STOCKHOLM SLIPOVER

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Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL
Measurements: Bust circumference: 91 (96) 100 (105) 116 (126) 136 (146) 156 cm [35¾ (37¾) 39¾ (41¾) 45¾ (49½) 53½
(57½) 61½ inches]
Back width incl. rib edges: 35 (35) 36 (38) 40 (41) 42 (42) 44 cm [13½ (13½) 13¾ (15) 15¾ (16¼) 16½
(16½) 17¼ inches]
Armhole depth: 22 (23) 24 (25) 26 (27) 29 (29) 31 cm [8¾ (9) 9½ (9¾) 10¼ (10¾) 11 (11) 12¼ inches]
Total length: 53 (54) 55 (57) 58 (60) 62 (64) 65 cm [20¾ (21¼) 21¾ (22½) 22¾ (23½) 24½ (25¼) 25½
inches] measured mid back incl. neck edge
Gauge: 19 sts x 27 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm [US7] needles
Needles: Circular needles: 4.5 mm [US7] / 60 and 80 or 100 cm [24 and 32 or 40 inches] and 3.5 mm [US4] / 40
and 80 or 100 cm [16 and 32 or 40 inches]
Materials: 100 (100) 100 (100) 100-150 (150) 150 (150) 200 g Tvinni by Isager (50 g = 255 m [280 yds]) or 100-150
(150) 150 (150) 150 (150-200) 200 (250) 250 g Isager Tweed by Isager (50 g = 200 m [219 yds]) or 100-
150 (150) 150 (150) 150 (150-200) 200 (200) 250 g Sunday by Sandnes Garn (50 g = 235 m [257 yds])
held together with 50-75 (75) 75 (75) 75 (75-100) 100 (100) 100-125 g Silk Mohair by Isager (25 g = 210
m [232 yds]) or Tynn Silk Mohair by Sandnes Garn (25 g = 212 m [232 yds])
 PATTERN
The Stockholm Slipover vest is worked from the top down. The back part of the yoke is worked first, then
the shoulders and front and finally the two sections are joined for the body of the slipover. The Stockholm
Slipover has slanting shoulders that create a very good fit and which are shaped using short rows. Rib edges
are worked along the neck edge and armholes, and all the edges are finished with an Italian bind-off.
Begin by knitting a swatch to determine which needle size you need to achieve the correct gauge – it is
important for the shoulder width of the design to achieve the correct gauge.

Size guide
The Stockholm Slipover is designed to have approx. 6 cm [2¼ inches] of positive ease. Sizes XS (S) M (L)
XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL are intended for a bust circumference of approx. 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-
110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) 140-150 cm [31½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-
47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) 55-59 inches]. Measure yourself using a measuring tape to determine which size
to knit. Example: If you measure 90 cm [35½ inches] around the widest part of your bust (or belly, if this is
the widest part of your upper body), this would mean you should knit a size S.
The Stockholm Slipover is worked with decreases on the body. If your bust is not the widest part of your
body, these decreases can be omitted.

About increases
Increases are worked so they either slant right (M1R) or left (M1L), as follows:
M1R: Insert left needle under the strand that runs between the stitches from back to front, then knit this
strand.
M1L: Insert left needle under the strand that runs between the stitches from front to back, then knit this
strand through the back loop.

Back
Cast on 60 (60) 62 (66) 70 (72) 74 (74) 78 sts on 4.5 mm [US7] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needles with your
preferred cast-on method.
Purl across 1 row. The next row is a RS row.
Work 40 (40) 40 (42) 44 (40) 38 (34) 34 rows back and forth in stockinette stitch. The work now measures 15
(15) 15 (16) 16,5 (15) 14,5 (13) 13 cm [6 (6) 6 (6¼) 6½ (6) 5¾ (5) 5 inches] from the cast-on edge.

