Section 1 Site Description: Land for Life

In Spanish: Tierra para la Vida

In the local language: Mongeal Mapu
Size: ~22.14 hectares (~54.7 acres) of land degraded from 40 years of grazing by donkeys, horses, sheep
and goats. Brighter areas in the map are eroded. The boundary is ~2km.

~470m, approximately north (east-west running) border

west-ocean ~550m ~540m east-Andes

~500m
Page 1 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)
Location: Chépica, 6ta Región del Libertador General Bernardo O´Higgins, Chile. This land is in a smaller
central mountain range of Chile. The Andes are to the east. The big local cities nearby are Santa Cruz
~25km away and San Fernando ~50km away. Santiago, the capital of Chile, is ~160km NNW.
Map position: Latitude: 34”47’11.42 S, Longitude: 71”29’53.89 W.
Google Maps closest point: Leyda, Chépica, Chile: http://goo.gl/maps/M300T. The top right corner of the
property is about 220m WSW from there. This Leyda is not the famous area of Chile.
Altitude: 630-730 meters above sea level
Distance from the ocean (west): 50km
Distance from the Andes (east): 70km
Land Profile: rounded humid landscape, a hill is to the west (left in the picture), which protects from the
winds from the sea and then it levels out to the east (right in the picture).
Slope at the W-E centre of the property:
On the top of the hill the land drops 30m in 150m, which is a slope of about 10°.
On the lower part of the hill the land drops 25m in 100m, which is a slope of about 14°. This is part of the
eroded area.
Over 250m the rest of the land drops down 30m. So this is a slope of approximately 7°.
From To Distance Difference in Approximate
corner corner (*straight line) metres altitude Slope %
NW NE 470 95 11
SW SE 500 74 8
SW NW 525* 15 2
SE NE 540 7 1

Aspect: the land has an easterly aspect. It will be less harsh than a westerly one.
More changeable aspects of the land:
Soil: generally there is a mix of sand, clay and silt (from granite and quartz) = loam. So, there
is good drainage.
Climate: cool to cold humid: Mediterranean, USDA Zone 10
A hardiness zone (a subcategory of Vertical Zonation) is a geographically defined area in
which a specific category of plant life is capable of growing, as defined by climatic conditions,
including its ability to withstand the minimum temperatures of the zone (see the scale on
the left). For example, a plant that is described as "hardy to zone 10" means that the plant
can withstand a minimum temperature of -1°C. A more resilient plant, that is "hardy to zone
9", can tolerate a minimum temperature of -7°C.
Temperature: minimum temperature is -1°C. Maximum temperature is 37°C. September to April (spring,
summer, autumn) - the growing season: Maximum average temperature: 29°C, Minimum average
temperature: 9°C.
Wind: the average wind speed is 5 km/hr and the maximum speed is about 21 km/hr. Normally afternoons
are more windy. Wind normally comes from the west, the coast. To the west the hill protects the property
from direct coastal wind. At the highest part of the land, on top of the hill, it gets windier.
Utilities: The site has no external electrical power supply, telephone line, town-water or sewerage service.

Page 2 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

Rain:
2km from the property to the NW is a big dam. A 15,000 acres commercial eucalypt forest surrounds the
dam. This is part of the corridor of the central range. Rain comes from the north. When dark clouds are in
the north and a warm wind blows, it normally means that it will rain.
In spring, summer and autumn (September to April), there is less rain and it is warmer.
Rainfall has been going down the last 3 years. The average used to be 700mm a year, but now the average
is 550mm. The maximum rainfall in 24 hours is 80mm for a normal year. In a 100 year event it would be
around 140mm.
Only a narrow strip at the western border of the property has land that is not part of this catchment. It
runs down the other side of the hill. The runoff of the majority of the area of land can be harvested for use
on this site. The site has approximately 22 hectares of catchment. Therefore the possible harvest of
rainwater for the catchment is about: 200,000m2 x 0.55m = 121,000m3, or 121,000,000 litres per year.
Minimum %RH through the year is around 17%. Average %RH through the year is around 70%.
The graph on the next page shows the tendency of rains through the year. Rains are concentrated between
the months of May and August (winter). In winter it difficult to get to the land due to the dirt road and rain.
The dirt road has to drain before use, as driving on the mud can lead to an accident.

CHILE/Winter-only rainfall patern

300

250

200

150

100

50

2009 2010 2011 2002-2011 2005

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 Section 2 Plan Description
Describe the plan with photographs and a one page write-up, listing elements and the purpose of the
design.
Purpose:
The purpose of the design is to rejuvenate the land with Permaculture principles and practices to make it
low maintenance and self-sustaining for a small community. The upper half of the site has been donated
for a non-ritualistic meditation retreat centre (teaching Mindfulness of Breathing), a Permaculture
demonstration and education site and future eco-hamlet for ~50 people. The lower half of the site has
been kept for future private for-profit development.
Next is a picture of some of the eroded area of the land downhill, south of spring #2. There is a band of
about 15 of these types of immature erosion gullies on the property.

The fence is being repaired to the finished product as below, around the whole property because (2)
donkeys, a horse and (up to 10) sheep come in from neighbours’ properties. It will be finished before we
start implementing the plan.

Page 4 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

Next is a picture of the area that was previously used to grow grain and vegetables facing north-east. You
can just see the Andes on the horizon at the right.

Next is a picture of the planned residential area next to (west of - behind) the above field.

The main spring is ~40m up the hill (behind the photographer).

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 ~470m, approximately east-west running border

west-ocean ~550m ~540m east-Andes

~500m
Elements present:
 #1 is the biggest source of water. It is dammed spring water with about 1,500 liters. It is very good
quality, for drinking. There is a pipe from it to the neighbour’s property. A meter will be put on the
pipe to know the neighbour’s usage. The springs flow very slowly.
 #2 is a spring water source with a little dam. It has about 200 litres.
 #3 is the proposed residential area with adobe house ruins. The previous residents of ~50 years ago
choose the right place to build. This is at the Keyline, where the slope of the land changes from convex
to concave. It is about 20m higher in altitude than the lowest point in the land and about 40m lower in
altitude than the main spring (#1). The height in altitude from the main spring to the highest point of
the land is about 46m.
 To the right of #3, across the field, in a more heavily treed triangular shaped area is a small spring
water source. It has about 100 litres.
 #4 is the highest point. It’s quite windy in September (spring).
 Just under the “we” of “west” in the top label of the above picture is the current access trail - the path
from a car parking place to property – 200m, riding bikes on it are difficult due to big rocks. One must
pass through 7 gates on a public dirt road of 8km to a group of houses to get to the access trail. When
going back one needs to travel beyond the public dirt road on a sealed road for 15km to Santa Cruz.
 Below #3 there is a fine line towards the south dividing the land into east and west, which is a partial
fence that is being dismantled.
 Between #4 and #2 there is a dirt road approximately 3m wide, coming from the western neighbour’s
property, with whom the owners are not on good terms.
 Below the dirt road at the south is a track, 60cm wide.
Human facilities needed:
 A multifunction hall: dormitory, classroom, dining hall, meditation hall, meeting hall.
 A kitchen.
Page 6 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)
 Compost toilets for men, women and people with disabilities.
 Showers.
 Clothes line.
 A glasshouse.
 A greenhouse.
 Storage for produce, seed, tools and firewood.
 Rainwater collection and storage.
 Piped water to the main building.
 Solar power supply for the main building.
 Fuel wood supply.
 Hot water for showers.
 Grey water recycling.
 Meditation huts for each meditator/s in Zone 5, by donation (stage 2)
 Wind power supply (possibly in future).
 Bio-gas production (possibly in future).
 Future family residents to build their own house as needed.
Other elements needed:
 Chicken coop.
 Bee hives.
 Worm farm.
 A means to pump water to the top of the property.
 A dam – earth tank/ring pond (and possibly later more contour dams).
 Swales.
 Composting area.

