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KASHIDAKARI
Kashmiri embroidery or
STITCHES USED
This embroidery uses various styles of stitches like
darning stitch,
chain stitch and the buttonhole stitch.
pre-shrinked by the manufacturers. The intrinsic worth of each piece lies in the size of the stitches and the yarn used.
of coin sized concentric circles which impact dynamism and a sense of movement to a design.
Chain stitch done on white background, but here the motifs, mainly stylish flowers, do not cover the entire surface, and the background is not embroidered upon.
Inspiration
Embroiders often draw inspiration from the beautiful nature around.
The main patterns in this region are chinar leaves, . cypress cones, the lotus and almonds.
MOTIFS
The colors the motifs of flowers, creepers and chinar
Fabrics used
The commonly used fabrics are wool, tussah,
pashmeena (wool derived from the Pashmeena goat), ruffle silk and cotton textiles.
An array of colors, which range from the darker shades
products
Kashmir is known internationally for its style of
embroidery which is found on garments like the phiran, tapestry, curtains, shawls and household linen.
Kashida in a plethora of mesmerising designs on
chignons , crepes , silk and georgettes for suits , sarees , dupattas and kurtis for the woman of today .And an exotic collection of kurtas and sherwanis for the men.
is always held under the fabric to be embroidered and the hok is used to pull a series of loops, each emerging from within the previous, to the surface of the fabric.
two versions of this technique,the first is used to
embroider on thin fabrics such as silk and fine cotton cloth, used as stoles and shawls or made into pheran, which is a loose over-garment, kurta and capes
normally done on unbleached fabric; its stitches are bolder and it is used for embellishing yardages used as upholstery and drapery.
both cases, the patterns are usually linear abstractions
of the local flora, with the outlines worked first and the embroiderers are usually men from the Sunni Muslim Community.
Ari work
Crewel work
Crewel work
or silver zari (tilla) or silk (dori) thread, and are used to embellish pherans, saris and shawls.
The decorative wire remains only on the surface while
and additional thin cotton thread of yellow or white is stitched on top of it, thereby securing it by couching.
are two variations - moraskar (knot stitch), zalakadosi (chain stitch executed in silver or metallic thread) which are used on the borders of shawls and choga, royal gown, to create a raised or braided effect
The most commonly used motifs are the pamposh
(lotus), chinar, badam (almond) . dacch gurn (grape leaf) and duin (the flower of the chinar tree).
Tilla work
Dori work
SOZNI
Sozni is a form of extremely fine and delicate
needlework done primarily on shawls - mainly pashmina and high quality raffal.
Designs are created as close as possible against the
ground, and individual threads of the warp are taken up in the stitching and reinforced with smaller stitches.
types
Jamwara - an all over design entire surface is covered with
embroidery Jalidar- an all over design wherein the entire surface is not covered. the design simply grows like a net Khatraash-any kind of lines, diagonal or vertical, in the shawl body Dordar khurd- a broad border on the 2 ends of the shawl, with the minimum width of 3 inches. This is the broadest border to be found on the shawls. Meemdor- a slightly narrower border around 2 inches in width.
Beldar-This is a narrower border minimum width is about one centimeter. Bootidar- any shawl with bootis on the ground. Babbar-when there are checks in the weave of the cloth. Chaarbadaam-4 paisleys on the four corners of the shawl. Atthara bootis-18 motifs within the ground of the shawl.
Hashidar-even narrower-having a minimum width of about 1 inch.
the outline of the design is embroidered. Only a single strand is used and consequently, in skillfully executed sozni, the motif appears on both sides of the shawl.
REZKAR
This is a form of needle embroidery similar in technique
to sozni; the difference lies in its longer stitches and in that these are not reinforced with additional stitches.
Three or four strands of staple yarn are employed and the