MUIR HERITAGE LAND TRUST

Open Space news

A
U T U M N

2004

The Dutra Ranch Loop Trail

By Sherida Bush
high peakthe highest on the ranch. A bench invites you to stop and take in the sweeping vista beginning in the northwest with the Napa Valley, moving southward to the Carquinez Strait and Mount Diablo.To the south, the highest ridge of Briones Regional Park lines the horizon. The nearby tree-covered ridge to the northwest is the Fernandez property, open space that the Muir Heritage Land Trust is now raising money to purchase. Looking down and to the east, the bell tower of John Muirs Victorian mansion sits among the treetops. On a very clear day, the snow-covered Sierra might just be visible. This open, oak-studded landscape, typical of the Bay Areas inner coastal hills, is prime ranch land. Nearly 200 years of cattle ranching have greatly influenced the human and natural history of the area. Even today the hoof-etched ridges in the hills announce their presence. Ranching proved very successful for those early pioneers. According to Mae Fisher Purcells florid account in the History of Contra Costa County, Cattle was the wedge which opened the way to prestige, grandiloquence and opulence not theretofore dreamed of by the dons, land grantees and owners of huge acreages. Ranchers often owned thousands of cattle apiece, and the animals wandered unimpeded. Owners would round them up only for the annual rodeos, where cattlemen and their families would gather from a 50-mile radius.The larger rodeos counted 300 or more people and upwards of 30,000 head of cattle. Cattle ranching began in the Franklin Ridge when Don Ignacio Martinez applied for a Spanish land grant of 17,000 acres in
STEPHEN JOSEPH

Inside
Executive Directors Report Staff Update: Meet Linus Eukel MHLTs 15th Anniversary Point San Pablo Peninsula Open Space Stewardship Update New MHLT Products Autumn Hikes Back Page: Save the Date! Annual Meeting Nov. 18

The following article is condensed from the October 2004 issue of Bay Nature magazine.

ot willing to give up its secrets easily, the land is unpolished and the trail less traveled by. It holds deep and interconnected stories of human toil and Californias history. Long ago, it drew many wanderers from far-away reaches, some by wagon on the Emigrant Trail, others by long ocean voyages. Placing foot to earth here connects you to their history. The journey ended for these settlers where you will begin yourson the Franklin Ridge.The area begins at Mt. Wanda, part of the John Muir National Historic Site in Martinez, and extends northwest for some ten miles towards Hercules.The Dutra Loop Trail lies on two Land Trust properties, Dutra Ranch and Sky Ranch. The Dutra Loop Trail begins on Contra Costa County Feeder Trail #1, a wide, dirt path that was once a stagecoach road used to transport travelers between Martinez and Richmond.Youll travel for about a mile uphill through grasslands dotted with oaks and shrubs. Past the Sky Ranch kiosk, the trails left fork rises to the top of a 1,000-foot

But in every walk with Nature one receives far more than he seeks.
JOHN
MUIR

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Executive Directors Repor t

The Muir Heritage Land Trusts 15th Anniversary celebration was a huge success! Many thanks to all of you who helped make it possible, including all our sponsors and special guests, Gary Bogue and Doug McConnell.The Land Trusts Outreach Committee tripled the funds raised from last years dinner, and provided a wonderful evening at the same time. I want to extend a special thanks to both Senator Tom Torlakson and Assemblyman Joe Canciamilla, for joining us at the Celebration, and for all their help securing state funding for the Fernandez Ranch acquisition. While we celebrate 15 years of preserving some of Contra Costas most extraordinary landscapes, the Muir Heritage Land Trust is facing a future that holds significant challenges. The Fernandez Ranch acquisition is our biggest project to date and will become the largest open space preserve in the West County, in the middle of a wildlife and trail corridor that extends from the Carquinez Strait south to Lamorinda. Once acquired, the Fernandez Ranch will require extensive creek restoration and management. It will double our land holdings in the Franklin Ridge, putting us up to the Hercules city limits, and contiguous with East Bay Municipal Utility Districts 10,000-acre watershed lands. Since the 15th Anniversary, weve been told that both the State Coastal Conservancy and the Wildlife Conservation Board are contributing $1,000,000 each to the Fernandez Ranch acquisition. Congressman Miller has been able to include an additional $1,000,000 for Fernandez Ranch in the proposed federal transportation bill, however there is still uncertainty whether that bill will be passed this year. We will continue to ask for your support as we work through this fall.There are many events planned including the Horsemans Benefit Ride in September, the Dutra Ranch dedication in October, and our Annual meeting in November (see page 8 for details). Linus Eukel, our new Development Director, will try to meet with as many of you as he can. Hes a great addition to our small staff. Finally, I want to thank all of you who supported the Contra Costa County Open Space Measure.While we were unsuccessful in passing the Measure, we were encouraged by the approximately 50,000 yes votes.We are looking at a number of alternatives for a future Measure, but in the meantime, our greatest challenge is to continue to build our community of land conservation supporters. It is more critical now than ever. Thank you!