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 Section 3: Design

Z1… means Zone 1…, see details below. S1… etc. means spring 1... HP means highest point.
Any Microsoft Excel original files, used as the basis for pictures inserted here, may be freely obtained from
the designer on request: dhammadaso@live.com.au.
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Design application initially requires the identification of these intrinsic features of the site: climate, land
profile and aspect. Land profile, aspect, altitude and distance from the sea, create micro-climate/s. These
have been identified in the Section 1 which documents the site. Section 2 describes the purpose of the plan,
the current elements and the elements desired.
We don’t have (access to) earth working machinery. So, most work will be done by hand, or possibly with
the help of animals. The upper section (approximately the northern half) of the property will be the main
focus. Later, when the owner (Mr Diego Urra Gosselin) wishes to develop the lower section of the property
for profit, techniques from the upper section of the property will be continued and applied to the lower
section.
We follow the principle of not cutting down high value, or rare and endangered old growth forest. We only
clear low quality regrowth to replace it with a high quality productive diverse eco-system, more like the
system that was there naturally before it was cleared for grazing. We also want to encourage natives.

Main Frame Design: Water, Access, Elements

Water: contours, water capture and storage features
The Keyline
Left is the contour map. It has 20m divisions from 640m (on the
right) to 720m (on the left) -in light grey numbers- and property
corner points. The Keyline is where the slope of the hill changes
from convex to concave. It is very suitable for contour dams. As we
can see, the Keyline is between the contour 640m and 660m.
Swales
Swales are ditches and uncompacted downhill banks placed on
contour (level). Ideally, we start soaking water into the land with
swales from the highest point in the property. The more swales
there are, the quicker the property will reach full hydration,
because more rain will be caught and soaked into the land. The
lowest point on the highest boundary is the highest longest
contour line and possibly a swale start-point. This is the bottom left
corner, or the SW corner of this site.
Introduction to Permaculture says on page 57: “The distance between swales can be from 3-20 times the
average swale width (depending on rainfall). Given a swale base of 1-2 metres, the inter-swale space (area
between swales) should be 3-18 metres. In the former case (3 metres), rainfall would exceed 127cm…, and
in the latter it would be 25cm… or less. In humid areas, the inter-swale is fully planted with hardy or mulch-
producing species.”
By these calculations, for our major rainfall event, 1m wide swales should be about 20m apart. Our major
water event is 140mm (0.14m) in one day and our swales are 240m long. So the water catchment is
calculated thus: 240m x 20m x 0.14m = 672m3. This means 672,000 litres per swale per this 24hr event. We
divide this by 24(hrs), then 60(min) and 60(sec) to get the flow of litres per second. This equals a little more
than 7.8 litres per second. One litre can flow over 10cm2 in one second. So I recommend that each swale
should have a spillway depth of 5cm and length of at least 15.6m long. Probably three 5cm deep and 6m
long spillways would be better.
Usually we would not swale 20% slope or more, unless we want to link up with a large catchment on the
other side, and the back cuts would be bigger, one would use net and pan otherwise. This site has no slope
of 20% or more. So we can use swales in all areas, but we might take extra care in eroded areas.

Page 9 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

Below the fourth or fifth swale, natural springs appear. When this happens, a ram pump
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_ram) can be used to move water uphill (in conjunction with a solar
pump, or windmill), or the water can be used to create power. Ram pumps move one fifth of the water.
The older pumps for 1m head (fall) of water pumps to 20m. The newer pumps for 1.5m head of water
pumps to 60m, but you need to replace the nylon self-lubricating piston in the stainless steel cylinder
about every year with this new technology.

In stage one, we plan to implement (in part or fully):

a) the swale above the main spring (spring 1 = S1 – see the plan on the first page) to stop silt running
into it during rain and to increase the volume of the spring;
b) the swales on the borders of Zones 1 and 2 to hydrate these zones quickly, as these will be the
areas of higher production; and
c) the swale above the road in Zone 5, which will help stabilise the road and help prevent fire.
All these swales span the property from north to south and are about 240m long. We should work in spring,
after the winter rains, when the soil is saturated and softer, because the soil is very compacted and hard in
the hot/dry season. Due to the low rainfall, swale ditches a quarter of a meter deep may be all that is
needed. That would mean a total height with the uncompacted bank of half a meter. In early spring, one
person might be able to dig a quarter a cubic meter or more, in one hour. With three hours work per day,
240m would be completed by one person in less than 3 months.
Dams
There are no natural gullies or ridges on the property. So, special storage positions in the form of dams
have not been identified. This leaves us with only earth tanks (ring ponds) or contour dams as options.
Numerous dams are not planned to be a feature of the property. Due to its remoteness, it is hard to get
earth working equipment there and the soil has not much clay content. Funds and the number of people
involved are also limited. The only intended position for a dam is the ring pond on top of the hill, where we
can use a solar pump from a spring to store water for watering newly planted trees in summer downhill

Page 10 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

and as a fire prevention feature. The following could also be used in the dry season, if materials are
available:

Chinampas

These are a system of alternating canals and raised beds. They seem the most practical water feature to
implement considering this site’s conditions. In Permaculture A Designers’ Manual page 459, Bill Mollison
says: “it is said that the Aztecs at Lake Tenochtitlan in Mexico had what is possibly the most productive
system of polyculture yet devised, with chinampa crop, waterfowl, reedbed, and fish culture combined.”
And on page 495: “The chinampas- of the Valley of Mexico... date back more than 2000 years and were the
Page 11 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)
main source of foodstuff for the inhabitants of the entire valley, producing as many as seven different
crops in a year, two of which were maize." (Tompkins, P. 1976, Mysteries of the Mexican Pyramids, Harper
and Row.) And on page 496: “We can cheaply create chinampa swamps with a few compacted retaining
walls where water levels are regulated to back up over chinampa systems. The ratio of channel to dryland
culture is normally about 1:1-3, but if we reverse this ratio, herbivorous fish, plankton eaters, and crayfish
are self-foraging.” Chinampa canals can also be used as a natural swimming pool, especially if the ratio is
closer to 3:1 – no chemicals are needed.