Now work increases at both ends of the RS rows as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K1, M1L, knit to the last stitch of the row, M1R, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Work Row 1 and 2 a total of 9 (11) 12 (12) 13 (16) 19 (22) 24 times. There are now 78 (82) 86 (90) 96 (104)
112 (118) 126 sts on the needles.
The back now measures 22 (23,5) 24 (25) 26,5 (27) 28,5 (29,5) 30,5 cm [8½ (9) 9½ (9¾) 10¼ (10½) 11 (11½)
12 inches] measured from the cast-on edge.
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Break the yarn and let the sts rest while the shoulders and front are worked.

Left shoulder
The left shoulder is worked as a wedge with the pointy end towards the armhole. This gives the vest a
slanted shoulder and a really good fit.
Pick up and knit 22 (22) 22 (23) 23 (24) 24 (24) 25 sts with the 4.5 mm [US7] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular
needles. Pick up the sts RS facing along the left end of the cast-on edge of the back starting at the neck
edge using the short end of the yarn, so that the following row can be worked directly from the RS with
the long end of the working yarn (the direction for picking up and knitting the sts is from the neck edge and
towards the left edge) (see video on www.petiteknit.com).
Note: The new stitches are picked up and knitted in between the sts and not in the sts – this ensures that
knitting looks continuous and the cast-on edge is nearly invisible.

Now work short rows and increases to form the shoulder and neck edge. Use any short row technique you
like – I recommend using the German Short Rows technique (see video on www.petiteknit.com).
First you will bind off sts at the neck edge while starting to work the short rows, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Bind off 1 stitch (at neck edge), k3, turn. There are now 21 (21) 21 (22) 22 (23) 23 (23) 24 sts
on the needles.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to end.
Row 3 (RS): Bind off 1 stitch, k6, turn. There are now 20 (20) 20 (21) 21 (22) 22 (22) 23 sts on the needles.
Row 4 (WS): Purl to end.
Row 5 (RS): Bind off 1 stitch, k9, turn. There are now 19 (19) 19 (20) 20 (21) 21 (21) 22 sts on the needles.
Row 6 (WS): Purl.

Now work short rows (without binding off sts), as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to 4 sts after the last turn, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to end.
Work these 2 rows a total of 2 times (the last time you turn there are 2 (2) 2 (3) 3 (4) 4 (4) 5 sts left on the left
needle).
Work 24 (24) 24 (22) 22 (22) 20 (18) 18 rows back and forth in stockinette stitch across all sts. You have
worked the shoulder and now you will shape the front of the neckline. The next row is a RS row.

Continue back and forth in stockinette stitch, while at the same time working increases at the neck edge of
the RS rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K1, M1L, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Work these 2 rows a total of 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 times. There are now 25 (25) 26 (27) 28 (29) 29 (29) 30 sts
on the needles.

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Break the yarn and let the sts rest while the right shoulder is worked. (If you have an extra long circular
needle, you can let the sts rest on the same needle. This will make the next step easier).

Right shoulder
The right shoulder is worked the same as the left shoulder, only mirror reversed (short rows and bind offs
are worked from the WS):
Pick up and knit 22 (22) 22 (23) 23 (24) 24 (24) 25 sts with the 4.5 mm [US7] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular
needles. Pick up the sts RS facing along the right end of the cast-on edge of the back, starting at the right
edge (use the long end of the working yarn as you would normally do, the direction for picking up and
knitting the sts is from the right edge and towards the neck edge, and sts are once again picked up and
knitted in between the sts) (see video on www.petitekit.com).
The first row is a WS row.

Work as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 1 stitch (at neck edge), p3, turn. There are now 21 (21) 21 (22) 22 (23) 23 (23) 24 sts
on the needles.
Row 2 (RS): Knit to end.
Row 3 (WS): Bind off 1 stitch, p6, turn. There are now 20 (20) 20 (21) 21 (22) 22 (22) 23 sts on the needles.
Row 4 (RS): Knit to end.
Row 5 (WS): Bind off 1 stitch, p9, turn. There are now 19 (19) 19 (20) 20 (21) 21 (21) 22 sts on the needles.
Row 6 (RS): Knit to end.

