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Toutonghi, Pauls.
Evel Knievel days : a novel / Pauls Toutonghi. — 1st ed.
p. cm.
1. Egyptian Americans—Fiction. I. Title.
PS3620.O92E94 2012
813'.6—dc23 2011044748
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition
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Eg ypt i a n c o o k i ng i s fo lk m a g ic . Not magic in the sense of
dematerializing doves or sawing beautiful ladies in half. But magic
in the deeper sense of the thing—in the raw joy of what magic once
was, hundreds of years ago, thousands of years ago: a surprise, a
shock, an astonishment. A lesson about the invisible. A lesson about
belief. I remember this from my childhood: the image of my mother,
Amy Clark-Saqr, cooking late into the night for a catering gig,
cooking, in a nearly empty house, enough food to feed a hundred
people the next afternoon. A feast—but not for her. Saqr Catering.
Butte’s Finest Middle Eastern Cuisine Since 1990.
Mulukhiyya: A silky saline broth distilled from the leaves of the
jute plant. It fills the air with the smell of garlic and onion and boil-
ing jute leaves and sizzling olive oil. It was her most popular dish.
She’d make it by the gallon, standing at the stove, holding the long
wooden spoon that was so familiar to me. Its wood had been worn
thin and smooth, and its entire body bore black scorch marks from
the flames of our gas stovetop. If she were mummified and entombed
per made the fortune of William Andrews Clark, it also made the
fortune of this little city in Montana.
While the inhabitants of Butte used to call it “The Richest Hill
on Earth,” they also called it “The Perch of the Dev il.” Nitroglycer-
ine, dynamite, pneumatic drilling: The thunder of explosives rolled
down from the mine shafts all day long. Arsenic and sulfur and cad-
mium poured from the mouths of the Anaconda smelters. If cows
grazed in Butte, their teeth turned a soft gold color.
At the museum where I worked, I often told tourists about the
early settlers near the Anaconda mine. There was so much arsenic
in the drinking water that Butte’s residents grew dependent on it.
Without the arsenic, they’d get headaches and nausea and splinter-
ing stomach cramps. Copper made them rich, but it also poisoned
them.
That’s where my story starts. With an invisible genetic heritage,
with a mutation of the ATP7B gene, with an autosomal recessive gene-
tic disorder called Wilson’s disease. Both of my maternal grandparents
were carriers. And so my mother’s body could never properly absorb
copper. Without medication, copper would build up in her soft tis-
sues, in her liver and her kidneys and her eyes and her brain. She
took an army of pastel pharmaceuticals daily; she swallowed a rain-
bow of cuprimine and cyprine and zinc acetate. Children raised in
evangelical households can quote Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John.
I know whole sections of The Merck Manual by heart.
There were some other aspects of my childhood that were per-
haps unusual. Occasionally, my mother would forget a pill and spend
a day in bed. Or I’d come home and find her sitting on the roof.
“What,” I’d yell, “are you doing up there?” She’d answer: “Nothing,
darling,” her voice as soft and gentle as the coo of a dove. Or: “I’m
counting the stars.” Or: “I think I can see Idaho from here.”
I’d race inside to sort through the medication and determine
what she was missing. Then I’d shimmy out onto the roof, carry ing
a glass of water and a tiny green tablet. Two hours later, she’d be
downstairs, cooking or reading a book in front of the fireplace.
The list of foods my mother couldn’t eat was a long one: shell-
fish, mushrooms, nuts, chocolate, dried fruit, dried peas, dried beans,
bran, avocados. But her longings, her longings were persistent. “Just
one Twix,” she’d say, staring at the candy aisle in Safeway. “Please. It
won’t kill me, I promise.” I’d push the cart forward, nine years old
and barely tall enough to reach the handle, my mother trailing be-
hind me, begging for a 3 Musketeers.
This did create some problems for a caterer (as you might imag-
ine). Not only was I her custodian, I was also her chief taster— a fact
that she reinforced with a frequent and impressive ardor. She’d
knock on the doors of friends’ houses, or track me down at the park,
or appear in the second inning of my Little League baseball games.
Once, when I was in eleventh grade, she had me summoned to the
principal’s office. “We’re very sorry, son,” Principal Gordon said.
“But your great-uncle has passed away. Your mother’s outside waiting
to take you home.” Certainly she was, sitting behind the wheel of our
big white Saqr Catering van. I skulked in through the passenger’s-side
door, staring at the carpet as we made our way off of school grounds
and into traffic.
“You’re unbelievable,” I said. “No one else’s mother acts like
this.”
She looked straight ahead, her face expressionless, her hands on
with the coffee still warm in the coffeepot, after he returned to Egypt
on a one-way business-class ticket, my mother was perpetually trying
to massacre his plants.
She tried digging. She tried Roundup. She tried garden shears.
But Egyptian walking onions are true to their name: They walk,
season after season, across your garden. They travel through the
air, in seeds, and beneath the ground, in roots. They flourish. They
burrow deep. They are tenacious. She never could exterminate them
completely. After three or four years, she gave up. Nothing could be
done. The onions had won a decisive victory. Like a field general
bidding goodbye to a lost battlefield, my mother leaned against the
porch and sighed. “Even Braveheart knew when he was beat,” she
said.
“They eviscerated him in a public square,” I said.
She threw her shovel underneath the porch.
“My fault,” she said. “Bad example.”
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Now, over two years later, I’ve come to imagine this moment,
this glance at the clock, as the moment when the action of the story,
of my story, started to slip out of my grasp—when it stretched and
turned and rose out of my cupped palms like smoke, like escaping
birdsong. There’s an old Egyptian saying: A birdsong is a prediction.
I could hear the chorus of sparrows through the open window.
“What are you doing?” I asked. It was the mildest form of the
question that I could imagine. It was also the most civil. “Have you
taken your pills?” I added.
“I have a surprise for you,” she said, “in the front yard.”
It sounded ominous. She pulled me out of bed. I would help her,
of course, but I had a few small tasks I had to complete before I
could begin my day. It’s not that I had a problem; I was totally nor-
mal. It’s simply that I needed to arrange the covers of the bed at a
certain angle, with just over six inches of white folded back above
the top sheet. And then I had to touch all four walls of the room—
north, south, east, and west. And then I had to open the door twice,
only twice, and look each time into the hallway, while imagining
in my head the phrase all clear. Then— only then—I could set about
the tasks at hand. Some might call this obsessive-compulsive. I’d
call it a friendly (gentle) attention to detail. To painstaking detail.
Exact detail. Precise and perfect detail.
This was my room. It was my domain, my blessed plot, my pro-
vincial kingdom. Rows of books crowded every available shelf. I’d
organized them by color. Actually, the system was a little more
complicated than that. I’d sorted them by color within discipline,
and by alphabetical ranking within discipline. This was my tertiary
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“I’ll make us lunch,” she said, and she walked into the house. I was
left there in the yard, poised with the shovel, mud soaking my jeans.
I thought of ten different specific things I could have done. But I
didn’t. I just stood there and let the hot air continue to descend and
wrap around me. I let it settle.
See: I think that Tolstoy was wrong. Unhappy families are all
alike. They’re all alike in this moment—in this pause before some-
thing happens, in the pause before someone reacts. And that pause:
It can last seconds or minutes or days or months or years.
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