Access: roads, paths

They harmonise with water. They stay on contour, or as close as possible to contour. Then they are an
asset to the water system and much easier to maintain. They often go above swales. Driveways can be a
heat sink, firebreak/buffer and a water harvest/catch. If wrongly done, they can be a fire tunnel. An access
track down a ridge also minimises maintenance. There are no ridges on this property. So we must work on
contour as much as possible. There is an existing road at the top of the property, which is close to contour
most of its length. We plan to build a small road on contour from the main building to the northern access
to get to cars.

Elements: structures, plants, animals

These can be more easily located in relation to the previous two mainframe elements: water and access.
We also need to look at elements that we will place in the landscape in relation to slope and orientation.
We will use the water and elements to capture the nutrients to improve the soil. Special techniques will be
mulching, including living mulches, composting using the Bio-Vital method: inoculant compost, compost
tea and bio-fertiliser. Compost is more suitable for tree production; the higher the content of fungi the
better. Bio-charcoal might also be considered in the beginning to help introduce carbon to the depleted
soil.

Structures: buildings, tanks

We hope to have a small community on the land and will follow this general advice for building an
intentional eco-community:
1. Not more than 150 people. Studies have shown that we can recognise up to 150 people on a
regular basis. We plan to have only up to about 50 people.
2. 10 houses should form a cluster with a meeting hall for them, all within 140m.
3. 3 clusters form a village and each cluster might have a special focus. This does not apply to our
situation.
4. It takes time for people to get to know each other and identify similar interests; it is suggested it
takes five years for that. People should initially live in the main building, as they form or identify
similar interests, they can plan a household based on that interest, which may involve a product or
service for the community.
Tanks are difficult to bring to the property due to its remoteness and limited road access. Larger tanks are
even more difficult, but building cement tanks may not be an option due to earthquakes. Neighbours use
plastic tanks. Plastic should be avoided as much as possible due to current research: https://vimeo.com/15346778.

Plants
Please see the tables in the appendices at the end of this document, which list types of plants suitable for
the purposes below. This is preliminary research for this climate and availability needs to be confirmed. For
example, soaps used on the property will be made on the property. A list of suitable plants for making soap
is an appendix.

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Gardens (vegetables and herbs), crops (grains and legumes) and supporting trees (fruit, nuts, wood,
legumes) should be planted on <15° sloped land, other than where native forest will be encouraged. It is
only in Zone 4 that the land slopes >15°. Rain-water harvesting in this area would need special techniques
and hardier tree species.
Below are some guidelines for establishing a (food, timber etc.) forest or swales that we intend to follow.
1. Use a chicken tractor to prepare the land
for a food forest. For a swale, just after
winter, dig the swale when the ground is
still moist.
2. Apply nitrogen fixing ground cover seed
mix straight away.
3. Scatter a thin layer of mulch on top.
4. Plant 3 hardy nitrogen fixing trees in a 10m
triangle.
5. Plant a large food tree (or a few high
quality wood trees ~4m apart) in the
centre of the triangle.
6. Plant understory support species: nitrogen fixing, chop and drop mulch trees and other food trees
(a little closer than recommended), around it (around and among the wood trees).
7. Over-plant (sacrificial) smaller nitrogen fixing bushes in the spaces between.
Maintenance after a few months: chop and drop the cover crop as necessary, to stop it invading the small
trees; prune the small nitrogen fixers etc. as mulch for and to make space for important trees. At 18
months it should be established and require much less maintenance. Do a major prune after the heat of
summer, at the beginning of the autumn rains. Take the leaves as a cue.
For swales, support trees can be heavier on the uphill side and inter-planted on the swale mound and
downhill.

Animals
This property will be an animal refuge. If any animals are eaten, or their body parts used as a product, they
should have died naturally or from an accident. Animals should be allowed to range freely as much as
sustainably practical.
At the moment, the only (domesticated) animals identified that could be brought in and encouraged on
the property are: worms, bees, fish, chickens and dogs. Worms will help compost organic matter, fertilise
and aerate the soil. Bees will help in pollination and produce honey. If suitable dams can be built to raise
fish, local and endangered varieties of fish will be bred and then released into the greater environment.
The fish will help fertilise water and control mosquitoes. Chickens will be very helpful in various gardening
processes, such as: pulling out weeds, eating weeds, their seeds and pests and fertilising. They will not be
needed for heating. Dogs will be very helpful in controlling rabbits. The company of all will be enjoyed also.
For best placement of these three elements: structures, plants and animals, we do a zone (0-5) and sector
analysis.
Zones - General Uses
Zones are identified by the frequency of use. Things that need more frequent visits should be placed in
closer zones, e.g. Zone 1 has things that require daily visits, but Zone 4 may only need a visit twice a year.
Zone 0 is for the main building.

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Zone 1 has herbs, vegetables and most of the other built structures.
Zone 2 has the broad main crop: grain, root/carbohydrate crop for mass storage; intensive food forest;
coppice fuel woodlot.
Zone 3 has the special orchard: grafted and pruned, fruit and nut.
Zone 4 has unselected/wild fruit and nut trees (browsed on range), timber trees, along with wildlife.
Zone 5 has natural wilderness for wood collection, wildlife and can be used for contemplation.
Zones - Details
Zone 0 – the main building/s
Things to consider when designing buildings:
- materials: embodied energy of the materials (how much energy is used or pollution created in
production? those with high levels should be avoided), insulation and thermal mass
- windows: type and placement
- rain-water collection
- sun angles
- heating/cooling and ventilation
- temperate building plan
Materials
The building’s walls should be made from straw bales (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straw_bale_house) or cob
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cob_%28material%29) or superadobe (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Superadobe).
They should be thick walls. Straw bales give high insulation R40-60 and should be rendered with earth and
plastered with lime (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lime_plaster). The floor and internal walls should be hard
(stone or earth) and thick, to act as thermal masses. The roof should be a natural material, tile, slate or
wood etc. Chemically treated metal should be avoided, as rust shows that metal slowly erodes in water –
there is no absolute alkalinity.
Windows
Double glazing of windows will be the best. Windows should have shutters and heavy curtains. More and
larger windows should be on the sun-side of the building. Smaller and less windows should be on the
shade-side of the building. Ventilation needs to be designed in; see the heating and cooling sections later.
Rain-water collection
Roofs should have gutters to catch rain, which should be diverted to rain-water tanks. The gutters may be
in a more native style than in the pictures below.

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Sun angles
Roof eaves (the overhang, or the parts of the roof that pass beyond the walls) should be wide enough so
the mid-summer mid-day sun does not hit the walls of the building, but the roof eaves should allow mid-
winter mid-day sun to shine fully through windows and hit the hard floor (and, or hard central wall) as
much as possible, to heat it during the day. Please see the picture below from page 37 of the Introduction
to Permaculture. At night time in winter, the heat will come out from the floor (and, or hard central wall)
inside the building. The mid-summer mid-day sun angle is 79° and the mid-winter mid-day sun angle is 32°.

