cabinetmakers workbench

Drawers
The workbench in ShopNotes No. 102 (page 24) offers a lot of storage space on the shelf underneath. To make better use of that space for storing smaller items, you can build the drawer cabinet shown in the photo above.

Add plenty of storage space with this easy-to-build, slip-in drawer cabinet.
DRAWER CASE
The drawer cabinet consists of an outer case that slips into the opening under the bench. Youre going to build the case from the inside out, starting with the drawer frames. These frames connect the
DRAWER STOP
(#/4" x #/4" - 3")

1
CENTER GUIDE
(#/4" x 1" - 25")

FIGURE

(#/4" x 3" - 35")

REAR RAIL D

(#/4" x 3" - 20!/2")

STILE D

E
5&/8 #/4 #8 x 1!/4" Fh WOODSCREW

NOTE:

DADOES AND RABBETS ARE !/4" 5&/8 DEEP AND SIZED TO FIT FRAMES

ATTACH CASE BACK WITH GLUE AFTER DRAWERS ARE FITTED AND STOPS ARE INSTALLED

(18#/8" x 25" - #/4" Ply.) (#/4" x #/4" - 18#/8")

A CASE SIDE

F GUIDE BLOCK
(!/2" x #/4" - 3!/2")

EDGING B

C FRONT RAIL
(#/4" x 3" - 35")

(18#/8" x 36" - #/4" ply.)

G CASE BACK
STOP !/4

a.
#/4

FRONT VIEW
WEB FRAME !/4

!/4

b.
!/2

TOP VIEW

c.
!/4

#8 x 1!/4" Fh WOODSCREW

#8 x 1" Fh WOODSCREW

GUIDE BLOCK

SIDE VIEW

REAR RAIL

sides and form the openings for the drawers. Figure 1 gives you a starting point for the dimensions, but you may need to make some minor adjustments so the case fits your workbench. I made my case about 18" narrower and shorter than the opening. Frames. The two side stiles and the center stile of each frame are connected with front and back rails. I used maple for all of the frame components except for the front rails. For these, I used Douglas fir to match the bench. Front & Rear Rails. To start on the frames, I cut the front and rear rails to size. The length of the rails and the 14"-deep dadoes and rabbets in the case sides will determine the final width of the assembled cabinet. As I mentioned earlier, size the rails so that the cabinet will slide easily into the workbench opening (right photo, next page). To finish up the rails, cut a centered groove along one edge for the stub tenons on the stiles. Short Stiles. The only thing special about the side and center stiles is the stub tenon on each end. A dado blade makes quick work of cutting all the tenons. At this point, you can glue up the four frames before adding the center guides.

ShopNotes No. 102

Page 1 of 3

2008 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.

Center Guides. After the glue dries, you can add the center drawer guides. Theyre centered and attached to the underside of the top three frames with screws, as shown in Figure 1. Case Sides. With the frames assembled, the case sides come next. The sides have dadoes and rabbets to accept the frames. But before cutting these, I added hardwood trim along the front edge to hide the plywood. Assembly. At this point youre ready to assemble the sides and frames. The key is to keep everything square while the glue dries. I didnt attach the back panel until later. Leaving it off makes it easier to add the drawer stops after the drawers are in place.

