CHAPTER III
THE TULIP
“Then comes the tulip race, where Beauty plays
Her ideal freaks: from family diffus'd,
To family, as flies the father dust,
The varied colours run.’
James Tuomson,
6 Rae will thrive in any ordinary garden border
that has been manured months earlier; they
will fail in freshly manured ground, except when the
manure used is sufficiently old and so deep down that
the roots can only strike it when they have attained
their growth in length. But there is a way to build
up tulip beds safely a few weeks before planting :
this is by using from a stock of compost prepared in
spring, kept out of doors in semi-shade, and turned
twice during summer. October is the first planting
month, the work being continued throughout Novem-
ber and December. After this, retarded bulbs may
be used, which means bulbs that were put as soon as
bought (viz. September or October) into air-tight
dry receptacles and stored in an exceedingly cold place.
33 c
34 BULB GARDENING
To make a Tulip bed thus, the stack has to be built
up of equal parts of fresh loam, leaf-mould, old cow-
manure, and a half part of river-sand. Some culti-
vators prefer a whole part of sand.
The garden ground is removed, to a depth of a
foot or more, the subsoil forked well and weeded, as
weed or tree roots may be as deep as that even. Some
pebbles and broken crocks are put in first, for 3
inches of drainage, and then the compost from the
stack fills up to the level. It is best to use it fairly
coarse and ‘tussocky’ below, slightly less coarse
next, then fine, put through a sieve, for the top inch
or two. A good bed is generally raised an inch or
2 inches above the ground level, but extra compost
is put on over the bulbs, after they have been well
pressed into the bed; and it is also advisable to let
the bed be highest along the middle, sloping gently
on all sides. A bed like this has to be protected by
canvas, or matting, supported over wood or iron
hoops, during frosty or very wet weather.
Another kind of bed, or the borders where Tulips
grow in ordinarily good soil, has a mulch of coco-nut-
fibre refuse, or any other dry covering material used
by gardeners, so does not need mat protection.
The first sort of bed may be chosen for culture of
extra fine types and varieties of Tulip: the second
for all usual kinds and purposes.
Special beds can be built up, to a height of 18
inches, or rather less, on any sort of hard foundation,HARDY BULBS 35
pavement, gravel, etc., the sides held in position by
inverted turves, wood, wire-netting, tiles, or rocks,
This enables the gardener to have grand displays
in courtyards and roof gardens, on poor soil, or bal-
conies.
The ordinary or Garden Tulip, double or single,
may be cultivated out of doors, or in frames and
unheated glasshouses, or in rooms entirely, if there
is enough air (that is pure) and full light and sunshine.
Sunshine, adequate drainage, and fairly nourishing
soil are essential for Tulip culture out of doors. Plant
bulbs from October to the second week of December,
4 or 5inches deep, 6to 8 inches apart. Mulch with dry
material, such as coco-nut-fibre, heather, gorse, very
ancient manure, bracken fern, or a mixture of hop
manure and dried leaves.
If the season is droughty a watering may be given
in March. :
The surface soil should be delicately pricked over,
by a hand-fork or spud, directly it seems to be getting
caked or weedy.
Sticks and ties are needed by all the taller species
and varieties. Unless seed is to be saved, spent
blooms should be removed, broken off about midway
down the stems.
Plants must grow on until the foliage has completely
withered up, otherwise the bulbs will not bloom the
following year ; but they can be lifted from the orna-
mental positions as soon as the flowers are over, and
36 BULB GARDENING
replanted at once in sunny waste borders to finish
maturing.
In July the bulbs can be lifted, laid out in sunny
attics or sheds, but not directly in the sunshine, for
a week, to dry, then be stored in a cool place. If
they are exposed to air they become damp, and may
sprout, or rot, but if, when properly dried, they are
shut into tins or boxes, no harm can result. Offsets
should be removed, similarly dried, then planted in
sunny borders in November, where they can remain
undisturbed the three or four years or so that must
elapse before they blossom. Parrot Tulips and Dar-
win Tulips, which are long-stemmed and very beau-
tiful—the former curiously fringed, splashed, streaked,
and green-shaded among gorgeous hues, the latter of
innumerable pale or rich hues and satiny petals—
may be used for beds to flower later than ordinary
Tulips. In the last class, doubles are later than
singles, and the miniature, Van Thol Tulips, are earliest
of all.
Parrot and Darwin Tulips may be treated as her-
baceous plants, left out always in borders, and divided
every third or fourth year. So may the various
Tulip species, and all the hardy May-blooming Single
Tulips, of which bulb vendors can all offer extensive
lists.
The ordinary Tulip seldom dies from being left out
in the ground, but deteriorates rapidly.
For Tulip culture in pots use a compost of two parts