The long side of a building which we would use more, e.g. with outdoor areas, should point north, to get
the winter sun. This should help keep it warm through the colder winter nights. We can make overhead
trellises with grapes for shade in summer. The grapes lose their leaves in winter to let in the warming sun.
(Please see the pictures of the winter and summer sun arcs at the end of the section on sectors.)
The land we have has east- and slightly north-facing slopes. They will not get much afternoon sun. We
should not plant high evergreen trees too close to the north side of building because they will block winter
sun, or any high trees too close to the east side of the building because they will block the view.
Stepped roofing
We should use this technique applying the angle of the sun and size of eaves to allow winter light into back
rooms. Mirrors could also be put on the back (south) wall to reflect the light.

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Heating and ventilation
Heating a building and hot water is 85% of energy use. For as little as 3% extra cost, a building can be made
energy efficient and save that 85%. Then the building should pay for itself over a short time. Look downhill
for hot air rising and uphill for cold air falling.
To heat the building we should:
- insulate the roof (straw bales are the insulation in the main outer walls)
- use solar heating (partly covered above), also a glasshouse on the sun-side (see below)
- make compost (which generates heat) against a wall
- use composting to heat water
- use radiant heat (see below)
- use reflected heat (see below)
Glasshouse on the sun-side
The land is at 71° latitude. So it’s good to have at least 70% of the sun-side wall covered by glasshouse. We
can have more, but then we should have plenty of high ventilation from the glasshouse to outside, that we
can open in summer and there should be plenty of summer shading with deciduous plants. The glasshouse
can be used to start summer vegetables early.
In the wall of the building we should have high vents in the wall to let hot air into the building from the
glasshouse during winter. Vents can be opened and closed depending on the season.

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Details of the solar chimney (a black metal pipe beyond the roof heated by the sun) and its curtain:

All grey water should be diverted to the Zone 1 garden. See the picture on the next page from page 382 of
the Permaculture A Designers’ Manual. Hot water from the bathroom and the mudroom should have an
optional diversion valve for winter, which should go under the hall floor to a container (in the floor?) of the
glasshouse. Then it can connect with the grey water to the garden. This heat then becomes part of the
heat that will recycle into the house through the venting system in winter. The water from the kitchen
should go to a grease trap before being directed to the garden.

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Radiant heat
1. we should use wood fuel, using a thermal mass heater (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masonry_heater);
the fire exhaust is guided in an “s” (or zigzag) shape many times through the brick or rock central
wall with an exhaust valve near the chimney to open or close; sticks are used for fuel; they burn at
a very high temperature (800-1000°C) quickly (15-30min) to produce about 12 hours of heat; they
are grown from special trees such as willows and repeatedly harvested every year; it’s called
coppicing (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coppicing) – the trees don’t die – grape prunings can also be
used. The fire may be part of a stove for cooking in the kitchen; we could also distil acetone, turpine
and wood oil out along the chimney in bottles for further use, so the smoke is very clean. The point
of distillation for each substance depends on the wood.
2. We should have a solid floor on the sun-side (the floor of the glasshouse) which absorbs and
radiates heat. If possible we should connect it to the solid floor of the building, so it can conduct
heat into the building also.
Cooling and ventilation
1. deciduous (fruit) vines can be grown over the building
2. a greenhouse should be on the shade-side for cool air in summer and as a nursery for summer. It
should have low vents to let in cool air from outside during summer. There should be a mister
system, to spray the water finely. In the wall of the building we should have low vents to let cool air
into the building from the greenhouse in summer. The floor of the greenhouse should be made
from gravel that can be kept wet, but it should be sealed off from the building. Our shade-side is
slightly uphill. So we will have to dig down a little so the gravel section will be below the level of the
floor of the building. Vents can be opened and closed depending on the season. The greenhouse
can be used to start winter vegetables early.
Building plan – general idea
This design is for a multipurpose hall, but if it were for a residence then the office and hall section would
be replaced with: kitchen, living, dining, lounge and the bedrooms would be on the southern side, instead
of the kitchen.
The slope in the area of Zone 0, where the building should be built, is: 11% going west to east (10m drop
over 50m distance) and 2% going north to south (2m drop over 50m distance).

Page 18 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

There would be a door from outside and the greenhouse to the mud room, then to the office. There would
be a door from the greenhouse to the bathroom/s and kitchen, then to the hall. There would be a door
from the office to the shaded patio and from the hall to the glasshouse. There would be a door from
outside to the greenhouse and another from outside to the glasshouse. There would not be a door from
the office to the hall. So each room would have two doors except the mud room which would have three.
The kitchen should have a natural refrigerator (cooling cupboard) on the southern wall. There should be a
vent from underground, which opens at the base of the cupboard. The vent should come from the gravel
floor in the greenhouse. Another solar chimney (black metal pipe) should go in the roof at the top of the
cooling cupboard in the kitchen. It would be higher so it can get afternoon sun.
We need to have an overflow for water under the gravel in the greenhouse, so it does not block the vent to
the kitchen natural refrigerator. The cupboard should have draws thorough which air can flow and a good
door with a seal and, or a curtain, to keep the cool in and the heat of the kitchen out. Fruit and vegetables
(and eggs and dairy) could be stored there for cooking.
The compost toilet/s would be near the road for easy access for those with disabilities. The bio-gas tank
would be downhill from it, for easy transport of the toilet compost to it.
We could have more storage area for winter food (and firewood) along the east side, under the floor. It
would not matter if this area was damp/wet in winter, but being downhill, it would keep quite dry. Cold
winter air from outside would not get in, except when we rarely went in to bring things out.
A rain-water tank, which should be shaded in summer, should be placed on the west side near the patio or
office. It should be used for drinking water during summer and overflow to Zone 1. The size is determined
by multiplying the number of people with the daily consumption and the longest dry period in days. Since
the hall size is 4mx8m=32m2, we estimate that it can sleep 16 people. This means: 16 x 3 x 150 = 7,200
litres. There should be an automatically resetting “first flush” system installed from the roof gutters.

Page 19 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 (Page 57, Introduction to Permaculture)
Reflected heat
On the north side of the main building a pond should be built. This will reflect winter light into the building
to help keep it warm and make a more pleasant/interesting visual effect inside and outside the building. It
will absorb heat during the day and release it during the night and thus make a warmer micro-climate in
that area. Shiny leafed trees should be planted on the south side of the building to reflect winter sun onto
it.
Position of the building on the land
Positioning the building in the mid slopes gives the benefit of: having a view, using the higher slope for
gravity-fed water and woodlands and the lower slopes for productive growing and avoiding the cold air.
Wind or falling cold air should be directed around, or over the building with dark evergreen trees. See the
pictures below from page 38 of Introduction to Permaculture. They will also continue the cold air
deflection created by the dark evergreen trees around the chicken coop uphill and to the north slightly, see
Zone 1 section.