MHLT Executive Director

M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T O p e n S p a c e N e w s

The Dutra Ranch Loop Trail

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M U I R H E R I TAG E L A N D T RU S T
P.O. Box 2452 Martinez, CA 94553 925-228-5460 925-372-5460 fax info@muirheritagelandtrust.org www.muirheritagelandtrust.org

S TAFF
Tina Batt Executive Director Mary Alice Stadum Executive Associate Beth Pardieck Stewardship Associate

OF

B OARD D IRECTORS

Peter Langley Chair Nancy Schaefer Vice Chair Mary Ann Gaebe Secretary Mark Wilson Treasurer Dick Awenius Joseph Byrne Peter Colby Ken Fischer Sheila Grilli Steve Pardieck Marj Ross Donn Walklet Bill Weiner

E MERITUS B OARD M EMBERS

Hulet Hornbeck Hal Olson Jack Telfer Everett Turner

H ONORARY B OARD M EMBER

Jim Cutler

E DITOR
Sherida Bush

N EWSLETTER C ONTRIBUTORS
Tina Batt Beth Pardieck Mary Alice Stadum Jim Cutler Newsletter design/editing: Public Media Center

1823. He brought in breeding stock and small herds, turning them loose on his vast estate. Martinez named his holdings Rancho El Pinole, and they extended over land that today includes most of the Franklin Ridge, Pinole, Rodeo, Crockett, and Martinez. The next wave of settlers to the area began in the mid-19th century. Dr. John Strentzel, John Muirs father-in-law, purchased his property in 1853. Several miles north, James McHarry purchased 500 acres in 1856 for his cattle ranch. Although they lived at opposite ends of the Franklin Ridge, the McHarrys, Muirs, and Strentzels all knew each other. John Muir would come to call, McHarrys great-granddaughter, Miriam Awenius, said recently. Muir would ask permission for my grandfathers daughter Ada to go horseback riding with Muirs daughter Wanda. Leading from the Sky Ranch peak, the trail winds toward Dutra Ranch. Manuel Dutra emigrated from Portugal to establish his cattle ranch in 1917.The trail you walk here was also part of the Martinez-Richmond stagecoach route, and probably John Muirs stomping ground. Its inconceivable that Muir didnt walk that land, said Glenn Fuller, Superintendent of the John Muir National Historic Site. He loved tromping in those hills. The Muir Heritage Land Trust (MHLT) bought the 159-acre Dutra Ranch early this year.The purchase was the linchpin in establishing 660 acres of contiguous open space, an important corridor for wildlife and trail linkages. The Franklin Ridge is surrounded by cities, said MHLT Executive Director Tina Batt. Right now we are fighting to keep much of it permanent open space, and I like to think we are continuing John Muirs work by setting this land aside as a special place for wildlife as well as people. Grassland dominates any walk here, and the current state of the grasslands tells the tale of ranching history. Before the early settlers arrived, native perennial

grasses covered the grasslands of Franklin Ridge.These native grasses found it difficult to compete with the non-native grasses spread in part by the cattle, but they can still be found. Among them are scattered stands of purple needlegrass that grow on the Dutra and McHarry ranches. The plant grows in small, dense bunches and may be seen near the trail. The grassland plant community supports a robust rodent population, which in turn feeds snakes, mammals, and raptors. In the fall, resident rodents are preparing for winter. Among them are the duskyfooted woodrat and the meadow vole, both busy fortifying their nests.The woodrat makes a nest of twigs and leaves on the ground or in the trees, where it stores winter food. You may see the voles extensive runways through the grass to their burrow entrances. With such abundant food sources, the land provides perfect conditions for raptorsCoopers hawks, red-tailed hawks, northern harriers, white-tailed kites, and peregrine falcons. Near dusk or even during a daytime darkened by clouds, you might catch a glimpse of a great horned, barn, or screech owl. Less than a mile from the Sky Ranch peak, youll head downhill to reach the Dutra family homesite, now a frequent resting spot for a small herd of cattle. Traces of the familys decades of working the land are reduced to a timeworn granary, an old corral, the well, a few rusted farm implements and three olive trees. Time has vanquished the home, the barn, and the windmill. Manuel Dutras granddaughter, Delores Moneypenny, remembers playing in the hay barn as a girl, and sledding down the dry hills on pieces of cardboard,
M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T O p e n S p a c e N e w s