Now work short rows (without binding off sts) as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Purl to 4 sts after last turn, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Knit to end.
Work these 2 rows a total of 2 times (the last time you turn there are 2 (2) 2 (3) 3 (4) 4 (4) 5 sts left on the left
needle).
Work 25 (25) 25 (23) 23 (23) 21 (19) 19 rows back and forth in stockinette stitch across all sts. The next row
is a RS row.

Now continue back and forth in stockinette stitch, while at the same time working increases at the neck
edge on the RS rows to shape the neck edge as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to the last stitch on the needle, M1R, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Work these 2 rows a total of 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 times. There are now 25 (25) 26 (27) 28 (29) 29 (29) 30 sts
on the needles.

Do not break the yarn, as the work is continued from this point in the next step.

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Front
Work across the 25 (25) 26 (27) 28 (29) 29 (29) 30 sts of the right shoulder in stockinette stitch, cast on 10
(10) 10 (12) 14 (14) 16 (16) 18 new sts in extension of these sts using the backward loop method, work
across the 25 (25) 26 (27) 28 (29) 29 (29) 30 resting sts from the left shoulder in stockinette stitch. There are
now 60 (60) 62 (66) 70 (72) 74 (74) 78 sts on the needles.
Work 5 (5) 3 (7) 7 (3) 3 (1) 1 rows back and forth in stockinette stitch. The next row is a RS row.

Now work increases at both ends of the work from the RS as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K1, M1L, knit to the last stitch of the row, M1R, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Work these 2 rows a total of 9 (11) 12 (12) 13 (16) 19 (22) 24 times. There are now 78 (82) 86 (90) 96 (104)
112 (118) 126 sts on the needles.

Do not break the yarn, as the work is continued from this point in the next step.

Body
Now join the back and front on 4.5 mm [US7] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular needles to form the
body of the slipover and start working in the round. Work as follows:
Knit across front sts, cast on 8 (9) 9 (10) 14 (16) 17 (21) 22 new sts in extension of these sts using the
backward loop method, knit across the resting sts of the back, cast on 8 (9) 9 (10) 14 (16) 17 (21) 22 new
sts in extension of these sts using the backward loop method. Join to work in the round on the circular
needle. There are now 172 (182) 190 (200) 220 (240) 258 (278) 296 sts on the needles. Place a marker after
the first 4 (5) 5 (5) 7 (8) 8 (10) 11 backward loop sts on either side of the body. The beginning of the round is
now at the marker on the right side of the body.

Work in the round in stockinette stitch until the body measures 49 (50) 51 (53) 54 (56) 58 (60) 61 cm [19¼
(19¾) 20 (20¾) 21¼ (22) 22¾ (23½) 24 inches] measured from the cast-on edge, while at the same time
decreasing 2 sts at either side marker every 8 cm [3¼ inches] a total of 2 times for all sizes, as follows:
K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog tbl, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog
tbl, k1 (a total of 4 sts have been decreased).
There are now 164 (174) 182 (192) 212 (232) 250 (270) 288 sts on the needles.

Change to 3.5 mm [US4] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular needles and work 2 cm [¾ inches] of (k1,
p1) rib. Bind off using the Italian bind-off method.

Neck edge and armhole edges in rib

Pick up and knit sts with 3.5 mm [US4] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needles. Pick up and knit approx. 118
(122) 124 (126) 132 (134) 134 (134) 134 sts around the neck edge and approx. 126 (136) 140 (144) 156 (162)
168 (178) 188 sts around each armhole from the RS.
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This is the equivalent of picking up and knitting 1 stitch in every stitch along the cast-on edges and 1 stitch
from every row all the way around. Work 1,5 cm [½ inches] of (k1, p1) rib for all sizes, both at the armholes
and neckline. Bind off using the Italian bind-off method, preferably binding off tightly.
Weave in all ends.

Abbreviations
k knit
k2tog decrease, knit two stitches together
p purl
RS right side of your work
st(s) stitch(es)
tbl through the back loop
WS wrong side of your work

Mette Wendelboe Okkels ©COPYRIGHT 2019 Version 2.0 (06.08.2020)

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This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. The pattern may not be copied, resold or
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