Page 20 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

A slope facing the sun should receive considerably more solar radiation than a slope on the shade-side. We
look for a mid slope facing the sun (north) to receive maximum sun absorption for building and gardens
spaces. We have east facing slopes with a slight incline to the north.
Zone 1
High intensity: annual kitchen garden mostly with vegetables and herbs, very diverse, picked daily in the
growing season, planted 4-6 times a month to extend harvest, all mulched, or with cover crop. 50-100m2 is
needed per person. Water and nutrient is directed to Zone 1, e.g. via the chicken coop above the swale and
the pipe under the road.
Dark evergreen trees should be planted uphill on the western side of the chicken coop to divert cold air
around it and the house and to shade them both from hot afternoon summer sun. The native trees that
are in that area can be used. They are call Boldo. The leaves can be used to make a calming tea.
At the moment only half and acre is planned to cater for about 20 people, but this could be extended north
up to about 1.5 acres (0.5 ha) as the number or residents increase. Bee hives should be on the chicken
coop, so they have easy access to all zones, are high enough so people don’t get in the flight-path, but are
relatively easy to access for honey harvest.
The slope in the area of Zone 1 is the same as Zone 0: 11% going west to east (10m drop over 50m distance)
and 2% going north to south (2m drop over 50m distance).
Contents: 50% hardware->water run-off: buildings, roads, fencing, (the mudroom comprises:) the tool shed,
workshop, seed store (very secure from rodents) and feed store (for animals), a clothes line (is in the
glasshouse), nursery is in the shade-house (attached to main building) and glasshouse (attached to main
building); high value/difficult to grow plants: dwarf fruit trees only, multi-graft, mother plants, trellis,
deciduous vines and trees; quiet animals: worms, bees; (bio-gas tank). Chickens are on the edge of Zone 1
as they are a bit noisier. At the start kitchen scraps would be given to the chickens. Later, as the system
gets established the worm farm would be established. The castings and water from a worm farm is more
suitable for annual crop. A pond is suggested to reflect winter light, for aesthetics and creature habitat.
Zone 2 is a lot simpler.
There is not much formal mulch, but chop and drop with ground covers. Chickens won't range in Zone 1 or
in Zone 2 gardens, except for clean-up preparation for the next season crop. Forage should be cut from
these zones and taken to animals. Chickens should range in the food forest/s once established.
The W-E slope in this zone is 7%. The N-S slope in this zone is 0%.
Page 21 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)
Contents: main bulk carbohydrate crop, storage crops: corn, maize, potatoes, pumpkins, melons, okra,
turnips, sweet potato, radish. This area has the most diverse and higher maintenance food forest (forest
garden), with rare species or those with special needs; woodlot for coppiced firewood used in mass heater.
Zone 3 is simpler still.
There is only very rough mulch, with broad, less diverse food forest with really hardy trees that need little
attention, which have proven themselves in Zone 2. These are crop for: storing e.g. nuts, processing e.g.
preserving, drying and/or pannage: animals graze dropped fruit (autumn in cool climates); farm forestry.
The W-E slope here is 8.5%. The N-S slope is 0%.
Contents: 12 pine trees, one for each month: young pine needles high in vitamin C, good for making tea, a
sticky yellow edible mushroom grows under pines, nuts for protein, heat the cones and nuts fall out, burn
the cones in mass oven - heating and cooking all year round; 6 olives, 6 chestnuts, 3 walnuts and a few
other choice plants, such as oaks.
At the lowest part of Zone 3, by the border chinampas would be introduced when there is enough
hydration. This feature is really more like a Zone 1 or 2 feature.
Please also see the picture on the next page from page 497 of the Permaculture A Designers’ Manual.

Page 22 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

Page 23 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)
Zone 4 is simpler still.
Contents: farm forestry: timber for: poles, bee forage, animal forage or a mixture. Some may have nuts and
fruit – the hardy ones from Zone 3.
The W-E slope here is 17%. The N-S slope is nearly 2%.
This is the zone with the most erosion. There is a band of erosion going across the property from the NW
to SE and a small section west or uphill of Zone 1. Due to the steepness, closer swales or the net and pan
technique (see the picture below from page 393 of the Permaculture A Design’s Manual) should be used as
appropriate. This should be continued on to the lower half of the property, when it is to be developed.
A clumping bamboo batch, or the native Chile Coligue (Colihue) cane should be planted below spring #2 for
garden stakes and trellises etc.

Zone 5 is wild lands.

This zone is only visited to harvest timber, or contemplate.
There are two large areas for Zone 5: at the top of the property and at the bottom of the property. For
both, the N-S slope is 1% and the W-E slope is 8%. Small Zone 5 areas should be around the springs, where
native plants should be encouraged.
Simple meditation huts should be built somewhere in Zone 5, possibly made from earth bag adobe. The
construction and locations should be in consultation with the donors of such huts, who may be non-
residents, but who may use them at times also.
In this zone at the top of the property, fire resistant trees should be planted along the swales and as a wind
tunnel to the wind turbine, or windmill, which would pump water from downhill (if not done by a solar
pump) – later to be assisted by a ram pump once the property is hydrated. Fire resistant smaller plants
should be planted between the two rows of trees which make a v-shape.
A wetland is planned at the bottom of the property, once the property is hydrated enough. Water loving
species (see appendix) should be planted there and in the ring pond at the top of the property. The pond
can be sealed naturally by gleying, or by bringing in bentonite (a fine clay powder) to mix in the soil. You
Page 24 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)
will need 1-10kg bentonite for each square metre of soil. Of course plastic could also be used if really
necessary.

Gleying is using organic material to create a waterproof seal in the soil. It can be done by 15-25cm of
rotting organic matter under water or by penning animals in the area and feeding them there. They tread
in excess feed and their manure and create a seal. It takes some time and the dam walls must be sloped so
they can walk up them to get out. You add water and if it seals feed them on the next level up.
Water from the chinampa system slightly uphill in Zone 3 would feed to the wetland in Zone 5 at the
lowest part of the property, the NE corner.
Wetland and Water Garden/Ring Pond Plants
Oxygenators are fast-growing submerged plants that help to clean and oxygenate the water, e.g.
Myriophyllum spicatum (Water Milfoil), Myriophyllum verticillatum (Myriad Leaf) and Elodea canadensis
(Canadian Pondweed). These are essential if fish are added to the pond.
Shallow Emergents are shallow marginals. They grow in shallow water usually about 8-15cm. Shallow
marginals provide cover for wildlife and are a key ornamental element to a water garden design.
Deep Emergents live in a water depth of 15-30cm, e.g. Nelumbo lutea (American Water Lotus), Nelumbo
nucifera (Sacred Water Lotus) and Typha latifolia (Reedmace). Deep-water plants grown in water depth
usually 30-90cm, e.g. Nymphaea alba (White Water Lily), Aponogeton distachyos (Water Hawthorn) and
Water lilies (Nymphaea). They form the largest group of plants that root in deep water. Leaves and flowers
must be above the water. Some water lilies for example, Nymphaea alba, can thrive in water up to 3m.
Plants may need to be grown in pots or divided regularly to reduce root growth and plant vigour.
Page 25 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)
Surface Floaters e.g. Trapa natans (Water Chestnut) and Azolla filiculoides (Azolla) have a similar function
to deep-water plants. Oxygenators need light. So it is important that surface floaters do not cover too
much of the water surface. Some floaters are vigorous and will need to be controlled/harvested (which can
be a good thing as many floaters have useful properties, such as mulch or fertiliser).
Bog Plants thrive in water-logged soil withstanding occasional flooding, e.g. Lysichiton americanus (Yellow
Skunk Cabbage) and Caltha leptosepala (Western Marsh Marigold).
Moisture-loving Plants like soils that have extra moisture, but are not waterlogged. They can include
herbaceous perennials, e.g. Astilbes (Astilbe chinensis) and Hostas (Hosta longissima).