The Dutra Ranch Loop Trail

continued from page 3

dodging cow droppings. We decided to sell to the land trust, she explained,because the land is our heritage, and because our children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren will be able to go up and enjoy it like everyone else.The view is beautiful. Rancher Bob Chapman leases the land for his cattle, an unusual Angus-Brahman mix.Their horns look formidable but the animals are docile. If you meet them, just walk around them and dont get between a mother and her calf. Chapman has been ranching in the area for more than 35 years and loves the life, though its hard work: Raising cows is 24/7, he said. The Muir Heritage Land Trust continues to graze the property to clear out potential fuel for fires. MHLT Stewardship Associate Beth Pardieck is leading a project to encourage the regrowth of native freshwater marsh plants by fencing off natural seeps and a stock pond from the cattle. Seasonal creeks, natural springs, and seeps feed the upper reaches of both Franklin Creek and Rodeo Creek. After leaving the homesite, you are soon cooled by an oak-bay woodland. Although coast live oak is dominant, some stands are mixed with a healthy number of fragrant California bay trees. In the fall, black oaks and big leaf maples brighten the landscape with their fall colors. Nearing the end of the loop, youll pass through a gate back onto Sky Ranch. Along the way the woodland opens up to chaparral and scrub habitat. Coyote brush, chamise and California sagebrush are common, along with poison oak, which in the fall dresses itself with leaves of showy red. Cattle ranching continues to influence the Franklin Ridgemostly by helping preserve it. Descendants of those early ranchers speak of protecting their family lands. Bill Fernandez great grandfather Bernardo left his native Portugal at age 13, sailed around the world, and settled in what is now Pinole.The family still owns 700 acres of the land that Bernardo purchased 150 years ago, and they plan to sell it to the Muir Heritage Land Trust. Its a prime opportunity to leave a legacy in honor of my great grandfather, said Bill Fernandez. [Its especially important] with development in the county going crazy.
4
M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T O p e n S p a c e N e w s

The ranch is still grazed, but remains gently used and fertile habitat for wildlife, including several special status species the Alameda whipsnake among them.The whipsnake has been captured near the Fernandez property, and biologists believe the Franklin Ridge is home to the elusive snake.The fast-moving whipsnake is sooty black with yellow-orange stripes running its 5-foot length.The continued survival of the whipsnake depends on stemming the loss of habitat and habitat fragmentation. Some day you may be able to continue from this trail to Fernandez Ranch and beyond on the Bay Area Ridge Trail. If the efforts of the Muir Heritage Land Trust and numerous other agencies are successful, Feeder Trail #1 and the Dutra Loop Trail will become part of the Bay Area Ridge Trail. The trails, the land, the natural resources, the history of this area are all intertwined. The cattle ranches have been a part of each of them.The cattle disrupted and altered the land long ago, yet have helped keep it an island of open space in a sea of asphalt and stucco.Their imprints in the soil and in history lead us to the preservation of the land, to the creation of a vital open space corridor for wildlife and for people.

S TA F F U P DAT E

Getting There
Take Highway 4 to the Alhambra Avenue exit. From the east, turn left (south) onto Alhambra Avenue, go under the freeway then turn right onto Franklin Canyon Road. From the west, turn right onto Alhambra Avenue and then immediately right onto Franklin Canyon Road.Take Franklin Canyon Road about 1 mile to Dutra Road, turn left.The trailhead, marked Contra Costa County Feeder Trail #1, is about one-tenth of a mile up the road.Watch for the yellow END sign on the left just before the horse stables. Limited parking is available on the trail side of the road.
Sherida Bush named her 10-year editorial business, RavenScribe Associates (rscribe@pacbell.net), after her favorite corvid. Shes a former editor at Psychology Today, and has written for numerous magazines and book publishers. She has designed and written publications for the Muir Heritage Land Trust over its 15-year history. The Muir Heritage Land Trust celebrated the Dutra Ranch acquisition on October 9 with a dedication on the property. 7

T H E M U I R H E R I TAG E L A N D T RU S T is pleased to announce the appointment of Linus Eukel as our new Communications and Development Director. Mr. Eukel will be responsible for all aspects of the organizations public awareness and development activities. He comes to the position with extensive administrative experience in the public and nonprofit sectors including recent positions as Communications Manager for the Arts and Culture Commission of Contra Costa County and as Executive Director for the Sara Shelton Mann Dance Co. in San Francisco. Additional background includes over 15 years in the performing arts as a featured soloist with music organizations throughout the United States. His academic credentials include an A.B. in Music from the University of California at Berkeley and a Master of Music degree from the University of New York. Mr. Eukel is a native of Walnut Creek where he currently resides with his wife Stephanie and their one-yearold daughter Olivia Ingeborg.