perfect fit. The goal is to end up with an even gap at the top and sides of the drawer front. Once all of the basic joinery is done, there are a couple of things left to do. Grooves & Notches. Cutting a groove for the plywood bottom is pretty simple. Just remember to cut the groove on the inside face of all the drawer parts. And before you can Sliding Case. assemble the drawer, The drawer case you need to cut a notch slips into the workbench in the drawer back. Size frame and is secured with screws. the notch for a smooth, sliding fit along the center drawer guide. To size them, I fastened them with Assembly. Finally, you can double-sided tape. I start out by DRAWERS assemble the drawers, making making them a little thick. This The three large drawers are iden- sure theyre square. While the way, you can sand them down tical in size and construction. The glue dries, you can cut the stiffen- later for a perfect fit of the drawer. sides are joined to the front with a ers that are glued to the bottom. A Hardware and Fitting. Addlocking rabbet joint and to the back little glue and a clamping caul are ing the drawer pulls now makes it with a tongue and dado joint. Fig- all you need to attach it. easier to fine-tune the drawers for ure 2 gives you the details. You can Guides Block. As shown in Fig- a smooth fit. I used a drilling jig to cut these joints on the table saw. It ure 1, there are small guide blocks help locate all of the holes. just takes a few test cuts to get a screwed to each side of the case. Like I said, you may need to sand or plane the guide blocks while fitting the drawers. And a little wax on the frames and drawer parts NOTE: CUT A CENTERED NOTCH SLIGHTLY LARGER goes a long way to help the large THAN CENTER GUIDE DRAWER BACK drawers slide easily. Then you can (#/4" x 5" - 32#/4") K permanently attach the blocks. Now you can add the rear drawer stops to position the drawer fronts flush with the case. Finally, its DRAWER BOTTOM (23&/8" x 32!/2" - !/4" Ply.) time to attach the case back with KNOB L glue. After that, simply slide the 5 cabinet into the bench and fasten it 2!/4 in with screws. Then all youre left with is the task of filling the drawI DRAWER FRONT ers with your tools. (#/4" x 5" - 34#/8")

J DRAWER SIDE
(#/4" x 5" - 25")

DRAWER BOTTOM !/2

a. b.
1#/16

(!/4 " x 3" - 23#/8")

STIFFENER M

3
#/8 DRAWER SIDE #/8

FIGURE

!/4 GUIDE BLOCK

DRAWER BOTTOM NOTE: DRAWER SHOWN UPSIDE DOWN

FRONT VIEW
ShopNotes No. 102

TOP VIEW
#/8 !/8

NOTE:
!/8 #/8

CENTER AND GLUE STIFFENER TO DRAWER BOTTOM

DRAWER FRONT

Page 2 of 3

2008 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.

cabinetmakers workbench

Drawers
183/ x 25 - 3/ Ply. 8 4 3 x 3 - 183 / / / 4 4 8 3 x 3 - 35 / 4 3 x 3 - 201 / / 4 2 3 x 1 - 25 / 4 1 x 3 - 31 / / / 2 4 2 3 x 36 - 3 Ply. 18 / / 8 4 3 x3 -3 / / 4 4 I J K L M Drawer Fronts (3) Drawer Sides (6) Drawer Backs (3) Drawer Bottoms (3) Stiffeners (3)

Materials & Hardware

A B C D E F G H Case Sides (2) Edging (2) Front/Rear Rails (8) Stiles (12) Center Guides (3) Guide Blocks (6) Case Back (1) Drawer Stops (3)
3 x 5 - 343 / / 4 8 3 x 5 - 25 / 4 3 x 5 - 323 / / 4 4 7 x 321 - 1/ Ply. 23 / / 4 8 2 1/ x 3 - 233 / 4 8

(6) Drawer Pulls (Lee Valley 02W18.09)

Cutting Diagram
#/4" x 6!/2" - 72" DOUGLAS FIR (3.3 Bd. Ft.) C C #/4" x 6!/2" - 72" MAPLE (3.3 Bd. Ft.) C C #/4" x 6!/2" - 96" MAPLE (2 Boards @ 4.3 Bd. Ft. each) D D D D D D M C C C C

#/4" x 6" - 72" DOUGLAS FIR (4.0 Bd. Ft.) I B #/4" x 6" - 72" DOUGLAS FIR (4.0 Bd. Ft.) I E M H F F I

#/4" x 6!/2" - 96" DOUGLAS FIR (3 Boards @ 4.3 Bd. Ft. each) K 48" x 96" - !/4" PLYWOOD J J 48" x 96" - #/4" PLYWOOD A A

G L

ShopNotes No. 102

Page 3 of 3

2008 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.