Sector analysis
Sectors are areas where the site is influenced from the outside. They include: sun, wind, fire, views, frost,
flood, smells and noise sectors.
Sun Sector
There are various web-sites that identify sun arcs and angles for any site at any day of the year. The
important ones are: mid-day mid-summer (23 Dec) and mid-day mid-winter (23 June) to design eaves of
buildings etc. (Sep 23 and March 23 are the equinoxes.) The north aspect should be kept open as much as
possible for winter light. Please see the next page for pictures of the important seasonal solar arcs.
Wind and Fire Sector
Fire and strong wind sector is in the west, to the top of the hill. The property is shielded by the hill on the
west side from hot afternoon sun and winds.
View Sector
The east aspect should be kept open as much as possible for views of the valley and the Andes in the
distance.
Other Sectors
No frost, flood, smells and noise sectors have been identified for this site.

Page 26 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Mid-Winter Mid-Day Sun Arc

Mid-Summer Mid-Day Sun Arc

(Appendices start on the next page.)

Page 27 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Appendices

Additional ideas/amendments for the design:

It looks like the original plan, of one major building, is not feasible:
- A wooden store room is being built first, which may double as accommodation.

- A wooden “mediagua” is planned to be bought as other accommodation.

- The meditation hall may be built with adobe on the site of the old house with bathrooms on the
south side and grey water run to the fruit trees in the area.

- The kitchen and office may be built with adobe, on the north side of the Cherry Grove, on a flat
area just uphill from (west of) the vegetable garden. The grey water could run to the vegetable
garden.

It is suggested that a woodlot should be between the two adobe buildings mentioned above, which would
be between the vegetable garden and the Cherry Grove, for easy access by both buildings which will both
need the wood for heating. That location is also near the four Alamos trees, which could be coppiced to
supply fire wood.
Since the neighbour, Jaime, said he does not use much water and since he does not maintain the pipe well
– we saw at least one leak, it may be considered to block the flow of water through the pipe and let him
know we need it all. Then water may be used for the following suggestion.

Page 28 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

It is suggested that compressed air could be made to be used for refrigeration. A metal pipe could be led
down from the spring (or the top of the hill, once the tank and solar pump are installed, if more pressure
was needed) to near the kitchen at the location mentioned above. The pipe would have a trompe on the
top and would lead to a sealed stainless steel drum, where the air and water would separate. The
separated compressed air could be lead to an insulated room to make a refrigerator, without motorized
parts, gas, or electricity. The water coming from the sealed stainless steel drum, would be highly
oxygenated and more suitable for drinking. It may not need filtering.

Continued…

Page 29 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Recommended Special Tools and Equipment
Ergonomic tools have their handles angled, so they prevent back pain.

ergonomic pitchfork

ergonomic spade (for digging)

A-frame to mark contour (easy to make)

ergonomic shovel (for moving material)

compost thermometer design tools

broadfork to loosen compacted soil 100% cotton raincoat for winter post-hole digger

Page 30 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Recommended Reference Books

Introduction to Permaculture - in Spanish.

Mediterranean Food Plants

Herbs (under-story)
Agastache; Anise; Basil; Bay; Bee Balm; Borage; Caraway; Catnip; Chamomile; Chives; Coriander/Cilantro;
Cumin; Dill; Dittany of Crete; Fennel; White Horehound; Lavender; Lemon Balm; Marjoram; Olive; Oregano;
Oyster Plant/Salsify; Parsley; Purslane; Rosemary; Common Rue; Saffron; Sage; Salad Burnet; Santolina;
Winter Savoury; Sumac; Tarragon; Thyme; Yarrow
Berry bushes (mostly under-story)
Myrtle; Strawberry; Blackberry; Black/Red Currants; Blueberry; Checkerberry; Cranberry; Loganberry;
Raspberry; Red Berry
Fruit Trees (mostly under-story)
All the stone fruits such as: Plum, Cherry, Peach, Apricot and Nectarine; Avocado and Loquat
Apple; Pear; Citrus (Lime, Lemon, Orange, Mandarin); Passionfruit; Tamarillo; Sapote Species; Olive; Fig;
Persimmon; Pomegranate; Cactus Pear; Feijoa (also called Pineapple Guava); Medlar
Nut Trees (mostly over-story)
Almonds; Pecans; Walnuts; Pistachio; Araucaria araucana (commonly called the monkey puzzle tree,
monkey tail tree, Chilean pine, or pehuén); Carob, Pine nuts; Chestnuts; Cashews; Brazil nuts
Vegetables (mostly full sun)
Arugula; Asparagus; Bean Sprouts; Beets; Bok Choy; Brussels Sprouts; Poblano Chilis; Cucumbers; White
and Napa Cabbage; Celery; Collard Greens; Eggplant; Green Beans; Jicama; Leeks; Button, Shiitake and

Page 31 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

Crimini Mushrooms; Cipolini and Green Onions; Parsnips; Peas; Chipotle, Hot and Common Peppers;
Romaine Lettuce; Shallots; Spinach; Zucchini, Yellow and White Squash; Tomatillos
Seeds
Pumpkin; Sunflower; Sesame; Poppy
Understory
Coffee beans
Water Plants for Zone 5
Edibility Medicinal
Habit Latin Name Common Name Moisture
Rating Rating
Grass-leaved Sweet
Perennial Acorus gramineus Rush MWeWa 3 3
Perennial Butomus umbellatus Flowering Rush WeWa 3 0
Perennial Glyceria fluitans Floating Manna Grass WeWa 3 0
Perennial Houttuynia cordata Tsi MWeWa 4 3
Annual/Perennial Hydrilla verticillata Hydrilla Wa 0 2
Perennial Iris pseudacorus Yellow Flag MWeWa 1 2
Perennial Lycopus europaeus Gypsywort MWeWa 1 3
Perennial Lysimachia vulgaris Yellow Loosestrife MWeWa 1 2
Fern Marsilea quadrifolia Water Clover MWeWa 1 2
Metasequoia
Tree glyptostroboides Dawn Redwood DMWeWa 0 0
Great Purple Monkey
Perennial Mimulus lewisii Flower MWeWa 2 1
Perennial Myosotis scorpioides Water Forget-Me-Not MWeWa 0 1
Annual Najas flexilis Wa 2 0
Perennial Nelumbo nucifera Sacred Water Lotus Wa 4 3
Perennial Nymphaea alba White Water Lily Wa 3 2
Perennial Nymphaea odorata Fragrant Water Lily Wa 3 3
Perennial Peltandra virginica Green Arrow Arum WeWa 3 0
Perennial Phragmites australis Common Reed MWeWa 5 2
Perennial Polygonum amphibium Willow Grass WeWa 1 2
Perennial Polygonum coccineum Water Smartweed WeWa 1 0
Annual/Perennial Ranunculus aquatilis Water Crowfoot MWeWa 1 1
Perennial Ranunculus flammula Lesser Spearwort MWeWa 0 1
Swamp Lily, Lizard's
Perennial Saururus cernuus Tail WeWa 0 1
Perennial Sparganium erectum Bur Reed WeWa 2 1
Perennial Spirodela polyrrhiza Great Duckweed Wa 1 2
Perennial Trapa bicornis Ling Wa 4 1
Perennial Trapa natans Water Chestnut Wa 4 0
Perennial Triglochin maritima Sea Arrow Grass WeWa 2 0
Perennial Triglochin palustris Marsh Arrow Grass WeWa 2 0
Perennial Typha domingensis Southern Cattail WeWa 4 3
Perennial Utricularia vulgaris Bladderwort Wa 1 1
Perennial Veronica beccabunga Brooklime WeWa 1 1

