Turning a sqtJare corner "fwo point box stitching Two-point shell stitching
foot ........................ 11. 23_26, 31, 3.5"40, 50._53. 60"..61 stitching ............. 23, 31_36 overcasting ................. 36 application ........... 23, 48_4g foot ...... 4, 12, 23, 48_49, 60_61
63
MEMO
MEMO
WARRANTY
# ._=
FULL
25-YEAR
WARRANTY
ON SEWING
MACHINE
of the sewing
FULL For
=
EQUIPMENT free of
appear
electrical
equipment
machine,
including
components,
motor,
speed control.
FULL
=
90-DAY 90 days
ON ALL
PARTS
AND
For
necessary
for proper
for normal
maintenance.
TO THE NEAREST
SEARS SERVICE
rights which
vary horn
state to state.
SEARS,
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., D/817
WA, Hoffman
Estates,
IL 60179
#
SEWING
MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location. WHEN ORDERING *MODEL NUMBER REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING plate on the back of
INFORMATION:
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
U.S.A.
S-385
Printed in Taiwan
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