A Night to Remember
L e t s C e l e b r a t e !

15 T H A N N I V E R S A RY S P E C I A L G U E S T S P E A K E R S

years
M U I R H E R I TAG E L A N D T R U S T 15 YEARS AND 1,500 ACRES PROTECTED

Doug McConnell

Gary Bogue

Assemblyman Joe Canciamilla

State Senator Tom Torlakson with Tina Batt

Thank you to our members, volunteers, silent auction donors, supporters and the following sponsors for a successful 15th Anniversary Celebration:
ChevronTexaco Tesoro Refining and Marketing Holland America Inc. East Bay Regional Park District NECA-IBEW Contra Costa Times The Ross Family Shell Oil Products US ConocoPhillips The Mechanics Bank Shapell Industries Old Republic Title Co.
TODD KIKER

Guests gather under the stars...

Update: Point San Pablo Peninsula Open Space

By Jim Cutler

he views are absolutely spectacular San Francisco, Marin and Contra Costa shorelines all shimmer in the distance. Its the Point San Pablo Peninsula, owned primarily by Chevron/Texaco, the City of Richmond and the closed Point Molate Marine Terminal. In addition to the great views, the land retains a surprising variety of wildlife habitat. The Point Molate property is in the process of being transferred from federal ownership to the City of Richmond. The Muir Heritage Land Trust is coordinating a study of open space and recreation potential on the Point San Pablo Peninsula. In addition to the Land Trust, funding partners for the study include the State Coastal Conservancy, the East Bay Regional Park District and the City of Richmond.The study is exploring open space and recreational uses on the peninsula, including a spur of the San Francisco Bay Trail, that are compatible with the existing Chevron/Texaco refinery and the reuse of Point Molate being considered by the City of Richmond.The study should be completed early in 2005.

M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T O p e n S p a c e N e w s

Stewardship

Update

Eagle Scout Carl Swanson of Martinez designed and built, with his fellow scouts, two picnic benches this summer for the Land Trust as a community service project.The benches are now in place on the Dutra Ranch. Stop by for a picnic with a beautiful view of the Carquinez Strait and Contra Costa County. Thanks Carl!
CATHY PARDIECK

The Alhambra Creek Restoration project is under way at the Martinez Adult School.Two years of planning and organizing paid off when the Urban Creeks Council staff began work in August. The first steps are removing sandbags, non-native vegetation and gabions, so we can then reconfigure the creek banks and restore native vegetation.The project involves handson participation by the students of Vicente Martinez Continuing Education High School and Briones Independent High School and coordination by the many partners: Urban Creeks Council, Friends of Alhambra Creek, Martinez Unified School District, City of Martinez and Muir Heritage Land Trust.

M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T O p e n S p a c e N e w s

KRISTEN VAN DAM OF THE URBAN CREEKS COUNCIL

Las Lomas High School student Elizabeth King is presented with an award from Stewardship Associate Beth Pardieck for helping protect the Dutra Ranch. Elizabeth and the Save Our Forests Club at Las Lomas raised over $1,000 last year toward Dutra with campus fundraisers, while teaching fellow students about the value of protecting local open space. Our thanks to Elizabeth!

GEORGE SWANSON

Wear Our Logo with Pride!

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Autumn Hikes
Fernandez Ranch
Join us for special hikes

October 23 & November 20th

to the Fernandez Ranch led by Executive Director Tina Batt. Please call the office at 925-228-5460 for reservations and directions.

Members enjoyed a beautiful June 12th Land Bank hike above the Carquinez Strait led by East Bay Regional Park District Assistant General Manager, Bob Doyle.

STEPHEN JOSEPH

M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T O p e n S p a c e N e w s

BEN PEASE

Come to MHLTs Annual Meeting

WHEN: Thursday, November 18th, 7:30 - 9:00 p.m. WHERE: Land Trust headquarters,Telfer Building, 604 Ferry St., 2nd floor, downtown Martinez W H AT : Executive Director,Tina Batt, will speak on the Land Trusts latest acquisition the historic 700-acre Fernandez Ranch. The Ranch has been in the Fernandez family since the late 1800s. Tina will report on the Land Trusts progress in fundraising for this purchase and provide a photo journey of the propertys scenic landscapes. Refreshments will be served, including delicious wines that local vintners will share with our guests. RSVP: Everyone is welcome and encouraged to attend. Please call the Land Trust office, 925-228-5460, to reserve a space by November 12th and for directions.

ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED

P.O. Box 2452, Martinez CA 94553
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