Page 32 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Grains for Zone 2
Edibility Medicinal
Habit Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating
Annual Avena sterilis Sterile Oats 3 0
Love Lies
Annual Amaranthus caudatus Bleeding 4 1
Annual Avena barbata Slender Oat 2 0
Californian
Annual/Biennial Bromus carinatus Brome 1 0
Perennial Foeniculum vulgare Fennel 5 3
Perennial Medicago sativa Alfalfa 4 3
Perennial Leymus racemosus Volga Wild Rye 3 0
Perennial Festuca ovina Sheep's Fescue 1 0
Perennial Hordeum jubatum Foxtail Barley 1 1
Perennial Artemisia ludoviciana White Sage 2 2
Perennial
Perennial Lolium perenne Ryegrass 1 1
Sarcobatus
Shrub vermiculatus Greasewood 2 1
Shrub Castanea pumila Chinquapin 4 1
Shrub Castanea x neglecta Chinknut 3 0

Some Fire Retardant Plants for Zone 5

Edibility Medicinal
Habit Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating
Carpobrotus
Perennial aequilaterus Sea Fig 2 0
Sweet Hottentot
Perennial Carpobrotus deliciosus Fig 2 0
Perennial Carpobrotus edulis Hottentot Fig 2 0
Shrub Atriplex canescens Grey Sage Brush 4 1
Hairy Yerba
Shrub Eriodictyon trichocalyx Santa 1 1

Trees for Wood for Zone 4

Edibility Medicinal
Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating
Pyrus pashia Indian Wild Pear 3 1
Castanea pumila Chinquapin 4 1
Castanea sativa Sweet Chestnut 5 2
Rhus copallina Dwarf Sumach 4 2
Sophora Japanese Pagoda
japonica Tree 2 3
Cytisus scoparius Broom 1 3

Page 33 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Tinder/Kindling/Coppice for Zone 2
Common Edibility Medicinal
Habit Latin Name
Name Rating Rating
Biennial Cirsium eriophorum Wooly Thistle 2 0
Climber Clematis ligusticifolia White Clematis 0 2
Perennial Anemone vitifolia 0 2
Perennial Clematis douglasii Hairy Clematis 0 1
Perennial Tussilago farfara Coltsfoot 3 3
Shrubby
Shrub Potentilla fruticosa Cinquefoil 1 1
Shrub Sambucus caerulea Blue Elder 4 2
Chamaecyparis
Tree nootkatensis Nootka Cypress 0 1
Juniperus Western
Tree occidentalis Juniper 3 2
Juniperus
Tree osteosperma Desert Juniper 2 2
Western Red
Tree Thuja plicata Cedar 1 2

Plants for Making Soap for Zones 1-4 as appropriate

Edibility Medicinal
Habit Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating
Polygonum Curlytop
Annual lapathifolium Knotweed 1 1
Perennial Triglochin maritima Sea Arrow Grass 2 0
Shrub Aesculus parviflora 2 1
Shrub Aesculus pavia Red Buckeye 2 1
Chinese Horse
Tree Aesculus chinensis Chestnut 3 1
Tree Aesculus flava Sweet Buckeye 4 0
Tree Aesculus glabra Ohio Buckeye 2 1
Japanese Horse
Tree Aesculus turbinata Chestnut 2 0
Tree Gleditsia caspica Caspian Locust 1 0
Tree Gleditsia japonica 3 1
Tree Gleditsia sinensis 3 3

Clumping Bamboo for below Spring #2 in Zone 4

Edibility Medicinal
Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating
Fargesia nitida Fountain Bamboo 0 0
Thamnocalamus aristatus 2 0
Thamnocalamus spathaceus Umbrella Bamboo 0 0
Thamnocalamus spathiflorus 2 0

Page 34 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Plants for Stabilising the Soil in Eroded Areas
Edibility Medicinal
Habit Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating
Annual Chamaecrista fasciculata Golden Cassia 0 0
Perennial Ammophila arenaria Marram Grass 1 0
Perennial Ammophila breviligulata Beach Grass 0 0
Ceratostigma
Perennial plumbaginoides 0 0
Perennial Dactylis glomerata Cock's Foot 0 1
Perennial Elymus glauca Blue Wild Rye 2 0
Perennial Elytrigia juncea Sand Couch 0 0
Perennial Eryngium maritimum Sea Holly 3 3
Perennial Hierochloe odorata Holy Grass 2 2
Perennial Leymus racemosus Volga Wild Rye 3 0
Perennial Phragmites australis Common Reed 5 2
Perennial Sanguisorba minor Salad Burnet 4 2
Perennial Tussilago farfara Coltsfoot 3 3
Perennial Typha domingensis Southern Cattail 4 3
Shrub Baccharis halimifolia Bush Groundsel 0 1
Shrub Colutea arborescens Bladder Senna 0 2
Shrub Cotoneaster microphyllus 2 1
Shrub Cytisus scoparius Broom 1 3
Shrub Lespedeza bicolor Lespedeza 3 0
Shrub Rhus copallina Dwarf Sumach 4 2
Shrub Robinia fertilis Bristly Locust 0 0
Shrub Rosa multiflora Japanese Rose 2 2
Shrub Salix acutifolia Sharp-Leaf Willow 1 2
Shrub Salix repens Creeping Willow 1 2
Shrub Spiraea salicifolia Bridewort 1 1
Shrub Staphylea trifolia American Bladder Nut 3 1
Shrub Tamarix gallica Manna Plant 1 2
Metasequoia
Tree glyptostroboides Dawn Redwood 0 0
Tree Robinia luxurians 1 0
Tree Robinia neomexicana New Mexico Locust 1 1
Tree Salix amygdaloides Peach Leaved Willow 0 2
Tree Salix babylonica Weeping Willow 1 3
Tree Salix daphnoides Violet Willow 1 2
Purple Osier. Purple Osier
Tree Salix purpurea Willow 1 3
Tree Salix purpurea lambertiana Purple Osier 1 3

Page 35 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Nitrogen Fixing Plants for Zones 1-4 as appropriate
Edibility Medicinal Growth
Habit Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating Rate
Ground Cover, Annual Cicer arietinum Chick Pea 4 1
Ground Cover, Annual Lens culinaris Lentil 4 1
Ground Cover, Annual Medicago polymorpha Toothed Bur-Clover 2 0
Ground Cover, Annual Pisum sativum Garden Pea 4 2
Ground Cover, Annual Pisum sativum arvense Field Pea 3 2
Ground Cover, Annual Pisum sativum elatius Wild Pea 4 2
Pisum sativum
Ground Cover, Annual macrocarpon Sugar Pea 4 2
Ground Cover, Annual Trifolium dubium Suckling Clover 0 1
Ground Cover, Annual Trifolium incarnatum Crimson Clover 2 0
Ground Cover, Annual Vicia faba equina Horsebean 3 0
Ground Cover, Annual Vicia faba major Broad Bean 4 1
Ground Cover, Annual Vicia faba minuta Tick Bean 3 0
Ground Cover, Annual Vicia faba equina Horsebean 3 0 F
Ground Cover, Annual Vicia faba major Broad Bean 4 1 F
Ground Cover, Annual Vicia faba minuta Tick Bean 3 0 F
Ground Cover, Annual
Climber Vicia sativa leucosperma Winter Tares 3 0 F
Ground Cover, Annual
Climber Vicia sativa Winter Tares 3 0 F
Ground Cover,
Annual/Biennial Melilotus albus White Melilot 2 2 F
Parthenocissus
Ground Cover, Climber quinquefolia Virginia Creeper 2 2 F
Ground Cover, Climber Campsis grandiflora Trumpet Creeper 0 2 F
Ground Cover, Climber Akebia quinata Akebia 4 2 F

Page 36 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Edibility Medicinal Growth
Habit Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating Rate
Ground Cover, Climber Vitis coignetiae Crimson Glory Vine 2 0 F
Parthenocissus
Ground Cover, Climber tricuspidata Boston Ivy 1 0 F
Ground Cover, Climber Hydrangea anomala 3 1 F
Ground Cover, Perennial Leymus arenarius Lyme Grass 2 0 F
Ground Cover, Perennial Duchesnea indica Mock Strawberry 2 2 F
Ground Cover, Perennial Lamium galeobdolon Yellow Archangel 2 1 F
Campanula
Ground Cover, Perennial portenschlagiana Adria Bellflower 3 0 F
Ground Cover, Perennial Geranium macrorrhizum Bigroot Geranium 0 1 F
Ground Cover, Perennial Campanula poscharskyana Trailing Bellflower 4 0 F
Ground Cover, Perennial Anthyllis vulneraria Kidney Vetch 1 2
Ground Cover, Perennial Azolla filiculoides Azolla 0 0
Ground Cover, Perennial Desmanthus illinoensis Prairie Mimosa 4 1
Ground Cover, Perennial Lathyrus tuberosus Earthnut Pea 5 0
Ground Cover, Perennial Trifolium pratense Red Clover 3 3
Ground Cover, Perennial Trifolium repens White Clover 3 2
Ground Cover, Perennial
Climber Pueraria montana lobata Kudzu Vine 4 5 F
Ground Cover, Perennial
Climber Amphicarpaea bracteata Hog Peanut 5 1
Ground Cover, Perennial
Climber Lathyrus latifolius Perennial Sweet Pea 1 0
Ground Cover, Perennial
Climber Pueraria montana lobata Kudzu Vine 4 5
Shrub Caragana arborescens Siberian Pea Tree 5 1
Shrub Cercis occidentalis Western Redbud 3 0

Page 37 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Edibility Medicinal Growth
Habit Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating Rate
Shrub Cytisus scoparius Broom 1 3
Shrub Elaeagnus angustifolia Oleaster 4 2
Shrub Elaeagnus commutata Silverberry 3 2
Shrub Elaeagnus cordifolia 5 2
Shrub Elaeagnus formosana 2 2
Shrub Elaeagnus fragrans 2 2
Shrub Elaeagnus glabra 4 2
Shrub Elaeagnus gonyanthes 2 2
Shrub Elaeagnus latifolia Bastard Oleaster 3 2
Shrub Elaeagnus macrophylla 5 2
Shrub Elaeagnus maritima 2 2
Shrub Elaeagnus montana 2 2
Shrub Elaeagnus multiflora Goumi 5 2
Shrub Elaeagnus oldhamii 2 2
Shrub Elaeagnus orientalis Trebizond Date 4 2
Shrub Elaeagnus parvifolia 4 2
Shrub Elaeagnus pungens Elaeagnus 5 2
Shrub Elaeagnus pyriformis 2 2
Shrub Elaeagnus thunbergii 2 2
Shrub Elaeagnus umbellata Autumn Olive 4 2
Shrub Elaeagnus x ebbingei Elaeagnus 5 2
Shrub Elaeagnus x reflexa 3 2
Shrub Genista tinctoria Dyer's Greenweed 1 2
Shrub Hippophae rhamnoides Sea Buckthorn 5 5
Shrub Indigofera decora 2 1
Shrub Indigofera heterantha Indigo Bush 1 0
Shrub Indigofera kirilowii 0 1

Page 38 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)

 Edibility Medicinal Growth
Habit Latin Name Common Name
Rating Rating Rate
Shrub Indigofera pseudotinctoria 1 0
Shrub Lespedeza bicolor Lespedeza 3 0
Shrub Lespedeza buergeri 1 0
Shrub Lespedeza capitata Roundhead Lespedeza 1 2
Shrub Lespedeza cyrtobotrya 1 0
Shrub Lespedeza formosa 0 0
Shrub Lespedeza juncea Chinese Lespedeza 1 1
Shrub Lespedeza maximowiczii 0 0
Shrub Shepherdia argentea Buffalo Berry 3 1
Shrub Shepherdia canadensis Buffalo Berry 3 2
Shrub Ulex europaeus Gorse 1 1
Shrub Ulex parviflorus 0 0
Shrub, Annual/Biennial Melilotus albus White Melilot 2 2
Shrub, Annual/Biennial Melilotus officinalis Melilot 2 3
Shrub, Annual/Perennial Medicago lupulina Black Medick 2 1
Tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosa 2 2
Tree Cercis chinensis Chinese Redbud 1 2

References
Bill Mollison: Permaculture A Designers’ Manual; Introduction to Permaculture
Geoff Lawton: 2013 PDC Online Lectures
Other: http://sollumis.com; http://pfaf.org, http://easycalculation.com/trigonometry/triangle-angles.php; http://www.google.com/earth/index.html:
http://lapostlle.com

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Page 39 of 39 of the Design by Norman Joseph Smith (AKA Dhamma-dasa Bhikkhu)